WO2012172622A1 - Produit cosmétique en émulsion de type eau dans l'huile solide - Google Patents

Produit cosmétique en émulsion de type eau dans l'huile solide Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012172622A1
WO2012172622A1 PCT/JP2011/063452 JP2011063452W WO2012172622A1 WO 2012172622 A1 WO2012172622 A1 WO 2012172622A1 JP 2011063452 W JP2011063452 W JP 2011063452W WO 2012172622 A1 WO2012172622 A1 WO 2012172622A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
oil
cosmetic
water
solid
dimethicone
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/JP2011/063452
Other languages
English (en)
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
木下栄子
八木克彦
Original Assignee
株式会社 資生堂
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by 株式会社 資生堂 filed Critical 株式会社 資生堂
Priority to PCT/JP2011/063452 priority Critical patent/WO2012172622A1/fr
Publication of WO2012172622A1 publication Critical patent/WO2012172622A1/fr

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4993—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/42—Colour properties
    • A61K2800/43—Pigments; Dyes

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic. More specifically, it contains a specific volatile linear silicone oil, a solid wax and / or oil gelling agent, water, and a surfactant, and is stable and usable for spreading and fitting.
  • the present invention also relates to a solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic having excellent color developability and good cosmetic durability.
  • solid cosmetics Commonly used as a base type of solid cosmetics, solid oily type obtained by solidifying oil, solid press type obtained by pressing powder or a mixture of powder and oil, oily component and oily solidifying agent, water, There are water-in-oil emulsification types obtained from powders and lipophilic surfactants, which are properly used depending on the purpose and method of use of the cosmetic.
  • solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetics especially cosmetics containing volatile silicone oils, can be blended with various moisturizers and chemicals as water phase components, providing a refreshing sensation when applied and repelling silicone oil. It has excellent properties such as water resistance of the coating film due to water and suppression of stickiness due to volatilization.
  • Patent Document 3 a hydrophobized powder as a powder
  • Patent Document 4 A part of the powder component is made spherical powder to improve the smoothness of spreading at the time of application, and the non-uniformity due to the aggregation of the powder has been developed.
  • Patent Documents 1 to 4 have been used particularly as face makeup cosmetics such as foundations and blushers because of the novel feeling of refreshing feeling and excellent feeling of use.
  • face makeup cosmetics such as foundations and blushers
  • composition of a water-in-oil emulsion containing a volatile oil (silicone oil, etc.), wax and powder is applied to eye shadow (see Non-Patent Document 1), but an eye color that requires various colors.
  • color development and color uniformity are not sufficient. There was a need for further improvement.
  • the present invention has been made in view of such problems of the prior art, and has excellent color development suitable for use as an eye makeup cosmetic, and is a solid oil that is stable and has a good feeling of use and a long-lasting makeup.
  • An object is to provide a water-in-water emulsified cosmetic.
  • the inventors have formulated specific volatile linear dimethyl silicone at a specific ratio, so that it has a feeling of use and a long-lasting feeling during application and fit.
  • a solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic with good color development, excellent color development and no color unevenness can be obtained, and the present invention has been completed. That is, the present invention contains a volatile linear dimethyl silicone tetramer, a volatile linear dimethyl silicone pentamer, a solid wax and / or an oil gelling agent, water, a lipophilic surfactant and a powder.
  • solid water-in-oil emulsified makeup having excellent color developability, good spreading at the time of application, no color unevenness (smoothness), good fit, long lasting makeup, and stability.
  • the cosmetics are particularly suitable for eye makeup cosmetics such as eye colors and eye shadows.
  • the cosmetic according to the present invention is a solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic.
  • solid or “solid” used in the present specification means that which is in a solid state without fluidity in the temperature range (0 ° C. to 50 ° C.) usually used as a cosmetic.
  • the dimethicone tetramer and dimethicone pentamer used in the present invention may be commercially available products based on them.
  • Examples of the dimethicone tetramer include KF-96L-1.5CS manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.
  • Examples include SH200 Fluid 1.5CS manufactured by Toray Dow Corning Co., Ltd., which has a viscosity at 25 ° C. of 1.5 mm 2 / s, a specific gravity of 0.85, and a refractive index of 1.39.
  • Examples of the dimethicone pentamer include KF-96L-2CS manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd. and SH200 Fluid 2CS manufactured by Toray Dow Corning Co., Ltd., which have a viscosity at 25 ° C. of 2 mm 2 / s and a specific gravity of 0.87. It has a refractive index of 1.39.
  • the cosmetic of the present invention is characterized in that the dimethicone tetramer and dimethicone pentamer are combined in combination, and the ratio of the amounts is in a specific range. That is, the ratio of the amount of dimethicone tetramer to the amount of dimethicone pentamer (dimethicone tetramer / dimethicone pentamer) is greater than 1, preferably greater than 2, more preferably greater than 3. Most preferably greater than 4.
  • the upper limit of the value of this ratio is not particularly limited, but is usually 30 or less, preferably 20 or less, more preferably about 15 or less.
  • the blending amount of the silicone oil containing dimethicone tetramer and dimethicone pentamer is preferably 30 to 97% by mass in the oil phase and 5 to 85% by mass in the total cosmetic.
  • the blending amount of each of the dimethicone tetramer and dimethicone pentamer can be appropriately set within a range satisfying the blending ratio.
  • the dimethicone tetramer is in the range of 0.1 to 25% by mass, preferably 5 to 24% by mass, more preferably 10 to 23% by mass
  • the blending amount of the dimethicone pentamer is 0.1 to 13% by mass, It is preferably set in the range of 1 to 10% by mass, more preferably 2 to 8% by mass.
  • Solid waxes to be blended in the cosmetics of the present invention may be those commonly used in cosmetics, petroleum waxes such as paraffin wax and microcrystalline wax, mineral waxes such as ozokerite and ceresin, natural waxes such as carnauba wax and candelilla wax.
  • One or a mixture of two or more types of waxes having a melting point of 50 ° C. or more can be exemplified, but in particular, a mixture of linear and / or branched hydrocarbons having a carbon number of 25 to 52 of the linear hydrocarbons. Those containing as a main component are preferred.
  • the type of wax used is selected according to the type of oil used, but wax esters such as carnauba wax and candelilla wax are difficult to obtain when used alone, and are linear and / or branched carbonized. It is preferable to mix with a hydrogen wax. In addition, since commercially available hydrocarbon solid wax is obtained as a mixture, it has a distribution in carbon number and contains isoparaffin and naphthene, but even in that case, the main component is one having 25 to 52 carbon atoms. If it is.
  • oil gelling agent used in the present invention condensates of benzaldehydes such as dibenzylidene sorbitol, tribenzylidene sorbitol, dibenzylidene xylitol, paramethoxybenzylidene sorbitol and pentavalent or higher alcohols, calcium stearate, calcium palmitate, Metal soap such as lithium 2-ethylhexanoate, aluminum 12-hydroxystearate, lauroylglutamic acid dibutylamide, lauroylglutamic acid stearylamide, dicaproyllysine laurylamine salt, dicaproyllysine lauryl ester, dicaproyllysine lauroylphenylalanine lauryl Saturated starch fat with an ester group substitution degree of 30% or more, such as amide, N-acyl amino acid amides, derivatives such as amides and amine salts Etc. consisting of acid hydrolysates of the ester dex
  • solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention one or more of the above-described solid wax and / or oil gelling agent is appropriately selected and blended.
  • the blending amount of the solid wax and / or oil gelling agent can be adjusted according to the desired hardness, but the ratio of oil: solid wax and / or oil gelling agent is preferably 20: 1 to 3: 1, 2 to 20% by mass in the total cosmetic is preferable, and 5 to 20% by mass is more preferable.
  • the amount of water blended in the cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 5% by mass or more, more preferably 10% by mass or more based on the total cosmetics.
  • the amount of water blended in the cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 5% by mass or more, more preferably 10% by mass or more based on the total cosmetics.
  • a very large refreshing feeling can be obtained during use.
  • the lipophilic surfactant used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but those having an HLB value of 8 or less are preferred.
  • Examples include glyceryl acid, glyceryl sesquioleate, diglyceryl diisostearate, diglyceryl dioleate, diglycerin monoisostearyl ether, and diglycerin diisostearyl ether.
  • a polyoxyalkylene-modified organopolysiloxane containing 5 to 40% polyoxyalkylene groups in the molecule and having a molecular weight of 1000 or more can also be used.
  • the blending amount of the lipophilic surfactant in the cosmetic of the present invention is appropriately selected according to the amount of the aqueous phase to be emulsified, but is usually preferably 0.2 to 10% by mass in the total cosmetic. .
  • a powder usually used in cosmetics is used.
  • pearl pigments such as titanium coated mica.
  • Organic powders include polyester, polyethylene, polystyrene, methyl methacrylate resin, cellulose, 12 nylon, 6 nylon, styrene and acrylic acid copolymer, polypropylene, vinyl chloride, tetrafluoroethylene, boron nitride, fish scale foil, red 3 No. 4, Red No. 4, Red No. 203 and the like tar-type pigments, natural pigments lakes, and composite powders composed of inorganic powders and organic powders.
  • the above-mentioned powder treated with a hydrophobizing agent is particularly preferable.
  • the hydrophobizing treatment By performing the hydrophobizing treatment, color separation is suppressed, and makeup durability such as water resistance, sweat resistance and sebum resistance can be improved.
  • the hydrophobizing agent include organic compounds such as dextrin fatty acid esters, metal soaps, silicone compounds, and dibenzylidene sorbitol.
  • the cosmetic of the present invention may contain one or more selected from the above powders.
  • the blending amount of the powder is preferably 5 to 50% by mass in the total amount of the cosmetic. If the blending amount is less than 5% by mass, the color development is not sufficient and it may be difficult to feel the makeup effect, and if it exceeds 50% by mass, it is difficult to obtain a light weight.
  • the solid water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention can be blended with other optional components usually used in cosmetics as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired.
  • moisturizers such as polyhydric alcohols, mucopolysaccharides, organic acids and organic salts (amino acids, amino acid salts, oxyacid salts, etc.) as water phase components, petrolatum, lanolin, silicon wax, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols as oil phase components
  • Surface activity such as solid and semi-solid oil such as squalane, liquid paraffin, ester oil, triglyceride, volatile hydrocarbon oil, fluorocarbon and other fluid oil, cationic surfactant, anionic surfactant, nonionic surfactant , Agents such as vitamin E, vitamin E acetate, astringents, antioxidants, preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters such as dibasic sodium phosphate, clay minerals, thickeners, UV absorbers, etc. it can.
  • a component that can be recognized in order to suppress volatilization of water is preferable to add.
  • said arbitrary component is an illustration and is not limited to these.
  • the solid water-in-oil cosmetic of the present invention has good stretchability when applied, has a good fit, and has excellent color development. Therefore, it is particularly suitable for use as makeup cosmetics, especially eye makeup cosmetics such as eye color and eye shadow.
  • Evaluation criteria A: Evaluation value (average value) 4.0 or more and 5.0 points or less ⁇ : Evaluation value (average value) 3.0 or more and less than 4.0 points ⁇ : Evaluation value (average value) 2.0 or more and 3.0 points Less than ⁇ : Evaluation value (average value) 1.0 or more and less than 2.0 points
  • the dispersion state was evaluated as follows. When each cosmetic was applied, the color unevenness due to powder aggregation (straight spot) was observed as ⁇ , and the color unevenness was not observed as uniform. Further, the viscosity (measured with a B-type viscometer at 80 to 85 ° C.) and hardness (rheometer hardness meter, 5.6 ⁇ , measured at 37 ° C.) of each cosmetic were measured.
  • Comparative Example 1 in which the dimethicone tetramer and pentamer were replaced with volatile cyclic silicones was particularly inferior to “long” and “long-lasting makeup” and “fit”. Also, “color development” does not reach the cosmetics of the present invention (Example 1). Further, in Comparative Examples 2 and 3 corresponding to the cosmetics reproducing the composition described in Non-Patent Document 1, the total formulation of the volatile oil is the same as in Example 1, but the hardness of the entire cosmetics is It was low and inferior to the cosmetics of the present invention (Example 1) in all measured items.
  • Comparative Example 4 which contains dimethicone tetramer but does not contain dimethicone pentamer is not particularly good in “nobit”, and conversely contains dimethicone pentamer but does not contain dimethicone tetramer.
  • Example 7 shows that “fitness”, “color development”, and “makeup lasting” are inferior.
  • Comparative Examples 5 and 6 in which the blending amount of dimethicone pentamer is 1 or less with respect to the blending amount of dimethicone tetramer have characteristics other than the dispersion state from the cosmetics of the present invention (Examples 1 and 2). In particular, “fitness” and “color development” were insufficient.
  • the oil phase component is heated and dissolved at 85 ° C., the powder component mixed with a blender is added and stirred and mixed, and the water phase component heated and dissolved separately at 85 ° C. is added with stirring and emulsified and dispersed with a homomixer.
  • the obtained water-in-oil emulsion was filled in a container and cooled.

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne un produit cosmétique en émulsion de type eau dans l'huile solide, présentant d'excellentes propriétés de développement chromogène, destiné à être utilisé dans un produit cosmétique de maquillage des yeux. Ce produit présente également une bonne stabilité, confère une sensation agréable à l'application et produit un effet longue tenue après application. L'invention concerne plus particulièrement un produit cosmétique en émulsion de type eau dans l'huile solide, contenant un tétramère de diméthylsilicone linéaire volatil, un pentamère de diméthylsilicone linéaire volatil, une cire solide et/ou un agent de gélification d'huile, de l'eau, un tensioactif lipophile et une poudre. Le produit cosmétique selon l'invention se caractérise en ce que le rapport teneur en tétramère de diméthylsilicone linéaire - teneur en pentamère de diméthylsilicone linéaire est supérieur à 1.
PCT/JP2011/063452 2011-06-13 2011-06-13 Produit cosmétique en émulsion de type eau dans l'huile solide WO2012172622A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/JP2011/063452 WO2012172622A1 (fr) 2011-06-13 2011-06-13 Produit cosmétique en émulsion de type eau dans l'huile solide

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/JP2011/063452 WO2012172622A1 (fr) 2011-06-13 2011-06-13 Produit cosmétique en émulsion de type eau dans l'huile solide

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WO2012172622A1 true WO2012172622A1 (fr) 2012-12-20

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Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2002212033A (ja) * 2001-01-15 2002-07-31 Nonogawa Shoji Kk 乳化型メイクアップ化粧料
JP2002363029A (ja) * 2001-05-31 2002-12-18 Kose Corp 油中水型乳化化粧料
JP2003063919A (ja) * 2001-08-23 2003-03-05 Nippon Shikizai Inc 固形状油中水系化粧料
JP2006522066A (ja) * 2003-04-04 2006-09-28 ロレアル 揮発性脂肪相を含む化粧品組成物
JP2009137900A (ja) * 2007-12-07 2009-06-25 Shiseido Co Ltd 油中水型固形乳化化粧料及びその製造方法

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2002212033A (ja) * 2001-01-15 2002-07-31 Nonogawa Shoji Kk 乳化型メイクアップ化粧料
JP2002363029A (ja) * 2001-05-31 2002-12-18 Kose Corp 油中水型乳化化粧料
JP2003063919A (ja) * 2001-08-23 2003-03-05 Nippon Shikizai Inc 固形状油中水系化粧料
JP2006522066A (ja) * 2003-04-04 2006-09-28 ロレアル 揮発性脂肪相を含む化粧品組成物
JP2009137900A (ja) * 2007-12-07 2009-06-25 Shiseido Co Ltd 油中水型固形乳化化粧料及びその製造方法

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