CN108635247B - Cosmetic composition containing sodium hyaluronate - Google Patents
Cosmetic composition containing sodium hyaluronate Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN108635247B CN108635247B CN201810676214.9A CN201810676214A CN108635247B CN 108635247 B CN108635247 B CN 108635247B CN 201810676214 A CN201810676214 A CN 201810676214A CN 108635247 B CN108635247 B CN 108635247B
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- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- sodium hyaluronate
- molecular weight
- skin
- composition containing
- solubilizer
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired - Fee Related
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- 229920002385 Sodium hyaluronate Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 94
- 229940010747 sodium hyaluronate Drugs 0.000 title claims abstract description 94
- YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N sodium;(2s,3s,4s,5r,6r)-6-[(2s,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2-[(2s,3s,4r,5r,6r)-6-[(2r,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2,5-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-2-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-5-hydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxane-2- Chemical compound [Na+].CC(=O)N[C@H]1[C@H](O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O3)C(O)=O)O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)NC(C)=O)[C@@H](C(O)=O)O1 YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N 0.000 title claims abstract description 88
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 26
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/735—Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/10—General cosmetic use
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/85—Products or compounds obtained by fermentation, e.g. yoghurt, beer, wine
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention discloses a cosmetic composition containing sodium hyaluronate. It comprises 3.0-15.0% of sodium hyaluronate, 71.0-91.0% of polyalcohol, 5.0-12.0% of skin feeling regulating and penetration enhancer and 1.0-3.0% of solubilizer by mass percentage; wherein the sodium hyaluronate consists of medium molecular sodium hyaluronate with the molecular weight of 80-100 ten thousand daltons, small molecular sodium hyaluronate with the molecular weight of 20-40 ten thousand daltons and hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate with the molecular weight of 8000 daltons. The invention is used in cosmetics, shows long-time moisturizing property, can maximize the moisturizing effect of sodium hyaluronate, well solves the sticky feeling of sodium hyaluronate, and can obtain excellent skin feeling.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of daily chemical industry, and particularly relates to a cosmetic composition containing sodium hyaluronate.
Background
Sodium hyaluronate is taken as a cosmetic production raw material, is currently known by people to have moisturizing effect, and has functions of resisting aging, repairing skin and the like while obtaining better moisturizing effect when being used for compounding sodium hyaluronate with different molecular weights. At present, the sodium hyaluronate moisturizing cosmetics in the market mostly adopt macromolecular sodium hyaluronate with the molecular weight of 180-220 kilodaltons and medium molecular weight sodium hyaluronate with the molecular weight of 130-150 kilodaltons. For high molecular weight sodium hyaluronate, the aim of moisturizing can be achieved only by forming a layer of transparent hydrated film on the surface layer of skin to prevent the moisture in the skin from evaporating, but the higher the molecular weight of the used sodium hyaluronate is, the lower the moisture content of the skin is, and the film formed by adding a small amount of sodium hyaluronate is not thick enough to achieve the effect of preventing the moisture in the skin from evaporating; in addition, due to the high viscosity of the macromolecular sodium hyaluronate, the addition amount of the macromolecular sodium hyaluronate is high, so that the cosmetic can generate sticky feeling when being applied, is not easy to be quickly absorbed by skin, brings obvious uncomfortable feeling, and a film formed after drying is hard and uncomfortable.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a cosmetic composition containing sodium hyaluronate, which can effectively overcome the defects in the prior art.
In order to achieve the purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:
the cosmetic composition containing sodium hyaluronate comprises, by mass, 3.0-15.0% of sodium hyaluronate, 70.0-91.0% of polyhydric alcohol, 5.0-12.0% of skin feel regulating and penetration enhancer and 1.0-3.0% of solubilizer; wherein the sodium hyaluronate consists of medium molecular sodium hyaluronate with the molecular weight of 80-100 ten thousand daltons, small molecular sodium hyaluronate with the molecular weight of 20-40 ten thousand daltons and hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate with the molecular weight of 8000 daltons.
Preferably, the content of the sodium hyaluronate is 5.0-13.0%.
Preferably, the content of the medium-molecule sodium hyaluronate is 2.0-4.5%, the content of the small-molecule sodium hyaluronate is 2.0-4.5%, and the content of the hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate is 1.0-4.0%.
Preferably, the medium-molecule sodium hyaluronate, the small-molecule sodium hyaluronate and the hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate are prepared by a microbial fermentation method, and the microbial fermentation method comprises an enzyme cutting method.
Preferably, the hyaluronidase used in the enzymatic cleavage is a bacillus hyaluronidase obtained by fermentation culture of bacillus A50CGMCC NO. 5744.
Preferably, the polyalcohol is any one of glycerol, butanediol, 1, 3-propanediol and dipropylene glycol or a mixture of at least two of the glycerol, the butanediol, the 1, 3-propanediol and the dipropylene glycol; the content of the polyalcohol is 74.0-88.0%.
Preferably, the skin feel adjusting and penetration enhancer is any one of magnesium aspartate, zinc gluconate, copper gluconate and calcium pantothenate or a mixture of at least two of the magnesium aspartate, the zinc gluconate, the copper gluconate and the calcium pantothenate; the content of the skin feeling adjusting and penetration enhancer is 5.0-10.0%.
Preferably, the solubilizer is any one of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PPG-26-butanol polyether-26, polysorbate-20 or a mixture of at least two of the above; the content of the solubilizer is 2.0-3.0%.
The invention is used in cosmetics, shows long-time moisturizing property, can maximize the moisturizing effect of sodium hyaluronate, well solves the sticky feeling of sodium hyaluronate, and can obtain excellent skin feeling.
Detailed Description
The cosmetic composition containing sodium hyaluronate comprises, by mass, 3.0-15.0% of sodium hyaluronate, 70.0-91.0% of polyhydric alcohol, 5.0-12.0% of skin feel adjusting and penetration enhancer and 1.0-3.0% of solubilizer; wherein the sodium hyaluronate consists of medium molecular sodium hyaluronate with the molecular weight of 80-100 ten thousand daltons, small molecular sodium hyaluronate with the molecular weight of 20-40 ten thousand daltons and hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate with the molecular weight of 8000 daltons.
The medium molecular sodium hyaluronate, the small molecular sodium hyaluronate and the hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate are all prepared by adopting a microbial fermentation method, such as an enzyme cutting method. The enzyme cutting method is characterized in that hyaluronic acid or salt thereof is degraded by Bacillus hyaluronidase obtained by fermenting and culturing Bacillus (Bacillus sp.) A50CGMCC NO.5744, and the working procedures comprise the steps of preparing hyaluronic acid or salt solution thereof, carrying out enzymolysis, inactivating, filtering, precipitating, dehydrating, drying and the like. The sodium hyaluronate obtained by the enzyme cutting method has the advantages of good transdermal absorbability, high purity, no cytotoxicity, strong oxidation resistance, no browning and the like. In the embodiment of the invention, a sodium hyaluronate product produced by Huaxi Furida biomedicine Limited is selected. In the present invention, sodium hyaluronate is preferably used in an amount of 5.0% to 13.0%. Wherein the usage amount of the medium molecular sodium hyaluronate is 2.0% -4.5%; the usage amount of the micromolecular sodium hyaluronate is 2.0-4.5%; the usage amount of the hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate is 1.0-4.0%.
The polyalcohol is any one of glycerol, butanediol, 1, 3-propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol or a mixture of at least two of the glycerol, the butanediol, the 1, 3-propylene glycol and the dipropylene glycol. In the present invention, the polyol is preferably used in an amount of 74.0% to 88.0%.
The skin feeling regulating and penetration enhancer is one or the mixture of at least two of magnesium aspartate, zinc gluconate, copper gluconate and calcium pantothenate. For magnesium aspartate, zinc gluconate, and copper gluconate, SEPITONIC M3 product available from Sebick corporation; for Calcium pantothenate, the "Calcium D-pantonate" product from DSM can be used. In the present invention, the preferred usage amount of the skin feel adjusting and penetration enhancer is 5.0% -10.0%.
The solubilizer is any one of PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, PPG-26-butanol polyether-26 and polysorbate-20 or a mixture of at least two of the PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, the PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, the PPG-26-butanol polyether-26 and the polysorbate-20. For PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, the "Cremophor RH40 solubilizer" available from BASF corporation; for PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil, the "Cremophor RH60 solubilizer" available from BASF corporation may be used. In the present invention, the solubilizer is preferably used in an amount of 2.0% to 3.0%.
Examples
The following components are calculated according to mass percentage.
Serial number | Component (A) | Example 1 | Example 2 | Example 3 | Example 4 | Example 5 |
1 | Middle molecular sodium hyaluronate | 1.0 | 2.0 | 4.0 | 4.5 | 5.0 |
2 | Small molecule sodium hyaluronate | 1.0 | 2.0 | 4.0 | 4.5 | 5.0 |
3 | Hydrolyzed molecular sodium hyaluronate | 1.0 | 1.0 | 2.0 | 4.0 | 5.0 |
4 | Glycerol | 91.0 | 88.0 | 78.0 | 74.0 | 70.0 |
5 | Solubilizer | 1.0 | 2.0 | 2.0 | 3.0 | 3.0 |
6 | Skin feeling regulating and penetration promoting agent | 5.0 | 5.0 | 10.0 | 10.0 | 12.0 |
The preparation process of the composition of the above example is as follows:
mixing the sodium hyaluronate of the medium molecule, the sodium hyaluronate of the small molecule, the sodium hyaluronate of the hydrolyzed molecule and the glycerol, stirring by using a stirrer, controlling the rotating speed at 60 revolutions per minute, fully stirring for 20 minutes to ensure that the mixture is completely uniform, then adding the solubilizer, heating to 60 ℃, completely dissolving the solubilizer, cooling to 45 ℃, adding the skin feel adjusting and permeation promoting agent, and uniformly stirring to obtain the composition for cosmetics containing the sodium hyaluronate.
The above-mentioned sodium hyaluronate is HA-TLM sodium hyaluronate of Huaxifuruida biological medicine limited; the small molecule sodium hyaluronate is HA-TLM20-40 sodium hyaluronate of Huaxi Fu Ruida biological medicine Limited company; the hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate is Nano HA enzyme-digested oligomeric sodium hyaluronate of Huaxi Furuida biomedicine Limited company, and can be purchased from Huaxi Furuida biomedicine Limited company. The skin feel conditioning and penetration enhancer was Sepinonici M3 product from Sebick, available from Baihabo corporation. The solubilizer was Cremophor RH60 solubilizer from BASF, commercially available from longhui trade, ltd.
The molecular weight of the medium molecular sodium hyaluronate used in the invention is 80-100 ten thousand daltons, the molecular weight of the small molecular sodium hyaluronate is 20-40 ten thousand daltons, the addition amount can be higher than that of the sodium hyaluronate with the molecular weight of more than 120 ten thousand daltons, and a transparent hydrated film can be formed on the surface of the skin to prevent the water in the skin from evaporating, and the greasy effect caused by the sodium hyaluronate with the molecular weight of more than 120 ten thousand daltons does not exist. The molecular weight of the hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate is 8000 daltons, the molecular weight is small, and almost no viscosity exists even at higher concentration, so that the hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate can be added at higher concentration to meet the refreshing skin feeling of cosmetics; and as the concentration of the hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid increases, the duration of the moisturizing effect thereof increases, and the hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate has the strongest effect of increasing the moisture content of the skin. The sodium hyaluronate and the hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate are used together, so that the synergistic effect can be achieved, and a better moisturizing effect is shown. The invention also uses skin feel regulation with the function of promoting permeation, so that the sodium hyaluronate and the hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate can be better absorbed by permeation, and a better moisturizing effect can be exerted.
In the cosmetic made of the present invention, general cosmetic raw materials other than the above-mentioned components may be added as necessary within a range not impairing the effects of the present invention in order to improve the sensory properties, impart nutrients to the skin, prevent deterioration in quality, and the like, for example: natural water-soluble polymer, semisynthetic water-soluble polymer, inorganic water-soluble polymer, ultraviolet absorbent, metal ion chelating agent, lower alcohol, polyalcohol, monosaccharide, oligosaccharide, polysaccharide, amino acid, peptide, organic amine, antiseptic, pH regulator, vitamins, plant extract essence, antioxidant auxiliary agent, perfume, water, etc. These components may be one or a combination of two or more.
The natural water-soluble polymer may be: acacia, xanthan gum, galactan, guar gum, locust bean gum, carrageenan, pectin, seaweed gum, starch, amylopectin, collagen, gelatin, etc.
The semisynthetic water-soluble polymer may be: carboxymethyl starch, methylhydroxypropyl starch, methylcellulose, methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium alginate, propylene glycol alginate, etc.
The inorganic water-soluble polymer may be: bentonite, magnesium aluminum silicate, magnesium lithium silicate, montmorillonite, etc.
The ultraviolet absorber may be: p-aminobenzoic acid series such as p-aminobenzoic acid monoglyceride, anthranilic acid series such as menthol-N-S hexadecyl anthranilate, salicylic acid series such as octyl salicylate, cinnamic acid series such as octyl cinnamate, and benzophenone series such as 4-hydroxy-3-carboxybenzophenone. The ultraviolet absorber may be used alone or in combination of two or more.
The metal ion chelating agent may be: disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, and the like.
The lower alcohol may be: ethanol, isopropanol, and the like.
The polyol may be: glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, sorbitol, and the like.
Examples of such monosaccharides may be: trioses such as D-glyceraldehyde, tetroses such as D-erythrose, pentoses such as D-arabinose, hexoses such as D-glucose, heptoses such as aldopentose, deoxy sugars such as 6-deoxy-L-galactose, aminosugars such as D-glucosamine, and uronic acids such as D-galacturonic acid.
The oligosaccharide may be lactose, raffinose, and plantago sugar.
The polysaccharide may be: chondroitin sulfate, chitosan, galactan, and the like.
The amino acid may be neutral amino acid such as threonine, basic amino acid such as mercaptolysine, or amino acid derivative such as glutathione.
The peptides may be: dipeptide diaminobutyrylbenzylamide diacetate, palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, oat (AVENASATIVA) peptide, acetyl octapeptide-3, carnosine, glutathione, dipeptide-2, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, and the like.
The organic amine may be: monoethanolamine, triethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol, and the like.
The preservative may be: methyl hydroxybenzoate, phenoxyethanol, diazoimidazolidinyl urea, iodopropynyl butylmethylamine ester, chlorphenesin, sodium benzoate, and the like.
The pH adjuster may be: sodium hydroxide, triethanolamine, citric acid, and the like.
The vitamins may be: vitamin A, vitamin C, vitamin E, pantothenic acid, vitamin B3 and their derivatives.
The plant extract essence may be: aloe, witch hazel, cucumber, lemon, lavender, rose, and the like.
The antioxidant may be: tocopherols, dibutylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, gallic acid esters, etc.
The antioxidant aid may be: phosphoric acid, maleic acid, malonic acid, phytic acid, EDTA, and the like.
Application examples
The moisturizing essence prepared from the cosmetic composition containing sodium hyaluronate has the following formula (calculated by mass percent) as follows:
the preparation process of the moisturizing essence comprises the following steps:
1. adding deionized water into a water kettle, heating to 80 ℃, and stirring for 20 minutes under the condition of heat preservation.
2. Then cooling, cooling to 60 ℃, adding the composition, and stirring until the composition is completely dissolved;
3. and continuously cooling, cooling to 45 ℃, adding essence and preservative, stirring for 30 minutes, inspecting, and discharging after the materials are qualified.
To demonstrate the long-lasting moisturization and excellent skin feel of the present invention, the present application example was subjected to the following tests:
sodium hyaluronate moisturizing essence was prepared as an experimental preparation according to the formulations of examples 1 to 5 and designated as sample 1, sample 2, sample 3, sample 4 and sample 5, respectively; sodium hyaluronate moisturizing essence without SEPITONIC M3 and Cremophor RH60 solubilizer was prepared as experimental preparation and named as control 1, control 2, control 3, control 4 and control 5; and preparing moisturizing essence without the composition as an experimental preparation, and naming the preparation as a blank group. The specific method comprises the following steps:
firstly, testing the moisturizing effect:
6 groups of subjects, women aged 23-35 years, were selected as trial subjects. The test subject takes a rest for 30min in a constant temperature and humidity (temperature (22 +/-1) DEG C and humidity (50 +/-10)%) environment, selects a proper sample application area, measures initial data during T0 (before using a product), applies samples to the selected area on the double front arms according to a random table, applies a single application according to the dosage of (2.0 +/-0.1) mg/cm2 test samples, performs the whole test process in the constant temperature and humidity environment, and performs noninvasive instrument measurement on the tested part after applying the product for T30min, T60min, T120min and T240min, measures the hydration content of the stratum corneum, and the percutaneous water loss rate and records.
1. Measurement of the skin stratum corneum hydration Content (CAP) was performed using a MOISTURETERSC MSC1212 (DELFIN). OISTRURETERSC MOISTURETERSC is used clinically to measure the hydration water content of the horny layer of the arm skin. Higher values indicate higher hydration of the stratum corneum, indicating better moisturizing effect of the product.
2. Measurement of skin transepidermal water loss analysis (TEWL) the equipment used was TAPOETER SWL5167 (DELFIN). The TAPOMETER is used clinically to measure the percutaneous water loss rate of the arm. A smaller value indicates a better skin barrier, indicating a better water-locking effect of the product.
Table 1: stratum corneum hydration level of skin
Table 2: rate of percutaneous water loss
In a preferred embodiment, the stratum corneum hydration level of the skin is significantly increased and the transepidermal water loss is significantly reduced compared to baseline (T0) at T30min, T60min, T120min, T240min after sample application relative to blank treated skin; the stratum corneum hydration level of the skin was also significantly increased relative to the control treated skin. The present invention also provides an increase in moisturization and other benefits to the skin over a relatively longer period of time, e.g., up to 8, 12, and 24 hours, without the disadvantages of prior formulations such as a slimy feel or an insufficiently silky, soft feel.
The results demonstrate that the preferred embodiments of the invention represented by examples 1-5 provide excellent skin moisturizing properties, with a significant improvement in skin moisturizing effect after 30 minutes and 1 hour, far better than the results of the control and blank samples. This result suggests that the compositions of the present invention provide a surprising and unexpected synergistic moisturizing effect because the best results are not achieved with the components alone or without the addition of skin feel conditioning and penetration enhancers and solubilizers.
II, skin feel test:
25 groups of subjects, women aged 23-55 years, were selected as trial subjects. The experimenter is according to the result of use, grades each index of test product, grades according to like degree in proper order: scores of 5 are very much preferred, scores of 4 are preferred, scores of 3 are general, scores of 2 are less preferred, scores of 1 are not preferred, and scores of 5 are the highest satisfaction.
From the test results, the preferred embodiments of the present invention represented by examples 1 to 5 improved the slimy, absorbent, silky and soft feel of sodium hyaluronate, brought excellent skin feel, and were more preferred by consumers.
Claims (3)
1. The cosmetic composition containing sodium hyaluronate is characterized by comprising, by mass, 5.0-13.0% of sodium hyaluronate, 74.0-88.0% of polyhydric alcohol, 5.0-10.0% of skin feel adjusting and permeation-promoting agent and 2.0-3.0% of solubilizer; wherein the sodium hyaluronate consists of medium molecular sodium hyaluronate with the molecular weight of 80-100 ten thousand daltons, small molecular sodium hyaluronate with the molecular weight of 20-40 ten thousand daltons and hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate with the molecular weight of 8000 daltons;
the content of the medium molecule sodium hyaluronate is 2.0-4.5%, the content of the small molecule sodium hyaluronate is 2.0-4.5%, and the content of the hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate is 1.0-4.0%;
the polyalcohol is glycerol;
the skin feeling regulating and penetration enhancer is SEPITONIC M3;
the solubilizer is Cremophor RH60 solubilizer.
2. The cosmetic composition containing sodium hyaluronate according to claim 1, wherein the medium molecule sodium hyaluronate, the small molecule sodium hyaluronate and the hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate are prepared by a microbial fermentation method, and the microbial fermentation method comprises an enzymatic cleavage method.
3. The cosmetic composition containing sodium hyaluronate according to claim 2, wherein the hyaluronidase used in the enzymatic cleavage is bacillus hyaluronidase obtained by fermentation culture of bacillus A50CGMCC NO. 5744.
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