TWI343822B - Hair cosmetic composition - Google Patents
Hair cosmetic composition Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- TWI343822B TWI343822B TW094105520A TW94105520A TWI343822B TW I343822 B TWI343822 B TW I343822B TW 094105520 A TW094105520 A TW 094105520A TW 94105520 A TW94105520 A TW 94105520A TW I343822 B TWI343822 B TW I343822B
- Authority
- TW
- Taiwan
- Prior art keywords
- hair
- acid
- group
- hair cosmetic
- weight
- Prior art date
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- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims description 35
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims description 3
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A01—AGRICULTURE; FORESTRY; ANIMAL HUSBANDRY; HUNTING; TRAPPING; FISHING
- A01K—ANIMAL HUSBANDRY; AVICULTURE; APICULTURE; PISCICULTURE; FISHING; REARING OR BREEDING ANIMALS, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR; NEW BREEDS OF ANIMALS
- A01K61/00—Culture of aquatic animals
- A01K61/70—Artificial fishing banks or reefs
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/362—Polycarboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/12—Preparations containing hair conditioners
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- E—FIXED CONSTRUCTIONS
- E02—HYDRAULIC ENGINEERING; FOUNDATIONS; SOIL SHIFTING
- E02B—HYDRAULIC ENGINEERING
- E02B3/00—Engineering works in connection with control or use of streams, rivers, coasts, or other marine sites; Sealings or joints for engineering works in general
- E02B3/04—Structures or apparatus for, or methods of, protecting banks, coasts, or harbours
- E02B3/043—Artificial seaweed
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- E—FIXED CONSTRUCTIONS
- E02—HYDRAULIC ENGINEERING; FOUNDATIONS; SOIL SHIFTING
- E02B—HYDRAULIC ENGINEERING
- E02B3/00—Engineering works in connection with control or use of streams, rivers, coasts, or other marine sites; Sealings or joints for engineering works in general
- E02B3/04—Structures or apparatus for, or methods of, protecting banks, coasts, or harbours
- E02B3/046—Artificial reefs
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Environmental Sciences (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Biodiversity & Conservation Biology (AREA)
- Animal Husbandry (AREA)
- Zoology (AREA)
- Marine Sciences & Fisheries (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Description
1343822 九、發明說明： 【發明所屬之技術領域】 , 本發明係關於含有有機二羧酸或其鹽之免沖洗型的毛髮 « ，化粧料。 【先前技術】 近年來，由於染髮等之化學處理或吹風等之物理處理的 影響，引起毛髮表面之角質層剝離或因毛髮内部脂質流出 造成的毛髮内部空洞化等，結果，發生毛髮乾澀、手指梳 ® 理性差，毛髮毛燥、失去光澤。
現在主要使用之免沖洗型的毛髮化粧料，為了對毛髮賦 予集束性並防止乾澀，已有含有蠟、高級醇、界面活性劑 等之髮霜型等之乳化系商品，或含有皮膜形成用聚合物（定 型聚合物）的膠狀商品等。此類毛髮化粧料係經由在毛髮表 面附著油脂或聚合物類而形成皮膜狀之構造，可暫時解決 集束性的惡化、乾澀等問題，但本質上並無法改善毛髮的 光澤和集束性。 另一方面，以改質毛髮為目的之毛髮化粧料已知有幾 種，其中，經由作用於毛髮内部而嘗試改質的技術已知有 使用特定之有機酸和有機溶劑者（例如，參照日本專利特開 平 7 - 1 1 2 9 2 1號公報、特開平 6 - 1 7 2 1 3 1號公報、特開平 9 - 3 0 1 8 3 1號公報、特開平6 - 2 9 8 6 2 5號公報）。該等為令硬 且難處理的毛髮柔軟化，且促進毛髮的集束者。 【發明内容】 本發明提供含有下列成分（A )、（ B )及（C ): 312XIV 發明說明書(補件)/94-06/94105520 ⑧ 1343822 (A )碳數2〜8個之有機二羧酸或其鹽； (B )由芳香族醇類、N -烷基吡咯啶酮、碳酸伸烷酯、聚丙 二醇、内酯及環狀酮類所組成群組中選出之C 1 〇 g P為-2〜3 的有機溶劑；以及 (C)乙底酸（edetic acid)或其鹽；且 以水稀釋至2 0重量倍時之2 5 °C中的p Η為2〜5之免沖洗型 的毛髮化粧料。
更且，本發明提供使用上述毛髮化粧料處理毛髮的毛髮 改質方法。另外，於本發明中，所謂毛髮之改質係指消除 毛髮不佳的觸感，或令毛髮的強度·韌性、光澤提高。 【實施方式】 本發明係關於可本質上改質毛髮，可提高毛髮的光澤、 集束性，且觸感優良、免沖洗型的毛髮化粧料。 本發明者等人發現，若於含有有機二羧酸和促進滲透之 有機溶劑的毛髮化粧料中進一步配合乙底酸或其鹽，不僅 提高耐鹽性能，經由使乙底酸預先吸附至毛髮且抑制浮渣 (s c u m )的生成，可更加提高洗髮時的觸感，且解除例如燙 髮後之毛髮的硬澀和洗髮時之摩擦感等之不佳觸感，並亦 提高強度·韌性和光亮，遂完成本發明。 本發明之成分（A )有機二羧酸為碳數2〜8個者，可列舉丙 二酸、琥珀酸、戊二酸、己二酸、順丁烯二酸、反丁烯二 酸、苯二甲酸、草酸、蘋果酸、酒石酸等。其中，較佳者 可列舉碳數3個以上者，特別以屬羥基二羧酸的蘋果酸、 酒石酸，加上丙二酸、琥珀酸為佳，且尤其以蘋果酸為佳。 7 312XP/發明說明書(補件)/94-06/94) 05520 1343822 此等有機二羧酸之鹽可列舉與鹼金屬、鹼土金屬、氨 機胺化合物之鹽。 此等成分（A)亦可併用二種以上，且其含量由毛髮之 .改質（空洞修補等）效果、保持定型提高效果、集束改 果之觀點而言，以本發明之毛髮化粧料中之0 . 0 1〜3 0 1 為佳，且以0 . 1〜2 0重量％更佳、特別以0 . 5〜1 0重量％為 本發明之成分（B )有機溶劑係由芳香族醇類' N -烷基 啶酮、碳酸伸烷酯、聚丙二醇、内酯及環狀酮類所組 Φ 組中選出，更詳言之，可列舉由下列（b 1 ) ~ ( b 5 )所選出 (b 1 ) —般式（1 )所示之芳香族醇類 、有 内部 善效 i量％ 佳。 °比D各 成群 者。 R1—(OCH2CH2)— (OCH2CH)—Z (ΟΗ2ή~γ (1)
[式中，R1表示基團R2-Ph-R3-(R2:氫原子、甲基或甲 R3 :鍵結臂或碳數1〜3個之飽和或不飽和二價烴基； 對伸苯基），Y及Z表示氫原子或經基，p、q及r表示 之整數。但，p = Q= 0時，Z不為氫原子，且 R1不為 R2_Ph-。] (b 2 )於氮原子結合碳數1〜1 8個之烷基的N -烷基吡 酮 (b 3 )碳數2 - 4個之碳酸伸烷酯 (b 4 )數平均分子量1 〇 〇 Μ 0 0 0之聚丙二醇 (b 5 ) —般式（2 ) ' ( 3 )或（4 )所示之内SI或環狀酮類 基； Ph ： 0~5 基圓 咯啶 3 12XP/發明說明書(補件)/94-06/94105520 8 ⑧ 1343822
基，a及b表示0或1。]
屬成分（Β )之有機溶劑中，（b 1 )可列舉苄醇、肉桂醇、苯 乙醇、對-大喆香醇、對-甲基苄醇、笨氧基乙醇、2 -苄基 氧基乙醇等。（b 2 )可列舉N -曱基吡咯啶酮、N -辛基吡咯啶 酮' N -月桂基吡咯。定酮等。（b 3 )可列舉碳酸伸乙酯、碳酸 伸丙酯等》( b 4 )之數平均分子量1 0 0〜]〇 0 0之聚丙二醇以數 平均分子量1 0 0、5 0 0者、特別是聚合度2〜5者為佳。（b 5 ) 中，一般式（2 )〜（4 )中之R4及R 5以直鏈、分枝鏈或環狀之 烷基、羥基、磺酸基、磷酸基、羧基、苯基、磺烷基、磷 酸烷基、羧烷基等為佳，其中於7 -内酯之情況以7位、5 -内酯之情況以<5位（即雜氧原子之鄰接亞曱基）取代之碳 數I ~ 6個之直鍵或分枝鍵烧基，例如甲基、乙基、丙基、 異丙基、丁基等為佳。又，欲增大化合物（2 )〜（4 )之水溶性 的情況，R4或R5以磺酸基、磷酸基' 羧基等之酸性基或具 有經波等取代之烷基為佳。（b 5 )中，内酯可列舉γ - 丁内 δ旨、丨-己内δ| 、 7 -戊内酯、（5 -戊内II 、 5 -己内酷、5- 庚内酯等，但由内酯之安定性觀點而言，以7 -内酯、特別 是r - 丁内si及r -己内酯為佳。（b 5)中，環狀酮類可列舉 3丨2XP/發明說明書(補件)/94-06/94105520 ⑧ 1343822 環戊明、環己酮、環庚酮、4 -甲基環庚酮等。 特佳之成分（B )可列舉苄醇、苄基氧化乙醇、碳酸伸丙 酯及丙二醇（數平均分子量3 0 0 ~ 5 0 0、特別為4 0 0 )。 又，本發明所用之成分（B)於 25 °C下為液體為佳，且 C 1 〇 g P必須為-2〜3，特別由促進滲透之觀點而言，以-2 為佳。此處，C 1 〇 g P係表示辛醇相與水相之間的物質分配 尺度，係以下式所定義之辛醇-水-分配係數（1 〇 g P )的計算 值，於Chemical Reviews 71卷，6號（1971)中記載其例。 籲 logP=log([物質]。…π〇ι/[物質]…er) [式中，[物質]Ddn Μ表示1-辛醇相中之物質的莫耳濃度， [物質]* 8 t e r表示水相中之物質的莫耳濃度。] 若具體示出主要成分（B)的 ClogP，則為¥醇（1.1)、2-苄基氧化乙醇（1.2)、2 -苯基乙醇（1.2)、1-苯氧基-2 -丙醇 (1.1)、聚丙二醇 400(0.9)、碳酸伸丙酯（-0.41)、7-丁 内酯（-0.64)。 成分（B)亦可併用二種以上，且其含量由使用感、毛髮
之光澤和改質效果之促進（彈性之提高、耐濕性之提高等） 方面而言，以本發明之毛髮化粧料中之 0.1~40 重量％為 佳，且以0 , 5〜1 0重量％更佳、特別以1〜5重量％為佳。 成分（C)之乙底酸之鹽可列舉例如鹼金屬鹽、鈉鹽 '和 鉀鹽。具體而言，可列舉乙底酸二鈉、乙底酸三鈉及乙底 酸四鈉。經由將乙底酸或其鹽配合至毛髮化粧料中，不僅 提高耐鹽性能，且經由使乙底酸預先吸附至毛髮且抑制浮 渣的生成，更加提高洗髮時的觸感，可解除例如燙髮後之 312XP/發明說明書(補件)/94-06/94105520 10 ⑧
1343822 毛髮等的硬澀和洗髮時等之不佳觸感，更且亦提高 韋刃性和光澤。 成分（c)亦可併用二種以上，且其含量以本發明 化粧料中之0 . 0 1、1 0重量％為佳，以0 . 0 5 ~ 5重量％ 3 別以0 . 1〜2重量％為佳。 成分（A)之有機二羧酸或其鹽與成分（B)之有機 重量比率，為令毛髮之内部改質（空洞修補等）效果 保持定型、集束改善效果等有效表胡 (A ) : ( Β ) = 1 0 : 1 ~ 1 : 7，特別以4 : 1〜1 : 3之範圍為佳。 成分（B )之有機溶劑與成分（C )之乙底酸或其鹽 比率，為了使促進成分（C )對於毛髮内之滲透，且提 之強度·韌性，定型持續性等有效表現，以2 0 0 0 : 特別以5 0 0 : 1 ~ 5 : 1之範圍為佳。 更且，本發明之毛髮化粧料可含有乙醇。乙醇有 分（B )的可溶化或安定分散。更且，亦有助於成分（/ 的可溶化，藉此，可促進對於毛髮的滲透。乙醇之 本發明之毛髮化粧料中之0 . 0 1 ~ 5 0重量％、特別以 量％為佳。又，乙醇與成分（B )之重量比率由促進成分 對於毛髮的滲透而言，係乙醇：成分（B ) = 4 0 : 1〜2 : 1、 2 0 : 1〜3 : 1之範圍為佳。 於本發明之毛髮化粧料中，進一步由提高整髮性 黏度、提高安定性、毛髮塗佈時之附著性、改善觸 快速表現毛髮改質效果之觀點而言，亦可含有定？ 聚合物。此類聚合物可列舉聚乙烯基吡咯啶酮、乙 312XIV發明說明書(補件)/94-06/94丨05520 強度·. 之毛髮 L佳、特 溶劑的 、提高 L 1 係 的重量 高毛髮 1-2:1 ' 助於成 。與（C) 含量為 1〜20重 (A)〜（C) 特別以 、調整 感、及 ^ (set) 歸基。比 11 1343822 咯啶酮/醋酸乙烯酯共聚物、乙烯基吡咯啶嗣/醋酸乙烯酯/ 丙酸乙烯酯三元共聚物、乙烯基°比咯啶酮/烷胺基丙烯酸酯 (四級氣化）共聚物、乙烯基吡咯啶酮/丙烯酸酯/ (甲基）丙 烯酸共聚物、乙烯基吡咯啶酮/烷胺基丙烯酸酯/乙烯基己
内酯共聚物等之聚乙烯基吡咯啶酮系高分子化合物；曱基 乙烯醚/順丁烯二酸酐烷基半酯共聚物等之酸性乙烯醚系 高分子化合物；醋酸乙烯酯/ 丁烯酸共聚物、醋酸乙烯酯/ 丁烯酸/新癸酸乙烯酯共聚物、醋酸乙烯酯/ 丁烯酸/丙酸乙 烯酯共聚物等之酸性聚醋酸乙烯酯系高分子化合物；（曱基） 丙烯酸/ (甲基）丙烯酸SI共聚物、丙烯酸/丙烯酸烷酯/烷基 丙烯醖胺共聚物等之酸性丙烯酸系高分子化合物；N -甲基 丙烯醢乙基-Ν,Ν -二甲基銨.a -N -甲基羧基甜菜媸/甲基丙 烯酸丁酯共聚物、丙烯酸羥丙酯/曱基丙烯酸丁胺基乙酯/ 丙烯酸辛基醖胺共聚物等之兩性丙烯酸系高分子化合物； 丙烯醞胺•丙烯酯系四元共聚物等之鹼性丙烯酸系高分子 化合物；陽離子性纖維素衍生物等之纖維素衍生物；羥丙 基甲殼素、羧甲基殼質、羧甲基甲殼素等之殼質·甲殼素 衍生物等。 此等定型聚合物可單獨使用或組合使用二種以上，又， 其含量為本發明之毛髮化粧料中之0 . 1〜1 0重量％、特別以 0.5〜5重量％為佳。 於本發明之毛髮化粧料中，為 了更力〇提高調理 (conditioning) $1 ^ ，可含有自聚矽氡類及油劑所選出的 調理成分。聚矽氧類可列舉二甲.基聚矽氧烷、聚醚改質聚 3丨2XP/發明說明書(補件)/94-06/94丨05520 12 ⑧ 1343822 矽氧 '胺基改質聚矽氧、羧基改質聚矽氧、甲基笨基聚矽 氧烷、脂肪酸改質聚矽氧、醇改質聚矽氧、脂肪族醇改質 聚矽氧、環氧改質聚矽氧、氟改質聚矽氧、環狀聚矽氡、 烷基改質聚矽氧等。其中以二甲基聚矽氧烷、聚醚改質聚 矽氧、胺基改質聚矽氧為佳。二曱基聚矽氧烷對於毛髮可 賦予良好的潤滑性，聚醚改質聚矽氧對於毛髮可賦予光滑 度，胺基改質聚矽氧對於毛髮可賦予濕澗感。於本發明中’ 可根據所要求之性能’將各種聚矽氧烷類單獨使用或使用 鲁二種以上。 二曱基聚*夕氧坑係根據所求之觸感’可使用5 m m2 / s左右 之黏度者至以乳化劑型式供給之情況之1 0 0 0萬m m Z / s左右 之多的黏度者，但以5 Ο Ο Ο ~ 1 Ο Ο 0萬m m2 / s、特別以5萬~ 1 Ο Ο Ο 萬mm2/s者為佳。 聚鍵改質聚石夕氧為聚氧乙烯•甲基聚石夕氧坑共聚物、聚 (氧乙烯•氧丙烯）曱基聚矽氧烷共聚物的總稱’已知具有 各種HLB者，市售品可列舉信越化學工業公司之Silicone
KF351A、 KF353A ' KF6008 ' KF6016、 KF601I' KF60I2、東 麗· Dow Corning· Silicone 公司之 SH3771C、 3773C、 3775C 等。胺基改質聚矽氡以amodimethiconeoil或其乳化劑為 佳，市售品可列舉東麗· Dow Corning· Silicone公司之 Amodimethicone Emulsion SM8704C 、東芝 Silicone 公司 之 KT-1989 、 XF42-B1989 等。 聚矽氧類之含量由手指梳理性、無黏膩感之方面而言， 以本發明之毛髮化粧料中之 0 . 0 5 ~ 2 0重量％為佳，更且以 312ΧΡ/發明說明書(補件)/94-06/94105520 13 1343822 Ο .卜1 0重量％、特別以Ο . 5〜5重量％為佳。
油劑係用以提高乾燥後之毛髮集束感而使用。油劑可列 舉角鯊烯、角鯊烷、流動異烷烴、輕質流動異烷烴、重質 流動異炫·煙、（2 -稀烴低聚物、流動石蝶、環石瑕等之煙類； 蓖麻油 '可可油、貂油、酪梨油、橄欖油等之甘油酯類； 蜜蠟、鯨蠟、羊毛脂、微晶蠟、地蠟、巴西棕櫊蠟等之蠟 類；鯨蠟醇、油醇、硬脂醇、異硬脂醇、2 -辛基十二醇等 之高級醇類；肉豆蔻酸辛基十二酯、月桂酸己δΙ 、乳化鯨 蠟基、單硬脂酸丙二醇酯、油酸油酯、2 -乙基己酸十六酯、 異壬酸異壬酯、異壬酸十三酯等之酯類；癸酸、月桂酸、 肉豆蔻酸、棕櫚酸、硬脂酸、山崙酸、油酸、椰子油脂肪 酸、異硬脂酸、異棕櫚酸等之高級脂肪酸類；其他異硬脂 基甘油醚、聚氧丙烯丁醚等。其中，以角鯊烯、角鯊烷、 流動異烷烴、輕質流動異烷烴、重質流動異烷烴、α -烯烴 低聚物等之分枝烴類為特佳。 油劑之含量由集束之良好度和無黏腻感之觀點而言，以 本發明之毛髮化粧料中之 0 . 0 5 ~ 2 0 重量％為佳，更且以 0 . 1〜1 0重量％、特別以0 . 5 ~ 5重量％為佳。 於本發明之毛髮化粧料中，由提高包含溶劑之可溶化、 分散性等之系統安定性及觸感之觀點而言，可含有界面活 性劑。界面活性劑可使用陽離子界面活性劑、非離子界面 活性劑、兩性界面活性劑、陰離子性界面活性劑之任一種》 陽離子界面活性劑可列舉下列一般式（6 )所示之四級敍 鹽0 3 12ΧΡ/發明說明書(補件)/94-06/94105520 14 ⑧ 1343822 R6\+/CH3 _ /N Z (6) R〆、CH3 [式中，R6及R7分別獨立表示氫原子、碳數1 - 2 8個之烷基 或苄基，且同時為氮原子或苄基的情況、以及碳數1 ~ 3個 之低坑基的情況除外。Z表示陰離子。]
此處，R G及R 7之一者為碳數1 6〜2 4個、更且為2 2個之 烷基、特別以直鏈烷基為佳，另一者為破數1〜3個之低級 烷基、特別以曱基為佳。陰離子Z _可列舉氣化物離子、溴 化物離子等之鹵化物離子；乙基硫酸離子、碳酸甲酯離子 等之有機陰離子等，且以鹵化物離子、特別以氣化物離子 為佳。
陽離子界面活性 言，可列舉氣化鯨 氣化芳烷基三曱基 氣化硬脂基三甲基 非離子界面活性 烷基烯醚、高級脂 肪酸單或二乙醇δδ 梨糖醇酐脂肪酸酯 界面活性劑、烷基 苽氧化伸烷基烷醚 乙烯烷醚為特佳。 兩性界面活性劏 劑以单長鏈烷基四 蠟基三甲基銨、氣 銨、氱化山嵛基三 銨、氣化山嵛基三 劑可列舉聚氧化伸 肪酸蔗糖酯、聚甘 胺、聚軋乙烯硬化 、聚氡乙烯山梨醇 氧化胺、烷基醯胺 、聚氧乙烯硬化蓖 可列舉咪唑啉系、 級銨鹽為佳，具體而 化硬脂基三甲基銨、 甲基銨等，且特別以 甲基銨為佳。 烷基烷醚、聚氧化伸 油脂肪酸酯、高級脂 蓖麻油、试氧乙烤山 脂肪酸酯、烷基餹系 氧化胺等。其中，以 麻油為佳，且以眾氧 碳刼菜狯系、醢胺鉗 312ΧΡ/發明說明書(補件)/94-06/94 ] 05520 15 ⑧ 1343822 菜铪系、磺酸基树菜姶系、羥磺酸基甜菜媸系 '醖胺磺酸 基甜菜炝系等。 陰離子界面活性劑可列舉烷基笨磺酸鹽、烷基或烯基醚 硫酸鹽、烷基或烯基硫酸鹽、烯烴磺酸鹽、鏈烷磺酸鹽、 飽和或不飽和脂肪δέ鹽、烷基或烯基醚羧酸鹽' α -ί風脂肪 酸鹽、Ν -醯基胺基酸型界面活性劑、磷酸單或二酯型界面
活性劑、磺基琥36酸酯等。上述界面活性劑之陰離子性殘 基的對離子可列舉鈉離子、鉀離子等之鹼金屬離子；鈣離 子、鎂離子等之蛤土金屬離子；銨離子；具有1〜3個之碳 $丈2或3個之烷6|基的烷醇胺（例如單乙醇胺、二乙醇胺、 三乙醇胺、三異丙醇胺等）。又，陽離子性殘基之對離子可 列舉氣化物離子、溴化物離子、碘化物離子等之函化物離 子；硫酸曱 81 ( m e t h 〇 s υ 1 f a t e )離子；糖精酸鹽 (saccharinate)離子 ° 其中，由觸感方面而言，以陽離子界面活性劑為佳。界 面活性劑可單獨使用或組合使用二種以上，且由包含溶劑 之可溶化、油劑之乳化等之系統安定性的觀點而言，其含 量以本發明之毛髮化粧料中之 〇 . 〇 1 ~ 1 〇 重量％、特別以 0 . 0 5 ~ 3重量％為佳。 更且，於本發明之毛髮化粧料中，可含有多元醇。多元 醇有助於成分（Β )的可溶化、安定分散，又，與成分（Β )相 乘性地發揮作用，促進光澤和毛髮改質效果之提升。多元 醇可列舉乙二醇、甘油、山梨醇、丙二醇、1 , 3 - 丁二醇， 二丙二醇等，且特別以甘油為佳。多元醇可單獨使用或組 16 312ΧΡ/發明說明書(補件)/94-06/94105520 1343822 合使用二種以上，又，其含量以本發明之毛髮化粧料中之 0 . 1〜1 0重量％、特別以0 . 5 ~ 5重量％為佳。 於本發明之毛髮化粧料中，除了上述成分以外，可根據 目的適當配合通常之毛髮化粧料所用的成分。此類成分可 列舉例如抗頭皮屑劑；維生素劑；殺菌劑；消炎劑；成分 (C )以外的嵌合劑；山梨糖醇 '泛醇等之保濕劑；染料、顏 料等之著色劑；羥乙基纖維素、曱基纖維素、聚乙二醇、 黏土礦物等之黏度調整劑；成分（A )以外之有機酸、氫氧化 Φ 鈉、氫氧化鉀等之pH調整劑；植物萃取物類；珍珠化劑： 香料；色素；紫外線吸收劑；抗氡化劑；其他[ENCYCLOPEDIA OF SHAMPOO INGREDIENTS (MICELLE PRESS)]t 所記載之成 分等。
本發明之毛髮化粧料由促進成分（A )及（B )對毛髮之滲透 吸附，同時對毛髮賦予光澤、柔軟性、集束感、柔軟度等 之觀點而言，係將應用於毛髮時的ρ Η (以水稀釋至2 0重量 倍時，25 °C下）調整至2~5，且以ρΗ2·5~4、特別以ρΗ3~4 之範圍為佳。 本發明之毛髮化粧料的形態可適當選擇液狀、膠狀、糊 狀、乳霜狀、蠟狀等，溶劑以使用水或低級醇、特別以使 用水之液狀者為佳。 本發明之毛髮化粧料以頭髮造型劑、頭髮調理劑等型式 使用為佳。劑型可列舉按壓噴劑、氣溶膠喷劑、按壓泡沫 劑、氣溶膠泡沫劑、膠、洗劑（1 〇 t i ο η )等。 更且，將本發明之毛髮化粧料塗佈至毛髮後，經由加 312ΧΡ/發明說明書(補件)/94-06/94105520 17 ⑧ 1343822 溫，可促進成分（A )及（B )滲透至毛髮内部。加溫可使用乾 燥器、加熱器、燙髮鉗等。溫度以 60。(：以上、特別以 °C以上為佳。 <實施例> 以下列舉實施例，更具體地說明本發明，但本發明並非 限定於此些實施例。 以下實施例及比較例中之pH為以水稀釋至20重量倍時 之25°C中之值。
調製表2所示的毛髮化粧料，且進行「定型性」、「強度· 韋刃性之提高效果j、「集束性」、「觸感」及「光澤」的評價。 此些結果示於表2。 (評價方法） 「定型性」之評價 1 )評價t束 使用未進行燙髮、染髮等化學處理的日本人女性毛髮，
作成長度1 0公分、寬1 . 5公分、重1克的髮束，進行2 次漂白處理（使用花王公司製，Ravenus Color Appeal 1 n a z u ni a B 1 e a c h )，作成定型性評價髮束。 2 )髮束之處理 •洗髮前評價（7次處理） 將評價髮束予以洗髮（花王公司製，Ravenus Designing Shampoo)-以毛巾擦乾後，將本發明品或比較品（以下稱為 「處理劑」）0 . 1克均勻塗佈，且以7 0 °C之溫風乾燥1 0分 312XP/發明說明書(補件)/94-06/94105520 18 ⑧ 1343822 錢。此處理共計重複6次。其次，同上述進行洗髮、毛巾 擦乾、處理劑之塗佈後，將髮束捲成直徑4公分的圓柱’ 且以7 0 °C之溫風乾燥1 0分鐘。 , ·洗髮後評價 經由評價毛髮表面之處理劑洗淨後的定型保持性’調查 髮内部的改質效果。上述洗髮前評價終了後，將各髮束進 行洗髮、毛巾擦乾，未施以處理劑地捲成直徑4公分的圓 柱，以7 0 °C之溫風乾燥1 0分鐘。 # 3 )評價之手續及基準 將經定型的髮束由圓柱取出，並對髮束以梳子（環形梳） 通過 2 0次將髮束作成散亂狀。將其吊於恆溫恆濕箱（2 5 °C ，9 8 % R Η )，判定定型保持力。判定係經由測定所垂吊之 髮束長度（由紮束部分至髮尾為止的距離），並將剛吊起後 之髮束長度視為定型保持率1 0 0 %、無捲曲之原來髮束長度 Ο 0公分）視為定型保持率0 %，並根據下式求出3 0分鐘後 之髮束長度的相對值（％)，即定型保持率。
定刑保持細)-(原來髮束之長度)-(3〇分鐘後之髮束長度)χ1〇〇 ;(原來髮束之長度Η剛捲曲後之髮束長度） 「強度.韌性之提高效果」、「集束性」、「觸感（光滑度、濕 潤感、柔軟度、硬澀、黏腻）」及「光澤」的評價 1 )評價髮束 使用未進行燙髮、染髮等化學處理的日本人女性毛髮， 作成長度2 5公分、重6克的髮束，進行2次漂白處理（使 用花王公司製，Ravenus Color Appeal Inazuma Bleach)， 312XP/發明說明書(補件)/94-06/94丨05520 19 ⑧ 1343822 作成評價髮束。 2 )髮束之處理 •洗髮前評價 將評價髮束予以洗髮（花王公司製，Ravenus Designing Shampoo) >以毛巾擦乾後，將處理劑0. 6克均勻塗佈，以 7 0 °C之溫風並使用環形梳一邊梳通一邊乾燥1 0分鐘。此處 理共計重複7次。 •洗髮後評價
為了調查髮内部之改質效果，乃將上述洗髮前評價終了 的各髮束洗髮、毛巾擦乾，並以70°C之溫風且使用環形梳 一邊梳通一邊乾燥1 0分鐘。 3 )評價基準 由專門評審員 5名，根據表 1所示之基準進行官能評 價，將評價點的平均值示於表2。
312XP/發明說明書(補件)/94-06/94105520 20 ⑧ 1343822 表1
(強度•韌性之提高效果） (集東性） 5 :明顯感到強度•韌性的提高 5 可集束 4:感到強度•韌性的提高 4 稍微可集束 3:稍微感到強度•韌性的提高 3 普通 2 :不太感到強度•韌性的提高 2 集束稍差 1 :不感到強度•韌性的提高 1 集束差 (觸感：光滑度） (觸感：濕潤感） 5 :光滑 5 濕潤 4 :稍微光滑 4 稍微濕濶 3 :普通 3 普通 2 :稍微不光滑 2 頗為不濕潤 1 :不光滑 1 不濕潤 (觸感：柔軟度） (觸感：硬澀） 5 :柔軟 5 不硬澀 4:稍微柔軟 4 稍微不硬澀 3 :普通 3 普通 2 :頗不柔軟 2 稍微硬澀 1 :不柔軟 1 硬澀 (觸感：黏腻） (光澤） 5 :無黏腻 5 察見顯著的光澤改善 4:稍微不黏膩 4 : 察見光澤之改善 3 :普通 3 : 普通 2 :稍微黏腻 2 ： 未察見光澤之改善 1 :黏腻 1 ： 光澤消失 312XP/發明說明書(補件)/94-06/94丨05520 21
⑧I 1343822 表2 本發明品 比較品 1 1 2 3 配合組成 (重量％) 蘋果酸 5. 0 5. 0 5.0 — 磷酸 — — — 2. 0 2-笮基氧化乙醇 2. 5 2. 5 一 2.5 氣化硬脂基三甲基銨 0. 3 0. 3 0.3 0.3 甘油 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 乙醇 10.0 10. 0 10.0 10. 0 乙底酸二鈉 0. 8 — — — 水 餘量 餘量 餘量 餘量 氫氧化鈉（pH調整劑） 適量 適量 適量 適量 pH(以水利 ¥釋為20重量倍，25°C) 3. 7 3.7 3. 7 3. 7 洗髮前 定型性（％) 83 79 49 43 伸展•通過之提高效果 4. 2 4. 0 2. 2 1.2 不糾纏性 4. 2 3. 6 3.0 1.6 光滑度 4. 0 3.4 2. 0 1.2 濕潤感 4. 4 2. 2 1. 6 2. 0 柔軟度 3. 8 3.4 1.8 1.2 發硬 4.2 3. 6 3.0 3. 0 發黏 4.4 3. 8 3.0 3.0 光亮 4. 2 3. 0 2. 0 2. 0 洗髮後 定型性（％) 72 68 36 32 伸展•通過之提高效果 4. 0 3.4 1. 6 1.6 不糾纏性 3.4 3. 0 1.2 1.2
f 3】2XP/發明說明書(補件)/94-06/94】05520 22 1343822 由以上之結果，可確認本發明不會如現存技術般造成硬 澀、黏膩，且可達成良好的定型性、強度•韌性之提高效 果' 集束性、觸感之提高效果。又，除了經洗髮除去表面 附著成分後仍可持續效果以外，亦可確認毛髮内部之空洞 消失等之毛髮被改質的效果。 <實施例2 (按壓喷劑）> (重量％ )
頻果酸 氯化硬脂基三曱基銨 0.25 甘油 2 -节基氧化乙醉 丙二醇（Mw400) 乙醇
乙底醋酸二鈉 香料 水 氫氧化鈉（p Η調整劑） <實施例3 (按壓霧劑）〉 蘋果酸 丙二酸 2 -苄基氧化乙醇 Ν -曱基。比咯啶酮 聚乙烯基吡咯啶酮 0.02 餘量 調整至pH 3. 7 (重量°/〇) 1 . 0. 23 312XP/發明說明書(補件)/94-06/94丨05520 1343822 乙醇 乙底醋酸三鈉 香料 水 氫氧化鈉（ρ Η調整劑） <實施例4 (髮膠）> 韻果酸 0.05 餘量 調整至ρ Η 3 · 7 (重量％ )
甘油 2 -苄基氧化乙醇 7 -内 羥乙基纖維素 乙醇 乙底醋酸二鈉 乙底醋酸三鈉 2. 05
香料 水 氫氧化鈉（ρ Η調整劑） <實施例5 (頭髮洗劑）> 蘋果酸 乳酸 甘油 312ΧΡ/發明說明書(補件)/94-06/94105520 .05 餘量 調整至ρ Η 3 . 7 (重量％ ) 4.0 1 . 0 1.0 24 ⑧ 1343822
2- 苄 基 氧 化 乙 醇 2. 5 乙 醇 7. 0 乙 底 醋 酸 四 納 0. 2 香 料 0. 02 水 餘 量 氫 氧 化 納 (pH ; 調整劑） 調 整 實 施 例 6 (頭 髮 洗劑）> (重量 %) 蘋 果 酸 2. 5 乳 酸 2. 5 2- 苄 基 氧 化 乙 醇 2. 5 丙 烯 碳 酸 酯 0. 5 氣 化 硬 脂 基 三 甲基銨 0. 1 pH3. 7 聚乙二醇400 0.45 乙醇 4.5
乙底醋酸二鈉 0.05 0.05 0.02 乙底醋酸三鈉 乙底醋酸四鈉 香料 水 餘量 pH3. 7 氫氧化鈉（pH調整劑） 調整至 <實施例7 (按壓泡沫劑）〉 (重量％ )
蘋果酸 312χρ/發明說明書(補件)/9(06/94105520 25 ⑧ 1343.822 乳酸 聚氧乙烯月桂醚（16E.0.) 氣化硬脂基三甲基叙 甘油 2 -苄基氧化乙醇 乙醇 乙底醋酸二鈉 香料
1 .
0.08
氫氧化鈉（p H調整劑） 0.02 餘量 調整至ρ Η 3 . 7
312ΧΡ/發明說明書(補件)/94-06/94105520 26 ⑧
Claims (1)
1343822-------^ ‘公告本 十、申請專利範圍： -------------......-—, ,ΜΝ 1 4 2011 ；·吟時鬥 替換本 1. 一種免沖洗型之毛髮化粧料，其特徵為含有下列成分 (A)、（Β)及（C): (Α)碳數2~8個之有機二羧酸或其鹽； (Β)由苄醇、2 -苄基氧基乙醇所組成群組中選出之1個以 上的C 1 〇 g Ρ為-2〜3的有機溶劑； (C)乙底酸（edetic acid)或其鹽；且 以水稀釋至2 0重量倍時之2 5 °C下的p Η為2 ~ 5。
2. 如申請專利範圍第1項之毛髮化粧料，其中，進一步 含有定型（set)聚合物。 3. 如申請專利範圍第1項之毛髮化粧料，其中，進一步 含有由聚矽氧類及油劑所選出之 1 個以上的調理 (conditioning)成分 ° 4. 如申請專利範圍第1項之毛髮化粧料，其中，進一步 含有陽離子性界面活性劑。
5 . —種毛髮改質方法，其特徵為使用申請專利範圍第1 至4項中任一項之毛髮化粧料處理毛髮。 27 94105520
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| Publication number | Publication date |
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| JP4381169B2 (ja) | 2009-12-09 |
| US20050201966A1 (en) | 2005-09-15 |
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| DE602005003389D1 (de) | 2008-01-03 |
| KR20060042221A (ko) | 2006-05-12 |
| CN1679474A (zh) | 2005-10-12 |
| EP1584324A1 (en) | 2005-10-12 |
| DE602005003389T2 (de) | 2008-10-02 |
| CN1679474B (zh) | 2012-02-01 |
| US7981407B2 (en) | 2011-07-19 |
| TW200531704A (en) | 2005-10-01 |
| KR101196280B1 (ko) | 2012-11-06 |
| EP1584324B1 (en) | 2007-11-21 |
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