WO2014203585A1 - シューズアッパーの製造方法、およびシューズアッパー - Google Patents
シューズアッパーの製造方法、およびシューズアッパー Download PDFInfo
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- WO2014203585A1 WO2014203585A1 PCT/JP2014/059174 JP2014059174W WO2014203585A1 WO 2014203585 A1 WO2014203585 A1 WO 2014203585A1 JP 2014059174 W JP2014059174 W JP 2014059174W WO 2014203585 A1 WO2014203585 A1 WO 2014203585A1
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- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- knitted fabric
- shoe upper
- fabric portion
- knitting
- yarn
- Prior art date
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
- A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
- A43B23/0245—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
- A43B23/026—Laminated layers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B1/00—Footwear characterised by the material
- A43B1/02—Footwear characterised by the material made of fibres or fabrics made therefrom
- A43B1/04—Footwear characterised by the material made of fibres or fabrics made therefrom braided, knotted, knitted or crocheted
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
- A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
- A43B23/0205—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the material
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
- A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
- A43B23/0245—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
- A43B23/0255—Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form assembled by gluing or thermo bonding
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A43—FOOTWEAR
- A43B—CHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
- A43B23/00—Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
- A43B23/02—Uppers; Boot legs
- A43B23/04—Uppers made of one piece; Uppers with inserted gussets
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles
- D04B1/102—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
- D04B1/106—Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern at a selvedge, e.g. hems or turned welts
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/04—Heat-responsive characteristics
- D10B2401/041—Heat-responsive characteristics thermoplastic; thermosetting
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
- D10B2403/02—Cross-sectional features
- D10B2403/023—Fabric with at least two, predominantly unlinked, knitted or woven plies interlaced with each other at spaced locations or linked to a common internal co-extensive yarn system
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
- D10B2403/03—Shape features
- D10B2403/033—Three dimensional fabric, e.g. forming or comprising cavities in or protrusions from the basic planar configuration, or deviations from the cylindrical shape as generally imposed by the fabric forming process
- D10B2403/0332—Three dimensional fabric, e.g. forming or comprising cavities in or protrusions from the basic planar configuration, or deviations from the cylindrical shape as generally imposed by the fabric forming process with gussets folding into three dimensional shape, e.g. seat covers
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments
- D10B2501/043—Footwear
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a shoe upper having a double structure and a method for manufacturing the shoe upper.
- Patent Document 1 a technique for knitting a knitted fabric having a double structure can be used.
- socks and gloves having a double structure are knitted.
- the procedure for knitting socks and gloves is almost the same, and the case of knitting socks will be described as an example as follows.
- the inner knitted fabric portion of the double-structured socks is knitted from the toe toward the wearer's mouth, and the outer knitted fabric portion is knitted from the wearer's mouth toward the toe after the inner knitted fabric portion. (However, which of the inner knitted fabric portion and the outer knitted fabric portion is knitted first is arbitrary).
- a sock in which the mouths of the inner knitted fabric portion and the outer knitted fabric portion are connected is knitted.
- the inner knitted fabric portion is folded inside the outer knitted fabric portion to form a double structure.
- the present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, and one of the objects of the present invention is to provide a shoe upper manufacturing method capable of manufacturing a shoe upper having a double structure with high productivity, and a manufacturing method thereof.
- the object is to provide a resulting shoe upper.
- the present invention relates to a shoe upper manufacturing method for manufacturing a shoe upper using a flat knitting machine including at least a pair of front and rear needle beds and a yarn feeder for supplying knitting yarn, and includes the following steps ⁇ to ⁇ . It is characterized by that.
- Step ⁇ A cylindrical inner knitted fabric portion that is the inner portion of the shoe upper and a cylindrical outer knitted fabric portion that is the outer portion of the shoe upper are arranged side by side on the needle bed of the flat knitting machine
- both knitted fabric portions are knitted in a state where the mouth opening corresponding portions of both knitted fabric portions are connected to each other.
- compatible part is a part which comprises the edge part of the wear mouth of a shoe upper, when an inner side knitted fabric part is folded in the inside of an outer side knitted fabric part.
- the inner knitted fabric portion is folded into the outer knitted fabric portion to form a dual structure shoe upper.
- a double-structured shoe upper is fitted into the foot and heat treated.
- the outer knitted fabric portion and the inner knitted fabric portion are bonded to each other by the heat fusion yarn melted during the heat treatment, and the dual structure shoe upper is formed into a shape corresponding to the foot shape.
- the inner knitted fabric portion and the outer knitted fabric portion may be knitted from the heel toward the toe.
- step ⁇ an inner cut extending from the mouth corresponding portion of the inner knitted fabric portion toward the toe and an outer cut extending from the corresponding portion of the outer knitted fabric portion toward the toe
- step ⁇ an inner cut extending from the mouth corresponding portion of the inner knitted fabric portion toward the toe and an outer cut extending from the corresponding portion of the outer knitted fabric portion toward the toe
- a form in which knitting is performed in which at least a part of the inner knitted fabric portion and the outer knitted fabric portion is given a thickness can be exemplified.
- the inner knitted fabric portion is made uniform in thickness
- at least the outer knitted fabric portion is made thicker.
- At least part of the inner knitted fabric portion and at least part of the outer knitted fabric portion are given thickness.
- the portion having the thickness of the inner knitted fabric portion and the portion having the thickness of the outer knitted fabric portion may overlap or overlap in the shoe upper having a double structure. You don't have to.
- the present invention relates to a shoe upper having a mouth.
- the shoe upper according to the present invention includes an outer knitted fabric portion and an inner knitted fabric portion that is overlapped inside the outer knitted fabric portion, and heat fusion in which the outer knitted fabric portion and the inner knitted fabric portion are melted. Bonded with yarn.
- the mouth opening corresponding portion of the outer knitted fabric portion and the mouth opening corresponding portion of the inner knitted fabric portion are connected by a knitting yarn, and the stitch of the mouth corresponding portion of the outer knitted fabric portion, The stitches of the inner knitted fabric portion corresponding to the mouth opening are oriented in the same direction in the length direction of the shoe upper.
- the shoe upper of the present invention can be manufactured with high productivity. This is because the inner knitted fabric portion and the outer knitted fabric portion constituting the shoe upper are knitted side by side on the needle bed. If the inner knitted fabric portion and the outer knitted fabric portion are knitted side by side, both knitted fabric portions can be knitted at the same time, and the knitting section in the knitting width direction becomes longer by arranging both knitted fabric portions side by side, Easy to accelerate the knitting speed.
- the shoe upper knitting method of knitting the inner knitted fabric portion and the outer knitted fabric portion from the heel toward the toe can produce the shoe upper more efficiently than knitting both knitted fabric portions from the toe toward the heel. The reason will be described in detail in the embodiment.
- a slit extending from the mouth of the shoe upper toward the toe can be formed by cutting both the knitted fabric portions.
- a tongue can be formed in the slit.
- the shoe upper can be reinforced by providing a thickness to at least a part of the inner knitted fabric portion and the outer knitted fabric portion.
- the shoe upper may be thickened at the position of the heel where pressure is easily applied, the position of the arch where tension is easily applied, or the position of the mouth corresponding portion as shown in the embodiment.
- the inner knitted fabric portion that is folded into the outer knitted fabric portion can be prevented from loosening and the inner knitted fabric portion can be prevented from wrinkling.
- FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram showing a shoe upper pattern shown in the first embodiment.
- FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram showing a knitting procedure of the shoe upper shown in the first embodiment.
- a two-bed flat knitting machine provided with at least a pair of front and back needle beds and capable of transferring stitches between the front and rear needle beds was used.
- FIG. 1 (A) when the shoe upper 1 is divided from a functional viewpoint, an instep cover portion 3 that covers a part on the instep side of the wearer's foot and a sole that covers a part of the sole of the wearer's foot
- the cover portion 2 can be divided.
- the instep cover portion 3 and the sole cover portion 2 are integrally knitted without sewing.
- the shoe upper 1 can be used as a shoe as it is, or an outer sole (not shown) made of resin or the like can be attached to the outside of the sole cover portion 2 constituting the shoe upper 1 to make a shoe.
- a shoe opening 5 is formed above the instep cover 3.
- the shoe opening 5 includes a mouth 5i through which a wearer inserts a foot, and a slit 5s extending from the mouth 5i toward the toe side.
- the wear mouth edge 35 which is a portion in the instep cover portion 3 in the vicinity of the wear mouth 5i is formed with a thickness greater than other portions.
- an eyelet hole 60 that is a hole through which a shoelace passes is formed at the position of the slit 5s in the instep cover portion 3. If the shoe does not use a shoelace, the eyelet hole 60 is not necessary.
- the end 51 of the slit 5s is located near the toe of the shoe upper 1, and a root of a tongue (not shown) can be connected to the end 51. Of course, it is good also as the shoe upper 1 without the slit 5s.
- the sole cover portion 2 is a portion that becomes a shoe sole when the shoe upper 1 is used as a shoe as it is. If the outer sole is attached to the outside of the sole cover portion 2, the sole cover portion 2 functions as an insole for shoes. In any form, the sole cover portion 2 covers the entire sole of the wearer.
- the outer knitted fabric portion 11 and the inner knitted fabric portion 19 superimposed on the inside Can be divided into
- the outer knitted fabric portion 11 constitutes the outer portion of the instep cover portion 3 and the sole cover portion 2 in FIG. 1A
- the inner knitted fabric portion 19 is the inner portion of the instep cover portion 3 and the sole cover portion 2.
- the outer knitted fabric portion 11 and the inner knitted fabric portion 19 are bonded by a melted heat-sealing yarn.
- connection boundary between the outer knitted fabric portion 11 and the inner knitted fabric portion 19 is in a position (corresponding to the worn mouth edge portion 35 in FIG. 1A) indicated by a one-dot chain line in the vicinity of the wearing mouth 5i.
- the garment opening corresponding part 110 of the outer knitted fabric part 11 and the garment opening corresponding part 190 of the inner knitted fabric part 19 are connected by a knitting yarn across the connection boundary indicated by the one-dot chain line.
- the stitches of the mouth-corresponding portion 110 and the stitches of the mouth-corresponding portion 190 are oriented in the same direction in the length direction of the shoe upper 1, that is, the toe direction in this embodiment. Note that the stitches of the shoe upper 1 of the present embodiment knitted according to the knitting process described later are generally directed to the toe side.
- the shoe upper 1 is generally manufactured by the following three steps. [Step ⁇ ] The outer knitted fabric portion 11 and the inner knitted fabric portion 19 are knitted. [Step ⁇ ]... The inner knitted fabric portion 19 is folded into the outer knitted fabric portion 11 to form the dual shoe upper 1. [Step ⁇ ] The double-structured shoe upper 1 is heat-treated.
- Step ⁇ In the process ⁇ , as shown in the pattern of FIG. 2, when the shoe upper 1 is knitted, the outer knitted fabric portion 11 and the inner knitted fabric portion 19 are knitted side by side.
- FIG. 2 shows the left side portions of the outer knitted fabric portion 11 and the inner knitted fabric portion 19 constituting the shoe upper 1, and the right side portions of the knitted fabric portions 11 and 19 are located at the back of the page of FIG. You can think of it being placed on the side.
- the left side portion and the right side portion of each knitted fabric portion 11 (19) are connected at a position indicated by hatching in the drawing, and the outer knitted fabric portion 11 and the inner knitted fabric portion 19 are indicated by arrows in the left-right direction.
- the shoe upper 1 is knitted in the regions I to V for convenience (there is no seam between the regions I to V).
- Region I corresponds to the heel portion of the shoe upper 1
- region II corresponds to the portion of the mouth 5i
- region III corresponds to the portion from the mouth 5i to the middle portion of the slit 5s
- region IV is a region corresponding to a portion from the middle portion to the end portion of the slit 5s
- a region V is a region corresponding to a toe portion (see also FIG. 1).
- the inner knitted fabric portion 19 is knitted smaller than the outer knitted fabric portion 11 through the regions I to V.
- the set-up portion 11s of the outer knitted fabric portion 11 and the set-up portion 19s of the inner knitted fabric portion 19 are knitted.
- the outer knitted fabric portion 11 and the inner knitted fabric portion 19 are knitted with the same fused knitting yarn.
- the fusion knitting yarn is a knitting yarn including a heat fusion yarn.
- the outer knitted fabric portion 11 and the inner knitted fabric portion 19 may be knitted with different knitting yarns.
- the inner knitted fabric portion 19 is knitted with a fusion knitting yarn including a heat fusion yarn
- the outer knitted fabric portion 11 is knitted with a normal knitting yarn not including a heat fusion yarn.
- the fusion knitting yarn and the normal knitting yarn may be connected by intarsia knitting or the like at the connection boundary between the knitted fabric portions 11 and 19 indicated by the one-dot chain line.
- the region I of the outer knitted fabric portion 11 and the inner knitted fabric portion 19 is knitted based on the set-up portions 11s and 19s.
- knitting to gradually increase the number of stitches to be knit in the knitting width direction is performed.
- portions indicated by arrows are joined in the wale direction.
- knitting is performed to gradually reduce the number of stitches to be knitted in the knitting width direction.
- the number of times of knitting to reduce and increase the number of stitches to be knitted is not particularly limited. By increasing the number of times, the shape of the heel of the shoe upper 1 can be made into a smooth three-dimensional shape.
- the region II of both knitted fabric portions 11 and 19 is knitted.
- the inside of the knitting width direction is reduced (indicated by the broken line arrow in the drawing), and then the inside of the knitting width direction is reduced (the broken line in the drawing).
- Increase the number of stitches see arrow.
- the shape of the wear mouth edge 35 of the shoe upper 1 shown in FIG. 1 (A) is formed.
- the wearing edge 35 is curved below the shoe upper 1 so as to avoid the wearer's wrinkles.
- the region III of both knitted fabric portions 11, 19 is knitted. Also in the region III, the inner reduction is performed at a position inside the end in the knitting width direction (see the broken line arrow in the figure), and the part up to the middle part of the slit 5s of the shoe upper 1 shown in FIG. 1 is knitted.
- the mouth corresponding portions 110 and 190 surrounded by the dotted lines in the regions II and III have a thickness.
- the wearing edge portion 35 (see FIG. 1A) can be reinforced by providing the wearing mouth corresponding portions 110 and 190 with a thickness.
- a knitting to give a thickness for example, a knitting for one course is performed in a plurality of times with a miss knitting. Specifically, after the first knitting that knits odd-numbered stitches within the range of the mouth-corresponding portions 110 and 190 and misses the even-numbered stitches, the range of the mouth-corresponding portions 110 and 190 is performed. A second knitting is performed in which the even-numbered stitches are knit and the odd-numbered stitches are missed.
- the two stitch rows overlap in the thickness direction, and it is possible to increase the thickness of the wear-corresponding portions 110, 190.
- the region IV of both knitted fabric portions 11 and 19 is knitted.
- the outer knitted fabric portion 11 and the inner knitted fabric portion 19 are knitted in a separated state.
- the knitted fabric portions 11 and 19 are knitted using separate yarn feeders. Specifically, an outer cut 11c extending from the mouth corresponding part 110 of the outer knitted fabric part 11 toward the toe is formed, and an inner cut 19c extending from the wear corresponding part 190 of the inner knitted fabric part 19 toward the toe. Form.
- the left side portion of the outer knitted fabric portion 11 and the right side portion on the back side of the paper surface are not connected, and the outer knitted fabric portion 11 in the region IV is knitted in a C-shape with the left side of the paper surface turned back.
- the left side portion of the inner knitted fabric portion 19 and the right side portion on the back side of the paper surface are not connected at the position of the inner notch 19c, and the inner knitted fabric portion 19 in the region IV has a C-shape with the right side of the paper surface turned back.
- the internal reduction performed in the region IV is performed in order to form the cuts 11c and 19c that are the end portions of the slit 5s. Therefore, when the slit 5s is not formed in the shoe upper 1, in the region IV, the outer knitted fabric portion 11 and the inner knitted fabric portion 19 are respectively formed using separate yarn feeders without forming the cuts 11c and 19c. Organize into a shape.
- the region V of both knitted fabric portions 11 and 19 is knitted.
- set-up portions 11cs and 19cs are formed at the positions of the cuts 11c and 19c.
- These set-up portions 11cs and 19cs are portions that become the end portions 51 of the slit 5s in FIG.
- the regions V of both knitted fabric portions 11 and 19 are knitted individually.
- the inside of the toe of the shoe upper 1 is tapered to form a tapered shape while performing tubular knitting.
- the knitting end portions 11e and 19e are formed by treating the ends of the knitted fabric portions 11 and 19 in the wale direction, and the knitting of the outer knitted fabric portion 11 and the inner knitted fabric portion 19 is finished.
- the completed outer knitted fabric portion 11 and inner knitted fabric portion 19 are connected in a cylindrical shape. Further, the knitted fabric portions 11 and 19 are locally bulged or dented as much as the knitting width is changed by increasing or decreasing the inside. This bulge and dent correspond to the three-dimensional shape of the shoe upper 1.
- the outer knitted fabric portion 11 and the inner knitted fabric portion 19 can be knitted at a time, so that both knitted fabric portions 11 and 19 can be completed in a short time. Since the knitting section in the knitting width direction becomes longer by the amount of the knitted fabric portions 11 and 19 arranged side by side, the knitting speed can be easily accelerated. As a result, both knitted fabric portions 11 and 19 can be completed in a short time. it can.
- the shoe upper 1 can be knitted efficiently.
- the knitting width gradually decreases as a whole, although the knitting width increases or decreases along the way. Therefore, when knitting from the heel to the toe, the number of times of knitting to increase the stitches can be reduced. Since the knitting to increase the stitch takes more time than the knitting to reduce the stitch, the shoe upper 1 can be knitted efficiently if the number of knitting to increase the stitch can be reduced.
- the toe has a tapered shape, so that it is possible to reduce the time-consuming process of the knitting end part (bind off process). This also contributes to efficient knitting of the shoe upper 1.
- Step ⁇ When knitting of the outer knitted fabric portion 11 and the inner knitted fabric portion 19 according to the knitting procedure shown in FIG. 3 is finished, the inner knitted fabric portion 19 is folded inside the outer knitted fabric portion 11 to form the dual structure shoe upper 1. To do. At this time, since the outer knitted fabric portion 11 and the inner knitted fabric portion 19 are connected at the positions of the wear-corresponding portions 110 and 190, the inner knitted fabric portion 19 can be easily aligned with the outer knitted fabric portion 11. The
- a double-structured shoe upper 1 is fitted into the foot and heat treated. During the heat treatment, the heat-sealed yarn of the fused knitting yarn is melted, and the outer knitted fabric portion 11 and the inner knitted fabric portion 19 are bonded to each other by the melted heat-fused yarn, and the double-structured shoe upper 1 is formed. Molded into a shape corresponding to the foot shape.
- the dual structure shoe upper 1 can be manufactured with high productivity.
- Embodiment 2 In Embodiment 1, the shoe upper 1 was knitted from the heel to the toe of the shoe upper 1 to produce the shoe upper 1. In contrast, the shoe upper 1 can be knitted from the toe toward the heel. In the second embodiment, a procedure for knitting from the toe toward the heel will be briefly described with reference to FIG.
- the outer knitted fabric portion 11 is knitted at a position indicated by reference numeral 11e
- the inner knitted fabric portion 19 is knitted at a position indicated by reference numeral 19e.
- the knitted fabric portions 11 and 19 are knitted in the order of the region V ⁇ the region IV ⁇ the region III ⁇ the region II ⁇ the region I, and finally the outer knitted fabric portion 11 and the inner knitted fabric portion at positions indicated by reference numerals 11s and 19s. I finished 19th.
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Materials Engineering (AREA)
- Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
Abstract
Description
[工程α]…シューズアッパーの内側部分となる筒状の内側編地部と、シューズアッパーの外側部分となる筒状の外側編地部と、が横編機の針床上で左右に並んだ状態で、かつ両編地部の履き口対応部同士が繋がった状態で、両編地部を編成する。その際、内側編地部と外側編地部の少なくとも一方は、熱融着糸を含む融着編糸を用いて編成する。なお、履き口対応部は、内側編地部を外側編地部の内部に折り込んだときに、シューズアッパーの履き口の縁部を構成する部分である。
[工程β]…内側編地部を外側編地部の内部に折り込んで、二重構造のシューズアッパーを形成する。
[工程γ]…二重構造のシューズアッパーを足型に嵌めて熱処理する。この工程γでは、熱処理時に溶融した熱融着糸によって外側編地部と内側編地部とを接着させ、かつ二重構造のシューズアッパーを足型に対応した形状に成形する。
≪シューズアッパー≫
実施形態1では、二重構造を有するシューズアッパーを説明する。図1(A)に示すように、シューズアッパー1を機能的な観点で区分すると、着用者の足の甲側の部分を覆うインステップカバー部3と、着用者の足裏の部分を覆うソールカバー部2と、に分けることができる。インステップカバー部3とソールカバー部2とは、無縫製で一体に編成されている。このシューズアッパー1をそのままシューズとして利用することもできるし、シューズアッパー1を構成するソールカバー部2の外側に樹脂などでできたアウターソール(図示せず)を取り付けて、シューズとしても構わない。
上記シューズアッパー1は、概略的に次の三つの工程によって製造される。
[工程α]…外側編地部11と内側編地部19とを編成する。
[工程β]…内側編地部19を外側編地部11の内部に折り込んで、二重構造のシューズアッパー1を形成する。
[工程γ]…二重構造のシューズアッパー1を熱処理する。
工程αでは、図2の型紙に示すように、シューズアッパー1を編成する際、外側編地部11と内側編地部19を左右に並べた状態で編成する。図2には、シューズアッパー1を構成する外側編地部11と内側編地部19の各左側部分が示されており、両編地部11,19の各右側部分は、図2の紙面奥側に配置されていると考えて良い。各編地部11(19)の左側部分と右側部分とは、図中のハッチングで示す位置で繋がった状態とし、また外側編地部11と内側編地部19とは、左右方向の矢印で示す位置(履き口対応部110,190の位置、および鳩目孔60が形成されるスリット5sの縁となる位置)で繋がった状態とする。つまり、工程αでは、両編地部11,19からなる一つの筒状編地を編成する。なお、言うまでもないが、足の形状は左右非対称であるため、足の形状に合わせてシューズアッパー1の右側部分と左側部分の編幅などを変えることが好ましい。
図3に示す編成手順に従う外側編地部11と内側編地部19を編成が終了したら、外側編地部11の内部に内側編地部19を折り込んで、二重構造のシューズアッパー1を形成する。その際、外側編地部11と内側編地部19とが、履き口対応部110,190の位置で繋がっているため、外側編地部11に対する内側編地部19の位置合わせを容易に行なえる。
二重構造のシューズアッパー1を足型に嵌めて熱処理する。熱処理の際、融着編糸の熱融着糸が溶融し、溶融した熱融着糸によって、外側編地部11と内側編地部19とが接着され、かつ二重構造のシューズアッパー1が足型に対応した形状に成形される。
実施形態1では、シューズアッパー1の踵から爪先に向かって編成し、シューズアッパー1を作製した。これに対して、シューズアッパー1の爪先から踵に向かって編成することもできる。実施形態2では、図3を参照して爪先から踵に向かって編成する手順を簡単に説明する。
2 ソールカバー部
3 インステップカバー部 35 履き口縁部
5 シューズ開口部 5i 履き口 5s スリット 51 端部
60 鳩目孔
11 外側編地部
11s 編出し部 11e 編終り部 110 履き口対応部
11c 外側切込み 11cs 編出し部
19 内側編地部
19s 編出し部 19e 編終り部 190 履き口対応部
19c 内側切込み 19cs 編出し部
Claims (5)
- 少なくとも前後一対の針床と編糸を給糸する給糸口とを備える横編機を用いてシューズアッパーを製造するシューズアッパーの製造方法において、
シューズアッパーの内側部分となる筒状の内側編地部と、シューズアッパーの外側部分となる筒状の外側編地部と、が前記針床上で左右に並んだ状態で、かつ両編地部の履き口対応部同士が繋がった状態で、両編地部を編成する工程αと、
前記内側編地部を前記外側編地部の内部に折り込んで、二重構造のシューズアッパーを形成する工程βと、
前記二重構造のシューズアッパーを足型に嵌めて熱処理する工程γと、を備え、
前記工程αにおいて熱融着糸を含む融着編糸を用いて前記内側編地部と前記外側編地部の少なくとも一方を編成することで、前記工程γの前記熱処理時に溶融した前記熱融着糸によって前記外側編地部と前記内側編地部とを接着させ、かつ前記二重構造のシューズアッパーを前記足型に対応した形状に成形することを特徴とするシューズアッパーの製造方法。 - 前記工程αにおいて、前記内側編地部と前記外側編地部とを踵から爪先に向かって編成することを特徴とする請求項1に記載のシューズアッパーの製造方法。
- 前記工程αにおいて、前記内側編地部の履き口対応部から爪先に向かって延びる内側切込みと、前記外側編地部の履き口対応部から爪先に向かって延びる外側切込みと、を形成することを特徴とする請求項1または2に記載のシューズアッパーの製造方法。
- 前記内側編地部と前記外側編地部の少なくとも一部に厚みを持たせる編成を行なうことを特徴とする請求項1~3のいずれか一項に記載のシューズアッパーの製造方法。
- 履き口を有するシューズアッパーにおいて、
外側編地部と、その外側編地部の内部に重ねられた内側編地部と、を備え、
前記外側編地部と前記内側編地部とが溶融した熱融着糸によって接着されており、
前記外側編地部の履き口対応部と前記内側編地部の履き口対応部とが編糸で繋がり、
かつ前記外側編地部の履き口対応部の編目と前記内側編地部の履き口対応部の編目とがシューズアッパーの長さ方向における同じ方向に向いていることを特徴とするシューズアッパー。
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KR101824539B1 (ko) | 2018-02-01 |
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