EP3595619A1

EP3595619A1 - Compositions comprising a fatty phase and an aqueous phase in the form of solid spheres

Info

Publication number: EP3595619A1
Application number: EP18711343.6A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Laurence REHAULT; Mathieu Goutayer
Original assignee: Capsum SAS
Current assignee: Capsum SAS
Priority date: 2017-03-17
Filing date: 2018-03-16
Publication date: 2020-01-22
Also published as: WO2018167309A1; FR3063899A1; CN110636827A; US20210077362A1; FR3063899B1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising a fatty phase and an aqueous phase, said aqueous phase being substantially immiscible with the fatty phase, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, wherein: - the aqueous phase is in the form of spheres (S1) that are solid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, comprising at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, which is preferably heat-sensitive, and - the fatty phase comprises at least one lipophilic agent having a suspending capacity, which is preferably thixotropic, preferably a hydrophobic silica.

Description

COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING A FATTY PHASE AND AQUEOUS PHASE AS A SOLID SPHERE

The present invention relates to compositions, in particular cosmetic, comprising a fatty phase and an aqueous phase, said aqueous phase being in the form of solid spheres. It also relates to the cosmetic use of said compositions, especially for the makeup and / or care of keratin materials, in particular lips and / or eyelids.

A recurring problem with cosmetic compositions such gloss (or lip gloss), lipstick, eyeliners and eye gloss is their stickiness and / or their low ability to hydrate the lips or eyelids continuously. This is due to their predominantly anhydrous nature. Indeed, it is difficult to maintain the water in a stabilized form in such compositions.

Also, such conventional gloss, lipstick, eyeliners and eye gloss compositions which impart a high degree of gloss on the surface of the lips or eyelids require the presence of silicone fluids in the composition. Liquid silicones are known for their high refractive indices which provide shine. However, there is a desire to overcome the implementation of these types of silicone fluids, given their poor environmental profiles and in that they are relatively expensive.

There is therefore a need to date for new compositions, having both a high gloss and hydration capabilities, freshness and comfort to the application satisfactory, preferably devoid of silicone oils.

The object of the present invention is to provide a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, and in particular of lip gloss, lipstick, concrete, eyeliners and eye gloss, having both a high gloss and hydration, freshness and satisfactory application comfort.

The object of the present invention is also to provide a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, and in particular of gloss type, lipsticks, concretes, eyeliners and eye gloss, having a satisfactory degree of gloss while being able to impart good resistance in the skin. time with a lower tack, good hydration and a freshness and comfort to the application. The present invention also aims to provide such a composition devoid of silicone oil.

The object of the present invention is also to provide a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, and in particular of the lip gloss, lipstick, eyeliners and eye gloss type, which has an immediate hydration upon application, and which can last up to more than six hours. after the application.

The present invention also aims to provide a composition for stabilizing over time an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase without necessarily using conventional stabilization systems, for example of the membrane type, bark or coacervate, at the interface between the fatty phase and the aqueous phase.

According to a particular embodiment, the object of the present invention is also to provide a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, and in particular of gloss, lipstick, eyeliners and eye gloss, comprising a transparent or at least translucent fatty phase.

Thus, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising a fatty phase and an aqueous phase, said aqueous phase being substantially immiscible with the fatty phase, at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure, in which:

the aqueous phase is in the form of solid spheres (S1) at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, comprising at least one hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably a heat-sensitive agent, and

the fatty phase comprises at least one lipophilic agent having a suspensive, preferably thixotropic, power, preferably a hydrophobic silica.

According to the invention, an agent is said to be thixotropic if under constant stress (or velocity gradient), the apparent viscosity of the phase comprising said agent decreases over time. The physical property of thixotropy is therefore:

- left at prolonged rest, the thixotropic phase will restructure (its viscosity increases);

- Under stress sufficiently high to break the structure formed at rest, the phase can flow and deconstruct. Its viscosity decreases with the progression of destructuring.

A composition according to the invention is therefore in the form of a dispersion of spheres (S1) in the fatty phase. A composition according to the invention therefore comprises an aqueous phase in a continuous fatty phase, the aqueous phase being immiscible with the fatty phase, at ambient temperature (for example T = 25 ° C. ± 2 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760.degree. mm Hg, ie 1.013 × 10 ⁵ Pa or 1013 mbar).

It has surprisingly been found that the compositions according to the invention combine satisfactory properties in terms of gloss and withstand over time, as well as good hydration (immediate hydration), freshness and comfort on application on the skin. keratinous materials (especially less sticky and non-braking). In addition, the hydration is all the more interesting that it is immediate to the application and lasts up to more than 6 hours after application.

Thus, a composition according to the invention is a new alternative for stabilizing over time an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase without necessarily having to resort to conventional stabilization systems, for example membrane, bark, coacervate, at the interface between the fatty phase and the aqueous phase.

The stability in time of the spheres (S1) is all the more interesting and novel when they are macroscopic. When the spheres (S1) are macroscopic, a differentiating visualization is obtained, in particular in the field of cosmetic compositions such as gloss, lipstick, eyeliners and eye gloss.

According to one embodiment, at room temperature, that is to say at a temperature equal to 25 ° C ± 2 ° C, the composition according to the invention is not a macroscopically homogeneous mixture.

According to the invention, it is the combination between the hydrophilic gelling agent and the lipophilic agent having a suspending power which makes it possible to stabilize the composition according to the invention, and in particular to prevent and / or avoid the coalescence of the spheres (S1) between them and the creaming of the spheres (S1) in the fatty phase.

A composition according to the invention is preferably devoid of surfactant. They are therefore different from the usual cosmetic compositions.

A composition according to the invention is a topical and therefore non-oral composition. Preferably, a composition according to the invention is not a food composition. Preferably, a composition according to the invention is translucent, or even transparent.

The transparency or translucency property of the composition according to the invention is determined in the following way: the composition to be tested is cast in a 30ml Volga pot, the composition is left for 24 hours at room temperature and a white sheet is placed underneath. on which is traced in black felt a cross about 2mm thick. If the cross is visible to the naked eye in daylight at an observation distance of 40 cm, the composition is transparent or translucent.

This transparent or translucent appearance is very satisfactory, especially for the consumer, from an aesthetic point of view and can, therefore, be of great commercial interest.

Viscosity

The viscosity of the compositions according to the invention can vary significantly, which makes it possible to obtain varied textures.

In particular the viscosity range achievable is such that a composition according to the invention dedicated to the makeup and / or care of keratin materials, in particular lips and / or eyelids, may be a gloss, a lipstick, a eyeliners and an eye gloss.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention has a viscosity of between 1 mPa.s and 500,000 mPa.s, preferably between 10 mPa.s and 300,000 mPa.s, and better still between 1,000 mPa.s. and 100,000 mPa.s as measured at 25 ° C.

In particular, a composition according to the invention of gloss type has a viscosity of between 1,000 mPa.s and 20,000 mPa.s, preferably between 2,000 mPa.s and 15,000 mPa.s, and better still between 5,000 mPa.s .s and 10,000 mPa.s as measured at 25 ° C.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention of gloss type has a viscosity of less than 20,000 mPa.s, better still less than 15,000 mPa.s, and more particularly less than or equal to 10,000 mPa.s.

The viscosity is measured at ambient temperature, for example T = 25 ° C. ± 2 ° C. and at ambient pressure, for example 1013 mbar, by the method described below.

A Brookfield type viscometer, typically a Brookfield RVDV-E digital viscometer (spring torque of 7187.0 dyne-cm) is used, which is a rotational speed viscometer provided with a mobile (referred to as "Spindle"). A speed is imposed on the mobile in rotation and the measurement of the torque exerted on the mobile makes it possible to determine the viscosity knowing the geometry / shape parameters of the mobile used.

For example, a mobile of size No. 05 (Brookfield reference: RV5) is used. The shear rate corresponding to the measurement of the viscosity is defined by the mobile used and the speed of rotation thereof.

The viscosity measurement is carried out for 1 minute at room temperature (T = 25 ° C. ± 2 ° C.). About 150 g of solution are placed in a beaker of 250 ml volume, having a diameter of about 7 cm so that the height of the volume occupied by the 150 g of solution is sufficient to reach the dipstick marked on the surface. mobile. Then, the viscometer is started at a speed of 10 rpm and the value displayed on the screen is expected to be stable. This measurement gives the viscosity of the tested fluid, as mentioned in the context of the present invention.

Aqueous phase

According to the invention, the compositions according to the invention comprise an aqueous phase in the form of spheres (S1) which are solid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure.

As indicated above, the ambient temperature corresponds to a temperature of 25 ° C ± 2 ° C, and the atmospheric pressure to a pressure equal to 1013 mbar.

The spheres (S1) are preferably soft solids. According to the invention, the term "flexible solid" is understood to mean in particular that the spheres (S1) according to the invention do not flow under their own weight, but may be deformed by pressure, for example with a finger. Thus, their consistency is similar to that of a butter (without the bold character), with a malleable and prehensible character. The spheres (S1) can be spread easily by hand, in particular on a keratinous material, in particular the skin.

Preferably, a sphere (S1) solid flexible according to the invention meets at least one of the physicochemical criteria 1, 2. a, 2.b, 2.c and 2.d below, including at least two criteria , preferably at least three criteria, better at least four criteria, or even preferentially the five criteria 1, 2. a, 2.b, 2.c and 2.d, made on the basis of a bulk of aqueous phase used to manufacture said spheres (S1). Unless otherwise indicated, these criteria are measured at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (1 atm).

Criterion 1: the aqueous phase according to the invention has a viscoelastic curve at 25 ° C, measured between 10 ^{~ 2} Hz and 100 Hz, such that there is no point of intersection between the curves G 'and G " G 'being always strictly greater than G "(for measurements made at a frequency between 10 ^{~ 2} Hz and 100 Hz). The viscoelastic curve is established using a Bohlin Gemini rheometer constraint imposed in plane-plane geometry. The temperature was regulated by a Peltier plan and an anti-evaporation device (water-filled solvent trap for measurements at 25 ° C). Oscillation measurements were made between 10-2 Hz and 100 Hz at 1% strain with a streaked P40 plane. The deformation of 1% was determined by performing an amplitude scan to lie in the linear domain.

We measure G 'which corresponds to the conservation module reflecting the elastic response and the solid character of the sample; we also measure G "which corresponds to the loss modulus reflecting the viscous response and the liquid character of the sample.

Criteria 2.a to 2.d: the aqueous phase according to the invention is such that it has:

2.a) a firmness (in g) of less than 400 g, preferably less than 300 g, or even less than 200 g, in particular between 10 g and 400 g, and better still between 100 g and 300 g. The firmness corresponds to the maximum force measured during the compression phase (descent) of the probe in the product. In general, the maximum force is reached when the product breaks. That is why firmness can be called breaking force;

2.b) breaking work (in g s) less than 1500 g. s, preferably less than 1000 g. s, or even less than 800 g. s, and better still less than 500 g. s, especially between 100 g. s and 1500 g. s, and better between 250 g. s and 1100 g. s. The work of rupture corresponds to the area under the curve Force = f (time) between the moment when the probe touches the surface of the product and the moment when the maximum firmness is measured;

2.c) a deformation work (g s) of less than 1500 g. s, preferably less than 1000 g. s, or even less than 500 g. s, and better still less than 300 g. s, especially between 10 g and 1500 g. s, and better between 100 g. s and 1300 gs The work of deformation is the area under the curve Force = f (time) between the moment when the maximum firmness is reached and the moment when the probe is removed from the product; and or

2.d) a tack (g) less than or equal to 25 g, preferably less than 15 g, and better still less than 10 g, especially between 1 g and 25 g, and better still between 5 g and 15 g. The adhesive corresponds to the maximum force measured during the withdrawal phase (ascent) of the product probe.

The measurements of firmness, work of rupture, work of deformation and stickiness were carried out with a texturometer TAXT Microstable System with the following parameters:

- procedure: Teflon cylindrical probe in the shape of a finger (P / 0.5HS), - 10 mm penetration,

- Speed 1 mm / s,

- Trigger force = 2g, and

- Measurement carried out in 30mL perfume jars at 20 ° C.

According to one embodiment, the solid spheres (S1) are solid.

According to another embodiment, the solid spheres (S1) comprise at least one, preferably a single, internal drop of a liquid composition at room temperature, as described below.

According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention is prepared by implementing a "non-microfluidic" process, namely by simple emulsification. The size of the spheres (S1) is then less than 500 μηι, or even less than 200 μηι. Preferably, the size of the spheres (S1) is between 0.5 μηι and 50 μηι, preferably between 1 μηι and 20 μηι.

According to this embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises spheres (S1) of reduced size, especially with respect to spheres (S1) obtained by a microfluidic process. This small size will have an effect on the texture. Indeed, a composition according to the invention, formed of spheres (S1) finely dispersed, has improved lubricity qualities.

According to another embodiment, a composition according to the invention is prepared by implementing a "microfluidic" method, in particular as described below. According to this embodiment, the size of the spheres (S1) is macroscopic, that is to say visible to the naked eye, in particular greater than 500 μηι, even greater than 1000 μηι. Preferably, according to this embodiment, the size of the spheres (S1) is between 500 and 3,000 μηι, preferably between 1,000 μηι and 2,000 μπι.

As such, it was not obvious that the compositions comprising such spheres (S1) of size greater than 500 μηι are stable.

In the context of the present invention, the term "size" refers to the diameter, in particular the mean diameter, of the drops.

A composition according to the invention of the gloss / eye gloss type, manufactured with a microfluidic process, has lower viscosities than for conventional liquid gloss / eye glosses (i.e. to remain compatible with the microfluidic device). Nevertheless, this lower viscosity does not affect the behavior over time on the keratin materials, in particular the lips or the eyelids, of a composition according to the invention, and in particular does not affect the brightness hold. On the contrary, it improves the comfort / sliding application and finesse of the film on keratin materials.

In addition, the compositions of the invention have a new sensoriality different from a microfluidic dispersion stabilized with a coacervate (as described for example in the application WO 2012/120043). Indeed, the spheres (S1), which can be defined as gelled water beads, have a mechanical strength, more particularly a crush resistance, more important; the user therefore really feels the balls crush on application, without prejudice to the homogeneity of the composition to the application.

A composition according to the invention can be described as a macroscopically inhomogeneous mixture of two immiscible phases, in particular when the spheres (S1) are macroscopic. In other words, in a composition according to the invention, each of the phases can be individualized, in particular with the naked eye.

Preferably, the spheres (S1) are translucent, or even transparent.

Preferably, the spheres (S1) are monodisperse. In the context of the present description, the term "monodisperse spheres" means that the population of spheres according to the invention has a uniform size distribution. In view of the above, the spheres (S1) of a composition according to the invention are devoid of bark or membrane, in particular of polymeric membrane or formed by interfacial polymerization. In particular, the spheres (S1) of a dispersion according to the invention are not stabilized using a coacervate (anionic polymer type (carbomer) / cationic polymer (amodimethicone)).

In other words, the contact between the aqueous phase and the fatty phase is direct, without prejudice to the stability of the composition according to the invention.

The aqueous phase of the compositions of the invention comprises water, in a content of preferably between 5% and 99% by weight relative to the weight of aqueous phase.

In addition to distilled or deionized water, water suitable for the invention may also be natural spring water or floral water.

According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase represents at least 1%, in particular at least 3%, preferably at least 5%, and more preferably at least 10%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the content by weight of aqueous phase is between 1% and 30%, especially between 1.5% and 20%, in particular between 2% and 10%, preferably between 3% and 7%, and preferably between 4% and 6%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the spheres (S1) of a dispersion according to the invention are stabilized by means of a coacervate at the interface between the aqueous phase and the fatty phase, in which case the aqueous phase comprises at least minus a first precursor polymer of the coacervate (anionic type polymer) and the fatty phase comprises at least one second coacervate precursor polymer (cationic type polymer).

The formation of the coacervate between these two polymers is generally caused by a modification of the conditions of the reaction medium (temperature, pH, reagent concentration, etc.). The coacervation reaction results from the neutralization of these two charged polymers of opposite polarities and allows the formation of a membrane structure by electrostatic interactions between the anionic polymer and the cationic polymer. The membrane thus formed around each sphere typically forms a bark which completely encapsulates the heart of the sphere and thus isolates the heart of the sphere from the fatty phase. In the context of the present description, the term "anionic polymer" (or "anionic type polymer") a polymer having chemical functions of anionic type. We can also speak of anionic polyelectrolyte.

As an example of anionic type polymer, there may be mentioned any polymer formed by the polymerization of monomers at least a part of which carries anionic type chemical functions, such as carboxylic acid functions. Such monomers are, for example, acrylic acid, maleic acid, or any ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing at least one carboxylic acid function. It may for example be anionic polymer comprising monomeric units comprising at least one chemical function of carboxylic acid type.

Preferably, the anionic polymer is hydrophilic, i.e., soluble or dispersible in water.

Examples of anionic polymer suitable for carrying out the invention include copolymers of acrylic acid or maleic acid and other monomers, such as acrylamide, alkyl acrylates, alkyl acrylates, C ₅ -C ₈ alkyl acrylates oC -C ₃₀ alkyl methacrylates C12-C22, methoxypolyethylene glycol methacrylates, acrylates hydroxyester, the crosspolymères acrylates, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the anionic polymer according to the invention is a crosslinked carbomer or copolymer acrylates / Ci-30 alkyl acrylate. Preferably, the anionic polymer according to the invention is a carbomer.

In the context of the invention, and unless otherwise stated, the term "carbomer" means an optionally crosslinked homopolymer resulting from the polymerization of acrylic acid. It is therefore a poly (acrylic acid) optionally crosslinked.

Among the carbomers of the invention, mention may be made of those sold under the trade names Tego ^® Carbomer 340FD from Evonik, Carbopol ^® 981 from Lubrizol, Carbopol ETD 2050 from Lubrizol, or Carbopol Ultrez 10 from Lubrizol.

According to one embodiment, the term "carbomer" or "carbomer" or "Carbopol ^®" an acrylic acid polymer of high molecular weight cross-linked with allyl sucrose or allyl ethers of pentaerythritol (Handbook of Pharmaceutical Excipients, 5 ^th Edition, plll). For example, it is the Carbopol ^® 10, Carbopol ^® 934, Carbopol ^® 934P, Carbopol 940 ^®, Carbopol ^® 941, Carbopol ^® 71 G, carbopol ^® 980, Carbopol ^® 971 P or Carbopol ^® 974P. According to one embodiment, the viscosity of said carbomer is between 4,000 and 60,000 cP at 0.5% w / w. The carbomers have other names: polyacrylic acids, carboxyvinyl polymers or carboxy polyethylenes.

According to the invention, the anionic polymer can also be a crosslinked copolymer acrylates / Cio-alkyl acrylate (INCI name: acrylates / Cio-30 alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer) as defined above.

According to the invention, the compositions according to the invention may comprise a carbomer and a crosslinked copolymer acrylates / Cio-30 alkyl acrylate.

In the context of the present application, and unless otherwise stated, the term "cationic polymer" (or "cationic type polymer") a polymer having chemical functions of cationic type. We can also speak of cationic polyelectrolyte.

Preferably, the cationic polymer is lipophilic or fat-soluble.

As an example of a cationic polymer, there may be mentioned any polymer formed by the polymerization of monomers at least a part of which carries chemical functions of cationic type, such as primary, secondary or tertiary amine functions.

Among the examples of cationic polymers suitable for the implementation of the invention, there may be mentioned amodimethicone, derived from a silicone polymer (polydimethylsiloxane, also called dimethicone), modified by primary amine functions and secondary amine.

Mention may also be made of amodimethicone derivatives, for example copolymers of amodimethicone, aminopropyl dimethicone, and more generally linear or branched silicone polymers containing amine functions.

The bis-isobutyl copolymer PEG-14 / amodimethicone, Bis (C 13-15 Alkoxy) PG-Amodimethicone, Bis-Cetearyl Amodimethicone and bis-hydroxy / methoxy amodimethicone may be mentioned.

Mention may also be made of polysaccharide-type polymers comprising amine functions, such as chitosan or guar gum derivatives (hydroxypropyltrimonium guar chloride).

Mention may also be made of polypeptide-type polymers comprising amine functions, such as polylysine.

Mention may also be made of polyethyleneimine polymers comprising amine functions, such as linear or branched polyethyleneimine. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the cationic polymer corresponds to the following formula

in which :

- Ri, R ₂ and R ₃ , independently of each other, represent OH or CH ₃ ;

R ₄ represents a -CH ₂ - group or a -X-NH- group in which X is a divalent C 3 or C 4 alkylene radical;

x is an integer between 10 and 5000, preferably between 30 and 1000, and more preferably between 80 and 300;

y is an integer between 2 and 1000, preferably between 4 and 100, and more preferably between 5 and 20; and

z is an integer between 0 and 10, preferably between 0 and 1, and more preferably equal to 1.

In the aforementioned formula, when R ₄ is -X-NH-, X is attached to the silicon atom. In the aforementioned formula, R 1, R ₂ and R ₃ are preferably CH ₃ . In the aforementioned formula, R ₄ is preferably - (CH ₂ ) ₃ -NH-.

Hydrophilic gelling agent

A composition according to the invention further comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent in the aqueous phase, and therefore in the spheres (S1).

In one embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from the group consisting of natural texturing agents, semi-synthetic texturing agents, synthetic texturing agents, and mixtures thereof.

As hydrophilic texture agents, that is to say those which are soluble or dispersible in water, and therefore present in the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention, mention may be made of:

natural texture agents, chosen in particular from algae extracts, plant exudates, seed extracts, exudates from microorganisms, such as alcasealan (INCI: Alcaligenes Polysaccharides), and other natural agents,

semi-synthetic texture agents, especially chosen from cellulose derivatives and modified starches,

synthetic texturizing agents, chosen in particular from homopolymers of (meth) acrylic acid or one of their esters, (meth) acrylic acid copolymers or one of their esters, copolymers of AMPS (2-acrylamido); 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid), associative polymers,

the other texturing agents, especially chosen from polyethylene glycols (sold under the name Carbowax), clays, silicas such as those sold under the names Aerosil® 90/130/150/200/300/380), glycerin, and

- their mixtures.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "associative polymer" means any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion; the associative polymers according to the present invention may be anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric; these include those described in FR 2 999 921. Preferably, these are amphiphilic and anionic associative polymers and amphiphilic and nonionic associative polymers as described below.

Among the natural texturing agents, mention may be made more particularly of algae extracts represented by agar-agar, carrageenans, alginates, and mixtures thereof.

Among the natural texturing agents, mention may be made more particularly of exudates of plants represented by gum tragacanth, gum Karaya, gatty gum, gum arabic, and mixtures thereof.

Among the natural texturing agents, there may be mentioned more particularly the seed extracts represented by locust bean gum, guar gum, tara gum, konjac gum, pectins, and mixtures thereof.

Among the natural texturing agents, there may be mentioned more particularly exudates of microorganisms represented by xanthan gum, gellan gum, pullulan, and mixtures thereof.

Among the natural texturing agents, mention may also be made of other natural agents represented, in particular, by gelatin, collagen, keratin, vegetable proteins, in particular wheat and / or soy, polymers of chitin or anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric chitosan, hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof, especially sodium hyaluronate such as that sold under the names HA Oligo, SC Hyaluronic Acid or HyaCare, and mixtures thereof.

Among the semi-synthetic texture agents, the cellulose derivatives are in particular represented by carboxymethylcellulose (CMC) such as that sold under the names Aqualon series or Walocel series; hydroxypropylcellulose (HPC) such as that sold under the name Klucel HPC; hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC) such as that sold under the names Cellosize series or Natrosol 250 series; hydroxyethyl methylcellulose such as that marketed under the name Walocel series; hydroxypropyl methylcellulose such as that sold under the names Methocel E / F / J / K series from Dow Chemicals, VIVAPHARM CS 152 HV, Benecel E4M, E10M, K100M; methylcellulose such as that sold under the name Methocel A series; ethylcellulose such as that marketed under the name Ethocel series; microcrystalline cellulose such as that marketed under the name Avicel PH series; alkylhydroxyethylcellulose such as cetylhydroxyethylcellulose sold under the name Polysurf 67, and mixtures thereof.

Among the semi-synthetic texture agents, the modified starches are derivatives of starch resulting from the modification of the native starch by etherification, esterification or crosslinking, such as in particular sodium carboxymethyl starch such as that marketed under the names COVAGEL, VIVASTAR® CS 352 SV or VIVASTAR CS 302 SV; hydroxypropyl starch such as that sold under the names Zeina B860, Amaze NI, Amycol SQ, Penon PKW; hydroxypropyl starch phosphate such as that marketed under the names Structure ZEA / style / XL; and their mixtures.

Of the synthetic texturing agents, homopolymers of (meth) acrylic acid or an ester thereof are in particular represented by sodium polyacrylates such as those sold under the names Cosmedia SP, Covacryl MV60 / MV40, Cosmedia SPL or Luvigel EM; crosslinked (or carbomeric) (meth) acrylic acid polymers, such as those sold under the names Carbopol 900 series, Carbopol 2984/5984, Carbopol Ultrez 10/30, in particular Carbopole Ultrez 21, Tego Carbomer 134/140 / 141, Aqupec HV- 505, HV-505HC, HV-504, HV-501, HV-505E, HV-504E, HV-501 E, HV-505ED, Ashland 941 carbomer, or Ashland 981 carbomer; and their mixtures. Among these texturing agents, mention may also be made of the anionic polymers as mentioned above, in particular the carbomers defined above.

Of the synthetic texture agents, the copolymers of (meth) acrylic acid or one of their esters are especially represented by glyceryl acrylate / acrylic acid copolymer such as the one sold under the names Lubrajel series, Lubrasil series or Norgel ; acrylate copolymers such as those sold under the names Carbopol Aqua SF-1 OS Polymer (INCI name = Acrylates copolymer); crosspolymer-2 sodium acrylates such as that marketed under the name Aquakeep 10 SH NF; acrylates / C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate crosspolymers such as those sold under the names Carbopol 1342/1382, Carbopol ETD 2020, Pemulen TR-1 / TR-2, Carbopol Ultrez 20/21, Tego Carbomer 341 ER, Tego Carbomer 750 HD, Tego Carbomer 841 SER, Aqupec HV-501 ER, HV-701 EDR, HV-501 EM, SER W-150C or SER W-300C; sodium acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer such as that sold under the name Novemer EC-2; acrylates / acrylamide copolymers such as that sold under the name Novemer EC-1 by Lubrizol; acrylamide / sodium acrylate copolymers such as that sold under the name Aquagel 55; Acrylic Acid / VP crosspolymers such as the one marketed under the name Ultrathix P-100; and their mixtures.

Among the synthetic texturing agents, the AMPS copolymers are in particular represented by AMPS NH 4 / vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Aristoflex AVC (INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer); AMPS NH 4 / Beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, such as the product sold under the name Aristoflex HMB (INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer); AMPS Na / Vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, such as the product sold under the name Aristoflex AVS (INCI: Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer); AMPS NH4 / 2-Carboxyethylacrylate copolymers, such as that sold under the name Aristoflex TAC (INCI: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / carboxyethyl crosspolymer); AMPS Na Acrylic Acid / Sodium Acrylate / Dimethylacrylamide copolymers, such as that sold under the name Simulgel SMS88 (INCI: Sodium Acrylate / Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Dimethylacrylamide Crosspolymer & Isohexadecane & Polysorbate 60); AMPS Na / Sodium Acrylate copolymers such as those sold under the names Simulgel EG (INCI: Sodium Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Isohexadecane & Polysorbate 80) or Simulgel EPG (INCI: Sodium Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Polyisobutene & Caprylyl / Capryl Glucoside); AMPS Na Acrylamide copolymers such as those sold under the names Simulgel 600 (INCI: Acrylamide / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / lsohexadecane / Polysorbate-80) or Sepigel 305 (INCI: Polyacrylamide / C13-C14 lsoparaffin / Laureth-7); the AMPS Na / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymers, such as those sold under the names Simulgel NS (INCI: hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer & squalane & polysorbate-60), Simulgel INS 100 (INCI: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Isohexadecane & Polysorbate 60), Simulgel FL (INCI: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer & Isohexadecane & Polysorbate 60), Sepinov WEO or Sepinov EMT (INCI: hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer); acryloyl Dimethyltaurate / Sodium Acrylate / Dimethylacrylamide crosspolymers such as that marketed under the name Sepinov P88 (INCI: Sodium Acrylate / Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Dimethylacrylamide Crosspolymer); and their mixtures.

Among the synthetic texturing agents, mention may also be made of PVP such as that sold under the name FlexiThix polymer.

Among the synthetic texturing agents, the amphiphilic and anionic associative polymers are especially represented by the acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer such as that marketed under the name Aculyn 22; acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer such as that sold under the name Aculyn 28; C ₃₀ -3 ₈ Olefin / Isopropyl Maleate / MA Copolymer such as that sold under the name Performa V 1608; Acrylates / Steareth-20 Methacrylate Crosspolymer such as that sold under the name Aculyn 88; Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 such as that sold under the name Sepimax Zen; Acrylates / C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymers such as those mentioned above; and their mixtures.

Among the synthetic texturing agents, the amphiphilic and nonionic associative polymers are especially represented by PEG-150 distearate such as that marketed under the name Emanon 3299V; the PEG-150 / Decyl Alcohol / SMDI Copolymer such as the one sold under the name Aculyn 44; PEG-150 / stearyl alcohol / SMDI copolymer such as that sold under the name Aculyn 46; acrylates / ceteth-20 itaconate copolymer such as that marketed under the name Structure 3001 by AkzoNobel Personal Care; polyurethane polyethers such as those sold under the names Rheolate FX 1100, Rheolate 205, Rheolate 208/204/212, Elfacos T1212, Acrysol RM 184 / RM 2020, Adeka Nol GT-700 / GT-730; polyurethane-39 such as that sold under the name Luvigel Star; cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose such as those sold under the names Natrosol ™ Plus or PolySurf ™ 67; and their mixtures.

As agents for texture of the aqueous phase, mention may also be made of clays, in particular represented by bentonite such as that sold under the names Veegum, Veegum HS or Vanatural; montmorillonite, hectorite such as that marketed under the names Bentone series or Hectone series; kaolinite, and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention may comprise a single hydrophilic gelling agent as defined above, or a mixture of at least two hydrophilic gelling agents as defined above.

A composition according to the invention comprises a sufficient amount of gelling agent (s) hydrophilic (s), including heat-sensitive (s), to prevent / limit the coalescence phenomena of the spheres (S1) between them. Advantageously, the content of gelling agent (s) hydrophilic (s) is between 0.1% and 15%, preferably between 0.3% and 10%, preferably between 0.5% and 5%, especially between 0.8% and 3%, in particular between 1% and 2%, by weight relative to the weight of the aqueous phase of said composition.

Preferably, the content of gelling agent (s) hydrophilic (s) is between 0.5% and 0.9% by weight relative to the weight of aqueous phase of said composition. This range is particularly advantageous in that it provides a fair compromise between good mechanical strength of the spheres (S1) and crushing application; this property confers a particular sensoriality to the application since the user really feels the spheres (S1) crashing to the application. According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase comprises at least two hydrophilic gelling agents, at least one being a heat-sensitive hydrophilic gelling agent.

According to the invention, the expression "hydrophilic hydrophilic gelling agent" designates a hydrophilic gelling agent making it possible to increase the viscosity of the aqueous phase of the spheres (S1) without said gelling agent, this viscosity evolving reversibly as a function of their temperature. .

Thus, a hydrophilic gelling agent thermosensitive in the sense of the present invention is a compound having a melting point above which it is in a liquid form, but below which it is in a solid form and therefore contributes to increasing the viscosity of the phase comprising it.

Among these hydrophilic heat-sensitive gelling agents include, for example, gelatin, pectin, agar-agar, and mixtures thereof.

Preferentially, the agar-agar is used as a heat-sensitive hydrophilic gelling agent. A preferred composition according to the invention therefore comprises agar-agar as a gelling agent. The agar-agar is particularly advantageous in that it has a good cold transparency as well as a good "speed of gelling / crushing on application" ratio.

According to a preferred embodiment, the content of heat-sensitive hydrophilic gelling agent (s), in particular of agar-agar, is between 0.1% and 15%, preferably between 0.3%. % and 10%, preferably between 0.5% and 5%, especially between 0.8% and 3%, in particular between 1% and 2% or even between 0.3% and 0.8%, by weight relative to aqueous phase weight of said composition.

Fatty phase

According to the invention, the compositions according to the invention comprise a fatty phase (or continuous phase) in which the aforementioned solid spheres (S1) are dispersed.

The fatty phase according to the invention may represent at least 70%, in particular at least 80%, preferably at least 90%, and more preferably at least 95%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, in the compositions according to the invention, the fatty phase content is between 70% and 99%, preferably between 70% and 95%, especially between 75% and 90%, and preferably between 80% and 85%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to a first variant embodiment, the fatty phase is suspensive with respect to the spheres (S1). Thus, the spheres (S1) remain suspended in the fatty phase over a prolonged period of time, for example greater than 1 month, preferably greater than 3 months, and better still greater than 6 months. In addition to the associated visual, this variant is advantageous in that it makes it possible to prevent / limit the coalescence phenomena of the spheres (S1) between them and / or the creaming of the spheres (S1) in the fatty phase.

According to a second variant embodiment, the fatty phase is non-suspensive with respect to the spheres (S1). Thus, to the naked eye, a separation of the spheres (S1) with respect to the fatty phase is observed over a period of time of less than 1 month, preferably less than 15 days, better less than 1 week, or even less than 1 day. Such a composition according to the invention is then described as a bi-phasic composition. This separation can result from sedimentation or creaming of the spheres (S1) in the fatty phase.

This separation can be immediate after mixing a composition according to the invention. In other words, the separation between the spheres (S1) and the fat phase can take place over a period of time between 5 and 60 seconds.

This separation of the two phases of a composition according to the invention can be carried out over a longer period of time after mixing a composition according to the invention. In other words, the separation between the spheres (S1) and the fatty phase can take place over a period of time greater than 1 minute, in particular between 1 minute and 300 minutes.

Generally, the separation of the spheres (S1) relative to the aqueous continuous phase is by sedimentation of the spheres (S1), given their hydrophilic nature, and therefore their density generally greater than that of the fatty phase.

However, the separation of the spheres (S1) with respect to the fatty phase can also be done by creaming the spheres (S1), in which case the skilled person must make a selection of oil (s) so that the spheres (S1) have a density lower than that of the fatty phase. These selections are general knowledge of the skilled person. For example, one can choose a fluorosilicone type oil (known to have a density greater than 1). These properties of suspensivity / non suspensivity of the spheres (S1) in the fatty phase are in particular conditioned by the nature and / or the content of oil (s) and / or lipophilic agent (s) having suspensive power.

The adaptations of the fatty phase, particularly with regard to the nature and / or the content of oil (s) and / or lipophilic agent (s), having suspensive power with respect to this suspensivity / non-suspensivity spheres (S1) in the fatty phase are general knowledge of those skilled in the art in the light of the teaching of the present description.

Advantageously, the fatty phase is shear thinning or pseudoplastic at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Rheofluidification refers to the fact, for a fluid, of "becoming more fluid" when the flow velocity increases. Specifically, this refers to the fact that the dynamic viscosity decreases as the shear rate increases. Shear thinning or shear thinning is also referred to as pseudo-plasticity.

Advantageously, the fatty phase is thixotropic at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

Lipophilic agent with suspending power

A composition according to the invention comprises at least one lipophilic agent having suspensive power. By "lipophilic agent having suspensive power" is meant an agent capable of increasing the viscosity of the fatty phase so as to improve the character (or power) suspensive of said fatty phase, in particular with respect to the spheres (S1 ). This lipophilic agent having suspensive power thus participates in stabilizing the composition according to the invention, and in particular in preventing and / or preventing the coalescence of the spheres (S1) between them and / or their creaming or sedimentation in the fatty phase.

It may also comprise a mixture of at least two lipophilic agents having suspensive power.

Preferably, the lipophilic agent having a suspending power according to the invention is chosen from lipophilic gelling agents well known to those skilled in the art, and this is detailed below.

According to one embodiment, the lipophilic gelling agent having suspensive power is chosen from organic or inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, polymeric or molecular; solid fatty substances at room temperature and pressure; and their mixtures.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "lipophilic gelling agent" is intended to mean a compound capable of gelling the fatty phase of the compositions according to the invention.

The gelling agent is liposoluble or lipodispersible.

As is apparent from the following, the lipophilic gelling agent is advantageously chosen from particulate gelling agents; organopolysiloxane elastomers; semi-crystalline polymers; polyacrylates; sugar / polysaccharide esters, in particular dextrin esters, inulin esters, glycerol esters; hydrogen-bonded polymers; hydrocarbon block copolymers and mixtures thereof.

Particulate gelling agents

The particulate gelling agent used in the composition according to the invention is in the form of particles, preferably spherical. As representative of the lipophilic particulate gelling agents that are suitable for the invention, polar, polar and apolar waxes, butters, modified clays, silicas such as pyrogenic silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels may be particularly mentioned.

By "wax" considered in the context of the present invention, is generally meant a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C), reversible solid state / liquid change, having a higher melting point or equal to 30 ° C up to 200 ° C and in particular up to 120 ° C. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the ISO 1 1357-3 standard; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid, at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

The waxes, within the meaning of the invention, may be those used generally in the cosmetic or dermatological fields. They can in particular be polar or apolar, silicone hydrocarbon and / or fluorinated, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin.

By "apolar wax", within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C as defined below, _a is equal to 0 (J / cm ³ ) ^1/2 . The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the three-dimensional solubility space of Hansen are described in the article by CM Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space:

- _D characterizes the London dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks;

- δ _ρ characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

- 5 _h characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond type, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.);

- 5 _a is determined by the equation: 5a = ((δ _ρ ² + 5 _h ² ) ^1/2 .

The parameters δ _ρ , 5 _h , 5 _D and 5 _a are expressed in (J / cm ³ ) ^1/2 .

The apolar waxes are in particular hydrocarbon waxes consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free of heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P.

The apolar waxes are chosen from microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, and mixtures thereof. As ozokerite mention may be made of Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P. As microcrystalline waxes that may be used, mention may be made of Multiwax W 445® marketed by Sonneborn, Microwax HW® and Base Wax 30540® 25 marketed by Paramelt, and Cerewax ® N ° 3 marketed by the company Baerlocher.

As microwaves which can be used in the compositions according to the invention as apolar wax, there may be mentioned in particular the microwaxes of polyethylene such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 30 220®, 220L® and 2505® by the company Micro Powders. As polyethylene wax, mention may be made of Performalene 500-L Polyethylene and Performalene 400 Polyethylene marketed by New Phase Technologies, Asensa® SC 21 1 sold by the company Honeywell.

By "polar wax", within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a wax whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C 5 _a is different from 0 (J / cm ³ ) ^1/2 . In particular, "polar wax" is understood to mean a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen atom. , nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus. The polar waxes may especially be hydrocarbon, fluorinated or silicone. Preferably, the polar waxes may be hydrocarbon-based.

By "hydrocarbon wax" is meant a wax formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen, nitrogen and not containing a silicon or fluorine atom. . It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

By "ester wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one ester function.

By "alcohol wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.

In particular, it is possible to use as ester wax:

ester waxes, such as those chosen from:

i) waxes of the formula ## STR2 ## in which R 1 and R ₂ represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms ranges from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P and the melting point temperature varies from 25 to 120 ° C;

ii) di- (trimethylol-1, 1, 1 propane) tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T-4S by the company Heterene;

iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R ₃ - (- OCOR ₄ -COO-R 5), in which R ₃ and R ₅ are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C ₄ alkyl group -C ₃₀ (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R ₄ represents a linear C ₄ -C ₃₀ aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) may or may not contain one or more unsaturation (s), and preferably linear and unsaturated;

iv) We can also mention the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having fatty chains, linear or branched, at C-8-C32, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, sunflower oil hydrogenated, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, and waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol; v) beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylene lanolin wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax , Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, orange wax, laurel wax, wax Hydrogenated Jojoba, sunflower wax, lemon wax, olive wax, berry wax.

In particular, there may be mentioned HYDROXYSTEAROYL STEARATE OF C18-C38 FATTY ALCOHOLS; INCI name: SYNTHETIC BEESWAX and sold under the name KESTERWAX K82P by the company Koster Keunen.

According to another embodiment, the polar wax may be an alcohol wax. By "alcohol wax" is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group. As alcohol wax, mention may be made, for example, of the wax C30-50 Alcohols Performacol ⁰ 550 Alcohol sold by New Phase Technologie, stearyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

It is also possible to use silicone waxes, which may advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably at a low melting point. By "silicone wax" is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups. Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention may be made in particular of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (Goldschmidt), KF910 and KF7002 (Shin Etsu), or 176-1 1 18-3 and 176-1 1481 (General Electric).

The silicone waxes that may be used may also be alkyl or alkoxydimethicones, as well as (C ₂ -C ₆₀ ) alkyldimethicones, in particular (C ₃₀ -C ₄₅ ) alkyldimethicones, such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE -Bayer Silicones or C ₅ ₃₀ -4 Alkyldiméthylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane under the name SW-C30 Resin Wax 8005® marketed by Dow Corning. In the context of the present invention, polyethylene waxes, jojoba wax, and silicone waxes may be mentioned as particularly advantageous waxes.

According to one particular form of the invention, waxes with a melting point greater than 45 ° C. comprising one or more C ₄ o C ₇ o ester compounds and not comprising a C ₂₀ -C 39 ester compound will be used. By "ester compound" is meant any organic molecule comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, comprising at least one ester function of formula - COOR where R represents a hydrocarbon radical, in particular a linear and saturated alkyl radical. By "wax not comprising a C ₂ -C ₃₉ ester compound" is meant any wax containing less than 1% by weight of C ₂₀ -C ₃₉ ester compound, preferably less than 0.5% by weight relative to the weight of wax or even free of C20-C39 ester compound.

The waxes according to the invention can also be used in the form of a mixture of waxes. The ester content comprising from 40 to 70 carbon atoms preferably ranges from 20 to 100% by weight and preferably from 20 to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of wax (es).

Candellila wax and / or beeswax will be used more particularly.

There may also be mentioned CRYSTALWAX (INCI: Hydroxystearic Acid (and) Synthetic Wax (and) Triisostearin (and) Polybutene (and) Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate) marketed by the company Sensient Cosmetic Technologies.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "butter" (also referred to as "pasty fatty substance") is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising at the temperature of 25 ° C. a liquid fraction and a fraction. solid, and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound may be less than 25 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 25 ° C. may represent from 9% to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 25 ° C is preferably between 15% and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight. Preferably, the one or more butters have an end-of-melting temperature of less than 60 ° C. Preferably, the one or more butters have a hardness less than or equal to 6 MPa.

Preferably, the butters or pasty fatty substances have in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, visible by X-ray observations.

Within the meaning of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the ISO 1 1357-3 standard; 1999. The melting point of a paste or a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by the company TA Instruments .

Concerning the measurement of the melting temperature and the determination of the end-of-melting temperature, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows: A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance (or butter) or wax previously heated at 80 ° C. and taken with magnetic stirring using an equally heated spatula is placed in an airtight aluminum capsule or crucible. Two tests are carried out to ensure the reproducibility of the results.

The measurements are carried out on the calorimeter mentioned above. The oven is subjected to a nitrogen sweep. The cooling is ensured by the RCS 90 heat exchanger. The sample is then subjected to the following protocol, first being brought to a temperature of 20 ° C and then subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from 20 ° C to 80 ° C. ° C, at the heating rate of 5 ° C / minute, then cooled from 80 ° C to -80 ° C at a cooling rate of 5 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from - 80 ° C to 80 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second rise in temperature, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the butter sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The end of melting temperature corresponds to the temperature at which 95% of the sample melted.

The liquid fraction by weight of the butter (or pasty fatty substance) at 25 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 25 ° C. on the enthalpy of melting of the butter. The enthalpy of melting of the butter or pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state.

The butter is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The butter is said to be in the liquid state when the entirety of its mass is in liquid form. The melting enthalpy of the butter is equal to the integral of the whole of the melting curve obtained with the aid of the calorimeter evoked, with a rise in temperature of 5 ° C. or 10 ° C. per minute, according to the standard ISO 1,1357-3: 1999. The melting enthalpy of the butter is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 25 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state it has at 25 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32 ° C preferably represents from 30% to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably from 50% to 100%, more preferably from 60% to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32 ° C is 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C. The liquid fraction of the butter measured at 32 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. on the enthalpy of melting of the butter. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C.

With regard to the measurement of the hardness, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows: the composition according to the invention or the butter is placed in a mold 75 mm in diameter which is filled to about 75% of its height. In order to overcome the thermal past and control the crystallization, the mold is placed in the Vôtsch VC0018 programmable oven where it is first heated to 80 ° C for 60 minutes, then cooled from 80 ° C to 0 ° C at a cooling rate of 5 ° C / minute, then left at the stabilized temperature of 0 ° C for 60 minutes, then subjected to a temperature rise from 0 ° C to 20 ° C, at a rate of heat of 5 ° C / minute, then left at the stabilized temperature of 20 ° C for 180 minutes. The compression force measurement is performed with Swantech TA / TX2i texturometer. The mobile used is chosen according to the texture: - mobile cylindrical steel 2 mm in diameter for very rigid raw materials; - Cylindrical 12 mm diameter steel for rigid raw materials. The measurement comprises 3 steps: a first step after automatic detection of the surface of the sample where the mobile moves at the measurement speed of 0.1 mm / s, and enters the composition according to the invention or the butter at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm, the software records the value of the maximum force reached; a second so-called relaxation stage where the mobile stays at this position for one second and where the force is noted after 1 second of relaxation; finally a third so-called withdrawal step where the mobile returns to its initial position at the speed of 1 mm / s and the energy of withdrawal of the probe (negative force) is recorded.

The value of the hardness measured during the first step corresponds to the maximum compression force measured in Newton divided by the surface of the texturometer cylinder expressed in mm ² in contact with the butter or composition according to the invention. The value of hardness obtained is expressed in megapascals or MPa.

The pasty fatty substance or butter may be chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty fatty substance can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin.

The pasty fatty substance is advantageously chosen from:

lanolin and its derivatives such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolins, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolines,

polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, such as polydimethylsiloxanes of high molecular weight, polydimethylsiloxanes with side chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, especially stearyl dimethicones,

polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds, vinyl polymers, in particular

homopolymers of olefins,

copolymers of olefins,

homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes,

linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C ₈ -C ₃ o alkyl group,

homo and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl esters having C ₈ -C ₃ alkyl groups,

the homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C ₈ -C ₃ alkyl groups,

the liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more di-C ₂ -C ₁₀ o, preferably C ₂ -C ₅₀ diols,

esters and polyesters, and

- their mixtures.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the particular butter or butters are of plant origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Fats and Fatty Oils", A. Thomas, published on 15/06/2000, D01 : 10.1002 / 14356007.a10_173, point 13.2.2.2 Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters).

Mention may be made more particularly of C10-C18 triglycerides (INCI name: C10-18 triglycerides) having at a temperature of 25 ° C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction, the butter of shea butter, Shea Butter Nilotica (Butyrospermum parkii), Galam butter, (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or Tengkawang tallow) (Shorea stenoptera), Shorea butter, Illipé butter, Madhuca butter or Bassia Madhuca longifolia, mowrah butter (Madhuca Latifolia), Katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), Phulwara butter (M. butyracea), mango butter (Mangifera indica), Murumuru butter (Astrocatyum murumuru), butter of Kokum (Garcinia Indica), Ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), Tucuma butter, Painya butter (Kpangnan) (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus Armeniaca), Macadamia butter (Macadamia Temifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter ( Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao) and sunflower butter, butter the INCI name Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, butter under the INCI name Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, and butter under the INCI name Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter, jojoba esters (blend of wax and hydrogenated jojoba oil) (INCI name Jojoba esters) and ethyl esters of shea butter (INCI name: Shea butter ethyl esters), and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic clay. The clays can be natural or synthetic and are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkylammonium salt such as a C10-C22 ammonium chloride, for example di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride. They may be chosen from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.

Preferably, they are chosen from hectorites. Preferably, the lipophilic clays used are hectorites modified with a C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, that marketed under the name of Bentone 38V® by Elementis or the bentone gel in isododecane sold under the name Bentone Gel ISD V® (Isododecane 87% / Disteardimonium Hectorite 10% / Propylene carbonate 3%) by Elementis. The fatty phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, as gelling agent, a fumed silica or silica airgel particles.

Particularly suitable for the invention, the hydrophobic treated silica treated surface. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

The hydrophobic groups can be:

trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R812® by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by Cabot.

dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are especially obtained by treating fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972®, and Aerosil R974® by Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by Cabot.

The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, as gelling agent, at least silica aerogel particles. Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. They are generally synthesized by sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then usually dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being the supercritical CO ₂ . This type of drying avoids the contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various dryings are described in detail in Brinker CJ, and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990. The hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention exhibit a specific surface per unit mass (SM) ranging from 500 to 1500 m ² / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m ² / g and better still from 600 to 800 m ² / g, and a size expressed in average diameter in terms of volume (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 μηι, better still from 1 to 1000 μηι, preferably from 1 to 100 μηι, in particular from 1 to 30 μηι, more preferably from 5 to 25 μηι, better from 5 to 20 μηι and even better from 5 to 15 μηι.

According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 μηι, preferably from 5 to 25 μηι. , better from 5 to 20 μηι and even better from 5 to 15 μηι. The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called the BET method (Brunauer - Emmet - Teller) described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D). The BET surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration. The silica airgel particle sizes can be measured by static light scattering using a MasterSizer 2000 commercial particle size analyzer from Malvern. The data is processed on the basis of Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" diameter of particles. This theory is particularly described in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface per unit mass (SM) ranging from 600 to 800 m ² / g.

The silica airgel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a packed density p ranging from 0.02 g / cm ³ to 0.10 g / cm ³ , preferably from 0.03 g / cm ³ to 0, 08 g / cm ³ , in particular ranging from 0.05 g / cm ³ to 0.08 g / cm ³ . In the context of the present invention, this density can be assessed according to the following protocol, called the packed density: 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated test tube; then the specimen is placed on the STAV 2003 machine from Stampf Volumeter; the test piece is then subjected to a series of 2,500 settlements (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); then the final volume Vf of compacted powder is measured directly on the test piece. The packed density is determined by the ratio m / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm ³ and m in g).

According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume SV ranging from 5 to 60 m ² / cm ³ , preferably from 10 to 50 m ² / cm ³ and better from 15 to 40 m ² / cm ³ . The specific area per unit volume is given by the relation: S _v = S _M xp; where p is the packed density expressed in g / cm ³ and S _M is the specific surface area per unit mass expressed in m ² / g, as defined above.

Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity measured at Wet Point ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and better still from 8 to 18 ml / g. at 12 ml / g. The absorption capacity measured at Wet Point, and denoted by Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil that must be added to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste. It is measured according to the so-called Wet Point method or method for determining the setting of powder oil described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the Wet Point, described below: A quantity m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and then the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil in the powder, mixing is carried out with a spatula and oil is added until the formation of oil and powder conglomerates. From this moment, the oil is added one drop at a time and then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be spread on the glass plate without cracks or lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted. The oil intake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m.

The aerogels used according to the present invention are aerogels of hydrophobic silica, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).

By "hydrophobic silica" is meant any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example by halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, in order to functionalize the OH groups by Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups. With regard to the preparation of hydrophobic silica airgel particles surface-modified by silylation, reference may be made to US Pat. No. 7,470,725. Preferably, hydrophobic silica airgel particles which are surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups, preferably INCI name Silica silylate. Examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the invention include, for example, the airgel marketed under the name VM-2260 or VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, of which the particles have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass of 600 to 800 m ² / g. Mention may also be made of the aerogels marketed by Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203, ENOVA Aerogel MT 1100, ENOVA Aerogel MT 1200. The airgel marketed under the trade name VM will preferably be used. -2270 (INCI name Silica silylate), by Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m ² / g.

Organopolysiloxane elastomer

The organopolysiloxane elastomer has the advantage of giving the composition according to the invention good application properties. It provides a very soft touch after application, especially advantageous for application on the skin. It can also allow an effective filling of the hollows present on the keratin materials.

By "organopolysiloxane elastomer" or "silicone elastomer" is meant a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties and especially the consistency of a sponge or a flexible sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is able to recover its original shape after stretching. It is more particularly a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer.

Thus, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and diorganopolysiloxane having silicon-bonded ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence of platinum catalyst; or by condensation-crosslinking dehydrogenation reaction between a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen, especially in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, electron beam.

Preferably, the organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by addition reaction crosslinking (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) diorganopolysiloxane having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups bonded to silicon, especially in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst, as for example described in application EP-A-295886.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst. The compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer and the crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of the compound (A) with the compound (B) in the presence of the catalyst (C). The compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule. The compound (A) may have any molecular structure, in particular a linear chain or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure. The compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular to be well miscible with the compound (B). The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of the compound (A) can be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group. The compound (A) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane trimethylsiloxy endblock copolymers and cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers. The compound (B) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example C ₂ -C ₄ ); the lower alkenyl group may be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule.

The organopolysiloxane (B) may have a branched chain, straight chain, cyclic or network structure but the linear chain structure is preferred. The compound (B) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, the compound (B) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25 ° C. In addition to the aforementioned alkenyl groups, the other organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms in the compound (B) can be alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group. The organopolysiloxane (B) can be chosen from methylvinylpolysiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy endings, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-diphenylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated methylvinylsiloxane, dimethylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers endings trimethylsiloxy, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) -polysiloxane, and dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxanemethyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) siloxane copolymers.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer can be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst.

Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of the compound (A) is at least 5.

It is advantageous that the compound (A) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in the compound (A) and the total amount of all the groups to Ethylenic unsaturation in the compound (B) is in the range of 1.5: 1 to 20: 1.

Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acidketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum on support. The catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A). and B). The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer.

The term "non-emulsifying" defines organopolysiloxane elastomers that do not contain a hydrophilic chain, and in particular that do not contain any motifs. polyoxyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene), or polyglyceryl unit. Thus, according to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer devoid of polyoxyalkylene units and a polyglyceryl unit. In particular, the silicone elastomer used in the present invention is selected from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name) . The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles may be conveyed in the form of a gel consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles.

Non-emulsifying elastomers are described in EP 242 219, EP 285 886, EP 765 656 and JP-A-61-194009.

The silicone elastomer is generally in the form of a gel, a paste or a powder, but advantageously in the form of a gel in which the silicone elastomer is dispersed in a linear silicone oil (dimethicone ) or cyclic (eg cyclopentasiloxane), advantageously in a linear silicone oil.

As non-emulsifying elastomers, it is more particularly possible to use those sold under the names "KSG-6", "KSG-15", "KSG-16", "KSG-18", "KSG-41", "KSG-42" , "KSG-43", "KSG-44", by the company Shin Etsu, "DC9040", "DC9041", by the company Dow Corning, "SFE 839" by the company General Electric.

According to one particular embodiment, a silicone elastomer gel dispersed in a silicone oil chosen from a non-exhaustive list comprising cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicones, dimethylsiloxanes, methyl trimethicone, phenylmethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, and cyclomethicone, is used. preferably a linear silicone oil chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicones with a viscosity at 25 ° C. ranging from 1 to 500 ° C. at 25 ° C., optionally modified with aliphatic groups, optionally fluorinated, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups.

These include the following INCI name compounds:

Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as USG-105 and USG-107A from Shin Etsu; "DC9506" and "DC9701" from Dow Corning; Dimethicone / Dimethicone Vinyl Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone, such as "KSG-6" and "KSG-16" from Shin Etsu;

Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Cyclopentasiloxane, such as "KSG-15";

Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC9040", "DC9045" and "DC5930" from Dow Corning;

Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC9041" from Dow Corning;

Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as Dow Corning EL-9240 Silicone Elastomer Blend from Dow Corning (Polydimethylsiloxane mixture cross-linked with hexadiene / polydimethyl siloxane (2 cSt));

- C4-24 Alkyl Dimethicone / DivinyIDimethicone Crosspolymer, such as NuLastic Silk MA by the company Alzo.

As examples of silicone elastomers dispersed in a linear silicone oil that can advantageously be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the following references:

Dimethicone / Dimethicone Vinyl Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone, such as "KSG-6" and "KSG-16" from Shin Etsu;

Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC9041" from Dow Corning;

Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as Dow Corning EL-9240 silicone elastomer blend from Dow Corning (Hexadiene / polydimethyl silane crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane mixture (2 cSt)); and

DIMETHICONE (and) VINYLDIMETHYL / TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE / DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, BELSIL REG 1 100 from Wacker Silicone.

The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles may also be used in powder form, mention may be made in particular of the powders sold under the names "Dow Corning 9505 Powder" and "Dow Corning 9506 Powder" by the company Dow Corning. These powders are intended INCI name: dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, as well as "Dow Corning® 9701 Cosmetic Powder" (INCI: Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Silica).

The organopolysiloxane powder may also be coated with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in US Pat. No. 5,538,793. Such elastomer powders are sold under the names "KSP-100", "KSP-101" and "KSP102". "," KSP-103 "," KSP-104 "," KSP-105 "by Shin Etsu, and are INCI name: vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane Crosspolymer.

As examples of organopolysiloxane powders coated with silsesquioxane resin that can advantageously be used according to the invention, there may be mentioned especially the reference "KSP-100" from Shin Etsu.

As preferred lipophilic gelling agent of the organopolysiloxane elastomer type, there may be mentioned in particular cross-linked organopolysiloxane elastomers chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer ( INCI name), Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name), DIMETHICONE (and) VINYLDIMETHYIJTRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE / DIMETH ICONE

CROSSPOLYMER and in particular DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, KSG16 from Shin Etsu or DIMETHICONE (and) VINYLDIMETHYL / TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE / DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, BELSIL REG 1 100 from Wacker silicone.

Semi-crystalline polymers

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one semicrystalline polymer. Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymer has an organic structure, and a melting temperature greater than or equal to 30 ° C.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "semi-crystalline polymer" is intended to mean polymers comprising a crystallizable part and an amorphous part and having a first-order reversible phase change temperature, in particular melting (solid-liquid transition). . The crystallizable portion is either a side chain (or pendant chain) or a sequence in the backbone. When the crystallizable portion of the semi-crystalline polymer is a sequence of the polymer backbone, this crystallizable block is of a different chemical nature from that of the amorphous sequences; in this case, the semicrystalline polymer is a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type. When the crystallizable portion is a chain pendant to the backbone, the semi-crystalline polymer may be a homopolymer or a copolymer. The melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably less than 150 ° C. The melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is preferably greater than or equal to 30 ° C and less than 100 ° C. More preferably, the melting temperature of the semi-crystalline polymer is greater than or equal to 30 ° C and less than 70 ° C. The Semi-crystalline polymers according to the invention are solids at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), whose melting temperature is greater than or equal to 30 ° C. The melting point values correspond to the melting point measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the Mettler company, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute (The melting point considered is the point corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the thermogram).

The semi-crystalline polymer (s) according to the invention preferably have a melting point higher than the temperature of the keratinous support intended to receive said composition, in particular the skin, the lips or the eyelids.

According to the invention, the semi-crystalline polymers are advantageously soluble in the fatty phase, especially at least 1% by weight, at a temperature above their melting point. Apart from crystallizable chains or blocks, the sequences of the polymers are amorphous. By "chain or crystallizable block" is meant, in the sense of the invention, a chain or sequence which, if it were alone, would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state, reversibly, depending on whether it is above or below below the melting temperature. A chain within the meaning of the invention is a group of atoms, during or lateral to the backbone of the polymer. A sequence is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, a group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer.

Preferably, the polymer backbone of the semi-crystalline polymers is soluble in the fatty phase at a temperature above their melting point. Preferably, the crystallizable sequences or chains of the semi-crystalline polymers represent at least 30% of the total weight of each polymer and better still at least 40%. Crystallizable side-chain semi-crystalline polymers are homo- or co-polymers. The semicrystalline polymers of the invention with crystallizable sequences are copolymers, sequential or multisequenced. They can be obtained by reactive (or ethylenic) double bond monomer polymerization or by polycondensation. When the polymers of the invention are crystallizable side chain polymers, the latter are advantageously in random or statistical form.

Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers of the invention are of synthetic origin. According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from:

homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers bearing crystallizable hydrophobic side chain (s),

polymers carrying in the backbone at least one crystallizable block,

polycondensates of polyester, aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic type,

copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis, and

acrylate / silicone copolymers.

The semicrystalline polymers that may be used in the invention may be chosen in particular from:

block copolymers of polyolefins with controlled crystallization, the monomers of which are described in EP 0 951 897,

polycondensates and in particular of polyester, aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic type,

copolymers of ethylene and propylene prepared by metallocene catalysis,

homopolymers or copolymers carrying at least one crystallizable side chain and homopolymers bearing in the backbone at least one crystallizable block, such as those described in document US Pat. No. 5,156,91, such as -C ₃₀ ) alkyl polyacrylates corresponding to Intelimer® from Landec described in the brochure "Intelimere polymers", Landec 1 P22 (Rev. 4-97) and for example the product Intelimer® IPA 13-1 from Landec, which is a stearyl polyacrylate with a molecular weight of about 145,000 and a melting temperature of 49 ° C,

homopolymers or copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain, in particular with fluorinated group (s), as described in document WO 01/19333,

acrylate / silicone copolymers, such as copolymers of acrylic acid and polydimethylsiloxane grafted stearyl acrylate, polydimethylsiloxane grafted stearyl methacrylate copolymers, and polydimethylsiloxane grafted stearyl methacrylate and acrylic acid copolymers, the copolymers of methyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, ethyl-2-hexyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts. Mention may in particular be made of the copolymers sold by the company SHIN-ETSU under the names KP-561 (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone), KP-541 (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone and isopropyl alcohol), KP-545 (CTFA name acrylates / dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane),

- and their mixtures.

polyacrylate

According to one embodiment, the gelling agent is chosen from polyacrylates resulting from the polymerization of C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate (s), preferably of C ₁₄ alkyl acrylate (s). C ₂ 4, and even more preferably C ₁₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl acrylate (s) _.

According to one embodiment, the polyacrylates are polymers of acrylic acid esterified with a fatty alcohol whose saturated carbon chain comprises from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 24 carbon atoms, or a mixture of said fatty alcohols . Preferably, the fatty alcohol comprises 18 carbon atoms or 22 carbon atoms.

Among the polyacrylates, there may be mentioned more particularly stearyl polyacrylate, behenyl polyacrylate. Preferably, the gelling agent is stearyl polyacrylate or behenyl polyacrylate.

There may be mentioned polyacrylates sold under the names Interlimer® (INCI name: Poly Cio-C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate), including Interlimer® 13.1 and Interlimer® 13.6, by the company Airproducts.

Esters of dextrin

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one dextrin ester. In particular, the composition preferably comprises at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid, preferably C ₁₂ to C ₂₄ , in particular C ₁₄ to C ₁₈ , or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the dextrin ester is a C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ , in particular C ₁₄ -C _18, fatty acid dextrin ester.

Preferably, the dextrin ester is selected from dextrin myristate and / or dextrin palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin myristate, such as that sold especially under the name Rheopearl MKL-2 by Chiba Flour Milling. According to a preferred embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin palmitate. This may for example be chosen from those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® or Rheopearl® KL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.

Inulin ester

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one ester of inulin and of fatty acid. Mention may in particular be made of the esters of inulin and fatty acid (s) sold under the names Rheopearl® ISK2 or Rheopearl® ISL2 (INCI name: Stearoyl Inulin) by the company Miyoshi Europe

Glycerol ester

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one ester of glycerol and of fatty acid (s), in particular a mono-, di- or triester of glycerol and of fatty acid (s). Typically, said ester of glycerol and fatty acid (s) may be used alone or as a mixture.

According to the invention, it may be a glycerol ester and a fatty acid or a glycerol ester and a mixture of fatty acids.

According to one embodiment, the fatty acid is selected from the group consisting of behenic acid, isooctadecanoic acid, stearic acid, eicosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may in particular be made of the esters of glycerol and of fatty acid (s) marketed under the names Nomcort HK-G (INCI name: Glyceryl behenate / eicosadioate) and Nomcort SG (INCI name: Glyceryl tribehenate, isostearate, eicosadioate), by the Nisshin Oillio company.

Hydrogen bonded polymers

As a representative of the hydrogen-bonded polymers that are suitable for the invention, polyamides and in particular hydrocarbon polyamides and silicone polyamides may be mentioned in particular.

The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polyamide chosen from hydrocarbon polyamides, silicone polyamides, and mixtures thereof. For the purposes of the invention, the term "polyamide" means a compound having at least 2 amide repeating units, preferably at least 3 amide repeating units and more preferably 10 amide repeating units. By "hydrocarbon-based polyamide" is meant a polyamide formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. For the purposes of the invention, the term "functionalized chain" means an alkyl chain comprising one or more functional groups or reactive groups chosen in particular from hydroxyl, ether, esters, oxyalkylene or polyoxyalkylene groups. Advantageously, this polyamide of the composition according to the invention has a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000 g / mol, especially ranging from 1,000 to 100,000 g / mol, in particular less than 50,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 1 000 to 50,000 g / mol, and more preferably from 1,000 to 30,000 g / mol, preferably from 2,000 to 20,000 g / mol, and more preferably from 2,000 to 10,000 g / mol. This polyamide is insoluble in water, especially at 25 ° C.

According to a first embodiment of the invention, the polyamide used is a polyamide of formula (I):

X-C K-C-NH-r-N H -j-C-R-C-X

t. m - H * in "2 i,

Where X represents a group -N (R ₁ ) ₂ or a group -ORi in which R 1 is a linear or branched C ₈ -C ₂ alkyl radical, which may be identical to or different from one another, R ₂ is a C 28 -C 42 diacid dimer residue, R ₃ is an ethylene diamine radical, n is 2 to 5; and their mixtures.

According to one particular embodiment, the polyamide used is an amide-terminated polyamide of formula (Ia):

X-1-C-R-C-H-R 1 -NH- * - C- - C-X

^{ 11 HII there

0 0 0 0 _n . in which X represents a group -N (R ₁ ) ₂ in which R 1 is a linear or branched C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl radical, which may be identical or different from one another, R ₂ is a dimer residue diacid C28-C42, R3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is between 2 and 5; and their mixtures.

The fatty phase of a composition according to the invention may furthermore additionally comprise, in this case, at least one additional polyamide of formula (Ib): -CR; ~~ C- NH -R-7 NH-C-R "-cx

II I!

0 0 0 0

(!)

in which X represents a group -ORi in which R 1 is a linear or branched C ₈ to C ₂ 2, preferably C ₁ to C ₂ 2, alkyl radical, which may be identical to or different from each other, R ₂ is a diacid dimer residue C ₂₈ - C ₄₂ , R ₃ is an ethylene diamine radical, n is between 2 and 5, such as commercial products sold by Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100 or Uniclear 80 V, Uniclear 100 V and Uniclear 100 VG, whose INCI name is "ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer".

The silicone polyamides are preferably solid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The silicone polyamides may preferentially be polymers comprising at least one unit of formula III) or (IV):

01}

O

R

-Us- χ- -SiO -SiX- ^» ÏH- - R ') in which:

R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ , which may be identical or different, represent a group chosen from:

saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon groups, in C 1 to C ₄₀ , which may contain in their chain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and which may be substituted in part or totally by fluorine atoms,

C ₆ to C ₁₀ aryl groups, optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl groups, the polyorganosiloxane chains containing or not one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms,

• X, which are identical or different, represent alkylene di-yl, linear or branched Ci to C _30, possibly containing in its chain one or more oxygen atoms and / or nitrogen,

Y is a divalent linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene, saturated or unsaturated, d to C _{50 group} , which may comprise one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and or substitute one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxy, C ₃ -C ₈ cycloalkyl, C ₁ -C ₄₀ alkyl, C ₅ -C ₁₀ aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with 1 to 3 alkyl of -C ₃ hydroxyalkyl d -C ₃ alkyl and amino d -C _6, or

Y represents a group corresponding to the formula

in which

T represents a trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C ₃ to C ₂₄ optionally substituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain, and which may contain one or more atoms selected from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom selected from N, P and Al, and

R ⁸ represents a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₅ alkyl group, or a polyorganosiloxane chain, which may comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulphonamide groups which may or may not be bonded; to another polymer chain,

N is an integer from 2 to 500, preferably from 2 to 200 and m is an integer from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and more preferably from 6 to 200.

According to one particular embodiment, the silicone polyamide comprises at least one unit of formula (III) in which m is from 50 to 200, in particular from 75 to 150, and preferably of the order of 100.

More preferably, R ⁴ , R ⁵ , R ⁶ and R ⁷ independently represent a linear or branched C 1 to C ₄₀ alkyl group, preferably a CH ₃ , C ₂ H ₅ , n C ₃ H ₇ or isopropyl group in the formula formula (III). By way of example of a silicone polymer which can be used, mention may be made of one of the silicone polyamides obtained according to Examples 1 to 3 of US Pat. No. 5,981,680. Mention may be made of the compounds marketed by Dow Corning under the name DC 2-8179. (DP 100) and DC 2-8178 (DP 15) whose INCI name is "nylon61 / dimethicone copolymers" ie nylon-61 / dimethicone copolymers.

The silicone polymers and / or copolymers advantageously have a transition temperature of the solid state in the liquid state ranging from 45 ° C. to 190 ° C. Preferably, they have a solid state transition temperature in the liquid state of from 70 ° C to 130 ° C and more preferably from 80 ° C to 105 ° C.

Hydrocarbon block copolymer

The hydrocarbon block copolymers, also called block copolymers, are chosen from those capable of thickening or gelling the fatty phase of the composition.

By "amorphous polymer" is meant a polymer that does not have a crystalline form. The polymeric gelling agent is preferably also film-forming, that is to say that it is capable of forming a film when it is applied to the skin and / or the lips.

The hydrocarbon block copolymer may in particular be a diblock, triblock, multiblock, radial or star copolymer, or mixtures thereof. Such hydrocarbon block copolymers are described in application US-A-2002/005562 and in US-A-5 221 534. The copolymer may have at least one block whose glass transition temperature is preferably less than 20. ° C, preferably less than or equal to 0 ° C, preferably less than or equal to -20 ° C, more preferably less than or equal to -40 ° C. The glass transition temperature of said block may be between -150 ° C. and 20 ° C., in particular between -100 ° C. and 0 ° C. The hydrocarbon block copolymer present in the composition according to the invention is an amorphous copolymer formed by polymerization of an olefin. The olefin may in particular be an ethylenically unsaturated elastomeric monomer. As an example of an olefin, mention may be made of ethylenic carbide monomers, especially having one or two ethylenic unsaturations, having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethylene, propylene, butadiene, isoprene or pentadiene. .

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and olefin. Particularly preferred are block copolymers comprising at least one styrene block and at least one block comprising units selected from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, butylene, isoprene or a mixture thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrocarbon block copolymer is hydrogenated to reduce the residual ethylenic unsaturations after polymerization of the monomers. In particular, the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is a copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and with ethylene / C 3 -C 4 alkylene blocks.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one diblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, preferably chosen from styrene-ethylene / propylene copolymers, styrene / butadiene copolymers and styrene-ethylene copolymers. / butylene. Diblock polymers are in particular sold under the name Kraton® G1701 E by Kraton Polymers. Advantageously, a diblock copolymer such as those described above, in particular a diblock copolymer of styrene / propylene, or a mixture of diblock, as described above, is used as polymeric gelling agent.

Thus, according to an alternative embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises, as lipophilic gelling agent, at least one hydrocarbon-based block copolymer, preferably a copolymer, optionally hydrogenated, with styrene blocks and with ethylene / C 3 -C 4 alkylene blocks, more preferably selected from a diblock copolymer, preferably hydrogenated, such as a styrene / propylene copolymer, a styrene-ethylene / butadiene copolymer

As a lipophilic agent having suspensive power, mention may also be made of EstoGel M (INCI: CASTOR OIL / IPDI COPOLYMER & CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE) marketed by the company Polymer Expert.

Those skilled in the art will take care to choose the nature and / or the amount of lipophilic agent (s) having suspensive power so as to achieve a viscosity of the desired fatty phase, and in particular to achieve the character (or ability to ) suspensive of said desired fatty phase, especially vis-à-vis the spheres (S1). These adjustments are within the skill of the skilled person.

According to one embodiment, in the compositions of the invention, the content of lipophilic agent (s) having suspensive power is between 0.5% and 99.50%, preferably between 1.5% and 70%, especially between 2.5% and 60%, and preferably between 3% and 50%, or even between 1% and 8%, and more preferably between 2.5% and 6%, by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase, or even with respect to the total weight of the composition .

Oils

The fatty phase of a composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one oil.

The fatty phase may therefore comprise a single oil or a mixture of several oils. The fatty phase according to the invention may therefore comprise at least one, at least two, at least three, at least four, at least five or more of oil (s) as described above. after.

The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.).

As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made for example of:

hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, in particular as described below;

hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene and squalane;

esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R ₁ COOR ₂ and RiOR ₂ in which R 1 represents the residue of a C ₈ to C ₂₉ fatty acid, and R ₂ represents a branched or unbranched C ₃ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon-based chain, such as, for example, purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2- palmitate, hexyl, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetrahehenate (DUB PTB) or pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Prisorine 3631), or Plandool G (INCI: Bisphenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl / Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate);

linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil; silicone oils, for example volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethicones) comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes;

fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), or alternatively octyldodecanol;

partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912;

- and their mixtures.

According to a preferred embodiment, the oil is chosen from esters and synthetic ethers, preferably esters of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ , in which R 1 represents the residue of a C ₈ to C ₂ fatty acid. and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, C ₃ to C ₃₀ .

According to one embodiment, the oil is chosen from fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms.

According to one embodiment, the oil is chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched alkanes, C ₈ -C ₆ (also known as isoparaffins or isoalkanes), for instance isododecane (also known as 2-méthylundécane) isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopar ^® or Permethyls® ^®.

According to another preferred embodiment, the fatty phase of the compositions of the invention comprises an oil chosen from silicone oils. Preferably, the fatty phase does not include other oils other than silicone oils. Preferably, the oils present in the fatty phase are silicone oils. According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 1% by weight of oil (s) relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to another embodiment, a composition according to the invention, in particular the fatty phase of the compositions of the invention, does not comprise polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), and preferably does not comprise silicone oil.

According to another embodiment, a composition according to the invention does not comprise vegetable oil.

According to yet another embodiment, the fatty phase of the compositions according to the invention comprises at least one hydrocarbon oil of plant origin. Examples of vegetable oils that may be mentioned include liquid triglycerides of C ₄ -C ₁₀ fatty acids, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, pumpkin and seed oils. grape, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids (INCI name: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride) such as those marketed by the company Stearineries Dubois or those available under the trade names "Miglyol 810", "Miglyol 812" and "Miglyol 818" by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the vegetable oil is chosen from those rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "unsaturated fatty acid" means a fatty acid comprising at least one double bond. It is more particularly long chain fatty acids, that is to say can have more than 14 carbon atoms. The unsaturated fatty acids may be in acid form, or in salt form, for example their calcium salt, or in the form of derivatives, especially fatty acid ester (s).

Preferably, the continuous fat phase comprises at least one non-volatile oil.

By "non-volatile" is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.02 mm Hg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10 ^-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa).

In particular, mention may be made of non-volatile oils chosen from silicone oils, fluorinated oils or their mixtures, and more particularly from non-volatile, non-phenylated silicone oils; phenylated nonvolatile silicone oils, with or without at least one dimethicone fragment; the oils fluorinated; or mixtures thereof, or non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils, in particular chosen from non-volatile oils comprising at most one free or non-free hydroxyl group, or from non-volatile oils comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups, or non-volatile hydrocarbon oils apolar.

Representative examples of non-volatile, non-phenyl silicone oils that may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes; alkyldimethicones; vinylmethylmethicones; and also silicones modified with aliphatic groups and / or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups.

Among the nonvolatile polar hydrocarbon oils, there may be mentioned ester oils as described above.

Among the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as:

paraffin oil or its derivatives,

- squalane,

isoeicosane,

naphthalene oil,

polybutylenes such as INDOPOL H-100 (of molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), INDOPOL H-300 (MW = 1340 g / mol), INDOPOL H-1500 (MW = 2160 g / mol) mol) marketed or manufactured by AMOCO,

- polyisobutenes

- hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Parleam ^® sold by NIPPON OIL FATS, the Panalane H-300 E sold or manufactured by Amoco (MW = 1340 g / mol), Viseal 20000 sold or manufactured by the SYNTEAL company ( MW = 6000 g / mol), the REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed or manufactured by WITCO (MW = 1000 g / mol), or the PARLEAM LITE marketed by NOF Corporation,

decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, in particular Indopol L-14,

polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: PURESYN 10 (MW = 723 g / mol), PURESYN 150 (MW = 9200 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by MOBIL CHEMICALS, or PURESYN 6 marketed by EXXONMOBIL CHEMICAL)

- and their mixtures. According to a preferred embodiment, the oil is chosen from the group consisting of isononyl isononanoate, dimethicone, polybutene, hydrogenated or not, diisostearyl malate, and mixtures thereof.

The selection of oil (s) satisfying the desired gloss criterion for a composition according to the invention is a general knowledge of the person skilled in the art.

According to one embodiment, the oil content (s) is between 0.5% and 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase of said composition. Preferably, the oil content (s) is greater than 70%, especially greater than 80%, or even greater than 90%, by weight relative to the weight of the fatty phase.

Regardless of the use of dye agent (s) (as mentioned below), the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention remains perfectly transparent, this transparency being unapproachable with conventional gloss / lipstick. in the form of inverse emulsions. This is also an advantage over an emulsion with an anionic polymer co-polymer (carbomer) / cationic polymer (amodimethicone) obtained via a microfluidic process, as described in particular in the application WO 2012/120043, where the amodimethicone tends to "disturb »The oily phase.

Additional compounds

According to the invention, the aqueous phase and / or the fatty phase may further comprise at least one additional compound other than hydrophilic gelling agents, lipophilic agents having suspensive power and oils, or even anionic and cationic polymers, mentioned above. .

A composition according to the invention, in particular the aqueous phase and / or the fatty phase of said composition, can thus additionally comprise, as additional compound, powders, flakes, coloring agents, in particular chosen from water-soluble or non-fat-soluble coloring agents, whether or not organic or inorganic, pigments, optical effect materials, liquid crystals, and mixtures thereof, particulate agents insoluble in the fatty phase, emulsifying and / or non-emulsifying silicone elastomers , especially as described in the application EP 2 353 577, preservatives, humectants, stabilizers, chelators, emollients, agents modifiers selected from pH, osmotic strength agents and / or refractive index modifiers etc. or any conventional cosmetic additive, and mixtures thereof.

A composition according to the invention, in particular the aqueous phase and / or the fatty phase of said composition, may furthermore comprise at least one active agent, in particular a biological or a cosmetic active agent, preferably chosen from moisturizing agents, healing agents, depigmenting agents, UV filters, desquamating agents, antioxidants, active agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromoleculars, dermodecontracting agents, antiperspirants, soothing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, age, perfuming agents and their mixtures. Such assets are described in particular in application FR 1 558 849.

In particular, the fatty phase may further comprise at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer, in particular as described in application FR 3025100 or WO 2016/030842, and for example the polymer sold under the names FA 4002 ID (TIB 4 -202) or FA 4001 CM (TIB 4-230) by Dow Corning. The presence of such a polymer makes it possible to improve the resistance over time, in particular the gloss resistance over time, and if necessary while maintaining a viscosity of the fatty phase compatible with the microfluidic device. In addition, it makes it possible to reduce the migration phenomena of the composition applied to a keratin material, in particular the skin or the eyelids.

According to one embodiment, the content by weight of hydrophobic polymer (s) film (s) is between 0.1% and 40%, in particular between 0.2% and 20%, preferably between 0, 5% and 15%, based on the weight of the fatty phase.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention does not comprise a hydrophilic film-forming polymer, in particular such as described in FR 3 025 100, and / or tackifying resin, in particular such as described in FR 3 025 099.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional compound (s) and / or active (s) mentioned above and / or their respective amounts so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention do not are not or not substantially impaired by the addition envisaged. In particular, the nature and / or the amount of the additional compound (s) and / or active (s) depends (s) on the aqueous nature or fat of the phase considered of the composition according to the invention. These adjustments are within the skill of the skilled person.

Coloring agent

According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one coloring agent.

According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase and / or the fatty phase comprises / comprise at least one coloring agent.

When the fatty phase of a composition according to the invention comprises at least one coloring agent, said composition has a compromise "transparency / coloring lips" advantageous. Indeed, in the presence of such a coloring agent, the dispersion is colored but has a transparency such that the spheres (S1) remain perfectly visible. On application, the coloration of the lips is real, which may seem surprising, given the transparency of the composition before application.

In the context of the invention, and unless otherwise stated, the term "coloring agent" or "coloring agent" is intended to mean a material intended to give the composition a coloration, and in particular a durable coloration. By "coloring" is meant for example white, black, and any other color of the visible spectrum, such as blue, red, yellow ... optionally in iridescent, shiny or any other known forms.

In other words, the term "coloring agent" in the sense of the present invention, a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when it is formulated in sufficient quantity in a suitable cosmetic medium.

For the purposes of the present invention, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one coloring agent chosen from water-soluble or non-fat-soluble, organic or inorganic, liposoluble or non-soluble dyes, optical effect materials, liquid crystals, and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble coloring agent" is intended to mean any generally organic compound, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible and colorable solvents. In particular, it is intended to characterize, by the term water-soluble, the ability of a compound to solubilize in water, measured at 25 ° C., at a concentration of at least 0.1 g / l (obtaining a macroscopically isotropic and transparent solution, colored or not). This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g / l. A coloring agent according to the invention is preferably chosen from pigments, dyes, liquid crystals and their mixtures.

Preferably, the coloring agent is chosen from dyes.

According to the invention, the dyes are typically essentially soluble in their environment of use, as defined in particular in DIN 55944 (December 201 1).

According to one embodiment, the coloring agent according to the invention is chosen from optically effective materials.

The particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from:

particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative,

particles comprising an organic or inorganic substrate, monomaterial or multimaterial, at least partially covered by at least one metal-reflecting layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and

mixtures of said particles.

Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te. Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (e.g., bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

"Metal derivatives" means compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulphides.

According to one embodiment, the coloring agent according to the invention is chosen from liquid crystals. According to the invention, the term "liquid crystal" or "liquid crystal type dye" means liquid crystals dyeing the composition, that is to say providing a coloration to said composition as specified above. The liquid crystals are typically characterized by an intermediate state between the crystalline phase, where there is a three-dimensional positional order and the liquid phase where no order exists.

Alternatively, the color effect of the fat phase can be achieved by the implementation of naturally colored oil (s), such as Rocou oil, Lipocarotte, or gremil extract from the dyers. According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase of a composition of the invention comprises between 0.0001% and 15% by weight of agent (s) dye (s), preferably dye (s), relative to weight of the aqueous phase.

According to one embodiment, the fatty phase of a composition of the invention comprises between 0.0001% and 15% by weight of agent (s) dye (s), preferably dye (s), relative to weight of the fatty phase.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 2%, in particular less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, and in particular less than 0.1% by weight of pigments relative to the total weight of said composition.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention, in particular the fatty phase, is devoid of pigments.

According to one embodiment, when the aqueous phase and / or the fatty phase comprises at least one coloring agent, in particular at least one dye, said aqueous phase and / or said fatty phase, preferably at least the fatty phase additionally comprises UV sunscreens, so as to prevent / avoid changes in unwanted hues.

According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase may further comprise glycerine.

Preferably, a composition of the invention comprises at least 2%, preferably at least 5%, in particular at least 10%, in particular at least 20%, or at least 30%, or even at least 40%, or at least less than 50% by weight of glycerin relative to the weight of the aqueous phase. The limits of the formulation are therefore pushed back with this type of raw material without altering the finish on the keratin material.

Other embodiments

According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous phase comprises an intermediate phase, the intermediate phase being placed in contact with the fatty phase, and at least one internal phase disposed in the intermediate phase. Such an embodiment corresponds to spheres with a "drop-in-drop" architecture. In other words, the internal phase is disposed completely away from the fatty phase, the intermediate phase being interposed between the or each internal phase and the fatty phase. The intermediate phase is therefore characterized by the aqueous phase as described above.

The inner phase may be hydrophilic or lipophilic in nature. The inner phase can be solid or liquid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

The internal phase may further comprise at least one gelling agent and / or any additional compound / active agent, especially as described above.

According to another particular embodiment:

the aqueous phase may be in the form of a direct emulsion (oil-in-water), the said emulsion comprising a continuous aqueous phase and a dispersed fatty phase in the form of drops (G 2), the size of the drops (G 2) being necessarily less than the size of the spheres (S1). In particular, the size of the drops (G2) is less than 500 μηι, preferably less than 400 μηι, in particular less than 300 μηι, better than 200 μηι, in particular less than 100 μηι, or even less than 20 μηι, and better than 10 μηι. Preferably, the size of the drops (G2) is between 0.1 μηι and 200 μηι, preferably between 0.25 μηι and 100 μηι, in particular between 0.5 μηι and 50 μηι, preferably between 1 μηι and 20 μηι. , and better between 1 μηι and 10 μηι, or even between 3 μηι and 5 μηι;

and or

the fatty phase may be in the form of an inverse emulsion (water-in-oil), the said emulsion comprising a continuous fatty phase and an aqueous phase dispersed in the form of drops (G3), the size of the drops (G3); preferably being microscopic. In particular, the droplet size (G3) is less than 500 μηι, preferably less than 400 μηι, in particular less than 300 μηι, better than 200 μηι, in particular less than 100 μηι, or even less than 20 μηι, and better than 10 μηι. Preferably, the size of the drops (G3) is between 0.1 μηι and 200 μηι, preferably between 0.25 μηι and 100 μηι, in particular between 0.5 μηι and 50 μηι, preferably between 1 μηι and 20 μηι. , and better between 1 μηι and 10 μηι, or even between 3 μηι and 5 μηι.

Optionally, the drops (G2) and / or (G3) comprise a bark formed of at least one anionic polymer, in particular a carbomer, and at least one cationic polymer, in particular an amodimethicone, said anionic and cationic polymers being as defined above.

Advantageously, the drops (G2) and / or (G3) are not macroscopic, and are therefore microscopic, that is to say, not visible to the naked eye. In other words, the drops (G2) and / or (G3) are different and independent of the spheres (S1).

These drops (G2) and / or (G3) of reduced size allow to have an effect on the texture. Indeed, a composition according to the invention comprising such drops (G2) and / or (G3) finely dispersed has yet improved lubricity qualities.

The presence of the drops (G2) and / or (G3) reinforces the characteristics of a composition according to the invention in terms of unique texture, lightness and evolutive sensory. More particularly, a composition according to the invention comprising drops (G2) and / or (G3) spread easily on a keratinous material, in particular the lips. This texture is particularly advantageous and surprising to the skilled person.

A composition according to the invention is mainly dedicated to the makeup and / or care of keratin materials, in particular the lips and / or the eyelids. Those skilled in the art will be able to make the adjustments in terms of the nature and / or quantity of the raw materials to focus the composition according to the invention on the makeup or care of keratin materials, in particular with regard to the choice of oils that may be used. implemented in the fatty phase.

Process

The compositions according to the invention can be prepared by various methods.

At the level of the manufacturing process, a composition according to the invention is advantageously produced in a single step in that there is no prior step of forming the spheres (S1) before mixing with the suspensive fatty phase, which is advantageous on the industrial level.

Thus, the compositions according to the invention have the advantage of being able to be prepared according to a simple "non-microfluidic" method, namely by simple emulsification. As in a conventional emulsion, an aqueous solution and a fat solution (or oily) are prepared separately.

They can also be prepared, as indicated previously, by a "microfluidic" method, in particular as described in international applications WO 2012/120043 or WO 2015/055748, and in particular in "jet jet" mode (in English: jetting). (by formation of a liquid jet at the exit of the microfluidic device, then fragmentation of the jet in the ambient air under the effect of gravity) or drip (in English: dripping) as described in the application WO 2012/120043.

In order to prepare a composition according to the invention, an internal fluid (IF) is used to form the dispersed aqueous phase and, to constitute the continuous fat phase, an external fluid (OF).

In view of the above, the fluid (IF) comprises at least one hydrophilic gelling agent and water, and additionally, optionally, at least one additional component as mentioned above.

The fluid (OF) comprises at least one lipophilic agent having suspensive power, preferably at least one oil, and in addition, optionally, at least one additional component as mentioned above.

According to one embodiment, the process for preparing a composition according to the invention comprises a step of contacting a fluid (IF) and a fluid (OF) as defined above.

Depending on the nature and / or the content of hydrophilic gelling agent (s) and lipophilic agent (s) having suspensive power, the step of contacting the fluids (IF) and (OF) must be with an aqueous phase and / or a fatty phase previously heated to a temperature assuring them a liquid character sufficient for:

a homogeneous mixture and a good formation of the spheres (S1) if the process is non-microfluidic, or

a good formation of the spheres (S1) in the fatty phase if the process is microfluidic (with the optional cooling device postfabrication spheres (S1) to faster solidify the spheres (S1) and thus prevent their alteration).

According to yet another embodiment, when the fluid (IF) comprises at least one heat-sensitive gelling agent and / or the fluid (OF) comprises at least one lipophilic agent having a heat-sensitive suspensory power, as described above, the preparation method an emulsion according to the invention may require the implementation of at least fluid (IF) and / or (OF) at a temperature of 40 ° C to 150 ° C. Thus, according to this embodiment, the fluid (IF) and / or (OF) can be heated at a temperature of from 40 ° C to 150 ° C.

In the case where the process for preparing an emulsion according to the invention is a microfluidic process, the microfluidic device as such is advantageously heated to a temperature of 40 ° C to 150 ° C.

uses

The compositions according to the invention can in particular be used in the cosmetics field.

They may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned ingredients, at least one physiologically acceptable medium.

By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium which is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to keratin materials, in particular the skin, the lips, the nails, the eyelashes or the eyebrows, and preferably the skin.

The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged.

According to one embodiment, the physiologically acceptable medium is the aqueous continuous phase as described above.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions are used for the makeup and / or care of keratin materials, especially the skin.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be skincare, sun protection, cleaning (makeup removal), hygiene or make-up products for the skin.

These compositions are therefore intended to be applied especially to the skin.

Thus, the present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition mentioned above, as a makeup, hygiene, cleaning and / or care product for keratinous substances, in particular the skin.

According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention are in the form of a foundation, a makeup remover, a facial and / or body and / or hair care, anti age, a sunscreen, a oily skin care, a whitening care, a moisturizer, a BB cream, tinted cream or foundation, a face and / or body cleanser , a shower gel or a shampoo. A care composition according to the invention can be in particular a solar composition, a care cream, a serum or a deodorant.

The compositions according to the invention may be in various forms, in particular in the form of cream, balm, lotion, serum, gel, gel-cream or mist.

In particular, the compositions according to the invention are intended to be applied to the lips or the eyelids.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of gloss (or lip gloss), lipstick, concrete, eyeliners or eye gloss.

The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method for the cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, in particular the lips and / or the eyelids, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin material at least one composition as defined herein. -above.

In particular, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, in particular the lips and / or the eyelids, comprising a step of applying to the skin at least one layer of a cosmetic composition as defined above.

Throughout the description, the phrase "comprising one" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless the opposite is specified.

The expressions "between ... and ...", "from ... to ..." and "from ... to ..." must be understood as inclusive, unless otherwise specified.

The amounts of the ingredients in the examples are expressed as percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.

The following examples illustrate the present invention without limiting its scope. EXAMPLES

Example 1 Preparation of an Eye Gloss by a Non-Microfluidic Process

The table below indicates the ingredients of the final composition (eye gloss) as well as the nature of the different phases used.

Preparation of the aqueous phase (IF)

a) The A1 are mixed together with stirring at 85 ° C. until a homogeneous mixture is obtained,

b) A2 is added to the mixture a) without stirring and allowed to stand for 15 minutes until hydration of B2; then, stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, c) adding A3 to the mixture b) with stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, so as to obtain aqueous NF.

Preparation of the oily phase (OF)

a) mixing the B1 together with stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, and

b) the B2 is added until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, so as to obtain the oily FO.

Preparation of the composition of the invention

a) The oily FR at 85 ° C. and aqueous NF at 85 ° C. are available.

b) aqueous NF is added at 85 ° C. in the oily filler at 85 ° C. with stirring, and c) when the mixture b) is at 40 ° C., C is added with stirring.

The eye gloss according to Example 1 has both a high gloss and hydration capabilities, freshness and comfort to the application particularly satisfactory. This satisfactory degree of gloss is accompanied by a good behavior over time and a feeling in terms of tackiness and curbing the acceptable application.

Examples 2 to 5: Preparation of cosmetic compositions according to the invention

The composition according to Example 2 is a transparent lip gloss formulation obtained by a microfluidic method in dripping mode.

The composition according to Example 3 is a lip gloss formula for the lipids in the fatty phase and obtained by a microfluidic method in dripping mode.

The composition according to Example 4 is a lip gloss formula for the aqueous phase colored lips obtained by a microfluidic method in dripping mode.

The composition according to Example 5 is a gloss formula for the lips obtained by a microfluidic process in jetting mode.

The phases used to prepare these formulations are as follows: - Aqueous phase (IF)

- Oily phase (OF)

Preparation of the aqueous phase (IF)

a) The B1 are mixed together with stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained,

b) B2 is added to the mixture a) without stirring and allowed to stand for 15 minutes until hydration of B2; then, stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained,

c) in parallel, a mixture is prepared with B3 at 90 ° C. until a homogeneous mixture is obtained in liquid form (melted),

d) adding the mixture c) to the mixture b), with stirring at 90 ° C, until a homogeneous mixture is obtained so as to obtain aqueous NF, and

e) when present, add B4 to mixture d).

Preparation of the oily phase (OF)

a) The A1 are mixed together with stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained,

b) adding A2 to the mixture a) with stirring and stirring until a homogeneous mixture, and

c) when present, the A3 are added with stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained so as to obtain the oily FO.

Preparation of compositions

The compositions according to Examples 2 to 5 are obtained by a microfluidic process, namely a double-wall microfluidic nozzle as described in WO2012 / 120043, the internal diameter of the outlet of the nozzle is 0.8 mm.

At the level of the microfluidic device, the parameters are as follows:

Ex 2 Ex 3 Ex 4 Ex 5 Ex 6

OF flow (in mL / h / nozzle) 100 100 80 300 100

IF flow rate (in mL / h / nozzle) 5 5 4 35 3

T ° C FROM TA TA TA TA TA

T ° C IF 85 90 85 90 80

% IF in the composition

4.76 4.76 4.76 9.1 2.91 final

% OF in the

95.24 95.24 95.24 90.9 97.09 final composition

Dripping Dripping Dripping Jetting Dripping In addition to a new visual linked to the presence of macroscopic aqueous bubbles in the oily continuous phase and a transparency / translucency of the compositions, these lip gloss compositions have both a high gloss and hydration, freshness and comfort to the application particularly satisfactory. This degree of satisfactory gloss is accompanied by a good behavior over time without a feeling of stickiness or braking application nor braking application.

Finally, the composition according to Example 6 has an oily continuous phase with a satisfactory transparency.

Example 7 Preparation of a perfume concrete by a microfluidic method in dripping mode

The phases used to prepare this formulation are as follows:

- Aqueous phase (IF)

- Oily phase (OF)

Preparation of the aqueous phase (IF)

a) The B1 are mixed together with stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, b) B2 is added to the mixture a) without stirring and allowed to stand for 15 minutes until hydration of B2; then, stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained,

c) in parallel, a mixture is prepared with the B3 at 90 ° C. until a homogeneous mixture is obtained in liquid form (melted), and

d) the mixture c) is added to the mixture b), with stirring at 90 ° C, until a homogeneous mixture is obtained so as to obtain aqueous NF.

Preparation of the oily phase (OF)

b) on the one hand, the mixture is heated (a) to 80 ° C. and, on the other hand, the A2 are heated to 80 ° C., and

c) adding the A2 in liquid form (melted) to the mixture a), until a homogeneous mixture is obtained so as to obtain the oily FO.

Preparation of the composition of the invention

The composition according to Example 7 is obtained according to a microfluidic process, namely a double-wall microfluidic nozzle as described in WO2012 / 120043, the internal diameter of the outlet of the nozzle is 0.8 mm.

The parameters are as follows:

The composition according to Example 7 is in the form of a perfume concrete at room temperature (RT).

In addition to a novel visual linked to the presence of macroscopic aqueous bubbles in the oily continuous phase, this composition has both an important perfuming power and a satisfactory melting sensoriality. EXAMPLE 8 Preparation of a Cosmetic Composition (Serum) by Microfluidic Process at Room Temperature

The phases used to prepare this formulation are as follows

- Aqueous phase (IF)

^* Sufficient quantity for

- Oily phase (OF)

Preparation of the aqueous phase (IF)

b) B2 is added to the mixture a) with Silverson stirring (2500 rpm) until a homogeneous mixture (approximately 15 minutes) is obtained,

c) adding B3 without stirring and allowing B3 to hydrate (about 15 minutes); then stirred with Rayneri until a homogeneous mixture, d) adding the B4 to the mixture c) with stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, and

e) B5 is added to the mixture d) with stirring until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

Preparation of the oily phase (OF)

a) The A1 are mixed together with vigorous stirring at 95 ° C. for 1 hour. b) In parallel, the A2 are mixed with stirring at 80 ° C.

b) mixture (b) is added to mixture a) and stirred at 80 ° C. until a homogeneous mixture is obtained,

c) the A3 are added to the mixture b), until a homogeneous mixture is obtained, and

d) is allowed to cool to room temperature and then used to form the composition according to Example 8.

Preparation of the composition of the invention

The composition according to Example 8 is obtained according to a microfluidic process, namely a double-skin microfluidic nozzle as described in WO 2012/120043.

The parameters are as follows:

^* TA = Ambient temperature

The composition according to Example 8 is in the form of a serum at room temperature (RT).

In addition to a new visual linked to the presence of macroscopic aqueous bubbles in the oily continuous phase, this composition has both a texture and a satisfactory sensoriality.

A composition according to Example 8 was also carried out without amodimethicone in the oily phase, with a visual, a texture and a satisfactory sensoriality.

Claims

1. Composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising a fatty phase and an aqueous phase, in which:

The composition of claim 1, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is selected from the group consisting of natural texturing agents, semi-synthetic texturing agents, synthetic texturing agents, and mixtures thereof.

3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from natural heat-sensitive texturing agents, in particular agar-agar.

4. Composition according to claim 1 to 3, wherein the content of gelling agent (s) hydrophilic (s) is between 0.1% and 15%, preferably between 0.3% and 10%, preferably between 0.5% and 5%, especially between 0.8% and 3%, in particular between 1% and 2%, by weight relative to the weight of the aqueous phase of said composition.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the content of gelling agent (s) hydrophilic (s) is between 0.5% and 0.9% by weight relative to the weight of aqueous phase of said composition.

6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the aqueous phase comprises at least two hydrophilic gelling agents, at least one being a heat-sensitive hydrophilic gelling agent.

FIRE I LLE RECTI FIED (RULE 91) ISA / EP

7. Composition according to claim 1 to 6, wherein the content of hydrophilic gelling agent (s) hydrosensitive (s) is between 0.1% and 15%, preferably between 0.3% and 10%, preferably between 0.5% and 5%, especially between 0.8% and 3%, in particular between 1% and 2%, and even between 0.3% and 0.8%, by weight relative to the weight of aqueous phase of said composition.

8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the content of aqueous phase is between 1% and 30%, especially between 1, 5% and 20%, in particular between 2% and 10%, of preferably between 3% and 7%, and preferably between 4% and 6%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the fatty phase content is between 70% and 99%, preferably between 70% and 95%, especially between 75% and 90%, and preferably between 80% and 85%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the lipophilic agent having a suspending power is chosen from organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents; solid fatty substances at room temperature and pressure; and their mixtures.

11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the lipophilic agent having a suspending power is selected from silicas such as pyrogenic silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 1 1, wherein the content of lipophilic agent (s) having suspensive power is between 0.5% and 99.50%, preferably between 1, 5% and 70%, in particular between 2.5% and 60%, and preferably between 3% and 50%, or even between 1% and 8%, and more preferably between 2.5% and 6%, by weight by weight. relative to the total weight of the fatty phase, or even relative to the total weight of the composition.

13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the fatty phase comprises at least one oil, preferably at least one

FIRE I LLE RECTI FIED (RULE 91) ISA / EP non-volatile oil, the oil content (s) being preferably between 0.5% and 99% by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase of said composition.

14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, comprising at least one coloring agent in the aqueous phase and / or the fatty phase.

15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it does not comprise surfactant.

16. Non-therapeutic method for the cosmetic treatment of a keratinous material, in particular the lips and / or the eyelids, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous material at least one composition according to any one of Claims 1. at 15.

FIRE I LLE RECTI FIED (RULE 91) ISA / EP