TWI510268B - 預防肌膚老化之美容組成物 - Google Patents
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Description
本案揭示內容係關於一種預防紅外線(IR)或其它類似射線造成肌膚老化的美容組成物。
普遍知道波長比可見光更短的紫外線(UV)可能對人類肌膚造成不良影響。因此,已有多項研究著眼於研發出UV阻擋產品。
然而,至今仍未清楚瞭解紅外線(IR)對肌膚的影響。陽光中有80%屬紅外線,而相較於紫外線或可見光而言,紅外線較不易被大氣中的微粒所折射或散射,並且紅外線會穿透空氣直達地表且同時不會被空氣中的氧分子或氮分子所攔阻。
近來,已證明具有促進血液循環及發熱(hyperthermia)效果的紅外線可能對人類肌膚造成不良影響。特別是已證實紅外線可能刺激肌膚形成皺紋。紅外線造成肌膚形成皺紋的機制與紫外線造成肌膚形成皺紋的機制不同。因此,當肌膚暴露於陽光下時,在肌膚上使用已知的紫外線阻擋劑可能無法預防因紅外線所造成的肌膚老化。
因此,需要研發一種用以阻擋廣波長範圍之射線的配方,該配方能阻擋紅外線及紫外線。
本案揭示內容係有關提供一種塗於肌膚上以預防諸如紅外線(IR)等射線所造成之老化的美容組成物。
在一總括態樣中提供一種美容組成物,該組成物包含選自於由胺類、醯胺類及多元醇類所組成之群組中的至少一種成分以作為活性成分。
根據本案揭示實施例之美容組成物可藉著阻擋紫外線(UV)及紅外線(IR)而預防老化,因此該美容組成物可廣泛用於美容及美妝領域。
以下將更完整地描述多個示範性具體實施例。然而,本案揭示內容可採各種不同形式實施並且不應受限於本案揭示內容中所提出的該些示範性具體實施例。反之,對於所屬領域中熟悉該項技藝者而言,提出這些示範性具體實施例將使本案揭示內容透徹完整且完全地涵蓋本案揭示範圍。在說明書中可能省略習知特徵及技術的細節說明,藉以避免不必要地模糊掉所提出之具體實施例。
在一態樣中,根據本發明一實施例之組成物係一種預防及改善老化的美容組成物,並且該美容組成物包含選自於由胺類、醯胺類及多元醇類所組成之群組中的至少一種成分以作為活性成分。
在一具體實施例中,該美容組成物是一種預防熱致老化的組成物,且更明確而言是一種用以阻擋熱或阻擋近紅外線及紅外線的組成物。該美容組成物可能更包含一種紫外線(UV)阻擋劑並且可同時預防熱致老化及光致老化。例如,根據此具體實施例之組成物可同時阻擋紫外線A、紫外線B、近紅外線及紅外線。
當用於本文中時,「熱致老化(thermal aging)」一詞意指因熱所造成的肌膚老化現象,並且「熱致老化」一詞包含當肌膚連續暴露於高溫下所發生的肌膚老化以及當肌膚暴露於紅外線下所發生的肌膚老化。經常可於需要長時間在高溫場所中工作者或長時間逗留在韓式乾三溫暖房或三溫暖浴中的人身上發現熱致老化現象。當肌膚受陽光中的紅外線曝射時亦可能發生熱致肌膚老化。特別是時至今日仍認為紅外線及近紅外線對於肌膚不會造成任何傷害。然而,一再地暴露於紅外線及近紅外線下會造成膠原蛋白合成作用驟降且提高基質金屬蛋白酶(matrix metalloproteinase,MMP)的合成作用,基質金屬蛋白酶是一種膠原蛋白分解酵素,因而造成肌膚老化。
當用於本文中時,「光致老化(photo aging)」一詞意指當肌膚曝曬於陽光下所發生的老化作用,特別是指因肌膚暴露於紫外線(UV)下所造成的肌膚老化。當光致老化進行時所發生之現象的典型範例包括在曝曬的部位(例如臉部、井部、手臂和手部)上產生粗深皺紋及色素沈澱,例如老化斑點(age spots)及瑕疵(blemish)。不同於生物性老化(包括簡單的肌膚變薄與鬆弛),光致老化肌膚的質地類似於在上皮中彈性纖維發生不正常緊密堆積的情形。因此,真皮可能無法執行支撐肌膚及留住水分的原始功能。紫外線直接造成肌膚細胞內的基因損傷並且導致肌膚老化、皮膚癌及皮膚發炎,從而附帶造成大量的氧活性物種生成且藉由氧化作用而進一步使肌膚老化。上述作用的結果是抑制用以形成真皮之膠原蛋白纖維和彈性纖維的生成以及刺激膠原蛋白分解酵素的功能,進而導致膠原蛋白纖維及彈性纖維急遽減少。
當透過稜鏡使太陽發射的光線色散時,波長比可見光要短(即波長介於397~10奈米)的電磁波係紫外線。紅外線又稱為熱射線,同時紫外線因為具有強烈化學作用而亦被稱為化學射線。此外,紫外線可根據波長大小而進一步分為近紫外線(290奈米或更長)、石英範圍紫外線(290~190奈米,可穿透石英之波長範圍)、舒曼射線(Schumann rays,190~120奈米)、黎曼射線(Reimann rays,120~60奈米)以及密立坎射線(Millikan rays,60奈米或更短)。具有190奈米或更短波長的紫外線亦可稱為遠紫外線。
當透過稜鏡使太陽發射的光線色散時,位於紅光末端之外側部分處的電磁波係紅外線。紅外線的特性在於其熱作用比可見光或紫外線更強。因此,紅外線亦可稱為熱射線。紅外線可根據波長大小而分為近紅外線(780~3000奈米)、紅外線(3000~25000奈米)以及遠紅外線(25000奈米或更長)。
發現到本文中所揭示之美容組成物可阻擋紅外線(包括近紅外線和紅外線),而已知的紫外線阻擋劑卻可能無法阻擋該些紅外線。
在一具體實施例中,含有選自於由胺類、醯胺類及多元醇類所組成之群組中之至少一種成分的美容組成物可如下列測驗範例展示般提供優越的近紅外線及紅外線阻擋效果。
當用於本文中時,「胺類(amines)」一詞係具有氨基(-NH、-NH2)官能基之材料的通稱。在一具體實施例中,胺類可包含尿素或尿素之鹽類或衍生物。尿素係如下列化學式1(CO(NH2)2)所示之有機化合物,尿素為無色結晶物質並且是蛋白代謝作用的最終分解產物。
在另一具體實施例中,胺類可包括選自於由乙醯葡萄糖胺(acetyl glucosamine)、聚麩胺酸(polyglutamic acid)、2-吡咯烷酮-5-羧酸(2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid,PCA)、丙胺酸(alanine)、離胺酸(lysine)及甘胺酸(glycine)所組成之群組中的至少一者或其鹽類或衍生物。
根據一具體實施例,胺類之含量可占該組成物總重量的0.001~20重量%,更明確而言可占1~10重量%。當胺類的含量極小量時,該組成物作為近紅外線和紅外線吸收劑的品質不佳,使得該組成物可能不足以有效預防熱致老化。另一方面,當胺類之含量極大量時,該組成物可能造成皮膚刺激或使用時觸感不佳。
當用於本文中時,「醯胺類(amides)」一詞係具有醯胺基(-CONH2
)官能基之材料的通稱。在一具體實施例中,醯胺類可包括菸鹼醯胺(niacinamide)或菸鹼醯胺之鹽類或衍生物。菸鹼醯胺具有下列化學式2所示之結構式且是維生素B複合物之一。
於另一具體實施例中,醯胺類可包括選自於由泛雙硫醇(pantethine)及泛醇(panthenol)所組成之群組中之至少一者或其鹽類或衍生物。
根據一具體實施例,醯胺類之含量可占該組成物總重量的0.001~20重量%,更明確而言可占1~10重量%。當醯胺類的含量極小量時,該組成物作為近紅外線和紅外線吸收劑的品質不佳,使得該組成物可能不足以有效預防熱致老化。另一方面,當醯胺類之含量極大量時,該組成物可能造成皮膚刺激或使用時觸感不佳。
當用於本文中時,「多元醇類(polyols)」一詞係具有多個羥基(-OH)官能基之材料的通稱。在一具體實施例中,多元醇類可包括肌醇(inositol)或肌醇之鹽類或衍生物。肌醇具有下列化學式3所示之結構式且是一種具有環己烷-1,2,3,4,5,6-六醇之結構的脂環族六元醇。
於另一具體實施例中,多元醇類可包括選自於由赤藻糖醇(erythritol)、甘油(glycerin)、麥芽糖醇(maltitol)、甘露醇(mannitol)、山梨醇(sorbitol)、木糖醇(xylitol)、丁二醇(butylene glycol)、戊二醇(pentylene glycol)及丙二醇(propylene glycol)所組成之群組中之至少一者或其鹽類或衍生物。
根據一具體實施例,多元醇類之含量可占該組成物總重量的0.001重量%或更高,明確而言可占0.001~99.9重量%,且更明確而言可占1~10重量%。當多元醇類的含量極小量時,該組成物作為近紅外線和紅外線吸收劑的品質不佳,使得該組成物可能不足以有效預防熱致老化。另一方面,當多元醇類之含量極大量時,該組成物可能造成皮膚刺激或使用時觸感不佳。
此處所揭示之美容組成物預防肌膚的熱致老化作用。特別是顯示出,該美容組成物可預防或阻斷因肌膚暴露於熱、紅外線及/或近紅外線下所造成的老化進程。於一具體實施例中,該美容組成物可進一步包含紫外線阻擋劑。根據一具體實施例,該進一步包含紫外線阻擋劑的美容組成物可同時預防因吸收紅外線所造成之熱致老化以及因吸收紫外線所造成的光致老化。在紫外線阻擋劑方面並無特殊限制,只要該紫外線阻擋劑具有阻擋紫外線的功效即可。這類紫外線阻擋劑可包括有機或無機的紫外線阻擋劑。
有機紫外線阻擋劑的具體範例可包括選自於由奧克立林(octocrylene)、辛基二甲基對氨基苯甲酸(octyl dimethyl para-aminobenzoic acid,PABA)、甲氧基桂皮酸辛酯(octyl methoxycinnamate)、水楊酸辛酯(octyl salicylate)、辛基三酮(octyl triazone)、丁基甲氧基二苯甲醯基甲烷(butylmethoxy dibenzoylmethane)、二苯基酮(benzopheneone)、羥基甲氧基二苯甲酮(oxybenzone)、(sylisobenzone)、二羥基甲氧基二苯甲酮(dioxybenzone)、麥素寧-SX(Mexoryl-SX)、因素立唑(ensulizole)、氨基苯甲酸酯(meradimate)、阿伏苯宗(avobenzone)、對甲氧基桂皮酸異戊酯(isoamyl paramethoxycinnamate)、雙-乙基己氧苯酚甲氧苯基三(bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyltriazine)及雙-(苯并三唑基羥基四甲基丁基酚)甲烷(methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol)所組成之群組中的至少一者。無機紫外線阻擋劑的具體範例可包括選自於由二氧化鈦(titanium dioxide)、氧化鈦(titanium oxide)、氧化鋅(zinc oxide)、氮化硼(boron nitride)、氧化鈰(cerium oxide)及氧化鐵(iron oxides)所組成之群組中的至少一者。此類有機或無機紫外線阻擋劑的使用並無特殊限制,只要這類有機或無機紫外線阻擋劑添加至本案所揭示之美容組成物中時不會對預防熱致老化的功效造成不利影響即可。
本文中所揭示之美容組成物可採各種方式調製而無任何特殊限制。例如,該美容組成物可調製成收斂水、滋養化妝水(nutrient lotion)、滋養霜(nutrient cream)、按摩霜、面膜(pack)、防曬霜、粉底(makeup base)。在一實施例中,該美容組成物可為阻擋近紅外線及紅外線之組成物。另一實施例中,該美容組成物可為同時阻擋紫外線及紅外線之組成物。在又另一個實施例中,該美容組成物可為同時阻擋紫外線A(320~400奈米)、紫外線B(280~320奈米)、近紅外線及紅外線的組成物。所屬技術領域中熟悉該項技藝者可根據預期用途而藉著選擇除主要成分以外之各種不同成分等等方式而簡易地提出各種配方。
現將描述該些範例及具體實施例。以下範例及具體實施例係僅作為示範目的,而非意欲用以限制本案揭示範圍。
[具體實施例1~11及比較例]
利用下列表1及表2中所示成分提供本發明美容組成物之具體實施例1~11以及比較例。
[測驗範例1]測定紅外線阻擋能力
根據範例1~11及比較例所做之組成物的紅外線(IR)保護力係經測定。明確而言,係透過購自布魯克公司(Bruker Co.)的傅立葉轉換紅外線光譜儀Tensor 27測定紅外線保護力。待分析之樣本採用顆粒(pellet)形式,且藉由測量每個樣本的穿透率進行該測驗。測驗結果顯示於第1~4圖中,其中波長範圍顯示於x軸並且以波數(公分-1
)為單位表示。
參閱第1~4圖,在該紅外線(IR)範圍中的穿透率越低表示阻擋紅外線的能力越高。可看出,相較於比較例的組成物而言,範例1~11之美容組成物具有較高的紅外線保護力。
[測驗範例2]測定近紅外線吸收度
根據範例1~3以及比較例所做之組成物的近紅外線保護力係經測定。明確而言,係透過購自布魯克公司(Bruker Co.)的傅立葉轉換近紅外線光譜儀Tensor 27測定近紅外線保護力。待分析之樣本採用顆粒(pellet)形式,且藉由測量每個樣本的穿透率進行該測驗。該測驗結果顯示於第5圖中,其中波長範圍顯示於x軸並且以波數(公分-1
)為單位表示。
參閱第5圖,在近紅外線範圍中的穿透率越低表示阻擋近紅外線的能力越高。可看出,相較於比較例的組成物而言,範例1~3之美容組成物具有較高的近紅外線保護力。特別是,根據範例2及範例3之美容組成物能阻擋在4000~10000公分-1
區域內大部分的近紅外線。
現將描述多個配方範例。然而,除以下描述的形式以外,本案所揭示之美容組成物可調製成其它各種形式。下列配方範例僅做示範目的,並非用以限制本案揭示內容之範圍。
本案雖已揭示及描述多個示範性具體實施例,但所屬技術領域中熟悉該項技藝者將理解到可針對該些具體實施例之形式與細節方面做出各種變化,且所做變化並不偏離後附申請專利範圍所界定之本案揭示內容的精神及範圍。
此外可對本案之教示內容做出多種修飾以順應特殊狀況或材料,且所做修飾不偏離本發明之基本範圍。因此,本案揭示內容不應受限於文中所揭示之特定的示範性具體實施例,該些具體實施例係作為用以實施本發明之最佳模式,但本發明將涵蓋落入後附申請專利範圍之範圍內的所有實施例。
配合附圖閱讀上述詳細之發明說明將可更清楚理解所揭示之示範性具體實施例的上述及其它態樣、特徵及優點,且所附圖式如下:
第1圖至第4圖係顯示利用傅立葉轉換紅外線光譜儀測量紅外線防護力之結果的曲線圖。
第5圖係顯示利用傅立葉轉換近紅外線光譜儀測量近-紅外線防護力之結果的曲線圖。
Claims (12)
- 一種美容組成物的用途,用以阻擋近紅外線或紅外線,該美容組成物是由胺類、醯胺類及多元醇所組成之群組中的至少一成分所製造。
- 如申請專利範圍第1項所述之用途,其中,該美容組成物預防熱致老化。
- 如申請專利範圍第1項所述之用途,其中,該美容組成物阻擋熱。
- 如申請專利範圍第1項所述之用途,其中,該美容組成物更包含一紫外線阻擋劑。
- 如申請專利範圍第4項所述之用途,其中,該美容組成物同時預防熱致老化以及光致老化。
- 如申請專利範圍第4項所述之用途,其中,該美容組成物同時阻擋紫外線A、紫外線B、近紅外線及紅外線。
- 如申請專利範圍第1項所述之用途,其中,該美容組成物包含占該組成物總重量0.001~20重量%的該胺類。
- 如申請專利範圍第1項所述之用途,其中,該胺類係選自於由尿素、乙醯葡萄糖胺、聚麩胺酸、2-吡咯烷酮-5-羧酸、丙胺酸、離胺酸、甘胺酸及上述化合物之鹽類所組成之群組中的至少一者。
- 如申請專利範圍第1項所述之用途,其中,該美容組成物包含占該組成物總重量0.001~20重量%的該醯胺類。
- 如申請專利範圍第1項所述之用途,其中,該醯 胺類係選自於由菸鹼醯胺、泛雙硫醇、泛醇及上述化合物之鹽類所組成之群組中的至少一者。
- 如申請專利範圍第1項所述之用途,其中,該美容組成物包含占該組成物總重量0.001~99.9重量%的該多元醇類。
- 如申請專利範圍第1項所述之用途,其中,該多元醇類係選自於由肌醇、赤藻糖醇、甘油、麥芽糖醇、甘露醇、山梨醇、木糖醇、丁二醇、戊二醇、丙二醇及上述化合物之鹽類所組成之群組中的至少一者。
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JP2009234936A (ja) * | 2008-03-26 | 2009-10-15 | Toyobo Co Ltd | 植物由来ポリアミン含有抽出物を含有する化粧品組成物 |
DE102008061044A1 (de) * | 2008-12-11 | 2010-06-17 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Zusammensetzung mit antioxidativ wirksamen Peptiden |
DE102008061045A1 (de) * | 2008-12-11 | 2009-10-08 | Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa | Verwendung von epsilon-Viniferin |
-
2011
- 2011-05-03 KR KR1020110042071A patent/KR101275351B1/ko active IP Right Grant
- 2011-06-22 US US13/807,665 patent/US20130121937A1/en not_active Abandoned
- 2011-06-22 CN CN2011800323642A patent/CN103037834A/zh active Pending
- 2011-06-22 SG SG2012093605A patent/SG186403A1/en unknown
- 2011-06-22 WO PCT/KR2011/004546 patent/WO2012002669A2/en active Application Filing
- 2011-06-22 CN CN201610066623.8A patent/CN105708732A/zh active Pending
- 2011-06-22 JP JP2013518235A patent/JP5975989B2/ja not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 2011-06-22 EP EP11801076.8A patent/EP2600824B1/en active Active
- 2011-06-28 TW TW100122526A patent/TWI510268B/zh not_active IP Right Cessation
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2015
- 2015-12-18 US US14/975,243 patent/US20160101030A1/en not_active Abandoned
Patent Citations (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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US20040220137A1 (en) * | 2001-07-07 | 2004-11-04 | Gerhard Sauermann | Cosmetic and dermatological preparations containing osmolytes for the treatment of and active prevention of dry skin and of other negative alterations in the physiological homeostasis of healthy skin |
JP2007509899A (ja) * | 2003-11-06 | 2007-04-19 | ユニリーバー・ナームローゼ・ベンノートシヤープ | ビタミンb3、ビタミンb6及び有機酸を含む改善された化粧品組成物 |
Also Published As
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WO2012002669A3 (en) | 2012-04-26 |
TW201201878A (en) | 2012-01-16 |
SG186403A1 (en) | 2013-01-30 |
KR20120001597A (ko) | 2012-01-04 |
CN105708732A (zh) | 2016-06-29 |
US20160101030A1 (en) | 2016-04-14 |
US20130121937A1 (en) | 2013-05-16 |
JP5975989B2 (ja) | 2016-08-24 |
CN103037834A (zh) | 2013-04-10 |
EP2600824B1 (en) | 2020-06-10 |
JP2013529681A (ja) | 2013-07-22 |
KR101275351B1 (ko) | 2013-06-17 |
WO2012002669A2 (en) | 2012-01-05 |
EP2600824A2 (en) | 2013-06-12 |
EP2600824A4 (en) | 2016-03-09 |
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