Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
  • A61K8/025—Explicitly spheroidal or spherical shape
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/06—Emulsions
  • A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
  • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
  • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
  • A61K8/895—Polysiloxanes containing silicon bound to unsaturated aliphatic groups, e.g. vinyl dimethicone
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
  • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
  • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
  • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
  • A61K8/927—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of insects, e.g. shellac
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9706—Algae
  • A61K8/9717—Rhodophycota or Rhodophyta [red algae], e.g. Porphyra
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
  • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
  • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
  • A61K8/98—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin
  • A61K8/987—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin of species other than mammals or birds
  • A61K8/988—Honey; Royal jelly, Propolis
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
  • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q13/00—Formulations or additives for perfume preparations
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
  • A61K2800/24—Thermal properties
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
  • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
  • A61K2800/33—Free of surfactant
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/48—Thickener, Thickening system
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
  • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
  • A61K2800/60—Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
  • A61K2800/65—Characterized by the composition of the particulate/core
  • A61K2800/651—The particulate/core comprising inorganic material

Definitions

• the present invention relates to compositions, in particular cosmetic, comprising a fatty phase and an aqueous phase, said aqueous phase being in the form of solid spheres. It also relates to the cosmetic use of said compositions, especially for the makeup and / or care of keratin materials, in particular lips and / or eyelids.
• a recurring problem with cosmetic compositions such as gloss (or lip gloss), lipstick, eyeliners and eye gloss is their stickiness and / or their low ability to hydrate the lips or eyelids continuously. This is due to their predominantly anhydrous nature. Indeed, it is difficult to maintain the water in a stabilized form in such compositions.
• the object of the present invention is to provide a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, and in particular of lip gloss, lipstick, concrete, eyeliners and eye gloss, having both a high gloss and hydration, freshness and satisfactory application comfort.
• the object of the present invention is also to provide a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, and in particular of gloss type, lipsticks, concretes, eyeliners and eye gloss, having a satisfactory degree of gloss while being able to impart good resistance in the skin. time with a lower tack, good hydration and a freshness and comfort to the application.
• the present invention also aims to provide such a composition devoid of silicone oil.
• the object of the present invention is also to provide a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, and in particular of the lip gloss, lipstick, eyeliners and eye gloss type, which has an immediate hydration upon application, and which can last up to more than six hours. after the application.
• the present invention also aims to provide a composition for stabilizing over time an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase without necessarily using conventional stabilization systems, for example of the membrane type, bark or coacervate, at the interface between the fatty phase and the aqueous phase.
• the object of the present invention is also to provide a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, and in particular of gloss, lipstick, eyeliners and eye gloss, comprising a transparent or at least translucent fatty phase.
• the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising a fatty phase and an aqueous phase, said aqueous phase being substantially immiscible with the fatty phase, at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, in which:
• the aqueous phase is in the form of solid spheres (S1) at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, comprising at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably a heat-sensitive agent, and
• the fatty phase comprises at least one lipophilic agent having a suspensive, preferably thixotropic, power, preferably a hydrophobic silica.
• an agent is said to be thixotropic if under constant stress (or velocity gradient), the apparent viscosity of the phase comprising said agent decreases over time.
• the physical property of thixotropy is therefore:
• the thixotropic phase will restructure (its viscosity increases);
• the phase Under stress sufficiently high to break the structure formed at rest, the phase can flow and deconstruct. Its viscosity decreases with the progression of destructuring.
• a composition according to the invention is therefore in the form of a dispersion of spheres (S1) in the fatty phase.
• compositions according to the invention combine satisfactory properties in terms of gloss and withstand over time, as well as good hydration (immediate hydration), freshness and comfort on application on the skin. keratinous materials (especially less sticky and non-braking). In addition, the hydration is all the more interesting that it is immediate to the application and lasts up to more than 6 hours after application.
• composition according to the invention is a new alternative for stabilizing over time an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase without necessarily having to resort to conventional stabilization systems, for example membrane, bark, coacervate, at the interface between the fatty phase and the aqueous phase.
• the stability in time of the spheres (S1) is all the more interesting and novel when they are macroscopic.
• a differentiating visualization is obtained, in particular in the field of cosmetic compositions such as gloss, lipstick, eyeliners and eye gloss.
• the composition according to the invention is not a macroscopically homogeneous mixture.
• the hydrophilic gelling agent and the lipophilic agent having a suspending power which makes it possible to stabilize the composition according to the invention, and in particular to prevent and / or avoid the coalescence of the spheres (S1) between them and the creaming of the spheres (S1) in the fatty phase.
• a composition according to the invention is preferably devoid of surfactant. They are therefore different from the usual cosmetic compositions.
• a composition according to the invention is a topical and therefore non-oral composition.
• a composition according to the invention is not a food composition.
• a composition according to the invention is translucent, or even transparent.
• the transparency or translucency property of the composition according to the invention is determined in the following way: the composition to be tested is cast in a 30ml Volga pot, the composition is left for 24 hours at room temperature and a white sheet is placed underneath. on which is traced in black felt a cross about 2mm thick. If the cross is visible to the naked eye in daylight at an observation distance of 40 cm, the composition is transparent or translucent.
• This transparent or translucent appearance is very satisfactory, especially for the consumer, from an aesthetic point of view and can, therefore, be of great commercial interest.
• the viscosity of the compositions according to the invention can vary significantly, which makes it possible to obtain varied textures.
• composition according to the invention dedicated to the makeup and / or care of keratin materials, in particular lips and / or eyelids, may be a gloss, a lipstick, a eyeliners and an eye gloss.
• the composition according to the invention has a viscosity of between 1 mPa.s and 500,000 mPa.s, preferably between 10 mPa.s and 300,000 mPa.s, and better still between 1,000 mPa.s. and 100,000 mPa.s as measured at 25 ° C.
• a composition according to the invention of gloss type has a viscosity of between 1,000 mPa.s and 20,000 mPa.s, preferably between 2,000 mPa.s and 15,000 mPa.s, and better still between 5,000 mPa.s .s and 10,000 mPa.s as measured at 25 ° C.
• a composition according to the invention of gloss type has a viscosity of less than 20,000 mPa.s, better still less than 15,000 mPa.s, and more particularly less than or equal to 10,000 mPa.s.
• a Brookfield type viscometer typically a Brookfield RVDV-E digital viscometer (spring torque of 7187.0 dyne-cm) is used, which is a rotational speed viscometer provided with a mobile (referred to as "Spindle").
• a speed is imposed on the mobile in rotation and the measurement of the torque exerted on the mobile makes it possible to determine the viscosity knowing the geometry / shape parameters of the mobile used.
• a mobile of size No. 05 (Brookfield reference: RV5) is used.
• the shear rate corresponding to the measurement of the viscosity is defined by the mobile used and the speed of rotation thereof.
• compositions according to the invention comprise an aqueous phase in the form of spheres (S1) which are solid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure.
• the ambient temperature corresponds to a temperature of 25 ° C ⁇ 2 ° C, and the atmospheric pressure to a pressure equal to 1013 mbar.
• the spheres (S1) are preferably soft solids.
• the term "flexible solid” is understood to mean in particular that the spheres (S1) according to the invention do not flow under their own weight, but may be deformed by pressure, for example with a finger. Thus, their consistency is similar to that of a butter (without the bold character), with a malleable and prehensible character.
• the spheres (S1) can be spread easily by hand, in particular on a keratinous material, in particular the skin.
• a sphere (S1) solid flexible according to the invention meets at least one of the physicochemical criteria 1, 2. a, 2.b, 2.c and 2.d below, including at least two criteria , preferably at least three criteria, better at least four criteria, or even preferentially the five criteria 1, 2. a, 2.b, 2.c and 2.d, made on the basis of a bulk of aqueous phase used to manufacture said spheres (S1). Unless otherwise indicated, these criteria are measured at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (1 atm).
• the aqueous phase according to the invention has a viscoelastic curve at 25 ° C, measured between 10 ⁇ 2 Hz and 100 Hz, such that there is no point of intersection between the curves G 'and G " G 'being always strictly greater than G "(for measurements made at a frequency between 10 ⁇ 2 Hz and 100 Hz).
• the viscoelastic curve is established using a Bohlin Gemini rheometer constraint imposed in plane-plane geometry. The temperature was regulated by a Peltier plan and an anti-evaporation device (water-filled solvent trap for measurements at 25 ° C). Oscillation measurements were made between 10-2 Hz and 100 Hz at 1% strain with a streaked P40 plane. The deformation of 1% was determined by performing an amplitude scan to lie in the linear domain.
• G ' corresponds to the conservation module reflecting the elastic response and the solid character of the sample; we also measure G "which corresponds to the loss modulus reflecting the viscous response and the liquid character of the sample.
• aqueous phase according to the invention is such that it has:
• the firmness corresponds to the maximum force measured during the compression phase (descent) of the probe in the product. In general, the maximum force is reached when the product breaks. That is why firmness can be called breaking force;
• breaking work in g s) less than 1500 g. s, preferably less than 1000 g. s, or even less than 800 g. s, and better still less than 500 g. s, especially between 100 g. s and 1500 g. s, and better between 250 g. s and 1100 g. s.
• a deformation work (g s) of less than 1500 g. s, preferably less than 1000 g. s, or even less than 500 g. s, and better still less than 300 g. s, especially between 10 g and 1500 g. s, and better between 100 g. s and 1300 gs
• a tack less than or equal to 25 g, preferably less than 15 g, and better still less than 10 g, especially between 1 g and 25 g, and better still between 5 g and 15 g.
• the adhesive corresponds to the maximum force measured during the withdrawal phase (ascent) of the product probe.
• the solid spheres (S1) are solid.
• the solid spheres (S1) comprise at least one, preferably a single, internal drop of a liquid composition at room temperature, as described below.
• a composition according to the invention is prepared by implementing a "non-microfluidic" process, namely by simple emulsification.
• the size of the spheres (S1) is then less than 500 ⁇ , or even less than 200 ⁇ .
• the size of the spheres (S1) is between 0.5 ⁇ and 50 ⁇ , preferably between 1 ⁇ and 20 ⁇ .
• the composition according to the invention comprises spheres (S1) of reduced size, especially with respect to spheres (S1) obtained by a microfluidic process. This small size will have an effect on the texture. Indeed, a composition according to the invention, formed of spheres (S1) finely dispersed, has improved lubricity qualities.
• a composition according to the invention is prepared by implementing a "microfluidic" method, in particular as described below.
• the size of the spheres (S1) is macroscopic, that is to say visible to the naked eye, in particular greater than 500 ⁇ , even greater than 1000 ⁇ .
• the size of the spheres (S1) is between 500 and 3,000 ⁇ , preferably between 1,000 ⁇ and 2,000 ⁇ .
• compositions comprising such spheres (S1) of size greater than 500 ⁇ are stable.
• size refers to the diameter, in particular the mean diameter, of the drops.
• a composition according to the invention of the gloss / eye gloss type, manufactured with a microfluidic process has lower viscosities than for conventional liquid gloss / eye glosses (i.e. to remain compatible with the microfluidic device). Nevertheless, this lower viscosity does not affect the behavior over time on the keratin materials, in particular the lips or the eyelids, of a composition according to the invention, and in particular does not affect the brightness hold. On the contrary, it improves the comfort / sliding application and finesse of the film on keratin materials.
• compositions of the invention have a new sensoriality different from a microfluidic dispersion stabilized with a coacervate (as described for example in the application WO 2012/120043).
• the spheres (S1) which can be defined as gelled water beads, have a mechanical strength, more particularly a crush resistance, more important; the user therefore really feels the balls crush on application, without prejudice to the homogeneity of the composition to the application.
• a composition according to the invention can be described as a macroscopically inhomogeneous mixture of two immiscible phases, in particular when the spheres (S1) are macroscopic.
• each of the phases can be individualized, in particular with the naked eye.
• the spheres (S1) are translucent, or even transparent.
• the spheres (S1) are monodisperse.
• the term "monodisperse spheres” means that the population of spheres according to the invention has a uniform size distribution.
• the spheres (S1) of a composition according to the invention are devoid of bark or membrane, in particular of polymeric membrane or formed by interfacial polymerization.
• the spheres (S1) of a dispersion according to the invention are not stabilized using a coacervate (anionic polymer type (carbomer) / cationic polymer (amodimethicone)).
• the contact between the aqueous phase and the fatty phase is direct, without prejudice to the stability of the composition according to the invention.
• the aqueous phase of the compositions of the invention comprises water, in a content of preferably between 5% and 99% by weight relative to the weight of aqueous phase.
• water suitable for the invention may also be natural spring water or floral water.
• the aqueous phase represents at least 1%, in particular at least 3%, preferably at least 5%, and more preferably at least 10%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the content by weight of aqueous phase is between 1% and 30%, especially between 1.5% and 20%, in particular between 2% and 10%, preferably between 3% and 7%, and preferably between 4% and 6%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
• the spheres (S1) of a dispersion according to the invention are stabilized by means of a coacervate at the interface between the aqueous phase and the fatty phase, in which case the aqueous phase comprises at least minus a first precursor polymer of the coacervate (anionic type polymer) and the fatty phase comprises at least one second coacervate precursor polymer (cationic type polymer).
• the formation of the coacervate between these two polymers is generally caused by a modification of the conditions of the reaction medium (temperature, pH, reagent concentration, etc.).
• the coacervation reaction results from the neutralization of these two charged polymers of opposite polarities and allows the formation of a membrane structure by electrostatic interactions between the anionic polymer and the cationic polymer.
• the membrane thus formed around each sphere typically forms a bark which completely encapsulates the heart of the sphere and thus isolates the heart of the sphere from the fatty phase.
• anionic polymer (or “anionic type polymer”) a polymer having chemical functions of anionic type. We can also speak of anionic polyelectrolyte.
• anionic type polymer there may be mentioned any polymer formed by the polymerization of monomers at least a part of which carries anionic type chemical functions, such as carboxylic acid functions.
• Such monomers are, for example, acrylic acid, maleic acid, or any ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing at least one carboxylic acid function. It may for example be anionic polymer comprising monomeric units comprising at least one chemical function of carboxylic acid type.
• the anionic polymer is hydrophilic, i.e., soluble or dispersible in water.
• anionic polymer suitable for carrying out the invention include copolymers of acrylic acid or maleic acid and other monomers, such as acrylamide, alkyl acrylates, alkyl acrylates, C 5 -C 8 alkyl acrylates oC -C 30 alkyl methacrylates C12-C22, methoxypolyethylene glycol methacrylates, acrylates hydroxyester, the crosspolym Guatemala acrylates, and mixtures thereof.
• the anionic polymer according to the invention is a crosslinked carbomer or copolymer acrylates / Ci-30 alkyl acrylate.
• the anionic polymer according to the invention is a carbomer.
• the term “carbomer” means an optionally crosslinked homopolymer resulting from the polymerization of acrylic acid. It is therefore a poly (acrylic acid) optionally crosslinked.
• carbomers of the invention mention may be made of those sold under the trade names Tego ® Carbomer 340FD from Evonik, Carbopol ® 981 from Lubrizol, Carbopol ETD 2050 from Lubrizol, or Carbopol Ultrez 10 from Lubrizol.
• the term "carbomer” or “carbomer” or “Carbopol ®” an acrylic acid polymer of high molecular weight cross-linked with allyl sucrose or allyl ethers of pentaerythritol (Handbook of Pharmaceutical Excipients, 5 th Edition, plll).
• it is the Carbopol ® 10, Carbopol ® 934, Carbopol ® 934P, Carbopol 940 ®, Carbopol ® 941, Carbopol ® 71 G, carbopol ® 980, Carbopol ® 971 P or Carbopol ® 974P.
• the viscosity of said carbomer is between 4,000 and 60,000 cP at 0.5% w / w.
• the carbomers have other names: polyacrylic acids, carboxyvinyl polymers or carboxy polyethylenes.
• the anionic polymer can also be a crosslinked copolymer acrylates / Cio-alkyl acrylate (INCI name: acrylates / Cio-30 alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer) as defined above.
• compositions according to the invention may comprise a carbomer and a crosslinked copolymer acrylates / Cio-30 alkyl acrylate.
• cationic polymer (or “cationic type polymer”) a polymer having chemical functions of cationic type. We can also speak of cationic polyelectrolyte.
• the cationic polymer is lipophilic or fat-soluble.
• a cationic polymer there may be mentioned any polymer formed by the polymerization of monomers at least a part of which carries chemical functions of cationic type, such as primary, secondary or tertiary amine functions.
• amodimethicone derived from a silicone polymer (polydimethylsiloxane, also called dimethicone), modified by primary amine functions and secondary amine.
• amodimethicone derivatives for example copolymers of amodimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, and more generally linear or branched silicone polymers containing amine functions.
• the bis-isobutyl copolymer PEG-14 / amodimethicone, Bis (C 13-15 Alkoxy) PG-Amodimethicone, Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone and bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone may be mentioned.
• polysaccharide-type polymers comprising amine functions, such as chitosan or guar gum derivatives (hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride).
• polypeptide-type polymers comprising amine functions, such as polylysine.
• polyethyleneimine polymers comprising amine functions, such as linear or branched polyethyleneimine.
• the cationic polymer corresponds to the following formula
• R 2 and R 3 independently of each other, represent OH or CH 3 ;
• R 4 represents a -CH 2 - group or a -X-NH- group in which X is a divalent C 3 or C 4 alkylene radical;
• x is an integer between 10 and 5000, preferably between 30 and 1000, and more preferably between 80 and 300;
• y is an integer between 2 and 1000, preferably between 4 and 100, and more preferably between 5 and 20;
• z is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 0 and 1, and more preferably equal to 1.
• R 4 when R 4 is -X-NH-, X is attached to the silicon atom.
• R 1, R 2 and R 3 are preferably CH 3 .
• R 4 is preferably - (CH 2 ) 3 -NH-.
• a composition according to the invention further comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent in the aqueous phase, and therefore in the spheres (S1).
• the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from the group consisting of natural texturing agents, semi-synthetic texturing agents, synthetic texturing agents, and mixtures thereof.
• hydrophilic texture agents that is to say those which are soluble or dispersible in water, and therefore present in the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention, mention may be made of:
• natural texture agents chosen in particular from algae extracts, plant exudates, seed extracts, exudates from microorganisms, such as alcasealan (INCI: Alcaligenes Polysaccharides), and other natural agents,
• synthetic texturizing agents chosen in particular from homopolymers of (meth) acrylic acid or one of their esters, (meth) acrylic acid copolymers or one of their esters, copolymers of AMPS (2-acrylamido); 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid), associative polymers,
• the other texturing agents especially chosen from polyethylene glycols (sold under the name Carbowax), clays, silicas such as those sold under the names Aerosil® 90/130/150/200/300/380), glycerin, and
• the term "associative polymer” means any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion; the associative polymers according to the present invention may be anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric; these include those described in FR 2 999 921. Preferably, these are amphiphilic and anionic associative polymers and amphiphilic and nonionic associative polymers as described below.
• algae extracts represented by agar-agar, carrageenans, alginates, and mixtures thereof.
• seed extracts represented by locust bean gum, guar gum, tara gum, konjac gum, pectins, and mixtures thereof.
• natural texturing agents mention may also be made of other natural agents represented, in particular, by gelatin, collagen, keratin, vegetable proteins, in particular wheat and / or soy, polymers of chitin or anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric chitosan, hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof, especially sodium hyaluronate such as that sold under the names HA Oligo, SC Hyaluronic Acid or HyaCare, and mixtures thereof.
• natural agents represented, in particular, by gelatin, collagen, keratin, vegetable proteins, in particular wheat and / or soy, polymers of chitin or anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric chitosan, hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof, especially sodium hyaluronate such as that sold under the names HA Oligo, SC Hyaluronic Acid or HyaCare, and mixtures thereof.
• the cellulose derivatives are in particular represented by carboxymethylcellulose (CMC) such as that sold under the names Aqualon series or Walocel series; hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC) such as that sold under the name Klucel HPC; hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) such as that sold under the names Cellosize series or Natrosol 250 series; hydroxyethyl methylcellulose such as that marketed under the name Walocel series; hydroxypropyl methylcellulose such as that sold under the names Methocel E / F / J / K series from Dow Chemicals, VIVAPHARM CS 152 HV, Benecel E4M, E10M, K100M; methylcellulose such as that sold under the name Methocel A series; ethylcellulose such as that marketed under the name Ethocel series; microcrystalline cellulose such as that marketed under the name Avicel PH series; alkylhydroxyethylcellulose such as cetylhydroxyethy
• the modified starches are derivatives of starch resulting from the modification of the native starch by etherification, esterification or crosslinking, such as in particular sodium carboxymethyl starch such as that marketed under the names COVAGEL, VIVASTAR® CS 352 SV or VIVASTAR CS 302 SV; hydroxypropyl starch such as that sold under the names Zeina B860, Amaze NI, Amycol SQ, Penon PKW; hydroxypropyl starch phosphate such as that marketed under the names Structure ZEA / style / XL; and their mixtures.
• etherification, esterification or crosslinking such as in particular sodium carboxymethyl starch such as that marketed under the names COVAGEL, VIVASTAR® CS 352 SV or VIVASTAR CS 302 SV
• hydroxypropyl starch such as that sold under the names Zeina B860, Amaze NI, Amycol SQ, Penon PKW
• homopolymers of (meth) acrylic acid or an ester thereof are in particular represented by sodium polyacrylates such as those sold under the names Cosmedia SP, Covacryl MV60 / MV40, Cosmedia SPL or Luvigel EM; crosslinked (or carbomeric) (meth) acrylic acid polymers, such as those sold under the names Carbopol 900 series, Carbopol 2984/5984, Carbopol Ultrez 10/30, in particular Carbopole Ultrez 21, Tego Carbomer 134/140 / 141, Aqupec HV- 505, HV-505HC, HV-504, HV-501, HV-505E, HV-504E, HV-501 E, HV-505ED, Ashland 941 carbomer, or Ashland 981 carbomer; and their mixtures.
• the anionic polymers as mentioned above, in particular the carbomers defined above.
• the AMPS copolymers are in particular represented by AMPS NH 4 / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Aristoflex AVC (INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer); AMPS NH 4 / Beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, such as the product sold under the name Aristoflex HMB (INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer); AMPS Na / Vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Aristoflex AVS (INCI: Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer); AMPS NH4 / 2-Carboxyethylacrylate copolymers, such as that sold under the name Aristoflex TAC (INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyl
• the amphiphilic and anionic associative polymers are especially represented by the acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer such as that marketed under the name Aculyn 22; acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer such as that sold under the name Aculyn 28; C 30 -3 8 Olefin / Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolymer such as that sold under the name Performa V 1608; Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Crosspolymer such as that sold under the name Aculyn 88; Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 such as that sold under the name Sepimax Zen; Acrylates / C 10 -C 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymers such as those mentioned above; and their mixtures.
• the amphiphilic and nonionic associative polymers are especially represented by PEG-150 distearate such as that marketed under the name Emanon 3299V; the PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer such as the one sold under the name Aculyn 44; PEG-150 / stearyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer such as that sold under the name Aculyn 46; acrylates / ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer such as that marketed under the name Structure 3001 by AkzoNobel Personal Care; polyurethane polyethers such as those sold under the names Rheolate FX 1100, Rheolate 205, Rheolate 208/204/212, Elfacos T1212, Acrysol RM 184 / RM 2020, Adeka Nol GT-700 / GT-730; polyurethane-39 such as that sold under the name Luvigel Star; cetyl hydroxyethy
• clays in particular represented by bentonite such as that sold under the names Veegum, Veegum HS or Vanatural; montmorillonite, hectorite such as that marketed under the names Bentone series or Hectone series; kaolinite, and mixtures thereof.
• composition according to the invention may comprise a single hydrophilic gelling agent as defined above, or a mixture of at least two hydrophilic gelling agents as defined above.
• a composition according to the invention comprises a sufficient amount of gelling agent (s) hydrophilic (s), including heat-sensitive (s), to prevent / limit the coalescence phenomena of the spheres (S1) between them.
• the content of gelling agent (s) hydrophilic (s) is between 0.1% and 15%, preferably between 0.3% and 10%, preferably between 0.5% and 5%, especially between 0.8% and 3%, in particular between 1% and 2%, by weight relative to the weight of the aqueous phase of said composition.
• the content of gelling agent (s) hydrophilic (s) is between 0.5% and 0.9% by weight relative to the weight of aqueous phase of said composition.
• This range is particularly advantageous in that it provides a fair compromise between good mechanical strength of the spheres (S1) and crushing application; this property confers a particular sensoriality to the application since the user really feels the spheres (S1) crashing to the application.
• the aqueous phase comprises at least two hydrophilic gelling agents, at least one being a heat-sensitive hydrophilic gelling agent.
• hydrophilic hydrophilic gelling agent designates a hydrophilic gelling agent making it possible to increase the viscosity of the aqueous phase of the spheres (S1) without said gelling agent, this viscosity evolving reversibly as a function of their temperature. .
• thermosensitive in the sense of the present invention is a compound having a melting point above which it is in a liquid form, but below which it is in a solid form and therefore contributes to increasing the viscosity of the phase comprising it.
• hydrophilic heat-sensitive gelling agents include, for example, gelatin, pectin, agar-agar, and mixtures thereof.
• the agar-agar is used as a heat-sensitive hydrophilic gelling agent.
• a preferred composition according to the invention therefore comprises agar-agar as a gelling agent.
• the agar-agar is particularly advantageous in that it has a good cold transparency as well as a good "speed of gelling / crushing on application" ratio.
• the content of heat-sensitive hydrophilic gelling agent (s), in particular of agar-agar, is between 0.1% and 15%, preferably between 0.3%. % and 10%, preferably between 0.5% and 5%, especially between 0.8% and 3%, in particular between 1% and 2% or even between 0.3% and 0.8%, by weight relative to aqueous phase weight of said composition.
• compositions according to the invention comprise a fatty phase (or continuous phase) in which the aforementioned solid spheres (S1) are dispersed.
• the fatty phase according to the invention may represent at least 70%, in particular at least 80%, preferably at least 90%, and more preferably at least 95%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the fatty phase content is between 70% and 99%, preferably between 70% and 95%, especially between 75% and 90%, and preferably between 80% and 85%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
• the fatty phase is suspensive with respect to the spheres (S1).
• the spheres (S1) remain suspended in the fatty phase over a prolonged period of time, for example greater than 1 month, preferably greater than 3 months, and better still greater than 6 months.
• this variant is advantageous in that it makes it possible to prevent / limit the coalescence phenomena of the spheres (S1) between them and / or the creaming of the spheres (S1) in the fatty phase.
• the fatty phase is non-suspensive with respect to the spheres (S1).
• a separation of the spheres (S1) with respect to the fatty phase is observed over a period of time of less than 1 month, preferably less than 15 days, better less than 1 week, or even less than 1 day.
• Such a composition according to the invention is then described as a bi-phasic composition. This separation can result from sedimentation or creaming of the spheres (S1) in the fatty phase.
• This separation can be immediate after mixing a composition according to the invention.
• the separation between the spheres (S1) and the fat phase can take place over a period of time between 5 and 60 seconds.
• This separation of the two phases of a composition according to the invention can be carried out over a longer period of time after mixing a composition according to the invention.
• the separation between the spheres (S1) and the fatty phase can take place over a period of time greater than 1 minute, in particular between 1 minute and 300 minutes.
• the separation of the spheres (S1) relative to the aqueous continuous phase is by sedimentation of the spheres (S1), given their hydrophilic nature, and therefore their density generally greater than that of the fatty phase.
• the separation of the spheres (S1) with respect to the fatty phase can also be done by creaming the spheres (S1), in which case the skilled person must make a selection of oil (s) so that the spheres (S1) have a density lower than that of the fatty phase.
• oil s
• selections are general knowledge of the skilled person. For example, one can choose a fluorosilicone type oil (known to have a density greater than 1).
• These properties of suspensivity / non suspensivity of the spheres (S1) in the fatty phase are in particular conditioned by the nature and / or the content of oil (s) and / or lipophilic agent (s) having suspensive power.
• the fatty phase is shear thinning or pseudoplastic at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
• Rheofluidification refers to the fact, for a fluid, of "becoming more fluid" when the flow velocity increases. Specifically, this refers to the fact that the dynamic viscosity decreases as the shear rate increases. Shear thinning or shear thinning is also referred to as pseudo-plasticity.
• the fatty phase is thixotropic at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
• a composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic agent having suspensive power.
• lipophilic agent having suspensive power is meant an agent capable of increasing the viscosity of the fatty phase so as to improve the character (or power) suspensive of said fatty phase, in particular with respect to the spheres (S1 ).
• This lipophilic agent having suspensive power thus participates in stabilizing the composition according to the invention, and in particular in preventing and / or preventing the coalescence of the spheres (S1) between them and / or their creaming or sedimentation in the fatty phase.
• It may also comprise a mixture of at least two lipophilic agents having suspensive power.
• the lipophilic agent having a suspending power according to the invention is chosen from lipophilic gelling agents well known to those skilled in the art, and this is detailed below.
• the lipophilic gelling agent having suspensive power is chosen from organic or inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, polymeric or molecular; solid fatty substances at room temperature and pressure; and their mixtures.
• lipophilic gelling agent is intended to mean a compound capable of gelling the fatty phase of the compositions according to the invention.
• the gelling agent is liposoluble or lipodispersible.
• the lipophilic gelling agent is advantageously chosen from particulate gelling agents; organopolysiloxane elastomers; semi-crystalline polymers; polyacrylates; sugar / polysaccharide esters, in particular dextrin esters, inulin esters, glycerol esters; hydrogen-bonded polymers; hydrocarbon block copolymers and mixtures thereof.
• the particulate gelling agent used in the composition according to the invention is in the form of particles, preferably spherical.
• polar, polar and apolar waxes, butters, modified clays, silicas such as pyrogenic silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels may be particularly mentioned.
• wax considered in the context of the present invention, is generally meant a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C), reversible solid state / liquid change, having a higher melting point or equal to 30 ° C up to 200 ° C and in particular up to 120 ° C.
• the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the ISO 1 1357-3 standard; 1999.
• the melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments.
• the measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured.
• the melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
• the waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid, at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
• the waxes within the meaning of the invention, may be those used generally in the cosmetic or dermatological fields. They can in particular be polar or apolar, silicone hydrocarbon and / or fluorinated, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin.
• apolar wax within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C as defined below, a is equal to 0 (J / cm 3 ) 1/2 .
• solubility parameters in the three-dimensional solubility space of Hansen are described in the article by CM Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters” J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).
• the apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon waxes consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free of heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P.
• the apolar waxes are chosen from microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, and mixtures thereof.
• ozokerite mention may be made of Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P.
• microcrystalline waxes that may be used, mention may be made of Multiwax W 445® marketed by Sonneborn, Microwax HW® and Base Wax 30540® 25 marketed by Paramelt, and Cerewax ® N ° 3 marketed by the company Baerlocher.
• microwaves which can be used in the compositions according to the invention as apolar wax
• polyethylene such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 30 220®, 220L® and 2505® by the company Micro Powders.
• polyethylene wax mention may be made of Performalene 500-L Polyethylene and Performalene 400 Polyethylene marketed by New Phase Technologies, Asensa® SC 21 1 sold by the company Honeywell.
• polar wax within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C 5 a is different from 0 (J / cm 3 ) 1/2 .
• polar wax is understood to mean a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen atom. , nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.
• the polar waxes may especially be hydrocarbon, fluorinated or silicone.
• the polar waxes may be hydrocarbon-based.
• hydrocarbon wax is meant a wax formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen, nitrogen and not containing a silicon or fluorine atom. . It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.
• ester wax is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one ester function.
• alcohol wax is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.
• ester wax
• ester waxes such as those chosen from:
• waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having fatty chains, linear or branched, at C-8-C32 for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, sunflower oil hydrogenated, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol; v) beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylene lanolin wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax , Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, wax Hydrogenated Jojoba, sunflower wax, lemon wax, olive wax, berry wax.
• the polar wax may be an alcohol wax.
• alcohol wax is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.
• alcohol wax mention may be made, for example, of the wax C30-50 Alcohols Performacol 0 550 Alcohol sold by New Phase Technologie, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.
• silicone waxes which may advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably at a low melting point.
• silicone wax is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups.
• the silicone waxes that may be used may also be alkyl or alkoxydimethicones, as well as (C 2 -C 60 ) alkyldimethicones, in particular (C 30 -C 45 ) alkyldimethicones, such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE -Bayer Silicones or C 5 30 -4 Alkyldiméthylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane under the name SW-C30 Resin Wax 8005® marketed by Dow Corning.
• polyethylene waxes, jojoba wax, and silicone waxes may be mentioned as particularly advantageous waxes.
• waxes with a melting point greater than 45 ° C. comprising one or more C 4 o C 7 o ester compounds and not comprising a C 20 -C 39 ester compound will be used.
• ester compound is meant any organic molecule comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, comprising at least one ester function of formula - COOR where R represents a hydrocarbon radical, in particular a linear and saturated alkyl radical.
• wax not comprising a C 2 -C 39 ester compound is meant any wax containing less than 1% by weight of C 20 -C 39 ester compound, preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the weight of wax or even free of C20-C39 ester compound.
• the waxes according to the invention can also be used in the form of a mixture of waxes.
• the ester content comprising from 40 to 70 carbon atoms preferably ranges from 20 to 100% by weight and preferably from 20 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of wax (es).
• CRYSTALWAX (INCI: Hydroxystearic Acid (and) Synthetic Wax (and) Triisostearin (and) Polybutene (and) Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate) marketed by the company Sensient Cosmetic Technologies.
• the term “butter” (also referred to as “pasty fatty substance”) is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising at the temperature of 25 ° C. a liquid fraction and a fraction. solid, and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).
• the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound may be less than 25 ° C.
• the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 25 ° C. may represent from 9% to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 25 ° C is preferably between 15% and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.
• the one or more butters have an end-of-melting temperature of less than 60 ° C.
• the one or more butters have a hardness less than or equal to 6 MPa.
• the butters or pasty fatty substances have in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, visible by X-ray observations.
• the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the ISO 1 1357-3 standard; 1999.
• the melting point of a paste or a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by the company TA Instruments .
• DSC differential scanning calorimeter
• sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows: A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance (or butter) or wax previously heated at 80 ° C. and taken with magnetic stirring using an equally heated spatula is placed in an airtight aluminum capsule or crucible. Two tests are carried out to ensure the reproducibility of the results.
• the measurements are carried out on the calorimeter mentioned above.
• the oven is subjected to a nitrogen sweep.
• the cooling is ensured by the RCS 90 heat exchanger.
• the sample is then subjected to the following protocol, first being brought to a temperature of 20 ° C and then subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from 20 ° C to 80 ° C. ° C, at the heating rate of 5 ° C / minute, then cooled from 80 ° C to -80 ° C at a cooling rate of 5 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from - 80 ° C to 80 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute.
• the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the butter sample is measured as a function of temperature.
• the melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
• the end of melting temperature corresponds to the temperature at which 95% of the sample melted.
• the liquid fraction by weight of the butter (or pasty fatty substance) at 25 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 25 ° C. on the enthalpy of melting of the butter.
• the enthalpy of melting of the butter or pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state.
• the butter is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in crystalline solid form.
• the butter is said to be in the liquid state when the entirety of its mass is in liquid form.
• the melting enthalpy of the butter is equal to the integral of the whole of the melting curve obtained with the aid of the calorimeter evoked, with a rise in temperature of 5 ° C. or 10 ° C. per minute, according to the standard ISO 1,1357-3: 1999.
• the melting enthalpy of the butter is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.
• the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 25 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state it has at 25 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
• the liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32 ° C preferably represents from 30% to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably from 50% to 100%, more preferably from 60% to 100% by weight of the compound.
• the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C.
• the liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. on the enthalpy of melting of the butter.
• the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C.
• the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows: the composition according to the invention or the butter is placed in a mold 75 mm in diameter which is filled to about 75% of its height.
• the mold is placed in the Vôtsch VC0018 programmable oven where it is first heated to 80 ° C for 60 minutes, then cooled from 80 ° C to 0 ° C at a cooling rate of 5 ° C / minute, then left at the stabilized temperature of 0 ° C for 60 minutes, then subjected to a temperature rise from 0 ° C to 20 ° C, at a rate of heat of 5 ° C / minute, then left at the stabilized temperature of 20 ° C for 180 minutes.
• the compression force measurement is performed with Swantech TA / TX2i texturometer.
• the mobile used is chosen according to the texture: - mobile cylindrical steel 2 mm in diameter for very rigid raw materials; - Cylindrical 12 mm diameter steel for rigid raw materials.
• the measurement comprises 3 steps: a first step after automatic detection of the surface of the sample where the mobile moves at the measurement speed of 0.1 mm / s, and enters the composition according to the invention or the butter at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm, the software records the value of the maximum force reached; a second so-called relaxation stage where the mobile stays at this position for one second and where the force is noted after 1 second of relaxation; finally a third so-called withdrawal step where the mobile returns to its initial position at the speed of 1 mm / s and the energy of withdrawal of the probe (negative force) is recorded.
• the value of the hardness measured during the first step corresponds to the maximum compression force measured in Newton divided by the surface of the texturometer cylinder expressed in mm 2 in contact with the butter or composition according to the invention.
• the value of hardness obtained is expressed in megapascals or MPa.
• the pasty fatty substance or butter may be chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin.
• a pasty fatty substance can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin.
• lanolin and its derivatives such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolines,
• polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds such as polydimethylsiloxanes of high molecular weight, polydimethylsiloxanes with side chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, especially stearyl dimethicones,
• linear or branched oligomers homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C 8 -C 3 o alkyl group,
• the particular butter or butters are of plant origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Fats and Fatty Oils", A. Thomas, published on 15/06/2000, D01 : 10.1002 / 14356007.a10_173, point 13.2.2.2 Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters).
• C10-C18 triglycerides having at a temperature of 25 ° C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction, the butter of shea butter, Shea Butter Nilotica (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter, (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or Tengkawang tallow) (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipé butter, Madhuca butter or Bassia Madhuca longifolia, mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M.
• C10-C18 triglycerides having at a temperature of 25 ° C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction
• the butter of shea butter Shea Butter Nilotica (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter, (Butyrospermum parkii), Born
• the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic clay.
• the clays can be natural or synthetic and are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkylammonium salt such as a C10-C22 ammonium chloride, for example di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride. They may be chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.
• the lipophilic clays used are hectorites modified with a C 10 to C 22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, that marketed under the name of Bentone 38V® by Elementis or the bentone gel in isododecane sold under the name Bentone Gel ISD V® (Isododecane 87% / Disteardimonium Hectorite 10% / Propylene carbonate 3%) by Elementis.
• the fatty phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, as gelling agent, a fumed silica or silica airgel particles.
• the hydrophobic treated silica treated surface It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.
• hydrophobic groups can be:
• Silicas thus treated are called “Silica silylate” according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by Cabot.
• silica dimethyl silylate is marketed under the references Aerosil R972®, and Aerosil R974® by Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by Cabot.
• the oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, as gelling agent, at least silica aerogel particles.
• Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. They are generally synthesized by sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then usually dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being the supercritical CO 2 . This type of drying avoids the contraction of the pores and the material.
• the sol-gel process and the various dryings are described in detail in Brinker CJ, and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990.
• the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention exhibit a specific surface per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 / g and better still from 600 to 800 m 2 / g, and a size expressed in average diameter in terms of volume (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 ⁇ , better still from 1 to 1000 ⁇ , preferably from 1 to 100 ⁇ , in particular from 1 to 30 ⁇ , more preferably from 5 to 25 ⁇ , better from 5 to 20 ⁇ and even better from 5 to 15 ⁇ .
• SM surface per unit mass
• D [0.5] size expressed in average diameter in terms of volume
• the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 ⁇ , preferably from 5 to 25 ⁇ . , better from 5 to 20 ⁇ and even better from 5 to 15 ⁇ .
• the specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called the BET method (Brunauer - Emmet - Teller) described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D).
• the BET surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
• the silica airgel particle sizes can be measured by static light scattering using a MasterSizer 2000 commercial particle size analyzer from Malvern.
• the data is processed on the basis of Mie scattering theory.
• This theory which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" diameter of particles. This theory is particularly described in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
• the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 / g.
• the silica airgel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a packed density p ranging from 0.02 g / cm 3 to 0.10 g / cm 3 , preferably from 0.03 g / cm 3 to 0, 08 g / cm 3 , in particular ranging from 0.05 g / cm 3 to 0.08 g / cm 3 .
• this density can be assessed according to the following protocol, called the packed density: 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated test tube; then the specimen is placed on the STAV 2003 machine from Stampf Volumeter; the test piece is then subjected to a series of 2,500 settlements (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); then the final volume Vf of compacted powder is measured directly on the test piece.
• the packed density is determined by the ratio m / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm 3 and m in g).
• the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m 2 / cm 3 , preferably from 10 to 50 m 2 / cm 3 and better from 15 to 40 m 2 / cm 3 .
• the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity measured at Wet Point ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and better still from 8 to 18 ml / g. at 12 ml / g.
• the absorption capacity measured at Wet Point, and denoted by Wp corresponds to the amount of oil that must be added to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste. It is measured according to the so-called Wet Point method or method for determining the setting of powder oil described in standard NF T 30-022.
• the aerogels used according to the present invention are aerogels of hydrophobic silica, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).
• hydrophobic silica any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example by halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, in order to functionalize the OH groups by Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.
• silylating agents for example by halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes
• silylating agents for example by halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, in order to functionalize the OH groups by Si-Rn silyl groups, for
• hydrophobic silica aerogels examples include, for example, the airgel marketed under the name VM-2260 or VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, of which the particles have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass of 600 to 800 m 2 / g. Mention may also be made of the aerogels marketed by Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203, ENOVA Aerogel MT 1100, ENOVA Aerogel MT 1200. The airgel marketed under the trade name VM will preferably be used. -2270 (INCI name Silica silylate), by Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 / g.
• the organopolysiloxane elastomer has the advantage of giving the composition according to the invention good application properties. It provides a very soft touch after application, especially advantageous for application on the skin. It can also allow an effective filling of the hollows present on the keratin materials.
• organopolysiloxane elastomer or "silicone elastomer” is meant a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties and especially the consistency of a sponge or a flexible sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is able to recover its original shape after stretching. It is more particularly a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer.
• the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and diorganopolysiloxane having silicon-bonded ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence of platinum catalyst; or by condensation-crosslinking dehydrogenation reaction between a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen, especially in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, electron beam.
• the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by addition reaction crosslinking (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst, as for example described in application EP-A-295886.
• the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst.
• the compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer and the crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of the compound (A) with the compound (B) in the presence of the catalyst (C).
• the compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule.
• the compound (A) may have any molecular structure, in particular a linear chain or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.
• the compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular to be well miscible with the compound (B).
• the organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of the compound (A) can be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.
• alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl
• substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl
• aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl
• substituted aryl groups such as
• the compound (A) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane trimethylsiloxy endblock copolymers and cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers.
• the compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C 2 -C 4 ); the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule.
• the organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched chain, straight chain, cyclic or network structure but the linear chain structure is preferred.
• the compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state.
• the compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25 ° C.
• the other organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in the compound (B) can be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.
• alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl
• substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl
• aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl
• substituted aryl groups such
• the organopolysiloxane (B) can be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy endings, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated methylvinylsiloxane, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers endings trimethylsiloxy, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) -polys
• the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst.
• the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of the compound (A) is at least 5.
• the compound (A) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in the compound (A) and the total amount of all the groups to Ethylenic unsaturation in the compound (B) is in the range of 1.5: 1 to 20: 1.
• Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acidketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum on support.
• the catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A). and B).
• the elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer.
• non-emulsifying defines organopolysiloxane elastomers that do not contain a hydrophilic chain, and in particular that do not contain any motifs.
• polyoxyalkylene especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene
• polyglyceryl unit especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene
• the composition comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer devoid of polyoxyalkylene units and a polyglyceryl unit.
• the silicone elastomer used in the present invention is selected from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name) .
• the organopolysiloxane elastomer particles may be conveyed in the form of a gel consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles.
• Non-emulsifying elastomers are described in EP 242 219, EP 285 886, EP 765 656 and JP-A-61-194009.
• the silicone elastomer is generally in the form of a gel, a paste or a powder, but advantageously in the form of a gel in which the silicone elastomer is dispersed in a linear silicone oil (dimethicone ) or cyclic (eg cyclopentasiloxane), advantageously in a linear silicone oil.
• a linear silicone oil dimethicone
• cyclic eg cyclopentasiloxane
• non-emulsifying elastomers As non-emulsifying elastomers, it is more particularly possible to use those sold under the names "KSG-6", “KSG-15”, “KSG-16”, “KSG-18”, “KSG-41”, “KSG-42” , “KSG-43”, “KSG-44”, by the company Shin Etsu, “DC9040”, “DC9041”, by the company Dow Corning, "SFE 839" by the company General Electric.
• a silicone elastomer gel dispersed in a silicone oil chosen from a non-exhaustive list comprising cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicones, dimethylsiloxanes, methyl trimethicone, phenylmethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, and cyclomethicone, is used.
• a linear silicone oil chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicones with a viscosity at 25 ° C. ranging from 1 to 500 ° C. at 25 ° C., optionally modified with aliphatic groups, optionally fluorinated, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups.
• Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer such as USG-105 and USG-107A from Shin Etsu; “DC9506” and “DC9701” from Dow Corning; Dimethicone / Dimethicone Vinyl Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone, such as "KSG-6" and “KSG-16” from Shin Etsu;
• Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer such as "DC9040", “DC9045” and “DC5930” from Dow Corning;
• Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer such as "DC9041" from Dow Corning;
• Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer such as Dow Corning EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend from Dow Corning (Polydimethylsiloxane mixture cross-linked with hexadiene / polydimethyl siloxane (2 cSt));
• Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer such as "DC9041" from Dow Corning;
• Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer such as Dow Corning EL-9240 silicone elastomer blend from Dow Corning (Hexadiene / polydimethyl silane crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane mixture (2 cSt)); and
• DIMETHICONE (and) VINYLDIMETHYL / TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE / DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, BELSIL REG 1 100 from Wacker Silicone.
• the organopolysiloxane elastomer particles may also be used in powder form, mention may be made in particular of the powders sold under the names "Dow Corning 9505 Powder” and “Dow Corning 9506 Powder” by the company Dow Corning. These powders are intended INCI name: dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, as well as “Dow Corning® 9701 Cosmetic Powder” (INCI: Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Silica).
• the organopolysiloxane powder may also be coated with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in US Pat. No. 5,538,793.
• silsesquioxane resin as described, for example, in US Pat. No. 5,538,793.
• elastomer powders are sold under the names "KSP-100", “KSP-101” and “KSP102”. ",” KSP-103 ",” KSP-104 ",” KSP-105 "by Shin Etsu, and are INCI name: vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane Crosspolymer.
• organopolysiloxane powders coated with silsesquioxane resin that can advantageously be used according to the invention, there may be mentioned especially the reference “KSP-100" from Shin Etsu.
• organopolysiloxane elastomer type As preferred lipophilic gelling agent of the organopolysiloxane elastomer type, there may be mentioned in particular cross-linked organopolysiloxane elastomers chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer ( INCI name), Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name), DIMETHICONE (and) VINYLDIMETHYIJTRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE / DIMETH ICONE
• CROSSPOLYMER and in particular DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, KSG16 from Shin Etsu or DIMETHICONE (and) VINYLDIMETHYL / TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE / DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, BELSIL REG 1 100 from Wacker silicone.
• composition according to the invention may comprise at least one semicrystalline polymer.
• the semi-crystalline polymer has an organic structure, and a melting temperature greater than or equal to 30 ° C.
• the term "semi-crystalline polymer” is intended to mean polymers comprising a crystallizable part and an amorphous part and having a first-order reversible phase change temperature, in particular melting (solid-liquid transition). .
• the crystallizable portion is either a side chain (or pendant chain) or a sequence in the backbone.
• this crystallizable block is of a different chemical nature from that of the amorphous sequences; in this case, the semicrystalline polymer is a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type.
• the semi-crystalline polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer.
• the melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably less than 150 ° C.
• the melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 30 ° C and less than 100 ° C. More preferably, the melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is greater than or equal to 30 ° C and less than 70 ° C.
• the Semi-crystalline polymers according to the invention are solids at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), whose melting temperature is greater than or equal to 30 ° C.
• the melting point values correspond to the melting point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the Mettler company, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute (The melting point considered is the point corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the thermogram).
• DSC differential scanning calorimeter
• the semi-crystalline polymer (s) according to the invention preferably have a melting point higher than the temperature of the keratinous support intended to receive said composition, in particular the skin, the lips or the eyelids.
• the semi-crystalline polymers are advantageously soluble in the fatty phase, especially at least 1% by weight, at a temperature above their melting point.
• the sequences of the polymers are amorphous.
• chain or crystallizable block is meant, in the sense of the invention, a chain or sequence which, if it were alone, would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state, reversibly, depending on whether it is above or below below the melting temperature.
• a chain within the meaning of the invention is a group of atoms, during or lateral to the backbone of the polymer.
• a sequence is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, a group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer.
• the polymer backbone of the semi-crystalline polymers is soluble in the fatty phase at a temperature above their melting point.
• the crystallizable sequences or chains of the semi-crystalline polymers represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and better still at least 40%.
• Crystallizable side-chain semi-crystalline polymers are homo- or co-polymers.
• the semicrystalline polymers of the invention with crystallizable sequences are copolymers, sequential or multisequenced. They can be obtained by reactive (or ethylenic) double bond monomer polymerization or by polycondensation. When the polymers of the invention are crystallizable side chain polymers, the latter are advantageously in random or statistical form.
• the semi-crystalline polymers of the invention are of synthetic origin.
• the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from:
• homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers bearing crystallizable hydrophobic side chain (s),
• the semicrystalline polymers that may be used in the invention may be chosen in particular from:
• polycondensates and in particular of polyester, aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic type,
• homopolymers or copolymers carrying at least one crystallizable side chain and homopolymers bearing in the backbone at least one crystallizable block such as those described in document US Pat. No. 5,156,91, such as -C 30 ) alkyl polyacrylates corresponding to Intelimer® from Landec described in the brochure "Intelimere polymers", Landec 1 P22 (Rev. 4-97) and for example the product Intelimer® IPA 13-1 from Landec, which is a stearyl polyacrylate with a molecular weight of about 145,000 and a melting temperature of 49 ° C,
• acrylate / silicone copolymers such as copolymers of acrylic acid and polydimethylsiloxane grafted stearyl acrylate, polydimethylsiloxane grafted stearyl methacrylate copolymers, and polydimethylsiloxane grafted stearyl methacrylate and acrylic acid copolymers, the copolymers of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, ethyl-2-hexyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts.
• KP-561 CFA name: acrylates / dimethicone
• KP-541 CFA name: acrylates / dimethicone and isopropyl alcohol
• KP-545 CFA name acrylates / dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane
• the gelling agent is chosen from polyacrylates resulting from the polymerization of C 10 -C 30 alkyl acrylate (s), preferably of C 14 alkyl acrylate (s). C 2 4, and even more preferably C 18 -C 22 alkyl acrylate (s) .
• the polyacrylates are polymers of acrylic acid esterified with a fatty alcohol whose saturated carbon chain comprises from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 24 carbon atoms, or a mixture of said fatty alcohols .
• the fatty alcohol comprises 18 carbon atoms or 22 carbon atoms.
• the polyacrylates there may be mentioned more particularly stearyl polyacrylate, behenyl polyacrylate.
• the gelling agent is stearyl polyacrylate or behenyl polyacrylate.
• Interlimer® ICI name: Poly Cio-C 30 alkyl acrylate
• the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one dextrin ester.
• the composition preferably comprises at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid, preferably C 12 to C 24 , in particular C 14 to C 18 , or mixtures thereof.
• the dextrin ester is a C 12 -C 18 , in particular C 14 -C 18, fatty acid dextrin ester.
• the dextrin ester is selected from dextrin myristate and / or dextrin palmitate, and mixtures thereof.
• the dextrin ester is dextrin myristate, such as that sold especially under the name Rheopearl MKL-2 by Chiba Flour Milling.
• the dextrin ester is dextrin palmitate. This may for example be chosen from those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® or Rheopearl® KL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.
• composition according to the invention may comprise at least one ester of inulin and of fatty acid.
• esters of inulin and fatty acid sold under the names Rheopearl® ISK2 or Rheopearl® ISL2 (INCI name: Stearoyl Inulin) by the company Miyoshi Europe
• composition according to the invention may comprise at least one ester of glycerol and of fatty acid (s), in particular a mono-, di- or triester of glycerol and of fatty acid (s).
• ester of glycerol and fatty acid (s) may be used alone or as a mixture.
• it may be a glycerol ester and a fatty acid or a glycerol ester and a mixture of fatty acids.
• the fatty acid is selected from the group consisting of behenic acid, isooctadecanoic acid, stearic acid, eicosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.
• esters of glycerol and of fatty acid (s) marketed under the names Nomcort HK-G (INCI name: Glyceryl behenate / eicosadioate) and Nomcort SG (INCI name: Glyceryl tribehenate, isostearate, eicosadioate), by the Nisshin Oillio company.
• polyamides and in particular hydrocarbon polyamides and silicone polyamides may be mentioned in particular.
• the oily phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polyamide chosen from hydrocarbon polyamides, silicone polyamides, and mixtures thereof.
• polyamide means a compound having at least 2 amide repeating units, preferably at least 3 amide repeating units and more preferably 10 amide repeating units.
• hydrocarbon-based polyamide is meant a polyamide formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.
• this polyamide of the composition according to the invention has a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000 g / mol, especially ranging from 1,000 to 100,000 g / mol, in particular less than 50,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 1 000 to 50,000 g / mol, and more preferably from 1,000 to 30,000 g / mol, preferably from 2,000 to 20,000 g / mol, and more preferably from 2,000 to 10,000 g / mol.
• This polyamide is insoluble in water, especially at 25 ° C.
• the polyamide used is a polyamide of formula (I):
• X represents a group -N (R 1 ) 2 or a group -ORi in which R 1 is a linear or branched C 8 -C 2 alkyl radical, which may be identical to or different from one another, R 2 is a C 28 -C 42 diacid dimer residue, R 3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is 2 to 5; and their mixtures.
• the polyamide used is an amide-terminated polyamide of formula (Ia):
• X represents a group -N (R 1 ) 2 in which R 1 is a linear or branched C 8 -C 22 alkyl radical, which may be identical or different from one another, R 2 is a dimer residue diacid C28-C42, R3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is between 2 and 5; and their mixtures.
• the fatty phase of a composition according to the invention may furthermore additionally comprise, in this case, at least one additional polyamide of formula (Ib): -CR; ⁇ C- NH -R-7 NH-C-R "-cx
• X represents a group -ORi in which R 1 is a linear or branched C 8 to C 2 2, preferably C 1 to C 2 2, alkyl radical, which may be identical to or different from each other, R 2 is a diacid dimer residue C 28 - C 42 , R 3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is between 2 and 5, such as commercial products sold by Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100 or Uniclear 80 V, Uniclear 100 V and Uniclear 100 VG, whose INCI name is "ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer".
• the silicone polyamides are preferably solid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
• the silicone polyamides may preferentially be polymers comprising at least one unit of formula III) or (IV):
• R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 which may be identical or different, represent a group chosen from:
• X which are identical or different, represent alkylene di-yl, linear or branched Ci to C 30, possibly containing in its chain one or more oxygen atoms and / or nitrogen,
• Y is a divalent linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene, saturated or unsaturated, d to C 50 group , which may comprise one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and or substitute one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxy, C 3 -C 8 cycloalkyl, C 1 -C 40 alkyl, C 5 -C 10 aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with 1 to 3 alkyl of -C 3 hydroxyalkyl d -C 3 alkyl and amino d -C 6, or
• Y represents a group corresponding to the formula
• T represents a trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C 3 to C 24 optionally substituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain, and which may contain one or more atoms selected from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom selected from N, P and Al, and
• R 8 represents a linear or branched C 1 -C 5 alkyl group, or a polyorganosiloxane chain, which may comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulphonamide groups which may or may not be bonded; to another polymer chain,
• N is an integer from 2 to 500, preferably from 2 to 200 and m is an integer from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and more preferably from 6 to 200.
• the silicone polyamide comprises at least one unit of formula (III) in which m is from 50 to 200, in particular from 75 to 150, and preferably of the order of 100.
• R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 independently represent a linear or branched C 1 to C 40 alkyl group, preferably a CH 3 , C 2 H 5 , n C 3 H 7 or isopropyl group in the formula formula (III).
• a silicone polymer which can be used, mention may be made of one of the silicone polyamides obtained according to Examples 1 to 3 of US Pat. No. 5,981,680. Mention may be made of the compounds marketed by Dow Corning under the name DC 2-8179. (DP 100) and DC 2-8178 (DP 15) whose INCI name is "nylon61 / dimethicone copolymers" ie nylon-61 / dimethicone copolymers.
• the silicone polymers and / or copolymers advantageously have a transition temperature of the solid state in the liquid state ranging from 45 ° C. to 190 ° C. Preferably, they have a solid state transition temperature in the liquid state of from 70 ° C to 130 ° C and more preferably from 80 ° C to 105 ° C.
• hydrocarbon block copolymers also called block copolymers, are chosen from those capable of thickening or gelling the fatty phase of the composition.
• amorphous polymer is meant a polymer that does not have a crystalline form.
• the polymeric gelling agent is preferably also film-forming, that is to say that it is capable of forming a film when it is applied to the skin and / or the lips.
• the hydrocarbon block copolymer may in particular be a diblock, triblock, multiblock, radial or star copolymer, or mixtures thereof. Such hydrocarbon block copolymers are described in application US-A-2002/005562 and in US-A-5 221 534.
• the copolymer may have at least one block whose glass transition temperature is preferably less than 20. ° C, preferably less than or equal to 0 ° C, preferably less than or equal to -20 ° C, more preferably less than or equal to -40 ° C.
• the glass transition temperature of said block may be between -150 ° C. and 20 ° C., in particular between -100 ° C. and 0 ° C.
• the hydrocarbon block copolymer present in the composition according to the invention is an amorphous copolymer formed by polymerization of an olefin.
• the olefin may in particular be an ethylenically unsaturated elastomeric monomer.
• ethylenic carbide monomers especially having one or two ethylenic unsaturations, having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethylene, propylene, butadiene, isoprene or pentadiene. .
• the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and olefin.
• block copolymers comprising at least one styrene block and at least one block comprising units selected from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, butylene, isoprene or a mixture thereof.
• the hydrocarbon block copolymer is hydrogenated to reduce the residual ethylenic unsaturations after polymerization of the monomers.
• the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is a copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and with ethylene / C 3 -C 4 alkylene blocks.
• the composition according to the invention comprises at least one diblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, preferably chosen from styrene-ethylene / propylene copolymers, styrene / butadiene copolymers and styrene-ethylene copolymers. / butylene.
• Diblock polymers are in particular sold under the name Kraton® G1701 E by Kraton Polymers.
• a diblock copolymer such as those described above, in particular a diblock copolymer of styrene / propylene, or a mixture of diblock, as described above, is used as polymeric gelling agent.
• a composition according to the invention comprises, as lipophilic gelling agent, at least one hydrocarbon-based block copolymer, preferably a copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and with ethylene / C 3 -C 4 alkylene blocks, more preferably selected from a diblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, such as a styrene / propylene copolymer, a styrene-ethylene / butadiene copolymer
• EstoGel M (INCI: CASTOR OIL / IPDI COPOLYMER & CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE) marketed by the company Polymer Expert.
• the content of lipophilic agent (s) having suspensive power is between 0.5% and 99.50%, preferably between 1.5% and 70%, especially between 2.5% and 60%, and preferably between 3% and 50%, or even between 1% and 8%, and more preferably between 2.5% and 6%, by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase, or even with respect to the total weight of the composition .
• the fatty phase of a composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one oil.
• the fatty phase may therefore comprise a single oil or a mixture of several oils.
• the fatty phase according to the invention may therefore comprise at least one, at least two, at least three, at least four, at least five or more of oil (s) as described above. after.
• oil means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.).
• oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made for example of:
• hydrocarbon oils of plant origin in particular as described below;
• hydrocarbon oils of animal origin such as perhydrosqualene and squalane
• esters and synthetic ethers in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R 1 COOR 2 and RiOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a C 8 to C 29 fatty acid, and R 2 represents a branched or unbranched C 3 -C 30 hydrocarbon-based chain, such as, for example, purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2- palmitate, hexyl, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptan
• silicone oils for example volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethicones) comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones
• fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), or alternatively octyldodecanol;
• the oil is chosen from esters and synthetic ethers, preferably esters of formula R 1 COOR 2 , in which R 1 represents the residue of a C 8 to C 2 fatty acid. and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, C 3 to C 30 .
• the oil is chosen from fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms.
• the oil is chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched alkanes, C 8 -C 6 (also known as isoparaffins or isoalkanes), for instance isododecane (also known as 2-méthylundécane) isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar ® or Permethyls® ®.
• hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched alkanes, C 8 -C 6 (also known as isoparaffins or isoalkanes), for instance isododecane (also known as 2-méthylundécane) isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar ® or Permethyls® ®.
• the fatty phase of the compositions of the invention comprises an oil chosen from silicone oils.
• the fatty phase does not include other oils other than silicone oils.
• the oils present in the fatty phase are silicone oils.
• a composition according to the invention comprises at least 1% by weight of oil (s) relative to the total weight of said composition.
• a composition according to the invention in particular the fatty phase of the compositions of the invention, does not comprise polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), and preferably does not comprise silicone oil.
• PDMS polydimethylsiloxane
• composition according to the invention does not comprise vegetable oil.
• the fatty phase of the compositions according to the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon oil of plant origin.
• vegetable oils that may be mentioned include liquid triglycerides of C 4 -C 10 fatty acids, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin and seed oils.
• caprylic / Capric Triglyceride such as those marketed by the company Stearineries Dubois or those available under the trade names "Miglyol 810", “Miglyol 812” and “Miglyol 818” by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.
• the vegetable oil is chosen from those rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids.
• unsaturated fatty acid means a fatty acid comprising at least one double bond. It is more particularly long chain fatty acids, that is to say can have more than 14 carbon atoms.
• the unsaturated fatty acids may be in acid form, or in salt form, for example their calcium salt, or in the form of derivatives, especially fatty acid ester (s).
• the continuous fat phase comprises at least one non-volatile oil.
• non-volatile is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.02 mm Hg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10 -3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).
• non-volatile oils chosen from silicone oils, fluorinated oils or their mixtures, and more particularly from non-volatile, non-phenylated silicone oils; phenylated nonvolatile silicone oils, with or without at least one dimethicone fragment; the oils fluorinated; or mixtures thereof, or non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils, in particular chosen from non-volatile oils comprising at most one free or non-free hydroxyl group, or from non-volatile oils comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups, or non-volatile hydrocarbon oils apolar.
• non-volatile, non-phenyl silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyldimethicones; vinylmethylmethicones; and also silicones modified with aliphatic groups and / or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups.
• nonvolatile polar hydrocarbon oils there may be mentioned ester oils as described above.
• non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils mention may be made of linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as:
• Parleam ® sold by NIPPON OIL FATS
• Viseal 20000 sold or manufactured by the SYNTEAL company
• the PARLEAM LITE marketed by NOF Corporation
• decene / butene copolymers polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, in particular Indopol L-14,
• the oil is chosen from the group consisting of isononyl isononanoate, dimethicone, polybutene, hydrogenated or not, diisostearyl malate, and mixtures thereof.
• the oil content (s) is between 0.5% and 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase of said composition.
• the oil content (s) is greater than 70%, especially greater than 80%, or even greater than 90%, by weight relative to the weight of the fatty phase.
• the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention remains perfectly transparent, this transparency being unapproachable with conventional gloss / lipstick. in the form of inverse emulsions.
• This is also an advantage over an emulsion with an anionic polymer co-polymer (carbomer) / cationic polymer (amodimethicone) obtained via a microfluidic process, as described in particular in the application WO 2012/120043, where the amodimethicone tends to "disturb »The oily phase.
• the aqueous phase and / or the fatty phase may further comprise at least one additional compound other than hydrophilic gelling agents, lipophilic agents having suspensive power and oils, or even anionic and cationic polymers, mentioned above. .
• a composition according to the invention in particular the aqueous phase and / or the fatty phase of said composition, can thus additionally comprise, as additional compound, powders, flakes, coloring agents, in particular chosen from water-soluble or non-fat-soluble coloring agents, whether or not organic or inorganic, pigments, optical effect materials, liquid crystals, and mixtures thereof, particulate agents insoluble in the fatty phase, emulsifying and / or non-emulsifying silicone elastomers , especially as described in the application EP 2 353 577, preservatives, humectants, stabilizers, chelators, emollients, agents modifiers selected from pH, osmotic strength agents and / or refractive index modifiers etc. or any conventional cosmetic additive, and mixtures thereof.
• coloring agents in particular chosen from water-soluble or non-fat-soluble coloring agents, whether or not organic or inorganic, pigments, optical effect materials, liquid crystals, and mixtures thereof, particulate agents insoluble in the fatty phase,
• a composition according to the invention in particular the aqueous phase and / or the fatty phase of said composition, may furthermore comprise at least one active agent, in particular a biological or a cosmetic active agent, preferably chosen from moisturizing agents, healing agents, depigmenting agents, UV filters, desquamating agents, antioxidants, active agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromoleculars, dermodecontracting agents, antiperspirants, soothing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, age, perfuming agents and their mixtures.
• active agent in particular a biological or a cosmetic active agent, preferably chosen from moisturizing agents, healing agents, depigmenting agents, UV filters, desquamating agents, antioxidants, active agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromoleculars, dermodecontracting agents, antiperspirants, soothing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, age, perfuming agents and their mixtures.
• active agent in particular a biological or a cosmetic active agent, preferably chosen from moisturizing agents
• the fatty phase may further comprise at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer, in particular as described in application FR 3025100 or WO 2016/030842, and for example the polymer sold under the names FA 4002 ID (TIB 4 -202) or FA 4001 CM (TIB 4-230) by Dow Corning.
• the presence of such a polymer makes it possible to improve the resistance over time, in particular the gloss resistance over time, and if necessary while maintaining a viscosity of the fatty phase compatible with the microfluidic device.
• it makes it possible to reduce the migration phenomena of the composition applied to a keratin material, in particular the skin or the eyelids.
• the content by weight of hydrophobic polymer (s) film (s) is between 0.1% and 40%, in particular between 0.2% and 20%, preferably between 0, 5% and 15%, based on the weight of the fatty phase.
• a composition according to the invention does not comprise a hydrophilic film-forming polymer, in particular such as described in FR 3 025 100, and / or tackifying resin, in particular such as described in FR 3 025 099.
• any additional compound (s) and / or active (s) mentioned above and / or their respective amounts so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention do not are not or not substantially impaired by the addition envisaged.
• the nature and / or the amount of the additional compound (s) and / or active (s) depends (s) on the aqueous nature or fat of the phase considered of the composition according to the invention.
• a composition according to the invention comprises at least one coloring agent.
• the aqueous phase and / or the fatty phase comprises / comprise at least one coloring agent.
• the fatty phase of a composition according to the invention comprises at least one coloring agent
• said composition has a compromise "transparency / coloring lips" advantageous. Indeed, in the presence of such a coloring agent, the dispersion is colored but has a transparency such that the spheres (S1) remain perfectly visible. On application, the coloration of the lips is real, which may seem surprising, given the transparency of the composition before application.
• coloring agent or “coloring agent” is intended to mean a material intended to give the composition a coloration, and in particular a durable coloration.
• coloring is meant for example white, black, and any other color of the visible spectrum, such as blue, red, yellow ... optionally in iridescent, shiny or any other known forms.
• coloring agent in the sense of the present invention, a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when it is formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium.
• a composition according to the invention comprises at least one coloring agent chosen from water-soluble or non-fat-soluble, organic or inorganic, liposoluble or non-soluble dyes, optical effect materials, liquid crystals, and mixtures thereof.
• water-soluble coloring agent is intended to mean any generally organic compound, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible and colorable solvents.
• water-soluble the ability of a compound to solubilize in water, measured at 25 ° C., at a concentration of at least 0.1 g / l (obtaining a macroscopically isotropic and transparent solution, colored or not). This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g / l.
• a coloring agent according to the invention is preferably chosen from pigments, dyes, liquid crystals and their mixtures.
• the coloring agent is chosen from dyes.
• the dyes are typically essentially soluble in their environment of use, as defined in particular in DIN 55944 (December 201 1).
• the coloring agent according to the invention is chosen from optically effective materials.
• the particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from:
• particles comprising an organic or inorganic substrate, monomaterial or multimaterial, at least partially covered by at least one metal-reflecting layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and
• metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te. Se and their mixtures or alloys.
• Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof are preferred metals.
• Metal derivatives means compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulphides.
• the coloring agent according to the invention is chosen from liquid crystals.
• liquid crystal or “liquid crystal type dye” means liquid crystals dyeing the composition, that is to say providing a coloration to said composition as specified above.
• the liquid crystals are typically characterized by an intermediate state between the crystalline phase, where there is a three-dimensional positional order and the liquid phase where no order exists.
• the color effect of the fat phase can be achieved by the implementation of naturally colored oil (s), such as Rocou oil, Lipocarotte, or gremil extract from the dyers.
• s naturally colored oil
• the aqueous phase of a composition of the invention comprises between 0.0001% and 15% by weight of agent (s) dye (s), preferably dye (s), relative to weight of the aqueous phase.
• the fatty phase of a composition of the invention comprises between 0.0001% and 15% by weight of agent (s) dye (s), preferably dye (s), relative to weight of the fatty phase.
• a composition according to the invention comprises less than 2%, in particular less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, and in particular less than 0.1% by weight of pigments relative to the total weight of said composition.
• a composition according to the invention in particular the fatty phase, is devoid of pigments.
• the aqueous phase and / or the fatty phase comprises at least one coloring agent, in particular at least one dye
• said aqueous phase and / or said fatty phase preferably at least the fatty phase additionally comprises UV sunscreens, so as to prevent / avoid changes in unwanted hues.
• the aqueous phase may further comprise glycerine.
• a composition of the invention comprises at least 2%, preferably at least 5%, in particular at least 10%, in particular at least 20%, or at least 30%, or even at least 40%, or at least less than 50% by weight of glycerin relative to the weight of the aqueous phase.
• the limits of the formulation are therefore pushed back with this type of raw material without altering the finish on the keratin material.
• the aqueous phase comprises an intermediate phase, the intermediate phase being placed in contact with the fatty phase, and at least one internal phase disposed in the intermediate phase.
• Such an embodiment corresponds to spheres with a "drop-in-drop" architecture.
• the internal phase is disposed completely away from the fatty phase, the intermediate phase being interposed between the or each internal phase and the fatty phase.
• the intermediate phase is therefore characterized by the aqueous phase as described above.
• the inner phase may be hydrophilic or lipophilic in nature.
• the inner phase can be solid or liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
• the internal phase may further comprise at least one gelling agent and / or any additional compound / active agent, especially as described above.
• the aqueous phase may be in the form of a direct emulsion (oil-in-water), the said emulsion comprising a continuous aqueous phase and a dispersed fatty phase in the form of drops (G 2), the size of the drops (G 2) being necessarily less than the size of the spheres (S1).
• the size of the drops (G2) is less than 500 ⁇ , preferably less than 400 ⁇ , in particular less than 300 ⁇ , better than 200 ⁇ , in particular less than 100 ⁇ , or even less than 20 ⁇ , and better than 10 ⁇ .
• the size of the drops (G2) is between 0.1 ⁇ and 200 ⁇ , preferably between 0.25 ⁇ and 100 ⁇ , in particular between 0.5 ⁇ and 50 ⁇ , preferably between 1 ⁇ and 20 ⁇ . , and better between 1 ⁇ and 10 ⁇ , or even between 3 ⁇ and 5 ⁇ ;
• the fatty phase may be in the form of an inverse emulsion (water-in-oil), the said emulsion comprising a continuous fatty phase and an aqueous phase dispersed in the form of drops (G3), the size of the drops (G3); preferably being microscopic.
• the droplet size (G3) is less than 500 ⁇ , preferably less than 400 ⁇ , in particular less than 300 ⁇ , better than 200 ⁇ , in particular less than 100 ⁇ , or even less than 20 ⁇ , and better than 10 ⁇ .
• the size of the drops (G3) is between 0.1 ⁇ and 200 ⁇ , preferably between 0.25 ⁇ and 100 ⁇ , in particular between 0.5 ⁇ and 50 ⁇ , preferably between 1 ⁇ and 20 ⁇ . , and better between 1 ⁇ and 10 ⁇ , or even between 3 ⁇ and 5 ⁇ .
• the drops (G2) and / or (G3) comprise a bark formed of at least one anionic polymer, in particular a carbomer, and at least one cationic polymer, in particular an amodimethicone, said anionic and cationic polymers being as defined above.
• the drops (G2) and / or (G3) are not macroscopic, and are therefore microscopic, that is to say, not visible to the naked eye.
• the drops (G2) and / or (G3) are different and independent of the spheres (S1).
• drops (G2) and / or (G3) of reduced size allow to have an effect on the texture.
• a composition according to the invention comprising such drops (G2) and / or (G3) finely dispersed has yet improved lubricity qualities.
• a composition according to the invention comprising drops (G2) and / or (G3) spread easily on a keratinous material, in particular the lips. This texture is particularly advantageous and surprising to the skilled person.
• a composition according to the invention is mainly dedicated to the makeup and / or care of keratin materials, in particular the lips and / or the eyelids.
• Those skilled in the art will be able to make the adjustments in terms of the nature and / or quantity of the raw materials to focus the composition according to the invention on the makeup or care of keratin materials, in particular with regard to the choice of oils that may be used. implemented in the fatty phase.
• compositions according to the invention can be prepared by various methods.
• a composition according to the invention is advantageously produced in a single step in that there is no prior step of forming the spheres (S1) before mixing with the suspensive fatty phase, which is advantageous on the industrial level.
• compositions according to the invention have the advantage of being able to be prepared according to a simple "non-microfluidic" method, namely by simple emulsification.
• a simple emulsion an aqueous solution and a fat solution (or oily) are prepared separately.
• microfluidic in particular as described in international applications WO 2012/120043 or WO 2015/055748, and in particular in "jet jet” mode (in English: jetting).
• jet jet in English: jetting
• drip in English: dripping
• an internal fluid IF
• an external fluid OF
• the fluid (IF) comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent and water, and additionally, optionally, at least one additional component as mentioned above.
• the fluid (OF) comprises at least one lipophilic agent having suspensive power, preferably at least one oil, and in addition, optionally, at least one additional component as mentioned above.
• the process for preparing a composition according to the invention comprises a step of contacting a fluid (IF) and a fluid (OF) as defined above.
• the step of contacting the fluids (IF) and (OF) must be with an aqueous phase and / or a fatty phase previously heated to a temperature assuring them a liquid character sufficient for:
• the preparation method an emulsion according to the invention may require the implementation of at least fluid (IF) and / or (OF) at a temperature of 40 ° C to 150 ° C.
• the fluid (IF) and / or (OF) can be heated at a temperature of from 40 ° C to 150 ° C.
• the microfluidic device as such is advantageously heated to a temperature of 40 ° C to 150 ° C.
• compositions according to the invention can in particular be used in the cosmetics field.
• They may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, at least one physiologically acceptable medium.
• physiologically acceptable medium is meant a medium which is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to keratin materials, in particular the skin, the lips, the nails, the eyelashes or the eyebrows, and preferably the skin.
• the physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged.
• the physiologically acceptable medium is the aqueous continuous phase as described above.
• the cosmetic compositions are used for the makeup and / or care of keratin materials, especially the skin.
• the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be skincare, sun protection, cleaning (makeup removal), hygiene or make-up products for the skin.
• compositions are therefore intended to be applied especially to the skin.
• the present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition mentioned above, as a makeup, hygiene, cleaning and / or care product for keratinous substances, in particular the skin.
• the compositions of the invention are in the form of a foundation, a makeup remover, a facial and / or body and / or hair care, anti age, a sunscreen, a oily skin care, a whitening care, a moisturizer, a BB cream, tinted cream or foundation, a face and / or body cleanser , a shower gel or a shampoo.
• a care composition according to the invention can be in particular a solar composition, a care cream, a serum or a deodorant.
• compositions according to the invention may be in various forms, in particular in the form of cream, balm, lotion, serum, gel, gel-cream or mist.
• compositions according to the invention are intended to be applied to the lips or the eyelids.
• compositions according to the invention are in the form of gloss (or lip gloss), lipstick, concrete, eyeliners or eye gloss.
• the present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, in particular the lips and / or the eyelids, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin material at least one composition as defined herein. -above.
• the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, in particular the lips and / or the eyelids, comprising a step of applying to the skin at least one layer of a cosmetic composition as defined above.
• A2 is added to the mixture a) without stirring and allowed to stand for 15 minutes until hydration of B2; then, stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, c) adding A3 to the mixture b) with stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, so as to obtain aqueous NF.
• aqueous NF is added at 85 ° C. in the oily filler at 85 ° C. with stirring, and c) when the mixture b) is at 40 ° C., C is added with stirring.
• the eye gloss according to Example 1 has both a high gloss and hydration capabilities, freshness and comfort to the application particularly satisfactory. This satisfactory degree of gloss is accompanied by a good behavior over time and a feeling in terms of tackiness and curbing the acceptable application.
• composition according to Example 2 is a transparent lip gloss formulation obtained by a microfluidic method in dripping mode.
• composition according to Example 3 is a lip gloss formula for the lipids in the fatty phase and obtained by a microfluidic method in dripping mode.
• composition according to Example 4 is a lip gloss formula for the aqueous phase colored lips obtained by a microfluidic method in dripping mode.
• composition according to Example 5 is a gloss formula for the lips obtained by a microfluidic process in jetting mode.
• compositions according to Examples 2 to 5 are obtained by a microfluidic process, namely a double-wall microfluidic nozzle as described in WO2012 / 120043, the internal diameter of the outlet of the nozzle is 0.8 mm.
• the parameters are as follows:
• Dripping Dripping Dripping Jetting Dripping In addition to a new visual linked to the presence of macroscopic aqueous bubbles in the oily continuous phase and a transparency / translucency of the compositions, these lip gloss compositions have both a high gloss and hydration, freshness and comfort to the application particularly satisfactory. This degree of satisfactory gloss is accompanied by a good behavior over time without a feeling of stickiness or braking application nor braking application.
• composition according to Example 6 has an oily continuous phase with a satisfactory transparency.
• the mixture is heated (a) to 80 ° C. and, on the other hand, the A2 are heated to 80 ° C.
• Example 7 The composition according to Example 7 is obtained according to a microfluidic process, namely a double-wall microfluidic nozzle as described in WO2012 / 120043, the internal diameter of the outlet of the nozzle is 0.8 mm.
• composition according to Example 7 is in the form of a perfume concrete at room temperature (RT).
• Example 8 The composition according to Example 8 is obtained according to a microfluidic process, namely a double-skin microfluidic nozzle as described in WO 2012/120043.
• composition according to Example 8 is in the form of a serum at room temperature (RT).
• this composition In addition to a new visual linked to the presence of macroscopic aqueous bubbles in the oily continuous phase, this composition has both a texture and a satisfactory sensoriality.
• a composition according to Example 8 was also carried out without amodimethicone in the oily phase, with a visual, a texture and a satisfactory sensoriality.

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