Classifications

• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
  • D05B—SEWING
  • D05B35/00—Work-feeding or -handling elements not otherwise provided for
• • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
  • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
  • D05B—SEWING
  • D05B39/00—Workpiece carriers

Definitions

• the invention relates to a method for sewing the edge zones of a sleeve blank to the edge zone of the sleeve neckline of a clothing part according to the preamble of claim 1.
• the previously known production method for sewing the sleeve blank into a garment consists in that the seamstress continuously superimposes successive sections of the edge zones of the two sewing material parts to be sewn together and feeds the stitch formation point to the sewing machine. This measure is very complex and requires special skill of the seamstress.
• the invention is based on the object, the edge zones of the two parts to be joined together design that they can be sewn by a simple seam.
• Fig. 1 is a schematic plan view of the Sewing arrangement
• FIG. 4 is a top view of the staple for receiving the sleeve blank
• FIG. 7 is a side view of the rotary drive with a cloth clip attached
• Fig. 9 is a representation corresponding to FIG. 8 with a partially completed seam.
• the sewing unit shown in a schematic plan view in FIG. 1 contains a frame (1), a sewing machine (2), a sewing material clamp (3) for a clothing part (B) and a rotary drive (4) for a sewing material clamp (5) (see FIG. 4) for receiving a sleeve cut (A).
• the sewing machine (2) is attached to a carriage (6) which is slidably mounted on two guide rods (7) arranged in the frame (1).
• the carriage (6) is displaced in a manner known per se, not shown, via a chain (8) arranged between the guide rods (7).
• Two further guide rods (9) are fastened in the frame (1), on which a slide (10) is slidably mounted transversely to the slide (6).
• the carriage (10) is displaced via a chain (11) arranged between the guide rods (9)
• the material clamp (3) (FIGS. 2 and 3) is pivotably mounted on bearings (12) on the carriage (10).
• the bracket (3) consists of a base plate (13), a cover plate (15) held by spacers (14) at a distance therefrom, two arranged in between
• the tooth piece (21) is firmly connected to the cover plate (15) by a screw (22).
• the base plate (13) of the clamp (3) carries on its underside a bearing bracket (35) which, with a piston rod (37) of a pneumatic cylinder (38) protruding through an opening (36) in the table plate (10a) of the slide (10) connected is. This is pivotally mounted on a carrier (39) attached to the slide (10).
• a spring (41) which is arranged between the slide (10) and the base plate (13) and is guided by pins (40a and 40b), holds the clamp (3) normally in its raised position.
• the rollers (19) of the chain (18) are connected at the bottom with elastic, pin-shaped clamping elements (42) which, when the clamp (3) is lowered, lie on the edge zone of the clothing blank (B) and clamp them.
• a stop angle (43) corresponding to the contour of the sleeve cutout is screwed onto the carriage (10).
• the sewing material clamp (5) serves to receive the sleeve blank (A). Its edge (45a) for receiving the area adjacent to the later seam zone of the sleeve blank (A) is in the
• Area of the inner arc of the sleeve blank (A) is designed in accordance with the circular arc shape of this inner arc.
• the material clamp (5) has a bracket (50) which serves to clamp the area of the sleeve blank (A) adjacent to the edge zone to be sewn on.
• the bracket (50) is followed by two torsion springs (51a and 51b) pressed down
• the sewing material clamp (5) is provided with a pin (52) which is arranged in the center of its circular edge (45a) and has a hexagonal profile and is therefore used to fix it on a separate work table (53).
• the work table (53) is provided with a bore (54) for receiving the pin (52), which also has a hexagonal profile.
• a stop bracket (58) is fastened on the work table (53), which has the contour of the edge zone of the sleeve blank (A) to be sewn on and against which it rests when it is placed on the material clamp (5).
• a bearing block (59) is fastened on the work table (53), on which a bracket (60) is mounted on an axis (61).
• the bracket (60) has arms (62) to which a clamping strip (63) is fastened, the shape of which is designed in the form of a circular arc corresponding to the inner part of the edge zone of the sleeve blank (A).
• the clamping strip (63) lies on the middle part of the edge zone of the sleeve blank (A).
• a fork (64) is attached to the bracket (60) and is connected to the piston rod (65) of a pneumatic cylinder (66). This is articulated on a bearing arm (67) of the bearing block (59).
• a support plate (70) (FIGS. 4 and 6) is provided on each side of the bearing block (59) on the work table (53) and supports an arrangement which serves to deform the lateral edge region of the edge zone to be sewn on.
• the carrier mat (70) is on a piston rod (71) of a pneumatic cylinder (72) attached. This is suitably arranged below the work table (53), the piston rod (71) projecting through a bore in the work table (53).
• An angle piece (74) is screwed onto the carrier plate (70), on the free leg projecting above the one end of a leaf spring (75) is attached, the other end of which is connected to the piston rod (76) of its pneumatic cylinder (77) . This is mounted on the carrier plate (70).
• the leaf spring (75) which is pivotable about its attachment to the angle piece (74), carries an elastic clamping strip (78) in its lower edge region.
• the arrangement is such that the two clamping strips (78) lie on the side edge zone of the sleeve blank (A) to be sewn behind the stop bracket (58) after the lowering of their carrier plates (70).
• the frame (1) (Fig. 1) carries a table top (1a) for supporting the clothing part (B) when it is placed with its edge zone to be sewn against the stop bracket (43) on the carriage (10).
• the table top (la) is cut out to the side to accommodate two guide rods (79) which carry a sliding carriage (80).
• a clamping rail (81) In this the end of a clamping rail (81) is vertically displaceably mounted, the displacement of which is controlled by a pneumatic cylinder (not shown) attached below the carriage (80). The horizontal movement of the slide (80) on the
• Guide rods (79) cause a motor (82) via a chain (83), the ends of which are attached to the carriage (80).
• the rotary drive (4) (FIGS. 1 and 7) contains a bearing support (85) fastened on the table top (1a), in which two guide rods (86) are slidably mounted.
• the ends of the guide rods (86) are on the one hand with a carrier (87) and on the other hand with one
• connection piece (88) connected.
• a chain (89) is attached to the connecting piece (88) and is mounted on a chain bearing (85)
• Sprocket (90) runs and can be driven by a drive wheel (91) of a motor (92) which is also attached to the table top (1a).
• a stepper motor (97) is on the carrier (87). attached, the shaft (95) is connected to a support plate (96). The shaft (95) contains an axial one
• Sleeve cut (A) is formed.
• Fig. 1 the material clamp (3) is shown in its raised starting position, the carriage (10) being in its position moved up to the table top (1a).
• the operator has placed the clothing part (B) on the table top (1a) and applied the edge zone of the sleeve cutout (A) to be sewn to the stop bracket (43).
• the clamping rail (81) is located here contrary to the representation still in its correct final position in a raised position.
• the clamp (3) is lowered by switching on the pneumatic cylinder (38) and the clamping elements (42) lie on the edge zone of the clothing part (B).
• the operator swivels the toothed segments (16 and 17) by pulling the handles (31 and 32) apart.
• the bolts (27 to 30) move in their slots (23 to 26) and cause the toothed segments (16 and 17) to roll along the roller chain (18).
• the shape of the slots (23 to 26) is chosen so that the roller chain (18) forms a straight line when the two toothed segments (16 and 17) are pivoted out. This state is shown by the dash-dotted representation of the toothed segments (16, 17) and the roller chain (18) in FIGS. 1 and 2.
• the clamping elements (42) also move with the roller chain (18) and cause the clamped edge zone of the clothing part (B) to be shifted into a straight line directly outside the edge of the table top (1a).
• the clamping rail (81) is moved by driving the motor (82) to the left over the clothing part (B) and the pneumatic cylinder, not shown, is switched on for the vertical movement of the clamping rail (81), so that the clothing part (B) immediately next to it in the Just shifted edge zone clamped on the table top (1a).
• the pneumatic cylinder (38) has been switched off, the clamp (3) is raised by the spring (41) and the carriage (10) moves into its retracted position.
• the operator places the sleeve blank (A) on the workpiece clamp (5) arranged on the work table (53) (FIGS. 4 to 6) in such a way that the edge to be sewn abuts the stop bracket (58).
• the clamping bar (63) lowers on the central part of the edge zone of the sleeve blank (A).
• the pneumatic cylinders (72) fastened below the work table (53) are then switched on, which act on the respective support plate (70) and thus lower the clamping strips (78) fastened thereon to the two lateral edge zones.
• the pneumatic cylinders (77) are then switched on, as a result of which the two lateral edge zones held by the clamping strips (78) are displaced towards the material clamp (5). They then form straight sections running tangentially to the circular arc-shaped central section of the edge zone.
• the fabric lying behind the lateral edge zones folds and is clamped onto the sleeve blank (A) by lowering the bracket (50).
• the operator now transfers the workpiece clamp (5) from its position on the work table (53) to the support plate (96) on the support body (87) of the rotary drive (4).
• the support body (87) has meanwhile been turned on by the motor (91) in its left end position via the clothing part (B) hazards.
• the operator places the material clamp (5) by inserting the pin (52) into the bore (98) on the support plate (96) so that the left edge zone of the sleeve blank (A) to be sewn on touches the left part of the edge zone of the clothing part (B ) covered, as Fig. 8 shows.
• the hexagonal shape of the pin (52) and the bore (98) ensures the rotational position of the material clamp (5) on the support plate (96).
• the sewing process begins as soon as the two edge zones of the clothing part (B) and sleeve cut (A) enter the stitch formation point.
• the motor (82) is driven, which moves the clamping rail (81) over the slide (80) to the right synchronously with the movement of the sewing machine (2) and thus releases the clamping area next to the sewn edge zone of the clothing part (B).
• the sewing machine (2) After the sewing machine (2) has sewn the straight part of the edge zone of the sleeve blank (A), it actuates a limit switch, not shown, which switches on both the stepper motor (97) and the motor (92).
• the stepper motor (97) rotates the sewing material clamp (5) via the shaft (95), while the motor (92) moves the sewing material clamp (5) synchronously with the feed speed of the sewing machine (2) via the chain (89), so that the edge zone the middle circular part of the sleeve blank (A) is sewn to the middle part of the edge zone of the clothing part (B) (Fig. 9).
• the limit switch (not shown) is switched off again, so that Stepper motor (97) and motor (92) are switched off.

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• Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
• Textile Engineering (AREA)
• Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Publications (1)

Family

ID=6339776

Family Applications (1)

Country Status (4)

Cited By (1)

Families Citing this family (5)

Family Cites Families (8)

• 1987
  • 1987-11-05 DE DE19873737469 patent/DE3737469A1/de active Granted
• 1988
  • 1988-10-24 WO PCT/EP1988/000952 patent/WO1989004391A1/de not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 1988-10-24 EP EP19880908958 patent/EP0389496A1/de not_active Withdrawn
  • 1988-10-24 JP JP63508285A patent/JPH03500493A/ja active Pending

Non-Patent Citations (1)

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