EP2867393B1 - Fil composite élastique filé à âme et tissu tissé le comprenant - Google Patents

Fil composite élastique filé à âme et tissu tissé le comprenant Download PDF

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Publication number
EP2867393B1
EP2867393B1 EP13889765.7A EP13889765A EP2867393B1 EP 2867393 B1 EP2867393 B1 EP 2867393B1 EP 13889765 A EP13889765 A EP 13889765A EP 2867393 B1 EP2867393 B1 EP 2867393B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
yarn
staple
composite yarn
spun
elastic
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Active
Application number
EP13889765.7A
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German (de)
English (en)
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EP2867393A4 (fr
EP2867393A1 (fr
Inventor
Wing Kay Leo YUNG
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Texhong Textile Group Ltd
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Texhong Textile Group Ltd
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Publication of EP2867393A4 publication Critical patent/EP2867393A4/fr
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/324—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic using a drawing frame
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/36—Cored or coated yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to core spun elastic composite yarn having a fibrous sheath covering an elastic performance filament and a staple spun yarn.
  • the present core spun yarn is woven into fabrics exhibiting excellent stretch, recovery, hand feel characteristics and improved yarn piecing properties.
  • Conventional stretch fabric is commonly made up of core spun spandex yarn. Warping and/or filling of the conventional core spun spandex yarn result in fabric of high shrinkage and stretchability which requires additional finishing process, such as heat setting. Generally, the conventional stretch fabric is associated with drawbacks, such as limited elongation and growth, and stability of the fabric width are being affected.
  • Elastic bi-component polyester filament has been disclosed in US Pat. No. 3,671,379 and woven stretch fabrics comprising this bi-component polyester filament is disclosed in US Pat. No. 5,922,433 , US Pat. No.7,143,790 and US Pat. No, 7,299,828 .
  • these fabrics woven from bare bi-component polyester filament have a strong synthetic feel and look. Such fabrics are therefore limited to be used in filling and denim.
  • piece dyeing these woven stretch fabrics of bi-component polyester filament must be performed in two separate dyeing processes and elongation of the fabric is inevitably affected.
  • US Pat. No. 7,310,932 discloses fabric made up of core spun yarn comprising bi-component polyester filament covered with staple fibers. Although the fabric disclosed in the '932 patent is associated with improved appearance and hand-feel, grinning effect and limited elongation of the fabric remain.
  • the objective of the present invention is to provide a new core spun elastic composite yarn having excellent elongation, excellent recovery, and better hand feel properties, and to solve the problem of grinning effect and low yarn piecing strength at the piecing position as compared to existing composite yarns.
  • the present composite yarn is suitable for denim, warp and filling.
  • the present invention is a core spun elastic composite yarn comprising at least one elastic performance filament, and at least one staple spun yarn.
  • the elastic performance filament ranges from about 20 denier to about 140 denier (linear density of 2.22 x 10 -6 kg/m to 1.56 x 10 -5 kg/m).
  • the staple spun yarn has an English cotton yarn count (Ne) ranging from about 8 to about 100 (linear density of 7.38 x 10 -5 kg/m to 5.91 x 10 -6 kg/m), preferably from about 20 to 60 (linear density 2.95 x 10 -5 kg/m to 9.87 x 10 -6 kg/m).
  • a fibrous sheath of at least one staple fiber surrounds the at least one elastic performance filament and the at least one staple spun yarn.
  • Said fibrous sheath may be staple fibers such as cotton, polyester, nylon, rayon, wool, acrylic and a combination thereof.
  • the fibrous sheath ranges from English cotton yarn count from about Ne 4 to Ne 60 (linear density of 0.000148 kg/m to 9.87 x 10 -6 kg/m).
  • the fibrous sheath ranges from Ne 7 to Ne 40 (linear density of 8.44 x 10 -5 kg/m to 1.48 x 10 -5 kg/m).
  • Another objective of the present invention is to provide a textile fabric woven from the core spun elastic composite yarn of the present invention.
  • the textile fabric is a denim fabric.
  • the present core spun elastic composite yarn comprises at least one elastic performance filament, at least one staple spun yarn and a fibrous sheath comprised of a mass of staple fibers. Said fibrous sheath surrounds the at least one elastic performance filament and the at least one staple spun yarn independently.
  • the at least one elastic performance filament and the at least one staple spun yarn are first twisted together to form a central thread and the fibrous sheath surrounds said central thread.
  • any commercially available elastic performance filament may be employed in the present composite yarn.
  • the elastic performance filament is made from spandex or lastol polymers.
  • Other elastic performance filaments include, but are not limited to, ethylene/ ⁇ -olefin interpolymers.
  • U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,272,236 , 5,278,272 , 5,322,728 , 5,472,775 , 5,645,542 , 6,140,442 and 6,225,243 disclose various examples of elastic performance filaments applicable for the present invention.
  • the elastic performance filament of the present invention typically has 4.44 ⁇ 10 -6 kg/m - 1.56 ⁇ 10 -5 kg/m (40 to 140 denier) and 1% to 40% of total weight of the composite yarn.
  • the draft of the elastic performance filament typically ranges from 1.5 to 5.0.
  • Document JPH0693531 discloses a process for producing a bulky textile structure having good feeling and clothing comfort and excellent form-stability, water and sweat- absorption and heat-insulation.
  • the structure is a thermoplastic synthetic fiber filament yarn 2 helically wound around filament yarn 1 of a water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol or spun staple fiber yarn of a water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol to obtain covering yarn.
  • a fiber structure formed of multilayer structure yarn produced by using the covering yarn as core yarn and a cellulosic staple fiber as the outer layer is treated in a water bath to dissolve the water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol fiber constituting the core yarn.
  • Document GB949326 discloses an elastic yarn comprising a low twist strand formed of a multiplicity of loosely-arranged staple length fibres, an elastomeric thread and a continuous strand of high strength if compared to the former strand.
  • the low twist strand and the thread are so arranged that when the thread is contracted the strand is loosely associated therewith and the low twist strand, the thread and the continuous strand are arranged so that when the thread is elongated the fibres of the strand are pressed against the thread throughout the length of the strand.
  • the low twist strand may be formed of cotton, nylon, polyester or polyacrylic fibres.
  • the thread may be natural or synthetic rubber e.g.polyurethanes and may be either untwisted or pre-twisted.
  • the continuous strand may be a spun yarn, a continuous mono-filament or a continuous multifilament yarn preferably of low twist e.g.five turns per inch.
  • the staple spun yarn of the present composite yarn may be made of any material known to those skilled in the art.
  • staple spun yarn suitable for the present invention include, but are not limited to, natural, re-generated, synthetic, dyed and non-dyed fibers.
  • the present staple spun yarn may be s-twist or z-twist.
  • the staple spun yarn has an English cotton count ranges 7.38 x 10 -5 kg/m - 5.91 x 10 -6 kg/m (Ne 8 to Ne 100). In one embodiment, the English cotton count is 2.95 x 10 -5 kg/m - 9.87 x 10 -6 kg/m (Ne 20 to Ne 60). In another embodiment, the present staple spun yarn is about 4% to 50% of the total weight of the present composite yarn. In yet another embodiment, the draft of the staple spun yarn is 1.0 to 1.3.
  • the fibrous sheath is formed from a relatively dense mass of randomly oriented entangled spun synthetic staple fibers (e.g. polyamides, polyesters and the like) or spun natural staple fibers. Other examples include, but are not limited to, cotton, viscose rayon, polyester, wool, acrylic or a combination thereof. Particularly, the fibrous sheath may be ring-spun from a roving of staple fibers and forms an incoherent mass of entangled spun staple fibers. Length of the staple fiber is not critical. The linear density of the fibrous sheath ranges from 0.000148 kg/m - 9.87 ⁇ 10 -6 kg/m(Ne 4 to Ne 60). In yet another embodiment, the fibrous sheath ranges from 8.44 ⁇ 10 -5 kg/m - 1.48 ⁇ 10 -5 kg/m( Ne 7 to Ne 40).
  • entangled spun synthetic staple fibers e.g. polyamides, polyesters and the like
  • Other examples include, but are not limited to, cotton, viscose rayon,
  • the present core spun elastic composite yarn may be used as a warp and/ or filling yarn to form woven fabrics exhibiting excellent recovery characteristics.
  • the present composite yarn has a yarn count ranges 0.000148 kg/m - 9.87 ⁇ 10 -6 kg/m( Ne 4 to Ne 60), preferably 8.44 ⁇ 10 -5 kg/m - 1.48 ⁇ 10 -5 kg/m (Ne 7 to Ne 40).
  • the fabric woven from the present composite yarn is a plain weave, twill weave or satin weave pattern. Such fabrics in accordance with the present invention have at least about 20% stretch or greater.
  • fabrics in accordance with the present invention exhibit improved less synthetic hand-feel, improved hairiness, resistant to abrasion as compared to existing composite yarns, such as those having a filament core/ central thread of an elastic filament combining with an inelastic/ elastic filament.
  • Fabrics of the present invention also have reduced or no grinning effect and high piecing strength, thereby efficiency of the weaving process is improved.
  • the present composite yarn is made of 100% cotton or rayon/cotton blend, the common white spot problem occurring in denim fabric is eliminated when the composite yarn is used as warp.
  • 100% cotton or rayon/cotton blend of the present composite yarn also avoids two dyeing processes for piece dyed fabrics.
  • the present composite yarn may be manufactured by any staple fiber spinning process, such as core spinning, ring spinning and the like as readily known by those skilled in the art.
  • Process and apparatus for making the present elastic core spun composite yarn is shown in FIGs. 1 and 2 .
  • the elastic performance filament 21 and staple spun yarn 22 are unwound from the tube 34 & 35 respectively in the direction of 41 & 42 at different speed according to the desired draft.
  • the draft of elastic performance filament is calculated by the ratio of the surface speed of front roller 31 and the tube 34, whereas the draft of staple spun yarn is calculated by the ratio of the surface speed of front roller 31 and the tube 35.
  • the elastic performance filament has a draft which is at least twice or three times the draft of the staple spun yarn.
  • the staple fibers or roving 13 and 14 are unwound from tube 11 and 12 to meet the elastic performance filament 21 and staple spun yarn 22 at the front roller 31.
  • the position of the elastic performance filament on the roving 13 is adjusted by roller 36 and guide 38 whereas the position of staple spun yarn 22 on the roving 14 is adjusted by roller 37 and guide 39.
  • elastic performance filament 21 and staple spun yarn 22 are individually twisted with staple fibers or roving 13 and 14 first, and thereafter twisted together at the front roller 31 forming the present core spun elastic composite yarn.
  • the alignment of the elastic performance filament 21 and staple spun yarn 22 on the roving can effectively reduce the grinning effect.
  • the present core staple spun yarn has reduced grinning effect and improved piecing strength at the piecing position.
  • FIGs. 3 and 4 Another embodiment not according to the present invention of process and core spinning apparatus to make a composite yarn is shown in FIGs. 3 and 4 .
  • the elastic performance filament 21 and that staple spun yarn 22 are unwound from the tubes 34 and 35 respectively in the directions of 41 and 42 at different speed according to the desired draft.
  • Filament 21 and yarn 22 are twisted together by roller 36 first forming a filament strand/ central thread, thereafter staple fibers or roving of 13 and 14 are twisted around the filament strand to form core spun yarn 1 .
  • the position of the elastic performance filament 21 and staple spun yarn 22 on the staple fibers or roving 13 and 14 is adjusted by roller 36 and guides 38 and 39.
  • FIGs. 5 and 6 Another embodiment not according to the present invention of a core spinning apparatus is shown in FIGs. 5 and 6 , wherein the elastic performance filament is twisted with the staple spun yarn to form a central strand 23 beforehand.
  • the apparatus that is useful in twisting the elastic performance filament with the staple spun yarn includes, but is not limited to, a ring spinning machine, an open end spinning machine and a vortex spinning machine.
  • the filamentary strand is unwound from the tube 34 in the direction 41.
  • the draft of central strand is calculated by the ratio of the surface speed of front roller 31 and the tube 34.
  • the staple fibers or roving 13 and 14 are unwound from the tubes 11 and 12 to meet central strand 23 at the front roller 31.
  • the position of the core staple spun yarn on the roving 13 and 14 is adjusted by roller 36 and guides 38 and 39.
  • the grinning effect of the conventional elastic core yarn which comprises an elastic performance filament and inelastic or elastic filament at the piecing position is shown in FIG. 7a .
  • the present invention of elastic core spun composite yarn comprising elastic performance filament and staple spun yarn as the filament core has no grinning effect at the piecing position ( FIG. 7b ).
  • the present elastic core spun composite yarn can be used to provide a woven stretch fabric designed as a filling stretch, warp stretch or bi-stretched by using the elastic core spun composite yarn in a warp, weft or filling and warp directions respectively.
  • Stretch fabric woven from the present composite yarn may have a fabric weight ranging from 135.623 g/m 2 - 542.492 g/m 2 ( 4 oz/square.yard to 16 oz/square.yard (oz/sq.yd)).
  • a denim stretch fabric having a weft yarn 3.69 ⁇ 10 -5 kg/m (Ne 16) in accordance with the present invention includes cotton fibrous sheath and a core polyester staple spun yarn 1.31 ⁇ 10 -5 kg/m (Ne 45) and spandex of 4.44 ⁇ 10 -6 kg/m (40 denier).
  • the denim stretch fabric exhibits good elongation (27.4%) and growth (3.0%).
  • the weft yarn of 3.69 ⁇ 10 -5 kg/m( Ne 16 ) in accordance with the present invention comprises a core strand of 100% cotton spun yarn 1.31 ⁇ 10 -5 kg/m( Ne 45) and spandex of 4.44 ⁇ 10 -6 kg/m (40 denier) covered by 100% cotton fibrous sheath.
  • the fabric has good elongation (34.6%) and growth (5.4%).
  • the fabric exhibits 100% cotton feel and no grinning effect in the fabric and at the piecing position.
  • the present core strand of Example 2 is also useful as warp.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Claims (11)

  1. Fil composite élastique filé à âme (1) comprenant : au moins un filament à performance élastique (21) et au moins un fil filé à fibres discontinues (22) et une gaine fibreuse d'au moins une fibre discontinue (13, 14) qui entoure le au moins un filament à performance élastique et le au moins un fil filé à fibres discontinues, dans lequel le filament à performance élastique a une densité linéaire de 2,22 x 10-6 kg/m à 1,56 x 10-5 kg/m (denier de 20 à 140), le fil filé à fibres discontinues a une densité linéaire de 7,38 x 10-5 kg/m à 5,91 x 10-6 kg/m (numéro de fil de coton anglais (Ne) de 8 à 100) et ladite gaine fibreuse d'au moins une fibre discontinue a une densité linéaire de 0,000148 kg/m à 9,87 x 10-6 (numéro de fil de coton anglais (Ne) de 4 à 60), dans lequel ledit au moins un filament à performance élastique et ledit au moins un fil filé à fibres discontinues se torsadent individuellement avec ladite gaine fibreuse et ledit au moins un filament à performance élastique s'est entouré de la gaine fibreuse et ledit au moins un fil filé à fibres discontinues s'est entouré de la torsade à gaine fibreuse, ensemble, formant le fil composite.
  2. Fil composite selon la revendication 1, dans lequel le fil filé à fibres discontinues (22) a une densité linéaire de 2,95 x 10-5 kg/m à 9,87 x 10-6 kg/m (numéro de fil de coton anglais (Ne) de 20 à 60).
  3. Fil composite selon la revendication 1, dans lequel ladite gaine fibreuse d'au moins une fibre discontinue (13, 14) a une densité linéaire de 8,44 x 10-5 kg/m à 1,48 x 10-5 kg/m (numéro de fil de coton anglais (Ne) de 7 à 40).
  4. Fil composite selon la revendication 1, dans lequel le filament à performance élastique (21) fait 1 pour cent à 40 pour cent du poids total du fil composite et le fil filé à fibres discontinues (22) fait 4 pour cent à 50 pour cent du poids total du fil composite.
  5. Fil composite selon la revendication 1, dans lequel ladite gaine fibreuse comprend des fibres discontinues naturelles ou synthétiques ou une combinaison de celles-ci.
  6. Fil composite selon la revendication 1, dans lequel ledit au moins un fil filé à fibres discontinues est fait de fibres discontinues naturelles, de fibres discontinues régénérées, de fibres discontinues synthétiques ou d'une combinaison de celles-ci.
  7. Fil composite selon la revendication 1, dans lequel l'étirage du filament à performance élastique va de 1,5 à 5,0.
  8. Tissu extensible tissé, comprenant le fil composite selon la revendication 1 en tant que fil de chaîne ou fil de trame ou les deux.
  9. Tissu extensible tissé selon la revendication 8, dans lequel le tissu est à armure toile, un croisé, un satin ou un denim.
  10. Tissu extensible tissé selon la revendication 8, dans lequel le tissu est du denim.
  11. Tissu extensible tissé selon la revendication 8, dans lequel la chaîne ou la trame ou les deux ont une extensibilité de 10 % à 40 %.
EP13889765.7A 2013-09-09 2013-09-09 Fil composite élastique filé à âme et tissu tissé le comprenant Active EP2867393B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/CN2013/083149 WO2015032097A1 (fr) 2013-09-09 2013-09-09 Fil composite élastique filé à âme et tissu tissé le comprenant

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP2867393A1 EP2867393A1 (fr) 2015-05-06
EP2867393A4 EP2867393A4 (fr) 2016-06-01
EP2867393B1 true EP2867393B1 (fr) 2020-12-02

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Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP13889765.7A Active EP2867393B1 (fr) 2013-09-09 2013-09-09 Fil composite élastique filé à âme et tissu tissé le comprenant

Country Status (5)

Country Link
US (1) US20160024692A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP2867393B1 (fr)
CN (1) CN105378166B (fr)
HK (1) HK1210236A1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2015032097A1 (fr)

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US20160160406A1 (en) * 2014-05-29 2016-06-09 Arun Agarwal Production of high cotton number or low denier core spun yarn for weaving of reactive fabric and enhanced bedding
US20160281275A1 (en) 2015-03-26 2016-09-29 Sanko Tekstil Isletmeleri San. Ve Tic. A.S. Elastic fabric and process of preparation
CN106917174A (zh) * 2017-03-31 2017-07-04 东华大学 一种赛络菲尔纺纯棉弹力纱及其制备和应用
KR101825928B1 (ko) * 2017-10-11 2018-03-22 박정은 헴프 혼방 단사 제조 방법
IT201800002808A1 (it) * 2018-02-19 2019-08-19 Paolo Benelli Filati elasticizzati perfezionati a base di lino, o canapa o altri materiali, e tessuti elasticizzati prodotti con detti filati
CN208087828U (zh) * 2018-03-19 2018-11-13 广东前进牛仔布有限公司 一种骨架纱线和牛仔织物
WO2019186574A1 (fr) * 2018-03-31 2019-10-03 Arvind Limited Fil élastique composite à âme unique et son tissu
CN108754717A (zh) * 2018-06-12 2018-11-06 常州天虹纺织有限公司 一种异形纺纱设备及异形纺纱方法
CN108754734A (zh) * 2018-06-12 2018-11-06 徐州天虹时代纺织有限公司 一种弹性纱线、生产工艺及其织物
WO2020021123A1 (fr) * 2018-07-27 2020-01-30 Sanko Tekstil Isletmeleri San. Ve Tic. A.S. Fil comprenant une âme et une gaine
CN109680381B (zh) * 2019-02-18 2021-05-28 黄山市天马纺织有限公司 一种双丝交缠包芯纱生产装置和生产方法
EP3725923A1 (fr) * 2019-04-16 2020-10-21 Calik Denim Tekstil San. Ve Tic. A.S. Fil composite, tissu comprenant le fil composite, procédé de fabrication d'un fil composite et agencement de production d'un fil composite
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CN105378166B (zh) 2018-09-28
HK1210236A1 (en) 2016-04-15
US20160024692A1 (en) 2016-01-28
WO2015032097A1 (fr) 2015-03-12
EP2867393A4 (fr) 2016-06-01
CN105378166A (zh) 2016-03-02
EP2867393A1 (fr) 2015-05-06

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