FR3045328A1

FR3045328A1 - EMULSION CONTAINING AT LEAST ONE EMULSIFYING SILICONE ELASTOMER, HYDROPHOBIC COATED PIGMENTS AND A LOW-LOW FAT PHASE

Info

Publication number: FR3045328A1
Application number: FR1562610A
Authority: FR
Inventors: Elodie Valverde
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2015-12-17
Filing date: 2015-12-17
Publication date: 2017-06-23
Anticipated expiration: 2035-12-17
Also published as: FR3045328B1

Abstract

La présente invention concerne concerne une composition sous forme d'émulsion, notamment comprenant un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, notamment de revêtement des matières kératiniques, plus particulièrement de maquillage et/ou de soin des matières kératiniques, telles que la peau, contenant : - au moins une phase aqueuse ; et - au moins une phase huileuse à une concentration inférieure à 30,0 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition; et - au moins un élastomère de silicone émulsionnant ; et - au moins un pigment enrobé hydrophobe. L'invention concerne également un procédé de revêtement des matières kératiniques, plus particulièrement de maquillage et/ou de soin des matières kératiniques, telle que la peau, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend l'application sur les matières kératiniques d'une composition telle que définie précédemmentThe present invention relates to a composition in the form of an emulsion, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, containing: at least an aqueous phase; and at least one oily phase at a concentration of less than 30.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and - at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer; and at least one hydrophobic coated pigment. The invention also relates to a process for coating keratin materials, more particularly makeup and / or care of keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to keratin materials of a composition such as as previously defined

Description

Emulsion containing at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer, hydrophobic coated pigments and a low-grade fatty phase

The present invention aims to provide, for the field of skincare and / or make-up, keratinous substances, in particular skin and / or lips, and in particular skin, and keratinous fibers, in particular eyebrows, a new emulsion, particularly interesting in view of its technical performance and sensory sensations that it provides to the user when it is applied on them and in particular on the skin.

Cosmetic compositions, for example foundations, are commonly used to bring an aesthetic color to the skin, but also to embellish uneven skin by allowing to hide stains and dyschromias, to reduce the visibility of relief imperfections such as pores and wrinkles, and hide pimples and traces of acne, in this respect coverage is one of the main properties sought.

Emulsions are generally attractive especially in the context of foundations for the consumer as easy to apply. For such compositions, it is often sought significant coverage to hide skin defects and homogenize the complexion. Such coverage is often achieved by using a high proportion of pigments which leads to a very dull and unnatural result. However, the emulsions generally used in make-up tend to produce on the skin during the application a feeling of greasiness, a feeling of heaviness, a lack of freshness and / or a lack of natural radiance of the complexion. It is also important that the pigments present in these compositions have good dispersibility in order to obtain a stable and homogeneous composition. Hydrophobic coated pigments are particularly interesting especially in foundations because they provide better adhesion, better hold, and also have a better cosmetic application.

US20130345317, US2015250706, EP2264000, US20150174047 disclose skin-moisturizing compositions in the form of emulsions comprising an emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer, an oily phase comprising a silicone oil. These formulations have not been proposed for the makeup of keratin materials nor to contain hydrophobic coated pigments.

There remains the need to find new emulsions based on hydrophobic coated pigments, stable and homogeneous, which confer good makeup properties such as good coverage, good gloss giving the complexion a natural glow and good sensory properties such as the freshness, lightness to the application, a non-greasy effect without the previously mentioned disadvantages.

The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that this objective could be achieved with a composition in the form of an emulsion, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular for coating keratin materials, more particularly for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, such as that the skin, containing: - at least one aqueous phase; and at least one oily phase at a concentration of less than 30.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and - at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer; and at least one hydrophobic coated pigment.

This discovery is the basis of the invention.

Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a composition in the form of an emulsion, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as that the skin, containing: - at least one aqueous phase; and at least one oily phase at a concentration of less than 30.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and - at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer; and at least one hydrophobic coated pigment. The invention also relates to a process for coating keratin materials, more particularly makeup and / or care of keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to keratin materials of a composition such as as defined previously Definitions

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "emulsion" is intended to mean any composition comprising at least two phases that are liquid at room temperature (20-25 ° C.) and immiscible with each other; one of the two phases being dispersed in the other phase in the form of droplets so as to observe a mixture macroscopically homogeneous with the naked eye, in particular said composition comprises at least one aqueous phase and at least one oily phase.

In particular, the emulsions according to the invention may be oil-in-water emulsions also called direct emulsions, namely consisting of a continuous aqueous phase in which the oily phase is dispersed in the form of droplets so as to observe a macroscopically homogeneous mixture. to the naked eye.

In particular, the emulsions according to the invention may be water-in-oil emulsions (W / O), also called inverse emulsions, namely consisting of a continuous oily phase in which the aqueous phase is dispersed in the form of droplets so as to observe a macroscopically homogeneous mixture with the naked eye.

In the context of the present invention, the term "keratinous material" is understood to mean the skin (body, face, eye contour), the lips, the eyelashes and the eyebrows. More particularly, the term "keratinous material" is understood to mean the skin.

By "physiologically acceptable" is meant compatible with the skin and / or its integuments, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness), likely to divert the consumer from the skin. use this composition.

Emulsifying silicone elastomer

By "silicone elastomer" is meant a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties and especially the consistency of a sponge or a soft sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is able to recover its original shape after stretching.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "emulsifying silicone elastomer" an amphiphilic silicone elastomer, that is to say having two parts of different polarity. In general, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oily phase), in particular constituted by the organopolysiloxane chain. The other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water), in particular consisting of polyoxyalkylenated groups and / or polyglycerolated groups. The emulsifying silicone elastomers are characterized by the value of their HLB (hydrophilic lipophilic balance or hydrophilic-lipophilic balance), the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described for example in The HLB System. A Time-saving Guide to Emulsifying Selection "(published by ICI Americas Inc., 1984). For emulsifying surfactants, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of W / O emulsions and from 8 to 18 for the preparation of O / W emulsions. The HLB of the surfactant (s) used according to the invention can be determined by the Griffin method or the Davies method. The emulsifying silicone elastomer may be chosen from polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers, polyglycerolated silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof. a) Polvoxvalkylene Silicone Elastomers The polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane obtainable by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and a polyoxyalkylene having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups.

Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A1) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B1) of polyoxyalkylenated having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence (C1) platinum catalyst, as for example described in US5236986 and US5412004.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated polyoxyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene) and of trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst.

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of the compound (A1) can be alkyl groups having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group.

The compound (A1) can thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers, dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane cyclic copolymers, and trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers.

Compound (C1) is the catalyst of the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum. on support.

Advantageously, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers can be formed from divinyl compounds, in particular polyoxyalkylenes having at least two vinyl groups, reacting with Si-H bonds of a polysiloxane. The polyoxyalkylene silicone elastomer according to the invention is preferably mixed with at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the polyoxyalkylene elastomer may be in the form of non-spherical particles.

Polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are described in particular in patents US5236986, US5412004, US5837793, US5811487.

As polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers, those of the following INCI name may be used:

Dimethicone / PEG-10/15-Crosspolymer, PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-10 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-10 Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone / PPG-20 Crosspolymer, and mixtures thereof.

They are especially marketed under the names KSG® by the company Shin Etsu "KSG-210®" INCI name: Dimethicone and Dimethicone / PEG-10/15-Crosspolymer "KSG-310®" INCI name: PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Ore oil; "KSG-320®" INCI Name: PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer and

Isododecane; "KSG-330®" INCI Name: PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer and

Triethylhexanoin; "KSG-340®" INCI Name: Squalane and PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer and PEG-10 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

They are especially marketed by Dow Corning under the name "Dow Corning 9011 Silicone Elastomer Blend ®"; INCI Name: Cyclopentasiloxane and PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer

There may also be mentioned the product sold under the name Dow Corning EL-7040 Hydro Elastomer Blend® by the company Dow Corning for the INCI name compound: PEG-12 Dimethicone / PPG-20 Crosspolymer. b) Poly-Glycerolated Silicone Elastomers The polyglycerolated silicone elastomer is an elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane obtainable by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and polyglycerolated compounds having ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence of of platinum catalyst.

Preferably, the crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer is obtained by addition reaction crosslinking (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) glycerol compounds having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, in particular presence (C) of platinum catalyst.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated polyglycerol compound and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst.

The compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer and the crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of the compound (A) with the compound (B) in the presence of the catalyst (C).

The compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least 2 hydrogen atoms bonded to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule.

The compound (A) may have any molecular structure, in particular a linear chain or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.

The compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular to be well miscible with the compound (B).

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of the compound (A) may be alkyl groups having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group. Preferably, said organic group is chosen from methyl, phenyl and lauryl groups.

The compound (A) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers, cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers, and trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers.

The compound (B) may be a polyglycerolated compound corresponding to the following formula (B '):

Wherein m is an integer from 2 to 6, n is an integer from 2 to 200, preferably from 2 to 100, preferably from 2 to 200, preferably from from 2 to 50, preferably n ranging from 2 to 20, preferably ranging from 2 to 10, and preferably ranging from 2 to 5, and in particular equal to 3; Gly means: -CH2-CH (0H) -CH2-0- or -CH2-CH (CH20H) -O-

Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (B) and the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of the compound (A) is at least 4.

It is advantageous that the compound (A) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in the compound (A) and the total amount of all the groups to Ethylenic unsaturation in the compound (B) is in the range of 1/1 to 20/1.

Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum. on support.

The catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A) and ( B). The polyglycerolated silicone elastomer according to the invention is generally mixed with at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the polyglycerolated elastomer is often in the form of non-spherical particles.

Such elastomers are described in particular in patent application WO2004 / 024798.

As polyglycerolated silicone elastomers, the following compounds of INCI name can be used:

Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer,

Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, and mixtures thereof.

They are in particular sold by Shin Etsu under the following names: "KSG-710®"; INCI Name: Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer and Dimethicone "KSG-810®"; INCI Name: Mineral Oil and Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer; "KSG-820®"; INCI name: Isododecane and Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer; "KSG-830®"; INCI name: Triethylhexanoin and Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer; "KSG-840®"; INCI name: Squalane and Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer.

According to one preferred embodiment, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer Dimethicone / PEG-10/15-Crosspolymer will be used and especially in the form of a mixture with a dimethicone (INCI name: Dimethicone and Dimethicone / PEG-10/15-Crosspolymer) such as the product sold under the name KSG-210® by Shin Etsu.

The emulsifying silicone elastomer (s) is present in the composition of the invention preferably in an active material content of less than 2.50% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.10% to 2.00%, and even more preferably, ranging from 0.50% to 1.50% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

AQUEOUS PHASE

The aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention comprises water and optionally any ingredient that is soluble or miscible in water, such as water-soluble solvents.

The aqueous phase is present in the composition in a content, preferably ranging from 50 to 90% by weight, more preferably from 60 to 80% by weight, preferably from 65 to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

A water that is suitable for the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.

By "water-soluble solvent" is meant in the present invention a liquid compound at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 C and atmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, mention may be made in particular of lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. carbon such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.

Polyol

According to another embodiment variant, the aqueous phase of a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polyol.

By "polyol" is meant for the purposes of the present invention, any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

Preferably, a polyol according to the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.

A polyol that is suitable for the invention may be a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl compound, saturated or unsaturated, bearing at least two -OH functions on the alkyl chain, in particular at least three -OH functions, and more particularly at minus four functions -OH.

The polyols which are advantageously suitable for formulating a composition according to the present invention are those having in particular 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, the polyol may be, for example, chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol and glycerol. polyglycerols, such as oligomers of glycerol such as diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, glycerin, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition of the invention may comprise at least propylene glycol and / or glycerin.

The polyol (s) are preferably present in the composition in a content ranging from 5 to 30%, better still from 10 to 25% by weight, and preferably from 15 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

OIL PHASE The emulsion of the invention also comprises an oily phase. Said phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at ambient temperature (20-25 ° C.). Preferably, the water-immiscible organic liquid phase in accordance with the invention generally comprises at least one volatile oil and / or a non-volatile oil and optionally any ingredient that is soluble or miscible in the oily phase.

By "oil" is meant a fatty substance that is liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 105 Pa). The oil can be volatile or non-volatile.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 -3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). ).

By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or the keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). . The oil may be chosen from all the oils, which are preferably physiologically acceptable, in particular mineral, animal, vegetable and synthetic oils; in particular volatile and / or nonvolatile hydrocarbon and / or silicone and / or fluorinated oils and mixtures thereof.

More precisely, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functional groups chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions. Generally, the oil has a viscosity of 0.5 to 100,000 mPa.s, preferably 50 to 50,000 mPa.s and more preferably 100 to 300,000 mPa.s.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

The concentration in the oily phase of the emulsion of the invention is less than 30.0% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 25.0% by weight and more preferably ranging from 10 to 25% by weight and more particularly ranging from from 15 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. As an example of a volatile hydrocarbon oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of: hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular enδ-Ο-ιβ-isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or permetyls, branched esters in Οβ-ββ, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell or by Shell, may also be used; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in the patent application by Cognis DE10 2008 012 457. By way of example of a volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of volatile silicones, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicones, especially those having a viscosity <8 centistokes (8 10'6 m2 / s), and having in particular 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally having alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of caprylyl methicone, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane and octamethyl. trisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. As an example of a nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam or squalane; phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, physostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl glutamate / phytostearyl (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203®), triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol in particular, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and especially from C18 to C36, these oils possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils may in particular be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ, sunflower seeds, grape seed oil, sesame seed (820.6 g / mol), corn, apricot, castor oil, shea butter, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, black currant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; shea oil; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel; synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether, hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR 'in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, such as cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, palmitate of 2-ethyl-hexyl, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, diheptanoate polyethylene glycol, diethyl 2-propylene glycol hexanoate and mixtures thereof, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acid such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, neopentanoate d isostearyl, octyl-2-dodecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate; lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebaccate, isoketyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate, myristyl myristate; polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-diol; butanediol. Mention may in particular be made of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H® (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA®. polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate; fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, oleic alcohol; di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis; and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer, ANTARON V-216® sold or manufactured by ISP, linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, hydroxylated esters such as polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate; aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate, benzoate of C 12 -C 15 alcohols, 2-phenyl ethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyl octyl salicylate, esters of fatty alcohol or branched fatty acids at C24-C28, such as those described in application EP-A-0 955 039, and in particular triisoarachidyl citrate, pentaerythrityl tetraisonanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tri-2-tetradecanoate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; , polyglyceryl-2-tetraisostearate or pentaerythrityl tetradecyl-2 tetradecanoate, esters and polyesters of diol dimer and mono- or dicarboxylic acid, such as dimer diol esters of fatty acid and esters of dimer diols and dimer dicarboxylic acid, such as the Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7® marketed by the company Nippon Fine Chemical and described in the application US 2004-175338, the content of which is incorporated in the present application by reference - and their mixtures.

According to one particular embodiment, the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from liquid organic lipophilic UV filters.

By "liquid organic lipophilic UV filter" is meant any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing at least the UV radiation in the range of wavelengths between 280 and 400 nm; said molecule being in liquid form at room temperature (20-25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and capable of being miscible in an oily phase.

The organic liquid UV filters that can be used according to the invention can be chosen from: liquid lipophilic β, β-diphenylacrylate compounds-liquid lipophilic salicylate compounds-liquid lipophilic cinnamic compounds-and mixtures thereof. i) 3.3-diphenylacrylate compounds

Among the liquid organic lipophilic UVB filters that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the liquid lipophilic alkyl, β, β-diphenylacrylate or α-cyano-β, β-diphenylacrylate compounds of formula (I) below:

(I) in which R 1 to R 3 may have the following meanings: R 1 and R 1, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a straight or branched chain C 1 -C 6 alkoxy radical or a C 1 -C alkyl radical; C4 straight or branched chain, - Ri and R'1 being para para position; R2 represents a straight or branched chain C1-C12 alkyl radical; - R3 represents a hydrogen atom or the CN radical.

Among the straight or branched chain C1-C6 alkoxy radicals, mention may be made, for example, of methoxy, ethoxy, n-propoxy, isopropoxy, n-butoxy, isobutoxy, tert-butoxy, n-amyloxy, isoamyloxy and neopentyloxy radicals. -hexyloxy, n-heptyloxy, n-octyloxy and 2-ethylhexyloxy.

Among the straight or branched chain C1-C4 alkyl radicals, there may be mentioned more particularly the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl and tert-butyl radicals. For the C 1 -C 12 alkyl radicals, there may be mentioned by way of example, in addition to those mentioned above, the n-amyl, isoamyl, neopentyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl and n-octyl radicals, 2 ethylhexyl, decyl and lauryl.

Among the compounds of general formula (I), the following compounds are more particularly preferred: 2-ethyl hexyl α-cyano-2-diphenylacrylate or octocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL N539®" by BASF. - α-cyano-p, p-diphenylacrylate ethyl such as Etocrylene sold in particular under the trade name "UVINUL N35®" by BASF, - β, β-diphenylacrylate 2-ethyl hexyl, - β, β ethyl di (4'-methoxyphenyl) acrylate.

Among the compounds of general formula (I), 2-ethyl hexyl 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate or Octocrylene compound is more particularly preferred. Ii) Salicylate compounds

Among the liquid lipophilic salicylate compounds that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of: Homosalate sold under the name Eusolex HMS® by Rona / EM Industries, Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan OS® by Symrise. iii) Cinnamate compounds

Among the liquid lipophilic cinnamine compounds that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL MCX® by DSM Nutritial Products, Isopropyl methoxycinnamate, Isoamyl methoxycinnamate sold under the name commercial NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 by Symrise®,

Among the liquid lipophilic filters according to the invention, the compound Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate will be used more particularly.

Among the non-volatile fluorinated and / or silicone oils, mention may be made of: fluorinated oils that may be partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers or fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847752; silicone oils, such as non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.

Preferably, the oily phase comprises at least one silicone oil and even more preferably chosen from cyclic silicone volatile oils having a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 cSt and in particular having from 4 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular selected from hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (cyclohexasiloxane), and mixtures thereof; volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) (INCI name: DIMETHICONE); phenyl silicones; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising aliphatic groups, in particular alkyl or alkoxy, which are pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain; these groups each comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly caprylyl methicone such as the commercial product Dow Corning FZ-3196® by the company Dow Corning; - their mixtures.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the oily phase comprises at least one silicone oil as defined above and at least one liquid lipophilic organic UV filter as defined above.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the oily phase comprises at least ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and caprylylmethicone.

HYDROPHOBIC COATED PIGMENTS

The term "pigments" means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition and / or the resulting film. These pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

By "hydrophobic coated pigment" is meant any pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

By "lipophilic compound" is meant any compound that is soluble or dispersible in an oily phase.

By "hydrophobic compound" is meant by any compound insoluble in water.

According to a particular embodiment, the hydrophobic modified pigments used according to the invention are chosen from inorganic pigments.

By "inorganic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue , chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments can also be used: Ta 2 O 5, Ti 3 O 5, Ti 2 O 3, TiO, ZrO 2 mixed with TiO 2, ZrO 2, Nb 2 O 5, CeO 2, ZnS.

The particle size of the coated pigment is strictly greater than 100 nm.

For the purposes of the invention, the "size" of a particle means its D50. The D50, or volume mean size, corresponds to the particle size defined so that 50% by volume of the particles are smaller than D50.

The average volume size can be appreciated by diffraction of light using a Malvern MasterSizer laser granulometer, said particles to be evaluated being dispersed in a liquid medium such as for example octyldodecyl neopentanoate.

According to one embodiment, the size of the pigment particles according to the invention ranges from 100 nm to 25 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 10 μm.

In the context of the present invention, the hydrophobic modified mineral pigments are more particularly hydrophobic modified pigments of iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide.

It may also be nacres and / or particles with metallic reflections.

By "nacres", it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized, and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs.

Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.

The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection.

Advantageously, the nacres according to the invention are micas coated with titanium dioxide or iron oxide and bismuth oxychloride.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "particles with a metallic sheen" means any compound whose nature, size, structure and surface state allows it to reflect the incident light, in particular in a non-iridescent manner.

The particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from: particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative; particles comprising a substrate, organic or inorganic, monomaterial or multimaterial, at least partially covered by at least one metal-reflecting layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative; and - mixtures of said particles.

Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te. Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (eg, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

The term "metal derivatives" denotes compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulphides.

Coating of the pigment

The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound. The coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound. For the purposes of the invention, the "coating" of a pigment according to the invention generally refers to the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

The surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to chemical, electronic, mechano-chemical or mechanical surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used. The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of a coating of the pigments. The coating may represent from 0.1 to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5 to 10% by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigment. The coating may be carried out, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface agent on the surface of the solid particles by simply stirring the particles and said surfactant, optionally while hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other particles. ingredients of the makeup or care composition. The coating may be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,578,266.

The chemical surface treatment may consist in diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface pigments.

Lipophilic or hydrophobic treatment agent According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluorosilicone surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and their mixtures.

Silicone surface agent

According to a particular embodiment, the pigments may be surface-treated wholly or partially with a compound of a silicone nature.

Silicone surfactants may be chosen from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof.

By "organopolysiloxane compound" is meant a compound having a structure comprising an alternation of silicon atoms and oxygen atoms and comprising organic radicals bonded to the silicon atoms. i) Non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane

Non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes that may especially be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes, polymethylhydrogensiloxanes and polyalkoxydimethylsiloxanes.

The alkoxy group may be represented by the radical RO- such that R represents methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl radicals, aryl radicals such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl, or substituted aryl radicals such as phenylethyl.

A method for surface treatment of pigments with a polymethylhydrogenosiloxane consists in dispersing the pigments in an organic solvent and then adding the silicone compound. By heating the mixture, covalent bonds are created between the silicone compound and the surface of the pigment. According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone surface agent may be a non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane, especially chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes.

According to one particular form, it is possible to use TRIETHOXYSILYLETHYL POLYDIMETHYLSILOXYETHYL DIMETHICONE as the commercial product sold under the name KF9908® by Shin Etsu. (ii) Alkylsilanes and alkoxysilanes

Alkoxy functional silanes are especially described by Witucki in "Silane primer, Chemistry and applications of alkoxy silanes, Journal of Coatings technology, 65, 822, pages 57-60, 1993".

Alkoxysilanes such as alkyltriethoxysilanes and alkyltrimethoxysilanes sold under the references Silquest A-137 (OSI Specialties) and Prosil 9202 (PCR) can be used for coating the pigments. The use of alkylpolysiloxanes having a reactive end group such as alkoxy, hydroxy, halogen, amino or imino is described in JP 077-196946. They are also suitable for the treatment of pigments. ///) Polymers of silicone-acrvlate

Grafted silicone-acrylic polymers having a silicone backbone as described in US Pat. Nos. 5,725,882, US 5,209,924, US 4,972,037, US 4,981,903, US 4,981,902, US 5,468,477, and in US Pat. No. 5,219,560 and EP 0 388,582 can be used. . Other silicone-acrylate polymers may be silicone polymers comprising in their structure the following unit of formula (I):

(O) in which the radicals G 1, which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or a C 1 -C alkyl radical or a phenyl radical, the radicals G 2, which may be identical or different, represent a C 1 -C 10 alkylene group, G 3 represents a polymeric residue resulting from r (homo) polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer; G4 represents a polymeric residue resulting from r (homo) polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer; m and n are equal to 0 or 1; a is an integer from 0 to 50; b is an integer ranging from 10 to 350; c is an integer from 0 to 50, provided that one of the parameters a and c is different from 0.

Preferably, the unit of formula (I) above has at least one, and even more preferably all, of the following characteristics: the radicals G 1 denote an alkyl radical, preferably the methyl radical; n is nonzero, and the radicals G2 represent a divalent radical C1-C3, preferably a propylene radical; G3 represents a polymeric radical resulting from r (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of the ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid type, preferably acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid; G4 represents a polymeric radical resulting from r (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of the (C 1 -C 10) alkyl (meth) acrylate type, preferably of the isobutyl (meth) acrylate or methyl (meth) acrylate type.

Examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type connecting member, mixed polymeric units of the poly (meth) acrylic acid type. and of the poly (meth) acrylate type. Other examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, via a thiopropylene type connecting member, poly (meth) acrylate type polymer units. isobutyl. iv) Silicone resins The silicone surface agent can be chosen from silicone resins.

By "resin" is meant a three-dimensional structure.

Silicone resins can be soluble or swellable in silicone oils. These resins are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers.

The nomenclature of the silicone resins is known under the name of "MDTQ", the resin being described according to the different siloxane monomer units that it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.

The letter M represents the monofunctional unit of formula (CH 3) 3 SiO 1/2, the silicon atom being connected to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.

The letter D signifies a difunctional unit (CH3) 2SiO2 / 2 in which the silicon atom is connected to two oxygen atoms.

The letter T represents a trifunctional unit of formula (CH3) Si03 / 2

In the units M, D and T defined above, at least one of the methyl groups may be substituted by a group R other than the methyl group such as a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms or a phenyl group or else a hydroxyl group.

Finally, the letter Q signifies a tetra-functional unit S104 / 2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to four hydrogen atoms, themselves linked to the remainder of the polymer.

Various resins of different properties can be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomers (or units), the type and number of substituted radicals, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and size of the hanging chains. By way of example of these silicone resins, mention may be made of: siloxysilicates, which may be trimethylsiloxysilicate of formula [(CH 3) 3 X Si x O] (SiO 4/2) y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80; polysilesquioxanes of formula (CH3SiC> 3/2) x (T units) in which x is greater than 100 and at least one of the methyl radicals may be substituted by a group R as defined above; polymethylsilsesquioxanes which are polysilsesquioxanes in which none of the methyl radicals is substituted by another group. Such polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described in US 5,246,694. As examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those sold: by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK® such as Belsil PMS MK®: polymer comprising repeating units CH3SiO3 / 2 (T units), may also comprise up to 1% by weight of (CH 3) 2 SiC units> 2/2 (D units) and having an average molecular weight of about 10,000; by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L® which are composed of T units of formula CH3SiC> 3/2 and have Si-OH end groups (silanol), under the reference KR-242A which comprise 98% d T units and 2% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups or alternatively under the reference KR-251 comprising 88% of T units and 12% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups. .

As siloxysilicate resins, there may be mentioned trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins optionally in the form of powders. Such resins are sold under the references SR1000®, E 1170-002® or SS 4230®, by the company General Electric or under the references TMS 803®, WACKER 803® and 804® by the company WACKER SILICONE CORPORATION.

Mention may also be made of timethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name "KF-7312J®" by the company Shin-Etsu, "DC 749®", "DC 593®" by the company Dow Corning. By way of example of commercial references of pigments treated with a silicone compound, mention may be made of: the red iron oxide / dimethicone sold under the reference SA-C 338075-10® by the company Miyoshi Kasei; and

Fluoride surfactant

The pigments may be surface-treated wholly or partially with a fluorinated compound.

The fluorinated surfactants may be chosen from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoropolyethylenes (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides and polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups.

The term "perfluoroalkyl radical" is understood to mean an alkyl radical in which all the hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms.

Perfluoropolyethers are described in particular in the patent application EP0486135 and sold under the trade names Fomblin® by the company Montefluos.

Perfluoroalkyl phosphates are in particular described in application JP H05-86984. The perfluoroalkyl phosphate-diethanol amines marketed by Asahi Glass under the reference AsahiGuard AG530® can be used.

Among the linear perfluoroalkanes, mention may be made of perfluorocycloalkanes, perfluoro (alkylcycloalkanes), perfluoropolycycloalkanes, perfluorinated aromatic hydrocarbons (perfluoroarenes) and perfluorinated hydrocarbon compounds containing at least one heteroatom.

Among the perfluoroalkanes, there may be mentioned the series of linear alkanes such as perfluorooctane, perfluorononane or perfluorodecane.

Among the perfluorocycloalkanes and perfluoro (alkylcycloalkanes), there may be mentioned perfluorodecalin sold under the name "FLUTEC PP5 GMP®" by RHODIA, perfluoro (methyldecalin), perfluoro (C3-C5 alkylcyclohexanes) such as perfluoro (butylcyclohexane).

Among the perfluoropolycycloalkanes, mention may be made of bicyclo [3.3.1] nonane derivatives such as perfluorotrimethylbicyclo [3.3.1] nonane, adamantane derivatives such as perfluorodimethyladamantane and perfluorinated derivatives of hydrogenated phenanthrene such as tetracosafluorotetradecahydrophenanthrene. .

Among the perfluoroarenes, mention may be made of perfluorinated derivatives of naphthalene such as perfluoronaphthalene and perfluoromethyl-1-naphthalene. By way of example of commercial references of pigments treated with a fluorinated compound, mention may be made of: yellow iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Yellow 601® by the company Daito Kasei; the red iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Red R 516L® by the company Daito Kasei; black iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 Black BL 100® by the company Daito Kasei;

titanium dioxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 T1O2 CR 50® by the company Daito Kasei; yellow iron oxide / perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether sold under the reference Iron oxide yellow BF-25-3® by the company Toshiki; DC Red 7 / perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether sold under the reference D & C Red 7 FHC® by Cardre Inc.; and the DC Red 6 / PTFE sold under the reference T 9506® by the company Warner-Jenkinson.

Fluoro-silicone surface agent

The pigments may be totally or partially surface-treated with a fluoro-silicone compound.

The fluoro-silicone compound may be chosen from perfluoroalkyl dimethicones, perfluoroalkyl silanes and perfluoroalkyl trialkoxysilanes.

Perfluoroalkyl silanes include LP-IT® and LP-4T® products marketed by Shin-Etsu Silicone.

Perfluoroalkyl dimethicones may be represented by the following formula:

R represents a linear or branched divalent alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a divalent methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group;

Rf represents a perfluoroalkyl radical having 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms; m is selected from 0 to 150, preferably from 20 to 100; and n is chosen from 1 to 300, preferably from 1 to 100. By way of example of commercial references of pigment treated with a fluoro-silicone compound, mention may be made of titanium dioxide / fluorosilicone sold under the reference Fluorosil Titanium dioxide 100TA® by Advanced Dermaceuticals International Inc.

Other lipophilic surfactants The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from: i) metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, and aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; As metal soaps, mention may be made in particular of metal fatty acid soaps having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular those having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

The metal soap metal may in particular be zinc or magnesium.

As the metal soap, zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof can be used. ii) fatty acids such as lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid; iii) N-acyl amino acids or their salts which may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group; The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

The salts of these compounds may be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.

Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, an N-acylated amino acid derivative may in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, such as, for example, stearoyl glutamate. 'aluminum. This is for example the NAI surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi. iv) lecithin and its derivatives such as hydrogenated lecithin such as the HLC surface treatment marketed by LCW; v) triisostearyl isopropyl titanate; As examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT), mention may be made of those sold under the commercial reference BTD-401® (Titanium Dioxide CI77891 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate), BBO-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77499 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate), BYO-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77492 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate), and BRO-I2® (Iron Oxide CI77491 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate) by KOBO. vi) isostearyl sebacate; (vii) natural vegetable or animal waxes or polar synthetic waxes; viii) fatty esters, in particular by jojoba esters; ix) phospholipids; and x) their mixtures.

The waxes mentioned in the compounds mentioned above may be those generally used in the cosmetics field, as defined below.

They can in particular be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin.

The term "polar wax" means a wax containing chemical compounds comprising at least one polar group. Polar groups are well known to those skilled in the art; it may be for example an alcohol, ester, carboxylic acid group. Polyester waxes, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerite, Fisher-Tropsch waxes are not included in the polar waxes.

In particular, the polar waxes have a mean solubility parameter δa of Hansen at 25 ° C such that 5a> 0 (J / cm3) 1/2 and better 5a> 1 (J / cm3) 172:

where δρ and 5h are respectively the polar and interaction-specific contributions to Hansen's solubility parameters.

The definition of solvents in the three-dimensional solubility space according to HANSEN is described in the article by CM HANSEN, "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967): - 5h characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bonds, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.); δρ characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles.

Solubility parameters are calculated with HSPiP v4.1 software.

The parameters δρ and ôh are expressed in (J / cm3) 172

A polar wax consists in particular of molecules comprising, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms in their chemical structure, heteroatoms (such as O, N, P). By way of non-limiting illustration of these polar waxes, mention may be made especially of natural polar waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, orange wax, lemon wax, and insect waxes. China, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, japanese wax and sumach wax, montan wax.

According to a particular embodiment, the pigments may be coated with at least one compound chosen from N-acylamino acids or their salts; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; silicone surfactants; natural vegetable or animal waxes; hydrogenated lecithin, fatty esters; and their mixtures.

According to a more particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments may be coated with an N-acylated amino acid and / or a salt thereof, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, especially a stearoyl glutamate. such as aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

According to a more particularly preferred embodiment, use will be made of hydrophobic coated pigments selected from titanium dioxides and iron oxides, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example sold under the reference NAI® by MIYOSHI KASEI.

According to a more particularly preferred embodiment, use will be made of hydrophobic coated pigments chosen from titanium dioxides and iron oxides coated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT), those sold under the trade reference BTD-401®. (Titanium Dioxide CI77891 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate), BBO-I2® (Iran Oxide CI77499 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate), BYO-I2® (Iran Oxide CI77492 and Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate), and BRO-I2® (Iran Oxide CI77491 and Isopropyl Titanium) Triisostearate) by the company KOBO.

The hydrophobic coated pigments are present in a composition of the invention, preferably in a proportion of at least 5% by weight, more preferably ranging from 5 to 25% by weight, still more preferably ranging from 8 to 15% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a more particularly preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises an oily phase at a concentration of less than or equal to 25% by weight, preferably ranging from 10% to 25% by weight and more particularly ranging from 15% to 20% by weight. % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. relative to the total weight of the composition; and at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer having an active material content of less than 2.5%, more preferably ranging from 0.10% to 2.00%, even more preferentially, ranging from 0.50% to 1.50%; % by weight relative to the total weight of said composition; and at least one hydrophobic coated pigment in a concentration of at least 5% by weight, more preferably ranging from 5% to 25% by weight and even more preferably ranging from 8% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .

ADDITIONAL COLORING MATERIALS

A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional dyestuff and preferably at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly with respect to the intensity of the desired color effect and the colonel intensity provided by the dyestuffs considered and its adjustment is clearly within the competence of the man of the art.

A composition according to the invention may comprise from 0.01 to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 25% by weight, in particular from 1 to 20% by weight and preferably from 5 to 15% by weight of materials. dyes, relative to the total weight of said composition.

As specified above, the dyestuffs that are suitable for the invention can be water-soluble but also fat-soluble.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "water-soluble dyestuff" means any generally organic compound, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase, or water-miscible and colorable solvents. As water-soluble dyes that are suitable for the invention, water-soluble synthetic or natural dyes, such as, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beet), carmine, chlorophylline copper, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin.

The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice and caramel.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "liposoluble coloring matter" means any generally organic compound, natural or synthetic, soluble in an oily phase, or solvents miscible with a fatty substance and capable of coloring. As liposoluble dyes that are suitable for the invention, liposoluble, synthetic or natural dyes, such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11 can be mentioned. , DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes (β-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow , annatto, curcumin.

It may especially be hydrophobic uncoated pigments, hydrophobic uncoated pearlescent agents and / or hydrophobic unglazed metallic reflective particles.

By "hydrophobic uncoated pigment" is meant any pigment not being coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

The additional pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

Hydrophobic non-coated mineral pigments that can be used in the invention include oxides or dioxides of titanium, zirconium or cerium, as well as oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, ferric blue, and manganese violet. ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate, and mixtures thereof.

It may also be a pigment having a structure which may for example be sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica. Such a pigment is marketed for example under the reference Coverleaf NS® or JS® by the company Chemicals And Catalysts and has a contrast ratio of about 30.

It may also be pigments having a structure which may be, for example, silica microspheres type containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is that marketed by Miyoshi under the name PC Bail PC-LL-100 P®, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

Advantageously, the additional pigments according to the invention are iron oxides and / or titanium dioxides.

Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the nacres Timica, Flamenco® and Duochrome® (based on mica) marketed by ENGELHARD, the nacres Timiron marketed by Merck, nacres based on mica Prestige marketed by the Eckart company and the nacres based on Sunshine synthetic mica sold by the company Sun Chemical.

Advantageously, the nacres according to the invention are micas coated with titanium dioxide or iron oxide and bismuth oxychloride. As an illustration of these additional metal-reflecting particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those sold under the names Starbrite 1200 EAC® by the company Siberline and Metalure® by the company Eckart and glass particles coated with a metal layer including those described in JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.

EXPENSES

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more filler (s) conventionally used in skincare and / or makeup compositions.

These fillers are colorless or solid white particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

Of mineral or organic nature, natural or synthetic, they make it possible to confer on the composition containing them softness, dullness and uniformity in makeup. In addition, these fillers advantageously make it possible to fight against various aggressions such as sebum or sweat. As an illustration of these fillers, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, poly-p-alanine and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon®), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industry), acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba Tospearls®) for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocyanate, hydroxyapatite, barium sulfate, aluminum oxides, polyurethane powders, fillers composites, hollow silica microspheres, and glass or ceramic microcapsules. It is also possible to use particles, which are in the form of portions of hollow spheres, as described in patent applications JP-2003 128 788 and JP-2000 191 789.

In particular, such fillers may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 25% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 20% by weight, in particular from 1% to 10% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition.

ACTIVE

As active agents that may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of vitamins, sunscreens other than liquid organic lipophilic UV filters and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one active agent.

It is routine for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the additives present in the compositions according to the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties thereof are not not affected.

COMPOSITIONS \

According to a particularly preferred form, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a care composition of the skin and / or keratin fibers, the body or the face, in particular the face.

According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup composition for keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or of the face, in particular the face.

Thus, according to a sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a base composition for makeup.

A composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a foundation.

According to another sub mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup composition of the skin and in particular the face. It can be an eyeshadow or a blush.

According to another sub mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a product for lip makeup, including a lipstick.

According to yet another sub mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a product for makeup and / or eyebrow care.

Such compositions are especially prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

The expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from? R. to ... "must be understood included limits, unless the opposite is specified. The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples and figures presented hereinafter. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a percentage by mass.

EXAMPLE

Example 1: Emulsion E / H Foundation

Operating mode:

The water was heated to 50 ° C. and all the elements of the B phase were incorporated under electromagnetic stirring for 5 minutes, the phase became translucent.

B was allowed to cool. The pigments were milled in phase A1 to the three-cylinder at the 3 openings (large average then small). When the grind was ready, it was introduced into a beaker with A2. The rotor stator (moritzz) was homogenized for 15 minutes at 3000 rpm. The silicone elastomer had to be well dispersed so that it did not form clumps anymore. Rayneri was then agitated with the deflocculating blade 300 rpm. B was added in about 1 minute while stirring was increased to 1000 rpm. The walls were scraped and allowed to stir for a further 2 minutes at 1000 rpm. Stirring was stopped. Example 1 can lead to good results of makeup, coverage and a good natural radiance of the complexion and a pleasant feeling of freshness.

Claims

1. Composition in emulsion form, especially comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, containing: at least one aqueous phase; and at least one oily phase at a concentration of less than 30.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition; and - at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer; and at least one hydrophobic coated pigment.

2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the emulsifying silicone elastomer is chosen from polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers, polyglycerolated silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof.

The composition of claim 2, wherein the polyoxyalkylenated emulsifying silicone elastomer is selected from the following compounds: Dimethicone / PEG-10/15-Crosspolymer, PEG-15 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-10 / Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-10 Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-10 Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, PEG-12 Dimethicone / PPG-20 Crosspolymer, and mixtures thereof.

4. The composition of claim 2, wherein the polyglycerolated emulsifying silicone elastomer is selected from the following compounds: Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, Lauryl Dimethicone / Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer, and mixtures thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the emulsifying silicone elastomer is Dimethicone / PEG-10/15-Crosspolymer and especially in the form of a mixture with a dimethicone.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the emulsifying silicone elastomer or elastomers are present in the composition of the invention preferably in a content of less than 2.50%, more preferably ranging from 0.1 to 2. , 0%, even more preferably, ranging from 0.50 to 1.50% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

7. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the concentration in the oily phase is less than or equal to 25% by weight, and more preferably varies from 10 to 25% by weight, and more particularly ranging from 15% to 20% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the oily phase comprises at least one silicone oil and even more preferably chosen from cyclic silicone volatile oils having a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 cSt and having in particular from 4 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); phenyl silicones; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising aliphatic groups, in particular alkyl or alkoxy, which are pendant and / or at the end of the silicone chain; these groups each comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, - their mixtures.

9. A composition according to claim 8, wherein the oily phase further comprises at least one liquid lipophilic organic UV filter, in particular chosen from: - liquid lipophilic β, β-diphenylacrylate compounds - liquid lipophilic salicylate compounds - liquid lipophilic cinnamic compounds - and their mixtures.

10. Composition according to claim 9, wherein the oily phase comprises at least ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and caprylylmethicone.

11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising an oily phase at a concentration of less than or equal to 25% by weight, preferably ranging from 10% to 25% by weight and more particularly ranging from 15% to 20% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition, and - at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer with an active matter content of less than 2.50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably ranging from 0.10% to 2% by weight. , 00%, even more preferably, ranging from 0.50% to 1.50% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition; and at least one hydrophobic coated pigment in a concentration of at least 5% by weight, more preferably ranging from 5% to 25% by weight and even more preferably ranging from 8% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .

12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the aqueous phase is present in the composition in a content ranging from 50 to 90%, more preferably from 60 to 80% by weight, preferably from 65 to 75% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the aqueous phase comprises at least one polyol.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophobic coated pigments are present in a proportion ranging from 5 to 25% by weight, more preferably ranging from 8 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophobic coated pigments are hydrophobic coated pigments of iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the hydrophobic coated pigments are coated with at least one compound chosen from N-acylamino acids or their salts; isopropyl titanium triisostearate; silicone surfactants; natural vegetable or animal waxes; hydrogenated lecithin, fatty esters; and their mixtures.

17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the hydrophobic coated pigments are coated with: - an N-acylated amino acid and / or a salt thereof, more particularly with a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salts thereof, especially aluminum stearoyl glutamate; or - isopropyl titanium triisostearate.

18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a water-in-oil emulsion.

19. A process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises applying to the keratin materials a composition as defined according to US Pat. any one of claims 1 to 18.