CN109322178A - 一种涤/纤维素纤维交织提花面料的染整加工方法 - Google Patents

一种涤/纤维素纤维交织提花面料的染整加工方法 Download PDF

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CN109322178A
CN109322178A CN201811137729.8A CN201811137729A CN109322178A CN 109322178 A CN109322178 A CN 109322178A CN 201811137729 A CN201811137729 A CN 201811137729A CN 109322178 A CN109322178 A CN 109322178A
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working solution
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fabric
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胡青青
陈红霞
陆鹏
袁洪胜
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Jiangsu Goldsun Textile Science and Technology Co Ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种涤/纤维素纤维交织提花面料的染整加工方法，依次包括前处理、染色和后整理3个步骤，具体地，先将坯布浸在工作液中进行碱氧一步法退煮漂，调节氧漂工作液pH至5.0‑9.0，加入除氧酶除氧，然后向工作液中加入pH稳定剂以维持染液pH值在8‑10.5，依次加入分散染料和活性染料进行染色，染色结束后进行皂洗和水洗，洗掉活性染料浮色，之后按常规柔软整理进行。该加工方法不仅节水节能节时，减排降耗，而且生产工艺简单，操作容易，生产效率高。

Description

一种涤/纤维素纤维交织提花面料的染整加工方法
技术领域
本发明属于家用纺织品技术领域，具体涉及一种涤/纤维素纤维交织提花面料的染整加工方法。
背景技术
涤/纤维素纤维交织提花面料作为家纺床品面料而言，色彩艳丽多样，具有较好的装饰效果，赢得人们的青睐。在传统的涤/纤维素面料印染加工中，前处理的退浆、精练都是在碱性条件下进行的，而分散染料的染色却是在酸性条件下进行的；高温高压染色时，织物上残留的浆料、油剂、染色助剂以及涤纶纤维低聚物均易引起织物染色不匀，严重时还会出现焦油状染斑。为了避免这些问题的产生，在生产过程中需要不断的进行水洗、排液、补充新鲜的工作液等，整个生产工序长，生产效率低，水资源和能源的消耗量大，不利于节能环保。在当下环保日趋严峻和原料上涨的情况下，缩短工艺，减少废水排放和降低能源消耗，能给染厂带来较强的竞争力。
CN107476081一种聚酯纤维-纤维素纤维混合纺织品的染整工艺公开了一种聚酯纤维-纤维素纤维混合纺织品的染整工艺。该染整工艺包括下述步骤：(1)精炼-漂白前处理：将聚酯纤维-纤维素纤维混合纺织品浸入前处理液中进行精炼-漂白前处理；(2)染色：直接加入分散染料、耐高温活性染料、碱剂和分散染料均染剂得到染液，进行染色；所述的分散染料为安诺可隆HA系列染料中的一种或多种；(3)后处理：第一道水洗，皂洗，第二道水洗。该专利申请在有益效果中指出染整工艺节能节时，减排降耗，而且生产工艺简单，操作容易，生产效率高。然而，该染色工艺中，分散染料颜色单一、暗淡，且在染色过程中，工作液的pH波动性较大，对分散染料上染率有较大的影响，易造成面料批次之间的色差，影响面料颜色的重现性，返修率偏高。
因此，设计开发一种工艺简单，操作容易，生产效率高，既节水节能，又能获得高染色性能的染整工艺是非常有必要的。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于克服现有技术中存在的染整工艺水资源和能源的消耗量大，不利于节能环保的缺陷，提供了一种涤/纤维素纤维交织提花面料节水短流程染整加工方法，该加工方法不仅节水节能节时，减排降耗，而且生产工艺简单，操作容易，生产效率高。
一种涤/纤维素纤维交织提花面料节水短流程染整加工方法，包括以下步骤：
步骤1，前处理，将坯布浸在工作液中进行碱氧一步法退煮漂，调节氧漂工作液pH至5.0-9.0，加入除氧酶除氧；
步骤2，染色，向步骤1的工作液中加入pH稳定剂以维持染液pH值在8-10.5，依次加入分散染料和活性染料进行染色，染色结束后进行皂洗和水洗，洗掉活性染料浮色；
步骤3，后整理，按常规柔软整理进行。
进一步地，步骤1中碱氧一步法退煮漂是先将坯布浸在工作液中，升温至80℃，加入100％双氧水4g/L，继续升温至95℃，保温处理80min；所述工作液含有烧碱2g/L、双氧水稳定剂8g/L、螯合分散剂4g/L。
进一步地，步骤1中除氧酶除氧是加入除氧酶1-2g/L，40-60℃处理10-20min。
进一步地，所述分散染料选择具有含蒽醌母体结构、含噻唑母体结构或含偶氮母体结构的染料，且所述含蒽醌母体结构、含噻唑母体结构和含偶氮母体结构的染料中均不含酯基、酰胺基、亚酰胺基、二羧酰亚胺和苯基氰基。
具体地，所述不含酯基、酰胺基、亚酰胺基、二羧酰亚胺和苯基氰基的蒽醌母体结构染料有：C.I.分散红3，C.I.分散红4，C.I.分散红15，C.I.分散红22，C.I.分散红55，C.I.分散红59，C.I.分散红60，C.I.分散红70，C.I.分散红75，C.I.分散红91，C.I.分散蓝1，C.I.分散蓝3，C.I.分散蓝7，C.I.分散蓝14，C.I.分散蓝22，C.I.分散蓝23，C.I.分散蓝26，C.I.分散蓝27，C.I.分散蓝34，C.I.分散蓝56，C.I.分散蓝72，C.I.分散黄92。所述不含酯基、酰胺基、亚酰胺基、二羧酰亚胺、苯基氰基的偶氮母体结构染料有：C.I.分散红1，C.I.分散红2，C.I.分散红5，C.I.分散红7，C.I.分散红8，C.I.分散红13，C.I.分散红16，C.I.分散红17，C.I.分散红19，C.I.分散红30，C.I.分散红97，C.I.分散红98，C.I.分散红107,C.I.分散蓝85,C.I.分散黄23,C.I.分散橙3,C.I.分散橙13,C.I.分散橙7，C.I.分散黑3，C.I.分散黑9，，C.I.分散黑10。所述不含酯基、酰胺基、亚酰胺基、二羧酰亚胺、苯基氰基的噻唑母体结构染料有：C.I.分散红58，C.I.分散红64，C.I.分散蓝96，C.I.分散蓝102。
进一步地，所述pH稳定剂以重量百分比计由四硼酸钠30-40％、磷酸二氢钠5-10％、磷酸氢二钠15-30％和甘氨酸30-40％组成，所有组分的重量百分比之和为100％。
进一步地，步骤2中分散染料染色的工艺为：浴比为1:12，始染温度为70℃，升温速率2℃/min，升温至90℃时保温0.5h；继续升温至110℃，升温速率为1℃/min，110℃保温0.5h；继续升温至130℃，升温速率0.5℃/min，130℃保温染色时间为2h。
本发明的染整加工方法只需将坯布依次经过前处理、染色和后整理三步工序即可，在前处理中不必水洗就直接进行染色，染色工序包括分散染色和活性染色，在碱性条件下，分散染料可对涤纶上染，而分散染色结束后不必排液就直接进入活性染色，减少了各个环节废水的排放和降低能源的消耗，实现短流程生产。采用本发明的染整加工方法，得到的面料柔软，加工过程中防止环状齐聚物发生而造成色斑的风险，降低了由前处理造成的一些染疵。在前处理过程中，一般都是高温常压的情况下进行，很容易出现退浆不尽、精练不足等情况，面料上会残留油剂、小分子低聚物。然而，在用分散染料染涤纶时，一般由于涤纶纤维的特性，分散染料主要在高温高压下进行，此时涤纶纤维内部的低聚物会迁移到纤维表面；然而分散染料染涤纶主要是在酸性条件下进行，此时低聚物会在酸性条件下析出而沉积在面料表面而造成沾污。但在碱性条件下，如果分散染料中含有酯基、酰胺基、亚酰胺基、二羧酰亚胺、苯基氰基、氰基等基团，则会造成这些基团的水解而是染料变色。
本发明中，通过优选分散染料，当面料退浆结束后，直接进行分散染料碱性染色，即使过程中出现齐聚物，在碱性条件下，也能很好的将其水解成可溶性的小分子而分散于水中，从而避免色斑的产生。与此同时，由于活性染料染纤维素时，也在碱性条件下进行，因此可以不用排液而直接进行染色。
具体实施方式
实施例1
面料规格：105‘’/涤75D*棉32s/190*90，雪青色
将上述坯布依次经过如下工序：
1、前处理工序
(1)碱氧一步法退煮漂
在染缸中进行前处理，将温度升温至50℃，加入烧碱2g/L，双氧水稳定剂8g/L，螯合分散剂4g/L，然后继续升温至80℃，加入100％双氧水4g/L，继续升温至95℃，保温处理80min。
(2)除氧酶除氧
调节氧漂后工作液的pH值为7.9，向工作液中加入1g/L除氧酶DM-8697，40-60℃处理10-20min。
2、染色
染色工序包括分散染色和活性染色，其中分散染色结束后不必排液直接进入活性染色。
(1)在前处理工序步骤(2)完成后，向工作液中加入pH稳定剂，维持整个染色工序中染液pH值在10；pH稳定剂由35％四硼酸钠、10％磷酸二氢钠、15％磷酸氢二钠和40％甘氨酸组成的混合物。
(2)分散染色：在染缸中染色，浴比为1:12(o.w.f)，始染温度为70℃，升温速率2℃/min，升温至90℃时保温0.5h；继续升温至110℃，升温速率为1℃/min，110℃保温0.5h；继续升温至130℃，升温速率0.5℃/min，130℃保温染色时间为2h。其中青莲2R-E(C.I.分散蓝96)用量1.1％(o.w.f)，黄F3G-E(C.I.分散黄92)用量0.35％(o.w.f)，湖蓝G-F S 200(C.I.分散蓝72)用量0.55％(o.w.f)。染色结束后，无需还原清洗及水洗。
(3)待分散染色完成后，将工作液温度降温至60℃，向工作液中加入活性染料进行染色，保温染色45min,待染色结束后进行皂洗和水洗，洗掉活性染料浮色后，出缸，烘干。其中，皂洗工艺为80℃皂洗15min,皂片5g/L；水洗工艺为80℃热水洗15min；其中染料用量为诺威克隆C-2BL红0.31％(o.w.f)，诺威克隆C-2R黄0.23％(o.w.f)。
3、后处理
柔软工艺：定型温度150℃，车速40m/min，工作液处方：蓬松型柔软剂10g/L，平滑性柔软剂20g/L。
轧光工艺：车速25m/min，温度100℃，压力2kg。
实施例2
面料规格：105”/棉40s*涤150D/173*80，铁锈红色
将上述坯布依次经过如下工序：
1、前处理工序
(1)碱氧一步法退煮漂
在染缸中进行前处理，将温度升温至50℃，加入烧碱5g/L，双氧水稳定剂10g/L，螯合分散剂6g/L，然后继续升温至80℃，加入100％双氧水5g/L，继续升温至95℃，保温处理80min。
(2)除氧酶除氧；
调节氧漂后工作液的pH值为8.8，向工作液中加入2g/L除氧酶DM-8697，40-60℃处理10-20min。
2、染色
染色工序包括分散染色和活性染色，其中分散染色结束后不必排液直接进入活性染色。
(1)在前处理工序步骤(2)完成后，向工作液中加入pH稳定剂，维持整个染色工序中染液pH值在10；pH稳定剂由40％四硼酸钠、10％磷酸二氢钠、15％磷酸氢二钠和35％甘氨酸组成的混合物。
(2)分散染色：在染缸中染色，浴比为1:12(o.w.f)，始染温度为70℃，升温速率2℃/min，升温至90℃时保温0.5h；继续升温至110℃，升温速率为1℃/min，110℃保温0.5h；继续升温至130℃，升温速率0.5℃/min，130℃保温染色时间为2h。其中大红RGSL-FS 133(C.I.分散红64)用量1.34％(o.w.f)，橙S-GF(C.I.分散橙3)用量0.41％(o.w.f)。染色结束后，无需还原清洗及水洗。
(3)待分散染色完成后，将工作液温度降温至60℃，向工作液中加入活性染料进行染色，待染色结束后进行皂洗和水洗，洗掉活性染料浮色后，出缸，烘干。其中，皂洗工艺为80℃皂洗15min,皂片5g/L；水洗工艺为80℃热水洗15min；其中染料用量为诺威克隆C-2BL红用量0.52％(o.w.f)，诺威克隆C-2R黄用量0.31％(o.w.f)，诺威克隆蓝C-5X用量0.43％(o.w.f)。
3、后处理
柔软工艺：定型温度150℃，车速40m/min，工作液处方：蓬松型柔软剂10g/L，平滑性柔软剂20g/L。
轧光工艺：车速25m/min，温度100℃，压力2kg。
实施例3
面料规格：105”/棉60s*涤150D/173*110，素灰色
将上述坯布依次经过如下工序：
1、前处理工序
(1)碱氧一步法退煮漂
在染缸中进行前处理，将温度升温至50℃，加入烧碱3g/L，双氧水稳定剂10g/L，螯合分散剂6g/L，然后继续升温至80℃，加入100％双氧水6g/L，继续升温至95℃，保温处理80min。
(2)除氧酶除氧；
调节氧漂后工作液的pH值为8.5，向工作液中加入2g/L除氧酶DM-8697，40-60℃处理20min。
2、染色
染色工序包括分散染色和活性染色，其中分散染色结束后不必排液直接进入活性染色。
(1)在前处理工序步骤(2)完成后，向工作液中加入pH稳定剂，维持整个染色工序中染液pH值在10；pH稳定剂由40％四硼酸钠、5％磷酸二氢钠、15％磷酸氢二钠和40％甘氨酸组成的混合物。
(2)分散染色：在染缸中染色，浴比为1:12(o.w.f)，始染温度为70℃，升温速率2℃/min，升温至90℃时保温0.5h；继续升温至110℃，升温速率为1℃/min，110℃保温0.5h；继续升温至130℃，升温速率0.5℃/min，130℃保温染色时间为2h。其中蓝BG-FS200(C.I.分散蓝34)用量0.58％(o.w.f)，蓝R-SE(C.I.分散蓝22)用量0.43％(o.w.f)，红E-G(C.I.分散红16)用量0.67％(o.w.f)。染色结束后，无需还原清洗及水洗。
(3)待分散染色完成后，将工作液温度降温至60℃，向工作液中加入活性染料进行染色，待染色结束后进行皂洗和水洗，洗掉活性染料浮色后，出缸，烘干。其中，皂洗工艺为80℃皂洗15min,皂片5g/L；水洗工艺为80℃热水洗15min；其中染料用量为诺威克隆C-2BL红用量0.47％(o.w.f)，诺威克隆C-2R黄用量0.12％(o.w.f)，诺威克隆蓝C-5X用量0.56％(o.w.f)。
3、后处理
柔软工艺：定型温度150℃，车速40m/min，工作液处方：蓬松型柔软剂10g/L，平滑性柔软剂20g/L。
轧光工艺：车速25m/min，温度100℃，压力2kg。
对照例1
与实施例1的区别在于：所采用分散染料中含有酯基。如分散大红S-3GFL(分散红54)，海军蓝S-2GL(分散蓝79)，KLW-30(分散橙90)。
对照例2
与实施例1的区别在于：所采用分散染料中含有二羧酰亚胺。如分散蓝S-GL(分散蓝60)。
对照例3
与实施例1的区别在于：所采用分散染料中含有酰胺基。如分散红S-BWFL(分散红74)。
对照例4
与实施例1的区别在于：所采用分散染料中含有苯基氰基。如分散红玉SE-GFL(分散红73)。
对照例5
与实施例1的区别在于：未采用pH稳定剂，采用氢氧化钠或碳酸钠中的一种或两种。分散染料期初染色pH值为10，分散染料染色结束后的pH值为8.3。
对照例6
与实施例1的区别在于：分散染料染浴pH为4-6，采用醋酸和醋酸铵作为pH缓冲剂。
表1各实施方式工艺对面料相关指标的影响
从表中可以看出，当分散染料母体结构染料中含酯基、酰胺基、亚酰胺基、二羧酰亚胺、苯基氰基，面料出现的色差较大。主要是因为这些基团在碱性条件下发生了不同程度的水解，进而造成面料色光发生变化。对照例5中染浴直接采用强碱剂，分散染料工作液前后变化较大，分散染料上染率波动较大，进而造成面料色差较大，同时，由于染料未能全部上染，造成棉部分吸附了较多的浮色，最终导致牢度降低。对照例6中，工作液为酸性，分散染料染色时，涤纶上的低聚物会发生析出，沉积在布面形成微小的深色色点。

Claims (6)

1.一种涤/纤维素纤维交织提花面料的染整加工方法，其特征在于：包括以下步骤：
步骤1，前处理，将坯布浸在工作液中进行碱氧一步法退煮漂，调节氧漂工作液pH至5.0-9.0，加入除氧酶除氧；
步骤2，染色，向步骤1的工作液中加入pH稳定剂以维持染液pH值在8-10.5，依次加入分散染料和活性染料进行染色，染色结束后进行皂洗和水洗，洗掉活性染料浮色；
步骤3，后整理，按常规柔软整理进行。
2.根据权利要求1所述的染整加工方法，其特征在于：步骤1中碱氧一步法退煮漂是先将坯布浸在工作液中，升温至80℃，加入100%双氧水4g/L，继续升温至95℃，保温处理80min；所述工作液含有烧碱2g/L、双氧水稳定剂8g/L、螯合分散剂4g/L。
3.根据权利要求1所述的染整加工方法，其特征在于：步骤1中除氧酶除氧是加入除氧酶1-2g/L，40-60℃处理10-20min。
4.根据权利要求1所述的染整加工方法，其特征在于：所述分散染料选择具有含蒽醌母体结构、含噻唑母体结构或含偶氮母体结构的染料，且所述含蒽醌母体结构、含噻唑母体结构和含偶氮母体结构的染料中均不含酯基、酰胺基、亚酰胺基、二羧酰亚胺和苯基氰基。
5.根据权利要求1所述的染整加工方法，其特征在于：所述pH稳定剂以重量百分比计由四硼酸钠30-40%、磷酸二氢钠5-10%、磷酸氢二钠15-30%和甘氨酸30-40%组成，所有组分的重量百分比之和为100%。
6.根据权利要求1所述的染整加工方法，其特征在于：步骤2中分散染料染色的工艺为：浴比为1:12，始染温度为70℃，升温速率2℃/min，升温至90℃时保温0.5h；继续升温至110℃，升温速率为1℃/min，110℃保温0.5h；继续升温至130℃，升温速率0.5℃/min，130℃保温染色时间为2h。
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Application publication date: 20190212