FR2979232A1 - Composition, useful for e.g. making up and/or caring of skin and preventing skin aging, comprising aqueous phase dispersed in fatty phase, comprises jasmonic acid derivatives and emulsifying silicone elastomer comprising hydrophilic chain - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, comprises jasmonic acid derivatives (I) and an emulsifying silicone elastomer that comprises hydrophilic chain and is devoid of 2C oxyalkylene alkyl chain. Composition in the form of water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, comprises jasmonic acid derivatives of formula (I) and their optical isomers or salts, and an emulsifying silicone elastomer that comprises hydrophilic chain and is devoid of 2C oxyalkylene alkyl chain. R1 : COOR 3; R2 : optionally saturated, linear 1-8C or branched or cyclic 3-18C hydrocarbyl, preferably pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl or heptyl; and R3 : H or 1-4C alkyl (optionally substituted by OH). An independent claim is included for a non-therapeutic process for making up and/or caring of skin comprising applying a layer of composition to the skin. [Image] ACTIVITY : Nootropic; Dermatological. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

The present invention relates to skincare and / or makeup compositions of the skin. The present invention relates to skin care and / or make-up compositions. More particularly, the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions, in the form of water-in-oil emulsions, comprising a jasmonic acid derivative and an emulsifying silicone elastomer. Consumers are looking for make-up or skincare cosmetic products that spread easily and quickly on the skin in the form of a deposit that must not be thick but on the contrary blend as much as possible with the support, and on the other hand, they are also looking for anti-aging products. Consumers are therefore increasingly looking for cosmetic products that combine skin-tone makeup properties and skincare properties that make it possible in particular to combat aging. These products most often contain active ingredients recognized for their anti-aging activity and colored particles such as pigments or nacres that hide the signs of aging. Among the anti-aging active agents, mention may be made of alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and citric acid, beta-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid, but also derivatives of jasmonic acid, described in particular in EP 1 333 021. These jasmonic acid derivatives have the advantage of being well tolerated and of not inducing discomfort on the skin such as tingling, tightness or redness. However, the introduction of these compounds into cosmetic formulations, particularly in the form of emulsions, can greatly alter their stability and induce a phase shift or a decrease in viscosity over time. There is therefore a need for compositions in the form of W / O emulsions that are stable and have good cosmetic application properties. It is an object of the present invention to provide water-in-oil emulsions for use in skincare and / or makeup compositions.

The object of the present invention is to provide care and / or makeup compositions for the skin, in the form of water-in-oil emulsions, which are stable over time. The present invention aims to provide care compositions and / or makeup of the skin with a good compromise between stability and cosmetic properties. Thus, the present invention relates to a composition, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, said composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium containing: at least one compound derived from jasmonic acid of the following formula (I): embedded image in which: R1 represents a radical 000R3, R3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups; 20. R2 represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or branched or cyclic comprising from 3 to 18 carbon atoms; as well as their optical isomers, and corresponding salts; and at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated hydrophilic chain and being free of alkyl chain having at least 2 carbon atoms. The compositions according to the invention are cosmetic compositions intended for make-up and / or care of the skin. The emulsions obtained have a good stability over time, a pleasant appearance, and during their application, properties of comfortable feeling. By "stable emulsion" is meant an emulsion which, after 1 month of storage at room temperature (20-22 ° C) at 4 ° C and 37 ° C, shows no macroscopic change. JASMONIC ACID DERIVATIVES The compositions of the invention comprise at least one jasmonic acid derivative compound of formula (I) as defined above. The compositions of the invention may comprise mixtures of compounds of formula (I). According to the present invention, the "alkyl" Cx-Cy radicals represent saturated hydrocarbon radicals, in a straight or branched chain, comprising from x to y carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 12, or from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. (They can typically be represented by the formula CnEl2n, i, where n is the number of carbon atoms). Mention may in particular be made, when they are linear, the methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, octyl, nonyl and decyl radicals. When they are branched or substituted by one or more alkyl radicals, mention may be made especially of the isopropyl, tert-butyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 2-methylbutyl, 2-methylpentyl, 1-methylpentyl and 3-methylheptyl radicals. According to one embodiment, in the formula (I), R 3 is selected from the group consisting of H, methyl, ethyl, optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group, and propyl, optionally substituted with one or two hydroxyl groups (s) ( s). When R 3 represents an alkyl group, it may be substituted by one or more hydroxyl group (s), the hydroxyl group (s) which may be bound in the terminal position of the alkyl radical. and / or in lateral position. For example, R3 may be -CH2-CH (OH) -CH3 or -CH2-CH2-CH2OH, or -CH2-CH (OH) -CH2OH. According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise a compound of formula (I), wherein R1 is selected from the group consisting of: -COOH, -COOCH3, -000-CH2-CH3, -000-CH2 -CH (OH) -CH2OH, -COOCH2-CH2-CH2OH and -COOCH2-CH (OH) -CH3. According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention may comprise a compound of formula (I), in which R 2 is a hydrocarbon radical, linear, saturated or unsaturated, having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms. In the formula (I), R 2 can represent a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or preferably from 2 to 7 carbon atoms. According to one embodiment, in the formula (I), R2 is selected from the group consisting of pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl and heptyl radicals. According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise a compound of formula (I) wherein R 1 is -COOH.

A particular jasmonic acid derivative compound used in the compositions of the invention has the following formula (I-1): wherein R 2 represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 1 to to 18 carbon atoms, or preferably 2 to 7 carbon atoms. According to one embodiment, in formula (1-1), R2 is selected from the group consisting of pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl and heptyl. According to one particular embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise a compound of formula (I) chosen from 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentane acetic acid or the sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl acid. Cyclopentane acetic acid. The compounds of formula (I) may comprise one or more asymmetric carbon atoms. They can therefore exist as enantiomers or diastereoisomers. These enantiomers, diastereoisomers, as well as their mixtures, including the racemic mixtures, form part of the invention. The compounds of formula (I) may exist in the form of bases or addition salts with acids. Such addition salts are part of the invention. The salts of the compounds that may be used according to the invention are in particular chosen from alkali metal salts, for example sodium and potassium; alkaline earth metal salts, for example calcium, magnesium, strontium; metal salts, for example zinc, aluminum, manganese, copper; ammonium salts of formula NH4 +; quaternary ammonium salts; organic amine salts, such as, for example, the salts of methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2-hydroxyethylamine, bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amine, tri- (2- hydroxyethyl) amine; lysine salts, arginine. Salts chosen from among the sodium, potassium, magnesium, strontium, copper, manganese and zinc salts are preferably used. Preferably, the sodium salt is used. According to one particular embodiment, in the compositions of the invention, the compound of formula (I) is carried in the aqueous phase and in a content ranging from 0.001% to 10%, in particular from 0.1% to 8% and preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

Emulsifying Silicone Elastomers The compositions of the invention comprise at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated hydrophilic chain and being free of alkyl chain having at least 2 carbon atoms.

The compositions of the invention are therefore characterized in that they comprise a surfactant system comprising at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer according to the invention. The compositions of the invention may therefore comprise an emulsifying silicone elastomer or a mixture of several emulsifying silicone elastomers according to the invention. In the context of the present invention, the emulsifying silicone elastomers used are characterized in that they comprise in their structure at least one oxyalkylenated hydrophilic chain and also in that they do not comprise an alkyl chain having at least 2 carbon atoms. pendant carbon or used as crosslinking agent. The term "oxyalkylenated chain" refers to a chain of the following formula: ## STR2 ## in which: m is greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 6, p is greater than or equal to 2 and less than or equal to 200, 20. q may be zero or less than 200, wherein p + q is greater than or equal to 3 and less than or equal to 200. The term "silicone elastomer" denotes a partially or fully crosslinked organopolysiloxane. By emulsifying silicone elastomer is meant a silicone elastomer comprising at least one hydrophilic chain. According to one embodiment, the emulsifying silicone elastomer is chosen from polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers. The emulsifying elastomers of the compositions of the invention are therefore different from the polyglycerolated silicone elastomers. The polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane obtainable by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane (A1) containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and a polyoxyalkylene (B1) having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups. In particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated polyoxyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene) and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst. The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of the compound (A1) are methyl groups.

The compound (A1) can thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes and dimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers. The compound (C1) is the catalyst of the crosslinking reaction, and is chosen in particular from chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum on support. Advantageously, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers can be formed from divinyl compounds, in particular polyoxyalkylenes having at least two vinyl groups, reacting with Si-H bonds of a polysiloxane. Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon (A1), and polyoxyalkylene having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups (B1), especially in the presence platinum catalyst (C1), as for example described in patents US 5,236,986 and US 5,412,004. The polyoxyalkylene silicone elastomer according to the invention is preferably mixed with at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the polyoxyalkylene elastomer is in the form of non-spherical particles. Polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are described in particular in patents US Pat. No. 5,236,986 and US Pat. No. 5,412,004. As the polyoxyalkylene silicone elastomer, those marketed under the names "KSG-21", "KSG-20", "KSG-210", or "X-226146" by Shin Etsu can be used. According to one embodiment, the emulsifying silicone elastomer comprises at least one hydrophilic polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated chain. According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises, as a silicone elastomer, emulsifying the KSG-210 product from Shin Etsu, corresponding to a dimethicone / PEG-10/15 crosspolymer product. According to one embodiment, the amount of active material (dry matter) of emulsifying silicone elastomer (s) ranges from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.5% to 10%, and more preferably from 1% to 6% relative to the total weight of said composition, inclusive. Dyestuffs A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one dyestuff, in particular a pulverulent dyestuff. The dyestuff (or coloring agent) present in the compositions of the invention is chosen for example from the group consisting of pigments, dyes and interferential particles. According to one embodiment, the coloring material is chosen from pigments. The dyestuffs may be present in a proportion of from 0.001% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. A cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention may advantageously incorporate at least one dyestuff chosen from organic or inorganic dyestuffs, in particular, of the type of pigment or nacre conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, fat-soluble or water-soluble dyes, with specific optical effect and their mixtures. By pigments are meant white or colored, inorganic or organic particles, insoluble in an aqueous solution, for coloring and / or opacifying the resulting film. The pigments may be present in an amount of from 0.1% to 40% by weight, in particular from 1% to 30% by weight, and in particular from 5% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. As inorganic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and Chromium hydrate. Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least pigments selected from titanium oxides, iron oxides and mixtures thereof.

It may also be a pigment having a structure which may for example be sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica. Such a pigment is marketed for example under the reference COVERLEAF NS or JS by CHEMICALS AND CATALYSTS and has a contrast ratio of about 30. The coloring material may also comprise a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, of the type silica microspheres containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is that marketed by MIYOSHI under the reference PC BALL PC-LL-100 P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide. By "nacres", it is necessary to understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. The nacres may be present in a proportion of from 0.1% to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, and titanium mica coated with oxide. chromium, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride. Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of mother-of-pearl TIMICA, FLAMENCO and DUOCHROME (based on mica) marketed by ENGELHARD, TIMIRON pearls marketed by MERCK, mother-of-pearl containing PRESTIGE mica marketed by the company. ECKART and the 30 nacres based on SUNSHINE synthetic mica marketed by SUN CHEMICAL. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection. By way of illustration of the nacres which can be used in the context of the present invention, it is possible, in particular, to mention gold-colored nacres, in particular sold by ENGELHARD under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres, in particular, sold by the company Merck under the names Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); nacres of brown hue, in particular, marketed by the company Engelhard under the name Nu- io antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen, in particular, marketed by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the red-colored pearlescent agents, in particular, marketed by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); nacres with yellow glints, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); nacres of red hue with gold glare, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); black nacres with a gold glint, sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue nacres, in particular, sold by Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), silver-white mother-of-pearl, in particular, sold by MERCK under the name Xirona Silver and golden-green rosé orange nacres, sold by Merck under the name Indian Summer (Xirona) and their mixtures. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes. Liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, p-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, Orange DC 5 and yellow quinoline. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice and caramel. The water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes may be present in a proportion of from 0.001% to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.01% to 3% by weight, and in particular from 0.025% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight. of the cosmetic composition. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect.

This effect is different from a simple conventional hue effect, i.e. unified and stabilized as produced by conventional dyestuffs, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of effect of color variability with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature. For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic sheen, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and especially interferential fibers. Of course, these different materials can be associated so as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect according to the invention. The particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from: particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, particles comprising an organic or inorganic substrate, monomaterial or multimaterial at least partially covered by at least one metal-reflecting layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and the mixtures of said particles. Among the metals that may be present in said particles, there may be mentioned for example Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (e.g., bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals. The term "metal derivatives" denotes compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulphides. As an illustration of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those sold under the STARBRITE 1200 EAC® denominations by the company SIBERLINE and METALURE® by the company ECKART. Mention may also be made of copper metal powders or mixtures of alloys, such as the references 2844 sold by the company Radium Bronze, metallic pigments, such as aluminum or bronze, such as those sold under the trade names ROTOSAFE 700 of ECKART, the silica-coated aluminum particles marketed under the name VISIONAIRE BRIGHT SILVER by ECKART and the metal alloy particles, such as bronze powders (copper and zinc alloy) coated with silica marketed under the name from Visionaire Bright Natural Gold from Eckart. It may also be particles comprising a glass substrate such as those sold by the company NIPPON SHEET GLASS under the names MICROGLASS METASHINE. The goniochromatic coloring agent may be selected from, for example, interfering multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents. Examples of symmetrical interferential multilayer structures that can be used in compositions produced according to the invention are, for example, the following structures: Al / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Al, pigments having this structure being marketed by the company DuPont de Nemours ; Cr / MgF 2 / Al / MgF 2 / Cr, pigments having this structure being marketed under the name CHROMAFLAIR by the company FLEX; MoS2 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3 and Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3, pigments having these structures being marketed under the name SICOPEARL by the company BAS F; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / mica-oxide / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2; SnO / TiO 2 / SiO 2 / TiO 2 / SnO; Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3; SnO / mica / TiO 2 / SiO 2 / TiO 2 / mica / SnO, pigments having these structures being marketed under the name XIRONA by the company MERCK (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments may be the pigments of silica / titania / tin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Magic by the company Merck, the silica / brown iron oxide structural pigments marketed under the name XIRONA. INDIAN SUMMER by MERCK and the structural pigments silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide marketed under the name XIRONA CARRIBEAN BLUE by the company MERCK. Mention may also be made of the INFINITE COLORS pigments from SHISEIDO. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the Fe.sub.2 O.sub.3 / SiO.sub.2 / Al.sub.2 / Fe.sub.2O.sub.3 structure, gold-green to gray-red is passed for SiO.sub.2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for layers of SiO2 from 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO2 layers from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO2 layers from 430 to 440 nm. Mention may be made, by way of example of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure, those marketed by the company 3M under the name COLOR GLITTER.

As liquid crystal goniochromatic particles, it is possible to use, for example, those sold by CHENIX, as well as those sold under the name HELICONE® HC by WACKER. These goniochromatic coloring agents may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Physiologically acceptable medium In addition to the compounds indicated above, a composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium. By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium that is particularly suitable for applying a composition of the invention to the skin or the lips. The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged. The compositions of the invention are in the form of an W / O emulsion containing a dispersed aqueous phase and a continuous oily phase. Aqueous phase The composition according to the invention comprises an amount of aqueous phase which may range, for example, from 10% to 90% by weight, preferably from 20% to 70% by weight and better still from 30% to 60% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition. The aqueous phase comprises water and any other water-soluble compound that may be present, such as in particular water-soluble solvents and additives. As water-soluble solvents, mention may be made in particular of alcohols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, especially from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycerol, butylene glycol and polyethylene glycols. The aqueous phase may also contain other additives such as water-soluble actives, preservatives, salts, gelling agents, fillers, water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers, water-soluble dyes, and the like. Fatty phase A cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one liquid and / or solid fatty phase. In particular, a composition of the invention may comprise at least one liquid fatty phase, especially at least one oil as mentioned below. The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure. These oils can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. According to one embodiment, the fatty phase of the compositions of the invention comprises at least one volatile oil and / or at least one non-volatile oil. Volatile oils According to one embodiment, the fatty phase of the compositions of the invention comprises at least one volatile oil. The fatty phase of the compositions of the invention may comprise a mixture of several volatile oils. By "volatile oil" is meant any nonaqueous medium that can evaporate from the skin or lips in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg / cm 2 / min, inclusive. To measure this evaporation rate is introduced into a crystallizer, with a diameter of 7 cm, placed on a balance in a large chamber of about 0.3 m 3 temperature-controlled, at a temperature of 25.degree. hygrometry, at a relative humidity of 50%, 15 g of oil or oil mixture to be tested. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, providing ventilation by a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2,700 revolutions per minute) arranged in a vertical position above the crystallizer containing said oil or said mixture, the blades being directed to the crystallizer and at a distance of 20cm from the bottom of the crystallizer. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of evaporated oil per unit area (cm 2) and per unit of time (minute). The volatile oils may be hydrocarbon, silicone or fluorinated. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom. The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms. The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

The volatile oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes (also known as isoparaffins or isoalkanes), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4 , 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names ISOPARSe or PERMETHYLS®. As hydrocarbon-based volatile oils, mention may also be made of linear C9-C17 alkanes, such as dodecane (O12) and tetradecane (O14), sold respectively under the references PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97 (Sasol). ) and as the alkanes obtained according to the process described in the international application WO 2007/068371 A1, such as the mixture of undecane (Cil) and tridecane (013) sold under the reference of CETIOL® UT (Cognis). Among the volatile hydrocarbon oils, isododecane and the mixture of undecane (Cil) and tridecane (013) are preferred. Volatile silicones, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those having a viscosity of less than or equal to 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 × 10 -6 m 2), can also be used as volatile oils. s), and having, in particular, from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxyl groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As the volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. More particularly, as silicone volatile oil, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicone oils having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Preferred examples include decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

Among the volatile silicone oils, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane is preferred. As the volatile fluorinated oil, there may be mentioned for example nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.

Non-volatile oils According to one embodiment, the fatty phase of the compositions of the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil. The fatty phase of the compositions of the invention may comprise a mixture of several non-volatile oils. By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg / cm 2 / min. The non-volatile oils may in particular be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated oils and / or non-volatile silicone oils. Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include: - hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; - hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, or isostearate of physostearyl and lauroyl glutamate / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203), triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular, whose fatty acids may have chain lengths varying from C4 at C36, and especially from C18 to C36, these oils being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils may, in particular, be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, bancoulier, passionflower, butter oil. shea butter, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach almond oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, oil of hemp, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, l macadamia oil, corn oil, prairie pearl oil (`rneadowfoarn '), St. John's wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil , walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, seed oil of kiwi, grape seed oil, pistachio oil, pumpkin oil, pumpkin oil, rose hip oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, soybean oil sunflower oil, castor oil, and watermelon seed oil, and mixtures thereof, or triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under them. MIGLYOL 810®, 812® and 818® denominations by DYNAMIT NOBEL, - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, polyisobutene hydrogenated such as Parleam, squalane; synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula RiCOOR 2, in which R 1 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that the sum of the number of carbon atoms of the R1 and R2 chains is greater than or equal to 10. The esters may be, in particular, chosen from alcohol and fatty acid esters, for example cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, stearate or isostearate isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactact, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially heptanoate, Isostearyl, octanoates, decanoates or ricinol alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, diheptanoate, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol diethyl 2 -hexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acid, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, neopentanoate of isotridecyl, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldocecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; esters of polyols and esters of pentaerythritol, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate; esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7®, sold by the company Nippon FINE CHEMICAL and described in application US 2004-175338, - copolymers of diol dimer and diacid dimer and their esters, such as dimeric dilinoleyl diol / dimeric dilinoleic copolymers and their esters, such as for example Plandool-G, copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA, or dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer, - branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 atoms of carbon, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol, - higher fatty acids 012-022 urs, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, - di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains may be the same or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate marketed under the name CETIOL CC®, by COGNIS, - oils of high molar mass having, in particular, a molar mass ranging from about 400 to about 10,000 g / mol, in particular from about 650 to about 10,000 g / mol, in particular from about 750 to about 7500 g / mol, and more particularly from about 1000 to about 5000 g / mol. As oil of high molar mass that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made especially of oils chosen from: lipophilic polymers, linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, hydroxyl esters aromatic esters, esters of branched fatty alcohols or of C24-C283 fatty acids, silicone oils, oils of vegetable origin, and mixtures thereof; fluorinated oils which may be partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers or fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847,752; silicone oils, such as non-volatile, linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof.

Among the linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, paraffins oils or vaseline oil are preferably used. Among the hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, mention may preferably be made of vegetable oils, such as sweet almond oil, jojoba oil or macadamia oil. Among synthetic oils, such as synthetic esters, isopecaned neopentanoate or isononyl isononanoate is particularly used, and among the synthetic ethers, dicapryl ether is preferably used. Of the non-volatile silicone oils, polydimethylsiloxanes, phenyltrimethicone or alkyldimethicones such as cetyl dimethicone are preferably used. According to one embodiment, the fatty phase of the compositions of the invention represents a percentage ranging from 10% to 85%, and preferably ranging from 20% to 50% relative to the total weight of the composition. Thickening agents Depending on the fluidity of the composition which it is desired to obtain, one or more thickening or gelling agents may advantageously be incorporated into a composition of the invention. A thickening or gelling agent suitable for the invention may be hydrophilic, i.e. soluble or dispersible in water. As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may in particular be made of water-soluble or water-dispersible thickening polymers. These may especially be chosen from: carboxyvinyl polymers modified or not, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) by the company Goodrich; polyacrylates and polymethacrylates such as the products sold under the names Lubrajel and Norgel by the company GUARDIAN or under the name Hispagel by the company HISPANO CHIMICA; polyacrylamides; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, optionally cross-linked and / or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) marketed by Clariant under the name "Hostacerin AMPS" "(CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide); crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS, in the form of an W / O emulsion, such as those marketed under the name SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name SIMULGEL 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, locust bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, chitin and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, gellanes, alginates, celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellullose and hydroxypropylcellulose; and their mixtures. A thickening or gelling agent that is suitable for the invention may be lipophilic. It can be mineral or organic. Examples of lipophilic thickening agents that may be mentioned are modified clays, such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone gel VS38 from RHEOX), modified hectorites such as hectorite modified with a fatty acid ammonium chloride, from 0 to 10. 022, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, that sold under the name Bentone 38V® by the company ELEMENTIS or that marketed under the name "Bentone 38 CE" by the company RHEOX company or that marketed under the name Bentone Gel V5 5V by the company ELEMENTIS. Polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, such as those marketed under the names KSG6®, KSG16® and KSG18® by the company SHIN-ETSU, by Trefil E-505C® and Trefil E-506C® by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC®, SR DMF10®, SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC gel®, SR DMF 10 gel® and SR DC 556 gel® by GRANT INDUSTRIES , SF 1204® and JK 113® by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethylcellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel® by Dow Chemical; polycondensates of polyamide type resulting from the condensation between a dicarboxylic acid comprising at least 32 carbon atoms and an alkylene diamine and in particular ethylene diamine, in which the polymer comprises at least one terminal carboxylic acid group esterified or amidated with at least a mono-alcohol or a mono-amine comprising from 12 to 30 linear and saturated carbon atoms, and in particular, ethylene diamine / stearyl dilinoleate copolymers, such as that sold under the name Uniclear 100 VG® by the company ARIZONA CHEMICAL ; galactomannans having from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per sac, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated by C1-C6 alkyl chains, and in particular Ci C3 and mixtures thereof. Block copolymers of the "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) type such as those sold under the name Kraton® by Shell Chemical Co., or else from the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those marketed by the company PENRECO company under the name Versagel® such as, for example, the mixture of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and ethylene / propylene / styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960).

Among the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in a cosmetic composition of the invention, mention may also be made of dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® by the company CHIBA FLOUR, hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as hydrogenated castor oil, fatty alcohols, in particular from C8 to C26, and more particularly from 012 to 022, such as, for example, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or behenyl alcohol. According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise thickening agents with an active material content of from 0.01% to 40% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0% to 20% by weight. , 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one lipophilic thickening agent, in particular at least one modified hectorite, such as a hectorite modified with a C10 to O22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, advantageously with a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 2% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of said composition. Fillers A composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one filler, of organic or mineral nature, which makes it possible, in particular, to impart to it additional properties of dullness, coverage, strength and / or improved stability. The filler content (s) may range from 0.1% to 20% by weight, especially from 1% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

By "charge" is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, they make it possible to impart body or stiffness to the composition and / or softness, and uniformity to makeup. The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber or any other intermediate form between these defined forms. The fillers according to the invention may or may not be superficially coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance which promotes dispersion and compatibility of the filler. the composition. Examples of mineral fillers that may be mentioned include talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass microcapsules or ceramic, silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass. Examples of organic fillers include polyamide powders (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), polyethylene, poly methyl methacrylate, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) powders, copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrap Dow Corning company), lauroyl lysine, polymeric hollow microspheres such as polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel (Nobel Industry), hexamethylene diisocyanate / Trimethylol hexyllactone copolymer powder (Toshiki Plastic Powder), microbeads silicone resins (Toshiba Tospearl, for example), synthetic or natural micronized waxes, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example , zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in US Pat. No. 5,538,793, polyurethane powders, in particular cross-linked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyllactone. In particular, it may be a hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone polymer. Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example, under the name PLASTIC POWDER D-400® or PLASTIC POWDER D-800® from TOSHIKI, and mixtures thereof. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin. The presence of this filler also makes it possible to thicken and / or gel the composition of the invention. The crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder (s) coated with silicone resin may be present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 12% by weight, advantageously from 2% to 10% by weight. weight and preferably from 7% to 9% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Mention may in particular be made of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in US Pat. No. 5,538,793. Such elastomer powders are sold under the names KSP-100®. KSP-101®, KSP102®, KSP-103®, KSP-104® and KSP-105® by SHIN ETSU; mention may also be made of cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, such as hybrid silicone powders functionalized with fluoroalkyl groups, especially sold under the name "KSP-200" by Shin Etsu; or hybrid silicone powders functionalized with phenyl groups, especially sold under the name "KSP-300" by Shin Etsu. Additives A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field concerned, for example selected from gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, gums, resins, dispersants, semi-crystalline polymers, lipophilic structuring agents, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, UV filters, cosmetic actives, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen protectors, and mixtures thereof.

It falls within the routine operations of those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions according to the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties and stability properties of these they are not affected.

UV Filters The composition of the invention may also comprise at least one UV filter. By way of illustration of the UV filters, and in a nonlimiting manner, mention may be made of the following families: anthranilates, in particular menthyl anthranilate; benzophenones, in particular benzophenone-1, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, and preferentially benzophenone-2 (oxybenzone), or Benzophenone-4 (Uvinul MS40® available from BASF); benzylidenecamphers, in particular 3-benzylidene camphor, benzylidenecamphosulfonic acid, camphor benzalkonium methosulphate, polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene di-camphorsulfonic acid, and preferentially 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Eusolex 6300 ® available from Merck); benzimidazoles, in particular benzimidazilate (Neo Heliopan AP® available from Haarmann and Reimer), or phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Eusolex 232® available from Merck); benzotriazoles, in particular trisiloxane drometzol, or methylene bisbenzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M® available from Ciba); cinnamates, in particular cinoxate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, dimethoxycinnamate glyceryl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl cinnamate, and preferably ethocrylene (Uvinul N35® available from BASF), octyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX® available from Hoffmann La Roche), or octocrylene (Uvinul 539® available from BASF); dibenzoylmethanes, especially butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789®); imidazolines, in particular ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline; PABAs, in particular ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyldimethyl PABA, glyceryl PABA, PABA, PEG-25 PABA, and preferentially diethylhexylbutamidotriazone (Uvasorb HEB® available from 3V Sigma), ethylhexyltriazone 35 (Uvinul T150 ® available from BASF), or ethyl PABA (benzocaine); Mexoryle; salicylates, especially dipropylene glycol salicyclate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, or TEA salicylate; triazines, in particular anisotriazine (Tinosorb S® available from Ciba); trisiloxane drometrizole, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide coated or uncoated.

Preferably, cinnamates, salicylates and mixtures thereof, or titanium dioxide are used. According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a UV filter chosen from cinnamates. In a particular embodiment, octyl methoxycinnamate, otherwise known as ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate, is used. The amount of filters depends on the desired end use. It may range, for example, from 1 to 20% by weight and better still from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. A cosmetic makeup composition of the invention may be in the form of a liquid or fluid foundation, a hot cast foundation, a body make-up product, eyelid or an eyeshadow, a makeup base. A care composition according to the invention can be in particular a solar composition, a care cream, a serum or a deodorant. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a fluid foundation. The composition according to the invention can be applied by any means allowing a uniform distribution and in particular with the finger or with the aid of a cotton, a rod, a brush, a gauze, a spatula or buffer, or by spraying, and can be removed by rinsing with water or a mild detergent. The composition according to the invention may be used for the purpose of improving the general condition of an epidermis, in particular the skin, and in particular for maintaining or restoring its physiological functions and / or its aesthetic appearance. Thus, the composition according to the invention can be advantageously used in order to fight against the aging of the epidermis, maintain and / or stimulate hydration and / or fight against drying of the skin, improve the tone of the skin. skin, maintain or restore the suppleness and elasticity of the skin, improve the mineralization of the epidermis, improve the vitality of the epidermis, facilitate inter-cellular exchanges, and fight against chapped and cracked appearance of the skin.

A composition according to the invention may be intended for a cosmetic and / or dermatological application. The present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use, in a cosmetic composition for the make-up and / or care of the skin, of at least one compound derived from jasmonic acid of formula (I) as defined above and at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer as defined above, to prevent skin aging. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method comprising the application on the skin of a composition as defined above. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method of makeup and / or care of the skin comprising a step of applying to the skin at least one layer of a composition as defined above. The present invention also relates to a process for making up the skin in which a composition as defined above is applied.

EXAMPLES Examples 1 and 2 Influence of the Nature of the Surfactant Examples 1 and 2 of W / O emulsion make it possible to show the influence of the structure of the silicone elastomer surfactant on the stability of the composition. For all these examples, the content of silicone elastomer surfactant is 2% by weight of active material (dry matter of silicone emulsifier emulsifier) relative to the total weight of said composition. When the mixture is mixed with one or more other components, the mixing ratio is adjusted to maintain this value. EXAMPLES 1-2% by mass A Silicone surfactant X Modified hectorite sold under the reference BENTONE 38 VCG by the company 0.40 ELEMENTIS Polydimethylsiloxane (5 cSt) 10.00 Polydimethylsiloxane (10 cSt) 5.00 Mixture of p-hydroxybenzoates methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isobutyl / 1.00 phenoxy -2 ethanol sold under the reference Phenonip by the company Clariant B Demineralized water qs Glycerol 10.00 Sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acetic acid in a mixture 6.70 water / dipropylene glycol (32/48/20) TOTAL 100% The compositions were prepared according to the following procedure. Procedure The constituents of phase A are weighed into the main beaker and then homogenized with a Raynerie stirrer at a speed of 400 rpm at room temperature. The constituents of phase B are weighed separately and homogenized using a magnetic stirrer at room temperature. The emulsification is then carried out by pouring phase B into the main beaker while gradually increasing the stirring speed to 2500 rpm, which stirring is then maintained for 5 to 10 minutes depending on the consistency of the product. The whole is stirred for two minutes at 1500 rpm and the product is packaged in a glass jar.

Emulsification Results The macroscopic quality of the emulsion is judged at the end of the stirring: Ex. 1 Ex. 2 (Invention) (Invention) Surfactant Dimethicone / PEG-10/15 crosspolymer Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 silicone sold under the reference KSG 210 by Crosspolymer sold under the reference Shin-Etsu 25% active ingredient KSG 710 by Shin-Etsu% X 8.00 8.22% Water 58.90 58.68 Stability White homogeneous emulsion Coarse emulsion and The silicone elastomer surfactants which comprise a polyglycerolated hydrophilic chain do not make it possible to obtain a stable emulsion compared with silicone elastomer surfactants comprising an oxyalkylenated hydrophilic chain and which do not contain alkyl chains having at least 2 carbon atoms. EXAMPLE 3 Mass% Al Dimethicone / PEG-10/15 crosspolymer sold under the reference 16.00 (ie 4% active ingredient) KSG 210 by Shin-Etsu at 25% active A2 modified Hectorite sold under the reference BENTONE 38 VCG 0.40 by ELEMENTIS Polydimethylsiloxane (5 cSt) 14.22 Polydimethylsiloxane (10 cSt) 11.58 A3 Polydimethylsiloxane (5 cSt) 7.20 Yellow iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 2.15 Red iron oxide coated with stearoyl aluminum glutamate 0.64 Black iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 0.23 Titanium dioxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 8.98 B Demineralized water 25.90 Glycerol 5.00 Sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentane acetic acid in a mixture of 6.70 water / dipropylene glycol (32/48/20) Mixture of methyl, ethyl and propyl p-hydroxybenzoates butyl, isobutyl / 1.00 phenoxy -2 ethanol sold under the reference Phenonip by the company Clariant 10 TOTAL 100% The compositions were prepared according to the following procedure. Procedure The components of phase A2 are weighed into the main beaker and mixed with a magnetic stirrer for 30 minutes at 75-80 ° C. Phase A1 is then added, still with magnetic stirring. Phase A3 is prepared separately by grinding the mixture of pigments and polydimethylsiloxane three times with a three-roll mill. The pigment phase is then incorporated into the main beaker by mixing with a Moritz-type stirrer at a rate of 1000 to 1200 rpm for 15 minutes while keeping the beaker at room temperature using a bain-marie. The components of phase B are weighed separately, which is homogenized at room temperature using a magnetic stirrer. The emulsification is then carried out at a temperature close to ambient, by pouring phase B into the main beaker and gradually increasing the stirring speed to 4500 rpm, which is then maintained for 10 minutes. . The product is finally packaged in a glass jar. The composition is stable and has good cosmetic application properties.

Example 4: Foundation Example 4% by mass Al Dimethicone / PEG-10/15 crosspolymer sold under the reference 20,28 (or 5.7% active ingredient) KSG 210 by Shin-Etsu Ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate 7.50 A2 Oxychloride bismuth 2.00 A3 Dimethicone 2cSt 5.79 microspheres (copolymer vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile / methacrylate 0.20 methyl) expanded with isobutane sold under the reference Expancel 551 DE 40 D42 by the company Akzo Nobel A4 Mica synthetic (fluorophlogopite) 1.44 A5 Cyclohexasiloxane 6.00 Yellow iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 2.03 Red iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 0.58 Black iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 0.17 Titanium dioxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 10.22 B Demineralized water 25.64 Butylene glycol 5.00 1,3-Propanediol 5.00 Phenoxyethanol 0.70 Magnesium sulphate 0.70 Sorbitol 0.50 Salt 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane ac sodium in a mixture 6.20 water / dipropylene glycol (32/48/20) C Perfume 0.05 TOTAL 100% The compositions were prepared according to the following procedure. Procedure The constituents of phase Al are weighed into the main beaker and then homogenized with a Raynerie stirrer at a rate of 1200 rpm at room temperature. Phase A2 is then added, then phase A3, which has been prepared beforehand by manual pasting, and finally phase A4, while stirring for 15 minutes until homogenization.

Phase A5 is prepared separately by grinding three times with the three-cylinder, the mixture of pigments and cyclohexasiloxane. The A5 phase is added to the main beaker by gradually increasing the stirring speed of the Raynerie up to 1500 rpm, and the stirring is then continued for 20 minutes while keeping the beaker at room temperature using a bath. -married. The constituents of phase B are weighed separately with the exception of the derivative of jasmonic acid and phenoxyethanol. The mixture is homogenized using a magnetic stirrer at a temperature of about 30-35 ° C., and then the jasmonic acid derivative and phenoxyethanol are incorporated. The emulsification is then carried out at room temperature by pouring phase B into the main beaker and gradually increasing the agitation speed to 2500-3000 rpm, which is then maintained for 10 minutes. Then the stirring rate is slightly reduced and the perfume added. The whole is stirred for two minutes and the product is packaged in a glass jar. The composition is stable and has good cosmetic application properties.

Claims (16)

REVENDICATIONS1. Composition, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, said composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium containing: at least one jasmonic acid derivative compound of formula (I) below: OH 10 (I) in which: R1 represents a radical COOR3, R3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups; . R2 represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear comprising from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or branched or cyclic comprising from 3 to 18 carbon atoms; as well as their optical isomers, and corresponding salts; and at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated hydrophilic chain and being free of alkyl chain having at least 2 carbon atoms. 2. The composition according to claim 1, wherein in the formula (I), R1 is selected from the group consisting of: -COOH, -COOCH3, -COO-CH2-CH3, -COO-CH2-CH (OH) -CH2OH, -COOCH2-CH2-CH2OH and -COOCH2-CH (OH) -CH3. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein, in formula (I), R2 is a hydrocarbon radical, linear, saturated or unsaturated, having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms. 4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein in the formula (I), R1 is -COOH. 5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 wherein in formula (I) R2 is selected from the group consisting of pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl and heptyl. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the compound of formula (I) is 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acetic acid or the sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-acid. 2-pentyl-cyclopentane acetic acid. 7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the compound of formula (I) is carried in the aqueous phase and in a content ranging from 0.001% to 10%, in particular from 0.1% to 8%, and preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. 8. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the emulsifying silicone elastomer is selected from polyoxyalkylene silicone elastomers. 9. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the emulsifying silicone elastomer is present in a content of from 0.1% to 15%, preferably from 0.5% to 10%, and more preferably from 1% to 6% by weight of active ingredient (dry matter), relative to the total weight of said composition. 10. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the emulsifying silicone elastomer comprises at least one polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylene chain. 11. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, further comprising a coloring matter, preferably in the form of pigments. 12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, wherein the aqueous phase comprises water, optionally mixed with solvents and / or water-soluble additives. 35 13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, comprising at least one UV filter, said UV filter is preferably selected from cinnamates, and is preferably ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate. 14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, in the form of a fluid foundation. 15. Non-therapeutic cosmetic use, in a cosmetic composition for the make-up and / or care of the skin, of at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer, and at least one compound derived from jasmonic acid, for preventing the cutaneous aging, the compound derived from jasmonic acid corresponding to the following formula (I): embedded image in which: R1 represents a radical COOR3, R3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups; . R2 represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or branched or cyclic having 3 to 18 carbon atoms; as well as their optical isomers, and corresponding salts; and said emulsifying silicone elastomer comprising at least one oxyalkylenated hydrophilic chain and being free of alkyl chain having at least 2 carbon atoms. 16. Non-therapeutic method of makeup and / or skin care comprising a step of applying to the skin at least one layer of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14.