WO2021017912A1 - 保湿化妆品组合物 - Google Patents

保湿化妆品组合物 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2021017912A1
WO2021017912A1 PCT/CN2020/102901 CN2020102901W WO2021017912A1 WO 2021017912 A1 WO2021017912 A1 WO 2021017912A1 CN 2020102901 W CN2020102901 W CN 2020102901W WO 2021017912 A1 WO2021017912 A1 WO 2021017912A1
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Prior art keywords
birch sap
moisturizing
cosmetic composition
concentration
concentrated
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PCT/CN2020/102901
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
王莎莎
张正方
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浙江养生堂天然药物研究所有限公司
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Publication of WO2021017912A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021017912A1/zh

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the use of concentrated birch sap in a moisturizing cosmetic composition, and a moisturizing cosmetic composition containing concentrated birch sap.
  • Birch is a deciduous tree of the birch family. There are currently about 100 species in the world, mainly distributed in the northern temperate zone and the cold temperate zone. Among them, there are about 29 varieties in my country, mainly distributed in the northeast, northwest, north and southwest. Birch trees are mostly grown in remote mountainous areas with little human intervention and no industrial pollution. Birch sap (also called birch sap) is the fresh sap from the birch bark being cut or the trunk is drilled. It is colorless or light yellow, free of precipitation and impurities, and has a light birch fragrance. The birch sap contains a lot of sugars, amino acids, vitamins, biotin, cytokinins, trace mineral elements, aromatic oils, betulin, saponin and other compounds. It has good moisturizing, anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkle and whitening properties. And other skin care effects.
  • the present invention provides a concentrated birch sap with a concentration factor of about 1.05-8 times, preferably about 1.1-4 times, and more preferably about 1.2-2 times.
  • the present invention relates to the use of concentrated birch sap in a moisturizing cosmetic composition, wherein the concentration of the concentrated birch sap is about 1.05-8 times, preferably about 1.1-4 times, more preferably about 1.2-2 Times.
  • the concentrated birch sap has good moisturizing and moisturizing effects, can increase the water content of the skin in the stratum corneum, improve the skin barrier, reduce transdermal water loss, and make the skin more moisturized, fuller, and translucent.
  • the birch sap involved in the present invention is obtained from the genus Betula, Betula alba, Betula pubescens, Betula Pendula and Asian white birch (Betula platyphylla). Varieties.
  • the birch sap is a colorless, transparent, no-sediment-free, and no-drug sap that is artificially collected by drilling holes at the base of the trunk of the birch from thawing to early spring.
  • the birch sap is commercially available and used as it is, for example, it can be purchased from Daxinganling Chaoyue Wild Berry Development Co., Ltd.
  • the concentrated birch sap in the present invention is obtained by concentrating the above-mentioned commercial products. Concentration methods are known in the art, such as heating concentration, low-temperature vacuum concentration, membrane concentration and the like. In the present invention, the concentration is preferably carried out by a low-temperature freeze concentration or membrane concentration process. For example, the commercially available birch juice stock solution is input into a low-temperature drying equipment, the temperature is lowered to -40°C to -70°C, and the vacuum is applied to 0.1-30Pa. Concentrated in vacuum at low temperature to obtain concentrated birch sap with different concentration times.
  • Skin moisturizing involves two processes: one is to absorb water, which transfers moisture from the dermis to the epidermis; the other is to lock water to prevent the water in the stratum corneum from being dispersed into the air.
  • the two work together to increase the moisture content in the stratum corneum of the skin.
  • Birch sap can promote the expression of genes related to skin barrier and hydration ability, especially the expression of aquaporin, and can enhance the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes.
  • concentrated birch sap has significantly better moisturizing and moisturizing effects, which can promote genes and proteins related to skin barrier and hydration ability.
  • the expression of keratinocytes promotes the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes, increases the water absorption and retention capacity of the skin, improves the skin barrier, increases the water content of the epidermis, and reduces water escape.
  • controlling the concentration ratio of birch sap is key.
  • controlling the concentration ratio of birch sap is about 1.05-8 times, preferably about 1.1-4 times, more preferably about 1.2-2 times.
  • the present invention relates to a moisturizing cosmetic composition
  • a moisturizing cosmetic composition comprising the concentrated birch sap described in (A), wherein the concentration of the concentrated birch sap is about 1.05-8 times, preferably about 1.1-4 times, It is more preferably about 1.2-2 times.
  • the moisturizing cosmetic composition shows an excellent moisturizing effect.
  • the moisturizing cosmetic composition of the present invention does not contain chelating agents such as EDTA salt, sodium polyphosphate, sodium metaphosphate, and gluconic acid.
  • the moisturizing cosmetic composition of the present invention does not contain any added water, but does not exclude the moisture inherently contained in each component.
  • the content of the concentrated birch tree juice in the moisturizing cosmetic composition is about 18-98% by weight, preferably 20-95% by weight, more preferably 22-90% by weight, most preferably 30-90% by weight, based on the The total weight of the moisturizing cosmetic composition.
  • the moisturizing cosmetic composition optionally also contains (B) ingredients commonly used in skin care cosmetics, including vehicles, active ingredients, and auxiliary materials.
  • Component (B) is known in the art, and those skilled in the art can select its type and amount according to needs. For example, the content of component (B) is about 2-82% by weight, based on the total amount of the cosmetic composition. weight.
  • the vehicle includes, for example, a diluent, a dispersant, or a carrier, and examples thereof include, but are not limited to, ethanol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, and the like.
  • the content of the vehicle in the cosmetic composition is known in the art, for example, it usually accounts for 0.5-20% of the total weight of component (B).
  • the active ingredients include, for example, emollients, moisturizers and the like.
  • emollient examples include, but are not limited to, olive oil, macadamia nut oil, sweet almond oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, corn oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, white flower seed oil, safflower seed oil, Dogtooth rose hip oil, argan tree kernel oil, jojoba seed oil, sunflower seed oil, palm tree fruit oil, squalane, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, isotene Hexane, isododecane, diethylhexyl carbonate, dioctyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosine, isononyl isononanoate, hydrogenated polydecene, glycerol tri(ethylhexanoate) , Cetyl alcohol ethyl hexanoate, bis-diethoxy diethylene glycol cyclohexane
  • solid emollients include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, scylitol, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, beeswax, candelilla Tree wax, carnauba wax, lanolin, ozokerite, jojoba seed wax, paraffin wax, microcrystalline wax, hydrogenated rice bran wax, hydrogenated coconut oil glycerides, glyceryl behenate/eicosanate, myristyl alcohol One or more of myristate, bis-diglycerol polyacyl adipate-2, shea butter, and mululu star palm seed butter.
  • the content of the emollient in the cosmetic composition is known in the art, for example, it usually accounts for 1-50% of the total weight of component (B).
  • moisturizer examples include, but are not limited to, glycerin, diglycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, dipropylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol-8, polyethylene glycol Alcohol-32, methylglucitol-10, methylglucitol-20, PEG/PPG-17/6 copolymer, glycerol-7, glycerol-26, glycerol glucoside, PPG-10 methyl glucose ether, PPG-20 methyl glucose ether, PEG/PPG/polybutylene glycol-8/5/3 glycerin, sucrose, trehalose, rhamnose, mannose, raffinose, Betaine, erythritol, xylitol, urea, glyceryl polyether-5 lactate, sodium hyaluronate, hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate, acetyl
  • the auxiliary materials include, for example, emulsifiers, thickeners, preservatives, perfumes and the like.
  • emulsifier examples include, but are not limited to, cetearyl oleate, sorbitan oleate, polysorbate-60, polysorbate-80, methylglucose sesquistearic acid Ester, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PPG-26-butanol-26, PEG-4 polyglycerol-2 stearate, PEG-60 hydrogenated Castor oil, steareth-2, steareth-21, PPG-13-decyltetradeceth-24, cetearyl glucoside, PEG-100 stearate, glycerin Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Coco Glucoside, Ceteareth-25, PEG-40 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methyl Glucose Distearate, Glyceryl stearate citrate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyce
  • the thickener examples include, but are not limited to, carbomers, acrylic acid (ester) and its derivatives, xanthan gum, gum arabic, polyethylene glycol-14M, polyethylene glycol-90M, succinyl poly One or more of high molecular polymers such as sugar, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, and hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose.
  • the content of the thickener in the cosmetic composition is known in the art, for example, it usually accounts for 0.1-10% of the total weight of the component (B).
  • preservatives examples include, but are not limited to, methylparaben, propylparaben, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, bis(hydroxymethyl)imidazolidinylurea, potassium sorbate, sodium benzoate, chlorobenzene Glycerol, sodium dehydroacetate, caprylic hydroxamic acid, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, caprylyl glycol, glyceryl caprylate, undecylenic acid
  • the content of the preservative in the cosmetic composition is known in the art, for example, it usually accounts for 0.01-2% of the total weight of the component (B).
  • the cosmetic composition of the present invention can be prepared by any suitable method known in the art.
  • it can be prepared by dissolving tanks, emulsifying pots, dispersers, and delivery pumps commonly used in the cosmetics field.
  • dissolving tanks emulsifying pots, dispersers, and delivery pumps commonly used in the cosmetics field.
  • the water-soluble substance into the water-phase dissolving kettle, and the oil-soluble substance into the oil-phase dissolving kettle, and heat the temperature of the two kettles to about 80°C.
  • the raw materials that are easy to agglomerate they can be mixed with a disperser first. Pre-dispersion. After the dissolution is completed, the oil phase and the water phase are transported to the emulsifying pot for homogenization and emulsification for about 5-15 minutes.
  • the temperature of the material body is reduced to normal temperature, optional flavors, preservatives, etc. are added, and the pH of the product is adjusted as necessary.
  • the products can be filled and shipped only after the relevant test indicators are qualified.
  • the above preparation methods can be deleted or adjusted according to the requirements of dosage forms, and dosage forms such as creams, creams, lotions, and essences can be prepared as needed.
  • Example 1 The effect of birch sap stock and concentrated birch sap on the expression of moisturizing related genes
  • the fresh white birch sap stock purchased from Daxinganling Chaoyue Wild Berry Development Co., Ltd. is fed into low-temperature drying equipment, cooled to -65°C, vacuumed to 0.1Pa, and concentrated to 1.05 times, 1.1 times, 1.2 times, 1.5 times, and 2 Times, 4 times, 8 times.
  • Experimental reagents and consumables human primary keratinocytes, 6-well plates, keratinocyte culture medium, RNA extraction kit, reverse transcription kit, Trizol lysis solution, etc.
  • Inoculation Inoculate cells into a 6-well plate at a seeding density of 5E5/well, and incubate overnight in a 37°C and 5% CO 2 incubator;
  • RNA is extracted, reverse transcribed to cDNA, and then subjected to fluorescence quantitative PCR detection;
  • the 2- ⁇ CT method is used for calculation of the results, and the T-Test method is used for statistical analysis.
  • Example 2 The effect of birch sap stock and concentrated birch sap on protein expression related to moisturizing
  • the fresh white birch sap stock purchased from Daxinganling Chaoyue Wild Berry Development Co., Ltd. is fed into low-temperature drying equipment, cooled to -65°C, vacuumed to 0.1Pa, and concentrated to 1.05 times, 1.1 times, 1.2 times, 1.5 times, and 2 Times, 4 times, 8 times.
  • Experimental reagents and consumables human primary keratinocytes, 12-well plates, keratinocyte culture medium, ELISA test kits with different indicators, etc.
  • test steps are as follows:
  • Inoculation Inoculate in a 12-well culture plate at an inoculation density of 2E5/well, cultivate in an incubator at 37°C and 5% CO2, and change the medium every two days;
  • T-Test method is used for statistical analysis.
  • birch sap with a concentration of 1.1-4 times can significantly increase the expression of moisturizing-related proteins in keratinocytes, especially when the concentration is 1.2-2 times .
  • Example 3 Effects of birch sap stock and concentrated birch sap on the proliferation and differentiation of keratinocytes
  • the fresh birch sap stock solution purchased from Daxinganling Chaoyue Wild Berry Development Co., Ltd. is fed into the reverse osmosis circulation device, the operating pressure is controlled at 0.5-5bar, and the operating temperature is controlled at 20-35°C, and circulated until the birch sap is respectively concentrated to 1.1 Times, 1.2 times, 1.5 times, 2 times, 4 times.
  • Experimental reagents and consumables human primary keratinocytes, 96-well plate, keratinocyte culture medium, MTT kit.
  • the cells in logarithmic growth phase were routinely digested, seeded in a 96-well plate at a seeding density of 2E3/well, incubated in a 37°C, 5% CO2 incubator for 24 hours, added test samples, and set a negative control group (medium +cells), put in the incubator for 48 hours, suck out the culture solution, wash with PBS 3 times, suck dry PBS and add 100ul of 1mg/ml MTT solution to each well, continue to incubate for 4 hours in the 37°C, 5% CO2 incubator , Discard the supernatant, add 100ul DMSO to each well, measure the absorbance value (A) at 570nm with a microplate reader, and calculate the cell proliferation capacity according to the following formula:
  • Cell proliferation rate (%) (A administration group-A negative control group)/A negative control group * 100%.
  • the MTT value test results show that compared with birch tree sap, birch sap with a concentration of 1.1-4 times can significantly increase the proliferation of keratinocytes, so that it can quickly replenish the epidermis to form a barrier after the skin stratum corneum falls off. , To reduce the escape of moisture and achieve moisturizing effect.
  • the above moisturizing cream composition is prepared as follows:
  • the raw material 7 is heated and dissolved with the raw material 10.
  • a Corneometer (Courage & Khazaka, Germany) was used to test the skin moisture content of 20 volunteers.
  • the test method is as follows:
  • composition sample Approximately 0.02 grams of each composition sample was dropped into the pre-marked square area on the volunteer's arm once a day in the morning and evening, and the sample was evenly smeared on the area.
  • the above moisturizing essence composition is prepared as follows:
  • the moisturizing facial mask composition is prepared as follows:
  • the formula of the moisturizing lotion composition is shown in the following table:
  • the above moisturizing lotion composition is prepared as follows:

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Abstract

浓缩的桦树汁在保湿化妆品组合物中的用途，以及一种包含浓缩的桦树汁的保湿化妆品组合物。

Description

保湿化妆品组合物 技术领域
本发明涉及浓缩的桦树汁在保湿化妆品组合物中的用途，以及一种包含浓缩的桦树汁的保湿化妆品组合物。
背景技术
桦树为桦木科落叶乔木，目前全球大约有100个品种，主要分布于北温带和寒温带。其中，我国境内约有29个品种，主要分布在东北、西北、华北和西南等地。桦树大多生长于人为干涉较少、且没有工业污染的边远山区。桦树汁(也称桦树液)是桦树树皮被划开或树干钻孔流出的新鲜汁液，无色或浅黄色，无沉淀及杂质，具有淡淡的桦树清香。桦树汁内含大量的糖类、氨基酸、维生素、生物素、细胞分裂素、微量的矿质元素、芳香油、桦树醇、皂角甙等化合物，具有良好的保湿、抗炎、抗皱、美白等护肤功效。
发明内容
一方面，本发明提供一种浓缩的桦树汁，其浓缩倍数为约1.05-8倍，优选约1.1-4倍，更优选约1.2-2倍。
又一方面，本发明涉及浓缩的桦树汁在保湿化妆品组合物中的用途，其中浓缩的桦树汁的浓缩倍数为约1.05-8倍，优选约1.1-4倍，更优选约1.2-2倍。所述浓缩的桦树汁具有良好的补水保湿功效，能够提高角质层中皮肤的含水量，完善皮肤屏障，减少经皮水分流失，使皮肤更加水润、饱满、透亮。
本发明中所涉及的桦树汁得自桦木科桦树属，其可来自白桦(Betula alba)、柔毛桦(Betula pubescens)、垂枝桦(Betula Pendula)和亚洲白桦(Betula platyphylla)这四个品种。所述桦树汁为在解冻至早春发叶之间，人工在桦树的树干基部钻孔收集而得的无色透明、无沉淀、无杂物，具有桦树清香营养丰富的汁液。所述桦树汁可商购获得并原样采用，例如可购自大兴安岭超越野生浆果开发有限责任公司。
本发明中的浓缩桦树汁是将上述商购产品浓缩得到的。浓缩方法是本领域已知的，例如加热浓缩、低温真空浓缩、膜浓缩等。在本发明中，优选通过低温冷冻浓缩或膜浓缩工艺进行浓缩，例如，将商购的桦树汁原液输入低温干燥设备，降温至-40℃至-70℃，抽真空至0.1-30Pa而进行低温真空浓缩，从而得到不同浓缩倍数的浓缩桦树汁。
皮肤保湿涉及两个过程：其一是吸水，将真皮层中水分转移至表皮层；其二是锁水，防止角质层中的水分散发至空气中。二者共同作用，可提高皮肤角质层中的水分含量。桦树汁能够促进与皮肤屏障和水合能力相关的基因的表达，特别是水通道蛋白的表达，并且能够增强角质形成细胞的增殖和分化能力。
意料不到地，本发明人发现，与未浓缩的桦树汁原液相比，浓缩桦树汁具有显著更好 的滋润保湿功效，表现为能够促进与皮肤屏障和水合能力相关的基因和蛋白的表达，促进角质形成细胞的增殖和分化，增加皮肤的吸水和锁水能力，完善皮肤屏障，增加表皮含水量，减少水分外逸。
进一步地，本发明人还发现，浓缩桦树汁的保湿功效与其浓缩程度并非简单的线性关系，而是随着浓缩倍数增加而呈现先增加后下降的趋势，即，当桦树汁浓缩倍数达到一定程度时，浓缩桦树汁会一定程度的抑制角质形成细胞的增殖和活力，抑制细胞内外与保湿相关的蛋白的表达。因此，控制桦树汁的浓缩倍数是关键的，在本发明中，控制桦树汁的浓缩倍数为约1.05-8倍，优选约1.1-4倍，更优选约1.2-2倍。
另一方面，本发明涉及一种保湿化妆品组合物，其包含(A)所述浓缩的桦树汁，其中浓缩的桦树汁的浓缩倍数为约1.05-8倍，优选约1.1-4倍，更优选约1.2-2倍。所述保湿化妆品组合物显示了优异的保湿功效。
在优选的实施方案中，本发明的保湿化妆品组合物不包含EDTA盐、多磷酸钠、偏磷酸钠、葡萄糖酸等螯合剂。
在优选的实施方案中，本发明的保湿化妆品组合物不包含任何外加的水，但不排除各组分中固有地包含的水分。
所述浓缩桦树汁在所述保湿化妆品组合物中的含量为约18-98％重量，优选20-95％重量，更优选22-90％重量，最优选30-90％重量，基于所述保湿化妆品组合物的总重量。
除了(A)所述浓缩的桦树汁外，所述保湿化妆品组合物还任选地包含(B)护肤化妆品中常用的成分，其包括媒介物、活性成分和辅料等。组分(B)是本领域已知的，本领域技术人员可根据需要选择其类型和用量，例如，组分(B)的含量为约2-82％重量，基于所述化妆品组合物的总重量。
所述媒介物包括例如稀释剂、分散剂或载体等，其实例包括但不限于乙醇、双丙甘醇、丁二醇等。所述媒介物在所述化妆品组合物中的含量是本领域已知的，例如，其通常占组分(B)总重量的0.5-20％。
所述活性成分包括例如润肤剂、保湿剂等。
所述润肤剂的实例包括但不限于橄榄油、澳洲坚果油、甜杏仁油、葡萄籽油、鳄梨油、玉米油、芝麻油、大豆油、花生油、白池花籽油、红花籽油、狗牙蔷薇果油、刺阿干树仁油、霍霍巴籽油、向日葵籽油、毛瑞榈果油、角鲨烷、棕榈酸乙基己酯、肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、氢化聚异丁烯、异十六烷、异十二烷、碳酸二乙基己酯、碳酸二辛酯、月桂酰肌氨酸异丙酯、异壬酸异壬酯、氢化聚癸烯、甘油三(乙基己酸)酯、鲸蜡醇乙基己酸酯、双-二乙氧基二甘醇环己烷1,4-二羧酸酯、辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯、油醇芥酸酯、辛基十二醇肉豆蔻酸酯、辛基十二醇、聚二甲基硅氧烷、辛基聚甲基硅氧烷、鲸蜡基聚二甲基硅氧烷、环五聚二甲基硅氧烷等的一种或多种。固体润肤剂的实例包括但不限于鲸蜡醇、硬脂醇、鲸蜡硬脂醇、山嵛醇、鲨肝醇、月桂酸、肉豆蔻酸、棕榈酸、硬脂酸、蜂蜡、小烛树蜡、巴西棕榈蜡、羊毛脂、地蜡、霍霍巴籽蜡、石蜡、微晶蜡、氢化米糠蜡、氢化椰油甘油酯类、甘油山嵛酸酯/二十酸酯、肉豆蔻醇肉豆蔻酸酯、双-二甘油多酰基己二酸酯-2、牛油果树果 脂、木鲁星果棕籽脂等中的一种或多种。所述润肤剂在所述化妆品组合物中的含量是本领域已知的，例如其通常占组分(B)总重量的1-50％。
所述保湿剂的实例包括但不限于甘油、双甘油、丁二醇、丙二醇、1,3-丙二醇、双丙甘醇、1,2-戊二醇、聚乙二醇-8、聚乙二醇-32、甲基葡糖醇聚醚-10、甲基葡糖醇聚醚-20、PEG/PPG-17/6共聚物、甘油聚醚-7、甘油聚醚-26、甘油葡糖苷、PPG-10甲基葡糖醚、PPG-20甲基葡糖醚、PEG/PPG/聚丁二醇-8/5/3甘油、蔗糖、海藻糖、鼠李糖、甘露糖、棉子糖、甜菜碱、赤藓醇、木糖醇、尿素、甘油聚醚-5乳酸酯、透明质酸钠、水解透明质酸钠、乙酰化透明质酸钠、聚谷氨酸钠、水解小核菌胶、出芽短梗酶多糖、银耳多糖、酸豆籽多糖等中的一种或多种。所述保湿剂在所述化妆品组合物中的含量是本领域已知的，例如，其通常占组分(B)总重量的1-30％。
所述辅料包括例如乳化剂、增稠剂、防腐剂、香料等。
所述乳化剂的实例包括但不限于鲸蜡硬脂醇橄榄油酸酯、山梨坦橄榄油酸酯、聚山梨醇酯-60、聚山梨醇酯-80、甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、PEG-20甲基葡糖倍半硬脂酸酯、PEG-40氢化蓖麻油、PPG-26-丁醇聚醚-26、PEG-4聚甘油-2硬脂酸酯、PEG-60氢化蓖麻油、硬脂醇聚醚-2、硬脂醇聚醚-21、PPG-13-癸基十四醇聚醚-24、鲸蜡硬脂基葡糖苷、PEG-100硬脂酸酯、甘油硬脂酸酯、甘油硬脂酸酯SE、椰油基葡糖苷、鲸蜡硬脂醇聚醚-25、PEG-40硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-3甲基葡糖二硬脂酸酯、甘油硬脂酸酯柠檬酸酯、聚甘油-10硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-10肉豆蔻酸酯、聚甘油-10二油酸酯、聚甘油-10月桂酸酯、聚甘油-10异硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-10油酸酯、聚甘油-10二异硬脂酸酯、聚甘油-6月桂酸酯、聚甘油-6肉豆蔻酸酯、蔗糖硬脂酸酯、蔗糖多硬脂酸酯等中的一种或多种。所述乳化剂在所述化妆品组合物中的含量是本领域已知的，例如，其通常占组分(B)总重量的0.5-10％。
所述增稠剂的实例包括但不限于卡波姆类、丙烯酸(酯)类及其衍生物、黄原胶、阿拉伯胶、聚乙二醇-14M、聚乙二醇-90M、琥珀酰聚糖、羟乙基纤维素、羟丙基纤维素、羟丙基甲基纤维素等高分子聚合物中的一种或多种。所述增稠剂在所述化妆品组合物中的含量是本领域已知的，例如，其通常占组分(B)总重量的0.1-10％。
所述防腐剂的实例包括但不限于羟苯甲酯、羟苯丙酯、苯氧乙醇、苯甲醇、苯乙醇、双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲、山梨酸钾、苯甲酸钠、氯苯甘醚、脱氢乙酸钠、辛酰羟肟酸、1,2-己二醇、1,2-戊二醇、对羟基苯乙酮、辛甘醇、甘油辛酸酯、十一碳烯酸甘油酯、山梨坦辛酸酯、乙基己基甘油、牡丹根提取物等中的一种或多种。所述防腐剂在所述化妆品组合物中的含量是本领域已知的，例如，其通常占组分(B)总重量的0.01-2％。
本发明的化妆品组合物可以通过本领域已知的任何合适的方法制备。例如，使用化妆品领域中常用的溶解槽、乳化锅、分散器、输送泵等设备制备。制备时先将水溶性物质投入水相溶解釜，将油溶性物质投入油相溶解釜，将两个釜的温度加热至约80℃，其中对于易结块的原料，可先用分散器将其预分散。待溶解完成后将油相和水相输送至乳化锅中，均质乳化约5-15分钟。乳化完成后将料体温度降至常温，加入任选的香精、防腐剂等，并视需要调节产物的pH。相关检测指标都合格后方可灌装出货。以上制备方法可根据剂型 要求进行删减或调整，可根据需要制备膏、霜、乳液、精华液等剂型。
实施例
以下结合实施例，对本发明进行进一步详细说明。但是，应当理解为，这些实施例、对比例仅仅是用于更详细地说明本发明，而不应理解为用于以任何形式限制本发明所附权利要求书的范围。
实施例1：桦树汁原液和浓缩桦树汁对保湿相关基因表达的影响
在本实施例中，测试和对比桦树汁原液和不同浓缩倍数的浓缩桦树汁对保湿相关基因表达的影响。
1.桦树汁的浓缩
将购自大兴安岭超越野生浆果开发有限责任公司的新鲜白桦树汁原液输入低温干燥设备，降温至-65℃，抽真空至0.1Pa，分别浓缩至1.05倍、1.1倍、1.2倍、1.5倍、2倍、4倍、8倍。
2.测试
实验仪器：荧光定量PCR仪(Roche)、超净工作台(苏净)、二氧化碳培养箱(Binder)、酶标仪(BIO-TEK)、微量振荡器。
实验试剂与耗材：人原代角质形成细胞、6孔板、角质形成细胞培养液、RNA提取试剂盒、反转录试剂盒、Trizol裂解液等。
基于成纤维细胞的基因表达分析步骤如下：
(1)接种：以5E5/孔的接种密度，接种细胞至6孔板中，在37℃和5％CO 2培养箱中孵育过夜；
(2)给药：待6孔板中细胞铺板率达到60％左右时，加入各组别的受试物，每组设6个复孔；
(3)收样：在37℃和5％CO 2培养箱中24h后，弃掉培养液，每孔加入1mL Trizol，吹打裂解细胞后，收样；
(4)PCR检测：提取RNA，反转录至cDNA后，进行荧光定量PCR检测；
(5)分析：采用2 -△△CT方法进行结果计算，采用T-Test方法进行统计分析。
测试结果如下表所示。
Figure PCTCN2020102901-appb-000001
Figure PCTCN2020102901-appb-000002
注：*表示与原汁相比为显著，P值小于0.05；**表示与原汁相比为极显著，P值小于0.01。
以上结果表明，与桦树汁原汁相比，浓缩倍数为1.1-4倍的桦树汁显著提高了角质形成细胞中与保湿相关的基因的表达量，尤其是当浓缩倍数为1.2-2倍时，与皮肤屏障相关的角质转谷酰胺酶(TGM1)、表皮紧密连接蛋白Z0-1和CLDN，与皮肤锁水能力相关的丝聚合蛋白(FLG)，以及与皮肤吸水能力相关的水通道蛋白(AQP3)的基因表达量均非常显著地高于桦树汁原汁。
实施例2：桦树汁原液和浓缩桦树汁对与保湿相关的蛋白表达的影响
在本实施例中，测试和对比桦树汁原液和不同浓缩倍数的桦树汁对与保湿相关的蛋白表达的影响。
1.桦树汁的浓缩
将购自大兴安岭超越野生浆果开发有限责任公司的新鲜白桦树汁原液输入低温干燥设备，降温至-65℃，抽真空至0.1Pa，分别浓缩至1.05倍、1.1倍、1.2倍、1.5倍、2倍、4倍、8倍。
2.测试
实验仪器：超净工作台(苏净)、洗板机(BIO-RAD)、酶标仪(BIO-TEK)、二氧化碳培养箱(Binder)
实验试剂及耗材：人原代角质形成细胞、12孔板、角质形成细胞培养液、不同指标的ELISA检测试剂盒等。
测试步骤如下：
(1)接种：以2E5/孔的接种密度，接种于12孔培养板中，在37℃和5％CO2培养箱中培养，每两天换一次培养基；
(2)给药：待细胞融合再次达60％以上时，加入不同组别的受试物，每组设6个复孔；
(3)收样：在37℃和5％CO 2培养箱中48h后，弃掉培养液，每孔加入1mL Trizol，吹打裂解细胞后，收样；
(4)检测：按照ELISA试剂盒的测定方法进行指标测定；
(5)分析：采用T-Test方法进行统计分析。
测试结果如下表所示。
Figure PCTCN2020102901-appb-000003
Figure PCTCN2020102901-appb-000004
注：*表示与原汁相比为显著，P值小于0.05；**表示与原汁相比为极显著，P值小于0.01。
以上结果表明，与桦树汁原汁相比，浓缩倍数为1.1-4倍的桦树汁能够显著提高角质形成细胞中与保湿相关蛋白的表达量，尤其是当浓缩倍数为1.2-2倍时，与皮肤屏障相关的角质转谷酰胺酶(TGM1)、表皮紧密连接蛋白Z0-1和CLDN，与皮肤锁水能力相关的丝聚合蛋白(FLG)，以及与皮肤吸水能力相关的水通道蛋白(AQP3)的表达量均非常显著地高于桦树汁原汁。
实施例3：桦树汁原液和浓缩桦树汁对角质形成细胞增殖和分化能力的影响
在本实施例中，测试和对比桦树汁原液和不同浓缩倍数的桦树汁对角质形成细胞增殖和分化能力的影响。
1.桦树汁的浓缩
将购自大兴安岭超越野生浆果开发有限责任公司的新鲜白桦树汁原液输入反渗透循环装置，运行压力控制在0.5-5bar，运行温度控制在20-35℃，循环，直至桦树汁分别浓缩至1.1倍、1.2倍、1.5倍、2倍、4倍。
2.测试方法
实验仪器：超净工作台(苏净)、洗板机(BIO-RAD)、酶标仪(BIO-TEK)、二氧化碳培养箱(Binder)
实验试剂及耗材：人原代角质形成细胞、96孔板、角质形成细胞培养液、MTT试剂盒。
实验方法：取对数生长期细胞常规消化，以2E3/孔的接种密度接种于96孔板，37℃，5％CO2培养箱中培养24小时，加入测试样品，同时设置阴性对照组(培养基+细胞)，置于培养箱中作用48小时后吸出培养液，并用PBS清洗3次，吸干PBS每孔加1mg/ml MTT溶液100ul，继续在37℃，5％CO2培养箱中培养4小时，弃上清，每孔加100ul DMSO，用酶标仪在570nm下测定吸光度值(A)，并根据下式计算细胞的增殖能力：
细胞增殖率(％)＝(A给药组-A阴性对照组)/A阴性对照组*100％。
测试结果如下表所示。
Figure PCTCN2020102901-appb-000005
注：*表示与原汁相比为显著，P值小于0.05；**表示与原汁相比为极显著，P值小于0.01。
MTT值测试结果表明，与桦树汁原液相比，浓缩倍数为1.1-4倍的桦树汁能够显著提高角质形成细胞的增殖能力，使其能在皮肤角质层脱落后快速补充表皮形成屏障，减少水分外逸，实现保湿功效。
实施例4：保湿面霜组合物的制备
所述保湿面霜组合物的配方如下表所示：
序号 成分 重量％
1 1.2倍浓缩桦树汁 62.2
2 聚谷氨酸钠 0.1
3 水解透明质酸钠 0.1
4 黄原胶 0.2
5 尿囊素 0.2
6 羟苯甲酯 0.2
7 氢化卵磷脂 0.5
8 泛醇 0.5
9 甜菜碱 3
10 丁二醇 4
11 甘油 6
12 卡波姆 0.2
13 羟苯丙酯 0.1
14 植物甾醇/辛基十二醇月桂酰谷氨酸酯 1
15 微晶蜡 1
16 C10-18脂酸甘油三酯类 2
17 鲸蜡硬酯基葡糖苷、鲸蜡硬脂醇 2
18 鲸蜡硬脂醇 2
19 PEG-100硬脂酸酯、甘油硬脂酸酯 3
20 辛酸/癸酸甘油三酯 4
21 椰油醇-辛酸酯/癸酸酯 5
22 聚二甲基硅氧烷 2
23 氨丁三醇 0.2
24 苯氧乙醇 0.5
上述保湿面霜组合物如下制备：
1.将原料4用原料11分散均匀。
2.将原料7用原料10加热溶解。
3.将原料1投入水相锅，边搅拌边撒入原料12，待原料12号完全溶胀后加入原料2、3、4、5、6、7、8、9、10、11，升温至80℃。
4.将原料13、14、15、16、17、18、19、20、21、22投入油相锅，升温至80℃。
5.将水相锅中的原料抽入乳化锅，高速均质5分钟。
6.将油相锅中的原料抽入乳化锅，高速均质5分钟，保温10分钟。
7.边搅拌边降温至50℃，投入原料23和24，慢速均质3分钟。
8.边搅拌边降温至40℃。
9.检验合格后出料。
在本实施例中，采用Corneometer(Courage&Khazaka,德国)对20名志愿者的皮肤水分含量进行测试。测试方法如下：
每天早晚各一次将约0.02克的各组合物样品滴加到志愿者的手臂上事先标记的方形区域内，并将样品均匀涂抹于该区域内。用仪器测定样品使用前(基准)和使用14天的皮肤表皮的水分含量(单位：a.u.)，每一个区域重复测试三次取平均值。
测试结果显示，20名受试者的皮肤平均含水量提高了158％，表明该面霜具有极其显著的保湿性能。
实施例5：保湿精华液组合物
所述保湿精华液组合物的配方如下表所示：
序号 成分 重量％
1 1.5倍浓缩桦树汁 77.41
2 聚谷氨酸钠 0.05
3 黄原胶 0.05
4 尿囊素 0.1
5 羟苯甲酯 0.2
6 PEG-60氢化蓖麻油 0.2
7 水解透明质酸钠 0.2
8 海藻糖 0.5
9 PEG/PPG-17/6共聚物 1
10 甜菜碱 2
11 双丙甘醇 3
12 PEG-8 5
13 甘油 6
14 丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物 0.05
15 卡波姆 0.2
16 甘油三(乙基己酸)酯 0.5
17 聚二甲基硅氧烷 1
18 鲸蜡醇乙基己酸酯 2
19 氨丁三醇 0.14
20 苯氧乙醇 0.4
上述保湿精华液组合物如下制备：
1.将原料3用原料11分散均匀。
2.将原料1投入乳化锅，边搅拌边撒入原料14和15，待原料14和原料15完全溶胀后，加入原料2、3、4、5、6、7、8、9、10、11、12和13，边搅拌边升温至80℃，高速均质5分钟，保温10分钟。
3.边搅拌边降温至50℃，加入原料16、17和18，高速均质5分钟。
4.边搅拌边降温至50℃，加入原料19和原料20。
5.边搅拌边降温至40℃。
6.检验合格后出料。
20名受试者使用上述配方的保湿精华液2周后，对使用情况进行主观评估。结果有19人反映皮肤干燥程度明显改善，含水量显著增加。其中有17人反映皮肤变得更加光滑细嫩有弹性，面部及眼部干纹得到明显改善。
实施例6：保湿面膜组合物的制备
所述保湿面膜组合物的配方如下表所示：
序号 成分 重量％
1 1.1倍浓缩桦树汁 90.75
2 水解透明质酸钠 0.05
3 聚谷氨酸钠 0.05
4 透明质酸钠 0.05
5 尿囊素 0.1
6 黄原胶 0.1
7 羟苯甲酯 0.2
8 泛醇 0.3
9 甜菜碱 2
10 甘油 2
11 双丙甘醇 4
12 卡波姆 0.2
13 辛甘醇 0.1
14 氨丁三醇 0.1
上述保湿面膜组合物如下制备：
1.将原料6用原料10分散均匀。
2.将原料1投入乳化锅，边搅拌边撒入原料12，待原料12完全溶胀后再投入原料2、3、4、5、6、7、8、9、10、11。
3.边搅拌边升温至80℃，高速均质5分钟，保温10分钟。
4.边搅拌边降温至40℃，加入原料13、14。
5.搅拌10分钟。
6.检验合格后出料。
20名受试者使用上述配方的保湿面膜2周后，对使用情况进行主观评估。结果显示，20名受试者均反映使用后皮肤干燥程度明显改善，含水量显著增加。其中有18人反映使用后皮肤变得更加光滑细嫩，且持续使用能够显著改善皮肤屏障，减少皮肤问题。
实施例7：保湿乳液组合物
所述保湿乳液组合物的配方如下表所示：
Figure PCTCN2020102901-appb-000006
Figure PCTCN2020102901-appb-000007
上述保湿乳液组合物如下制备：
1.将原料5用原料10分散均匀。
2.将原料1投入乳化锅，边搅拌边撒入原料12，待原料12完全溶胀后再投入原料2、3、4、5、6、7、8、9、10、11。
3.边搅拌边升温至80℃，高速均质5分钟，保温10分钟。
4.加入原料13和原料14，高速均质5分钟，保温10分钟。
5.边搅拌边降温至60℃，加入原料15。
6.降温至50℃，加入原料16和原料17，慢速均质3分钟。
7.边搅拌边降温至40℃。
8.检验合格后出料。
以上所述实施例的技术方案是本发明优选实施方式，在不脱离本发明原理的前提下还可以进行若干改进和变换，这些改进和变化也应视为在本发明的保护范围内。

Claims (6)

  1. 一种浓缩的桦树汁，其浓缩倍数为1.05-8倍，优选1.1-4倍，更优选1.2-2倍。
  2. 浓缩的桦树汁在保湿化妆品组合物中的用途，其中所述浓缩的桦树汁的浓缩倍数为1.05-8倍，优选1.1-4倍，更优选1.2-2倍。
  3. 一种保湿化妆品组合物，其包含(A)浓缩的桦树汁，其中所述浓缩的桦树汁的浓缩倍数为1.05-8倍，优选1.1-4倍，更优选1.2-2倍。
  4. 权利要求3的保湿化妆品组合物，其包含18-98％重量，优选20-95％重量，更优选22-90％重量，最优选30-90％重量的(A)浓缩的桦树汁，基于所述保湿化妆品组合物的总重量。
  5. 权利要求3或4的保湿化妆品组合物，其中所述组合物不包含任何外加的水。
  6. 权利要求3-5任何一项的保湿化妆品组合物，其中所述组合物还包含(B)护肤化妆品中常用的成分。
PCT/CN2020/102901 2019-07-30 2020-07-20 保湿化妆品组合物 WO2021017912A1 (zh)

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