FR2988293A1 - Cosmetic composition, useful for making up and caring skin, comprises non-volatile ester, and emulsifying silicone elastomer, where composition is in form of water-in-oil emulsion including aqueous phase dispersed in fatty phase - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprises at least one non-volatile ester (I), and at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer, where the composition is in the form of water-in-oil emulsion including 45 wt.% of an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase. Composition comprises at least one non-volatile ester of formula (R1COOR2) (I), and at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer, where the composition is in the form of water-in-oil emulsion including 45 wt.% of an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase. R1, R2 : linear or branched 4-40C, preferably 10C hydrocarbyl chain, where the sum of the number of carbon atoms of R1 and R2 is >= 16, preferably >= 20.

Description

The present invention relates to skincare and / or makeup compositions of the skin. More particularly, the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions, in the form of water-in-oil emulsions, comprising an emulsifying silicone elastomer and a non-volatile ester.

The makeup compositions, in particular the foundations, are in the form of various textures ranging from fluid to solid. Fluid textures are attractive to the consumer because they are easy to apply and provide a thin film sensation that is forgotten after the application. For such compositions, it is often sought significant coverage to hide skin defects and homogenize the complexion. Such coverage is often achieved by using a high proportion of pigments which leads to a very dull and unnatural result. Similarly, when one seeks to have a significant sensation of freshness on application, a high proportion of water and volatile solvent such as alcohol is used. If this effect is combined with a high level of pigment, it usually results in a product having a very short drying time which prevents the product from working sufficiently and provides a feeling of brake on the skin. It is therefore interesting to be able to develop makeup compositions combining good fluidity, good application properties, good coverage and a non-matte appearance. There is therefore a need for compositions in the form of water-in-oil emulsions (W / O) which are stable and which have good cosmetic application properties. The object of the present invention is to provide water-in-oil emulsions for use in skincare and / or make-up compositions. The object of the present invention is to provide care and / or make-up compositions for the skin, in the form of water-in-oil emulsions which are stable over time and have satisfactory coverage.

The present invention aims to provide care compositions and / or makeup of the skin with a good compromise between the feeling of freshness, fluidity, coverage and non-matte and bright appearance.

Thus, the present invention relates to a composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium containing: at least one non-volatile ester of formula (I): RiCOOR 2, in which: R1 represents a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, R2 represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, the sum of the number of carbon atoms of R1 and R2 being greater than or equal to 16, and at least one of the R1 and R2 comprising at least 10 carbon atoms; and at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer; said composition being in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, said aqueous phase representing at least 45% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

The compositions according to the invention are cosmetic compositions intended for make-up and / or care of the skin. A cosmetic makeup composition of the invention may be in the form of a liquid or fluid foundation, a hot-melt foundation product, a body make-up product, a concealer or an eye shadow, a make-up base. According to the present invention, the aforementioned compositions may be in the form of a foundation, and in particular in the form of a fluid foundation.

The invention particularly relates to a water-in-oil foundation containing an emulsifying silicone elastomer, a high proportion of aqueous phase and a non-volatile ester. Such a composition has a fluid texture, a sensation of freshness significant to the application, a good coverage and a non-matt and luminous effect. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method of makeup and / or skincare comprising: a step of applying to the skin at least one layer of a composition according to the invention. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method comprising applying to the skin a composition as defined above. The present invention also relates to a process for making up the skin in which a composition as defined above is applied.

Non-volatile ester The compositions according to the present invention comprise a non-volatile ester of formula (I) as defined above or a mixture thereof. These esters are also referred to as synthetic esters or non-volatile hydrocarbon ester oils and comprise at least 17 carbon atoms. They are also characterized in that their molar mass is less than 650 g.mo1-1. In formula (I) defined above, according to one embodiment, R1 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid having from 4 to 40 carbon atoms.

R1 may represent a saturated alkyl chain, linear or branched, comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms. R1 may also represent an alkyl chain comprising one or more unsaturations, comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms. Similarly, R2 can represent a saturated alkyl chain, linear or branched, comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, but also an alkyl chain comprising one or more unsaturations, comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms. According to one embodiment, in formula (I) defined above, the sum of the number of carbon atoms of R1 and R2 is greater than or equal to 20.

According to one embodiment, in formula (I), at least one of the chains R1 and R2 is a branched chain. According to one embodiment, in formula (I), R2 is a branched chain. A particular family of non-volatile esters according to the invention consists of compounds of formula (I), in which R2 is a linear or branched alkyl chain comprising from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.

According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise an ester chosen from the group consisting of laurates, myristates, palmitates, stearates, isostearates and alcohol erucates. The present invention also relates to compositions as defined above, in which the ester is selected from the group consisting of cetostearyl octanoate (Purcellin oil), C12 to C15 alcohol benzoate, palmitate 2-ethylhexyl, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, palmitate isopropyl, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate and 2-octyldodecyl myristate. In particular, the present invention relates to compositions as defined above, wherein the ester is octyldodecyl neopentanoate. Octyldodecyl neopentanoate is an ester of neopentanoic acid Cs, and isoarachidyl alcohol 020. This ester is an excellent compatibilizing agent of the silicone compounds with each other, and / or silicone compounds with hydrocarbon compounds. In addition, this ester has good thermal and chemical stability. Finally, octyldodecyl neopentanoate has dispersant properties vis-à-vis remarkable pulverulent compounds and allows to obtain a homogeneous dispersion of the pigments in the composition and therefore a good coverage. According to one embodiment, in the compositions of the invention, the amount of ester is from 0.1% to 10%, preferably from 0.5% to 5%, and preferably from 1% to 5%, and more preferably from 1% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. The non-volatile ester of formula (I) makes it possible to obtain a very good dispersion of the pigments, facilitates the application of the compositions according to the invention and improves the luminous finish of said compositions after application and drying. These properties are particularly interesting when the composition is a foundation. Emulsifying Silicone Elastomer The compositions according to the invention also comprise an emulsifying silicone elastomer or a mixture of several of these elastomers.

The emulsifying silicone elastomer makes it possible to obtain a fluid emulsion with good stability. It also provides a very soft feel after application. It also improves the application properties of the composition according to the invention, in particular when it comes to a foundation. According to one embodiment, in the compositions according to the invention, the amount of emulsifying silicone elastomer is from 0.5% to 10%, preferably from 1% to 5%, and preferably from 3% to 5% by weight. weight of raw material relative to the total weight of said composition. According to one embodiment, in the compositions according to the invention, the amount of emulsifying silicone elastomer is from 0.1% to 4%, preferably from 0.2% to 2%, and preferably of 0.5% 1.5% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of said composition. In the context of the present invention, the term "emulsifying silicone elastomer" refers to a silicone elastomer comprising at least one hydrophilic chain. The emulsifying silicone elastomer may be chosen from polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers, polyglycerolated silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment, the silicone elastomer emulsifying compositions of the invention is a polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer. Polyoxyalkylenated Silicone Elastomers The polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane obtainable by addition-crosslinking reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and a polyoxyalkylene having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups. Preferably, the polyoxyalkylenated crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A1) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms each bonded to a silicon, and (B1) of polyoxyalkylene having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence (C1) of platinum catalyst, as for example described in patents US 5,236,986 and US 5,412,004. In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of polyoxyalkylene (especially polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene) with terminations dimethylvinylsiloxy and trimethylsiloxy terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst.

The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of the compound (A1) can be alkyl groups having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group. The compound (A1) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers, cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers, and trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers.

The compound (C1) is the catalyst of the crosslinking reaction, and is chosen in particular from chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum on support.

Advantageously, the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers can be formed from divinyl compounds, in particular polyoxyalkylenes having at least two vinyl groups, reacting with Si-H bonds of a polysiloxane. The polyoxyalkylene silicone elastomer according to the invention is preferably mixed with at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the polyoxyalkylene elastomer may be in the form of non-spherical particles. Polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are described in particular in patents US 5,236,986, US 5,412,004, US 5,837,793 and US 5,811,487.

As the polyoxyalkylene silicone elastomer, those sold under the names "KSG-21", "KSG-20", "KSG-30", "KSG-31", KSG-32 "," KSG-33 "," can be used. KSG-210 "," KSG-310 "," KSG-320 "," KSG-330 "," KSG-340 "," X-226146 "by the company Shin Etsu, or" DC9010 "," DC9011 "by the Dow Corning company.

According to a preferred embodiment, the polyoxyalkylene silicone elastomer marketed under the name KSG-210 by the company Shin Etsu will be used.

The emulsifying silicone elastomer may also be chosen from polyglycerolated silicone elastomers. Polyglycerolated silicone elastomers The polyglycerolated silicone elastomer is an elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane obtainable by addition-crosslinking reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and polyglycerolated compounds having ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence of platinum catalyst.

Preferably, the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of glycerolated compounds having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups. , especially in the presence (C) of platinum catalyst.

In particular, the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated polyglycerol compound and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst. The compound (A) is the basic reagent for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer and the crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of the compound (A) with the compound (B) in the presence of the catalyst (C). The compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least 2 hydrogen atoms bonded to distinct silicon atoms in each molecule. The compound (A) may have any molecular structure, in particular a linear chain or branched chain structure or a cyclic structure.

The compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular to be well miscible with the compound (B). The organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of the compound (A) can be alkyl groups having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, or a mercapto group. Preferably, said organic group is selected from methyl, phenyl and lauryl groups.

The compound (A) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers, cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers and trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane-laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers. The compound (B) may be a polyglycerolated compound corresponding to the following formula (B '): (B') in which m is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, n is an integer ranging from 2 to 200, preferably ranging from 2 to 100, preferably from 2 to 50, preferably from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10, and preferably from 2 to 5, and in particular equal to 3; Gly denotes: -CH2-CH (OH) -CH2-O- or -CH2-CH (CH2OH) -O- Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (B) and the number of atoms of hydrogen bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of the compound (A) is at least 4. It is advantageous that the compound (A) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms related to silicon atoms in the compound (A) and the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in the compound (B) is in the range of 1/1 to 20/1 The compound (C) is the catalyst of the crosslinking reaction, and is chosen in particular from chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum on support. The catalyst (C) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A). and B). The polyglycerolated silicone elastomer according to the invention is generally mixed with at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil to form a gel. In these gels, the polyglycerolated elastomer is often in the form of non-spherical particles. Such elastomers are in particular described in international application WO2004 / 024798.35. As polyglycerolated silicone elastomers, those sold under the names "KSG-710", "KSG-810", "KSG-820", "KSG-830" can be used. , "KSG-840" by the company Shin Etsu.

Physiologically acceptable medium In addition to the compounds indicated above, namely the ester and the emulsifying silicone elastomer, a composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium. By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium that is particularly suitable for applying a composition of the invention to the skin or the lips. The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged.

The compositions of the invention are in the form of an W / O emulsion containing a dispersed aqueous phase and a continuous oily phase. Aqueous phase The aqueous phase of the compositions of the invention comprises water.

According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase of the compositions of the invention represents at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise at least 40% by weight of water, in particular at least 45% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said composition. A water that is suitable for the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water. The aqueous phase can also comprise organic solvents that are miscible with water (at room temperature - 25 ° C.), for example monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; the polyols having in particular 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol hexylene glycol, caprylylglycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as the (C 1 -C 4) alkyl ether of mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol, the (C 1 -C 4) alkyl ethers of mono-, di- or triethylene glycol , and their mixtures. According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase of the compositions of the invention comprises a polyol or a mixture of polyols and / or a glycol ether or a mixture of glycol ethers. In particular, the aqueous phase of the compositions of the invention may comprise glycerol, propylene glycol, caprylylglycol, phenoxyethanol, or a mixture thereof. The aqueous phase may further comprise stabilizing agents, for example sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride and magnesium sulfate. In particular, the aqueous phase of the compositions of the invention may comprise magnesium sulphate. The aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound compatible with an aqueous phase such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants and mixtures thereof.

Fatty phase A cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one liquid fatty phase. In particular, a composition of the invention may comprise at least one liquid fatty phase, especially at least one oil as mentioned below. The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure. These oils can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. According to one embodiment, the fatty phase of the compositions of the invention comprises at least one volatile oil and / or at least one non-volatile oil, other than the ester of formula (I) mentioned above. Volatile oils According to one embodiment, the fatty phase of the compositions of the invention comprises at least one volatile oil. The fatty phase of the compositions of the invention may comprise a mixture of several volatile oils. By "volatile oil" is meant any non-aqueous medium that can evaporate from the skin or lips in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg / cm 2 / min, inclusive.

To measure this evaporation rate is introduced into a crystallizer, with a diameter of 7 cm, placed on a scale located in a large enclosure of about 0.3 m3 temperature-controlled, at a temperature of 25 ° C., and in hygrometry at a relative humidity of 50%, 15 g of oil or oil mixture to be tested. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, providing ventilation by a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 revolutions per minute) arranged in a vertical position above the crystallizer containing said oil or said mixture, the blades being directed to the crystallizer and at a distance of 20cm from the bottom of the crystallizer. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of evaporated oil per unit area (cm2) and per unit of time (minute). The volatile oils may be hydrocarbon, silicone or fluorinated. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom. The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals. The volatile oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C8-C16 alkanes (also known as isoparaffins or isoalkanes), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4 , 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names ISOPARSe or PERMETHYLS®. As hydrocarbon-based volatile oils, mention may also be made of linear C9-C17 alkanes, such as dodecane (C12) and tetradecane (C14), sold respectively under the references PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97 (Sasol) and as the alkanes obtained according to the process described in the international application W02007 / 068371 A1, such as the mixture of undecane (C11) and tridecane (C13) marketed under the reference of CETIOL® UT (Cognis).

Of the volatile hydrocarbon oils, isododecane and the mixture of undecane (C11) and tridecane (C13) are preferred.

According to one embodiment, the volatile oil is isododecane. Volatile silicones can also be used as volatile oils, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those having a viscosity of less than or equal to 8 centistokes (cst) (8 × 10 -6 m 2 / s). ), and having, in particular, from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxyl groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made, in particular, of dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cst, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment, the volatile oil is a dimethicone, in particular of viscosity 2 cst or 5 cst.

More particularly, as silicone volatile oil, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicone oils having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As preferred examples, mention may be made of decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane. Among the volatile silicone oils, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane is preferred. As the volatile fluorinated oil, there may be mentioned for example nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.

Non-volatile oils According to one embodiment, the fatty phase of the compositions of the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil, other than the ester of formula (I) mentioned above. The fatty phase of the compositions of the invention may comprise a mixture of several non-volatile oils. "Non-volatile oil" means an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg / cm 2 / min.

The non-volatile oils may, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated oils and / or non-volatile silicone oils.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include: - hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; - hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, or isostearate of physostearyl and lauroyl glutamate / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203), triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular, whose fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and especially C15 to C36, these oils may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils may, in particular, be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, bancoulier, passionflower oil, shea butter, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach almond oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, oil of baobab, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp oil , rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, oil macadamia, corn oil, prairie pearl oil ('meadowfoam'), St. John's wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, l walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwifruit seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio oil, pumpkin oil, pumpkin oil, rose hip oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, lemon castor oil, and watermelon seed oil, and mixtures thereof, or else triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the names MIGLYOL 810®, 812® and 818® by DYNAMIT NOBEL, - linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam squalane; synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; the synthetic esters, other than those defined above of formula (I), such as the oils of formula R ', COOR'2, in which R'1 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 at 40 carbon atoms, and R'2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, a branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that the sum of the number of carbon atoms of the R'l and R'2 chains is greater or equals 10. The esters may be, in particular, chosen from alcohol and fatty acid esters, for example: hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate or diisopropyl adipate ; esters of neopentanoic acid, such as isodecyl neopentanoate; or esters of isononanoic acid, such as isononyl isononanoate or octyl isononanoate; esters of polyols and esters of pentaerythritol, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate; esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7®, sold by the company Nippon FINE CHEMICAL and described in application US 2004-175338, - copolymers of diol dimer and diacid dimer and their esters, such as dimeric dilinoleyl diol / dimeric dilinoleic copolymers and their esters, such as for example Plandool-G, copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA, or dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer, - branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 atoms of carbon, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol, - higher fatty acids C12-022 urs, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, - di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains may be the same or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate marketed under the name CETIOL CC®, by COGNIS, - oils of high molar mass having, in particular, a molar mass ranging from about 400 to about 10,000 g / mol, in particular from about 650 to about 10,000 g / mol, in particular from about 750 to about 7,500 g / mol, and more particularly from about 1,000 to about 5,000 g / mol. As oil of high molar mass that can be used in the present invention, there may be mentioned oils chosen from: - lipophilic polymers, - linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, - hydroxylated esters aromatic esters, esters of branched fatty alcohols or of C24-C285 fatty acids, silicone oils, oils of vegetable origin, and mixtures thereof; fluorinated oils that may be partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers or fluorinated silicones, as described in document EP-A-847,752; silicone oils, such as non-volatile, linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof.

Among the linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, paraffins oils or vaseline oil are preferably used. Among the hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, mention may preferably be made of vegetable oils, such as sweet almond oil, jojoba oil or macadamia oil.

Synthetic oils, such as synthetic esters, include isodecyl neopentanoate or isononyl isononanoate, and among the synthetic ethers, dicapryl ether is preferably used. Of the non-volatile silicone oils, polydimethylsiloxanes, phenyltrimethicone or alkyldimethicones, such as cetyl dimethicone, are preferably used. According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise, as non-volatile oil, isodecyl neopentanoate. Charges The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one filler, of organic or inorganic nature, making it possible, in particular, to impart to them additional properties of mattness, coverage, strength and / or improved stability. According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise at least one mineral filler for increasing the brightness of said compositions after application. This property is particularly interesting for foundations. By "charge" is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, they make it possible to impart body or stiffness to the composition and / or softness, and uniformity to makeup. The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber or any other intermediate form between these defined forms. The fillers according to the invention may or may not be superficially coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance which promotes dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the process. composition. Examples of mineral fillers that may be mentioned include talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass microcapsules or ceramic, composites of silica and titanium dioxide, such as the TSG series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass. Examples of organic fillers that may be mentioned are polyamide powders (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), polyethylene, polymethylmethacrylate, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) powders, copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrap from Dow Corning), lauroyl lysine, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel (Nobel Industry), hexamethylene diisocyanate / Trimethylol hexyllactone copolymer powder (Toshiki Plastic Powder), resin microbeads silicone (Toshiba Tospearl, for example) synthetic or natural micronized waxes, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, sodium stearate; zinc, magnesium or lithium, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), powder cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with silicone resin, especially silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in US Pat. No. 5,538,793, polyurethane powders, in particular cross-linked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyllactone. In particular, it may be a hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone polymer. Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example, under the name PLASTIC POWDER D-400® or PLASTIC POWDER D-800® from TOSHIKI, and mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise a mineral filler selected from the group consisting of mica (natural or synthetic), bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride.

According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise boron nitride. This charge is particularly advantageous in that it increases the coverage and gives a luminous effect without shine. The boron nitride content is preferably from 1% to 15%, and preferably from 2% to 10%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise a filler as defined above, or a mixture of fillers.

For example, they may comprise a mineral filler selected from the group consisting of mica (natural or synthetic), bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride, and one or more additional inorganic or organic fillers as defined above. For example, they may comprise boron nitride, and one or more additional inorganic or organic fillers as defined above. When the compositions of the invention comprise one or more additional inorganic or organic fillers, the amount of these additional fillers is from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight, by weight. relative to the total weight of said composition.

Dyestuffs The compositions of the invention may also comprise a dyestuff or a mixture of dyestuffs. According to one embodiment, the content of dyestuffs is from 3% to 30%, preferably from 5% to 20%, and still more preferably from 8% to 16%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

The dyestuff (or coloring agent) present in the compositions of the invention is chosen for example from the group consisting of pigments, dyes, pearlescent agents and reflective particles (or flakes). A cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention may advantageously incorporate at least one dyestuff chosen from organic or inorganic dyestuffs, in particular of the type of pigment or nacre conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, fat-soluble or water-soluble dyes, specific optical effect and their mixtures.

According to one embodiment, the dyestuff is chosen from pigments. The term "pigments" is intended to mean white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting film. According to one embodiment, the pigment content is from 3% to 30%, preferably from 5% to 20%, and still more preferably from 8% to 16%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. As inorganic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and Chromium hydrate. Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least titanium oxides and iron oxides. It may also be a pigment having a structure which may for example be sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica. Such a pigment is marketed for example under the reference COVERLEAF NS or JS by CHEMICALS AND CATALYSTS and has a contrast ratio of about 30. The coloring material may also comprise a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, of the type silica microspheres containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is that marketed by MIYOSHI under the reference PC BALL PC-LL-100P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

According to one embodiment, the coloring material is chosen from nacres.

By "nacres", it is necessary to understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. The nacres may be present in a proportion of 3% to 30%, preferably 5% to 20%, and still more preferably 8% to 16%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as bismuth oxychloride, iron oxide-coated titanium mica, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with magnesium oxide. chromium, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride. Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of mother-of-pearl TIMICA, FLAMENCO and DUOCHROME (based on mica) marketed by ENGELHARD, TIMIRON pearls marketed by MERCK, mother-of-pearl containing PRESTIGE mica marketed by the company. ECKART and nacres based on SUNSHINE synthetic mica sold by the company SUN CHEMICAL. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection. As an illustration of the pearlescent agents that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made, in particular, of gold-colored pearlescent agents, sold in particular by ENGELHARD, under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres, in particular, sold by the company Merck under the names Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents, in particular, marketed by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen, in particular, marketed by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the red-colored pearlescent agents, in particular, marketed by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents, in particular, marketed by Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); nacres of red hue with gold glare, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); black nacres with gold reflection, sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue pearls, in particular, sold by MERCK under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), white nacres with silvery reflection, in particular, sold by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by MERCK under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures. According to one embodiment, the coloring material is chosen from dyes. By "dyes", it is necessary to include generally organic compounds that are soluble in fatty substances such as oils or in a hydroalcoholic phase.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may therefore also comprise water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes. Liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, (3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC orange 5 and quinoline yellow The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice and caramel The compositions according to the invention may also contain at least one material with specific optical effect, also called flakes or reflective particles.

This effect is different from a simple conventional hue effect, i.e. unified and stabilized as produced by conventional dyestuffs, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of effect of color variability with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.

For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic sheen, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and especially interferential fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect according to the invention.

The particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from: particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, particles comprising an organic or inorganic substrate, monomaterial or multimaterial, at least partially covered by at least one metal-reflecting layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and - mixtures of said particles. Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te. Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (e.g., bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals. The term "metal derivatives" denotes compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulphides. As an illustration of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those sold under the names STARBRITE 1200 EAC® by SIBERLINE and METALURE® by ECKART. Mention may also be made of copper metal powders or mixtures of alloys, such as the references 2844 sold by the company Radium Bronze, metallic pigments, such as aluminum or bronze, such as those sold under the trade names ROTOSAFE 700 ECKART company, the silica-coated aluminum particles marketed under the name VISIONAIRE BRIGHT SILVER by the company ECKART and the metal alloy particles, such as bronze powders (alloy copper and zinc) coated with silica marketed under the name of Visionaire Bright Natural Gold from Eckart. It may also be particles comprising a glass substrate such as those sold by the company NIPPON SHEET GLASS under the names MICROGLASS METASHINE. The goniochromatic coloring agent may be selected from, for example, interfering multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents.

Examples of symmetrical interferential multilayer structures that can be used in compositions produced according to the invention are, for example, the following structures: Al / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Al, pigments having this structure being marketed by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS; Cr / MgF 2 / Al / MgF 2 / Cr, pigments having this structure being marketed under the name CHROMAFLAIR by the company FLEX; MoS2 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3, and Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3, pigments having these structures being sold under the name SICOPEARL by the company BAS F; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / mica-oxide / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2; SnO / TiO 2 / SiO 2 / TiO 2 / SnO; Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3; SnO / mica / TiO 2 / SiO 2 / TiO 2 / mica / SnO, pigments having these structures being sold under the name XIRONA by the company Merck (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments may be the pigments of silica / titania / tin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Magic by the company Merck, the silica / brown iron oxide structural pigments marketed under the name XIRONA. INDIAN SUMMER by the company MERCK and the silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide structural pigments marketed under the name XIRONA CARRIBEAN BLUE by the company MERCK. Mention may also be made of the INFINITE COLORS pigments from SHISEIDO. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 structure, gold-green to gray-red is passed for SiO 2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for layers of SiO2 from 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO2 layers from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO2 layers from 430 to 440 nm.

Mention may be made, by way of example of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure, those marketed by the company 3M under the name COLOR GLITTER. As liquid crystal goniochromatic particles, it is possible to use, for example, those sold by CHENIX, as well as those sold under the name HELICONE® HC by WACKER. According to one embodiment, the dyestuffs used in the compositions of the invention may be surface-treated with silicones, acrylate silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives, fatty acid derivatives, or any other favoring substance. dispersion and compatibility of the coloring matter in the composition.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise surface-treated iron oxide or surface-treated titanium oxide, or a mixture thereof. For example, the NAI pigments marketed by Miyoshi can be cited.

According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a total dyestuffs and filler content of from 1% to 50%, preferably from 5% to 40%, and preferably from 10% to 30% by weight. relative to the total weight of said composition.

Surfactants A composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional surfactant (s) suitable for W / O emulsions, in particular chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic surfactants, used alone or in mixture.

The surfactants are generally present in the composition, in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. By way of example, the silicone surfactant (s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to another particular embodiment, the non-silicone surfactant (s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the W / O emulsions, use may especially be made of hydrocarbon surfactants, in particular polyglycerolated or silicone surfactants. The compositions of the invention may comprise at least one silicone surfactant and / or at least one polyglycerolated surfactant.

Mention may be made, for example, as hydrocarbon surfactants, polyol polyesters such as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate sold under the reference ARLACEL P 135 by Uniqema, polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate sold under the reference DEHYMULS PGPH by Cognis.

Mention may be made, for example, as silicone surfactants, of alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by the company Dow Corning and cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name ABIL EM 90 by the company Goldschmidt, or the mixture polyglyceryl-4 isostearate / cetyl dimethicone copolyol / hexyllaurate sold under the name ABIL WE 09 by the company Goldschmidt. According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one silicone surfactant, and more particularly chosen from dimethicone copolyols.

The presence of a dimethicone copolyol especially promotes the stabilization of the emulsion according to the invention. A dimethicone copolyol that may be used according to the invention is an oxypropylene and / or oxyethylenated polydimethyl methyl siloxane.

As dimethicone copolyol, those having the following formula (II) may be used: R 1 SiO - [SiO SiO 3 - 3 Si R 3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 I 3 II AIBI in which: R 1, R2, R3, independently of each other, represent a C1-C6 alkyl radical or a radical - (CH2) x- (OCH2CH2) y- (OCH2CH2CH2), - OR4, at least one radical R1, R2 or R3 n ' not being an alkyl radical; R4 being a hydrogen, a C1-C3 alkyl radical or a C2-04 acyl radical; A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200; - B is an integer from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not equal to zero at the same time; x is an integer from 1 to 6; y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30; and - z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, in the compound of formula (II), R1 = R3 = methyl radical, x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6 and y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30. R 4 is in particular hydrogen. Examples of compounds of formula (II) are the compounds of formula (III): (CH 3) 3 SiO - [(CH 3) 2 SiO] A - (CH 3 SiO) B - Si (CH 3) 3 (CH 2) 2 - (OCH 2 CH 2) y-OH wherein A is an integer from 20 to 105, B is an integer of 2 at 10 and y is an integer from 10 to 20.

Mention may also be made, by way of example of silicone compounds of formula (II), of the compounds of formula (IV): HO- (OCH 2 CH 2) y- (CH 2) 3 - [(CH 3) 2 SiO] A - (CH 2) 3 - (OCH2CH2) y-OH (IV) wherein A 'and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.

As dimethicone copolyols those sold under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695, Q4-3667 can be used by Dow Corning; KF-6013, KF-6015, KF-6016, KF-6017, KF-6028 by Shin-Etsu. Compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 are compounds of formula (III) wherein A is respectively 22, B is 2 and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10 and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3 and y is 12. According to one particular embodiment, the silicone surfactant may be PEG-polydimethylsiloxyethyldimethicone, in particular marketed by Shin-Etsu under the reference KF-6028, PEG-10 dimethicone in particular. marketed by Shin-Etsu under the reference KF-6017, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise PEG-10 dimethicone, especially sold by ShinEtsu under the reference KF-6017, as silicone surfactant.

The dimethicone copolyol may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion, and preferably ranging from 1.0% to 3%. in weight. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one silicone surfactant and at least one hydrocarbon surfactant.

Preferably, said silicone surfactant is chosen from dimethicone copolyols and said hydrocarbon surfactant is chosen from alkyl esters of polyols.

As alkylated esters of polyol, there may be mentioned in particular esters of (poly) glycerol and / or sorbitan, in particular polyglyceryl diisostearate, and for example polyglyceryl-3-diisostearate sold under the name LAMEFORM TGI by the company Cognis, polyglycerol-4 isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by ICI, sorbitan isostearate; and glycerol, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise polyglycerol diisotearate as a polyglycerolated surfactant. According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise PEG-10 dimethicone sold especially by Shin-Etsu under the reference KF-6017, as silicone surfactant, and polyglycerol diisotearate as a polyglycerolated surfactant. . Film-forming agents The composition of the invention may further comprise at least one film-forming agent in the aqueous phase and / or in the fatty phase in order to reinforce the strength of the composition. Such film-forming agents are in particular described in application EP 2 373 284. The compositions according to the invention may comprise a film-forming agent soluble in the fatty phase.

Mention may in particular be made of vinyl polymers comprising at least one unit derived from a carbosiloxane dendrimer. The vinyl polymer may in particular have a skeleton and at least one side chain, which comprises a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure. The term "carbosiloxane dendrimer structure" in the context of the present invention represents a molecular structure having branched groups having high molecular weights, said structure having a high regularity in the radial direction from the backbone bond. Such carbosiloxane dendrimer structures are described in the form of a highly branched siloxane-silylalkylene copolymer in Japanese Patent Application Laid-open Kokai 9-171,154. Among vinyl polymers grafted with at least one unit derived from carbosiloxane dendrimer which may be particularly suitable for the present invention, mention may be made especially of the polymers sold under the names TIB 4-100, TIB 4-101, TIB 4-120, TIB 4-130, TIB 4-200, FA 4002 ID (TIB 4-202), TIB 4-220, FA 4001 CM (TIB 4-230) by Dow Corning. According to one embodiment, said vinyl polymer may be one of the polymers described in the examples of application EP 0 963 751 or for example the product TIB-4-200 sold by Dow Corning. As a film-forming agent, mention may also be made of silicone resins, generally soluble or swellable in silicone oils, which are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers. As examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those sold by Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK, or by Shinetsu under the references KR-220L.

As examples of commercially available polypropylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those sold under the reference DC670 by Dow Corning. As siloxysilicate resins, mention may be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins such as those sold under the reference SR1000 by the company General Electric or under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker. Mention may also be made of timethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name KF-7312J by the company Shin-Etsu, "DC 749", "DC 593" by the company Dow Corning.

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise a film-forming agent that is soluble in the aqueous phase. In this case it will preferably be a polymer in aqueous dispersion (latex) or water-soluble. Mention may be made, for example, of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of water-soluble film-forming polymers that may be mentioned include: proteins of plant or animal origin; cellulose polymers as well as quaternized derivatives of cellulose; acrylic polymers or copolymers; vinyl polymers; anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers; gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum; alginates and carrageenans; glycosaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; shellac resin, sandaraque gum, dammars, elemis, copals; deoxyribonucleic acid; mucopolysaccharides; and their mixtures.

The film-forming polymer may also be present in the composition in the form of particles in dispersion in an aqueous phase, generally known under the name of latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

Additives A composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field concerned, for example selected from gums, resins, dispersing agents, semi-crystalline polymers, lipophilic structuring agents, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, antiseptic agents, UV filters, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizing agents, emollients or collagen protectors, and mixtures thereof. It falls within the routine operations of those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions according to the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties and stability properties of these they are not affected. EXAMPLES The examples below relate to compositions in the form of a foundation. The first column corresponds to a composition according to the invention and the other two columns to comparative examples. Ex-phase Ex. Ex. camp. 1 2 Al 25% emulsifying silicone elastomer 4.00 4.00 0.00 by weight of active ingredient (1) Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (2) 0.00 0.00 1.00 Dimethicone 6cst 6,00 6,00 9,00 A2 Dimethicone 2cst 6,00 6,00 6,00 Isododecane 5,00 5,00 5,00 Isodecyl neopentanoate 4,00 6,00 6,00 Octyldodecyl neopentanoate 2, 0.00 0.00 0.00 Polyglycerol di-isostearate 1.00 1.00 1.00 PEG-1 0 Dimethicone (3) 1.50 1.50 1.50 Surface-treated iron oxide (4) 1.20 1.20 1.20 Titanium oxide surface-treated (4) 12.80 12.80 12.80 A3 Boron nitride 4.00 4.00 4.00 B Water 45.00 45.00 45.00 Sulfate Magnesium 0.50 0.50 0.50 Phenoxyethanol 0.70 0.70 0.70 Caprylyl Glycol 0.30 0.30 0.30 Propylene Glycol 2.00 2.00 2.00 Glycerin 4.00 4.00 4 , 00 (1) KSG 210 from Shinetsu (2) Abil EM90 from Evonik Goldschmidt (3) KF6017 from Shinetsu (4) NAI Pigments from Miyoshi Phase A1 is obtained by diluting the emulsifying silicone elastomer in dimethicone. The pigments are then milled in the oils of phase A2 and added to phase Al. The ingredients of aqueous phase B are mixed and then phase B is poured onto phase A to form the emulsion.

The foundation of the invention is fluid, it is very easily applied to the skin with a very fresh and very watery effect, the coverage is important and the makeup result is non-matte and bright. Comparative foundation 1 is less covering and less luminous than the foundation of the invention. Comparative foundation 2 is not stable over time (release of oil).

Claims (15)

REVENDICATIONS1. A composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium containing: at least one nonvolatile ester of formula (I): RiCOOR2, wherein: R1 represents a hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, R2 represents a linear or branched hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, the sum of the number of carbon atoms of R1 and R2 being greater than or equal to 16, and at least one of the R1 and R2 comprising at least 10 carbon atoms; and at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer; said composition being in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, said aqueous phase representing at least 45% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. 2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein, in formula (I), the sum of the number of carbon atoms of R1 and R2 is greater than or equal to 20. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein in the formula (I), R2 is a linear or branched alkyl chain comprising from 10 to 20 carbon atoms. 4. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the ester is selected from the group consisting of laurates, myristates, palmitates, stearates, isostearates and alcohol erucates. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the ester is selected from the group consisting of cetostearyl octanoate (Purcellin oil), C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, palmitate palmitate and the like. 2-ethylhexyl, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, isopropyl myristate, palmitate isopropyl, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate and 2-octyldodecyl myristate. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the ester is octyldodecyl neopentanoate. 7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the amount of ester is from 0.1% to 10%, preferably from 0.5% to 5%, and preferably from 1% to 5% , by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the emulsifying silicone elastomer is selected from the group consisting of polyoxyalkylene silicone elastomers, polyglycerolated silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof. 9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the amount of emulsifying silicone elastomer is from 0.5% to 10%, preferably from 1% to 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. 10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the aqueous phase is at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. 11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, comprising a filler, in particular a mineral filler, and preferably selected from the group consisting of mica (natural or synthetic), bismuth oxychloride and boron nitride. . 12. The composition of claim 11, wherein the filler is boron nitride in an amount of preferably 1% to 15%, and preferably 2% to 10%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. 35 13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, comprising a dyestuff. 30 14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, in the form of a fluid foundation. 15. Non-therapeutic method of makeup and / or care of the skin comprising a step of applying to the skin at least one layer of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14.