CN1149966C - 用于护肤品的乳化剂组合物 - Google Patents

用于护肤品的乳化剂组合物 Download PDF

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CN1149966C
CN1149966C CNB988048906A CN98804890A CN1149966C CN 1149966 C CN1149966 C CN 1149966C CN B988048906 A CNB988048906 A CN B988048906A CN 98804890 A CN98804890 A CN 98804890A CN 1149966 C CN1149966 C CN 1149966C
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M·里尔克
E·朱克
G·达姆斯
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Abstract

一种用于护肤品的乳化剂组合物，以凝胶网状物在形态存在，在高达50℃左右的温度下是稳定的，包含3～40wt%高HLB膨胀剂卵磷脂和余量的低HLB乳化凝胶剂的掺合物，该凝胶剂的掺合物的最终HLB约为1.5～5。

Description

用于护肤品的乳化剂组合物
技术领域
本发明涉及用于护肤品的乳化剂组合物，特别涉及在水包油系中可形成片状液晶凝胶网的乳化剂组合物，该组合物能够为用户提供润滑和柔软的肌肤感觉，加强了肌肤的屏障功能后无需另外的增湿剂就可起到增加水分的作用。
背景技术
人的皮肤会形成一种屏障以防止水分从体内无控制地流失。位于皮肤最外层的角质层为肌肤提供了这种屏障。以往，角质层被描述成一种“砖泥”结构，其中的角质细胞“砖”被类脂物“泥”包围。众所周知，该类脂物区域提供了健康肌肤所需的半渗透屏障，类脂质的物理组织是良好屏障功能的关键。
近年，皮肤类脂物正成为许多研究的主题，它已经从相对简单的“泥模式”转变为更复杂的“区域镶嵌模式”(DMM)。该模式中，认为皮肤类脂物具有固态或凝胶状类脂区域，与流动性更好的液晶状类脂物相邻，被称为“颗粒界面”。
该DMM模式提供了一种可防止水分任意流失的有效屏障，还可通过有节制的蒸发来控制肌体的温度。颗粒界面所具有的流动性更好的特性说明在该区域物质能够在系统内外相互渗透。但是，DMM模式中，流动颗粒界面中的类脂物会在被称为共胶束化洗涤的过程中流失。任何类脂物从颗粒界面的流失都会破坏角质层类脂物组织，使其失去屏障功能。健康肌肤需要最适宜的屏障功能以维持肌肤的湿润，防止刺激和干燥。
失去类脂物最终会使屏障功能减弱，使其渗透性更大。具有渗透性的屏障容易引起水分的流失，使皮肤变得黯淡而干燥。而且，容易使外界物质渗透入皮肤，引起敏感性皮肤反应。
护肤品中一般包含乳化剂以稳定油相和水相。但是，乳化剂会因为以下原因与皮肤发生对抗反应。大多数乳化剂的自然倾向是形成象去垢剂那样的类脂物和乳化剂的胶束。由于颗粒界面中的皮肤类脂物以流动性较强的片状状态取向，所以它们易受通常的去垢剂样的胶束乳化剂的增溶作用的影响。该增溶作用导致类脂物的净流失，削弱了皮肤的屏障功能。
本发明中，利用近似皮肤天然结构的片状凝胶相使乳剂稳定，克服了以往乳化剂导致的类脂物流失的问题。因此，本发明的护肤品是增加皮肤的类脂物而不是消耗它们。
当存在于水包油或油包水系时，通常的乳化剂通过在油中形成疏水性部分的界面和在水中形成亲水性部分的界面而发挥作用。不论乳剂是油连续的还是水连续的，该系统从根本上都被认为存在两个相和一个界面。
相对于此，本发明的乳化剂组合物以平衡状态产生了一种复杂的双层片状凝胶系统。该双层凝胶通过在油相和水相间形成独立的第三相能够更好地稳定乳剂。其结果是，形成了具有三个相和两个界面的非传统系统，它从根本上区别于具有两个相和一个界面的传统系统。
形成于本发明护肤品的片状凝胶稳定化网状物天然地与角质层类脂物的片状结构相一致。
本发明组合物中的独特的片状凝胶稳定化网状物通过两种方式构筑产品结构并稳定乳剂。第1，组合物中的独特的第三(片状)相稳定了油相；第2，增加了水相的粘性。
发明的内容
本发明的护肤品及其乳化剂组合物为使用者提供了一种润滑和柔软的肌肤感觉，而且，不需要添加另外的增湿剂就可起到增加水分的作用。
本发明的乳化剂组合物是高HLB(亲水亲油平衡)乳化剂和低HLB乳化凝胶剂掺合物的混合物，其中典型的高HLB乳化剂为卵磷脂，其含量以重量计，为3-40％，较好3.7-21％，更好4.5-17％，最好6.8-12％，余份为上述低HLB乳化剂掺合物。该低HLB乳化胶凝剂掺合物包括15-30％，较好8-27％山俞醇、15-30％，较好18-25％甘油一硬脂酸酯、15-40％，较好18-35％棕榈酸和硬脂酸的混合物和0-30％，较好12-20％马来酸化豆油并且其最终HLB一般为约1.5-5，较好为1.5-4，最好为约2.5-3.5。它还可含有3-10％的月桂醇、肉豆蔻醇和鲸蜡醇。
在包含水性和油相组分的护肤品中，本发明的乳化剂组合物提供并维持着理想的水包油系双层凝胶网状物，甚至在较广的pH范围，例如，2～12内维持其理想的HLB比值。乳化剂组合物的稳定HLB使护肤品中可混合入酸性或碱性成分，如α-羟基酸或脱毛剂。
所述低HLB乳化胶凝剂掺合物包括带有非电离性羟基的山萮醇(HLB 1.9)等醇，以及带有电离性羧基的乳化胶凝剂，即硬脂酸、棕榈酸(HLB 3.2)或非必要的马来酸化豆油(HLB 1.9)，以及甘油一硬脂酸酯(HLB 3.4)。在制备护肤品时适当混合入约1～10wt％，更好为2～7％的该乳化剂组合物。
由本乳化剂组合物形成的凝胶网状物会在45℃以上的温度下发生相变。因此，为了保证本护肤品的高温稳定性，最好添加小剂量的水解胶体稳定剂，如Stabileze06，它是一种国际专用产品，是聚乙烯基马来酐/甲基乙烯基醚的交联聚合物。
参考以下实施例，对本发明进行更为详细的说明。
以下实施例1～6的乳化剂组合物都是在室温下充分混合数种成分而制得的。
                         实施例1
膨胀剂     wt.％        凝胶剂            wt.％     HLB
卵磷脂     9.89         山萮醇            24.18     1.9
                        甘油硬脂酸酯      28.46     3.4
                        棕榈酸            15.11     3.3
                        硬脂酸            12.36     3.2
                        总计              90.11     2.9
                         实施例2
膨胀剂    wt.％         凝胶剂            wt.％     HLB
卵磷脂    11            山萮醇            23        1.9
                        甘油硬脂酸酯      21        3.4
                        棕榈酸            14.85     3.3
                        硬脂酸            12.15     3.2
                        马来酸化豆油      18        1.9
                        总计              89        2.68
                         比较例3
膨胀剂    wt.％         凝胶剂                  wt.％   HLB
卵磷脂    2             脱水山梨糖醇硬脂酸酯    98      4.7
                        实施例4
膨胀剂    wt.％         凝胶剂                  wt.％   HLB
卵磷脂    9.79          山萮醇                  24.18   1.9
                        甘油硬脂酸酯            21.98   3.4
                        棕榈酸                  15.11   3.3
                        硬脂酸                  12.36   3.2
                        马来酸化豆油            16.48   1.9
                        总计                    90.21   2.66
                   实施例5
膨胀剂       wt.％      凝胶剂          wt.％    HLB
水解卵磷脂    9         山萮醇           24      1.9
                        甘油硬脂酸酯     24      3.4
                        棕榈酸           17.2    3.3
                        硬脂酸           10.8    3.2
                        月桂醇           1.5     3.3
                        肉豆蔻醇         2       2.9
                        鲸蜡醇           1.5     2.5
                        总计             91      2.3
                         实施例6
膨胀剂    wt.％         凝胶剂           wt.％   HLB
卵磷脂     7            山萮醇           23      1.9
                        甘油硬脂酸酯     21      3.4
                        棕榈酸           17.8    3.3
                        硬脂酸           11.7    3.2
                        月桂醇           1       3.3
                        肉豆蔻醇         1.5     2.9
                        鲸蜡醇           1       2.5
                        马来酸化豆油     16      1.9
                        总计             93      2.52
使用了实施例1～6的乳化剂组合物的具有代表性的护肤品的制备如以下实施例7～10所述。
                         实施例7
                                      护肤品
相A
水                                    67.3
甘油                                  1.0
StabilezeQM(ISP)                   0.2
相B
Ceraphyl230(ISP)                   4.0
Ceraphyl494(ISP)                   6.0
Ceraphyl368(ISP)                   10.0
实施例6的组合物(ISP)                  5.0
相C
水                            5.0
NaOH(10％)                    0.5
相D
GermabenIIE(ISP)           1.0
总计                          100％
于70℃加热相A直至清澈，在同一温度下添加相B并搅拌均匀。同样在70℃一边均化一边添加相C，继续搅拌直至冷却。最后，在40℃或更低的温度下添加相D并搅拌。
                              实施例8
                             全天然润肤霜
相A
实施例4的组合物                 5.0
葵花油                          3.0
杏仁油                          5.0
葡萄子油                        4.0
西蒙得木油                      6.0
维E乙酸酯                       2.0
相B
甘油                            3.0
Carbopol5984(3％soln)        3.34
水                              68.11
相C
Phenonip                        0.5
香水(Dragoco)                   0.05
总计                            100
加热相A和相B至80℃，在搅拌状态下将A加入B中，均化1分钟，继续搅拌冷却至室温。在室温下添加相C。
将该润肤霜涂于皮肤时，使用者会感受到一种润滑和柔软的感觉。
                                     实施例9
                                     保湿霜
相A
实施例5的组合物                        4
CeraphylGA-D                        2
Ceraphyl791                         4
Ceraphyl494                         6
Ceraphyl368                         8
相B
甘油                                   3
StabilezeQM(1.25wt％)               10
PVP K 30                               1
水                                     61.5
相C
Phenonip                               0.5
总计                                   100
加热相A和相B至80℃，在搅拌状态下将A加入B中，均化1分钟，继续搅拌冷却至室温。在室温下添加相C。
使用者能感受到一种润滑和柔软的感觉。
                                       实施例10
                                     添加了乙醇酸的护肤霜
组分                                    wt.％
DI水                                    52.80
甘油                                    1.00
Veegum Ultra                            1.00
CMC 99-7HOF                             0.50
Ceraphyl 230                            4.00
Ceraphyl 494                            6.00
Ceraphly 368                            10.00
ProLipid 131                            5.00
DI水                                    2.00
乙醇酸(70％)                            5.70
NaOH(10％sol’n)                        11.00
Germaben II-E                           1.00
总计                                    100.00
步骤：
1.混合相A的CMC和甘油，在室温搅拌的状态下将Veegum喷洒在DI中，继续搅拌加热至70～75℃。在加热过程中将甘油/CMC加入相A中。
2.混合相B，加热至75～80℃，搅拌均匀。
3.在70～75℃将相A搅拌均匀，在75～80℃将相B搅拌均匀，利用均化机将相B加入相A，并停止加热。当原料变稠时，将旋钮转至吹风搅拌进行冷却。
4.在40℃的温度下，通过吹风搅拌添加相C。
5.在35℃的温度下，通过吹风搅拌添加相D。
6.补充失去的水分，冷却至室温。
参考以上实施例，对本发明进行了详细说明，可在上述技术范围内进行变化和修改，当然，这些变化和修改被限定在所附的权利要求中。

Claims (11)

1.一种用于护肤品的乳化剂组合物，以凝胶网状物形态存在，在高达50℃左右的温度下是稳定的，包含3-40wt％高HLB膨胀剂卵磷脂和余量的乳化凝胶剂的掺合物，该凝胶剂的掺合物包括15-30％山俞醇、15-30％甘油一硬脂酸酯、15-40％棕榈酸和硬脂酸的混合物和0-30％马来酸化豆油并且其最终HLB为1.5-5。
2.如权利要求1所述的组合物，其中包含3-21％的卵磷脂、
3.如权利要求1所述的组合物，其中的卵磷脂占4.5-17％。
4.如权利要求1所述的组合物，其中的卵磷脂占6.8-12％。
5.如权利要求1所述的组合物，其中所述凝胶剂的掺合物的最终HLB为1.5-4。
6.如权利要求1所述的组合物，其中所述凝胶剂的掺合物的最终HLB为2-3。
7.如权利要求1所述的组合物，其中包含4.5-17％的卵磷脂，8-27％的山萮醇，18-25％的甘油一硬脂酸酯，18-35％的棕榈酸和硬脂酸，3-10％的月桂醇、肉豆蔻醇和鲸蜡醇，以及12-20％的马来酸化豆油，所述凝胶剂的掺合物的HLB为1.5-4。
8.如权利要求7所述的组合物，其中所述凝胶剂的掺合物的HLB为2-3。
9.一种护肤品，无需添加另外的增湿剂就可产生润滑和柔软的肌肤感觉，其中包含1-10wt％权利要求1所述的乳化剂组合物、水和适当的油性组分，形成水包油系。
10.如权利要求9所述的护肤品，其中包含2-7％所述的乳化剂组合物。
11.如权利要求9所述的护肤品，其中包含3-5％所述的乳化剂组合物，50-80％的水和15-45％的所述油性组分。
CNB988048906A 1997-05-08 1998-03-19 用于护肤品的乳化剂组合物 Expired - Lifetime CN1149966C (zh)

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