WO2015032097A1 - Fil composite élastique filé à âme et tissu tissé le comprenant - Google Patents

Fil composite élastique filé à âme et tissu tissé le comprenant Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2015032097A1
WO2015032097A1 PCT/CN2013/083149 CN2013083149W WO2015032097A1 WO 2015032097 A1 WO2015032097 A1 WO 2015032097A1 CN 2013083149 W CN2013083149 W CN 2013083149W WO 2015032097 A1 WO2015032097 A1 WO 2015032097A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
yarn
staple
spun
composite yarn
elastic performance
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/CN2013/083149
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Wing Kay Leo YUNG
Original Assignee
Central Fabrics Limited
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Central Fabrics Limited filed Critical Central Fabrics Limited
Priority to PCT/CN2013/083149 priority Critical patent/WO2015032097A1/fr
Priority to EP13889765.7A priority patent/EP2867393B1/fr
Priority to US14/415,142 priority patent/US20160024692A1/en
Priority to CN201380078086.3A priority patent/CN105378166B/zh
Publication of WO2015032097A1 publication Critical patent/WO2015032097A1/fr
Priority to HK15110826.2A priority patent/HK1210236A1/xx

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/324—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic using a drawing frame
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/36—Cored or coated yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to core spun elastic composite yarn having a fibrous sheath covering an elastic performance filament and a staple spun yarn.
  • the present core spun yarn is woven into fabrics exhibiting excellent stretch, recovery, hand feel characteristics and improved yarn piecing properties.
  • Conventional stretch fabric is commonly made up of core spun spandex yarn. Warping and/or filling of the conventional core spun spandex yarn result in fabric of high shrinkage and stretchability which requires additional finishing process, such as heat setting. Generally, the conventional stretch fabric is associated with drawbacks, such as limited elongation and growth, and stability of the fabric width are being affected.
  • Elastic bi-component polyester filament has been disclosed in US Pat. No. 3,671,379 and woven stretch fabrics comprising this bi-component polyester filament is disclosed in US Pat. No. 5,922,433, US Pat. No.7,143,790 and US Pat. No, 7,299,828.
  • these fabrics woven from bare bi-component polyester filament have a strong synthetic feel and look. Such fabrics are therefore limited to be used in filling and denim.
  • piece dyeing these woven stretch fabrics of bi-component polyester filament must be performed in two separate dyeing processes and elongation of the fabric is inevitably affected.
  • US Pat. No. 7,310,932 discloses fabric made up of core spun yarn comprising bi-component polyester filament covered with staple fibers. Although the fabric disclosed in the '932 patent is associated with improved appearance and hand-feel, grinning effect and limited elongation of the fabric remain.
  • US Pat. No. US 7,299,828 B2 and US 8,093,160 disclose fabric made up of core spun yarn containing at least one elastic performance filament and at least one inelastic or elastic filament.
  • Woven fabric made of such yarns can have a good elongation and recovery, but the existing problem of grinning effect, low piecing strength and synthetic texture remain unsolved.
  • the objective of the present invention is to provide a new core spun elastic composite yarn having excellent elongation, excellent recovery, and better hand feel properties, and solve the problem of grinning effect and low yarn piecing strength at the piecing position as compared to existing composite yarns.
  • the present composite yarn is suitable for denim, piece dyed fabric, warp and filling.
  • the present invention is a core spun elastic composite yarn comprises at least one elastic performance filament, and at least one staple spun yarn.
  • said elastic performance filament ranges from about 20 denier to about 140 denier.
  • said staple spun yarn to have an English cotton yarn count (Ne) ranging from about 8 to about 100, preferably from about 20 to 60.
  • the present invention further comprises a fibrous sheath which forms a composite yarn with said at least one elastic performance filament and at least one staple spun yarn.
  • Said fibrous sheath may be staple fibers such as cotton, polyester, nylon, rayon, wool, acrylic and a combination thereof.
  • the fibrous sheath ranges from English cotton yarn count from about Ne 4 to Ne 60.
  • the fibrous sheath ranges from Ne 7 to Ne 40.
  • Another objective of the present invention is to provide a textile fabric woven from the core spun elastic composite yarn of the present invention.
  • the textile fabric is a denim fabric.
  • FIG. 1 is a side view of a process and apparatus for manufacturing the core spun elastic composite yarn in accordance with one embodiment of the present invention.
  • FIG. 2 is a front view of a process and apparatus for manufacturing the core spun elastic composite yarn in accordance with one embodiment of the present invention.
  • FIG. 3 is a side view of a process and apparatus for manufacturing the core spun elastic composite yarn in accordance with another embodiment of the present invention.
  • FIG. 4 is a front view of a process and apparatus for manufacturing the core spun elastic composite yarn in accordance with another embodiment of the present invention.
  • FIG. 5 is a side view of a process and apparatus for manufacturing the core spun elastic composite yarn in accordance with a third embodiment of the present invention.
  • FIG. 6 is a side view of a process and apparatus for manufacturing the core spun elastic composite yarn in accordance with a third embodiment of the present invention.
  • FIGs. 7 show piecing position of elastic yarn with one elastic performance filament and one inelastic polyester filament (FIG. 7a), and piecing position of elastic yarn with one elastic performance filament and one staple spun yarn (FIG. 7b).
  • FIG. 8 is a table showing the physical properties of textile fabrics woven from three exemplary embodiments of the present invention.
  • Warp means the lengthwise threads in a woven fabric.
  • Fibers or “weft” means threads widthways in a fabric as woven.
  • Spandex means a manufactured fiber with good elasticity in which the fiber-forming substance is a long-chain synthetic polymer comprised of at least 85% of segmented polyurethane.
  • Filament means a fibrous of indefinite length.
  • Fiber means a fibrous strand of definite length, such as staple fiber.
  • Fiber means a product of substantial length and relatively small cross-section consisting of fibers and/or filament(s) with or without twist.
  • “Sliver” means an assemblage of fibers in continuous form without twist.
  • Roving is a name given, individually or collectively, to the relatively fine fibrous strands used in the later or final processes of preparation for spinning.
  • Spinning means the drafting and where appropriate the insertion of twist in natural or staple man-made fibers to form a yarn.
  • Core Yarn means a yarn consisting of a number of component yarns, of which one or more are constrained to lie permanently at the central axis of the composite thread, whilst the remaining yarns act as covering yarns.
  • spun yarn means a yarn that consists of staple fibers held together usually by twist.
  • Core spun yarn means a yarn consisting of a yarn surrounded by staples fibers.
  • the yarn has the strength and/or elongation of the central thread whilst exhibiting most of the other characteristics of the surface staple fibers.
  • “Draft ratio” or “Draft” is the ratio between length of a stock filamentary strand from a package thereof which is fed into a spinning machine to the length of the filamentary strand delivered from the spinning machine. A draft ratio of greater than 1.0 is thus a measure of the reduction in bulk and weight of the stock filamentary strand.
  • Elastic recovery means the immediate change in elongation experienced by a textile during a loading cycle when, after being held at a defined elongation for a defined time, the applied tension is removed.
  • the present core spun elastic composite yarn comprises at least one elastic performance filament, at least one staple spun yarn and a fibrous sheath comprised of a mass of staple fibers. Said fibrous sheath may surround the at least one elastic performance filament and the at least one staple spun yarn independently. In another embodiment, the at least one elastic performance filament and the at least one staple spun yarn are first twisted together to form a central thread and the fibrous sheath surrounds said central thread.
  • any commercially available elastic performance filament may be employed in the present composite yarn.
  • the elastic performance filament is made from spandex or lastol polymers.
  • Other elastic performance filament includes, but is not limited to, ethylene/ -olefm interpolymers.
  • U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,272,236, 5,278,272, 5,322,728, 5,380,810, 5,472,775, 5,645,542, 6,140,442 and 6,225,243 disclose various examples of elastic performance filament applicable for the present invention, disclosures thereof are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.
  • the elastic performance filament of the present invention typically has 40 to 140 denier and 1% to 40% of total weight of the composite yarn.
  • the draft of the elastic performance filament is typically ranges from 1.5 to 5.0.
  • the staple spun yarn of the present composite yarn may be made of any material known to those skilled in the art.
  • staple spun yarn suitable for the present invention includes, but are not limited to, natural, re-generated, synthetic, dyed, non-dyed fibers.
  • the present staple spun yarn may be s-twist or z-twist.
  • the staple spun yarn has an English cotton count ranges Ne 8 to Ne 100.
  • the English cotton count is Ne 20 to Ne 60.
  • the present staple spun yarn is about 4% to 50% of the total weight of the present composite yarn.
  • the draft of the staple spun yarn is 1.0 to 1.3.
  • the fibrous sheath is formed from a relatively dense mass of randomly oriented entangled spun synthetic staple fibers (e.g., polyamides, polyesters and the like) or spun natural staple fibers Other examples includes, but is not limited to, cotton, viscose rayon, polyester, wool, acrylic or a combination thereof. Particularly, the fibrous sheath may be ring-spun from a roving of staple fibers and forms an incoherent mass of entangled spun staple fibers. Length of the staple fiber is not critical. In yet another embodiment, the fibrous sheath ranges from English cotton yarn count from about Ne 4 to Ne 60. In yet another embodiment, the fibrous sheath ranges from Ne 7 to Ne 40.
  • entangled spun synthetic staple fibers e.g., polyamides, polyesters and the like
  • Other examples includes, but is not limited to, cotton, viscose rayon, polyester, wool, acrylic or a combination thereof.
  • the fibrous sheath may be ring-spun from a roving
  • the present core spun elastic composite yarn may be used as a warp and/ or filling yarn to form woven fabrics exhibiting excellent recovery characteristics.
  • the present composite yarn has a yarn count ranges Ne 4 to Ne 60, preferably Ne 7 to Ne 40.
  • the fabric woven from the present composite yarn is a plain weave, twill weave and/ or satin weave pattern.
  • Such fabrics in accordance with the present invention have at least about 20% stretch or greater. More specifically, fabrics in accordance with the present invention exhibits improved less synthetic hand-feel, improved hairiness, resistant to abrasion as compared to existing composite yarns, such as those having a filament core/ central thread of an elastic filament combining with an inelastic/ elastic filament.
  • Fabrics of the present invention also have reduced or no grinning effect and high piecing strength, thereby efficiency of the weaving process is improved.
  • the present composite yarn is made of 100% cotton or rayon/cotton blend, the common white spot problem occurs in denim fabric is eliminated when the composite yarn is used as warp.
  • 100% cotton or rayon/cotton blend of the present composite yarn also avoid two dyeing process for piece dyed fabrics.
  • the present composite yarn may be manufactured by any staple fiber spinning process, such as core spinning, ring spinning and the like as readily known by those skilled in the art.
  • Process and apparatus for making the present elastic core spun composite yarn is shown in FIGs. 1 and 2.
  • the elastic performance filament 21 and staple spun yarn 22 are unwound from the tube 34 & 35 respectively in the direction of 41 & 42 at different speed according to the desired draft.
  • the draft of elastic performance filament is calculated by the ratio of the surface speed of front roller 31 and the tube 34, whereas the draft of staple spun yarn is calculated by the ratio of the surface speed of front roller 31 and the tube 35.
  • the elastic performance filament has a draft which is at least twice or three times the draft of the staple spun yarn.
  • the staple fibers or roving 13 and 14 are unwound from tube 11 and 12 to meet the elastic performance filament 21 and staple spun yarn 22 at the front roller 31.
  • the position of the elastic performance filament on the roving 13 is adjusted by roller 36 and guide 38 whereas the position of staple spun yarn 22 on the roving 14 is adjusted by roller 37 and guide 39.
  • elastic performance filament 21 and staple spun yarn 22 are individually twisted with staple fibers or roving 13 and 14 first, and thereafter twisting together at the front roller 31 forming the present core spun elastic composite yarn.
  • the alignment of the elastic performance filament 21 and staple spun yarn 22 on the roving can effectively reduce the grinning effect.
  • the present core staple spun yarn has reduced grinning effect and improved the piecing strength at the piecing position.
  • FIGs. 3 and 4 Another embodiment of process and core spinning apparatus to make the present composite yarn is shown in FIGs. 3 and 4.
  • the elastic performance filament 21 and that staple spun yarn 22 are unwound from the tubes 34 and 35 respectively in the directions of 41 and 42 at different speed according to the desired draft.
  • Filament 21 and yarn 22 are twisted together by roller 36 first forming a filament strand/ central thread, thereafter staple fibers or roving of 13 and 14 are twisted around the filament strand to form core spun yarn l.
  • the position of the elastic performance filament 21 and staple spun yarn 22 on the staple fibers or roving 13 and 14 is adjusted by roller 36 and guides 38 and 39.
  • FIGs. 5 and 6 Another embodiment of the core spinning apparatus is shown in FIGs. 5 and 6, wherein the elastic performance filament is twisted with the staple spun yarn to form a central strand 23 beforehand.
  • the apparatus that is useful in twisting the elastic performance filament with the staple spun yarn includes, but is not limited to, ring spinning machine, open end spinning machine and vortex spinning machine.
  • the filamentary strand is unwound from the tube 34 in the direction 41.
  • the draft of central strand is calculated by the ratio of the surface speed of front roller 31 and the tube 34.
  • the staple fibers or roving 13 and 14 are unwound from the tubes 11 and 12 to meet central strand 23 at the front roller 31.
  • the position of the core staple spun yarn on the roving 13 and 14 is adjusted by roller 36 and guides 38 and 39.
  • the grinning effect of the conventional elastic core yarn which comprises an elastic performance filament and inelastic or elastic filament at the piecing position is shown in FIG. 7a.
  • the present invention of elastic core spun composite yarn comprises elastic performance filament and staple spun yarn as the filament core has no grinning effect at the piecing position (FIG. 7b),
  • the present elastic core spun composite yarn can be used to provide a woven stretch fabric designed as a filling stretch, warp stretch or bi-stretched by using the elastic core spun composite yarn in a warp, weft or filling and warp directions respectively.
  • Stretch fabric woven from the present composite yarn may have the fabric weight ranging from 4 oz/square.yard to 16 oz/square.yard (oz/sq.yd).
  • a denim stretch fabric having a weft yarn Ne 16 in accordance with the present invention includes cotton fibrous sheath and a core polyester staple spun yarn Ne 45 and spandex of 40 denier.
  • the denim stretch fabric exhibits good elongation (27.4%) and growth (3.0%).
  • the weft yarn of Ne 16 in accordance with the present invention comprises a core strand of 100% cotton spun yarn Ne 45 and spandex of 40 denier covered by 100% cotton fibrous sheath.
  • the fabric has good elongation (34.6%) and growth (5.4%).
  • the fabric exhibits 100% cotton feel and no grinning effect in the fabric and at the piecing position.
  • the present core strand of Example 2 is also useful as warp.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne un fil composite élastique filé à âme, qui comprend une gaine d'au moins une fibre dure, au moins un filament de performance élastique et au moins un fil filé court. Ladite au moins une fibre dure a un numéro anglais coton allant de Ne 4 à Ne 60, ledit au moins un filament de performance élastique a un denier allant de 20 à 140 et ledit au moins fil filé court est formé à partir de fibres courtes naturelles et/ou synthétiques ayant un numéro coton allant de Ne 8 à Ne 100.
PCT/CN2013/083149 2013-09-09 2013-09-09 Fil composite élastique filé à âme et tissu tissé le comprenant WO2015032097A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (5)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/CN2013/083149 WO2015032097A1 (fr) 2013-09-09 2013-09-09 Fil composite élastique filé à âme et tissu tissé le comprenant
EP13889765.7A EP2867393B1 (fr) 2013-09-09 2013-09-09 Fil composite élastique filé à âme et tissu tissé le comprenant
US14/415,142 US20160024692A1 (en) 2013-09-09 2013-09-09 Core spun elastic composite yarn and woven fabric thereof
CN201380078086.3A CN105378166B (zh) 2013-09-09 2013-09-09 包芯弹性复合纱及其机织织物
HK15110826.2A HK1210236A1 (en) 2013-09-09 2015-11-03 Core spun elastic composite yarn and woven fabric thereof

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/CN2013/083149 WO2015032097A1 (fr) 2013-09-09 2013-09-09 Fil composite élastique filé à âme et tissu tissé le comprenant

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2015032097A1 true WO2015032097A1 (fr) 2015-03-12

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Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/CN2013/083149 WO2015032097A1 (fr) 2013-09-09 2013-09-09 Fil composite élastique filé à âme et tissu tissé le comprenant

Country Status (5)

Country Link
US (1) US20160024692A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP2867393B1 (fr)
CN (1) CN105378166B (fr)
HK (1) HK1210236A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2015032097A1 (fr)

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WO2016151149A1 (fr) * 2015-03-26 2016-09-29 Sanko Tekstil Isletmeleri San. Ve Tic. A.S. Tissu élastique et procédé de préparation
EP3550060A3 (fr) * 2018-03-19 2020-03-04 Advance Denim Co., Ltd. Fil skeleton et tissu denim

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US20160160406A1 (en) * 2014-05-29 2016-06-09 Arun Agarwal Production of high cotton number or low denier core spun yarn for weaving of reactive fabric and enhanced bedding
CN106917174A (zh) * 2017-03-31 2017-07-04 东华大学 一种赛络菲尔纺纯棉弹力纱及其制备和应用
KR101825928B1 (ko) * 2017-10-11 2018-03-22 박정은 헴프 혼방 단사 제조 방법
IT201800002808A1 (it) * 2018-02-19 2019-08-19 Paolo Benelli Filati elasticizzati perfezionati a base di lino, o canapa o altri materiali, e tessuti elasticizzati prodotti con detti filati
WO2019186574A1 (fr) * 2018-03-31 2019-10-03 Arvind Limited Fil élastique composite à âme unique et son tissu
CN108754717A (zh) * 2018-06-12 2018-11-06 常州天虹纺织有限公司 一种异形纺纱设备及异形纺纱方法
CN108754734A (zh) * 2018-06-12 2018-11-06 徐州天虹时代纺织有限公司 一种弹性纱线、生产工艺及其织物
EP3599303A1 (fr) * 2018-07-27 2020-01-29 Sanko Tekstil Isletmeleri San. Ve Tic. A.S. Fil comprenant un c ur et une gaine
CN109680381B (zh) * 2019-02-18 2021-05-28 黄山市天马纺织有限公司 一种双丝交缠包芯纱生产装置和生产方法
EP3725923A1 (fr) * 2019-04-16 2020-10-21 Calik Denim Tekstil San. Ve Tic. A.S. Fil composite, tissu comprenant le fil composite, procédé de fabrication d'un fil composite et agencement de production d'un fil composite
WO2021030562A2 (fr) * 2019-08-13 2021-02-18 London Luxury Llc Serviette extensible
HK30008630A2 (fr) * 2019-10-16 2020-06-12
CN111455519A (zh) * 2020-04-20 2020-07-28 浙江中鼎纺织股份有限公司 一种半精纺毛绒包芯纱加工工艺
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HK1210236A1 (en) 2016-04-15
CN105378166A (zh) 2016-03-02
EP2867393A4 (fr) 2016-06-01
EP2867393B1 (fr) 2020-12-02
US20160024692A1 (en) 2016-01-28
EP2867393A1 (fr) 2015-05-06
CN105378166B (zh) 2018-09-28

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