CN106435920A - 多元混纺纱与蚕丝交织的大提花家纺面料的制备方法 - Google Patents
多元混纺纱与蚕丝交织的大提花家纺面料的制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明提供一种多元混纺纱与蚕丝交织的大提花家纺面料的制备方法，以多元混纺纱作为纬向纱线，桑蚕丝作为经向纱线交织而成；其中多元混纺纱由汉麻纤维、棉纤维、蛋白质复合再生纤维素纤维三种纤维组分混纺而成。本发明应用天然纤维和功能性纤维材料采用大提花织造技术，赋予家纺纺织品面料绿色环保、柔软保暖、光泽度好、高档奢华的附加值特性。
Description
本发明专利申请是申请日为2015年4月24日、申请号为2015102007048、名称为多元混纺纱与蚕丝交织的大提花家纺面料及其生产方法的中国专利申请的分案申请。
技术领域
本发明涉及一种家纺面料，特别涉及一种多元混纺纱与蚕丝交织的大提花家纺面料的制备方法。
背景技术
目前，随着科学技术的发展和人民生活水平的提高，人们对家纺消费观念不断更新。居室中的家纺纺织品的舒适性、环保生态性和功能性逐渐成为消费者关注的焦点。人们的消费观念也逐渐从物美价廉到奢华高档转变，既对人体健康又有设计品味的产品在市场中更易于推广。
在纺织品的原料中，桑蚕丝被喻为“纤维皇后”，一直是高端家居纺织品原料中的奢华代表。桑蚕丝具有良好的吸湿透气性，给人滑爽、舒适、光泽柔和悦目的感觉，同时桑蚕丝是一种天然蛋白质纤维，含有人体所必需的18种氨基酸，对人体无刺激，具有亲肤性、吸收屏蔽紫外线的功效，有利于防止湿疹、皮肤瘙痒等皮肤病的产生。
但是单一品种常规纤维往往具有各种技术缺陷，例如，汉麻为“天然纤维之王”，其织物具有抗菌、透气、吸湿等优点，但由于汉麻初始模量大，精梳纯纺高支纱难度大，需要和其他纤维混纺成纱；棉纤维吸湿保暖，可纺性强，但缺乏弹性、色牢度不高；蛋白质复合再生纤维素纤维是由纤维素和蛋白质溶液复合纺丝而成，是利用先进的粉体粉碎技术将各种优质天然蛋白质纤维中不能直接应用的低等级蛋白质纤维（如羊毛、蚕丝的下脚料等）粉碎成粒径适合的蛋白粉体，对其进行耐碱保护处理后混合到粘胶原液中，通过粘胶纤维生产工艺路线制备出来。蛋白质复合再生纤维素纤维柔软光滑，具有良好的亲肤性、保暖性和回弹性，但只能采用酸性染色。
发明内容
本发明针对以上现行技术缺陷，提供了一种多元混纺纱与蚕丝交织织成的大提花家纺面料的制备方法，以达到减少单一品种常规纤维带来的技术缺陷，集合多种纤维优点的目的。
为实现上述目的，本发明采取下述技术方案来实现：
一种多元混纺纱与蚕丝交织的大提花家纺面料的制备方法，所述家纺面料以多元混纺纱作为纬向纱线，桑蚕丝作为经向纱线交织而成；其中多元混纺纱由汉麻纤维、棉纤维、蛋白质复合再生纤维素纤维三种纤维组分混纺而成。
所述制备方法的具体步骤为：
步骤a，原料准备，包括经线原料准备和纬线原料准备，其中经线采用白厂丝并捻而成的捻合股；纬线采用汉麻纤维、棉纤维、蛋白质复合再生纤维素纤维三种组分混纺而成的多元混纺纱；
步骤b，织物织造，将步骤a处理好的原料安装在电子提花机上，按照设计程序开始织造，织造时采用大提花开口剑杆引纬织造，织机采用单造单把吊装造，目板为一顺穿，纬纱排列采用四纬依次循环织入；
步骤c，织造后处理，织造完成了机后，进行坯布检验，完成后对织物上的蚕丝进行脱胶处理，处理后进行染色，染色后进行汽蒸、水洗；然后定型烘干，得到成品大提花家纺面料。
进一步，所述步骤a中经线采用未经过处理的白厂丝，经过加捻定型后进行分条整经，将经轴安装于电子提花机待用；纬线采用汉麻纤维、棉纤维、蛋白质复合再生纤维素纤维三种组分均选用经精梳制成的生棉条，三种纤维组分的生须条卷放入并条机中进行混并，制成三组分的混合生条。所制生条依次经精梳机、并条机、粗纱机和细纱机纺纱工艺加工，制成所需细度和捻度规格的混纺纱。
进一步，步骤b中，织物布边为大边加小边结构，大边采用16枚纬缎组织，小边采用平纹组织。
进一步，所述步骤b中在花部以16/7纬面缎纹组织间丝；地部采用8/5经面缎纹，经丝浮于织物表面，纬纱背衬花部组织采用16/7纬面缎纹，多元混纺纱纬纱显花。
进一步，步骤c中采用木瓜蛋白酶进行脱胶处理，脱胶温度60℃，pH值为7。
进一步，步骤c中的染色，先采用活性染料对纬纱上染，在pH值为9-10，温度60℃的环境下对混纺纱染色，浴比1:5，固色时间60min，可同时对纬纱上的汉麻、棉、蛋白质复合再生纤维素纤维上色；固色完成后调节pH值至中性，始染温度至30℃，开始用酸性染料染色，逐渐升温至95-98℃，分二次加入醋酸使溶液呈弱酸性，对桑蚕丝上染。
总之，本发明的有益效果为：本发明采用由汉麻纤维、棉纤维、蛋白质复合再生纤维素纤维三种纤维组分混纺而成的多元混纺纱作为纬线，纬线结合汉麻抗菌、透气、吸湿等优点；棉纤维吸湿保暖，可纺性强大的优点以及蛋白质复合再生纤维素纤维柔软光滑，良好的亲肤性、保暖性和回弹性的优点，同时克服上述三种单一纤维各自的缺陷；采用蚕丝做经线，赋予织物高档奢华的感觉，因此本发明综合应用天然纤维和功能性纤维材料，大提花织造技术，赋予家纺纺织品面料绿色环保、柔软保暖、光泽度好、高档奢华的附加值特性。
经线桑蚕丝在地部织成8/5经面缎纹，具有光滑、柔爽、明亮、高雅华贵的风格；多元混纺纱纬纱在花部织成16/7纬面缎纹显花，具有粗犷奔放、凸起暗淡的风格，与地部形成强烈对比，富有浮雕般的立体感。
附图说明
图1是本发明一个实施例中大提花家纺面料的生产工艺流程图。
具体实施方式
下面结合附图和具体实施例对本发明进行详细描述。
图1是本发明一个实施例多元混纺纱与蚕丝交织的大提花家纺面料生产工艺流程。
如图1所示，本发明的多元混纺纱与蚕丝交织的大提花家纺面料的生产步骤具体包括：
纹织工艺设计——先进行家纺花形纹样设计，再进行纹织CAD设计，需要设计计算花形长宽、经纬密、经丝根数、纬纱根数、组织结构设计、纬纱排列设计，最后通过大提花CAD软件系统生成电子大提花纹板，将纹板文件输入至电子大提花机控制器中。
经丝工艺路线——采用未经过处理的白厂丝为原料，先对桑蚕丝生丝原料进行检验，根据经丝规格进行并丝、加捻，由单丝成为股线，加捻完成后需要定型，使捻度得以固定；进行分条整经，整经完成后将经轴安装在电子提花机上，开始穿接经，待穿综过筘完成后，准备织造。
纬纱工艺路线——先分别对汉麻纤维、棉纤维、蛋白质复合再生纤维素纤维的生须条进行原料检验，原料混合前先进行混纺比例的计算与配置，确定含棉量和生条干定量，并采用三种纤维组分的生须条卷放入并条机中进行混并，制成三组分的混合生条。
在进行混并条时，将每种组分的生条根据混纺比例并条，然后将混条精梳，并条得到熟条；然后纺制粗纱、细纱，再在真空蒸汽中定型，然后烘干。完成后将小卷装的细纱筒子络筒成纬纱卷装，安装在电子提花机的储纬器上，准备织造。
织物织造——采用大提花开口剑杆引纬织造，织机采用单造单把吊装造，目板为一顺穿，纬纱排列采用四纬依次循环织入，织物布边为大边加小边结构，大边采用16枚纬缎组织，小边采用平纹组织。纹织意匠设计要求花地界线分明，自由勾边，在花部以16/7纬面缎纹组织间丝，边缘处可采用抛边省略部分间丝点。地部组织采用8/5经面缎纹，经丝浮于织物表面，纬纱背衬，由于经丝为蚕丝，织物表面呈现光滑、柔爽、明亮、高雅华贵的风格。花部组织采用16/7纬面缎纹，多元混纺纱纬纱显花，具有粗犷奔放、凸起暗淡的风格，与地部形成强烈对比，富有浮雕般的立体感。
后处理工艺——在电子大提花机上进行织造，织造完成了机后，进行坯布检验，完成后对织物上的蚕丝进行脱胶。
为了将蚕丝表面的丝胶去除以增加织物的柔软和可染性，应用生物酶技术将丝胶溶解去除。脱胶时采用生物酶技术，在适合的pH温度环境下，使蚕丝脱胶而不伤害其他组分纤维。脱胶后的织物手感会变得更加柔软，光泽度更好。
脱胶完成后进行染色，织物染色，采用二浴套染技术，即先在弱碱环境下用活性染料将纬纱染色，纬纱固色后再调整PH值，使溶液呈中性直至弱酸性后对经纱用酸性染料染色。因为纬纱成分主要为纤维素纤维，需要在碱性条件下才能用活性染料染色，而碱性环境会造成经丝中的蚕丝损伤，因此只能在弱碱状态下先对纬纱上染。然后不断降低溶液中的PH值，使溶液呈弱酸性，此时可对经丝上的蚕丝用酸性染料上染，以此来完成整块织物的染色。
染色后进行汽蒸、水洗，增加色牢度；然后定型烘干，最后进行成品检验，最终入库。
实施例1
一种大提花家纺面料，包括经丝和纬丝，经丝为蚕丝，纬丝为多元混纺纱，采用大提花织造技术织造，该面料具有柔软保暖、吸湿透气、光泽度好、舒适亲肤，并有良好的医疗保健作用。生产工艺如下：
原料准备：经线采用经丝的线型规格为[（2/20/22D）×250T/m,Z]×(2-3) ×150T/m,S的股线，其中并丝后复丝加S捻，捻度250捻/m，合股后的股线加Z捻，捻度150捻/m。纬线采用多元混纺纱，混纺纱细度规格为（60-80）S/1，捻度110-140捻/m，单纱Z捻。
经纬纱线密度：经密720根/10cm，纬密510根/10cm。
纹织工艺设计：每花长×宽 73×68cm，全幅花数 2，内经丝根数 10512，地部组织甲乙纬组合经缎，花部组织 甲纬纬花、乙纬纬花。
整经方法：采用分条整经，每条200根，分53条合并为一个织轴；
织机装造：准备通丝、单把吊、目板一顺穿、连接综丝组件、编绞；
穿结经：经丝需先按单双数分绞，并依次穿过经停片后进行穿综，经丝穿综采用一顺穿，采用180号筘号，按4入/筘进行穿筘。
上机织造：采用大提花龙头开口剑杆织机织造，4个筒子纬纱及其储纬器依次引纬，织机车速300-450转/分钟。
脱胶精炼：采用生物酶技术脱胶，PH值7、木瓜蛋白酶液温度60℃、浴比1:10，对织物中的经线桑蚕丝生丝实施脱胶加工，脱胶30分钟后清洗、脱水待染；
染色：活性染料和酸性染料二浴法套染染色。先采用活性染料对纬纱上染，在PH值为9-10，温度60℃的环境下用活性染料对混纺纱染色，浴比1:5，固色时间60min，可同时对纬纱上的汉麻、棉、蛋白质复合再生纤维素纤维上色。固色完成后调节PH值至中性，始染温度至30℃，开始继续用酸性染料染料染色，逐渐升温至95-98℃，分二次加入醋酸使溶液呈弱酸性，对桑蚕丝上染，染色20分钟后加盐固色，固色时间30-40min，完成后汽蒸水洗、烘干定型，即成成品。
本发明虽然已以较佳实施例公开如上，但其并不是用来限定本发明，任何本领域技术人员在不脱离本发明的精神和范围内，都可以利用上述揭示的方法和技术内容对本发明技术方案做出可能的变动和修改，因此，凡是未脱离本发明技术方案的内容，依据本发明的技术实质对以上实施例所做出的任何简单修改、等同变化及修饰，均属于本发明技术方案的保护范围。
Claims (3)
1.一种多元混纺纱与蚕丝交织的大提花家纺面料的生产方法，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
步骤a，原料准备，包括经向纱线原料准备和纬向纱线原料准备，其中经向纱线采用白厂丝并捻而成的捻合股线；纬向纱线采用汉麻纤维、棉纤维、蛋白质复合再生纤维素纤维三种组分混纺而成的多元混纺纱；
步骤b，织物织造，将步骤a处理好的原料安装在电子提花机上，按照设计程序开始织造，织造时采用大提花开口剑杆引纬织造，织机采用单造单把吊装造，目板为一顺穿，纬向纱线排列采用四纬依次循环织入；
步骤c，织造后处理，织造完成停机后，进行坯布检验，完成后对织物上的蚕丝进行脱胶处理，处理后进行染色，染色后进行汽蒸、水洗；然后定型烘干，得到成品大提花家纺面料；
步骤c中的染色，先采用活性染料对织物中的纬向纱线上染，在pH值为9-10，温度60℃的环境下对混纺纱染色，浴比1:5，固色时间60min，可同时对纬向纱线上的汉麻、棉、蛋白质复合再生纤维素纤维上色；固色完成后调节pH值至中性，始染温度至30℃，开始用酸性染料染色，逐渐升温至95-98℃，分二次加入醋酸使溶液呈弱酸性，对织物中的桑蚕丝上染；所述步骤a中经向纱线采用未经过处理的白厂丝，经过加捻定型后进行分条整经，将经轴安装于电子提花机待用；纬向纱线采用汉麻纤维、棉纤维、蛋白质复合再生纤维素纤维三种组分均选用经精梳制成的生须条，三种纤维组分的生须条卷放入并条机中进行混并，制成三组分的混合生条，所制生条依次经精梳机、并条机、粗纱机和细纱机纺纱工艺加工，制成所需细度和捻度规格的混纺纱；织物布边为大边加小边结构，大边采用16枚纬缎组织，小边采用平纹组织。
2.根据权利要求2所述的生产方法，其特征在于，所述步骤b中在花部组织以16/7纬面缎纹组织间丝；地部采用8/5经面缎纹，经向纱线浮于织物表面，纬向纱线背衬，花部组织采用16/7纬面缎纹，多元混纺纱纬向纱线显花。
3.根据权利要求1所述的生产方法，其特征在于，步骤c中采用木瓜蛋白酶进行脱胶处理，脱胶温度60℃，pH值为7。
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| CN104775222B (zh) | 2016-10-12 |
| CN106435920B (zh) | 2018-03-13 |
| CN106435954A (zh) | 2017-02-22 |
| CN104775222A (zh) | 2015-07-15 |
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