CN1976673B - 含有季戊四醇酯或其低聚物的o/w-凝胶组合物 - Google Patents
含有季戊四醇酯或其低聚物的o/w-凝胶组合物 Download PDFInfo
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- CN1976673B CN1976673B CN2005800096338A CN200580009633A CN1976673B CN 1976673 B CN1976673 B CN 1976673B CN 2005800096338 A CN2005800096338 A CN 2005800096338A CN 200580009633 A CN200580009633 A CN 200580009633A CN 1976673 B CN1976673 B CN 1976673B
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Abstract
本发明的主题是O/W-凝胶组合物,含有(a)0.05-5重量%至少一种聚合物胶凝剂,选自丙烯酸和/或丙烯酰胺及其衍生物的均聚物或共聚物,(b)0.1-10重量%至少一种熔点至少为30℃的蜡成分,选自季戊四醇酯、二季戊四醇酯和/或三季戊四醇酯,(c)1-30重量%至少一种在25℃下为液态的油成分,和(d)60-95重量%水。其他主题是该组合物的用途及其制备方法。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及特殊的O/W-凝胶配方,其作为护肤剂的用途及其制备方法。
现有技术
聚丙烯酸酯/盐基的凝胶配方是技术人员早就已知的。这些凝胶配方很多都涉及用于清洁身体的含表面活性剂的制剂。例如WO96117591和WO96117592描述了用于洁肤的含表面活性剂的配方,它们通过聚合物凝胶剂而稳定化。虽然凝胶使皮质感觉中枢获得柔和并适意的清凉印象,但其通常不用于护肤剂的配方,因为其护理效果差。特别是聚丙烯酸酯/盐基的凝胶配方没有持久的护理效果,此外,凝胶配方是盐敏感性的,所以当将其涂敷在皮肤上时由于出现盐而经常破裂。
本发明的任务是提供凝胶配方,其具有适意、感觉柔和的特征以及良好的护理效果,并且涂敷在皮肤上时不破裂。该任务的另一方面是提供尽可能无刺激的配方。
现在令人惊讶地发现,如果配制含有由某些胶凝剂、蜡和油类组成的组合物的O/W-凝胶,则可实现这些性能。
发明内容
因此,本发明主题是O/W-凝胶组合物,其含有
(a)0.05-5重量%至少一种聚合物胶凝剂,它选自丙烯酸类和/或丙烯酰胺及其衍生物的均聚物或共聚物,
(b)0.1-10重量%至少一种熔点至少为30℃的蜡成分,它选自季戊四醇酯、二季戊四醇酯和/或三季戊四醇酯
(c)1-30重量%至少一种在25℃下为液态的油成分,和
(d)60-95重量%水。
这种组合物对于皮肤上的盐份基本上是更稳定,并且在使用时具有光滑且柔和的感觉,具有很好的护理性能。其易于分散,良好地施用在皮肤上, 留下相对较小的油腻或油脂感,而有丝绒般的柔软细腻的皮肤感觉。
在优选的实施方式中,根据本发明的组合物不含有另外的阴离子和阳离子表面活性剂/乳化剂。因此该组合物的刺激潜能较小。
根据本发明的O/W-凝胶组合物在20℃下的粘度优选为50000~500000mPa·s,采用Brookfield-粘度计RVF,带有Helipath的Spindel TE每分钟转数为4时测得。
胶凝剂
胶凝剂选自丙烯酸类和/或丙烯酰胺及其衍生物的均聚物或共聚物或者这些物质的任意混合物。市场常用的聚合物还常常含有非离子的表面活性剂/乳化剂。可用于本发明的市售可得的胶凝剂是以下物质:例如305,INCI:聚丙烯酰胺(和)C13-14异链烷烃(和)Laureth-7;501,INCI:丙烯酰胺共聚物(和)矿物油(和)C13-14异链烷烃(和)Polysorbat85;502,INCI:C13-14异链烷烃(和)异硬脂酸异硬脂基酯(和)聚丙烯酸钠(和)聚丙烯酰胺(和)Polysorbat60;600,INCI:丙烯酰胺/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠的共聚物(和)异十六烷(和)Polysorbat80;800,INCI:聚丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠(和)异十六烷(和)失水山梨糖醇油酸酯;EG,INCI:丙烯酸钠/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸的共聚物(和)异十六烷(和)Polysorbat80;EG-SL,INCI:丙烯酸钠/丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸的共聚物(和)聚异丁烯(和)辛酰/辛基葡糖苷;NS,INCI:羟基乙基丙烯酸酯(和)丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸钠的共聚物(和)角鲨烷(和)Polysorbat60;AVC,INCI:丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸铵/VP共聚物;AVC-1,INCI:丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸铵/乙烯基甲酰胺的共聚物;HMB,INCI:丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸铵/Beheneth-25甲基丙烯酸酯的共聚物;SC91,INCI:丙烯酸钠共聚物(和)矿物油(和)PPG-1Trideceth-6;AST,INCI:丙烯酸钠共聚物(和)Glycin Soja(和)PPG-1Trideceth-6;TR-1,INCI:丙烯酸酯/丙烯酸C10-30烷基酯的交联聚合物;TR-2:丙烯酸酯/丙烯酸C10-30烷基酯的交联聚合物;980,INCI:卡波姆(例如,与季戊四醇的烯丙醚、蔗糖的烯丙醚或丙烯的烯丙醚交联的丙烯酸的均聚物);ETD 2020,INCI:丙烯酸酯/丙烯酸C10-30烷基酯的交联聚合物;Ultrez 10,INCI:卡波姆;ATH,INCI:聚丙烯酸钠(和)硬脂酸乙基己基酯(和)Trideceth-6;ATC,INCI:丙烯酰胺/丙烯酸钠的共聚物(和)矿物油(和)Trideceth-6;
聚合物可以是交联或非交联的。优选使用交联的聚合物。根据本发明优选的是聚丙烯酸酯/盐和聚丙烯酰胺类。更优选的是聚丙烯酸酯/盐,特别是其钠盐。本发明更特别优选的聚合物是以名称为SP和SPL出售的。根据本发明,聚合物的用量以总组合物计为0.05-5重量%。优选的用量以总组合物计为0.1-4重量%,特别是0.5-3重量%,更特别优选0.5-2重量%。
蜡成分
术语蜡通常是指具有以下性质的所有天然或人造获得的物质和物质混合物:它们是固态到脆硬的紧密性,粗大的到细微晶体的,透明到浑浊的以及在30℃以上熔化而不分解。它们在略高于熔点以上是低粘性的而不拉丝状的,并且其紧密性和溶解性表现出强的温度依赖性。可用于本发明中的是在30℃或以上熔化并且选自季戊四醇酯、二季戊四醇酯或三季戊四醇酯的蜡成分或蜡成分的混合物。其在本发明组合物中所含有的总量为0.1-10重量%。在本发明一个优选的实施方式中,蜡成分的含量以总组合物计为0.2-5重量%。特别优选该量以总组合物计为0.5-4重量%,特别是0.5-2重量%。蜡成分含量以总组合物计更特别优选为0.5~1.5重量%,因为在所述范围内,感觉的总体特征是最佳的。该O/W-凝胶组合物的另一优选的实施方式的特征在于,蜡成分或蜡成分混合物(b)的熔点为40℃~80℃,优选为40~60℃,因为在所述范围内达到最好的感觉效果。
在本发明另一优选的实施方式中,蜡成分(b)选自季戊四醇、二季戊四醇和/或三季戊四醇的饱和或不饱和和/或支链或非支链的C6-C24-脂肪酸,优选C14-C22-脂肪酸的酯,其中含有小于0.3重量%的C17-脂肪酸酯。该酯必须具有至少30℃的熔点。还可以是混合酯,例如长链和短链脂肪酸,只要它们具有所要求的熔点。该O/W-凝胶组合物另一优选的实施方式的特征在于,蜡成分(b)选自通过季戊四醇或二季戊四醇与含有40-50重量%的C16-脂肪酸和45-55重量%的C18-脂肪酸的脂肪酸的混合物反应得到的酯。特别优选是线性、非支链的C16/C18-脂肪酸的酯。该O/W-凝胶组合物另一优选 的实施方式含有至少一种选自含有(a)5-35重量%单酯、(b)20-50重量%二酯和(c)25-50重量%三酯以及任选的四酯的季戊四醇酯的蜡成分(b)。更特别优选的酯是通过季戊四醇与含有40-50重量%C16-脂肪酸和45-55重量%C18-脂肪酸的脂肪酸混合物进行反应得到的,并具有以下的酯分布:(a)12-19重量%的单酯、(b)25-35重量%的二酯和(c)30-40重量%的三酯和6-11重量%的四酯。
油体
根据本发明的O/W-凝胶含有占总组合物1-30重量%、在25℃下为液态的油成分或这些油成分的任意混合物。在总量中所含有的油成分优选为3-20重量%,特别是5-15重量%,特别优选7-12重量%。合适的油体例如是以下所述的化合物类型,只要它们在25℃为液态。特别可以列举基于含有6~18个、优选8~10个碳原子的脂肪醇的格尔伯特醇,线性或支化的、饱和或不饱和的C6-C22-脂肪酸与线性或支化的、饱和或不饱和的C6-C22-脂肪醇、特别是2-乙基己醇形成的酯。例如可提及月桂酸己酯、异硬脂酸肉豆蔻酯、油酸肉豆蔻酯、异硬脂酸鲸蜡酯、油酸鲸蜡酯、异硬脂酸硬脂基酯、油酸硬脂基酯、肉豆蔻酸异硬脂基酯、棕榈酸异硬脂基酯、硬脂酸异硬脂基酯、异硬脂酸异硬脂基酯、油酸异硬脂基酯、肉豆蔻酸油基酯、异硬脂酸油基酯、油酸油基酯、瓢儿菜酸油基酯、异硬脂酸瓢儿菜基酯、油酸瓢儿菜基酯、椰油辛酸酯/癸酸酯。其他合适的酯例如是C18-C38-烷基羟基羧酸与线性或支化的、饱和或不饱和的C6-C22-脂肪醇形成的酯,线性和/或支化的、饱和或不饱和脂肪酸与多元醇(例如丙二醇、二聚二醇或三聚三醇)和/或格尔伯特醇形成的酯、甘油三酯或甘油三酯混合物,甘油单酯/二酯/三酯混合物,C6-C22-脂肪醇和/或格尔伯特醇与芳族羧酸、特别是苯甲酸形成的酯,C2-C12-二羧酸与含有1~22个碳原子的线性或支化的、饱和或不饱和醇或者含有2~10个碳原子和2~6个羟基的多元醇形成的酯,植物性油类,支化的伯醇,取代的环己烷,线性的碳酸二烷基酯,基于含有6~18个、优选8~10个碳原子的脂肪醇的碳酸格尔伯特酯,苯甲酸与线性和/或支化的C6-C22-醇(例如AB)线性或支化的、对称或非对称的二烷基醚(每个烷基有6~22个碳原子),例如二正辛基醚(OE)形成的酯,或者含有多元醇的环氧化的脂肪酸酯的开环产物,烃类如链烷烃油或矿物油, 硅酮油和低聚α烯烃或聚α烯烃。
根据本发明,优选是碳酸二烷基酯和由C8-C24-脂肪酸和C8-C24脂肪醇形成的酯或者这些物质的混合物作为油体。碳酸二烷基酯可以是对称或非对称的、支化或非支化的、饱和或不饱和的,并且可以根据现有技术早已公知的酯交换反应制得。根据本发明特别合适的是带有含6~24个碳原子的烷基链的碳酸二烷基酯,特别是碳酸二-正辛基酯或碳酸二-(2-乙基己基)酯或者这些物质的混合物。其中优选碳酸二-正辛基酯。
可用于本发明的烃链长度优选为8~40个碳原子。它们可以是支化或非支化的、饱和或不饱和的。其中优选是支化、饱和的C8-C40-烷烃。既可以使用纯物质也可以使用物质混合物。通常是不同异构体化合物的物质混合物。包含具有10~30个、优选12~20个、特别优选16~20个碳原子的烷烃的组合物是特别合适的,并且其中由含有占烷烃总量至少10重量%支化烷烃的烷烃形成的混合物是特别优选的。优选是支化的饱和烷烃。特别良好适合的是烷烃的混合物,其含有大于1重量%的5,8-二乙基十二烷和/或大于1重量%的二癸烯。
本发明O/W-凝胶组合物的一种优选的实施方式含有(a)0.05-5重量%的至少一种聚丙烯酸酯/盐,(b)0.1-10重量%的至少一种季戊四醇和/或二季戊四醇的C16/C18-酯,(c)1-30重量%的至少一种油成分和(d)60-95重量%的水。聚丙烯酸酯/盐(a)优选是聚丙烯酸钠。油成分优选选自脂肪酸酯或碳酸二烷基酯或这些物质的任意混合物。
另一种优选的实施方式是含有以下组分的O/W-凝胶组合物:(a)0.5-2重量%的至少一种聚丙烯酸钠,(b)0.5-2重量%的至少一种通过季戊四醇和/或二季戊四醇与含有40-50重量%C16-脂肪酸和45-55重量%C18-脂肪酸的脂肪酸混合物反应得到的酯,(c)7-12重量%的至少一种油成分,其选自在25℃下为液态的脂肪酸酯,甘油三酯,碳酸二烷基酯,烃,二烷基醚或这些物质的任意混合物,和(d)60-95重量%的水。(b)中所述的酯优选是具有以下酯分布的季戊四醇酯:12-19重量%的单酯、25-35重量%的二酯、30-40重量%的三酯和6-11重量%的四酯。
本申请另一主题是一种制备本发明O/W-凝胶组合物的方法,其中,或者a)将胶凝剂或胶凝剂的混合物(a)分散在含有蜡成分和油成分的液态油相中,然后用水相进行乳化,或者b)将胶凝剂或胶凝剂混合物溶胀在水相中, 并使其与液态油相混合,或者c)胶凝剂或胶凝剂混合物溶胀在分子量<1000道尔顿的低分子量的多元醇或多元醇混合物并用水相和用液态油相处理。
本发明主题还在于本发明O/W-凝胶组合物在身体护理中的用途。本发明另一主题是季戊四醇酯、二季戊四醇酯和/或三季戊四醇酯在改善权利要求1的组合物的盐耐受性中的用途。
另外选用的辅剂和添加剂
根据使用目的不同,该化妆品配方还含有一系列的其他辅剂和添加剂例如乳化剂/表面活性剂、其他的蜡成分或脂质成分、其他的增稠剂、富脂剂、稳定剂、聚合物、卵磷脂、磷脂、生物活性物质、防紫外线因子、抗氧化剂、除臭剂、成膜剂、溶胀剂、驱虫剂、水溶助长剂、增溶剂、防腐剂、芳香油、颜料等,它们将在后面示例性列出。每种添加剂的量视预期的应用而定。
作为其他的蜡/脂质成分,可以使用具有蜡状紧密性的脂肪和类似脂肪的物质。属于此类的特别是脂肪(甘油三酯)、甘油单酯和甘油二酯、天然和合成性蜡、脂肪醇和蜡醇、脂肪酸、脂肪醇和脂肪酸的酯以及脂肪酸酰胺或这些物质的任意混合物。
脂肪是指三酰基甘油,也指脂肪酸与甘油的三元酯。其优选含有饱和、非支化的和未取代的脂肪酸基团。在此还可以是混合酯,也可以是由甘油与不同脂肪酸形成的三元酯。可用于本发明并且特别良好地适合作为紧密性赋予剂的是通过部分氢化而获得的所谓硬化的脂肪和油类。优选植物性硬化的脂肪和油类,例如硬化的蓖麻油、花生油、大豆油、菜油、油菜籽油、棉籽油、大豆油、向日葵油、棕榈油、棕榈核油、亚麻子油、杏仁油、玉米油、橄榄油、麻油、可可脂和椰子油。
特别合适的是甘油与C12-C60-脂肪酸和特别是C12-C36-脂肪酸的三元酯。在此可列举硬化的蓖麻油,由甘油和羟基硬脂酸形成的三元酯,例如以名称HR出售。同样合适的还有三硬脂酸甘油酯、三山萮酸甘油酯(例如HRC)、三棕榈酸甘油酯或者已知名称为HGLC的三甘油酯混合物。
作为其他的蜡成分的尤其可使用单甘油酯和二甘油酯或者这些偏甘油 酯的混合物。可用于本发明的甘油酯混合物例如有由Cognis DeutschlandGmbH&Co.KG出售的产品AB和B(由甘油C12-C18-单酯、二酯和三酯形成的混合物)以及MD或GMS(硬脂酸甘油酯)。
根据本发明,混合酯以及由甘油单酯、二酯和三酯形成的混合物是优选合适的,因为它们表现出较小的结晶倾向,从而改善了本发明组合物的性能。
可用于本发明的脂肪醇例如有由天然脂肪、油类和蜡获得的C12-C50-脂肪醇,特别是C12-C24-脂肪醇,例如肉豆蔻醇、1-十五烷醇、鲸蜡醇,1-十七烷醇、硬脂醇、1-十九烷醇、二十烷醇、1-二十一烷醇、山萮醇、二十三烷醇、二十四烷醇、二十六烷醇或蜂花醇。本发明优选饱和、非支化的脂肪醇。可用于本发明的还有脂肪醇馏分,例如在还原天然来源的脂肪和油类如牛脂、花生油、菜籽油、棉籽油、大豆油、向日葵油、棕榈核油、亚麻子油、蓖麻油、玉米油、油菜籽油、芝麻油、可可脂和椰子油时产生的。也可以使用合成性醇,例如由Ziegler-合成的线性、成偶数的(geradzahligen)脂肪醇或者由羰基合成部分支化的醇。根据本发明,优选合适的是C14-C18-脂肪醇,例如由Cognis Deutschland GmbH以名称16(C16-醇),14(C14-醇),O(C16/C18-醇)和22(C18/C22-醇)出售。与三甘油酯相比,脂肪醇使组合物具有干爽的皮肤感觉,因此比后者更优选。
作为其它的蜡成分,还可以使用C14-C40-脂肪酸或其混合物。属于此类的例如有肉豆蔻酸、十五烷酸、棕榈酸、十七烷酸、硬脂酸、十九烷酸、二十烷酸、山萮酸、二十四烷酸、蜡酸、蜂花酸、芥酸和桐酸以及取代的脂肪酸,例如12-羟基硬脂酸,和脂肪酸的酰胺或单乙醇酰胺,这里的列举是示例性的,并没有限定性特征。
本发明可使用例如天然的植物性蜡,例如小烛树蜡、巴西棕榈蜡、日本蜡、西班牙草蜡、软木蜡、瓜拉那蜡(Guarumawachs)、米糠油蜡、甘蔗蜡、小冠巴西棕蜡、褐煤蜡、向日葵蜡,水果蜡,如橘子蜡、柠檬蜡、圆柚蜡、月桂子蜡(=Bayberrywax),以及动物性蜡,例如蜂蜡、紫胶蜡、鲸蜡、羊毛蜡和尾蜡脂肪。本发明意义上优选使用氢化的或硬化的蜡。可用于本发明中的天然蜡还包括矿物蜡,例如精制地蜡和地蜡或者石油化学蜡,例如矿 脂、石蜡和微蜡。作为蜡成分还可以使用化学改性的蜡,特别是硬蜡,例如褐煤酯蜡、萨苏尔蜡(Sasol wachs)和氢化的霍霍巴蜡。可用于本发明的合成性蜡例如包括蜡状的聚亚烷基蜡和聚乙二醇蜡。本发明优选植物性蜡。
其它的蜡成分同样可以选自由饱和和/或不饱和的、支化和/或非支化的链烷羧酸和饱和和/或不饱和的、支化和/或非支化的醇形成的蜡酯,由芳族羧酸、二羧酸、三羧酸或羟基羧酸(例如12-羟基硬脂酸)与饱和和/或不饱和的、支化和/或非支化的醇形成的酯,与羧酸进行酯化的多元醇(除了季戊四醇、二季戊四醇或三季戊四醇),此外还有长链羟基羧酸的交酯。这样的酯的实例是硬脂酸C16-C40-烷基酯、硬脂酸C20-C40-烷基酯(例如K82H),二聚酸的C20-C40-二烷基酯、C18-C38-烷基羟基硬脂酰基硬脂酸酯或瓢儿菜酸C20-C40-烷基酯。还可使用C30-C50-烷基蜂蜡、柠檬酸三硬脂基酯、柠檬酸三异硬脂基酯、庚酸硬脂基酯、辛酸硬脂基酯、柠檬酸三月桂基酯、乙二醇二棕榈酸酯、乙二醇二硬脂酸酯、乙二醇二(12-羟基硬脂酸酯)、硬脂酸硬脂基酯、硬脂酸棕榈基酯、山萮酸硬脂基酯、山萮酸十六十八烷基(Cetearyl)酯和山萮酸山萮酯。
作为表面活性物质,可含有阴离子、非离子、阳离子和/或两性或两性离子的表面活性剂或乳化剂,或者这些表面活性剂/乳化剂的任意混合物。表面活性物质的含量取决于配方类型,但通常不超过10重量%。本发明一种优选的实施方式不含有阴离子或阳离子表面活性剂,但含有非离子表面活性剂。非离子表面活性剂尤其还可以含有市售的胶凝剂。非离子表面活性剂优选的含量以凝胶的总组合物计,为0-5重量%,特别是0.1-3重量%。
阴离子表面活性剂的典型实例是皂类、烷基苯磺酸盐、烷基磺酸盐、烯属磺酸盐、烷基醚磺酸盐、甘油醚磺酸盐、α-甲基酯磺酸盐、磺基脂肪酸、烷基硫酸盐、脂肪醇醚硫酸盐、甘油醚硫酸盐、脂肪酸醚硫酸盐、羟基混合醚硫酸盐、单甘油酯(醚)硫酸盐、脂肪酸酰胺(醚)硫酸盐、单-和二烷基磺基琥珀酸盐、单-和二烷基磺基琥珀酰胺酸盐、磺基甘油三酯、酰胺皂类、醚羧酸及其盐、脂肪酸羟乙基磺酸盐、脂肪酸肌氨酸盐、脂肪酸牛磺酸盐、N-酰基氨基酸,例如酰基乳酸盐、酰基酒石酸盐、酰基谷氨酸盐和酰基天冬氨酸盐、烷基低聚葡糖苷硫酸盐、蛋白脂肪酸缩合物(尤其是小麦基的植物性产物)和烷基(醚)磷酸盐。如果阴离子表面活性剂含有聚乙二醇醚链, 那么它们可具有常规的、但优选窄的同系物分布。非离子表面活性剂的典型实例是脂肪醇聚乙二醇醚、聚甘油酯、烷基酚聚乙二醇醚、脂肪酸聚乙二醇酯、脂肪酸酰胺聚乙二醇醚、脂肪胺聚乙二醇醚、烷氧基化甘油三酯、混合醚或混合缩甲醛、(亚)烷基低聚苷或葡糖酰酸衍生物(任选部分氧化的)、脂肪酸-N-烷基葡糖酰胺、蛋白水解产物(尤其是小麦基的植物性产物)、多元醇脂肪酸酯、糖酯、脱水山梨糖醇酯、多山梨糖酸酯和氧化胺。如果非离子表面活性剂含有聚乙二醇醚链,那么它们可具有常规的、但优选窄的同系物分布。阳离子表面活性剂的典型实例是季铵化合物,例如二甲基二硬脂基氯化铵、和酯季铵盐(Esterquats),尤其是季铵化的脂肪酸三链烷醇胺酯盐。两性或两性离子表面活性剂的典型实例是烷基甜菜碱、烷基酰胺甜菜碱、氨基丙酸盐、氨基甘氨酸盐、咪唑啉甜菜碱和磺基甜菜碱。列举的表面活性剂中涉及公知的化合物。有关这些物质的结构和制备方法参见该领域相关的综述。特别适用的温和型的典型实例,即特别适于皮肤的表面活性剂是脂肪醇聚乙二醇醚硫酸盐、甘油单硫酸酯盐、单-和/或二烷基磺基琥珀酸盐、脂肪酸羟乙基磺酸盐、脂肪酸肌氨酸盐、脂肪酸牛磺酸盐、脂肪酸谷氨酸盐、α-烯属磺酸盐、醚羧酸、烷基寡苷、脂肪酸葡糖酰胺、烷基酰胺甜菜碱、两性乙缩醛和/或蛋白脂肪酸缩合物,后者优选基于小麦蛋白。
合适的增稠剂是诸如Aerosil型(亲水型硅酸)、多糖、特别是黄原胶、瓜耳-瓜耳胶、琼脂、藻酸盐和纤基乙酸钠、羧甲基纤维素以及羟乙基-和羟丙基纤维素、聚乙烯醇、聚乙烯吡咯烷酮和膨润土,例如Gel VS-5PC(Rheox)。
防紫外线因子是指例如在室温下呈液态或结晶态的有机物质(保护性滤光剂),它们能够吸收紫外线的辐射并以长波辐射形式如热量将所吸收的能量释放。UV-B-滤光剂可以是油溶性或水溶性的。典型的UV-A-滤光剂特别是苯甲酰甲烷的衍生物。当然也可以混合使用UV-A和UV-B滤光剂,例如由苯甲酰甲烷的衍生物诸如4-叔丁基-4’-甲氧基二苯甲酰甲烷(1789)和2-氰基-3,3-苯基肉桂酸-2-乙基己酯(氰双苯丙烯酸辛酯)以及肉桂酸酯,优选4-甲氧基肉桂酸-2-乙基己酯和/或4-甲氧基肉桂酸丙酯和/或4-甲氧基肉硅酸异戊酯的组合物。常常将这类组合物与水溶性滤光剂诸如2-苯基苯并咪唑-5-磺酸及其碱金属盐、碱土金属盐、铵盐、烷基铵盐、链烷醇铵盐 和葡糖铵盐进行组合使用。
除了所述的可溶性物质外,还可以使用不溶的防光颜料,即细分散的金属氧化物。合适的金属氧化物例如特别是氧化锌和二氧化钛。
除了上述两组的一级防光物质外,也可使用抗氧化剂类型的二级防光剂,它们能中断在UV射线渗入皮肤时,所引发的光化学反应链。
生物活性物质例如是指生育酚、乙酸生育酚酯、棕榈酸生育酚酯、抗坏血酸、(脱氧)核糖核酸及其片段产物、β-葡聚糖、视黄醇、红没药醇、尿囊素、植烷三醇、泛醇、AHA酸、氨基酸、神经酰胺、类神经酰胺、精油、植物提取物(例如李属提取物、非洲花生(Bambaranuss)提取物)和复合维生素。
除臭活性物质起到抵制、遮盖或消除人体散发气味的作用。人体气味是通过皮肤细菌在顶泌汗腺上作用而产生的,形成了令人厌恶气味的降解产物。相应地,抗菌剂、抑霉剂、吸味剂或气味掩盖剂也特别适合作为除臭活性物质。
合适的驱虫剂例如是N,N-二乙基-间-甲苯甲酰胺、1,2-戊二醇或3-(N-正丁基-N-乙酰基-氨基)-丙酸乙基酯),Merck KGaA将其称为Insect3535,以及丁基乙酰基氨基丙酸酯。
作为自行变黑剂适宜的有二羟基乙酮。作为酪氨酸抑止剂,能抑止黑色素形成而用于脱色剂的,例如有熊果苷、阿魏酸、曲酸、香豆酸和抗坏血酸(维生素C)。
还可使用用于改善流动性的水溶助剂,例如乙醇、异丙醇或多元醇。合适的多元醇优选具有2~15个碳原子和至少2个羟基。
作为芳香油,可提及由天然和合成香料形成的混合物。天然香料是花、茎和叶、果、果皮、根、木、草本植物和草、针叶和细枝、树脂和香膏的提取物。也可使用动物原料,例如灵猫香和海狸香,以及酯、醚、醛、酮、醇和烃类的合成的香料化合物。
作为颜料,可以使用适合于化妆目的并允许使用的物质。例如胭脂虫红A(C.I.16255)、专利蓝V(C.I.42051)、靛蓝(C.I.73015)、叶绿酸(C.I.75810)、喹 啉黄(C.I.47005)、二氧化钛(C.I.77891)、阴丹士林蓝RS(C.I.69800)和茜素红色淀(C.I.58000)。这些颜料通常以占混合物总量的0.001-0.1重量%浓度使用。
实施例
所给出的量是以总组合物中市售物质的重量%计。
1)二硬脂酸季戊四醇酯是通过季戊四醇与含有42-48重量%的C16-脂肪酸和50-56重量%的C18-脂肪酸(其余量:≤C14-脂肪酸并>C18-脂肪酸)的脂肪酸混合物反应得到的酯混合物,并具有以下的酯分布:12-19重量%的单酯,(b)25-35重量%的二酯,(c)30-40重量%的三酯和(d)6-11重量%的四酯,并含有小于0.3重量%的C17-脂肪酸酰基。
粘度测量
-在V1、V2和实施例2-6:在20℃下用Brookfield-粘度计RVF,带有Helipath的Spindel TE,每分钟转数为4。
-在V3和实施例1:在23℃下Brookfield-粘度计RVF,Spindel 5,每分钟转数为10
相稳定性的目测评价
1=稳定;2=很微小分离;3=小分离;4=明显分离;5=完全分离
感觉评价:
++=极好;+=很好;=良好,-=中等;-不满意
测试组:10个有经验并受过训练的志愿者
10μl所述组合物通过微型吸管涂敷在试验者前臂的无毛发侧,并用对侧的手指涂擦。在吸收过程中和吸收后评价感觉。
Claims (19)
1.O/W-凝胶组合物,含有
(a)0.05-5重量%至少一种聚合物胶凝剂,其选自丙烯酸类和/或丙烯酰胺的均聚物或共聚物,
(b)0.1-10重量%至少一种熔点至少为30℃的蜡成分,该蜡成分(b)选自季戊四醇、二季戊四醇和/或三季戊四醇的饱和或不饱和和/或支化或非支化的C6-C24-脂肪酸的酯,或者这些酯的任意混合物,其中含有小于0.3重量%的C17-脂肪酸酯,
(c)1-30重量%至少一种在25℃下为液态的油成分,和
(d)60-95重量%水。
2.根据权利要求1的O/W-凝胶组合物,其中,所述C6-C24-脂肪酸为C14-C22-脂肪酸。
3.根据权利要求1的O/W-凝胶组合物,其特征在于,该组合物不含有阴离子的和阳离子的乳化剂或表面活性剂。
4.根据权利要求1的O/W-凝胶组合物,其特征在于,蜡成分(b)的含量占总组合物的0.2-5重量%。
5.根据权利要求3的O/W-凝胶组合物,其特征在于,蜡成分(b)的含量占总组合物的0.2-5重量%。
6.根据权利要求1的O/W-凝胶组合物,其特征在于,蜡成分(b)选自通过季戊四醇或二季戊四醇与含有40-50重量%的C16-脂肪酸和45-55重量%的C18-脂肪酸的脂肪酸的混合物反应得到的酯。
7.根据权利要求6的O/W-凝胶组合物,其特征在于,蜡成分(b)选自季戊四醇酯,其含有(a)5-35重量%单酯、(b)20-50重量%二酯和(c)25-50重量%三酯以及任选的四酯。
8.根据权利要求1~7中任一项的O/W-凝胶组合物,其特征在于,含有
(a)0.05-5重量%的至少一种聚丙烯酸酯/盐,
(b)0.1-10重量%的至少一种季戊四醇和/或二季戊四醇的C16/C18-酯,
(c)1-30重量%的至少一种在25℃下为液态的油成分,和
(d)60-95重量%的水。
9.根据权利要求8的O/W-凝胶组合物,其特征在于,聚丙烯酸酯/盐(a)是聚丙烯酸钠。
10.根据权利要求8的O/W-凝胶组合物,其特征在于,油成分选自脂肪酸酯或碳酸二烷基酯或这些物质的任意混合物。
11.根据权利要求9的O/W-凝胶组合物,其特征在于,油成分选自脂肪酸酯或碳酸二烷基酯或这些物质的任意混合物。
12.根据权利要求1~7中任一项的O/W-凝胶组合物,其特征在于,该组合物在20℃下的粘度为50000~500000mPa·s,采用Brookfield-粘度计RVF,带有Helipath的Spindel TE,在每分钟转数为4时测得。
13.根据权利要求8的O/W-凝胶组合物,其特征在于,该组合物在20℃下的粘度为50000~500000mPa·s,采用Brookfield-粘度计RVF,带有Helipath的Spindel TE,在每分钟转数为4时测得。
14.根据权利要求9的O/W-凝胶组合物,其特征在于,该组合物在20℃下的粘度为50000~500000mPa·s,采用Brookfield-粘度计RVF,带有Helipath的Spindel TE,在每分钟转数为4时测得。
15.根据权利要求10的O/W-凝胶组合物,其特征在于,该组合物在20℃下的粘度为50000~500000mPa·s,采用Brookfield-粘度计RVF,带有Helipath的Spindel TE,在每分钟转数为4时测得。
16.根据权利要求11的O/W-凝胶组合物,其特征在于,该组合物在20℃下的粘度为50000~500000mPa·s,采用Brookfield-粘度计RVF,带有Helipath的Spindel TE,在每分钟转数为4时测得。
17.制备权利要求1~16中任一项的O/W-凝胶组合物的方法,其特征在于,或者a)将胶凝剂或胶凝剂的混合物(a)分散在含有蜡成分和油成分的液态油相中,然后用水相进行乳化,或者b)将胶凝剂或胶凝剂混合物溶胀在水相中,并使其与液态油相混合,或者c)胶凝剂或胶凝剂混合物溶胀在分子量<1000道尔顿的低分子量的多元醇或多元醇混合物中,并用水相和液态油相处理。
18.权利要求1~16中任一项的O/W-凝胶组合物在制备用于身体护理的化妆品中的用途。
19.季戊四醇、二季戊四醇和/或三季戊四醇的饱和或不饱和和/或支化或非支化的C6-C24-脂肪酸的酯,或者这些酯的任意混合物在改善权利要求1中的含有胶凝剂的组合物的盐耐受性中的用途。
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DE102004017221.8 | 2004-04-05 | ||
PCT/EP2005/003232 WO2005097055A2 (de) | 2004-04-05 | 2005-03-26 | O/w-gel-zusammensetzungen mit estern des pentaerythrits oder dessen oligomeren |
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Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
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KR20130064816A (ko) | 2013-06-18 |
WO2005097055A3 (de) | 2006-11-30 |
US20080064761A1 (en) | 2008-03-13 |
JP5627836B2 (ja) | 2014-11-19 |
WO2005097055A2 (de) | 2005-10-20 |
KR20070001214A (ko) | 2007-01-03 |
EP1742607B1 (de) | 2009-07-01 |
CN1976673A (zh) | 2007-06-06 |
US9149420B2 (en) | 2015-10-06 |
ES2329386T3 (es) | 2009-11-25 |
KR101308835B1 (ko) | 2013-09-13 |
DE502005007621D1 (de) | 2009-08-13 |
EP1742607A2 (de) | 2007-01-17 |
DE102004017221A1 (de) | 2005-10-20 |
JP2007531776A (ja) | 2007-11-08 |
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