WO2018196481A1 - 保湿化妆品组合物 - Google Patents

保湿化妆品组合物 Download PDF

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WO2018196481A1
WO2018196481A1 PCT/CN2018/078206 CN2018078206W WO2018196481A1 WO 2018196481 A1 WO2018196481 A1 WO 2018196481A1 CN 2018078206 W CN2018078206 W CN 2018078206W WO 2018196481 A1 WO2018196481 A1 WO 2018196481A1
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Prior art keywords
sodium hyaluronate
weight
composition
hydrolyzed sodium
moisturizing
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PCT/CN2018/078206
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
金鑫
赵仕芝
赵楼成
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养生堂（上海）化妆品研发有限公司
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Application filed by 养生堂（上海）化妆品研发有限公司 filed Critical 养生堂（上海）化妆品研发有限公司
Priority to KR1020197009630A priority Critical patent/KR102183865B1/ko
Priority to JP2018566250A priority patent/JP6656431B2/ja
Priority to US16/340,650 priority patent/US10799445B2/en
Priority to EP18790847.0A priority patent/EP3498259B1/en
Priority to ES18790847T priority patent/ES2843785T3/es
Publication of WO2018196481A1 publication Critical patent/WO2018196481A1/zh

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/735—Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/31—Anhydrous

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a moisturizing cosmetic composition
  • a moisturizing cosmetic composition comprising birch juice, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, and optional ingredients commonly used in skin care cosmetics, but does not comprise water which is usually added as a separate component.
  • Moisturizing is very important for maintaining skin health.
  • the traditional water-soluble moisturizing products on the market are still mainly composed of polyols and polymers. These ingredients can absorb the moisture in the air, but when the weather is dry, they will absorb the moisture in the skin and cannot be moisturized all day. Also, a large amount of minerals and trace elements that are beneficial for skin moisturization still cannot be added to ordinary cosmetics.
  • the moisturizing of the skin is mainly achieved by providing moisture to the stratum corneum.
  • the most important way to transport water to the stratum corneum is through aquaporin.
  • the opening of aquaporin is regulated by mineral ionic strength and calcium, magnesium and potassium ions, so it has a certain mineral ionic strength and is rich in calcium.
  • the environment of magnesium and potassium ions will facilitate the transport of moisture across the membrane to the stratum corneum, thereby increasing the moisture content of the skin.
  • Birch juice is made possible by the richness of natural mineral elements, which can completely replace the water in cosmetics.
  • the present invention attempts to use birch sap instead of water to promote the absorption of the above substances by the stratum corneum.
  • birch juice significantly promotes the transdermal absorption rate of hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, thereby achieving better moisturizing and other skin care effects.
  • Fig. 1 is a graph showing the moisturizing effect of Toner A of the present invention and Control B-D.
  • It is an object of the present invention to provide a moisturizing cosmetic composition comprising (A) 30-99% by weight of birch sap, (B) 0.001-5% by weight of hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, and (C) optionally An ingredient commonly used in skin care cosmetics, wherein the moisturizing cosmetic composition of the present invention does not contain water which is usually added as a separate component.
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention can significantly enhance the moisturizing skin care effect.
  • the skin care cosmetic composition of the present invention does not contain any added water, but does not exclude the moisture inherent in the birch juice used and the small or trace amount of water inevitably introduced in other ingredients.
  • a chelating agent such as EDTA salt, sodium polyphosphate, sodium metaphosphate or gluconic acid is not added to the moisturizing cosmetic composition of the present invention.
  • the present invention also relates to a method of increasing the transdermal absorption rate of hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate comprising adding birch juice to a moisturizing cosmetic composition comprising hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate but no water.
  • the method can significantly increase the transdermal absorption rate of hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, thereby achieving a significantly improved moisturizing effect.
  • the invention also relates to the use of a combination of birch juice and hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate in a moisturizing cosmetic composition that does not comprise water.
  • the birch trees involved in the present invention belong to the birch family of birch, and can be derived from three varieties of Betula alba, Betula Pendula and Betula platyphylla.
  • the collection time of the component (A) birch juice starts from the time when the snow begins to melt, and when the trees are placed, the hole is drilled on the birch trunk of 40-60 cm above the ground during the collection, and the liquid is placed in the liquid.
  • the equipment, birch juice is collected and filtered, and then sterilized by a conventional method to obtain a colorless and transparent, no precipitate, no debris, and has a nutrient-rich juice of birch fragrance.
  • the collected birch juice is not irradiated and no preservative is added to maximize the preservation of the nutrients of the birch juice.
  • the birch juice is commercially available and used as it is, for example, from Daxinganling Beyond Wild Berry Development Co., Ltd.
  • the moisturizing cosmetic composition of the present invention may comprise 30-99% by weight of birch juice, preferably 50-95% by weight, more preferably 70-90% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the component (B) hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate is a molecular fragment having a very small molecular weight prepared by digestion with sodium hyaluronate, and its molecular weight is usually 1-10 KDa, preferably 3-8 KDa, more preferably 5-7 KDa.
  • the above hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate can quickly penetrate below the stratum corneum to provide a long-lasting skin moisturizing effect.
  • the hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate can be prepared by a method known in the art, for example, first, sodium hyaluronate is prepared from a vegetable-derived medium (peptone, glucose, etc.) by a fermentation method, and hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate is prepared by enzymatic digestion. Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate is also commercially available, for example, commercially available from Huaxi Furida Biomedical Co., Ltd., which has a molecular weight of ⁇ 10 KDa.
  • the hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate used in the invention has the characteristics of small molecular weight and rapid penetration, and can directly reach the dermis layer to achieve deep water lock, hydration, promote cell proliferation and stimulate collagen production.
  • Hyaluronic acid can be used in acidic formulas, but it is easy to combine with the cations in the formula and cannot be stably present; ordinary sodium hyaluronate can only achieve surface moisturizing effect on the skin surface.
  • hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate can penetrate quickly, so the skin feels fresh and non-sticky, and the amount added in the composition can also be relatively large; Ordinary sodium hyaluronate should use its own network structure to absorb water on the surface of the skin. A small amount of moisturizing can also bring about a smooth feeling. When the amount is large, the skin feels sticky.
  • the moisturizing cosmetic composition of the present invention may comprise from 0.001 to 5% by weight of hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, preferably from 0.01 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the moisturizing cosmetic composition of the present invention optionally further comprises the components commonly used in the component (C) skin care cosmetic, including a vehicle, an active ingredient, a surfactant, an excipient, and the like.
  • Component (C) is known in the art, and those skilled in the art can specifically select the type and amount thereof as needed.
  • component (C) is present in the compositions of the invention at a level of from 0 to 65% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the vehicle is, for example, a diluent, a dispersing agent or a carrier or the like. All of these vehicles are known in the art, and those skilled in the art can specifically select their type and amount as needed.
  • the vehicle includes, but is not limited to, ethanol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, and the like.
  • the vehicle will comprise from 0.5% to 20% by weight based on the total weight of component (C).
  • the active ingredients include, for example, emollients, humectants, skin conditioners, and the like. All of these active ingredients are known in the art, and those skilled in the art can specifically select their type and amount as needed.
  • the emollient includes, but is not limited to, olive oil, macadamia nut oil, sweet almond oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, corn oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, white flower seed oil, safflower seed oil, Dog tooth rose hip oil, thorn a dry tree seed oil, jojoba seed oil, sunflower seed oil, maurai palm oil, squalane, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, different ten Hexane, isododecane, diethylhexyl carbonate, dioctyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isodecyl isononanoate, hydrogenated polydecene, tris(ethylhexanoate) , cetyl ethylhexanoate, bis-diethoxydiglycol cyclohexane 1,
  • Solid emollients include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, squalyl alcohol, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, beeswax , candelilla wax, carnauba wax, lanolin, ozoke wax, jojoba seed wax, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, hydrogenated rice bran wax, hydrogenated coconut glyceride, glyceryl behenate/icoic acid ester, meat One or more of soybean croton myristate, bis-diglycerol polyacyl adipate-2, avocado, and sage.
  • the level of the emollient in the composition is known in the art. Usually, in the composition of the present invention, the emollient is from 1 to 50% by weight based on the total weight of the component (C).
  • the humectant includes, but is not limited to, glycerin, diglycerin, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol-8, polyethylene glycol-32, methylglucitol Polyether-10, methylglycol-20, PEG/PPG-17/6 copolymer, glycerol polyether-7, glycerol polyether-26, glycerol glucoside, PPG-10 methyl glucose ether, PPG-20 methyl glucose ether, PEG/PPG/polybutylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerin, sucrose, trehalose, rhamnose, mannose, raffinose, betaine, erythritol, xylose
  • the skin conditioning agent may include active ingredients for moisturizing, anti-wrinkle, ecchymosis, acne, oil control, etc., including but not limited to kojic acid, ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, arbutin, tranexamic acid, nicotinamide, Phytosterols, phytosterols/behenyl alcohol/octyl decyl laurate laurate glutamate, phenethyl resorcinol, turmeric root extract, birch bark extract, ceramide 2, ceramide 3, acetyl plant Sphingosine, resveratrol, flowering bark extract, Coleus formosan extract, pepper seed extract, ubiquinone, cholesterol, cholesterol stearate, ascorbyl dipalmitate, Tocopherol (vitamin E), tocopheryl acetate, bisabolol, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, pyridoxine dicaprylate, pyridox
  • excipients include, but are not limited to, surfactants, emulsifiers, thickeners, preservatives, perfumes, pH adjusters, and the like. All of these excipient ingredients are known in the art, and those skilled in the art can specifically select their type and amount as needed.
  • the surfactant is used for reducing the surface tension of the interface to achieve the purpose of cleaning, emulsifying and stabilizing the system. It can be any type of surfactant commonly used in cosmetics, and those skilled in the art can select the type and amount according to the needs. .
  • the surfactant may include, but is not limited to, a fatty acid soap (eg, sodium laurate, sodium palmitate, etc.), a higher alkyl sulfate (eg, sodium lauryl sulfate, etc.), an alkyl ether sulfate (eg, PEG-lauric) a triethanolamine sulfate, PEG-sodium lauryl sulfate, etc., N-acylsarcosine (for example, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, etc.), a higher fatty acid amide sulfonate (for example, sodium laurylmethyltaurate, etc.), Alkylbenzenesulfonate, higher fatty acid ester sulfate (for example, hardened coconut oil fatty acid sodium glycerate, etc.), N-acyl glutamate, ⁇ -olefin sulfonate, lauryl dimethylaminoacetic acid betaine,
  • the emulsifier includes, but is not limited to, cetearyl oleate, sorbitan oligoate, polysorbate-60, polysorbate-80, methyl glucose stearate Ester, PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PPG-26-butanol-26, PEG-4 polyglycerol-2 stearate, PEG-60 hydrogenation Castor oil, stearyl-2, stearyl-21, PPG-13-decyltetradecyl polyether-24, cetearyl glucoside, PEG-100 stearate, glycerol Stearate, glyceryl stearate SE, coco glucoside, ceteareth-25, PEG-40 stearate, polyglyceryl-3 methyl glucose distearate, Glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglycerol-10 myristate, polyglycerol
  • the thickeners include, but are not limited to, carbomers, acrylates and derivatives thereof, xanthan gum, gum arabic, polyethylene glycol-14M, polyethylene glycol-90M, succinyl poly One or more of high molecular polymers such as sugar, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, and hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose.
  • the amount of the thickening agent in the composition is known in the art.
  • the thickener accounts for 0.1 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the component (C).
  • the preservative includes, but is not limited to, methylparaben, propylparaben, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, bis(hydroxymethyl)imidazolidinyl urea, potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, chlorobenzene
  • the amount of the preservative in the composition is known in the art.
  • the preservative accounts for 0.01 to 2% by weight based on the total weight of the component (C).
  • pH adjusting agents include, but are not limited to, arginine, citric acid, sodium citrate, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and the like.
  • the moisturizing cosmetic compositions of the present invention can be prepared by any suitable method known in the art.
  • it can be prepared using a container such as a dissolution tank, an emulsifying pot, a disperser, a transfer pump or the like which is commonly used in the field of cosmetics.
  • the water-soluble substance is first put into the aqueous phase dissolution kettle, the oil-soluble substance is put into the oil phase dissolution kettle, and the temperature of the two kettles is respectively heated to about 80 ° C, wherein for the agglomerated raw materials, the disperser can be used first. Pre-disperse it.
  • the oil phase and the aqueous phase are transferred to an emulsification pot, and the mixture is homogenized and emulsified for about 5-15 minutes.
  • the temperature of the body is lowered to room temperature, optionally adding a fragrance, a preservative, etc., and adjusting the pH of the product as needed.
  • the relevant test indicators are all qualified before they can be filled and shipped.
  • the above preparation method can be deleted or adjusted according to the dosage form requirements, and various dosage forms such as emulsion, cream, cream or gel can be prepared as needed.
  • the present invention provides a moisturizing composition having a formulation which is preferably a toner which exhibits an excellent moisturizing and other skin care effect.
  • Example 1 Transdermal absorption rate of hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate in different systems
  • Formula A water 0 99.5 White birch (BETULA ALBA) sap 99.5 0 Hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate 0.5 0.5
  • Test method "Reconstruction of human epidermis” obtained by "human keratinocytes” was used to reconstruct a culture medium under the human epidermis.
  • the hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate was formulated into a 0.5% solution by using birch sap or water, and the above solution of 32 ul/cm 2 was applied to the epidermis layer of the skin model, respectively, and the detection was started after 8 hours of contact. Do 3 parallels per point.
  • the skin tissue was washed with phosphate buffer before detection, homogenized by tissue, and the content of hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate absorbed by the tissue was detected by ELISA.
  • Table 2 The test results are shown in Table 2 below.
  • Example 2 Toner Composition of the Invention vs. Control Toner Composition
  • the above toner composition is prepared as follows:
  • the results in Figure 1 show that after 14 days of continuous use, the toner A of the present invention can improve the moisturizing performance of the skin to 150% or more, and the control toner B can improve the moisturizing performance of the skin to 121%, and the toner C can be used for the skin.
  • the moisturizing performance is increased to 128%, and Toner D can increase the skin's moisturizing performance to 115%. Therefore, the toner composition A of the present invention has a better moisturizing effect than the control toner composition B-D.
  • the formulation of the toner is shown in Table 4 below.
  • the above toner composition is prepared as follows:
  • the toner shows excellent skin care benefits such as moisturizing and whitening.
  • the formulation of the moisturizing mask is shown in Table 5 below.
  • the above mask was prepared as follows:
  • the above moisturizing emulsion is prepared as follows:
  • Oil phase PEG-100 stearate, glyceryl stearate, C14-22 alcohol, C12-20 alkyl glucoside, caprylic/capric triglyceride, avocado (BUTYROSPERMUM PARK II) fruit fat, whale Wax alcohol, polydimethylsiloxane.
  • avocado (BUTYROSPERMUM PARK II) fruit fat, whale Wax alcohol, polydimethylsiloxane. The above raw materials were heated to 80 ° C, dissolved and mixed uniformly.
  • Raw materials such as xanthan gum, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, acrylic acid/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosslinked polymer, glycerin and the like are uniformly mixed at normal temperature.
  • Aqueous phase The birch sap is heated to 80 ° C and the mixture of steps 2 and 3 is added. Dissolve and mix evenly.
  • Emulsification The aqueous phase and the oil phase were added to the emulsification tank, and the temperature was incubated at 80 ° C for 5 min at a speed of 3000 rpm. After the emulsification, arginine was added.
  • the formulation of the moisturizer is shown in Table 7 below.
  • the above moisturizing cream is prepared as follows:
  • Oil phase methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, glyceryl caprylate/caprate, pentaerythritol IV Ethylhexanoic acid ester, avocado (BUTYROSPERMUM PARK II) fruit fat, cetearyl alcohol, polydimethylsiloxane.
  • the above raw materials were heated to 80 ° C, dissolved and uniformly mixed.
  • Raw materials such as xanthan gum, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, acrylic acid/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosslinked polymer, glycerin and the like are uniformly mixed at normal temperature.
  • Aqueous phase The birch sap is heated to 80 ° C and the mixture of step 3 is added. Dissolve and mix evenly.
  • Emulsification The aqueous phase and the oil phase were added to the emulsification tank, and the temperature was incubated at 80 ° C for 5 min at a speed of 3000 rpm. After the emulsification, arginine was added.
  • the formulation of the moisturizing cleanser is shown in Table 8 below.
  • the above cleansing milk is prepared as follows:
  • step 2 Incubate at 80 ° C and sequentially add sodium lauroyl glutamate, PEG-150 distearate, cocamide MEA, sodium cocoyl isethionate, stearic acid, in the mixture of step 1. Then stir with heat until all is dissolved.
  • the xanthan gum, the hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, the acrylic acid/C10-30 alkanol acrylate crosspolymer and the 1,3-propanediol are uniformly mixed.
  • step 4 Slowly stir and cool to 40 ° C, add the mixture obtained in step 1, then add arginine to adjust the pH and discharge.

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Abstract

一种保湿化妆品组合物，其包含(A)30-99％重量的桦树汁，(B)0.001-5％重量的水解透明质酸钠，和(C)任选的，护肤化妆品中常用的成分，其中所述保湿化妆品组合物不包含通常作为单独组分添加的水。

Description

保湿化妆品组合物 技术领域
本发明涉及一种保湿化妆品组合物，其包含桦树汁、水解透明质酸钠、和任选的护肤化妆品中常用的成分，但不包含通常作为单独组分添加的水。
背景技术
保湿对维持皮肤健康有很重要的意义。市场上的传统水溶性保湿产品仍然以多元醇、高分子类的成分为主，这类成分可以吸收空气中的水分，但气候干燥的时候还会吸取皮肤中的水分，无法做到全天候保湿。还有，大量的对皮肤保湿有益的矿物质和微量元素仍然无法加入到普通化妆品中。
皮肤的保湿主要靠给角质层提供水分而实现。但水分运输到角质层最主要的方式是通过水通道蛋白得以实现的，水通道蛋白的开启受矿物质离子强度以及钙、镁、钾等离子的调控，因此具有一定矿物质离子强度且富含钙、镁、钾等离子的环境将有利于水分跨膜运输到角质层，从而提高皮肤的水分含量。桦树汁因为富含天然矿物元素使上述理论变为可能，可以全部替代化妆品中的水。
市售的含桦树汁和水解透明质酸钠的产品都有水的存在，水的存在会改变桦树汁中矿物质离子的浓度，影响桦树汁中水分和水解透明质酸钠的跨膜运输。
因此，本发明尝试使用桦树汁代替水，以促进角质层对上述物质的吸收。经过试验，本发明人发现，桦树汁显著促进了水解透明质酸钠的透皮吸收率，从而达到更好的保湿等护肤效果。
附图说明
图1是显示本发明的爽肤水A与对照B-D的保湿效果的图表。
发明内容
本发明的目的是提供一种保湿化妆品组合物，其包含(A)30-99％重量的桦树汁，(B)0.001-5％重量的水解透明质酸钠，和(C)任选的，护肤化妆品中常用的成分，其中本发明的保湿化妆品组合物不包含通常作为单独组分添加的水。
本发明的化妆品组合物可显著提高保湿护肤效果。
本发明的护肤化妆品组合物不包含任何外加的水，但不排除所采用的桦树汁中固有的水分以及其它成分中不可避免引入的少量或痕量的水。
在优选的实施方案中，本发明的保湿化妆品组合物中不添加EDTA盐、多磷酸钠、偏磷酸钠、葡萄糖酸等螯合剂。
本发明还涉及一种增加水解透明质酸钠的透皮吸收率的方法，包括将桦树汁添加到包含水解透明质酸钠但不包含水的保湿化妆品组合物中。所述方法可显著提高水解透明质酸钠的透皮吸收率，从而实现显著改善的保湿效果。
本发明也涉及桦树汁和水解透明质酸钠的组合在不包含水的保湿化妆品组合物中的用途。
本发明中所涉及的桦树属于桦木科桦树属，可来自白桦(Betula alba)、垂枝桦(Betula Pendula)和亚洲白桦(Betula platyphylla)这三个品种。
所述组分(A)桦树汁的采集时间从积雪开始融化时开始，到树木放叶时为止，采集时在离地40－60公分高的桦树干上钻 小孔，放入导液设备，桦树汁采集过滤后采用常规方法灭菌，得到无色透明、无沉淀、无杂物，具有桦树清香营养丰富的汁液。所采集的桦树汁不经过辐照处理，不添加防腐剂，以期最大限度保留桦树汁的营养成分。所述桦树汁可商购获得并原样采用，例如购自大兴安岭超越野生浆果开发有限责任公司。
本发明的保湿化妆品组合物可包含30-99％重量的桦树汁，优选50-95％重量，更优选70-90％重量，以所述组合物的总重量计算。
所述组分(B)水解透明质酸钠是由透明质酸钠的酶切制备的分子量极小的分子片段，其分子量通常为1-10KDa，优选3-8KDa，更优选5-7KDa。上述水解透明质酸钠能够快速渗透至角质层以下，提供持久的皮肤保湿效果。水解透明质酸钠可以通过本领域已知的方法制备，例如首先通过发酵法由植物性来源培养基(蛋白胨、葡萄糖等)制得透明质酸钠，再通过酶切制备水解透明质酸钠。水解透明质酸钠也可以商购获得，例如可商购于华熙福瑞达生物医药有限公司，其分子量为≤10KDa。
本发明采用的水解透明质酸钠具有分子量小、快速渗透的特点，可直达真皮层从而达到深层锁水、补水，促进细胞增殖，刺激胶原蛋白生成的功效。而透明质酸可用于酸性配方中，但容易与配方中的阳离子结合，不能稳定存在；普通的透明质酸钠只能在皮肤表面达到表层保湿的功效。此外，水解透明质酸钠和透明质酸钠二者的肤感也不同：水解透明质酸钠可快速渗透，所以肤感清爽不粘腻，在组合物中的加入量也可比较大；而普通的透明质酸钠要在皮肤表层利用其自身的网状结构来吸水，少量添加可保湿的同时也带来滑爽感，添加量大的话肤感粘腻。
本发明的保湿化妆品组合物可包含0.001-5％重量的水解透明质酸钠，优选0.01-1％重量，更优选0.1-0.5％重量，以所述组合物的总重量计算。
本发明的保湿化妆品组合物还任选地包含组分(C)护肤化妆品中常用的成分，其中包括媒介物、活性成分、表面活性剂和辅料等。组分(C)是本领域已知的，本领域技术人员可根据需要具体选择其类型和用量。通常，组分(C)在本发明组合物中的含量为0-65％重量，基于所述组合物的总重量计算。
所述媒介物例如是稀释剂、分散剂或载体等。所有这些媒介物都是本领域已知的，本领域技术人员可根据需要具体选择其类型和用量。例如，所述媒介物包括但不限于乙醇、双丙甘醇、丁二醇等。通常，在本发明组合物中，所述媒介物占组分(C)总重量的0.5-20％。
所述活性成分包括例如润肤剂、保湿剂、皮肤调理剂等。所有这些活性成分都是本领域已知的，本领域技术人员可根据需要具体选择其类型和用量。
例如，所述润肤剂包括但不限于橄榄油、澳洲坚果油、甜杏仁油、葡萄籽油、鳄梨油、玉米油、芝麻油、大豆油、花生油、白池花籽油、红花籽油、狗牙蔷薇果油、刺阿干树仁油、霍霍巴籽油、向日葵籽油、毛瑞榈果油、角鲨烷、棕榈酸乙基己酯、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、氢化聚异丁烯、异十六烷、异十二烷、碳酸二乙基己酯、碳酸二辛酯、月桂酰肌氨酸异丙酯、异壬酸异壬酯、氢化聚癸烯、甘油三(乙基己酸)酯、鲸蜡醇乙基己酸酯、双-二乙氧基二甘醇环己烷1,4-二羧酸酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、油醇芥酸酯、辛基十二醇肉豆蔻酸酯、辛基十二醇、聚二甲基硅氧烷、辛基聚甲基硅氧烷、鲸蜡基聚二甲基硅氧烷、 环五聚二甲基硅氧烷等的一种或多种。本发明所述的固体润肤剂包括但不限于鲸蜡醇、硬脂醇、鲸蜡硬脂醇、山嵛醇、鲨肝醇、月桂酸、肉豆蔻酸、棕榈酸、硬脂酸、蜂蜡、小烛树蜡、巴西棕榈蜡、羊毛脂、地蜡、霍霍巴籽蜡、石蜡、微晶蜡、氢化米糠蜡、氢化椰油甘油酯类、甘油山嵛酸酯/二十酸酯、肉豆蔻醇肉豆蔻酸酯、双-二甘油多酰基己二酸酯-2、牛油果树果脂、木鲁星果棕籽脂等中的一种或多种。所述润肤剂在所述组合物中的含量是本领域已知的。通常，在本发明组合物中，所述润肤剂占组分(C)总重量的1-50％重量。
例如，所述保湿剂包括但不限于甘油、双甘油、丙二醇、1,3-丙二醇、1,2-戊二醇、聚乙二醇-8、聚乙二醇-32、甲基葡糖醇聚醚-10、甲基葡糖醇聚醚-20、PEG/PPG-17/6共聚物、甘油聚醚-7、甘油聚醚-26、甘油葡糖苷、PPG-10甲基葡糖醚、PPG-20甲基葡糖醚、PEG/PPG/聚丁二醇-8/5/3甘油、蔗糖、海藻糖、鼠李糖、甘露糖、棉子糖、甜菜碱、赤藓醇、木糖醇、尿素、甘油聚醚-5乳酸酯、透明质酸钠、聚谷氨酸钠、水解小核菌胶、出芽短梗酶多糖、银耳多糖、酸豆籽多糖等中的一种或多种。所述保湿剂在所述组合物中的含量是本领域已知的。通常，在本发明组合物中，所述保湿剂占组分(C)总重量的1-30％重量。
所述皮肤调理剂可包括用于具有保湿、抗皱、祛斑、祛痘、控油等功效的活性成分，包括但不限于曲酸、抗坏血酸、抗坏血酸葡糖苷、熊果苷、传明酸、烟酰胺、植物甾醇、植物甾醇/山嵛醇/辛基癸醇月桂酰谷氨酸酯、苯乙基间苯二酚、姜黄根提取物、白桦树皮提取物、神经酰胺2、神经酰胺3、乙酰植物鞘氨醇、白藜芦醇、花榈木树皮提取物、毛喉鞘蕊花根提取物、 胡椒籽提取物、泛醌、胆甾醇、胆甾醇硬脂酸酯、抗坏血酸二棕榈酸酯、生育酚(维生素E)、生育酚乙酸酯、红没药醇、抗坏血酸四异棕榈酸酯、吡哆素二辛酸酯、吡哆素二棕榈酸酯、视黄醇棕榈酸酯、植物甾醇/辛基十二醇月桂酰谷氨酸酯、双-山嵛醇/异硬脂醇/植物甾醇二聚亚油醇二聚亚油酸酯、植物甾醇澳洲坚果油酸酯、各种肽类、各种植物提取物等中的一种或多种。所述皮肤调理剂在所述组合物中的含量是本领域已知的。通常，在本发明组合物中，所述皮肤调理剂占组分(C)总重量的0.01-50％重量。
所述辅料包括但不限于表面活性剂、乳化剂、增稠剂、防腐剂、香料、pH调节剂等。所有这些辅料成分都是本领域已知的，本领域技术人员可根据需要具体选择其类型和用量。
所述表面活性剂用于降低界面的表面张力，达到清洁、乳化、稳定体系之目的,其可以是常用于化妆品的任何类型的表面活性剂，本领域技术人员可以根据所需选择其类型及用量。例如，所述表面活性剂可包括但不限于脂肪酸皂(例如月桂酸钠、棕榈酸钠等)、高级烷基硫酸盐(例如月桂基硫酸钠等)、烷基醚硫酸盐(例如PEG-月桂基硫酸三乙醇胺、PEG-月桂基硫酸钠等)、N-酰基肌氨酸(例如月桂酰基肌氨酸钠等)、高级脂肪酸酰胺磺酸盐(例如月桂基甲基牛磺酸钠等)、烷基苯磺酸盐、高级脂肪酸酯硫酸盐(例如，硬化椰子油脂肪酸甘油硫酸钠等)、N-酰基谷氨酸盐、α-烯烃磺酸盐、月桂基二甲氨基乙酸甜菜碱、烷基甜菜碱、酰氨基甜菜碱、磺基甜菜碱、脱水山梨糖醇脂肪酸酯类(例如，脱水山梨糖醇单油酸酯、脱水山梨糖醇单异硬脂酸酯、脱水山梨糖醇单月桂酸酯、脱水山梨糖醇单棕榈酸酯、脱水山梨糖醇单硬脂酸酯、脱水山梨糖醇倍半油酸酯、甘油聚甘油脂 肪酸酯类(例如，单芥酸甘油酯、倍半油酸甘油酯、单硬脂酸甘油酯、单硬脂酸甘油苹果酸酯等)、丙二醇脂肪酸酯类(例如，单硬脂酸丙二醇酯等)、氢化蓖麻油衍生物、甘油烷基醚等、PEG山梨糖醇脂肪酸酯类(例如，PEG-山梨糖醇单月桂酸酯、PEG-山梨糖醇单油酸酯、PEG-山梨糖醇单硬脂酸酯等)、PEG-甘油脂肪酸酯类(例如，PEG-甘油单硬脂酸酯、PEG-甘油单异硬脂酸酯等)、PEG-脂肪酸酯类(例如，PEG-二硬脂酸酯、二硬脂酸乙二醇酯等)、PEG-烷基醚类(例如PEG-2-辛基十二烷基醚等)、PEG-蓖麻油硬化蓖麻油衍生物(例如，PEG-氢化蓖麻油、PEG-氢化蓖麻油单异硬脂酸酯、PEG-硬化蓖麻油马来酸等)、蔗糖脂肪酸酯等。所述表面活性剂的含量在组合物中的含量是本领域已知的。通常，在本发明组合物中，所述表面活性剂占组分(C)总重量的1-50％重量。
例如，所述乳化剂包括但不限于鲸蜡硬脂醇橄榄油酸酯、山梨坦橄榄油酸酯、聚山梨醇酯-60、聚山梨醇酯-80、甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、PEG-40氢化蓖麻油、PPG-26-丁醇聚醚-26、PEG-4聚甘油-2硬脂酸酯、PEG-60氢化蓖麻油、硬脂醇聚醚-2、硬脂醇聚醚-21、PPG-13-癸基十四醇聚醚-24、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷、PEG-100硬脂酸酯、甘油硬脂酸酯、甘油硬脂酸酯SE、椰油基葡糖苷、鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-25、PEG-40硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-3甲基葡糖二硬脂酸酯、甘油硬脂酸酯柠檬酸酯、聚甘油-10硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-10肉豆蔻酸酯、聚甘油-10二油酸酯、聚甘油-10月桂酸酯、聚甘油-10异硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-10油酸酯、聚甘油-10二异硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-6月桂酸酯、聚甘油-6肉豆蔻酸酯、蔗糖硬脂酸酯、蔗糖多硬脂酸酯等中的一种或多种。所述乳化剂在所述 组合物中的含量是本领域已知的。通常，在本发明组合物中，所述乳化剂占组分(C)总重量的0.5-10％重量。
例如，所述增稠剂包括但不限于卡波姆类、丙烯酸(酯)类及其衍生物、黄原胶、阿拉伯胶、聚乙二醇-14M、聚乙二醇-90M、琥珀酰聚糖、羟乙基纤维素、羟丙基纤维素、羟丙基甲基纤维素等高分子聚合物中的一种或多种。所述增稠剂在所述组合物中的含量是本领域已知的。通常，在本发明组合物中，所述增稠剂占组分(C)总重量的0.1-10％重量。
例如，所述防腐剂包括但不限于羟苯甲酯、羟苯丙酯、苯氧乙醇、苯甲醇、苯乙醇、双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲、山梨酸钾、苯甲酸钠、氯苯甘醚、脱氢乙酸钠等中的一种或多种。所述防腐剂在所述组合物中的含量是本领域已知的。通常，在本发明组合物中，所述防腐剂占组分(C)总重量的0.01-2％重量。
所述pH调节剂包括但不限于精氨酸、柠檬酸、柠檬酸钠、氢氧化钠、氢氧化钾等。
本发明的保湿化妆品组合物可以通过本领域已知的任何合适的方法制备。例如，可使用化妆品领域中常用的溶解槽、乳化锅、分散器、输送泵等容器来制备。制备时，先将水溶性物质投入水相溶解釜，将油溶性物质投入油相溶解釜，分别将两个釜的温度加热至80℃左右，其中对于易结块的原料，可先用分散器将其预分散。待溶解完成后将油相和水相输送至乳化锅中，均质乳化约5-15分钟。乳化完成后将料体温度降至常温，任选加入香精、防腐剂等，并视需要调节产物的pH。相关检测指标都合格后方可灌装出货。以上制备方法可根据剂型要求进行删减或调整，可根据需要制备乳液、膏、霜或凝胶等各种剂型。
在一个优选的实施方案中，本发明提供一种具有下述配方的保湿组合物，优选爽肤水，该爽肤水显示出优异的保湿等护肤功效。
Figure PCTCN2018078206-appb-000001
实施例
下面通过具体的实施例、对照例进一步说明本发明，但应当理解，这些实施例、对照例仅仅是用于更详细具体地说明之用，而不应理解为用于以任何形式限制本发明。
实施例1：在不同体系中水解透明质酸钠的透皮吸收率
在本实施例中，测试和对比水解透明质酸钠在含水体系与不含水体系中的透皮吸收率。具体测试配方见下表1。
表1
  配方A 配方B
水 0 99.5
白桦(BETULA ALBA)树汁 99.5 0
水解透明质酸钠 0.5 0.5
测试方法：采用由“人角质形成细胞”培养得到的“重建人表皮”，重建人表皮下侧有维持培养基。按照上述测试配方，分别用白桦树汁或水，将水解透明质酸钠配制成0.5％的溶液，取32ul/cm 2的上述溶液分别涂抹于皮肤模型表皮层面，分别接触8h后开始检测。每个点做3个平行。检测前用磷酸缓冲液清洗皮肤组织，进行组织匀浆，再通过ELISA法检测被组织吸收的水解透明质酸钠含量。测试结果见下表2。
表2
Figure PCTCN2018078206-appb-000002
以上结果表明，与含水体系相比，在不含水而含白桦树汁的体系中，水解透明质酸钠的透皮吸收率显著提高。
实施例2：本发明的爽肤水组合物vs.对照爽肤水组合物
各爽肤水组合物的配方如下表3所示。
表3
Figure PCTCN2018078206-appb-000003
上述爽肤水组合物如下制备：
1.将羟苯甲酯和苯氧乙醇混合加热至80℃，搅拌溶解均匀。
2.将黄原胶、水解透明质酸钠和丁二醇混合均匀。
3.将白桦树汁(或水)加热至80℃，依次加入柠檬酸、甘油、甲基葡糖醇聚醚-20，搅拌均匀，然后加入步骤1和2所得混合物。
4.降温至40℃，加入精氨酸调节pH，出料。
将上述制备的各组合物用于实验，以测试保湿效果。测试方法
如下：采用来自Delfin的MoistureMeter SC皮肤表面水含量测量仪进行。每天早晚各一次将约0.02克的各组合物样品滴加到志愿者的手臂上事先标记的方形区域内，并将样品均匀涂抹于该区域内。用仪器测定样品使用前(基准)和使用14天的皮肤表皮的水分含量，每一个区域重复测试三次取平均值。测试结果如附图1所示。
附图1中的结果表明，在连续使用14天后，本发明的爽肤水A可将皮肤的保湿性能提高至150％以上，对照爽肤水B可将皮肤的保湿性能提高至121％，爽肤水C可将皮肤的保湿性能提高至128％，爽肤水D可将皮肤的保湿性能提高至115％。因此，与对照爽肤水组合物B-D相比，本发明的爽肤水组合物A具有更好的保湿皮肤的效果。
实施例3：爽肤水
所述爽肤水的配方如下表4所示。
表4
  配比(％)
白桦(BETULA ALBA)树汁 85.45
羟苯甲酯 0.15
水解透明质酸钠 0.2
戊二醇 3
甘油 5
双丙甘醇 2
丁二醇 4
柠檬酸 0.1
精氨酸 0.2
上述爽肤水组合物如下制备：
1.将羟苯甲酯和双丙甘醇混合加热至80℃，搅拌溶解均匀。
2.将水解透明质酸钠和丁二醇混合均匀。
3.将白桦树汁加热至80℃，依次加入戊二醇、甘油搅拌均匀，然后加入步骤1和2所得混合物。
4.降温至40℃，加入柠檬酸和精氨酸调整pH，出料。
该爽肤水显示出优异的保湿和美白等护肤功效。
实施例4：保湿面膜
所述保湿面膜的配方如下表5所示。
表5
白桦(BETULA ALBA)树汁 88.25
羟苯甲酯 0.15
柠檬酸 0.1
水解小核菌(SCLEROTIUM ROLFSSII)胶 0.1
黄原胶 0.1
水解透明质酸钠 0.05
甜菜碱 2
甘油 4
丁二醇 4
PEG/PPG-17/6共聚物 1
精氨酸 0.2
双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲 0.05
上述面膜如下制备：
1.将黄原胶、水解小核菌胶、水解透明质酸钠和甘油混合均匀。
2.将羟苯甲酯和丁二醇加热至80℃并溶解至澄清透明。
3.将白桦树汁(或水)加热至80℃，依次加入柠檬酸、甜菜碱、PEG/PPG-17/6共聚物，搅拌均匀。然后冷却至40℃后加入步骤1和2所得混合物，再加入双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲。
4.加入精氨酸调节pH，出料。
实施例5：保湿乳液
所述保湿乳液的配方如下表6所示。
表6
白桦(BETULA ALBA)树汁 74.7
羟苯甲酯 0.2
柠檬酸 0.1
黄原胶 0.1
水解透明质酸钠 1
甘油 8
双丙甘醇 3.05
丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物 0.1
羟苯丙酯 0.1
PEG-100硬脂酸酯，甘油硬脂酸酯 1
C14-22醇，C12-20烷基葡糖苷 1
辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯 6
牛油果树(BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII)果脂 1
鲸蜡醇 1
聚二甲基硅氧烷 2
精氨酸 0.25
苯氧乙醇 0.4
上述保湿乳液如下制备：
1.油相：PEG-100硬脂酸酯，甘油硬脂酸酯，C14-22醇，C12-20烷基葡糖苷，辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯，牛油果树(BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII)果脂，鲸蜡醇，聚二甲基硅氧烷。将上述原料加热至80℃，溶解混合均匀。
2.将羟苯甲酯、羟苯丙酯，双丙甘醇加热至80℃，溶解混合均匀。
3.将黄原胶、水解透明质酸钠、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、甘油等原料在常温下混合均匀。
4.水相：将白桦树汁加热到80℃，加入步骤2和步骤3的混合物。溶解混合均匀。
5.乳化：将水相和油相加入乳化罐中，保温在80℃，用3000rpm速度均质乳化5min，乳化完成后加入精氨酸。
6.搅拌降温至40℃时加入苯氧乙醇，搅拌均匀后出料。
实施例6：保湿霜
所述保湿霜的配方如下表7所示。
表7
Figure PCTCN2018078206-appb-000004
上述保湿霜如下制备：
1.油相：甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯，PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯，辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯，甘油辛酸酯/癸酸酯，季戊四醇四(乙基己酸)酯，牛油果树(BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII)果脂，鲸蜡硬脂醇，聚二甲基硅氧烷。将上述原料加热至80℃，溶解 混合均匀。
2.将羟苯甲酯、羟苯丙酯，苯氧乙醇加热至80℃，溶解混合均匀。
3.将黄原胶、水解透明质酸钠、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物、甘油等原料在常温下混合均匀。
4.水相：将白桦树汁加热到80℃，加入步骤3的混合物。溶解混合均匀。
5.乳化：将水相和油相加入乳化罐中，保温在80℃，用3000rpm速度均质乳化5min，乳化完成后加入精氨酸。
6.搅拌降温至40℃时加入步骤2的混合物，搅拌均匀后出料。
实施例7：保湿洁面乳
所述保湿洁面乳的配方如下表8所示。
表8
白桦(BETULA ALBA)树汁 44.2
柠檬酸 0.1
羟苯甲酯 0.2
聚乙二醇-14M 0.1
水解透明质酸钠 0.5
丙二醇 24.5
月桂酰谷氨酸钠 22
PEG-150二硬脂酸酯 3
椰油酰胺MEA 1
椰油酰羟乙磺酸酯钠，硬脂酸 4
苯氧乙醇 0.4
上述洁面乳如下制备：
1.将白桦树汁、柠檬酸、羟苯甲酯、聚乙二醇-14M、水解透明质酸钠、丙二醇，混合均匀并加热至80℃。
2.保温在80℃并在步骤1的混合物中依次加入月桂酰谷氨酸钠、PEG-150二硬脂酸酯、椰油酰胺MEA、椰油酰羟乙磺酸酯钠、硬脂酸，然后保温搅拌，直到全部溶解。
3.边搅拌边降温至35℃。
4.加入苯氧乙醇并混合均匀，出料。
实施例8：保湿精华液
所述保湿精华液的配方如下表9所示。
表9
白桦(BETULA ALBA)树汁 81.55
羟苯甲酯 0.15
柠檬酸 0.1
聚谷氨酸钠 0.1
黄原胶 0.1
水解透明质酸钠 0.05
海藻糖 2
甘油 6
1,3-丙二醇 5
丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物 0.2
PPG-10甲基葡糖醚 4
精氨酸 0.35
苯氧乙醇 0.4
上述精华液如下制备：
1.将羟苯甲酯和苯氧乙醇混合加热至80℃，搅拌溶解均匀。
2.将黄原胶、水解透明质酸钠、丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物和1,3-丙二醇混合均匀。
3.将白桦树汁加热至80℃，依次加入柠檬酸、甘油、聚谷氨酸钠、海藻糖、PPG-10甲基葡糖醚，搅拌均匀，然后加入步骤2所得混合物中。
4.缓慢搅拌并降温至40℃，加入步骤1所得混合物，然后加入精氨酸调节pH，出料。
以上所述实施例的技术方案是本发明优选实施方式，在不脱离本发明原理的前提下还可以进行若干改进和变换，这些改进和变化也应视为在本发明的保护范围内。

Claims (13)

  1. 一种保湿化妆品组合物，其包含：
    (A)30-99％重量的桦树汁，
    (B)0.001-5％重量的水解透明质酸钠，和
    (C)任选的，护肤化妆品中常用的成分；
    其中，上述百分比含量基于所述组合物的总重量计算，和
    所述保湿化妆品组合物不包含通常作为单独组分添加的水。
  2. 权利要求1的保湿化妆品组合物，其中所述组合物不包含螯合剂。
  3. 权利要求1或2的保湿化妆品组合物，其中所述组合物包含50-95％重量或70-90％重量的桦树汁。
  4. 权利要求1-3任一项的保湿化妆品组合物，其中所述组合物包含0.01-1％重量或0.1-0.5％重量的水解透明质酸钠。
  5. 权利要求1-4任一项的保湿化妆品组合物，其中所述水解透明质酸钠具有1-10KDa或3-8KDa或5-7KDa的分子量。
  6. 一种增加水解透明质酸钠的透皮吸收率的方法，包括将桦树汁添加到包含水解透明质酸钠但不包含水的保湿化妆品组合物中。
  7. 权利要求6的方法，其中所述组合物包含30-99％重量的 桦树汁和0.001-5％重量的水解透明质酸钠，基于所述组合物的总重量计算。
  8. 权利要求6或7的方法，其中所述组合物不包含螯合剂。
  9. 权利要求6-8任一项的方法，其中所述水解透明质酸钠具有1-10KDa或3-8KDa或5-7KDa的分子量。
  10. 桦树汁和水解透明质酸钠的组合在不包含水的保湿化妆品组合物中的用途。
  11. 权利要求10的用途，其中30-99％重量的桦树汁和0.001-5％重量的水解透明质酸钠进行组合，基于所述组合物的总重量计算。
  12. 权利要求10或11的用途，其中所述组合物不包含螯合剂。
  13. 权利要求10-12任一项的用途，其中所述水解透明质酸钠具有1-10KDa或3-8KDa或5-7KDa的分子量。
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