CN1125634C - 美白化妆品 - Google Patents
美白化妆品 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN1125634C CN1125634C CN98808102A CN98808102A CN1125634C CN 1125634 C CN1125634 C CN 1125634C CN 98808102 A CN98808102 A CN 98808102A CN 98808102 A CN98808102 A CN 98808102A CN 1125634 C CN1125634 C CN 1125634C
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- skin
- selecting
- acid
- unsaturated fatty
- salt
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired - Lifetime
Links
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 46
- 206010040829 Skin discolouration Diseases 0.000 title claims abstract description 28
- 235000021122 unsaturated fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 49
- 150000004670 unsaturated fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 47
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 34
- 150000003904 phospholipids Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 31
- 239000003963 antioxidant agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 22
- 229920002683 Glycosaminoglycan Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 21
- 230000003078 antioxidant effect Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- 108090000623 proteins and genes Proteins 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- 102000004169 proteins and genes Human genes 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- 239000002502 liposome Substances 0.000 claims description 53
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 42
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 claims description 39
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims description 26
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 claims description 22
- 241001597008 Nomeidae Species 0.000 claims description 20
- IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 1-palmitoyl-2-arachidonoyl-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@H](COP([O-])(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C)OC(=O)CCC\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCC IIZPXYDJLKNOIY-JXPKJXOSSA-N 0.000 claims description 18
- 239000000787 lecithin Substances 0.000 claims description 18
- 235000010445 lecithin Nutrition 0.000 claims description 18
- 229940067606 lecithin Drugs 0.000 claims description 18
- 108010009736 Protein Hydrolysates Proteins 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000007864 aqueous solution Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- 102000002322 Egg Proteins Human genes 0.000 claims description 8
- 108010000912 Egg Proteins Proteins 0.000 claims description 8
- 241000287828 Gallus gallus Species 0.000 claims description 8
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- 210000004681 ovum Anatomy 0.000 claims description 8
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 claims description 7
- OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N Carbon Chemical compound [C] OKTJSMMVPCPJKN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-N Sulfuric acid Chemical compound OS(O)(=O)=O QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000012491 analyte Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 229910052799 carbon Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 6
- KIUKXJAPPMFGSW-DNGZLQJQSA-N (2S,3S,4S,5R,6R)-6-[(2S,3R,4R,5S,6R)-3-Acetamido-2-[(2S,3S,4R,5R,6R)-6-[(2R,3R,4R,5S,6R)-3-acetamido-2,5-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-2-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-5-hydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxane-2-carboxylic acid Chemical compound CC(=O)N[C@H]1[C@H](O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O3)C(O)=O)O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)NC(C)=O)[C@@H](C(O)=O)O1 KIUKXJAPPMFGSW-DNGZLQJQSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
- JLPULHDHAOZNQI-ZTIMHPMXSA-N 1-hexadecanoyl-2-(9Z,12Z-octadecadienoyl)-sn-glycero-3-phosphocholine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OC[C@H](COP([O-])(=O)OCC[N+](C)(C)C)OC(=O)CCCCCCC\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCC JLPULHDHAOZNQI-ZTIMHPMXSA-N 0.000 claims description 5
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- SQDAZGGFXASXDW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 5-bromo-2-(trifluoromethoxy)pyridine Chemical compound FC(F)(F)OC1=CC=C(Br)C=N1 SQDAZGGFXASXDW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
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- QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-L Sulfate Chemical compound [O-]S([O-])(=O)=O QAOWNCQODCNURD-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940051593 dermatan sulfate Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- AVJBPWGFOQAPRH-FWMKGIEWSA-L dermatan sulfate Chemical compound CC(=O)N[C@H]1[C@H](O)O[C@H](CO)[C@H](OS([O-])(=O)=O)[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](C([O-])=O)O1 AVJBPWGFOQAPRH-FWMKGIEWSA-L 0.000 claims description 2
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- 206010008190 Cerebrovascular accident Diseases 0.000 claims 1
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- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 abstract description 6
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- 238000010612 desalination reaction Methods 0.000 description 22
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- 235000006708 antioxidants Nutrition 0.000 description 17
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- 208000012641 Pigmentation disease Diseases 0.000 description 16
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 16
- 230000019612 pigmentation Effects 0.000 description 16
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 15
- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N citric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 15
- VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-monostearoylglycerol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 14
- OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-HZJYTTRNSA-N Linoleic acid Chemical compound CCCCC\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-HZJYTTRNSA-N 0.000 description 14
- 229930003427 Vitamin E Natural products 0.000 description 14
- WIGCFUFOHFEKBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N gamma-tocopherol Natural products CC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC1CCC2C(C)C(O)C(C)C(C)C2O1 WIGCFUFOHFEKBI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 14
- 229960004232 linoleic acid Drugs 0.000 description 14
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 description 14
- 239000011709 vitamin E Substances 0.000 description 14
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- OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-IXWMQOLASA-N linoleic acid Natural products CCCCC\C=C/C\C=C\CCCCCCCC(O)=O OYHQOLUKZRVURQ-IXWMQOLASA-N 0.000 description 13
- 239000004292 methyl p-hydroxybenzoate Substances 0.000 description 13
- 235000010270 methyl p-hydroxybenzoate Nutrition 0.000 description 13
- LXCFILQKKLGQFO-UHFFFAOYSA-N methylparaben Chemical compound COC(=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 LXCFILQKKLGQFO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 13
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- 235000018102 proteins Nutrition 0.000 description 13
- DTOSIQBPPRVQHS-PDBXOOCHSA-N alpha-linolenic acid Chemical compound CC\C=C/C\C=C/C\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O DTOSIQBPPRVQHS-PDBXOOCHSA-N 0.000 description 12
- -1 intacellin Chemical compound 0.000 description 12
- CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N Ascorbic acid Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N 0.000 description 10
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- KXKPYJOVDUMHGS-OSRGNVMNSA-N chondroitin sulfate Chemical compound CC(=O)N[C@H]1[C@H](O)O[C@H](OS(O)(=O)=O)[C@H](O)[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](C(O)=O)O1 KXKPYJOVDUMHGS-OSRGNVMNSA-N 0.000 description 7
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Abstract
提供一种以不饱和脂肪酸或者其衍生物作为活性成分,用较低的浓度,淡化在皮肤生成的色素沉着的效果高、并且安全性也优异的美白化妆品。即本发明是提供一种美白化妆品,含有(A)从碳原子数18~22并且分子构造中的双键数目为2~6的不饱和脂肪酸以及它的衍生物中选择的至少1种;(B)磷脂;(C)抗氧化剂;(D)从蛋白质以及它的水解物中选择的至少1种;(E)从粘多糖以及它的盐中选择的至少1种的以上组分的化妆品。
Description
发明领域
本发明是关于使由紫外线所致的皮肤黑化或者老年斑、雀斑等的皮肤的色素沉着消失、淡化或预防的美白化妆品。
发明背景
皮肤的老化现象之一,是出现所谓的叫作肝斑、老年性色素斑等所谓老年斑的色素沉着异常症。已知这些色素沉着异常症能够被紫外线所恶化,对此的预防可以使用紫外线防御剂等。作为能够减轻已经发病的色素沉着异常症的物质,已知的有使用了将维生素C、胎盘提取物、曲酸、熊果苷、不饱和脂肪酸等作为有效成分的美白化妆品。其中,已知的有以亚油酸(Linoleic acid)为代表的不饱和脂肪酸,对淡化在皮肤生成的色素沉着具有优异的作用(参照日本化妆品技术者会志27卷,415~423页,1993年)。
可是配比了亚油酸等的不饱和脂肪酸的美白化妆品涂布到皮肤上的时候,皮肤的屏障机能妨碍不饱和脂肪酸的透皮吸收,色素沉着的淡化效果不象期待的那么大,为了得到较高的美白效果,必须添加大量的不饱和脂肪酸等,相反地也会引起皮肤麻烦等问题。
另外至今已有为止配比了不饱和脂肪酸、磷脂、以及蛋白质或它的分解物的乳化型化妆品(特开平5-70332号专利)以及皮肤外用剂(特开平5-70334号专利)、或者配比了不饱和脂肪酸类、磷脂、以及维生素E的皮肤治疗以及保护药(特开昭61-40210号专利)等报告,但作为美白化妆品的性能都低。
另一方面,已知脂质体作为载体是有效的,例如以亚油酸为活性成分,对痤疮、粉刺、酒刺、脓疱等有效的脂质体也被公开(特表平7-509001号专利)。可是与此有关系的化妆品稳定性不太好,并且发现其发挥作用时的亚油酸的浓度必须在1重量%以上,在低浓度时难以说显示出充分的效果。
因此本发明的目的,是提供一种以不饱和脂肪酸或者它的衍生物为活性成分,用较低的浓度,淡化皮肤生成的色素沉着的效果高、并且安全性也优异的美白化妆品。
发明概述
本发明者们为了达到上述的目的进行了深入研究的结果,意外地发现与亚油酸等的不饱和脂肪酸一起,配比了磷脂、抗氧化剂、蛋白质或者它的水解物、粘多糖或者它的盐等的美白化妆品,即使是配比了低浓度的不饱和脂肪酸时,也可显示出对色素沉着的淡化具有着优异的效果,安全性也高,至此完成了本发明。
即本发明是提供一种美白化妆品,含有
(A)从碳原子数18~22并且分子构造中的双键数目为2~6的不饱和脂肪酸以及它的衍生物中选择的至少1种;
(B)磷脂;
(C)抗氧化剂;
(D)从蛋白质以及它的水解物中选择的至少1种;
(E)从粘多糖以及它的盐中选择的至少1种。
本发明的美白化妆品优选包含含有上述(A)~(E)的脂质体复合物的物质。
本发明是提供一种包含含有上述成分的复合物(脂质体)的美白化妆品。
附图的简单的说明:
第1图是表示使用了美白化妆品后的天数与淡化效果之间的关系图。
第2图是表示使用了美白化妆品后的经过时间与不饱和脂肪酸的皮肤渗透性之间的关系的图。
实施发明的最佳方案
以下详细地说明本发明。
在本发明的化妆品中使用的(A)不饱和脂肪酸以及它的衍生物,脂肪酸部分碳原子数为18~22并且在分子构造中具有2~6的双键。作为象这个样的脂肪酸来说,可以举出例如:亚油酸(Linoleic acid或者Linolic acid)、α-亚麻酸、γ-亚麻酸、二同-γ-亚麻酸、花生四烯酸、二十碳五烯酸、二十二碳六烯酸等的游离不饱和脂肪酸;亚油酸钠盐、α-亚麻酸钾盐等的不饱和脂肪酸金属盐;亚油酸精氨酸盐、α-亚麻酸赖氨酸盐等的不饱和脂肪酸氨基酸盐;亚油酸三乙醇胺盐、α-亚麻酸单乙醇胺盐等的不饱和脂肪酸胺盐;还有亚油酸乙酯、α-亚麻酸乙酯、亚油酸单甘油酯、α-亚麻酸单甘油酯、亚油酸二甘油酯、α-亚麻酸二甘油酯等的不饱和脂肪酸的单酯以及二酯。在通常的植物油等中包含的不饱和脂肪酸的三甘油酯除外。其中优选的有亚油酸、α-亚麻酸、亚油酸乙酯、α-亚麻酸乙酯、亚油酸单甘油酯、α-亚麻酸单甘油酯,更优选亚油酸。这些不饱和脂肪酸以及它的衍生物可以单独或者2种以上并用。
化妆品中的这些不饱和脂肪酸以及它的衍生物的用量,优选是0.01~0.7重量%,更优选0.03~0.5重量%,最优选0.05~0.3重量%。用量不足上述的范围时有色素沉着的淡化效果不充分的情况出现;另一方面即使超过这个范围效果也没有增大的倾向。
接着,作为(B)磷脂来说,可以举出例如磷脂酰胆碱、磷脂酰丝氨酸、磷脂酰乙醇胺、磷脂酰肌醇、磷脂酰甘油、鞘磷脂、大豆卵磷脂、谷类卵磷脂、绵子油卵磷脂、蛋黄卵磷脂、蛋白卵磷脂等的天然卵磷脂以及氢化卵磷脂、在这些的磷脂中导入聚乙二醇及氨基聚糖类的磷脂衍生物等。这些磷脂可以使用1种或者将2种以上组合起来使用,其中优选大豆卵磷脂、蛋黄卵磷脂、氢化大豆卵磷脂、氢化蛋黄卵磷脂。
化妆品中的磷脂的用量,优选是0.05~10重量%,更优选0.20~2重量%。用量不足上述的范围时有对色素沉着的淡化没有效果的情况出现;另外超过这个范围效果也没有增大的倾向。
作为(C)抗氧化剂来说,可以举出例如:二丁基羟基甲苯、二丁基羟基苯甲醚、维生素E以及它的衍生物、维生素C以及它的衍生物、异抗坏血酸以及它的盐、老鹳草提取物、金缕梅提取物、茶提取物等的植物提取物、没食子酸酯等。其中,优选维生素E、二丁基羟基甲苯、二丁基羟基苯甲醚、没食子酸酯等,特别优选维生素E。这些抗氧化剂可以使用1种或者将2种以上组合起来使用。这些抗氧化剂的用量,优选是0.005~0.5重量%,更优选0.01~0.2重量%。用量比以上少时有对色素沉着的淡化效果不持久的情况出现;另一方面比以上多时有制剂的稳定性降低的情况出现。
作为在本发明被使用的(D)蛋白质以及它的水解物来说,可以举出例如:骨胶原、弹性硬蛋白、角蛋白、酪蛋白、它们的水解物、水解物的盐、水解物的酯、或者经酶处理的物质等。特别优选骨胶原、弹性硬蛋白以及它们的水解物、水解物的盐、水解物的酯;水解的骨胶原、アテロ骨胶原、水解的酪蛋白钠、水解的乙基骨胶原、水溶性骨胶原等。这些蛋白质以及它的水解物可以使用1种或者将2种以上适宜地组合起来使用。这些成分的用量优选0.001~0.5重量%,更优选0.01~0.1重量%。其用量不足以上的范围时有对色素沉着的淡化效果无效的情况出现;另一方面超过以上的范围时其效果也没有增高的倾向。
另外,作为(E)粘多糖来说,可以举出例如硫酸软骨素、透明质酸、硫酸皮肤素、硫酸类肝素、硫酸粘多糖、肝素以及它的衍生物、还有它们的盐类、钠盐钾盐等,但特别优选硫酸软骨素、透明质酸以及它们的钠盐。粘多糖可以是天然的、也可以是通过生物化学的方法等制造出来的物质。这些粘多糖可以单独或者将2种以上混合起来使用。
粘多糖的用量优选0.0005~0.5重量%,更优选0.001~0.1重量%。用量比这个范围少时对色素沉着的淡化效果低;另一方面超过这个范围时有使用感受损的情况出现。
(化妆品的制造)
对于配制本发明的美白化妆品,将上述成分(A)~(E)对应于其化妆品的形态按常法混合处理,可以制备成乳液、乳膏、化妆水、精华素、清洁剂、面膜、洗面剂等的通常的制剂。
另外作为其它的方法,可以预先制备含有上述成分(A)~(E)的脂质体复合物,然后将它与所希望的制剂配合。使用相关的脂质体复合物的时候,以极其低的浓度,即不仅能够得到高的美白效果,而且有效成分的稳定性提高、化妆品的劣化作用降低。
(a)在本发明中,脂质体复合物的第1制造法是形成含有必须成分中的(A)不饱和脂肪酸以及它的衍生物、(B)磷脂、(C)抗氧化剂的脂质体,将此脂质体分散在(D)蛋白质以及它的水解物以及(E)粘多糖的混合溶液中进行混合(以下称为配制方法A)。
(b)另外,脂质体复合物的第2制造法是在含有(D)蛋白质以及它的水解物以及(E)粘多糖的混合溶液中,形成含有(A)不饱和脂肪酸以及它的衍生物、(B)磷脂、(C)抗氧化剂的脂质体,(以下称为配制方法B)。
本发明的美白化妆品的优选形态是预先配制含有上述成分的脂质体复合物,再与所希望的制剂配合形成的化妆品。其中优选将脂质体复合物混合分散在化妆用基质中形成的物质,特别优选的是水溶性的化妆用基质,能够举出例如化妆水、凝胶状化妆品、精华素、水包油型乳剂等。
(脂质体复合物的制备方法)
下面将在本发明化妆品中被使用的脂质体复合物的制备方法例示如下。但是可以用于本发明的脂质体复合物的制备方法并不局限在这些以内。
制备法A
首先象下述1~4那样地进行,得到含有(A)不饱和脂肪酸以及它的衍生物、(B)磷脂、(C)抗氧化剂的脂质体。
可以举出以下等制备方法:
(1)将磷脂、不饱和脂肪酸或者它的盐或酯、抗氧化剂均匀地混合后,用含有pH调节剂、多元醇、糖类等的水溶液进行水化,使其形成含有不饱和脂肪酸或者它的盐或酯的脂质体的方法;
(2)将磷脂、不饱和脂肪酸或者它的盐或酯、抗氧化剂溶解在醇、多元醇等中,用含有pH调节剂、高级醇、糖类等的水溶液进行水化,制备脂质体的方法;
(3)用超声波及法式压机(French press)等,将磷脂、不饱和脂肪酸或者它的盐或酯、抗氧化剂在水中进行复合化,制备脂质体的方法;
(4)将磷脂、不饱和脂肪酸或者它的盐或酯、抗氧化剂混合、溶解在乙醇中,将此乙醇溶液添加到氯化钾水溶液中后,除去乙醇,制备脂质体的方法。
象这样得到的脂质体的分散液根据需要,可以通过过滤器等进行粒子大小的调节;为了提高稳定性,可以加入羧乙烯基聚合物及羧甲基纤维素、羟乙基纤维素、黄原胶、聚(氧乙烯)-聚(氧丙烯)嵌段聚合物等的高分子物质及柠檬酸、柠檬酸盐、磷酸、磷酸盐、三乙醇胺、氢氧化钾、氢氧化钠、乳酸、乳酸盐等的pH调节剂,甘油、丙二醇、丁二醇等多元醇,藻酸盐、藻酸酯等的多糖类,海藻糖、葡萄糖、山梨糖醇、蔗糖等的糖类,胆固醇等。
形成脂质体的不饱和脂肪酸或者它的盐或酯与磷脂的摩尔比优选1∶5~2∶1的范围,特别是摩尔比在1∶2~3∶2之间,美白效果变高。
(脂质体复合物的制备)
通过上述的几种方法制备出的脂质体分散液分散在含有蛋白质或者它的分解物和粘多糖的水溶液中,即得含有磷脂、不饱和脂肪酸或者它的盐或酯、抗氧化剂、蛋白质以及粘多糖的脂质体复合物。
制备法B
脂质体复合物的第2制备方法,是象下述1~3那样,在含有成分(D)(E)的混合溶液中,形成含有成分(A)(B)(C)的脂质体。
(1)磷脂、不饱和脂肪酸或者它的盐或酯、抗氧化剂均匀地混合后,将此混合液分散在含有蛋白质或它的分解物和粘多糖的水溶液中,制备成脂质体复合物。此时可以根据需要添加pH调节剂、多元醇、糖类等水溶液。
(2)磷脂、不饱和脂肪酸或者它的盐或酯、抗氧化剂溶解在醇、多元醇等中,将此混合液在含有蛋白质或它的分解物和粘多糖的水溶液中进行水和,制备成脂质体复合物。水和的时候可以添加pH调节剂。
(3)用超声波及法式压机等,将磷脂、不饱和脂肪酸或者它的盐或酯、抗氧化剂在含有蛋白质或它的分解物和粘多糖的水溶液中进行复合化,制备成脂质体复合物。此时可以根据需要添加pH调节剂、多元醇、糖类等水溶液。
按上述的制备法B(1)~(3)进行得到的脂质体复合物分散液根据需要,可以通过过滤器等进行粒子大小的调节;为了提高稳定性,可以加入羧乙烯基聚合物及羧甲基纤维素、羟乙基纤维素、黄原胶、聚(氧乙烯)-聚(氧丙烯)嵌段聚合物等的高分子物质及柠檬酸、柠檬酸盐、磷酸、磷酸盐、三乙醇胺、氢氧化钾、氢氧化钠、乳酸、乳酸盐等的pH调节剂,甘油、丙二醇、丁二醇等多元醇,藻酸盐、藻酸酯等的多糖类,海藻糖、葡萄糖、山梨糖醇、蔗糖等的糖类,胆固醇等。形成脂质体的不饱和脂肪酸或者它的盐或酯与磷脂的摩尔比优选1∶5~2∶1的范围,特别是摩尔比在1∶2~3∶2之间,美白效果增高。
象这样得到的美白化妆品,与原来的相比,即使是只含有与原先有显著性差别的低浓度的不饱和脂肪酸,其淡化在皮肤生成的色素沉着的效果高,安全性也优异。
(其他的配合成分)
另外,对于本发明的美白化妆品,根据需要,在不损坏本发明的效果的范围内,可以适当地配合抗炎剂、紫外线吸收剂或者紫外线发散剂、本发明的必须成分(A)以外的美白剂、油剂、表面活性剂、保湿剂、动物以及植物提取物、pH调节剂、着色剂、香料、防腐剂、螯合剂等。
作为抗炎剂,可以举出例如:尿囊素、ε-氨基己酸、甘草次酸、甘草酸、它的盐以及它的衍生物、感光素301号、感光素401号、盐酸苯海拉明、水溶性天蓝烃(1,4-二甲基-7-异丙基天蓝烃-3-磺酸盐)腺苷-磷酸、紫草根提取物、当归提取物、艾蒿提取物、地输提取物等,可以配合其中的1种或者2种以上。这些抗炎剂的用量优选0.01~5重量%。
作为紫外线吸收剂,可以举出例如:咪唑丙烯酸、咪唑丙烯酸乙酯、氧苯酮、氧苯酮磺酸、四羟基二苯甲酮、二羟基二甲氧基二苯甲酮磺酸钠、二羟基二甲氧基二苯甲酮、二羟基二苯甲酮、对甲氧肉桂酸乙氧乙酯、二异丙基肉桂酸甲酯、甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯、对氨基苯甲酸甘油酯、对二甲基氨基苯甲酰胺、对二甲基氨基苯甲酸辛酯、对氨基苯甲酸、对氨基苯甲酸乙酯、丁基甲氧基苯甲酰甲烷等;另外作为紫外线发散剂,可以举出微粒型氧化钛、微粒型氧化锌、微粒型氧化铁、表面用硅酮处理过的上述紫外线发散剂等,可以配合其中的1种或者2种以上。这些紫外线吸收剂或者发散剂的用量可以为0.05~25重量%。
另外也可以并用本发明必须成分(A)以外的美白剂,可以配合使用例如:抗坏血酸以及它的盐或酯、胎盘提取物、曲酸以及它的盐或酯、氨基葡糖酸以及它的盐或酯、壬二酸以及它的盐或酯、视黄醇以及它的盐或酯、吡哆醇以及它的盐或酯、止血环酸以及它的盐或酯、熊果苷、感光素、硫磺、4-羟基肉桂酸、人参提取物、甘草提取物等中的1种或者2种以上,其用量可以达到0.1~10.0重量%。
实施例
下面举出实施例以及比较例,进一步详细地说明本发明。但本发明不仅仅局限于这些实施例,另外,如果没有特别说明,[%]是表示重量%。
[实施例1~9以及比较例1~17]
将表示在表1以及表2的各用量的成分,按下面的制备方法进行处理,制备美白化妆品,进行评价。制备方法以及评价方法如下所示。
<化妆品的制备法>
按下面的制备方法按表示在表1以及表2的成分组成,制备出实施例1~9以及比较例1~17的化妆品,进行评价。
(实施例1、2、6以及比较例1~17的制备)
将骨胶原、硫酸软骨素钠溶解于精制水中,将卵磷脂或者氢化卵磷脂和不饱和脂肪酸、维生素E混合于其中,加入1,3-丁二醇、羧乙烯聚合物、氢氧化钾、对羟基苯甲酸甲酯,搅拌混合,制备成精华素。
(实施例3、5、9的制备)[按制备方法B制成脂质体复合物]
将卵磷脂或者氢化卵磷脂、不饱和脂肪酸、维生素E均匀地混合在1,3-丁二醇中。接着将此混合液加到溶解了骨胶原、软骨素硫酸钠的精制水的溶液中,混合、搅拌,用法式压机进行处理,形成脂质体复合物。将此脂质体复合物加入到在精制水中溶解了1,3-丁二醇、羧乙烯聚合物、氢氧化钾、对羟基苯甲酸甲酯后形成的溶液中,搅拌混合,制备成精华素。
(实施例4、7、8的制备)[按制备方法A制成脂质体复合物]
将卵磷脂或者氢化卵磷脂、不饱和脂肪酸、维生素E溶解于二氯甲烷等的溶媒中,均匀地混合后,除去溶媒,将加入精制水混合搅拌后的溶液用法式压机进行处理,使其形成脂质体。将此脂质体加到溶解了骨胶原、硫酸软骨素钠的精制水的溶液中。再将此混合物加入到在精制水中溶解了1,3-丁二醇、羧乙烯基聚合物、氢氧化钾、对羟基苯甲酸甲酯后形成的物质中,搅拌混合,制备成精华素。
<评价方法>
1.色素沉着淡化试验
将英国种茶色土拨鼠的背部剃毛,1周2次、连续2周照射紫外线(UVB强度:1J/cm2),再放置1周后,得到稳定的色素沉着部位。然后在各自的色素沉着部位,用在实施例以及比较例得到的受试品,1日1次、连续4周进行累计涂布。各周初按照在以下表示的判定标准用肉眼判定色素沉着度,评价色素沉着淡化作用。另外,其中的一部分的实验,使用色度计测定色素沉着部位的光亮度(L)。
(色素沉着度的判定标准)
-:无色素沉着淡化作用
±:稍有色素沉着淡化作用
+:有中等强度的色素沉着淡化作用
++:有较强的色素沉着淡化作用
2.皮肤透过性评价试验
对实施例4以及比较例4、11,评价了亚油酸的皮肤透过性。摘出无毛小鼠的背部皮肤,安装在用生理食盐水作存贮液的扩散池中。在37℃一边孵化一边将受试品0.5ml涂布在皮肤上,经时提取皮肤中的亚油酸,再从涂布后的受试品中回收残留的亚油酸,两者通过高速液相色谱定量。将包含在涂布后的受试品中的亚油酸作为100,计算出对于各时间点的亚油酸的皮肤通过率。
从表1~2以及图1中可知,含有作为必须成分的不饱和脂肪酸或它的衍生物、磷脂、抗氧化剂、蛋白质或它的水解物、粘多糖的实施例,全部具有显著的色素沉着淡化作用,并且也没有在皮肤上引起刺激性等的问题。
与此相比在比较例来说,不饱和脂肪酸或它的衍生物的浓度不超过1重量%的话就不出现色素沉着淡化作用。并且本发明的必须成分的几个中缺一个,化妆品色素沉着淡化作用即减弱。
在图2的不饱和脂肪酸向皮肤的透过性,含有脂质体复合物的实施例4与比较例4、11相比高5倍以上,对此可以认为显示出了高的色素沉着淡化作用。
[实施例10](化妆水)
成分 用量(%)
γ-亚麻酸 0.1
甘油 5.0
大豆卵磷脂 0.35
维生素E 0.01
水解弹性硬蛋白液 1.0
透明质酸钠 0.05
对羟基苯甲酸甲酯 0.05
乙醇 8.0
柠檬酸 0.05
柠檬酸钠 0.07
香料 0.05
精制水 余量
合计 100.0
(制法)
将水解弹性硬蛋白液、透明质酸钠溶解于精制水中。另外将γ-亚麻酸和大豆卵磷脂、维生素E混合,加到上述的水溶液中,再加甘油、柠檬酸、柠檬酸钠、乙醇、对羟基苯甲酸甲酯、香料,搅拌均匀,得到化妆水。
[实施例11](乳脂)
成分 用量(%)
(A)
谷类卵磷脂 0.40
二十碳五烯酸 0.20
异抗坏血酸 0.02
精制水 10.00
(B)
硫酸软骨素钠 0.005
水解酪蛋白钠 0.02
精制水 5.00
(C)
甘油 5.00
dl-吡咯烷酮羧酸 0.10
对羟基苯甲酸甲酯 0.05
氢氧化钠 适量(调节pH)
精制水 余量
十甘油单硬脂酸酯 1.00
(D)
硬脂酸 1.00
十六烷醇 2.00
甘油单硬脂酸酯 2.00
三十碳六烯 3.00
合计 100.0
(制法)
将混合好的A相与均匀混合于混合溶解后的B相中。C相、D相分别加热溶解后,将C相混合到D相中,在乳匀机中进行乳化。然后通过将混合好的A相与其混合搅拌、冷却,得到乳脂(pH7.0)。
[实施例12](精华素)
成分 用量(%)
(A)
大豆卵磷脂 0.40
亚油酸 0.10
维生素E 0.04
丙二醇 2.00
(B)
硫酸软骨素钠 0.01
对羟基苯甲酸甲酯 0.05
阿太罗(アテロ)骨胶原 0.05
丙二醇 1.00
精制水 10.00
(C)
精制水 余量
丙二醇 5.00
羧乙烯聚合物 0.20
水溶性胎盘提取物 0.10
甘草酸钾 0.10
氢氧化钠 适量(调节pH)
合计 100.00
(制法)
将混合好的A相和均匀地混合溶解后的B相在高压匀浆机中进行混合,制备脂质体复合物,再通过将此与C相混合搅拌,得到精华素(pH6.6)。
[实施例13](面膜)
成分 用量(%)
(A)
1,3-丁二醇 7.00
二氧化钛 5.00
滑石粉 5.00
硫酸软骨素 0.015
酪蛋白 0.04
精制水 适量
对羟基苯甲酸甲酯 0.10
柠檬酸钠 0.20
聚乙烯醇 1.00
羟乙基纤维素 13.00
(B)
磷脂酰胆碱 0.60
α-亚麻酸 0.70
金缕梅提取物 0.005
精制水 10.00
合计 100.0
(制法)
将混合好的A相均匀地加热混合。在冷却的过程中将混合了的B相倒入A相混合、搅拌,得到面膜。
[实施例14](乳剂面膜)
成分 用量(%)
(A)
对羟基苯甲酸甲酯 0.20
甘油 8.00
精制水 余量
三乙醇胺 适量(调节pH)
POE(20)山梨糖醇脂肪酸酯 2.00
(B)
单硬脂酸甘油酯 3.00
自乳化型单硬脂酸甘油酯 4.00
硬脂酸 5.00
液体石蜡 7.00
三辛酸甘油酯 4.00
香料 0.10
(C)
蛋黄卵磷脂 0.60
花生四烯酸 0.10
维生素E 0.005
精制水 10.00
(D)
透明质酸 0.005
水解骨胶原 0.02
精制水 5.00
合计 100.0
(制法)
将A相、B相分别均匀地加热溶解后,将A相混合到B相中,均匀地搅拌、混合。混合后的C相同D相混合,将其在B相冷却的过程中混合搅拌,得到乳剂面膜。(pH6.8)
[实施例15](乳液)
成分 用量(%)
(A)
1,3-丁二醇 5.00
精制水 余量
对羟基苯甲酸甲酯 0.30
硬脂酸十甘油酯 2.00
羧乙烯聚合物 0.10
氢氧化钾 适量(调节pH)
柠檬酸 0.50
(B)
液体石蜡 5.00
硬脂酸 1.00
单硬脂酸甘油酯 2.00
自乳化型单硬脂酸甘油酯 1.00
角鲨烷 3.00
(C)
磷脂乙醇胺 0.06
磷脂丝氨酸 0.081
鞘磷脂 0.108
亚油酸乙酯 0.20
EDTA 0.05
精制水 10.00
(D)
硫酸软骨素钠 0.05
角蛋白 0.02
精制水 5.00
合计 100.0
(制法)
将A相、B相分别加热,均匀地混合搅拌后,将A相加到B相中,混合、搅拌。C相用法式压机形成脂质体,用过滤器调节粒径后加到D相中,制备成脂质体复合物。在B相冷却的过程中,加入此脂质体复合物,成为乳液(pH6.9)。
[实施例16](洗面剂)
成分 用量(%)
(A)
月桂酸 6.00
肉豆蔻酸 10.00
硬脂酸 20.00
浓甘油 10.00
聚乙二醇400 10.00
聚乙二醇6000 10.00
二硬脂酸聚乙二醇(150EO) 5.00
精制水 余量
氢氧化钾 适量(调节pH)
对羟基苯甲酸甲酯 0.20
依地酸钠 0.10
(B)
卵磷脂 0.40
维生素E 0.10
α-亚麻酸乙酯 0.20
精制水 10.00
(C)
硫酸软骨素钠 0.01
水分解骨胶原 0.03
精制水 5.00
合计 100.00
(制法)
将A相加热混合溶解。B相、C相分别均匀混合后,将B相加到C相中进行混合。在冷却A相的过程中将C相加入,进行混合、搅拌,将此制成洗面剂。(pH9.6)
[实施例17](乳剂面膜)
成分 用量(%)
(A)
对羟基苯甲酸甲酯 0.20
甘油 8.00
精制水 余量
三乙醇胺 适量(调节pH)
POE(20)山梨糖醇脂肪酸酯 2.00
(B)
单硬脂酸甘油酯 3.00
自乳化型单硬脂酸甘油酯 4.00
单硬脂酸 5.00
液体石蜡 7.00
三辛酸甘油酯 4.00
香料 0.10
(C)
蛋黄卵磷脂 0.60
亚油酸单甘油酯 0.10
维生素E 0.005
氢氧化钠 适量(调节pH)
1,3-丁二醇 1.00
精制水 10.00
(D)
透明质酸 0.005
水分解骨胶原 0.02
精制水 5.00
合计 100.0
(制法)
将A相、B相分别均匀地加热溶解后,将A相混合到B相中,均匀地搅拌、混合。将上述成分蛋黄卵磷脂、亚油酸单甘油酯、维生素E均匀地混合后,用含有氢氧化钠、1,3-丁二醇的水溶液(pH6)进行水和化,使其形成脂质体(C相)。将此C相同D相混合,其混合物在B相的冷却过程中加入进行混合搅拌,制成乳剂面膜(pH6.8)
[实施例18](精华素)
成分 用量(%)
(A)
蛋黄卵磷脂 0.80
二十二碳六烯酸 0.40
维生素C 0.04
精制水 10.00
(B)
硫酸软骨素 0.01
对羟基苯甲酸甲酯 0.05
水分解骨胶原乙酯 0.05
精制水 余量
丙二醇 5.00
羧乙烯聚合物 0.20
氢氧化钾 适量(调节pH)
合计 100.00
(制法)
将上述成分蛋黄卵磷脂、二十二碳六烯酸、维生素C在水中进行混合,用超声波使其形成脂质体(A相)。通过将此A相加入到均匀地混合溶解后的B相中进行混合搅拌,得到精华素(pH6.6)。
对于这些实施例10~18,也象实施例1~9一样具有优异的色素沉着淡化效果。
工业上的应用前景
本发明的美白化妆品含有的不饱和脂肪酸,以低浓度使用时,其刺激性少、安全性高、并且淡化色素沉着的效果非常优异。
Claims (8)
1.一种美白化妆品,其含有下述成分,
(A)从碳原子数18~22并且分子构造中的双键数目为2~6的不饱和脂肪酸以及它的衍生物中选择的至少1种、
(B)磷脂、
(C)抗氧化剂、
(D)从蛋白质以及它的水解物中选择的至少1种、且
(E)从粘多糖以及它的盐中选择的至少1种。
2.一种美白化妆品,其含有包含下述成分的脂质体复合物,
(A)从碳原子数18~22并且分子构造中的双键数目为2~6的不饱和脂肪酸以及它的衍生物中选择的至少1种、
(B)磷脂、
(C)抗氧化剂、
(D)从蛋白质以及它的水解物中选择的至少1种、且
(E)从粘多糖以及它的盐中选择的至少1种。
3.权利要求第1项或者第2项记载的美白化妆品,其中磷脂是从大豆卵磷脂、蛋黄卵磷脂、氢化大豆卵磷脂以及氢化蛋黄卵磷脂中选择的至少1种磷脂。
4.权利要求第1项~第3项的任何1项记载的美白化妆品,其中蛋白质以及它的分解物是从骨胶原、弹性硬蛋白以及它们的水解物、水解物的盐、以及水解物的酯中选择的至少1种。
5.权利要求第1项~第4项的任何1项记载的美白化妆品,其中粘多糖是从硫酸软骨素、透明质酸、硫酸皮肤素、硫酸类肝素、硫酸粘多糖、肝素和它的衍生物以及它们的盐类中选择的至少1种粘多糖。
6.权利要求第1项~第5项的任何1项记载的美白化妆品,其中不饱和脂肪酸以及它的衍生物的用量占化妆品总量的0.01~0.7重量%。
7.权利要求第2项~第6项的任何1项记载的美白化妆品,其中脂质体复合物是通过如下方法制得的,将
(A)从碳原子数18~22并且分子构造中的双键数目为2~6的不饱和脂肪酸以及它的衍生物中选择的至少1种、
(B)磷脂、以及
(C)抗氧化剂进行混合,在水中形成脂质体,将该脂质体和含有
(D)从蛋白质以及它的水解物中选择的至少1种、以及
(E)从粘多糖以及它的盐中选择的至少1种的水溶液进行混合得到脂质体复合物。
8.权利要求第2项~第6项的任何1项记载的美白化妆品,其中脂质体复合物是通过下述方法制得的,在含有
(D)从蛋白质以及它的水解物中选择的至少1种、以及
(E)从粘多糖以及它的盐中选择的至少1种的水溶液中,形成含有
(A)从碳原子数18~22并且分子构造中的双键数目为2~6的不饱和脂肪酸以及它的衍生物中选择的至少1种、
(B)磷脂、以及
(C)抗氧化剂成分的脂质体,得到脂质体复合物。
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
JP169590/1997 | 1997-06-10 | ||
JP16959097A JP3687277B2 (ja) | 1997-06-10 | 1997-06-10 | 美白化粧料 |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
CN1266367A CN1266367A (zh) | 2000-09-13 |
CN1125634C true CN1125634C (zh) | 2003-10-29 |
Family
ID=15889316
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
CN98808102A Expired - Lifetime CN1125634C (zh) | 1997-06-10 | 1998-06-09 | 美白化妆品 |
Country Status (9)
Country | Link |
---|---|
US (1) | US6669932B2 (zh) |
EP (1) | EP0992236B1 (zh) |
JP (1) | JP3687277B2 (zh) |
KR (1) | KR100554860B1 (zh) |
CN (1) | CN1125634C (zh) |
DE (1) | DE69812948T2 (zh) |
HK (1) | HK1026376A1 (zh) |
TW (1) | TW381028B (zh) |
WO (1) | WO1998056338A1 (zh) |
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- 1997-06-10 JP JP16959097A patent/JP3687277B2/ja not_active Expired - Lifetime
-
1998
- 1998-06-09 WO PCT/JP1998/002548 patent/WO1998056338A1/ja active IP Right Grant
- 1998-06-09 KR KR1019997011602A patent/KR100554860B1/ko not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1998-06-09 US US09/445,562 patent/US6669932B2/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1998-06-09 TW TW087109143A patent/TW381028B/zh not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1998-06-09 CN CN98808102A patent/CN1125634C/zh not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1998-06-09 EP EP98923189A patent/EP0992236B1/en not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1998-06-09 DE DE69812948T patent/DE69812948T2/de not_active Expired - Lifetime
-
2000
- 2000-09-15 HK HK00105843A patent/HK1026376A1/xx not_active IP Right Cessation
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
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KR20010013593A (ko) | 2001-02-26 |
CN1266367A (zh) | 2000-09-13 |
US6669932B2 (en) | 2003-12-30 |
EP0992236B1 (en) | 2003-04-02 |
JPH111423A (ja) | 1999-01-06 |
HK1026376A1 (en) | 2000-12-15 |
KR100554860B1 (ko) | 2006-02-24 |
EP0992236A1 (en) | 2000-04-12 |
DE69812948D1 (de) | 2003-05-08 |
EP0992236A4 (en) | 2002-01-09 |
US20030103916A1 (en) | 2003-06-05 |
DE69812948T2 (de) | 2003-11-13 |
TW381028B (en) | 2000-02-01 |
WO1998056338A1 (fr) | 1998-12-17 |
JP3687277B2 (ja) | 2005-08-24 |
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