WO2021003943A1 - 一种高弹乱麻织物的染整加工工艺 - Google Patents

一种高弹乱麻织物的染整加工工艺 Download PDF

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WO2021003943A1
WO2021003943A1 PCT/CN2019/118861 CN2019118861W WO2021003943A1 WO 2021003943 A1 WO2021003943 A1 WO 2021003943A1 CN 2019118861 W CN2019118861 W CN 2019118861W WO 2021003943 A1 WO2021003943 A1 WO 2021003943A1
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dyeing
temperature
fabric
machine
elastic
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PCT/CN2019/118861
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English (en)
French (fr)
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张建国
沈一飞
张�诚
羊甫
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苏州新民印染有限公司
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
    • D06L1/00—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods
    • D06L1/12—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods using aqueous solvents
    • D06L1/14—De-sizing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/16—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using dispersed, e.g. acetate, dyestuffs
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/653—Nitrogen-free carboxylic acids or their salts
    • D06P1/6533—Aliphatic, araliphatic or cycloaliphatic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/58—Material containing hydroxyl groups
    • D06P3/60—Natural or regenerated cellulose
    • D06P3/6033—Natural or regenerated cellulose using dispersed dyes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/02—After-treatment

Definitions

  • the invention belongs to the technical field of textile printing and dyeing, and in particular relates to a dyeing and finishing process of high-elastic ramie fabrics.
  • the SSY elastic fiber As a polyester side-by-side composite fiber, the SSY elastic fiber has its two component polymers asymmetrically arranged on both sides of the fiber along the longitudinal direction. Due to the different microscopic morphology and structure of each component, after wet heat treatment, it will produce different degrees of shrinkage, which makes the fiber produce strong longitudinal stress and twist off the longitudinal axis, so that the fiber presents a permanent three-dimensional crimp. Has excellent elastic elongation and elastic recovery.
  • CEY elastic composite fiber is a new type of elastic composite fiber that is compounded with SSY elastic fiber raw materials and processed by a special composite process. It is a new type of elastic fiber developed in response to certain restrictions in the application of spandex in textiles.
  • the dyeing and finishing process of high-elastic ramie fabrics mainly includes pretreatment process, dyeing process and shaping process.
  • the yarns are subject to greater tension and friction and are prone to breakage.
  • warp yarns need to be treated with sizing, oiling agent and other agents.
  • the size is good for weaving but not good for dyeing and finishing. The size film covered on the surface will hinder the diffusion of the dye into the fiber during the dyeing process.
  • the traditional liquid jet dyeing machine has defects such as large bath ratio, high energy consumption, high sewage discharge, low efficiency, etc., especially the large bath ratio easily leads to high sewage discharge, which makes printing and dyeing enterprises not only need to invest a lot Funds for governance also pose a serious threat to my country's water resources and ecological environment.
  • airflow dyeing uses high-speed airflow to vaporize the dye into a mist.
  • the atomized dye molecules have high kinetic energy and permeability.
  • Through high-speed "migration" the level of the product is improved, the dyeing time is shortened, and it is not easy to produce Colored flowers and dyed creases.
  • water medium transportation which greatly reduces the consumption of dyes, chemical additives and energy, and meets the current modern textile development requirements of "environmental protection, energy saving, emission reduction and high efficiency".
  • the purpose of the present invention is to provide a dyeing and finishing process for high-elastic ramie fabrics.
  • the dyeing quality is guaranteed.
  • the processed fabric not only can the processed fabric be free of crepe marks, scratches and other defects, but also the fabric has good color reproducibility, soft hand feel, and obvious elastic effect, which can meet the relevant requirements of wearing.
  • the present invention is achieved through the following technical solutions: a dyeing and finishing process for high-elastic ramie fabrics.
  • the dyeing and finishing process includes a pretreatment process, a dyeing process, and a setting process.
  • the treatment process includes the open-width desizing process, the machine-cylinder cloth-laying process, the predetermined process and the loose alkali reduction process in sequence.
  • the steps of the dyeing and finishing process are as follows:
  • the open-width desizing process uses an open-width desizing machine to desizing the fabric grey cloth.
  • the desizing aid formula used in the open-width desizing process is as follows:
  • the scouring auxiliary formula used in the machine-cylinder cloth scouring process is as follows:
  • Pre-sizing process using a pre-sizing machine to perform pre-sizing processing on the fabric grey cloth processed by the machine-cylinder cloth scouring process, and the pre-sizing temperature is 200°C;
  • the loose alkali weight reduction process uses lye to perform alkali weight reduction treatment on a predetermined type of fabric grey cloth, where the concentration of liquid alkali in the lye is 40g/L and the treatment temperature is 95°C;
  • the pre-treated fabric grey cloth is dyed.
  • the dyeing agent used in the dyeing process is composed of dyeing auxiliaries and dyes.
  • the dyes are disperse dyes.
  • the dyeing process uses a high temperature and high pressure airflow dyeing machine for dyeing.
  • Dyeing auxiliaries and disperse dyes are injected separately when the temperature of the dyeing vat reaches 45°C, and the pH value of the dyeing bath is 5-6;
  • the dyed fabric grey cloth is fixed by a setting machine and a setting treatment liquid.
  • the temperature of the machine cylinder is raised to 85°C at a temperature increase rate of 0.8°C/min, kept for 10 minutes, and then at a temperature increase rate of 1.0°C/min Warm up to 125°C, hold for 50 minutes, then cool down to 70°C at a cooling rate of 1.2°C/min, and then enter the washing stage.
  • the fabric grey cloth is washed at a temperature of 60°C at medium temperature, and the washing time is 15 minutes. , And then wash at room temperature.
  • the temperature of the dye vat is raised to 90°C at a temperature increase rate of 1.0°C/min, held for 5 minutes, and then heated to 110°C at a temperature rise rate of 1.0°C/min, held for 5 minutes, and then heated at 1.0°C/min
  • the heating rate is increased to 130°C, kept for 70 minutes, and then cooled to 70°C at a cooling rate of 1.2°C/min, and then enters the washing stage.
  • the washing stage is to wash the dyed fabric grey cloth at a temperature of 60°C at a medium temperature.
  • the warm water wash time is 15 minutes, and then the room temperature water wash.
  • the dyeing auxiliaries in the dyeing process include glacial acetic acid, the environmentally friendly repair agent DM-2124 and the new Yuzhongbao M-288, and the amounts of the three dyeing auxiliaries in the dyeing agent are as follows:
  • Glacial acetic acid 0.8g/L
  • the dye in the dye in the dyeing process includes the following components:
  • the temperature condition of the open width desizing process is 80-85°C, and the vehicle speed is 40-45 m/min.
  • the process conditions of the predetermined process are: the predetermined vehicle speed is 45 m/min, and the predetermined fan speed is 1200 r/min.
  • the bath ratio of the dyeing process is 1:4.
  • the process parameters of the dyeing machine are: the output frequency of the main pump is 40 Hz, the output frequency of the fan is 32.5 Hz, and the output frequency of the cloth lifting wheel is 36 Hz.
  • the styling treatment liquid used in the styling process contains 20 grams of antistatic agent GH-580 and 10 grams of softener per liter of styling treatment liquid.
  • the present invention has the following advantages and effects:
  • the present invention uses a high-temperature and high-pressure airflow dyeing machine for dyeing processing, and the average water consumption per cylinder can be reduced by 50%, steam consumption by 57.14%, and energy saving and emission reduction effects are obvious;
  • the dyeing process of the present invention designs reasonable dyeing temperature curve, dyeing machine parameter design, dyeing bath ratio and dyeing bath PH according to the characteristics of high-elastic ramie fabrics, which greatly increases the dyeing percentage of the fabric and makes the fabric
  • the color vividness of the dyed fabric is the best, and the dyed fabric has better color reproducibility compared with the customer's sample, and will not damage the fabric, so that the dyed fabric has no crease marks, scratches and other defects;
  • the present invention can effectively remove the slurry, oil, stains, etc. of the fabric, smooth the fabric surface, meet the requirements of the door width, improve dimensional stability, facilitate subsequent processing, and make the fabric It feels soft and meets the requirements of taking;
  • the present invention can not only improve the dyeing effect of the fabric through the reasonable design of the pretreatment process, the dyeing process and the setting process, so that the dyeing uniformity and color fastness of the fabric can meet customer requirements, but also will not damage the elasticity of the fabric.
  • the fabric has good deformation memory, and at the same time makes the fabric soft and dimensional stability.
  • Figure 1 is the scouring temperature process curve in the machine-cylinder scouring process of the present invention.
  • Figure 2 is a dyeing temperature process curve in the dyeing process of the present invention.
  • Fabric grey cloth width 206cm, 216g/cm 3 .
  • Dyestuffs Disperse Yellow E-GL and Disperse Red Jade SE-2GF are produced by Zhejiang Longsheng Group Co., Ltd.;
  • Equipment OS-9V12000 open width desizing machine (Taiwan Hongrong Dyeing and Finishing Machinery Equipment Co., Ltd.); XH-800 loose alkali reducing machine (Wuxi Xianghong Dyeing and Finishing Equipment Co., Ltd.); STF3-2HT high temperature and high pressure airflow dyeing machine ( Deyijia Machinery (Jiangsu) Equipment Co., Ltd.); MEGATE III setting machine (Korea Micron Machinery Co., Ltd.); RVMC-12 Mano photoelectric weft straightening machine (German Mahlo).
  • the dyeing and finishing process of the high-elastic ramie fabric includes a pre-treatment process, a dyeing process, and a setting process.
  • the pre-treatment process includes an open-width desizing process, a machine-cylinder cloth training process, a pre-sizing process and The loose alkali weight reduction process, the specific steps of the dyeing and finishing process are as follows:
  • the open-width desizing process uses an open-width desizing machine to desizing the fabric grey cloth.
  • the desizing aid formula used in the open-width desizing process is as follows:
  • the temperature condition of the open width desizing process is 85°C, and the vehicle speed is 40m/min.
  • TF-127HA desizing agent Under hot alkali conditions, combined with the high-frequency vibration of the oscillator in the liquid caustic soda tank, TF-127HA desizing agent can emulsify and decompose the slurry on the surface of the fabric, and then make the slurry fall off the fabric.
  • sodium tripolyphosphate with good chelating effect on metal ions it can prevent the slurry from back sticking during desizing and has the effect of softening water.
  • the size, oil, stains, etc. on the surface of the high-elastic ramie fabric can be basically removed, the fabric is also relaxed and pre-shrunk, and the internal stress is relieved. In addition, the cloth surface is flat and the contact surface area is increased, which is beneficial to subsequent production and processing.
  • the scouring auxiliary formula used in the machine-cylinder cloth scouring process is as follows:
  • the temperature curve of the machine-cylinder cloth training process is shown in Figure 1.
  • the machine-cylinder temperature is raised to 85°C at a heating rate of 0.8°C/min, and kept for 10 minutes, and then raised to 125°C at a temperature of 1.0°C/min, and kept for 50 minutes. Then the temperature is lowered to 70°C at a cooling rate of 1.2°C/min, and then it enters the washing stage.
  • the fabric grey cloth is washed at a temperature of 60°C for a period of 15 minutes, and then washed at room temperature. There can be two washes at room temperature, and the time for each wash at room temperature is 5 minutes.
  • Pre-sizing process using pre-sizing machine to pre-process the fabric grey fabric processed by machine-cylinder knitting process, pre-sizing temperature is 200°C, pre-scheduled vehicle speed is 45m/min, pre-scheduled fan speed is 1200r/min. After pre-processing, the fabric grey cloth has a width of 140cm.
  • the pre-shaped treatment of high-elastic ramie fabrics aims to improve the stability of the width of the fabric, so that the molecular segments of the fabric are rearranged under the action of damp heat, which can eliminate the inter-molecular forces in the fiber and facilitate subsequent dyeing.
  • the predetermined type of fabric grey cloth is subjected to alkali reduction treatment with lye.
  • concentration of the lye in the lye is 40g/L and the treatment temperature is 95 °C, the treatment time is 2.5h.
  • the pre-treated fabric grey cloth is dyed, and the dyeing agent used in the dyeing process is composed of dyeing auxiliary and dye, and the dye is disperse dye.
  • the dyeing auxiliary agent includes glacial acetic acid, environmental repair agent DM-2124, and new Yuzhongbao M-288.
  • Disperse dyes include disperse yellow E-GL and disperse red jade SE-2GF.
  • the specific formula of the dyeing agent in this dyeing process is as follows:
  • the bath ratio of the dyeing process is 1:4; the process parameters of the dyeing machine are: the output frequency of the main pump is 40Hz, the output frequency of the fan is 32.5Hz, and the output frequency of the cloth lifting wheel is 36Hz.
  • the pH value of the dye bath is 5-6.
  • the dyeing process uses a high-temperature and high-pressure airflow dyeing machine for dyeing.
  • the dyeing vat temperature of the dyeing machine reaches 45°C
  • the dyeing auxiliaries and disperse dyes are injected respectively, and then the dyeing vat temperature is increased at a rate of 1.0°C/min.
  • the speed is lowered to 70°C, the sample is checked at 70°C, and then enters the washing stage.
  • the dyed fabric is washed at a temperature of 60°C at a medium temperature.
  • the washing time is 15 minutes at a medium temperature, and then at normal temperature. There are two washes at room temperature, and the time for each wash at room temperature is 5 minutes.
  • the main component of high-elastic ramie is polyester, which has strong hydrophobicity, according to the "similar compatibility" theorem, the same hydrophobic disperse dyes and high temperature and high pressure airflow dyeing machine are used for dyeing processing.
  • the disperse dye has been added with almost the same amount of dispersant as the dye, so the dye can be basically uniformly dispersed in the dye liquor to form a stable suspension.
  • the pH value of the dyeing bath is controlled at 5-6, which can make the dyeing percentage of the fabric the highest, and the color brightness is also the best.
  • polyester fibers Since the glass transition temperature of polyester fibers is around 75°C, as the dyeing temperature increases, the movement of the chain segments intensifies, the molecules gradually open, and the disperse dyes dissolved in the dye liquor begin to gradually diffuse and dye onto the fabric.
  • the diffusion coefficient of the dye gradually increases with the increase of temperature. The higher the temperature, the faster the diffusion, but too high temperature not only requires high equipment, but also damages the fabric. Therefore, 130°C was chosen for heat preservation and coloring.
  • the dyed fabric grey cloth is fixed by a setting machine and a setting treatment liquid.
  • Each liter of the styling treatment liquid used in the styling process contains 20 grams of antistatic agent GH-580 and 10 grams of softener.
  • the fabric width will shrink to a certain extent, so it is shaped. Therefore, under the action of external force, as the temperature increases, the molecular chain segments are reorganized, and the degree of orientation and crystallinity increase, and a more stable dimensional stability can be obtained.
  • the fabric width is 150cm.
  • the antistatic agent in the styling treatment liquid gives the fabric an antistatic effect, and the softener further improves the feel of the fabric.
  • the shaping temperature of the shaping process is 180°C
  • the vehicle speed is 40m/min
  • the fan speed is 1400r/min
  • the shaping machine performs 4 positive overfeeds.
  • the fabric production sample After being dyed by a high-temperature and high-pressure airflow dyeing machine, the fabric production sample matches the customer's sample color to meet customer requirements.
  • the sparse structure of the original white blank fibers has also become dense, and the hand feel and elasticity have been greatly improved.
  • the average water consumption of the airflow dyeing machine can be reduced by about 12t/cylinder compared with the overflow dyeing machine, that is, the production of unit cylinder is completed, and the airflow dyeing machine can save water by 50% ;
  • the average steam consumption of the airflow dyeing machine is 0.4m 3 /cylinder less than that of the overflow dyeing machine, that is, the unit cylinder production is completed, which can save 57.14% of steam consumption.
  • the airflow dyeing machine can greatly reduce the amount of dyes and auxiliaries due to the smaller bath ratio and water consumption. The production and processing of the airflow dyeing machine is of great significance to energy saving and emission reduction.
  • the high-elasticity random linen fabric uses parallel composite elastic fibers, and its production and processing procedures must consider the influence of the width change on the dyeing and setting.
  • the invention can not only reduce the existence of chromatic aberration and crepe printing, but also improve the wearing stability of the fabric through a reasonable design process.
  • the present invention can effectively remove slurry, oil, stains, etc. of the fabric, smooth the cloth surface, facilitate subsequent processing, and make the fabric soft in hand, which meets the requirements of taking.
  • the invention adopts a high-temperature and high-pressure airflow dyeing machine for dyeing processing, which can meet customer requirements, the hue is consistent, and the fabric has good elasticity and hand feeling.
  • the present invention uses a high-temperature and high-pressure airflow dyeing machine for dyeing processing, and the average water consumption per cylinder can be reduced by 50%, the steam consumption can be reduced by 57.14%, and the effect of energy saving and emission reduction is obvious.

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Abstract

一种高弹乱麻织物的染整加工工艺，该染整加工工艺包括前处理工艺、染色工艺和定型工艺，所述前处理工艺包括依次进行的平幅退浆工艺、机缸练布工艺、预定型工艺和松式碱减量工艺。其中的染色工艺所采用的染色剂是由染色助剂和染料组成，染料为分散染料，该染色工艺采用高温高压气流染色机进行染色，在染色机的染缸温度达到45℃时开始分别注入染色助剂和分散染料，染浴的PH值为5～6。该染整加工工艺不仅可以提高织物的染色效果，使织物的染色均匀性和色牢度满足客户要求，而且不会破坏织物的弹力，使织物具备较好的形变记忆性，同时又使织物手感柔软，尺寸稳定性好。

Description

一种高弹乱麻织物的染整加工工艺 技术领域
本发明属于纺织品印染技术领域，特别涉及一种高弹乱麻织物的染整加工工艺。
背景技术
近年来，随着国内消费升级以及科技进步，市场对弹性织物的需求逐渐增多。而在生产和使用过程中，传统弹力纤维氨纶逐渐暴露出一些问题，如染整温度过高，易造成织物弹性损失；纱线包覆不理想，氨纶丝外露，氨纶纤维未上染而露白，导致织物上存在发光点。氨纶纤维已逐渐无法满足当前多元化的产业需求，因此研发氨纶可替代升级产品，已在全球范围内的科研机构及大型企业广泛开展。
作为聚酯类并列复合纤维，SSY弹性纤维内部沿纵向上，其两种组分聚合物不对称分列于纤维两侧。由于各组分的微观形态结构不同，经湿热处理后，会产生不同程度的收缩，使纤维在产生强烈的纵向应力的同时，又产生偏离纵轴的扭转，从而使纤维呈现永久的三维卷曲，具有优秀的弹性伸长和弹性回复率。CEY弹力复合纤维则是复合了SSY弹性纤维原料，经特殊复合工艺加工形成的新型弹力复合纤维。它是针对氨纶在纺织品应用中受到一定的限制而研制成的一种新型弹性纤维，不仅具有SSY弹力纤维的特性，优异的弹性和弹性回复性，且手感柔软、抗污蓬松、耐日晒、耐氯、吸湿快干性良好。CEY弹力复合纤维加工成高弹乱麻织物后，布面平整滑爽、抗皱免烫、尺寸稳定、吸湿快干、弹性适度、服用性佳，是一种新型功能性纺织用材料。该产品的问世，缓解了原来氨纶弹力织物的弱点和不足，如后整理忌氯漂、不易定形、弹性不稳 定、不易打理、易起泡、弹性过剩、透气性差等。
高弹乱麻织物的染整加工工艺，主要包括前处理工艺、染色工艺和定型工艺。高弹乱麻织物在织造加工过程中，纱线受到较大张力和摩擦，易发生断裂，为了减少断裂，提高织造效率和坯布质量，需要对经纱进行上浆、上油剂及其他药剂处理。但浆料有利于织造却不利于染整，表面覆盖的浆膜会阻碍染色过程中染料向纤维内部扩散。杂质污物如不除去，不但影响织物手感、色泽，而且影响织物的吸湿性能，使织物上色不均匀、色泽不鲜艳，还影响染色牢度。而且，织物较硬挺，手感僵硬粗糙，不能很好的满足服用要求。因此，在染色前，制定合理的前处理工艺，显得尤为重要。如果前处理工艺或者参数使用不当，不仅无法保证织物的柔软度，而且也影响后续的染色质量。
而对于高弹乱麻织物的染色工艺方面，传统液流喷射染色机存在大浴比、高能耗、高排污、低效率等缺陷，特别是大浴比容易导致高排污，使得印染企业不仅要投入大量资金进行治理，而且也对我国的水资源和生态环境构成严重威胁。相对于传统染色技术，气流染色利用高速气流将染料气化成雾状，雾化的染料分子具有高动能和渗透力，通过高速“泳移”，提高产品的匀染度，缩短染色时间，不易产生色花和染色折痕。由于在染色过程中，无需借助于水介质输送，大大减少了染料、化学助剂及能源的消耗量，符合了当前“环保、节能、减排、高效”的现代纺织发展要求。
根据以上所述，针对高弹乱麻织物自身特点，需要采用新型染色机，并通过制定合适的前处理及染色工艺，从而在保证染色质量的前提下，达到节能减排的效果，并且赋予织物自然绉感和良好的吸湿透气性、回弹性。
发明内容
为解决上述技术问题，本发明的目的在于提供一种高弹乱麻织物的染整加工工艺，其根据织物自身特性，通过制定合适的前处理工艺、染色工艺以及定型工艺，使得在保证染色质量的前提下，不仅可以使加工后的织物无绉印、擦伤等病疵，而且织物色彩重现性好，手感柔软，弹力效果明显，满足相关服用要求。
为实现上述技术目的，达到上述技术效果，本发明通过以下技术方案实现：一种高弹乱麻织物的染整加工工艺，该染整加工工艺包括前处理工艺、染色工艺和定型工艺，所述前处理工艺包括依次进行的平幅退浆工艺、机缸练布工艺、预定型工艺和松式碱减量工艺，该染整加工工艺的步骤如下：
(1)前处理工艺：
平幅退浆工艺，采用平幅退浆机对织物坯布进行退浆处理，该平幅退浆工艺所采用的退浆助剂配方如下：
液碱                     40～60g/L，
长车快速退浆剂TF-127HA   1～2g/L，
三聚磷酸纳               1～2g/L；
机缸练布工艺，将经过平幅退浆处理的织物坯布进行煮练处理，该机缸练布工艺所采用的煮练助剂配方如下：
纯碱              25～30g/L，
去油灵TF101       1～2g/L，
双氧水            3～5g/L；
预定型工艺，采用预定型机对经过机缸练布工艺处理的织物坯布进行预定型处理，预定型温度为200℃；
松式碱减量工艺，利用碱液对经过预定型的织物坯布进行碱减量处理，其中，碱液中的液碱浓度为40g/L，处理温度为95℃；
(2)染色工艺：
对经过前处理的织物坯布进行染色处理，所述染色工艺所采用的染色剂是由染色助剂和染料组成，染料为分散染料，该染色工艺采用高温高压气流染色机进行染色，在染色机的染缸温度达到45℃时开始分别注入染色助剂和分散染料，染浴的PH值为5～6；
(3)定型工艺：
该定型工艺通过定型机并利用定型处理液对染色后的织物坯布进行定型处理。
优选的，在机缸练布工艺中，向机缸中加入煮练助剂后，机缸温度以0.8℃/min的升温速度升温至85℃，保温10min，再以1.0℃/min的升温速度升温至125℃，保温50min，然后以1.2℃/min的降温速度降温至70℃，然后进入水洗阶段，水洗阶段是将织物坯布在60℃的温度下进行中温水洗，中温水洗时间为15min，然后再进行常温水洗。
优选的，在染色工艺中，染缸温度以1.0℃/min的升温速度升温至90℃，保温5min，再以1.0℃/min的升温速度升温至110℃，保温5min，然后以1.0℃/min的升温速度升温至130℃，保温70min，再以1.2℃/min的降温速度降温至70℃，然后进入水洗阶段，水洗阶段是将染色后的织物坯布在60℃的温度下进行中温水洗，中温水洗时间为15min，然后再进行常温水洗。
优选的，所述染色工艺中的染色助剂包括冰醋酸、环保修补剂DM-2124和新型浴中宝M-288，该三种染色助剂在染色剂中的用量如下：
冰醋酸              0.8g/L
环保修补剂DM-2124   0.4g/L
新型浴中宝M-288     1.2g/L。
优选的，所述染色工艺的染色剂中的染料包括以下组分：
分散黄E-GL           0.82％owf
分散红玉SE-2GF       1.4％owf。
优选的，所述平幅退浆工艺的温度条件为80-85℃，车速为40-45m/min。
优选的，所述预定型工艺的工艺条件为：预定型车速为45m/min，预定型风机速度为1200r/min。
优选的，所述染色工艺的浴比为1：4。
优选的，在染色工艺中，染色机的工艺参数为：主泵的输出频率为40Hz，风机的输出频率为32.5Hz，提布轮的输出频率为36Hz。
优选的，定型工艺所使用的定型处理液中每升定型处理液含有20克抗静电剂GH-580和10克柔软剂。
本发明与现有技术相比具有下列优点和效果：
(1)本发明采用高温高压气流染色机进行染色加工，平均每缸水耗可以减少50％，汽耗减少57.14％，节能减排效果明显；
(2)本发明的染色工艺根据高弹乱麻织物的特点，设计合理的染色温度曲线、染色机的参数设计、染浴比和染浴PH，极大的提高了织物的上染百分率，使得织物的色彩鲜艳度达到最佳，染色后的织物与客户来样对比，具有较好的色彩重新性，而且不会损伤织物，使染色后的织物无绉印、擦伤等病疵；
(3)本发明通过设计合理的前处理工艺，可以有效的去除织物的浆料、油 剂、污渍等，使布面平整，门幅达到要求，提高尺寸稳定性，利于后续加工，且使织物手感柔软，满足服用要求；
(4)本发明通过前处理工艺、染色工艺、定型工艺的合理设计，不仅可以提高织物的染色效果，使织物的染色均匀性和色牢度满足客户要求，而且不会破坏织物的弹力，使织物具备较好的形变记忆性，同时又使织物手感柔软，尺寸稳定性好。
附图说明
图1为本发明的机缸练布工艺中的煮练温度工艺曲线。
图2为本发明的染色工艺中的染色温度工艺曲线。
具体实施方式
下面结合附图对本发明的较佳实施例进行详细阐述，以使本发明的优点和特征能更易于被本领域技术人员理解，从而对本发明的保护范围做出更为清楚明确的界定。
实施例
织物坯布：幅宽206cm，216g/cm 3。
该实施例所采用的染料、各种助剂以及使用的设备的厂家及型号如下：
染料 分散黄E-GL、分散红玉SE-2GF，均生产于浙江龙盛集团股份有限公司；
助剂 长车快速退浆剂TF-127HA、去油灵TF101、环保修补剂DM-2124、新型浴中宝M-288、抗静电剂GH-580，均生产于浙江传化股份有限公司；
设备 OS-9V12000平幅退浆机(台湾鸿荣染整机械设备有限公司)；XH-800松式碱减量机(无锡翔宏染整设备有限公司)；STF3-2HT高温高压气流染色机 (德意佳机械(江苏)设备有限公司)；MEGATE III定型机(韩国美光机械株式有限公司)；RVMC-12玛诺光电整纬机(德国Mahlo公司)。
本实施例所提供的高弹乱麻织物的染整加工工艺，包括前处理工艺、染色工艺和定型工艺，前处理工艺包括依次进行的平幅退浆工艺、机缸练布工艺、预定型工艺和松式碱减量工艺，该染整加工工艺的具体步骤如下：
(1)前处理工艺：
平幅退浆工艺，采用平幅退浆机对织物坯布进行退浆处理，该平幅退浆工艺所采用的退浆助剂配方如下：
液碱                     45g/L，
长车快速退浆剂TF-127HA   2g/L，
三聚磷酸纳               2g/L；
平幅退浆工艺的温度条件为85℃，车速为40m/min。
在热碱条件下，配合液碱槽中振荡器的高频率震荡作用，TF-127HA退浆剂可将织物表面的浆料乳化分解，进而使浆料从织物上脱落。作为对金属离子具有良好螯合作用的三聚磷酸钠，其可以在退浆时防止浆料反沾，且兼具软化水的效果。经平幅退浆处理，高弹乱麻织物表面的浆料、油剂、污渍等可基本除去，织物也得到松弛预缩，内部应力消除。此外布面平整，接触表面积增加，有利于后续生产加工。
织物经平幅退浆处理后，布面上仍有少量浆料、油渍等的残留，因此需对其进行煮练处理以彻底去除，达到初步收缩的效果。
机缸练布工艺，将经过平幅退浆处理的织物坯布进行煮练处理，该机缸练布工艺所采用的煮练助剂配方如下：
纯碱              25g/L，
去油灵TF101       2g/L，
双氧水            4g/L。
该机缸练布工艺的温度曲线如图1所示。如图1所示，在机缸练布工艺中，机缸温度以0.8℃/min的升温速度升温至85℃，保温10min，再以1.0℃/min的升温速度升温至125℃，保温50min，然后以1.2℃/min的降温速度降温至70℃，然后进入水洗阶段，水洗阶段是将织物坯布在60℃的温度下进行中温水洗，中温水洗时间为15min，然后再进行常温水洗。常温水洗可以为两道，每道常温水洗的时间为5min。
高弹乱麻的机缸炼布处理，在按照上述温度曲线进行的前提下，仍需要根据实际生产情况，进行适度的调节和处理，如升降温过程中布面出现直条绉，可回缸适度保温一下；在该工艺中，一道热水和两道常温水洗如果不能将布面处理干净，可增加洗涤，避免碱残留影响后续过程中的升温染色，避免布面形成色斑之类。
预定型工艺，采用预定型机对经过机缸练布工艺处理的织物坯布进行预定型处理，预定型温度为200℃，预定型车速为45m/min，预定型风机速度为1200r/min。经过预定型工艺处理后，织物坯布的幅宽为140cm。
对高弹乱麻织物进行预定形处理，旨在提高其门幅稳定性，使织物在湿热作用下，分子链段经过重排，可消除纤维内分子间的作用力，有利于后续染色。
松式碱减量工艺，在松式碱减量机中，利用碱液对经过预定型的织物坯布进行碱减量处理，其中，碱液中的液碱浓度为40g/L，处理温度为95℃，处理时间为2.5h。
(2)染色工艺：
对经过前处理的织物坯布进行染色处理，所述染色工艺所采用的染色剂是由染色助剂和染料组成，染料为分散染料。在本实施例中，染色助剂包括冰醋酸、环保修补剂DM-2124、新型浴中宝M-288。分散染料包括分散黄E-GL和分散红玉SE-2GF。该染色工艺中的染色剂的具体配方如下：
Figure PCTCN2019118861-appb-000001
染色工艺的浴比为1：4；染色机的工艺参数为：主泵的输出频率为40Hz，风机的输出频率为32.5Hz，提布轮的输出频率为36Hz。染浴的PH值为5～6。
该染色工艺采用高温高压气流染色机进行染色，如图2所示，在染色机的染缸温度达到45℃时开始分别注入染色助剂和分散染料，然后，染缸温度以1.0℃/min的升温速度升温至90℃，保温5min，再以1.0℃/min的升温速度升温至110℃，保温5min，然后以1.0℃/min的升温速度升温至130℃，保温70min，再以1.2℃/min的降温速度降温至70℃，在70℃时进行对样，然后进入水洗阶段，水洗阶段是将染色后的织物坯布在60℃的温度下进行中温水洗，中温水洗时间为15min，然后再进行常温水洗，常温水洗可以为两道，每道常温水洗的时间为5min。
由于高弹乱麻的主要成分为聚酯，疏水性较强，根据“相似相容”定理，选用同样具有疏水性的分散染料和高温高压气流染色机进行染色加工。
上述染色工艺中，其中的分散染料中已添加了和染料几乎相同分量的分散 剂，因此染料基本上能均匀分散在染液中，形成稳定的悬浮液。其中，染浴pH值控制在5～6，可以使织物的上染百分率最高，色泽鲜艳度也最好。
由于聚酯类纤维的玻璃化温度在75℃左右，随着染色温度升高，链段运动加剧，分子逐渐打开，溶解在染液中的分散染料开始逐步扩散并上染到织物上。染料的扩散系数随温度升高逐渐增大，温度越高，扩散也越快，但温度过高不仅对设备要求高，而且对织物的损伤也较大。因此，选择130℃进行保温上色。
(3)定型工艺：
该定型工艺通过定型机并利用定型处理液对染色后的织物坯布进行定型处理。定型工艺所使用的定型处理液中每升定型处理液含有20克抗静电剂GH-580和10克柔软剂。
高弹乱麻织物在高温高压气流染色机中进行绳状松式染色加工时，织物门幅会有一定的收缩，因此对其进行定形加工。从而，在外力作用下，随着温度升高，分子链段重组，取向度和结晶度升高，可获得较稳定的尺寸稳定性。经过定型处理后，织物幅宽为150cm。定型处理液中的抗静电剂赋予织物抗静电效果，柔软剂进一步改善织物的手感。
定型工艺条件：
所述定型工艺的定型温度为180℃，车速为40m/min，风机转速为1400r/min，定型机打4个正超喂。
染色效果
经高温高压气流染色机染色加工后，织物生产样和客户来样色相吻合，满足客户要求。原有白坯纤维间稀疏的结构，也变得密集，手感和弹性获得大幅提升。
染色能耗
根据生产反馈，分别采用高温高压气流染色机和高温高压溢流染色机进行生产，能耗如表1所示：
表1不同生产设备的平均能耗
Figure PCTCN2019118861-appb-000002
由表1可看出，随着气流缸的普及和推广，气流染色机的平均水耗可较溢流染色机减少12t/缸左右，即完成单位缸的生产，气流染色机可节省水50％；气流染色机的平均汽耗较溢流染色机减少0.4m 3/缸，即完成单位缸生产，可节省蒸汽耗用57.14％。此外，气流染色机由于更小的浴比和耗水量，还可大幅减少染料和助剂用量。气流染色机生产加工对节能减排具有十分重要的意义。
高弹乱麻织物采用并列复合弹性纤维，其生产加工程序必须考虑幅宽变化对染色、定形的影响。本发明通过设计合理的工艺过程，不仅可以减少色差、绉印的存在，还可以提升织物的服用稳定性。
本发明通过设计合理的前处理工艺，可以有效的去除织物的浆料、油剂、污渍等，使布面平整，利于后续加工，且使织物手感柔软，满足服用要求。
本发明采用高温高压气流染色机进行染色加工，可满足客户要求，色相吻合，且织物弹性和手感好。
另外，本发明采用高温高压气流染色机进行染色加工，平均每缸水耗可以减少50％，汽耗减少57.14％，节能减排效果明显。
以上所述仅为本发明的实施例，并非因此限制本发明的专利范围，凡是利用本发明说明书及附图内容所作的等效结构或等效流程变换，或直接或间接运 用在其他相关的技术领域，均同理包括在本发明的专利保护范围内。

Claims (10)

  1. 一种高弹乱麻织物的染整加工工艺，其特征在于：该染整加工工艺包括前处理工艺、染色工艺和定型工艺，所述前处理工艺包括依次进行的平幅退浆工艺、机缸练布工艺、预定型工艺和松式碱减量工艺，该染整加工工艺的步骤如下：
    (1)前处理工艺：
    平幅退浆工艺，采用平幅退浆机对织物坯布进行退浆处理，该平幅退浆工艺所采用的退浆助剂配方如下：
    液碱                     40～60g/L，
    长车快速退浆剂TF-127HA   1～2g/L，
    三聚磷酸纳               1～2g/L；
    机缸练布工艺，将经过平幅退浆处理的织物坯布进行煮练处理，该机缸练布工艺所采用的煮练助剂配方如下：
    纯碱              25～30g/L，
    去油灵TF101       1～2g/L，
    双氧水            3～5g/L；
    预定型工艺，采用预定型机对经过机缸练布工艺处理的织物坯布进行预定型处理，预定型温度为200℃；
    松式碱减量工艺，利用碱液对经过预定型的织物坯布进行碱减量处理，其中，碱液中的液碱浓度为40g/L，处理温度为95℃；
    (2)染色工艺：
    对经过前处理的织物坯布进行染色处理，所述染色工艺所采用的染色剂是由染色助剂和染料组成，染料为分散染料，该染色工艺采用高温高压气流染色机进行染色，在染色机的染缸温度达到45℃时开始分别注入染色助剂和分散染料，染浴的PH值为5～6；
    (3)定型工艺：
    该定型工艺通过定型机并利用定型处理液对染色后的织物坯布进行定型处理。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的一种高弹乱麻织物的染整加工工艺，其特征在于：在机缸练布工艺中，向机缸中加入煮练助剂后，机缸温度以0.8℃/min的升温速度升温至85℃，保温10min，再以1.0℃/min的升温速度升温至125℃，保温50min，然后以1.2℃/min的降温速度降温至70℃，然后进入水洗阶段，水洗阶段是将织物坯布在60℃的温度下进行中温水洗，中温水洗时间为15min，然后再进行常温水洗。
  3. 根据权利要求1所述的一种高弹乱麻织物的染整加工工艺，其特征在于：在染色工艺中，染缸温度以1.0℃/min的升温速度升温至90℃，保温5min，再以1.0℃/min的升温速度升温至110℃，保温5min，然后以1.0℃/min的升温速度升温至130℃，保温70min，再以1.2℃/min的降温速度降温至70℃，然后进入水洗阶段，水洗阶段是将染色后的织物坯布在60℃的温度下进行中温水洗，中温水洗时间为15min，然后再进行常温水洗。
  4. 根据权利要求1所述的一种高弹乱麻织物的染整加工工艺，其特征在于：所述染色工艺中的染色助剂包括冰醋酸、环保修补剂DM-2124和新型浴中宝 M-288，该三种染色助剂在染色剂中的用量如下：
    冰醋酸              0.8g/L
    环保修补剂DM-2124   0.4g/L
    新型浴中宝M-288     1.2g/L。
  5. 根据权利要求1所述的一种高弹乱麻织物的染整加工工艺，其特征在于：所述染色工艺的染色剂中的染料包括以下组分：
    分散黄E-GL           0.82％owf
    分散红玉SE-2GF       1.4％owf。
  6. 根据权利要求1所述的一种高弹乱麻织物的染整加工工艺，其特征在于：所述平幅退浆工艺的温度条件为80-85℃，车速为40-45m/min。
  7. 根据权利要求1所述的一种高弹乱麻织物的染整加工工艺，其特征在于：所述预定型工艺的工艺条件为：预定型车速为45m/min，预定型风机速度为1200r/min。
  8. 根据权利要求1所述的一种高弹乱麻织物的染整加工工艺，其特征在于：所述染色工艺的浴比为1：4。
  9. 根据权利要求1所述的一种高弹乱麻织物的染整加工工艺，其特征在于：在染色工艺中，染色机的工艺参数为：主泵的输出频率为40Hz，风机的输出频率为32.5Hz，提布轮的输出频率为36Hz。
  10. 根据权利要求1所述的一种高弹乱麻织物的染整加工工艺，其特征在于：定型工艺所使用的定型处理液中每升定型处理液含有20克抗静电剂GH-580和10克柔软剂。
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