CN110952340A - 一种具有拉伸扭曲变色效果的新型面料及其生产工艺 - Google Patents

一种具有拉伸扭曲变色效果的新型面料及其生产工艺 Download PDF

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CN110952340A
CN110952340A CN201911251238.0A CN201911251238A CN110952340A CN 110952340 A CN110952340 A CN 110952340A CN 201911251238 A CN201911251238 A CN 201911251238A CN 110952340 A CN110952340 A CN 110952340A
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张龙鑫
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Fujian Ruixing Textile Technology Co Ltd
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    • D06N3/142Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof with macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. gelatine proteins with polyurethanes mixture of polyurethanes with other resins in the same layer
    • D06N3/143Artificial leather, oilcloth or other material obtained by covering fibrous webs with macromolecular material, e.g. resins, rubber or derivatives thereof with macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. gelatine proteins with polyurethanes mixture of polyurethanes with other resins in the same layer with polyurethanes and other polycondensation or polyaddition products, e.g. aminoplast
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    • D06N2211/00Specially adapted uses
    • D06N2211/10Clothing

Abstract

本发明公开了一种具有拉伸扭曲变色效果的新型面料,包括底布,所述底布的外表面上涂有变色树脂层和水性聚碳酸酯型聚氨酯层,生产工艺包括利用凹版印刷水性聚氨酯粘合剂对底布的布纹填平,并烘干;对填平的底布进行压光处理;对压光处理的底布涂变色树脂层,并低温烘干;对涂有变色树脂层的底布涂水性聚碳酸酯型聚氨酯,并高温烘干;对两层涂布层的底布进行打卷静置,待各涂布层与底布完全交联固化;对固化的成品进行水洗和无张力烘干。本发明的面料在承受拉伸或扭曲等外力作用时,面料的受力部位会产生变色效应,并且随着面料形变梯度的变化,颜色呈现由浅到深的渐变特征,在外力消除后,面料又可以恢复到原来的颜色。

Description

一种具有拉伸扭曲变色效果的新型面料及其生产工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及面料技术领域,具体涉及一种具有拉伸扭曲变色效果的新型面料及其生产工艺。
背景技术
随着人们对服装产品风格及种类要求的提高,传统的服装面料产品已不能满足人们日益提高的审美要求。而开发一些具有极强艺术表现力和时尚气息的服装面料产品是摆在面料市场中的一个大好时机。
传统的面料造型以及形式单一,无法满足社会需求。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种具有拉伸扭曲变色效果的新型面料及其生产工艺,该工艺在底布上添加变色树脂和水性聚碳酸酯型聚氨酯,使得面料在拉伸扭曲下变色,改变面料的单一性。
为实现上述目的,本发明提供如下技术方案:
一种具有拉伸扭曲变色效果的新型面料,包括底布,所述底布的外表面上涂有变色树脂层和水性聚碳酸酯型聚氨酯层,所述变色树脂层是由水性聚氨酯树脂、水性有机色浆、变色腊粉、分散剂、有机硅流平剂、聚醚型消泡剂和增稠剂混合而成,所述水性聚碳酸酯型聚氨酯层是由水性聚碳酸酯型聚氨酯树脂、氮丙啶类交联剂、有机硅流平剂、聚醚型消泡剂、增稠剂混合而成。
进一步方案,所述水性聚氨酯树脂、水性有机色浆、变色腊粉、分散剂、有机硅流平剂、聚醚型消泡剂和增稠剂的质量比为1:(0.03-0.05):(0.03-0.05):(0.01-0.015):(0.005-0.01):(0.002-0.005):(0.01-0.05),所述水性聚碳酸酯型聚氨酯树脂、氮丙啶类交联剂、有机硅流平剂、聚醚型消泡剂、增稠剂的质量比为1:0.0025:(0.005-0.01):(0.002-0.005):(0.01-0.05)。
本发明的另外一个目的在于提供一种具有拉伸扭曲变色效果的新型面料的生产工艺,包括以下步骤:
(1)利用凹版印刷水性粘合剂对底布的布纹填平,并烘干;
(2)对填平的底布进行压光处理;
(3)对压光处理的底布涂变色树脂层,并低温烘干;
(4)对涂有变色树脂层的底布涂水性聚碳酸酯型聚氨酯,并高温烘干;
(5)对两层涂布层的底布进行打卷静置,待各涂布层与底布完全交联固化,进行水洗;
(6)对固化的成品进行水洗和无张力烘干。
进一步方案,所述步骤(1)中烘干程度为70%-80%,其中烘干温度为70-80℃,烘干时间为18-23s。
进一步方案,所述步骤(1)中水性聚氨酯粘合剂是由水性聚氨酯耐寒底涂胶、去离子水、水性无机色浆、氮丙啶类交联剂、分散剂、聚醚型消泡剂和增稠剂搅拌混合而成,其质量比为1:(0.2-0.3):(0.05-0.06):0.0025:(0.01-0.015):(0.002-0.005):(0.01-0.05)。
进一步方案,所述步骤(2)中压光处理温度为170-190°。
进一步方案,所述步骤(3)中变色树脂层采用间隙涂层的方式进行涂层,其中涂布间隙为0.35-0.45mm,涂布张力为10-13kgf,烘干温度80-85℃,烘干时间为0.8-1min。
进一步方案,所述步骤(4)中的烘干温度为150-160℃,热处理时间为0.8-1.2min。
进一步方案,所述步骤(5)中打卷静置时间为24小时以上。
进一步方案,所述步骤(6)中水洗温度为15-25℃,无张力烘干温度为100-120℃。
该具有拉伸扭曲变色效果的新型面料及其生产工艺,生产出的面料成型后,当其在承受拉伸或扭曲等外力作用时,面料的受力部位会产生变色效应,并且随着面料形变梯度的变化,颜色呈现由浅到深的渐变特征,在外力消除后,面料又可以恢复到原来的颜色。
附图说明
图1为本发明面料的生产工艺流程示意图。
具体实施方式
下面将结合本发明实施例中的附图,对本发明实施例中的技术方案进行清楚、完整地描述,显然,所描述的实施例仅仅是本发明一部分实施例,而不是全部的实施例。基于本发明中的实施例,本领域普通技术人员在没有做出创造性劳动前提下所获得的所有其他实施例,都属于本发明保护的范围。
一种具有拉伸扭曲变色效果的新型面料,包括底布,底布的外表面上涂有变色树脂层和水性聚碳酸酯型聚氨酯层,变色树脂层是由水性聚氨酯树脂、水性有机色浆、变色腊粉、分散剂、有机硅流平剂、聚醚型消泡剂和增稠剂混合而成,水性聚碳酸酯型聚氨酯层是由水性聚碳酸酯型聚氨酯树脂、氮丙啶类交联剂、有机硅流平剂、聚醚型消泡剂、增稠剂混合而成。
本发明以底布为棉梭织面料,整体面料氨纶含量3-5%,经向不弹纬向微弹,纬纱采用氨纶包芯纱。其中氨纶含量不宜过高,面料的弹性过大时,不利于生产加工过程的稳定性,且弹性过大,超过涂层树脂材料的断裂伸长率时,在形变过大的情况下会对效应涂层产生不可恢复的损伤。
前段表面处理:
将水性聚氨酯耐寒底涂胶、去离子水、水性无机色浆、氮丙啶类交联剂、分散剂、聚醚型消泡剂和增稠剂搅拌按照质量比为1:0.2:0.05:0.0025:0.01:0.002:0.01进行配比,其中水性聚氨酯耐寒底涂胶为辽宁丹东恒星精细化工生产的产品,氮丙啶类交联剂为上海竑穗化工生产的产品,其余材料均为常规市售产品。
浆料配制过程中,需先将去离子水加入水性聚氨酯耐寒底涂胶中,搅拌均匀,再依次添加配比好的水性无机色浆、氮丙啶类交联剂、分散剂、聚醚型消泡剂进行搅拌,先低速后高速,搅拌均匀后,最后加入增稠剂,高速搅拌增稠至所需粘度,该浆料的粘度控制在5000cps即可,制成水性聚氨酯粘合剂,用100目过滤网过滤好备用。
凹版印刷的凹版网目选用100目及80目的满版进行双版同步套印,版辊设置顺序为100目在前,80目在后,选择压印辊的硬度在55°,车速50m/min,循环风机风速32Hz,水性聚氨酯粘合剂进行打底,热处理时间20s后,将底布取出,在烘干温度75℃时,将其低温烘干程度至70%,取出,实现对底布底纹的填平;
其中水性聚氨酯粘合剂与棉纤维具有较高的亲和性,可以有效的填充纱线间的纹路空隙,且在经历后续的烘培后具有较高的粘结牢度。
采用油压供压方式,在压力5kgf、车速65m/min、压光温度为180℃对填平的底布进行压光处理,含有水性聚氨酯粘合剂的底布在压光处理时,底布含水率在30%左右,由于水性聚氨酯在带有适当含潮率的情况下具有一定可塑性,表面轻度软化,既可以保证不粘辊,同时能够被压烫出一个较为平整的平面,压光过程中作业张力控制在9kgf,张力太大容易拉伸变形,布面弯曲,张力太小则容易导致皱布、卷边等问题,使布面压不平整;
变色处理:
将水性聚氨酯树脂、水性有机色浆、变色腊粉、分散剂、有机硅流平剂、聚醚型消泡剂和增稠剂按照质量比为1:0.03:0.03:0.01:0.005:0.002:0.01进行配比,其中水性聚氨酯树脂为奥斯丹化工生产的产品,变色腊粉为上海焦耳蜡业生产的产品,其余材料均为常规市售产品。
浆料配制过程中,将配比好的水性有机色浆、变色腊粉、分散剂、有机硅流平剂、聚醚型消泡剂依次加入水性聚氨酯树脂中搅拌,先低速后高速,搅拌均匀后,加入增稠剂高速搅拌至所需粘度,然后加入研磨机中研磨1.5小时,将浆料的粘度控制在12000cps即可,制成变色树脂,用100目过滤网过滤好备用。
选用3.0mm的逗号刀,涂布间隙0.35mm,涂布张力控制在11kgf,车速22m/min,循环风机风速17Hz,综合热处理时间1min左右,对压光处理的底布涂变色树脂,变色树脂采用间隙涂层的方式进行涂层,能够保证涂层的厚度均匀稳定,且变色树脂中增添有变色蜡粉,用于控制面料变色程度的强弱和变色风格的粗犷细腻程度,然后在83℃下进行烘干;
将水性聚碳酸酯型聚氨酯树脂、氮丙啶类交联剂、有机硅流平剂、聚醚型消泡剂、增稠剂按照质量比为1:0.0025:0.005:0.002:0.01进行配比,其中水性聚碳酸酯型聚氨酯树脂为德国拜耳化工生产的产品,氮丙啶类交联剂为上海竑穗化工生产的产品,其余材料均为常规市售产品。
浆料配制过程中,将氮丙啶类交联剂、有机硅流平剂、聚醚型消泡剂按照比例依次加入水性聚碳酸酯型聚氨酯树脂中搅拌,先低速后高速,搅拌均匀后,加入增稠剂高速搅拌至所需粘度,该浆料的粘度控制在300cps即可,制成水性聚碳酸酯型聚氨酯,用200目过滤网过滤好备用。
生产中该工序选用200目及175目的满版进行双版同步套印,版辊设置顺序为200目在前,175目在后,选择压印辊的硬度在75°,车速22m/min,循环风机风速32Hz,综合热处理时间1min左右,对涂有变色树脂层的底布涂水性聚碳酸酯型聚氨酯,在烘干温度150℃时,进行高温烘干,水性聚碳酸酯型聚氨酯材料,其成膜光泽高,透明性好,耐磨耐刮性非常好,具有较高的伸长率和拉伸强度,可对产品的表面起到较好的保护作用又不影响变色效果;
成品处理:
对两层涂布层的底布进行打卷静置,待各涂布层与底布完全交联固化,进行水洗,打卷静置26h后,取出,为了不破坏各涂布层之间以及它们与底布之间的粘结牢度,保证面料不产生不可恢复的损伤;
在20℃的水温下对固化的成品进行水洗,在110℃的温度下对水洗后的成品进行无张力烘干即可,另外为改善面料手感可适量添加柔软及平滑类手感助剂。水洗及无张力烘干的目的是为了让面料产生适当的缩水,在承受外力时更容易产生形变,形成较为自然的变色效果和较为柔和的表面亮度
以上详细描述了本发明的较佳具体实施例。应当理解,本领域的普通技术人员无需创造性劳动就可以根据本发明的构思作出诸多修改和变化。因此,凡本技术领域中技术人员依本发明的构思在现有技术的基础上通过逻辑分析、推理或者有限的实验可以得到的技术方案,皆应在由权利要求书所确定的保护范围内。

Claims (10)

1.一种具有拉伸扭曲变色效果的新型面料,包括底布,其特征在于:所述底布的外表面上涂有变色树脂层和水性聚碳酸酯型聚氨酯层,所述变色树脂层是由水性聚氨酯树脂、水性有机色浆、变色腊粉、分散剂、有机硅流平剂、聚醚型消泡剂和增稠剂混合而成,所述水性聚碳酸酯型聚氨酯层是由水性聚碳酸酯型聚氨酯树脂、氮丙啶类交联剂、有机硅流平剂、聚醚型消泡剂、增稠剂混合而成。
2.根据权利要求1所述的生产工艺,其特征在于:所述水性聚氨酯树脂、水性有机色浆、变色腊粉、分散剂、有机硅流平剂、聚醚型消泡剂和增稠剂的质量比为1:(0.03-0.05):(0.03-0.05):(0.01-0.015):(0.005-0.01):(0.002-0.005):(0.01-0.05),所述水性聚碳酸酯型聚氨酯树脂、氮丙啶类交联剂、有机硅流平剂、聚醚型消泡剂、增稠剂的质量比为1:0.0025:(0.005-0.01):(0.002-0.005):(0.01-0.05)。
3.一种具有拉伸扭曲变色效果的新型面料的生产工艺,其特征在于:包括以下步骤:
(1)利用凹版印刷水性聚氨酯粘合剂对底布的布纹填平,并烘干;
(2)对填平的底布进行压光处理;
(3)对压光处理的底布涂变色树脂层,并低温烘干;
(4)对涂有变色树脂层的底布涂水性聚碳酸酯型聚氨酯,并高温烘干;
(5)对两层涂布层的底布进行打卷静置,待各涂布层与底布完全交联固化;
(6)对固化的成品进行水洗和无张力烘干。
4.根据权利要求2所述的生产工艺,其特征在于:所述步骤(1)中烘干程度为70%-80%,其中烘干温度为70-80℃,烘干时间为18-23s。
5.根据权利要求2所述的生产工艺,其特征在于:所述步骤(1)中水性聚氨酯粘合剂是由水性聚氨酯耐寒底涂胶、去离子水、水性无机色浆、氮丙啶类交联剂、分散剂、聚醚型消泡剂和增稠剂搅拌混合而成,其质量比为1:(0.2-0.3):(0.05-0.06):0.0025:(0.01-0.015):(0.002-0.005):(0.01-0.05)。
6.根据权利要求2所述的生产工艺,其特征在于:所述步骤(2)中压光处理温度为170-190°。
7.根据权利要求2所述的生产工艺,其特征在于:所述步骤(3)中变色树脂层采用间隙涂层的方式进行涂层,其中涂布间隙为0.35-0.45mm,涂布张力为10-13kgf,烘干温度80-85℃,烘干时间为0.8-1min。
8.根据权利要求2所述的生产工艺,其特征在于:所述步骤(4)中的烘干温度为150-160℃,热处理时间为0.8-1.2min。
9.根据权利要求2所述的生产工艺,其特征在于:所述步骤(5)中打卷静置时间为24小时以上。
10.根据权利要求2所述的生产工艺,其特征在于:所述步骤(6)中水洗温度为15-25℃,无张力烘干温度为100-120℃。
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