FR3076218A1 - GELIFIED COMPOSITION COMPRISING AN AQUEOUS MICRODISPERSION OF WAX (S) - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, in particular a makeup and / or care composition for keratin materials, comprising: at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; and at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; said phases forming a macroscopically homogeneous mixture, characterized in that said gelled aqueous phase further comprises an aqueous microdispersion of an effective amount of wax particles having a hardness at 20 ° C greater than or equal to 6 MPa and a melting temperature greater than or equal to 60 ° C, stabilized by at least one polyoxyethylenated glycerol monostearate. The invention also relates to a process for preparing such a composition and its use for preventing and / or treating the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines.

Description

The present invention aims to propose, for the field of care and make-up of keratin materials, in particular of the skin and / or the lips, and in particular of the skin, a new dosage form which is particularly advantageous with regard to its technical performance and the sensory feelings it provides to the user when applied to them, in particular to the skin.

By “keratin materials” is meant in particular the skin, the lips and / or the eyelashes, in particular the skin and / or the lips, and preferably the skin.

Skin aging results from the effects on the skin of intrinsic and extrinsic factors. During the aging process, an alteration of the structure and skin functions appears. The main clinical signs due to these changes in skin metabolism are the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles caused by sagging and loss of tissue elasticity.

In addition, intrinsic aging, which induces changes in the skin, causes in particular a slowing down of the renewal of skin cells, which essentially results in the appearance of clinical alterations such as the reduction of subcutaneous adipose tissue. and the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles, and by histopathological changes such as an increase in the number and thickness of elastic fibers, loss of vertical fibers of the elastic tissue membrane, and the presence of large irregular fibroblasts in the cells of this elastic tissue.

The invention is primarily concerned with fine lines and wrinkles, sagging skin and subcutaneous tissue and the radiance of the skin. The sagging skin and subcutaneous tissue results in a sluggish skin texture, sagging skin microrelief, diminished skin firmness and generally loose skin.

It is known to treat these signs of aging by using cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing active agents capable of fighting against aging. These active ingredients generally act on wrinkles by removing dead skin cells and accelerating the cell renewal process.

However, these active agents have the disadvantage of being effective for the treatment of wrinkles only after a certain time of application.

However, current needs are tending more and more towards obtaining compositions making it possible to obtain an immediate effect, rapidly leading to a smoothing of wrinkles and / or fine lines and to the disappearance, even temporary, of signs of fatigue.

It has already been proposed to obtain these immediate changes in the microrelief of the skin by applying a composition with a tightening effect.

We speak of a tightening effect to describe the mechanical smoothing effect which will be able to reduce or even make wrinkles and fine lines disappear immediately. This tightening effect is linked to the occurrence of two joint phenomena: the development of mechanical stresses during the drying of the composition and the formation of a cohesive and adhesive deposit allowing these stresses to be maintained on the treated area.

The document FR 2 758 083 relates to an anti-wrinkle composition containing polymeric tensing agents in aqueous dispersion, capable of forming a film causing the retraction of the stratumcomeum, that is to say the superficial stratum corneum of the epidermis.

The use of these tensor polymer systems however sometimes gives an impression of discomfort to some users. In addition, the tightening effect they provide does not last very long since the film formed on the skin tends to crack under the effect of facial expressions. These tensing agents indeed form on the skin a relatively rigid and not very deformable film.

It has also already been proposed to use a microdispersion of wax in a topical composition to treat wrinkles, fine lines and / or fight against sagging skin and / or subcutaneous and / or revive the radiance of the skin, as described in patent application EP 0 934 743.

However, such compositions, comprising tensing polymer systems or fatty substances and formulated as emulsions, do not have a satisfactory tensor efficacy in particular because their effect does not last during the day. In addition, these compositions are generally suitable only for a specific area of application, namely the eye area.

There has also been proposed, as described in document WO 2005/092284, a cosmetic method for reducing wrinkles comprising the application of a cosmetic composition comprising a tensing agent and a fatty phase dispersion of solid particles of a polymer grafted ethylenic.

However, the tensing agents formulated in the various skincare compositions of the known prior art are generally not perceived by consumers as being comfortable. In particular, the hydration and sensory perception of such treatments are not satisfactory. In fact, they are generally associated with a sticky feel, the appearance of lint and a lack of perception of nutrition in the skin.

Thus, it remains difficult to reconcile in the same composition, in particular make-up and / or care for keratin materials, opposing technical performances such as the prevention and / or reduction of the visibility of wrinkles and fine lines, in particular by tightening effect, and the feeling of comfort on the skin, which lasts over time, and especially throughout the day.

There therefore remains a need for cosmetic compositions, applicable in particular to the skin of the face, making it possible to reduce the visibility of wrinkles, in particular through a durable contractile mechanical action, without compromising the comfort of the skin.

The present invention aims precisely to meet this need.

Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a composition, in particular cosmetic, in particular for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, comprising:

- at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; and

- at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; said phases forming therein a macroscopically homogeneous mixture, characterized in that said gelled aqueous phase further comprises an aqueous microdispersion of an effective amount of wax particles having a hardness at 20 ° C greater than or equal to 6 MPa and a melting temperature greater than or equal to 60 ° C., stabilized by at least one polyoxyethylenated glycerol monostearate.

Compositions, called gel-gel, are already proposed in the cosmetic field. This type of formulation combines a gelled aqueous phase with a gelled oily phase. Thus, gel / gel formulations are described in Almeida et al., Pharmaceutical Development and Technology, 2008, 13: 487, Tables 1 and 2, page 488; WO 99/65455; PI 0405758-9; WO 99/62497; JP 2005-112834 and WO 2008/081175. However, to the knowledge of the inventors, this type of composition does not at present make it possible to conceal and smooth out imperfections in relief without altering the other expected cosmetic performances.

Against all expectations, the inventors have found that the incorporation of an aqueous microdispersion of an effective amount of wax particles as defined above makes it possible to improve the performance of mechanical stresses during drying and of adhesion to the skin and cohesion of a composition having a gel-gel architecture.

Without wishing to be limited to a specific theory, the organization into nanometric size particles of the wax makes it possible to obtain a structured deposit after drying, which gives advantageous mechanical properties to the entire composition.

In addition, the inventors have found that the sensory properties of the composition are retained, or even improved, with rapid drying on application ("grip" effect), strong fixation and a dry and natural feel after application.

As can be seen from the examples given below, the compositions according to the invention exhibit both a tightening effect and a comfort, immediate and lasting.

Another subject of the invention, according to another of its aspects, is a process for preparing a composition according to the invention, comprising at least the following steps:

i) have an aqueous mixture comprising at least one polyoxyethylenated glycerol monostearate and an effective amount of at least one wax having a hardness at 20 ° C. greater than or equal to 6 MPa and a melting temperature greater than or equal to 60 ° VS ;

ii) heating the mixture of step i) to a temperature greater than or equal to the melting temperature of said wax and / or of the mixture of waxes;

iii) cooling the mixture of step ii) below the crystallization temperature of the wax and / or the mixture of waxes, in order to obtain an aqueous microdispersion of an effective quantity of wax particles having a hardness to 20 ° C greater than or equal to 6 MPa and a melting temperature greater than or equal to 60 ° C, stabilized by at least one polyoxyethylenated glycerol monostearate;

iv) adding at least one hydrophilic gelling agent to said aqueous microdispersion;

v) have an oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent;

vi) mixing said gelled aqueous and oily phases under conditions suitable for obtaining a macroscopically homogeneous mixture.

Another subject of the invention is, according to another of its aspects, a cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials and / or keratin fibers, in particular the skin and / or lips, comprising at least one application step on said keratin materials and / or keratin fibers of a composition according to the invention.

Another subject of the invention, according to another of its aspects, is a cosmetic, non-therapeutic process for attenuating and / or erasing wrinkles and / or fine lines from the skin, comprising a step of applying to the skin a composition as defined above.

Another subject of the invention, according to another of its aspects, is the non-therapeutic use of a composition as defined according to the present invention for preventing and / or treating the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines.

Cosmetic composition

First of all, it is important to note that a composition according to the invention is different from an emulsion.

An emulsion generally consists of an oily liquid phase and an aqueous liquid phase. It is a dispersion of droplets from one of the two liquid phases in the other. The size of the droplets forming the dispersed phase of the emulsion is typically of the order of a micrometer (0.1 to 100 μm). In addition, an emulsion requires the presence of a surfactant or an emulsifier to ensure its stability over time.

Conversely, a composition according to the invention consists of a macroscopically homogeneous mixture of two immiscible gelled phases. These two phases both have a gel-like texture. This texture is reflected in particular visually by a consistent and / or creamy appearance.

The term "macroscopically homogeneous mixture" means a mixture in which each of the gelled phases cannot be individualized with the naked eye.

More specifically, in a composition according to the invention, the gelled aqueous phase and the gelled oily phase interpenetrate and thus form a stable and consistent product. This consistency is achieved by mixing the interpenetrating macro-domains. These interpenetrated macro-domains are not measurable objects. Thus, under the microscope, the composition according to the invention is very different from an emulsion. A composition according to the invention can also not be characterized as having a "sense", ie an O / W or W / O sense.

The stability of the composition is durable without surfactant. Consequently, a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, according to the invention does not require a surfactant or a silicone emulsifier to ensure its stability over time.

It is known from the state of the art to observe the intrinsic nature of a mixture of aqueous and oily gels in a gel-type composition (bi-continuous system), for example, by introducing a coloring matter either into the aqueous gelled phase either in the lipophilic gelled phase, before the formation of the gel-type composition (bi-continuous system). During visual inspection, in a gel-type composition (bi-continuous system), the coloring matter appears to be uniformly dispersed, even if the coloring is present only in the gelled aqueous phase or in the gelled oily phase. Indeed, if two different dyes of distinct colors are introduced respectively in the oily phase and in the aqueous phase, before the formation of the gel-type composition (bi-continuous system), the two colors can be observed as uniformly dispersed throughout the gel-type composition (bi-continuous system). This is different from an emulsion in which, if a dye, soluble in water or soluble in oil, is introduced respectively in the aqueous and oily phases, before forming the emulsion, only the color of the dye will be observed. present in the external phase (Remington: The Science and Practice of Pharmacy, 19th Edition (1995), Chapter 21, page 282).

In the case of the present invention, the test which will be favored for distinguishing a gel-type composition (bi-continuous system) from an emulsion is a dilution test. In fact, in a gel-type composition (bi-continuous system), the aqueous and oily gelled domains interpenetrate and form a consistent and stable composition, in which the behavior in water and in oil is different from the behavior of an emulsion. Consequently, the behavior during dilution of a gel-type composition (bi-continuous system) can be compared to that of an emulsion.

More specifically, the dilution test consists of putting 40 g of product and 160 g of dilution solvent (water or oil) in a 500 ml plastic beaker. The dilution is carried out with controlled stirring to avoid any emulsification phenomenon. In particular, this is done using a planetary motion mixer: Speed Mixer TM DAC400FVZ. The speed of the mixer is set at 1500 rpm for 4 minutes. Finally, the observation of the resulting sample is carried out using an optical microscope at a magnification of x 100 (xlOxlO). It can be noted that the oils such as Parleam® and Xiameter PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 5CS® sold by Dow Corning are suitable as dilution solvent in the same way as one of the oils contained in the composition.

In the case of a gel-type composition (bi-continuous system), when it is diluted in oil or in water, a heterogeneous appearance is always observed. When a gel-type composition (bi-continuous system) is diluted in water, pieces of oily gel are observed in suspension and when a gel-type composition (bi-continuous system) is diluted in oil, pieces of aqueous gel in suspension are observed.

On the contrary, during dilution, the emulsions exhibit a different behavior. An O / W emulsion, when diluted in an aqueous solvent, gradually reduces without presenting a heterogeneous and lumpy appearance. This same O / W emulsion, when diluted with the oil, has a heterogeneous appearance (pieces of O / W emulsion suspended in the oil). A W / O emulsion, when diluted with an aqueous solvent, has a heterogeneous appearance (pieces of W / O emulsion suspended in water). This same W / O emulsion, when diluted in oil, gradually reduces without presenting a heterogeneous and lumpy appearance.

According to the present invention, the aqueous gelled phase and the oily gelled phase forming a composition according to the invention are present there in a weight ratio varying from 95/5 to 5/95. More preferably, the aqueous phase and the oily phase are present in a weight ratio varying from 60/40 to 85/15.

The ratio between the two gelled phases is adjusted according to the cosmetic properties sought.

Thus, in the case of a care composition, in particular of the face, it will be advantageous to favor a weight ratio aqueous gelled phase / oily gelled phase greater than 1, in particular varying from 55/45 to 95/5, preferably varying from 60/40 to 85/15.

These preferred ratios are particularly advantageous for obtaining fresh and light compositions.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention can therefore be in the form of a creamy gel having a minimum stress below which it does not flow, unless it has been subjected to an external mechanical stress.

As follows from what follows, a composition according to the invention may have a minimum threshold stress of 1.5 Pa and in particular greater than 10 Pa.

It can also advantageously have a stiffness modulus G * at least equal to 400 Pa, and preferably greater than 1000 Pa.

According to an advantageous alternative embodiment, the gelled phases considered to form a composition according to the invention may respectively have a threshold stress greater than 1.5 Pa, and preferably greater than 10 Pa.

The characterization of the threshold stresses is carried out by rheology measurements in oscillation. A methodology is proposed in the exemplification chapter of this text.

Generally, the corresponding measurements are carried out at 25 ° C. using an imposed constraint rheometer, RS600 HAAKE, equipped with a plane-plane measuring body (diameter 60 mm) provided with a device. anti-evaporation (bell). For each measurement, the sample is gently placed and the measurements begin 5 minutes after the sample is placed in the air gap (2 mm). The composition tested is then subjected to a stress ramp of 10 ^-2 to 10 ³ Pa at a frequency fixed at 1 Hz.

A composition according to the invention can also have a certain elasticity. This elasticity can be characterized by a modulus of rigidity G * which under this threshold of minimum stress can be at least equal to 400 Pa, and preferably greater than 1000 Pa. The G * value of a composition can be obtained by subjecting the composition considered at a stress ramp of 10 ^-2 to 10 ³ Pa at a frequency fixed at 1 Hz.

Aqueous microdispersion

As mentioned previously, the gelled aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention comprises at least one aqueous microdispersion of an effective quantity of wax particles having a hardness at 20 ° C. greater than or equal to 6 MPa and a higher melting temperature or equal to 60 ° C., stabilized by at least one polyoxyethylenated glycerol monostearate.

The term "aqueous microdispersion of wax particles (s)" means an aqueous dispersion of wax particles (s) in which the size of said wax particles is less than or equal to about 1 μm.

The microdispersions of wax (es) are stable dispersions of colloidal particles of wax (es), and are notably described in the document “Microemulsions Theory andpractice” L.M. Prince Ed., Academy Press (1977) pages 21-32.

In particular, these microdispersions of wax can be obtained, according to the prior art, by melting the wax in the presence of a surfactant, and possibly part of the water, then progressive addition of hot water with stirring. The intermediate formation of a water-in-oil type emulsion is observed, followed by a phase inversion with final production of an oil-in-water type microemulsion. On cooling, a stable microdispersion of solid colloidal wax particles is obtained.

Document WO 2005/007280 also describes a process for obtaining microdispersions of wax (es) in which the mixture of molten wax and surfactant is gradually poured onto the complementary part of water which is initially at a temperature below 15 ° C.

The wax particles of the microdispersion of wax particles defined according to the invention preferably have an average size of less than 1 μm, in particular less than 0.5 μm, and preferably between 50 nm and 300 nm.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the aqueous microdispersion of wax particles according to the invention is present in a content of microdispersed waxes of between 5% and 45% by weight, preferably of between 8% and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hard wax (es)

As indicated previously, the aqueous microdispersion comprises an effective quantity of wax particles, known as hard wax, having a hardness at 20 ° C. greater than or equal to 6 MPa and a melting temperature greater than or equal to 60 ° C.

By “effective amount” is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, an amount sufficient to obtain the expected effect, namely a stable aqueous microdispersion capable of imparting to the final gel / gel composition containing it a tensor effect and comfort to the application.

The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER.

Preferably, the measurement protocol is as follows:

A 5 mg sample of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then is cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the wax sample is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in absorbed power as a function of the temperature.

The wax used in a microdispersion of wax particles defined according to the present invention more particularly has a melting temperature between 60 ° C and 120 ° C, preferably between 70 ° C and 100 ° C.

The hardness is determined by measuring the compressive force measured at 20 ° C using the texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2Î by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm. moving at the measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, and entering the wax at a penetration depth of

0.3 mm. The hardness value corresponds to the maximum compression force measured in

Newton divided by the surface area of the texturometer cylinder expressed in mm ² in contact with the wax.

The wax used in a microdispersion of wax particles defined according to the present invention more particularly has a hardness of between 6 MPa and 25 MPa, in particular between 6 MPa and 15 MPa, preferably between 6 MPa and 10 MPa.

As examples of so-called hard wax according to the invention, having a melting point above 60 ° C., there may be mentioned in particular Carnauba wax, candelilla wax, BisPeg-12 Dimethicone Candelillate wax such as, for example , Siliconyl Candelilla Wax marketed by the company KOSTER KEUNEN, hydrogenated Jojoba wax such as, for example, that marketed by the company DESERT WHALE, rice bran wax, ceresin waxes, Chinese insect wax, Shellac wax, the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl or behenic alcohol, for example that which are sold under the names Phytowax Ricin® 16L64 and Phytowax Ricin® 22L73 by the company SOPHIM, Hydrogenated camelina, Ouricury wax, Montan wax, ozokerite waxes such as, for example, Wax SP® 1020P sold by the company Strahl & Pitsch, microcrystalline waxes such as, for example the, that sold under the trade name Microwax® HW by the company PARAMELT, polyethylene waxes such as, for example, those sold under the trade names Performalene® 400 polyethylene, Performalene® 655 polyethylene and Performalene® 500-L polyethylene by the company New Phase Technologies, alcohol-polyethylene waxes such as, for example, that sold under the name Performacol® 425 Alcohol by the company BARECO, the ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer 95/5 sold under the trade name wax AC® 540 by the Honeywell, hydroxyoctacosanyl hydroxystearate, such as, for example, that sold under the trade name Elfacos® C26 by AKZO, octacosanyl stearate, such as, for example, that sold under the name Rester Wax® K82H by the company KOSTER KEUNEN, stearyl stearate such as, for example, that sold under the name Liponate® SS by the company LIPO CHEMICALS, pentaerythritol distearate such as, for example, that marketed under the name Cutina® PES by the company COGNIS, pentaerythrityl tetrastearate such as, for example, Liponate® PS-4 from the company Lipo Chemicals, tetracontanyl stearate such as, for example, Rester Wax® K76 H from the company KOSTER KEUNEN, behenyl fumarate such as, for example, Marrix® 222 from the company AKZO BERNEL, didotriacontanyl distearate such as, for example, the Rester Wax® K82D from the company KOSTER KEUNEN, polyethylene glycol montanate with 4 oxyethylene units (PEG-4) such as, for example, that which is sold under the trade name Clariant Licowax® KST1, hexanediol disalycilate such as, for example , Betawax® RX-13750 marketed by the company CP Hall, ditrimethylolpropane tetrabéhenate like, for example, that which is sold under the trade name Hest® 2T- 4B by the company HETERENE, the esters of Jojoba such as, for example, that which is sold under the trade name Floraester® 70 by the company FLORATECH, synthetic wax of the Fischer-Tropsch type such as that marketed under the reference Rosswax® 100 by ROSS, stearic alcohol, behenic alcohol.

The waxes mentioned above can also be used in the form of commercially available mixtures, for example, KPC-60 (mixture of 87.5% by weight of stearyl stearate, of 7.5% by weight of alcohol behenic and 5% by weight of palm kernel glycerides) and KPC-63 (mixture of 87.5% by weight of behenyl stearate, 7.5% by weight of behenic alcohol and 5% by weight of palm glycerides kernel). from KOSTER KEUNEN.

Preferably, plant-based waxes such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, rice bran wax, stearyl and behenic alcohols, uricury wax are used.

The hard wax (es) is (are) preferably polar.

By “polar” wax is meant a wax whose solubility parameter calculated beyond its melting point ô _a is different from 0 (J / cm3)! / 2.

In particular, by “polar” wax is meant a wax whose chemical structure is formed essentially, even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one highly electronegative heteroatom such as an oxygen atom. , nitrogen, silicon or phosphorus.

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the three-dimensional solubility space of HANSEN are described in the article by C. M. HANSEN: The three dimensionnai solubility parameters J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).

According to this Hansen space:

- ôd characterizes the LONDON dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks;

- δ _ρ characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;

- ô _h characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonds, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.);

- δ _a is determined by the equation: ô _a = (δ _ρ ² + ôh ² ) ^1/2

The parameters δ _ρ , ôh, ôd and ô _a are expressed in (J / cm3)! / 2.

According to one embodiment, the wax of a microdispersion of wax particles defined according to the invention is chosen from carnauba wax, microcrystalline waxes, candelilla wax and their mixtures, and preferably is wax of carnauba.

Additional wax (s)

According to another embodiment, an aqueous microdispersion of wax particles defined according to the invention may comprise at least one additional wax, called “soft wax”, having a hardness at 20 ° C. of less than 6 MPa, preferably between 1 MPa and 5.5 MPa and a melting temperature less than or equal to 65 ° C, preferably between 30 ° C and 60 ° C.

As wax having a hardness of less than 6 MPa, mention may be made in particular of beeswax, oxyethylenated beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, silicone beeswax, synthetic beeswax, hydrogenated castor oil, lanolin wax, paraffin wax, Bayberry wax, oxyethylenated mango wax, orange wax, cupuaçun butter MuruMuru butter, lemon wax, polymethylene wax , silicone copolyol esters.

Preferably, such an additional wax can be chosen from beeswax, oxyethylenated beeswax, paraffin wax and their mixtures, and preferably from beeswax, oxyethylenated beeswax and their mixtures.

Thus, according to a preferred embodiment of the invention, an aqueous microdispersion of wax particles defined according to the invention comprises carnauba wax or a mixture of carnauba wax and beeswax, optionally oxyethylenated.

As indicated above, an aqueous microdispersion of wax particles can comprise a content of microdispersed wax between 5% and 45% by weight, and preferably between 8% and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Polyoxyethylenated glycerol monostearate

Polyoxyethylenated glycerol monostearate is a nonionic surfactant ester of fatty acid and polyoxyalkylenated glycerol ether.

It stabilizes the aqueous microdispersion defined above, that is to say that it is capable of dispersing the wax particles (s) defined above in an aqueous phase.

Preferably, the polyoxyethylenated glycerol monostearate used according to the present invention comprises between 20 and 200 oxyethylene groups, preferably between 30 and 100 oxyethylene groups. More preferably, it comprises 30 oxyethylene groups.

As an example of polyoxyethylenated glycerol monostearate which is more particularly suitable for carrying out the present invention, mention may be made of that sold under the name TAGAT S® by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT.

The polyoxyethylenated glycerol monostearate can be present in a composition according to the invention so that the weight ratio of polyoxyethylenated glycerol monostearate / wax (es) in said aqueous microdispersion is between 0.1 and 0.4, and preferably is included between 0.2 and 0.3.

Hydrophilic gelling agent

“Hydrophilic gelling agent” is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, a compound capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention.

The gelling agent is hydrophilic and is therefore present in the aqueous phase of the composition.

The gelling agent can be water-soluble or water-dispersible.

As specified above, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention is gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent.

The hydrophilic gelling agent can be chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, natural or natural polymeric gelling agents, mixed silicates and fumed silicas, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent can be chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, natural or natural polymeric gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent can be chosen from natural polymeric gelling agents of natural origin, more precisely polysaccharides, synthetic polymeric gelling agents and preferably from associative polymers, polyacrylamides, polymers and copolymers of acid 2 -acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic, carboxyvinyl polymers and mixtures thereof.

I. Natural or natural polymeric gelling agents

The hydrophilic polymeric gelling agents which are suitable for the invention may be natural or of natural origin.

Within the meaning of the invention, the expression “of natural origin” is intended to denote the polymeric gelling agents obtained by modification of the natural polymeric gelling agents.

These gelling agents can be particulate or non-particulate.

More specifically, these gelling agents come under the category of polysaccharides.

Generally speaking, polysaccharides can be distinguished into several categories.

Thus, the polysaccharides suitable for the invention can be homopolysaccharides such as fructans, glucans, galactans and mannans or heteropolysaccharides such as hemicellulose.

Similarly, they can be linear polysaccharides like Pullulan or branched like Arabian Gum and Amylopectin, or mixed like Starch.

More particularly, the polysaccharides suitable for the invention can be distinguished according to whether they are starchy or not.

As a representative of the starch polysaccharides may be mentioned very particularly, native starches, modified starches and particulate starches.

According to an alternative embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is non-starchy.

In general, the non-starch polysaccharides can be chosen from the polysaccharides produced by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae, polysaccharides from higher plants, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and its derivatives or fructosans, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gum arabics, galactomannans, glucomannans, pectins, and their derivatives ; and their mixtures.

The compounds of this type, which can be used in the present invention, can be chosen from those which are in particular described in “Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KirkOthmer, Third Edition, 1982, volume 3, pp. 896-900, and volume 15, pp 439-458 ", in" Polymers in Nature, by EA Mc GREGOR and CT GREENWOOD, Editions John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp 240-328, 1980 ", in the book by Robert L. DAVIDSON entitled “Handbook of Water soluble gums and resins” published by Mc Graw Hill Book Company (1980) and in the industrial Gums “Polysaccharides and their Dérivatives, Published by Roy L. WHISTLER,

Second Edition, Edition Academie Press Inc. ”.

Such a gelling agent can be used at a rate of 0.1% to 8% by weight in dry matter relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, in particular from 0.1% to 6% by weight, preferably between 0, 5% and 2.5% by weight, in particular at a rate of approximately 1%, or alternatively at a rate of approximately 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

II. Synthetic polymeric gelling agents

Within the meaning of the invention, the term synthetic signifies that the polymer is neither naturally existing nor does it derive from a polymer of natural origin.

The synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent considered according to the invention may or may not be particulate.

Within the meaning of the invention, the term particulate means that the polymer is in the form of particles, preferably spherical.

According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents.

As is clear from what follows, the polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent is advantageously chosen from crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or co-polymers; associative polymers, in particular associative polymers of polyurethane type; polyacrylamides and polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, crosslinked and / or neutralized; carboxyvinyl polymers, modified or not, and mixtures thereof, in particular as defined below.

Preferably, the hydrophilic polymeric gelling agent is advantageously chosen from associative polymers, polyacrylamides and polymers and copolymers of 2acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, carboxyvinyl polymers, and more preferably from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido acid 2 -sulfonic methylpropane.

The particulate synthetic polymeric gelling agents are preferably chosen from crosslinked polymers.

They may especially be cross-linked acrylic homopolymers or co-polymers, preferably partially neutralized or neutralized, which are in particulate form.

Thus, preferably, the particulate gelling agent according to the present invention is chosen from crosslinked sodium polyacrylates, preferably in the form of particles having an average size (or average diameter) less than or equal to 100 microns, more preferably in the form of particles. spherical.

Such gelling agents can be used at a rate of 0.1% to 5% by weight in dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.15% to 2% by weight, and in particular at a rate of about 0.2% to 1.7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The non-particulate synthetic polymeric gelling agents are preferably chosen from associative polymers, polyacrylamides and polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2 methylpropane sulfonic acid, crosslinked and / or neutralized, and modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers.

By “associative polymer” within the meaning of the present invention, is meant any amphiphilic polymer comprising in its structure at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic portion. The associative polymers in accordance with the present invention can be anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric.

Among the associative anionic polymers, mention may be made, according to a preferred embodiment, of the copolymers comprising, among their monomers, an α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and an ester of α, βmonoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of a fatty alcohol. oxyalkylenated.

Preferably, these compounds also comprise, as monomer, an ester of α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and of C1-C4 alcohol.

Mention may also be made in particular of the anionic terpolymer of 2-methyl2 - [(l-oxo-2-propenyl] amino] 1-propanesulfonic acid partially or totally salified in the form of ammonium salt, Ν, Ν-dimethylacrylamide and tetraethoxylated lauryl acrylate and crosslinked with trimethylol propanetriacrylate, name INCI Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 such as the product sold under the trade name Sepimax Zen® by the company Seppic.

As cationic associative polymers, mention may be made of polyacrylates containing amino side groups.

The nonionic associative polymers can be chosen from:

- copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and hydrophobic fatty chain monomers;

- copolymers of methacrylates or of Ci-C6 alkyl acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain;

- copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain such as for example the polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer;

- associative polyurethanes.

According to a preferred embodiment, a non-ionic polyurethane type associative polymer is used as the gelling agent.

Among the associative amphoteric polymers of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of those described in patent application WO 98/44012.

The amphoteric polymers which are particularly preferred according to the invention are chosen from copolymers of acrylic acid / acrylamide propyl trimethyl ammonium chloride / stearyl methacrylate.

According to a preferred embodiment, the associative polymer is chosen from nonionic associative polymers and more particularly from associative polyurethanes, such as the Steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI Copolymer sold under the name Rheolate FX 1100 by Elementis.

Such an associative polymer is advantageously used in an amount of 0.1% to 8% by weight in dry matter and preferably between 0.5% and 4% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

The polymers used which are suitable as an aqueous gelling agent for the invention may be homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked or non-crosslinked comprising at least the 2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid monomer (AMPS®), in partially or totally neutralized form by a mineral base other than ammonia such as soda or potash.

They are preferably completely or almost completely neutralized, i.e. at least 90% neutralized.

These AMPS® polymers according to the invention can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

When the polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from olefinically polyunsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of the polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

Mention may be made, for example, as crosslinking agents, of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol-diallylether, polyglycol-diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol-divinyl ether, hydroquinone-diallyl ether, di (meth) acrylate. ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol, trimethylol propane triacrylate, methylene-bis-acrylamide, methylene-bis-methacrylamide, triallylamine, triallylcyanurate, diallylmaleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetra-allylethyl-ethanol-trimlylethyl-ethanol meth) allyl acrylate, allyl ethers of alcohols from the sugar series, or other allyl- or vinyl-ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, as well as allyl esters of derivatives of phosphoric acid and / or vinylphosphonic acid , or mixtures of these compounds.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA). The crosslinking rate generally ranges from 0.01% to 10% by mole and more particularly from 0.2% to 2% by mole relative to the polymer.

The AMPS® polymers suitable for the invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible. They are in this case:

- or "homopolymers" comprising only AMPS monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above;

- Or copolymers obtained from AMPS® and one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above. When said copolymers contain hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, the latter do not contain a fatty chain and are preferably present in small amounts.

“Fat chain” is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, any hydrocarbon chain containing at least 7 carbon atoms.

By “water-soluble or water-dispersible” is meant polymers which, introduced into an aqueous phase at 25 ° C., at a mass concentration equal to 1%, allow a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution to be obtained, that is to say having a maximum light transmittance value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, at least 60%, preferably at least 70%.

The “homopolymers” according to the invention are preferably crosslinked and neutralized, and they can be obtained according to the preparation process comprising the following steps:

(a) dispersing or dissolving the monomer such as AMPS in free form in a solution of tert-butanol or of water and of tert-butanol;

(b) the solution or dispersion of monomer obtained in (a) is neutralized with one or more mineral or organic bases, preferably ammonia NH3, in an amount making it possible to obtain a rate of neutralization of the sulfonic acid functions of the polymer ranging from 90% to 100%;

(c) adding the crosslinking monomer (s) to the solution or dispersion obtained in (b);

(d) a conventional radical polymerization is carried out in the presence of free radical initiators at a temperature ranging from 10 ° C to 150 ° C; the polymer precipitating in the solution or dispersion based on tert-butanol.

The water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymers of AMPS® according to the invention contain water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers or their mixtures.

The water-soluble co-monomers can be ionic or non-ionic.

Among the ionic water-soluble comonomers, mention may be made, for example, of the following compounds and their salts:

- (meth) acrylic acid,

- styrene sulfonic acid,

- vinylsulfonic acid and (meth) allylsulfonic acid,

- vinyl phosphonic acid,

- maleic acid,

- itaconic acid,

- crotonic acid,

- the water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (A) below:

H, C = CR.

CO ^<A>

x, in which:

- Ri is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7;

- Xi is chosen from alkyl oxides of type -OR2 where R2 is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted by at least one sulfonic group (-SO3-) and / or sulfate (-SO4-) and / or phosphate (-PO4H2-).

Among the nonionic water-soluble co-monomers, there may be mentioned, for example:

- (meth) acrylamide,

- N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl N-vinylacetamide,

- N-vinylformamide and N-methyl N-vinylformamide,

- maleic anhydride,

- vinylamine,

- N-vinyllactams comprising a cyclic alkyl group having from 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,

- vinyl alcohol of formula CH2 = CHOH,

- the water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (B) below:

H, C = CR, έο P "

I

X ^λ 2 in which:

- R3 is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7;

- X2 is chosen from alkyl oxides of type -OR4 where R4 is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbons, optionally substituted by a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine , fluorine); a hydroxy group (-OH); ether.

Examples include glycidyl (meth) acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, and (meth) acrylates of ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol.

Among the hydrophobic comonomers without a fatty chain, there may be mentioned for example:

- styrene and its derivatives such as 4-butylstyrene, alpha methylstyrene and vinyltoluene;

- vinyl acetate of formula CH2 = CH-OCOCH3;

- vinyl ethers of formula CH2 = CHOR in which R is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbons;

- Γ acrylonitrile;

- caprolactone;

- vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride;

- silicone derivatives, leading after polymerization to silicone polymers such as methacryloxypropyltris (trimethylsiloxy) silane and silicone methacrylamides;

- the hydrophobic vinyl monomers of formula (C) below:

H, C = CR eo ^(C)

I ^X 3 in which:

- R4 is chosen from H, -CH3, -C2H5 or -C3H7;

- X3 is chosen from alkyl oxides of type -OR5 where R5 is a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

Examples include methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl (meth) acrylate, tert-butyl (meth) acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate and isobornyl acrylate and 2-hexyl ethyl acrylate.

The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® polymers of the invention preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50,000 g / mole to 10,000,000 g / mole, preferably from 80,000 g / mole to 8,000,000 g / mole, and even more preferably from 100,000 g / mole to 7,000,000 g / mole.

As water-soluble or water-dispersible homopolymers of AMPS suitable for the invention, mention may be made, for example, of crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of acrylamide-2-methyl propane sulfonate such as that used in the commercial product Simulgel 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), crosslinked polymers of acrylamide-2-methyl propane ammonium sulfonate (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide) such as those described in patent EP 0 815 928 B1 and such as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS ® by the company Clariant.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises an AMPS® homopolymer.

In particular, such an AMPS® homopolymer can be present in a composition according to the invention in a content of between 0.1% and 5% by weight, preferably between 0.15% and 3% by weight, and more preferably between 0.2% and 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

As water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymers of AMPS in accordance with the invention, there may be mentioned for example:

- crosslinked acrylamide / acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate copolymers such as that used in the commercial product SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / Ci3-Ci4 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) or that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate-80) by the company Seppic;

- the copolymers of AMPS® and of vinylpyrrolidone or of vinylformamide such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Aristoflex AVC® by the company Clariant (name CTFA: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer) but neutralized by soda or potash ;

- AMPS® and sodium acrylate copolymers, such as for example the AMPS / sodium acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel EG® by the company Seppic or under the trade name Sepinov EM (last name

CTFA: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer);

- the copolymers of AMPS® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as for example the copolymer AMPS® / hydroxyethyl acrylate such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS® by the company Seppic (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer (And) Squalane (And) Polysorbate 60) or as the product marketed under the name Acrylamido-2-Methylpropane Sulfonate / Hydroxyethylacrylate copolymer as the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10 (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate ).

As water-soluble or water-dispersible copolymers of preferred AMPS in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of the copolymers of AMPS® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate.

In general, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 8% by weight in dry matter, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight in dry matter and more preferably from 0.15 % to 2.5% by weight in dry matter of polyacrylamide (s) and / or polymer (s) and copolymer (s) of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, crosslinked (s) and / or neutralized (s) ) relative to the total weight of the composition.

The carboxyvinyl polymers, modified or not, may be copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one monomer (a) chosen from carboxylic acids containing a, b-ethylenic unsaturation or their esters, with at least one monomer (b) containing ethylenic unsaturation comprising a hydrophobic group.

Among said polymers above, very particularly preferred according to the present invention, acrylate / Cio-C3o-alkylacrylate copolymers (INCI name: Acrylates / Cio-30 Alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer) such as the products sold by the company Lubrizol under the names Pemulen TR-1, Pemulen TR-2, Carbopol 1382, Carbopol EDT 2020, Carbopol Ultrez 20 Polymer and even more preferably Pemulen TR-2.

Among the carboxyvinyl polymers modified or not, mention may also be made of sodium polyacrylates such as those sold under the name Cosmedia SP® containing 90% dry matter and 10% water, or Cosmedia SPL® in reverse emulsion containing approximately 60% dry matter, an oil (hydrogenated polydecene) and a surfactant (PPG-5 Laureth-5), both sold by the company Cognis.

Mention may also be made of partially neutralized sodium polyacrylates being in the form of a reverse emulsion comprising at least one polar oil, for example that sold under the name Luvigel® EM by the company BASF.

The modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers can also be chosen from crosslinked (meth) acrylic acid homopolymers.

Among the carboxyvinyl polymers modified or not, mention may in particular be made of Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) and Pemulen (CTFA name: Acrylates / Cio-30 akyl acrylate crosspolymer) sold by the company Lubrizol.

The carboxyvinyl polymers, modified or not, can be present in an amount of 0.1% to 5% by weight in dry matter relative to the weight of the aqueous phase, in particular from 0.3% to 1% by weight, preferably between 0.4% and 1% relative to the weight of the aqueous phase.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises a synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid.

According to a preferred variant, the synthetic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent is a homopolymer of AMPS®.

III. Other hydrophilic gelling agents

These gelling agents are more particularly chosen from mixed silicates and fumed silicas.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “mixed silicate” means all the silicates of natural or synthetic origin containing several (two or more) types of cations chosen from alkali (for example Na, Li, K) or alkaline-earth metals ( e.g. Be, Mg, Ca), transition metals and aluminum.

In particular, it is a silicate or a mixture of silicates of alkali or alkaline earth metals, of aluminum or of iron.

Preferably, it is sodium, magnesium and / or lithium silicate.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the silicates are phyllosilicates, namely silicates having a structure in which the S1O4 tetrahedra are organized in sheets between which the metal cations are found.

The mixed silicates suitable for the invention can be chosen, for example, from montmorillonites, hectorites, bentonites, beidellite, saponites. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the mixed silicates used are more particularly chosen from hectorites and bentonites, and even better from laponites.

A particularly preferred family of silicates in the compositions of the present invention is that of the laponites.

Such gelling agents can be used in an amount of 0.1% to 8% by weight in dry matter relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, in particular from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and in particular from 0 , 5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

The fumed silicas according to the present invention are hydrophilic.

Hydrophilic fumed silicas are obtained by continuous flame pyrolysis at 1000 ° C of silicon tetrachloride (SiCI4) in the presence of hydrogen and oxygen. Among the hydrophilic fumed silicas which can be used according to the present invention, there may be mentioned in particular those sold by the company DEGUSSA or EVONIK DEGUSSA under the trade names AEROSIL® 90, 130, 150, 200, 300 and 380, or also by the company CABOT under the name Carbosil H5.

Such gelling agents can be used at a rate of 0.1% to 10% by weight in dry matter relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, in particular from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and in particular from 0 , 5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

Lipophilic gelling agent

The term "lipophilic gelling agent" within the meaning of the present invention, a compound capable of gelling the oily phase of the compositions according to the invention.

The gelling agent is lipophilic, therefore present in the oily phase of the composition.

The gelling agent is liposoluble or lipodispersible.

As appears from what follows, the lipophilic gelling agent is advantageously chosen from particulate gelling agents chosen from polar and apolar waxes, modified clays, silicas such as fumed silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers, dextrin esters, hydrogen-bonded polymers chosen from hydrocarbon polyamides and silicone polyamides, and mixtures thereof.

I. Particulate gelling agents

The particulate gelling agent used in the composition according to the invention is in the form of particles, preferably spherical.

As a representative of the lipophilic particulate gelling agents which are suitable for the invention, mention may be made particularly of waxes, polar and apolar, modified clays, silicas such as fumed silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels.

The waxes, within the meaning of the invention, can be those generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields. They can in particular be polar or apolar, silicone and / or fluorinated hydrocarbons, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin.

Apolar waxes can be chosen from microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite, polyethylene waxes, and mixtures thereof.

The polar waxes can in particular be hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated or silicone-based. Preferably, the polar waxes can be hydrocarbon-based.

Can be used as ester wax, those chosen from the waxes of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O , N or P and whose melting point temperature ranges from 25 to 120 ° C, di (trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate, diesters waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R ³ (- OCO-R ⁴ -COO-R ⁵ ), in which R ³ and R ⁵ are identical or different, preferably identical and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R ⁴ represents a C4-C30 aliphatic group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) branched linear which may or may not contain one or more unsaturation (s), and preferably linear and unsaturated. Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having fatty chains, linear or branched, of C8-C32, for example such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, as well as the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol; beeswax, synthetic beeswax, polyglycerolated beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, oxypropylenated lanolin wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, Orange wax, Laurel wax, hydrogenated Jojoba wax , sunflower wax, lemon wax, olive wax, berry wax.

According to another embodiment, the polar wax can be an alcohol wax. As alcohol wax, there may be mentioned for example the wax C30-50 Alcohols Performacol® 550 Alcohol sold by the company New Phase Technologie, stearic alcohol, cetyl alcohol.

It is also possible to use silicone waxes which can advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably with a low melting point.

In the context of the present invention, mention may be made, as particularly advantageous waxes, of polyethylene waxes, jojoba wax, candelilla wax and silicone waxes, in particular candelilla wax.

They can be present in the oily phase at a rate of 0.5% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the oily phase, for example between 5% and 20% of the oily phase, and more particularly from 2% to 15 % by weight relative to the weight of the oily phase.

The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one lipophilic clay.

The clays can be natural or synthetic and are made lipophilic by treatment with an alkyl ammonium salt such as a C 10 -C 22 ammonium chloride, for example di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride.

They can be chosen, preferably, from bentonites, in particular hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolite, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites.

Preferably, they are chosen from hectorites.

Preferably, as lipophilic clays, hectorites modified with a C 10 -C 22 ammonium chloride are used, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, that sold under the name Bentone 38V® by the company Elementis or the bentone gel in isododecane marketed under the name Bentone Gel ISD V® (Isododecane 87% / Disteardimonium Hectorite 10% / Propylene carbonate 3%) by the company Elementis.

Lipophilic clay may in particular be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 10%, more particularly from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, as a gelling agent, a fumed silica or particles of silica airgel.

Particularly suitable for the invention, fumed silica treated hydrophobically at the surface. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica.

Silanol groups can in particular be substituted by hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

The fumed silicas can be present in a composition according to the present invention in a proportion of between 0.1% and 40% by weight, more particularly between 1% and 15% by weight and even more particularly between 2% and 10 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

The oily phase of a composition according to the invention can also comprise, as gelling agent, at least particles of silica airgel.

The aerogels used according to the present invention are preferably hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).

Preferably, hydrophobic silica airgel particles modified on the surface by trimethylsilyl groups, preferably with the name INCI Silica silylate, will be used.

As hydrophobic silica aerogels which can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned for example Γ airgel marketed under the name VM-2260 or VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size of around 1000 microns and a specific surface per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m ² / g.

Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201, Aerogel OGD 201, Aerogel TLD 203, ENOVA® Aerogel MT 1100, ENOVA Aerogel MT 1200.

We will preferably use commercial airgel marketed under the name VM-2270 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 at 800 m ² / g.

Preferably, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles are present in the composition according to the invention in a dry matter content ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight. weight, preferably from 0.2% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

II. Organopolysiloxane elastomer

According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises as lipophilic gelling agent at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer.

It is more particularly a crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer.

The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer. Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises an organopolysiloxane elastomer devoid of polyoxyalkylene units and of polyglyceryl unit.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane elastomer used in the present invention is chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name), and in particular Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer.

Non-emulsifying elastomers are notably described in patents EP 242,219, EP 285,886, EP 765,656 and in application JP-A-61-194009.

As non-emulsifying elastomers, use may more particularly be made of those sold under the names "KSG-6", "KSG-15", "KSG-16", "KSG-18", "KSG-41", "KSG-42" , "KSG-43", "KSG-44", by the company Shin Etsu, "DC9040", "DC9041", by the company Dow Corning, "SFE 839" by the company General Electric.

According to a particular embodiment, a silicone elastomer gel dispersed in a silicone oil chosen from a non-exhaustive list comprising cyclopentadimethylsiloxane, dimethicones, dimethylsiloxanes, methyl trimethicone, phenylmethicone, phenyldimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, and cyclomethicone, is used. preferably a linear silicone oil chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or dimethicones with a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 500 and at 25 ° C, optionally modified by aliphatic groups, optionally fluorinated, or by functional groups such as groups hydroxylated, thiols and / or amines.

Mention may in particular be made of the following INCI name compounds:

- Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "USG-105" and "USG-107A" from the company Shin Etsu; "DC9506" and "DC9701" from the company Dow Corning,

- Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone, such as "KSG-6" and "KSG-16" from the company Shin Etsu;

- Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Cyclopentasiloxane, such as "KSG-15";

- Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC9040", "DC9045" and "DC5930" from the company Dow Corning;

- Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC9041" from the company Dow Corning;

- Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "Dow Corning EL9240® silicone elastomer blend" from the company Dow Corning (mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with hexadiene / polydimethylsiloxane (2 cSt));

- C4-24 Alkyl Dimethicone / DivinylDimethicone Crosspolymer, such as NuLastic Silk MA by the company Alzo.

As examples of silicone elastomers dispersed in a linear silicone oil which can advantageously be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the following references:

- Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) Dimethicone, such as "KSG-6" and "KSG-16" from the company Shin Etsu;

- Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "DC9041" from the company Dow Corning; and

- Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, such as "Dow Corning EL9240® silicone elastomer blend" from the company Dow Corning (mixture of polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked by Hexadiene / Polydimethylsiloxane (2 cSt)).

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked silicone elastomer of INCI name "dimethicone crosspolymer" or "dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer", preferably with a dimethicone of viscosity ranging from 1 to 100 is, in particular from 1 to 10 is at 25 ° C., such as the mixture of Polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked by Hexadiene / Polydimethylsiloxane (5cst) marketed under the name DC 9041 by the company Dow Corning or the mixture of Polydimethylsiloxane crosslinked with Hexadiene / Polydimethylsiloxane (2cst) marketed under the name EL-9240® by the company Dow Corning.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked silicone elastomer of INCI name "dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer", with preferably a dimethicone having a viscosity ranging from 1 to 100 is, in particular from 1 at 10 is at 25 ° C., such as the mixture of Hexadiene cross-linked Polydimethylsiloxane / Polydimethylsiloxane (5 cst) sold under the name DC 9041 by the company Dow Corning.

The particles of organopolysiloxane elastomers can also be used in powder form, mention may in particular be made of the powders sold under the names "Dow Corning 9505 Powder", "Dow Coming 9506 Powder" by the company Dow Corning, these powders are for INCI name: dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.

The organopolysiloxane powder can also be coated with silesquioxane resin, as described for example in US patent 5,538,793.

Such elastomer powders are sold under the names "KSP-100", "KSP-101", "KSP-102", "KSP-103", "KSP-104", "KSP-105" by the company Shin Etsu, and have the name INCI: vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane Crosspolymer.

As examples of organopolysiloxane powders coated with silsesquioxane resin which can advantageously be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of the reference "KSP-100" from the company Shin Etsu.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked silicone elastomer preferably of INCI name: vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane Crosspolymer as an oily gelling agent and / or a fuzzy filler, preferably as a gelling agent oily and blurred load.

As a preferred lipophilic gelling agent of the organopolysiloxane elastomer type, mention may in particular be made of the crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomers chosen from Dimethicone Crosspolymer (name INCI), Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer (name INCI), Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer ( INCI name), Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (INCI name), Dimethicone Crosspolymer-3 (INCI name), and in particular Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone Crosspolymer, more preferably Dimethicone Crosspolymer.

The organopolysiloxane elastomer may be present in a composition of the present invention in an amount of between 5% and 60% by weight of active material (dry), in particular between 10% and 50% by weight, preferably between 15% and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

The organopolysiloxane elastomer may be present in a composition of the present invention in an amount of between 0.2% and 25% by weight of active material (dry), in particular between 1% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

III. Semi-crystalline polymers

The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one semi-crystalline polymer. Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymer has an organic structure, and a melting temperature greater than or equal to 30 ° C.

By “semi-crystalline polymer” is meant within the meaning of the invention, polymers comprising a crystallizable part and an amorphous part and having a reversible phase change temperature of the first order, in particular of melting (liquid solid transition). The crystallizable part is either a side chain (or pendant chain) or a sequence in the skeleton.

Preferably, the semi-crystalline polymers of the invention are of synthetic origin.

According to a preferred embodiment, the semi-crystalline polymer is chosen from homopolymers and copolymers comprising units resulting from the polymerization of one or more monomers carrying hydrophobic crystallizable side chain (s), polymers carrying at least one crystallizable block in the backbone, polycondensates of polyester, aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic / aromatic type, ethylene and propylene copolymers prepared by metallocene catalysis, and acrylate / silicone copolymers.

The semi-crystalline polymers which can be used in the invention can be chosen in particular from block copolymers of polyolefins with controlled crystallization, the monomers of which are described in EP 0 951 897, polycondensates and in particular of polyester, aliphatic or aromatic or aliphatic type / aromatic, ethylene and propylene copolymers prepared by metallocene catalysis, homo- or co-polymers carrying at least one crystallizable side chain and homo- or co-polymers carrying in the backbone at least one crystallizable block, such as those described in document US 5,156,911, such as the (CioC3o) alkyl polyacrylates corresponding to the Intelimer® from the company Landec described in the brochure "Intelimer® polymers", Landec IP22 (Rev. 4-97) and for example the product Intelimer® IPA 13 -1 from the company Landec, which is a stearyl polyacrylate with a molecular weight of approximately 145,000 and the temperature of which re melting is equal to 49 ° C., the homo- or co-polymers carrying at least one crystallizable side chain in particular with fluorinated group (s), as described in document WO 01/19333, the acrylate copolymers / silicone, such as copolymers of acrylic acid and stearyl acrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of stearyl methacrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts, copolymers of acrylic acid and stearyl methacrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts, methacrylate copolymers methyl, butyl methacrylate, ethyl-2-hexyl acrylate and stearyl methacrylate with polydimethylsiloxane grafts. Mention may in particular be made of the copolymers marketed by the company SHIN-ETSU under the names KP-561 (name

CTFA: acrylates / dimethicone), KP-541 (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone and Isopropyl alcohol), KP-545 (CTFA name: acrylates / dimethicone and Cyclopentasiloxane), and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the amount of semi-crystalline polymer (s), preferably chosen from semi-crystalline polymers with crystallizable side chains, represents from 0.1% to 30% by weight in dry matter relative to the total weight of the oily phase, for example from 0.5% to 25% by weight, better still from 5% to 20%, or even from 5% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

IV. Dextrin esters

The composition according to the invention may comprise, as lipophilic gelling agent, at least one dextrin ester.

In particular, the composition preferably comprises at least one ester of dextrin and of fatty acid, preferably of C12 to C24, in particular of C14 to Cis, or their mixtures.

Preferably, the dextrin ester is a dextrin and C12-C18 fatty acid ester, in particular C14-C18.

Preferably, the dextrin ester is chosen from dextrin myristate and / or dextrin palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin myristate, such as that especially sold under the name of Rheopearl MKL-2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.

According to a preferred embodiment, the dextrin ester is dextrin palmitate. This can for example be chosen from those marketed under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® or Rheopearl® KL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.

In a particularly preferred manner, the oily phase of a composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.1% to 30% by weight of dextrin ester (s), preferably from 2% to 25% and preferably from 7 , 5% to 17% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

In a particularly preferred manner, the composition according to the invention can comprise between 0.1% and 10% by weight of dextrin palmitate, preferably between 0.5% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the oily phase. The dextrin palmitate can in particular be that sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® or Rheopearl®

KL2 by the company Chiba Flour Milling.

V. Hydrogen-bonded polymers

As a representative of the hydrogen-bonded polymers which are suitable for the invention, mention may very particularly be made of polyamides and in particular hydrocarbon polyamides and silicone polyamides.

The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polyamide chosen from hydrocarbon polyamides, silicone polyamides, and their mixtures.

Preferably, the total content of polyamide (s) is between 0.1% and 30% by weight expressed as dry matter, preferably between 0.1% and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

By "polyamide" is meant within the meaning of the invention a compound having at least 2 amide repeat units, preferably at least 3 amide repeat units and better still 10 amide repeat units.

By “hydrocarbon polyamide” is meant a polyamide formed essentially, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen, nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon atom or fluorine. It can contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

Mention may in particular be made of the commercial products sold by the company Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100 or else Uniclear 80 V, Uniclear 100 V and Uniclear 100 VG, the INCI name of which is "ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer".

The silicone polyamides are preferably solid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

As an example of a silicone polymer which can be used, mention may be made of one of the silicone polyamides obtained in accordance with Examples 1 to 3 of document US Pat. No. 5,981,680.

Mention may be made of the compounds marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 2-8179 (DP 100) and DC 2-8178 (DP 15) whose INCI name is “Nylon-611 / dimethicone copolymers”, that is to say say Nylon-611 / dimethicone copolymers. The silicone polymers and / or copolymers advantageously have a transition temperature from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 45 ° C. to 190 ° C. Preferably, they have a transition temperature from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 70 ° C to 130 ° C and better still from 80 ° C to 105 ° C.

Preferably, the total content of polyamide (s) and / or silicone polyamide (s) is between 0.5% and 25% by weight of dry matter, in particular from 2% to 20% by weight, preferably between 2% and 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.

Advantageously, the hydrogen-bonded polymer is chosen from the ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer and the nylon-611 / dimethicone copolymers.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises a lipophilic gelling agent chosen from particulate gelling agents chosen from polar and apolar waxes, modified clays, silicas such as fumed silicas and hydophobic silica aerogels, in particular chosen from modified clays, and preferably chosen from bentonites.

According to an advantageous variant, a composition according to the invention comprises a lipophilic gelling agent chosen from particulate gelling agents, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers, dextrin esters, hydrogen-bonded polymers and their mixtures, and in particular at least one organopolysiloxane elastomer.

GELIFYING SYSTEM

According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, and more particularly chosen from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid.

Preferably, mention may be made, for example, of crosslinked polymers of acrylamide-2methyl propane ammonium sulfonate (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide), such as the product sold under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS® by the company Clariant.

According to a preferred embodiment, the lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from particulate gelling agents, in particular chosen from waxes, polar and apolar, modified clays, silicas such as fumed silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels, and their mixtures .

Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic clay, more particularly chosen from hectorites, and in particular hectorites modified with a C 10 -C 22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di chloride. -stearyl di-methyl ammonium or bentone gel in isododecane.

The oily phase of a composition according to the invention may also comprise, as a gelling agent, a fumed silica or particles of silica airgel.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises a hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from synthetic polymeric gelling agents, more particularly chosen from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2methylpropane sulfonic acid, and in particular from crosslinked polymers of acrylamido-2-methyl propane ammonium sulfonate, and a lipophilic gelling agent chosen from particulate gelling agents, in particular chosen from waxes, polar and apolar, modified clays, silicas such as fumed silicas and hydrophobic silica aerogels, and their mixtures, in particular chosen from hectorites, and in particular hectorites modified with a Cio to C22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride or bentone gel in isododecane .

Aqueous phase

The aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

By “water-soluble solvent”, is meant in the present invention a compound liquid at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvents which can be used in the composition of the invention can also be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents which can be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, mention may be made in particular of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. carbon such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.

According to another alternative embodiment, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention can comprise at least one C2-C32 polyol.

By "polyol" should be understood, within the meaning of the present invention, any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

Preferably, a polyol according to the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.

A polyol suitable for the invention may be an alkyl type compound, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, bearing on the alkyl chain at least two OH functions, in particular at least three -OH functions, and more particularly at least four functions -OH.

The polyols which are advantageously suitable for the formulation of a composition according to the present invention are those having in particular from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, the polyol can for example be chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol,

1,3-propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, such as glycerol oligomers such as diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention can comprise at least dipropylene glycol.

According to another particular mode, the composition of the invention can comprise at least glycerol.

The gelled aqueous phase may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content of between 5% and 95% by weight, in particular between 35% and 90% by weight, and preferably between 60% and 85% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

Oily phase

Within the meaning of the invention, an oily phase comprises at least one oil.

The term “oil” means any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature at atmospheric pressure.

An oily phase suitable for the preparation of the compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions according to the invention, may comprise hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated or not, or their mixtures.

The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. According to an alternative embodiment, oils of silicone origin are preferred.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

The term “fluorinated oil” means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

"Hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

By “volatile oil” is meant, within the meaning of the invention, any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than an hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 " ³ to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

Volatile oils

The volatile oils can be hydrocarbon-based, or silicone-based.

Mention may in particular be made, among volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, of branched Cs-C16 alkanes such as Cs-C16 iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Peutyls, branched esters of Cs-C16 such as iso-hexyl neopentanoate, and their mixtures. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, in particular from isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and is in particular isohexadecane.

Mention may also be made of volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARALOL 12-97 and PARALOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the n-undecane (C11) and n38 tridecane (C13) mixtures ) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Application WO 2008/155059 from the Company

Cognis, and their mixtures.

As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of linear volatile silicone oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

As cyclic silicone volatile oils, mention may be made of hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcylotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and in particular cyclohexasiloxane.

Non-volatile oils

The non-volatile oils can, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated oils and / or non-volatile silicone oils.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, there may be mentioned in particular:

- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin,

- hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether,

- hydrocarbon oils of mineral or synthetic origin, in particular paraffin oil or its derivatives, petrolatum oil, naphthalene oil, polybutylenes, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, decene / butene copolymers, polybutene copolymers / polyisobutene, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, and mixtures thereof, and preferably hydrogenated polyisobutene;

- synthetic esters, such as oils of formula R1COOR2, in which Ri represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, branched containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that Ri + R ₂ is> 10. The esters can be, in particular, chosen from esters of alcohol and of fatty acid, such as, for example, cetostearyl octanoate, the esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, palmitate

2-ethyl-hexyl, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, alcohol or polyalcohol ricinoleates, hexyl laurate , esters of neopentanoic acid, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate,

polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetrahydroxystearate,

- fatty alcohols liquid at room temperature with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol,

- higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof,

- non-phenylated silicone oils, for example caprylyl methicone, and

- phenylated silicone oils, such as, for example, phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates or dimethethicone , trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; as well as mixtures of these different oils.

As specified above, the gelled oily phase according to the invention may have a threshold stress greater than 1.5 Pa and preferably greater than 10 Pa. This threshold stress value reflects a gel-like texture of this oily phase.

The gelled oily phase may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content of between 5% and 95% by weight, in particular between 10% and 65% by weight, and preferably between 15% and 40% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

Additional phase

A composition according to the invention can also comprise a third phase, distinct from the gelled aqueous and oily phases described above.

In particular, this phase is pulverulent and therefore consists essentially of compounds in the form of powder.

This additional phase may more particularly comprise at least one filler, at least one preservative, at least one perfume, and their mixtures. Preferably, this additional phase comprises at least one charge.

loads

By “fillers”, within the meaning of the present invention, it is necessary to understand the colorless or white particles, solid of all shapes, of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic nature, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

In particular, the filler (s) are chosen from powders of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with silsesquioxane resin, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with hydrophilic silicone resin, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, polyurethane powders, polyurethane powders of silicone, hollow hemispherical particles of silicone, powders of acrylic copolymers, vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methylene methacrylate microspheres, polyethylene powders, in particular comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, polymethyl methacrylate powders , crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders, crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, starch powders, polyamide powders, silica powders and silicates, in particular alumina particles, airgel particles hydrop hobe, talc of average size in number less than or equal to 3 microns, composites if I ice / Ti O2, barium sulphate particles, boron nitride particles, silica particles treated on the surface with a mineral wax 1 to 2%, amorphous silica microspheres, silica microbeads, talc / TiCL / alumina / silica composite powders, silicone elastomers, spherical cellulose beads, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the filler is chosen from silicone fillers, such as non-emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomers, crosslinked polydimethylsiloxane elastomer in dispersion in water and their mixtures.

The presence of an additional phase in a composition according to the invention advantageously makes it possible to provide additional properties to the composition in terms of sensory and visual effects. In particular, it allows the composition to be more pleasant when applied to keratin materials and to improve the matte effect.

The additional phase may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content of between 1% and 35% by weight, in particular of between 3% and 30% by weight, and preferably of between 5% and 25% by weight. , relative to the total weight of said composition.

BUILDERS

A composition according to the invention may also comprise other adjuvants, present in one or more of the stages detailed above.

Coloring matters

A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one particular or non-particulate coloring matter, water-soluble or not, and preferably at a rate of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the desired color effect and the color intensity provided by the dyestuffs considered and its adjustment clearly falls within the competence of those skilled in the art. art.

A composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.01% to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 20% by weight, and preferably from

2.5% to 15% by weight of coloring matters, relative to the total weight of said composition.

As specified above, the dyestuffs suitable for the invention can be water-soluble but also liposoluble.

By “water-soluble coloring matter”, within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an aqueous phase or solvents miscible with water and capable of coloring. As water-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as for example FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beet), carmine, chlorophyllin copper, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianine, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin. Water-soluble colors are, for example, beet juice and caramel.

By "liposoluble coloring matter", within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an oily phase or the solvents miscible with a fatty substance and capable of coloring. As liposoluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of liposoluble dyes, synthetic or natural, such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11 , DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes (β-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow , annatto, curcumin.

The particulate coloring materials may be present in an amount of 0.001% to% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition containing them.

It can in particular be pigments, pearlescent agents and / or particles with metallic reflections.

The term “pigments” should be understood to mean white or colored, mineral or organic particles, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the composition containing them.

A composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.001% to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.01% to 25% by weight, in particular from 1% to 25% by weight, and preferably from 2.5% to 15%. % by weight of pigments, relative to the total weight of said composition.

The pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

As inorganic pigments which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides or dioxides, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate, and mixtures thereof. It may also be a pigment having a structure which may, for example, be of the sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica type. It can also be pigments having a structure which can be, for example, of the silica microsphere type containing iron oxide. Advantageously, the pigments according to the invention are iron oxides and / or titanium dioxides.

By "nacres", it is necessary to understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or else synthesized, and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

A composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.001% to 15% by weight of nacres, relative to the total weight of said composition.

The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It can also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring matters.

Advantageously, the nacres in accordance with the invention are the micas coated with titanium dioxide or iron oxide as well as bismuth oxychloride.

By “particles with a metallic reflection”, within the meaning of the present invention, is meant any compound whose nature, size, structure and surface condition allows it to reflect the incident light in particular in a non-iridescent manner.

The particles with a metallic reflection which can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from particles of at least one metal and / or of at least one metallic derivative; particles comprising a substrate, organic or inorganic, monomaterial or multimaterial, covered at least partially by at least one layer with metallic reflection comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metallic derivative; and mixtures of said particles.

The pulverulent dyestuffs as described above can be treated on the surface, totally or partially, with a hydrophobic agent, to make them more compatible with the oily phase of the composition of the invention, in particular so that they have good wettability with the oils. Thus, these treated pigments are well dispersed in the oily phase.

Hydrophobic treated pigments are especially described in document EP-A1086683.

Dispersing agent

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention can also comprise a dispersing agent.

Such a dispersing agent can be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them.

According to a particular embodiment, a dispersing agent according to the invention is a surfactant.

According to a particular variant embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 1% by weight of surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition, or even is devoid of surfactant.

Polar additives

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more polar additive (s).

According to the present invention, the use of such a polar additive can in particular facilitate the homogenization of the dispersion in the presence of pigments.

The polar additive can be chosen from the compounds considered to be good donors or acceptors of hydrogen bonds, such as for example fatty alcohols, fatty acids, diols, esters and their mixtures.

According to one embodiment, the polar additives of the invention can be polar oils.

According to one embodiment, the polar additives of the invention can be amphiphilic compounds, comprising a lipophilic part linked to a polar part, for example chosen from esters, branched fatty alcohols C12 to C26 such as octyldodecanol, or silicone amphiphilic compounds. The polar additives of the invention may also be agents for filtering UV-B and / or UV-A rays, the total quantity of filters possibly being between 0.01% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

A composition according to the invention can comprise from 0.01% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 7% by weight, in particular from 0.05% to 5% by weight of polar additive (s) (s).

assets

A composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one active ingredient.

It can be a moisturizing agent (also called a humectant), in particular chosen from glycerin, vitamins, preferably tocopherol, and their mixtures, in particular for a care application.

The hydrating agent (s) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 15% by weight, or even from 1% to 10% by weight, relative the total weight of said composition.

In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise less than 15% by weight, preferably less than 10% by weight of glycerin, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 8% by weight of glycerin, in particular less than 7% by weight of glycerin, relative to the total weight of the composition, or even is devoid of glycerin.

Indeed, too high a glycerin content in a composition according to the invention can cause a reduction in the tightening effect of the composition and no longer make it possible to prevent and / or treat the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines so satisfactory.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one active, preferably an anti-aging active, more preferably chosen from sodium hyaluronate, n-octanoyl-5-salycilic acid, adenosine, c- beta-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane and the sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl) acetic acid.

As other active agents which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may, for example, be made of vitamins, antioxidants, amino acids, plant extracts, resorcinol derivatives, sunscreens and their mixtures, and in particular vitamins such as tocopherol.

Preferably, the active ingredient is sodium hyaluronate.

It is routine operations of a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and the quantity of additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties thereof are not not affected.

PROCESSES

The present invention relates, according to one of its aspects, to a process for the preparation of a composition according to the invention, comprising at least the following steps:

i) have an aqueous mixture comprising at least one polyoxyethylenated glycerol monostearate and an effective amount of at least one wax having a hardness at 20 ° C. greater than or equal to 6 MPa and a melting temperature greater than or equal to 60 ° VS ;

ii) heating the mixture of step i) to a temperature greater than or equal to the melting temperature of said wax and / or of the mixture of waxes;

iii) cooling the mixture of step ii) below the crystallization temperature of the wax and / or the mixture of waxes, in order to obtain an aqueous microdispersion of an effective quantity of wax particles having a hardness to 20 ° C greater than or equal to 6 MPa and a melting temperature greater than or equal to 60 ° C, stabilized by at least one polyoxyethylenated glycerol monostearate;

iv) adding at least one hydrophilic gelling agent to said aqueous microdispersion;

v) have an oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent;

vi) mixing said gelled aqueous and oily phases under conditions suitable for obtaining a macroscopically homogeneous mixture.

By "room temperature" according to the present invention is meant a temperature ranging from 20 ° C to 25 ° C, at normal atmospheric pressure (76 mm Hg).

Preferably, this process can also comprise a step of adding at least a third phase distinct from said gelled aqueous and oily phases, in particular a pulverulent phase, preferably comprising at least one filler, as defined above.

The adjustment of the operating conditions, in particular of temperature, making it possible to obtain a composition in accordance with the invention, being in a gel-gel form and incorporating a microdispersion of wax particles defined according to the invention, is clearly noted skills of the skilled person.

In particular, the heating temperature considered in step ii) may be between 60 ° C and 120 ° C, in particular between 70 ° C and 100 ° C.

The oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent considered in step v) can be at room temperature, or can be heated to a temperature higher than room temperature.

Preferably, the oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent considered in step v) is at a temperature between 30 ° C and 100 ° C, more preferably between 45 ° C and 75 ° C.

Another object of the present invention is, according to another of its aspects, a cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least one step of application to said said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

The present invention further relates, according to yet another of its aspects, to a cosmetic process for attenuating and / or erasing wrinkles and / or fine lines from the skin comprising a step of applying to the skin a composition according to the invention.

APPLICATIONS

As demonstrated in the examples which follow, a composition in accordance with the present invention is particularly advantageous in that it has good properties in terms of tightening effect, making it possible to effectively reduce the visibility of wrinkles and fine lines, in particular appearing on the skin. facial skin.

Thus, the present invention also relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for preventing and / or treating the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines.

Furthermore, a composition according to the invention retains good sensory properties, in particular in terms of stickiness and hydration of the skin.

Indeed, the film formed on the skin after drying of the composition is deformable and does not crack. Thus, a composition according to the invention provides a feeling of comfort to

Γutilisateur. This effect is also lasting throughout the day.

In addition, a composition according to the invention allows a good perception of comfort, from the application and which is durable during the day.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a care composition, in particular of the skin and / or keratin fibers, of the body or of the face, in particular of the face.

In particular, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of an anti-aging care composition for the skin of the body or of the face, in particular of the face.

According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be in the form of a makeup composition for the skin and / or keratin fibers, of the body or of the face, in particular of the face.

Thus, according to a sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be in the form of a base makeup composition for makeup. A composition of the invention can advantageously be in the form of a foundation.

According to another sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be in the form of a composition for making up the skin and in particular the face. It can be an eyeshadow or a blush.

According to yet another sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be in the form of a lip product, in particular a lipstick.

According to yet another sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention can be in the form of an eyelash product, in particular a mascara.

According to yet another sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be in the form of an eyebrow product, in particular an eyebrow pencil.

Such compositions are especially prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

The expressions "between ... and ...", "includes from ... to ...", "formed from ... to ...", and "ranging from ... to ..." , must be understood including terminals, unless otherwise specified.

In the description and examples, unless otherwise indicated, the percentages are percentages by weight. The percentages are therefore expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise indicated, and the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise indicated.

The invention is illustrated in more detail by the nonlimiting examples presented below.

Examples

Example 1

The compositions C1, C2 and C3 according to the invention are prepared as described below with the proportions indicated in Table 1.

Preparation of the aqueous microdispersion

Carnauba wax, oxyethylenated beeswax, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate and water are introduced into a tank and heated to a temperature of 95 ± 2 ° C. The mixture is emulsified for 15 minutes. The composition is cooled with stirring, at a speed of about 2 ° C / min to 70 ° C.

Preparation of the compositions

The ammonium polyaciyloyldimethyl taurate is added at 70 ° C under shearing and mixing.

The thickened fatty phase is heated to 75 ° C for 20 minutes, then cooled to 65 ° C. It is added to the tank cooled to 65 ° C, under shearing and mixing.

The glycerine, the preservatives, the perfume, and the active ingredients are added to the tank cooled between 30 ° C and 45 ° C, under shearing and mixing.

Still under shearing and mixing, the alcohol is added to the tank when it reaches a temperature below 35 ° C.

The composition is cooled to 25 ° C.

Cl C2 C3 Hydrophilic phase Aqueous microdispersion Water - qs 100% qs 100% Qsp 100% Carnauba wax Cerauba T3 - Baerlocher 7.6 15.2 7.6 PEG-30 glyceryl stearate Tagat S - Evonik Goldschmidt 2.92 2.92 2.92 PEG-8 beeswax Apifil Cg - Gattefosse 7.6 - 7.6 Ammonium polyacryloyl dimethyl taurate Hostacerin AMPS - Clariant 0.45 0.45 0.45 dimethicone (and) dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer KSG 16 - SHIN ETSU 1.17 1.17 1.2 dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer (and) cl2-14 pareth-12 DOWSIL BY 29- 119 - Dow Corning 2.92 2.92 2.9 Sodium hyaluronate Cristalhyal Lo Soliance (Givaudan) 0.11 0.11 0.1 Glycerin Glycerin 4811K - Oleon 7 7 5 assets - - qs Denatured alcohol Alcohol - Japan Alcohol Corporation 5.85 5.85 6.3 Dye - qs - Conservative qs qs qs Beeswax White Beeswax (GR B 889) - Koster Keunen 2.51 2.51 2.5 Shea Butter LIPEX 204 TR - Aarhuskarlshamn - - 3 Lipophilic phase diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone KF-56A - SHIN ETSU 8.77 8.77 8.75

dicaprylyl ether CETIOL OE- BASF 8.77 8.77 5.75 Disteardimonium hectorite (Bentone) (and) propylene carbonate Bentone 38 VCG - Elementis 5.01 5.01 5 Silica Sunsphere H 51 AGC SI-TECH 1 1 1 methyl methacrylate crosspolymer Covabead LH 85- Sensient 1.15 1.15 1.15 loads vinyl dimethicone / methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer KSP 100 - SHIN ETSU 0.76 0.76 0.75 dimethicone BELSIL DM 5 MORE - Wacker 3.09 3.09 3 Perfume - qs qs

Table 1

Evaluation of cosmetic properties

Tensor and comfort perceptions were assessed by 20 women in a 5 qualitative consumer study carried out by a company independent of L’Oréal.

The compositions according to the invention have both a tightening effect and a comfort, immediate and lasting.

Example 2

Preparation of the compositions

The compositions CCI, comparative composition, and C4 according to the invention are prepared as described above with the proportions indicated in table 2.

CCI C4 Hydrophilic phase Aqueous microdispersion Water - qs 100% qs 100% Wax Carnauba Cerauba T3 - Baerlocher 26 8,35 PEG-30 glyceryl stearate Tagat S - Evonik Goldschmidt 7 4.5

PEG-8 beeswax APIFIL CG - Gattefosse - 8,35 Ammonium polyacryloyl dimethyl taurate Hostacerin AMPS - Clariant 0.78 0.5 Glycerin Glycerin 4811K - Oleon - 7 Propylene carbonate Jeffsol Propylene Carbonate - Huntsman - 0.44 Denatured alcohol Alcohol - Japan Alcohol Corporation 10 6.43 Lipophilic phase Cera alba (beeswax) White Beeswax (GR B 889) - Koster Keunen - 2.75 Prunus armeniaca (apricot) kernel oil Refined Apricot Kernel Oil - Olvea - 22.97 Disteardimonium hectorite (Bentone) Bentone 38 VCG - Elementis - 1.38 Silica Sunsphere H 51 - AGC SITECH - 1 Perfume qs qs

Table 2

Evaluation of cosmetic properties

The presence or absence of fluff is carried out by applying the compositions to the face, drying and then rubbing on the area.

Tensor and comfort perceptions were assessed by 20 women in a qualitative consumer study carried out by a company independent of L’Oréal.

The results obtained are summarized in Table 3 below.

CCI C4 Cosmetic acceptability Lots of fluff No plush Tensor perception Too much tensor perception (too rigid effect) Tensor perception satisfactory Comfort Discomfort after the application of the composition Good balance between tensor perception and comfort

Table 3

Composition C4 according to the invention has both a tightening effect and immediate and lasting comfort and does not fluff after application.

On the contrary, the CCI composition not in accordance with the invention does not make it possible to achieve satisfactory comfort and tends to form a lot of fluff on application.

Claims (25)

1. Composition, in particular cosmetic, in particular for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, comprising: - at least one aqueous phase gelled with at least one hydrophilic gelling agent; and - at least one oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; said phases forming therein a macroscopically homogeneous mixture, characterized in that said gelled aqueous phase further comprises an aqueous microdispersion of an effective amount of wax particles having a hardness at 20 ° C greater than or equal to 6 MPa and a melting temperature greater than or equal to 60 ° C., stabilized by at least one polyoxyethylenated glycerol monostearate. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said aqueous microdispersion of wax particles is present in a content of microdispersed waxes of between 5% and 45% by weight, preferably between 8% and 40% by weight, by relative to the total weight of the composition. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that said wax particles have an average size of less than 1 μm, in particular less than 0.5 μm, and preferably between 50 nm and 300 nm. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said wax has a hardness of between 6 MPa and 25 MPa, preferably between 6 MPa and 15 MPa, preferably between 6 MPa and 10 MPa. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said wax has a melting temperature between 60 ° C and 120 ° C, preferably between 70 ° C and 100 ° C. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said wax is chosen from carnauba wax, microcrystalline waxes candelilla wax and their mixtures, and preferably is carnauba wax. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said aqueous microdispersion further comprises an additional wax having a hardness at 20 ° C of less than 6 MPa, preferably between 1 MPa and 5.5 MPa, and a melting temperature less than or equal to 65 ° C, preferably between 30 ° C and 60 ° C. 8. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said additional wax is chosen from beeswax, oxyethylenated beeswax, paraffin wax and their mixtures, and preferably from beeswax, oxyethylenated beeswax and mixtures thereof. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said aqueous microdispersion comprises carnauba wax or a mixture of carnauba wax and beeswax, optionally oxyethylenated. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of polyoxyethylenated glycerol monostearate / wax (es) in said aqueous microdispersion is between 0.1 and 0.4, and preferably is between 0 , 2 and 0.3. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the gelled aqueous phase is present in a content of between 5% and 95% by weight, in particular between 35% and 90% by weight, and preferably between 60% and 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from natural polymeric gelling agents and from natural origin, more precisely polysaccharides, synthetic polymeric gelling agents, and preferably from polymers associative, polyacrylamides, polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, carboxyvinyl polymers and mixtures thereof. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.1% to 8% by weight in dry matter, preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight in dry matter and more preferably from 0.15% to 2.5% by weight in dry matter of polyacrylamide (s) and / or depolymer (s) and copolymer (s) of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, crosslinked and / or neutralized with respect to the total weight of the composition. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the gelled oily phase is present in a content of between 5% and 95% by weight, in particular between 10% and 65% by weight, and preferably between 15% and 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from particulate gelling agents chosen from polar and apolar waxes, modified clays, silicas such as fumed silicas and silica aerogels hydrophobic, organopolysiloxane elastomers, semi-crystalline polymers, dextrin esters, hydrogen-bonded polymers chosen from hydrocarbon polyamides and silicone polyamides, and mixtures thereof. 17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the lipophilic gelling agent is chosen from particulate gelling agents chosen from polar and apolar waxes, modified clays, silicas such as fumed silicas and silica aerogels hydrophobic, in particular chosen from modified clays, and preferably chosen from bentonites. 18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises a third phase, distinct from said gelled aqueous and oily phases, in particular a pulverulent phase, preferably comprising at least one filler. 19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises at least one active, preferably an anti-aging active, more preferably chosen from sodium hyaluronate, n-octanoyl- acid. 5-salycilique, adenosine, c-beta-d-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane and the sodium salt of 3hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentyl) acetic acid. 20. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a care composition, in particular for the skin and / or keratin fibers, for the body or the face, in particular for the face. . 21. Process for the preparation of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least the following steps: i) have an aqueous mixture comprising at least one polyoxyethylenated glycerol monostearate and an effective amount of at least one wax having a hardness at 20 ° C. greater than or equal to 6 MPa and a melting temperature greater than or equal to 60 ° VS ; ii) heating the mixture of step i) to a temperature greater than or equal to the melting temperature of said wax; iii) cooling the mixture of step ii) below the crystallization temperature of the wax and / or the mixture of waxes, in order to obtain an aqueous microdispersion of an effective quantity of wax particles having a hardness to 20 ° C greater than or equal to 6 MPa and a melting temperature greater than or equal to 60 ° C, stabilized by at least one polyoxyethylenated glycerol monostearate; iv) adding at least one hydrophilic gelling agent to said aqueous microdispersion; v) have an oily phase gelled with at least one lipophilic gelling agent; vi) mixing said gelled aqueous and oily phases under conditions suitable for obtaining a macroscopically homogeneous mixture. 22. Method according to the preceding claim, further comprising a step of adding at least a third phase distinct from said gelled aqueous and oily phases, 5 in particular a pulverulent phase, preferably comprising at least one filler. 23. Cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for keratin materials and / or keratin fibers, in particular the skin and / or lips, comprising at least one step of application to said keratin materials and / or keratin fibers d 'A composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 20. 10 24. Cosmetic, non-therapeutic process for attenuating and / or erasing wrinkles and / or fine lines of the skin comprising a step of applying to the skin a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 20 . 25. Use, non-therapeutic, of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 20 for preventing and / or treating the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines.