WO2007132971A1

WO2007132971A1 - Water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition

Info

Publication number: WO2007132971A1
Application number: PCT/KR2006/005081
Authority: WO
Inventors: Eun Jeong Kim; Wha Young Lee; Ji Min Cheon
Original assignee: Amorepacific Corporation
Priority date: 2006-05-16
Filing date: 2006-11-29
Publication date: 2007-11-22
Also published as: KR20070111001A; KR100802322B1

Abstract

Disclosed herein is a water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition. More specifically, the present invention discloses a water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition comprising (a) high-viscosity ester oil, (b) a high-viscosity polymer, (c) a self-emulsified silicone gel and (d) distilled water. Since the composition contains a 30% or more of water phase and a self-emulsified silicone gel instead of a general emulsifier, it exhibits superior appearance stability, fresh feeling, excellent gloss and good spreadability.

Description

[DESCRIPTION] [Invention Title]

WATER-IN-OIL TYPE EMULSION LIQUID ROUGE COMPOSITION [Technical Field] The present invention relates to a water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition. More specifically, the present invention relates to a water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition capable of stabilizing a great amount of moisture without using any emulsifier, realizing natural and pleasant make-up finish while exhibiting gloss, feeling of use and stability comparable to general anhydrous liquid rouges despite containment of moisture, and imparting a long lasting coloring to the lips because moisture acting as a volatile solvent allows polymers to be set on the lips after application. [Background Art]

Emulsification is generally utilized in a variety of industrial fields including medicines, foods, cosmetics, etc. Such emulsification is defined as a technology for imparting stability to a thermodynamically unstable mixture consisting of two phases miscible with each other over control of the interfacial tension between the two phases.

Accordingly, emulsification methods and conditions greatly vary depending on the type of two phases and a surfactant constituting an emulsion. As a result, the condition of an obtained emulsion is also varied. In view of securing stability of products, it is considerably important to prepare an emulsion in which emulsion droplets with the size suitable for an intended use of products are uniformly distributed.

Conventional materials for lip cosmetics, in particular, liquid rouge compositions are mostly anhydrous oil dispersion formulations. The anhydrous oil dispersion formulations consist of a solid ingredient, liquid phase oily ingredients, a high- viscosity polymer for providing gloss, a pigment and other additives. The solid ingredient functions to maintain an outer appearance of compositions for lip cosmetics via improvement of hardness and examples thereof include candelilla wax, seresin, carnauba wax, paraffin, wooden wax, hard wax, bees wax, microcrystalline wax and polyethylene. Examples of the liquid phase oily ingredients include squalane, lanolin oil, lanolin derivatives, oils extracted from plants, synthetic ester oil, and silicone oil. Examples of the high-viscosity polymer include: hydrocarbon-based polymers such as polybutene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polybutene, and hydrogenated polyisobutene; ester-based polymers; ether-based polymers; silicone-based polymers; alkyl silicone- based polymers; urethane-based polymers; and urethane silicone-based polymers.

Examples of the pigment include organic, inorganic and pearl pigments. Examples of the other additives include antioxidants, preservatives, flavors, and extracts such as efficacious ingredients.

Preparation of a liquid rouge from the oily ingredients is carried out by melting the ingredients at a high temperature and uniformly dispersing pigments and dyes therein. Glossy liquid rouges generally comprise a great amount of polymers. Such a liquid rouge exhibits good gloss, but has an excessively high viscosity. Accordingly, the lips, to which the liquid rouge is applied, suffer from thick, heavy and tacky feelings. In addition, since the liquid rouge is a liquid phase, the oily ingredients bleed into a space between wrinkles on the outer edges of the lips, thus disadvantageously eliminating sharp line of the lip area to which the liquid rouge was applied and fading coloring.

Water dispersion formulations, oil-in-water type emulsion formulations or water-in-oil type emulsion formulations are generally used in make-up cosmetics to impart fresh and pleasant feelings of use, as compared to general dispersion formulations. Water dispersion formulations or oil-in-water type emulsion formulations impart natural and fresh feelings to the lips, but show seriously poor gloss and short lasting coloring because of a great amount of water, and impart dry feeling to the lips upon evaporation of water. On the other hand, water-in-oil type emulsion formulations impart pleasant and fresh feelings and long lasting coloring to the lips. The water-in-oil type emulsion formulations comprise: a solid phase such as candelilla wax, seresin, carnauba wax, microcrystallme wax and polyethylene; an oily phase consisting of low-viscosity ester and silicone oil, a pigment, a high content of surfactant and dispersant; and a water phase consisting of distilled water, a moisturizer, a thickener, various efficacious ingredients, salts, etc. Such an emulsion formulation is mainly comprised of low- viscosity ingredients, thus showing poor gloss and being very thinly applied. Since the water-in-oil type emulsion formulations generally contain a high content of powder, they tend to make the lips dry. In addition, the water-in-oil type emulsion formulations are apt to give a stimulus to the sensitive lips due to containment of a great amount of surfactant, and cause hazy feeling and foreign body sensation in the lips because of reemulsification with spittle in the mouth or moisture on the lip. Further, the water-in-oil type emulsion formulations suffer great damage to feeling of use as materials for lip cosmetics. The fore-mentioned constituent components of oil dispersant formulations are significantly different from those of general water-in-oil type emulsion formulations, in view of the viscosity of the constituent components and the amount of an emulsifier used. For this reason, the general preparation method of the water-in-oil type emulsion formulations is unsuitable for use in preparation of lip cosmetics. In particular, there is a greater difficulty in preparing water-in-oil type emulsion formulations capable of imparting superior stability, excellent gloss, and fresh feeling to the lips. Accordingly, there is a need for improving the preparation method to suit properties of products.

In an attempt to secure the stability of an emulsion, there has been suggested introduction of an oil-soluble thickener into an emulsion-type composition for a lip cosmetic. Specifically, Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication Nos. Hei 01-168607 and Hei 07-267826 disclose a composition for a lip cosmetic comprising dextrin higher fatty acid ester, polybutene (with an average molecular weight of 500 to 5,000) and multi toll. [Disclosure] [Technical Problem]

As a result of repeated searches to prepare a water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition that can solve disadvantages of general liquid rouges and exhibit superior gloss and fresh feeling, the present inventors have confirmed the fact that when a water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition comprises high-viscosity ester oil, a high- viscosity polymer, distilled water, and a self-emulsified silicone gel having both a lipophilic group and a hydrophilic group instead of an emulsifier to eliminate problems associated with the lips caused by an emulsifier (e.g. reemulsification, excessive adhesion strength, and gloss deterioration), it enables stabilization of an emulsion and exhibits superior gloss, fresh feeling and excellent spreadability. Furthermore, a method for preparing the water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition has been developed by determining reaction conditions such as optimum emulsification temperature, introduction order of the polymer and the self- emulsified silicone gel acting an emulsifier, and emulsification temperature and rate, based on general preparation methods of water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge compositions, and the present invention has been finally completed. Accordingly, it is one object of the present invention to provide a water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition with superior gloss, fresh feeling of use and excellent spreadability. [Technical Solution] In accordance with one aspect of the present invention for achieving the above objects, there is provided a water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition comprising: (a) high-viscosity ester oil; (b) a high-viscosity polymer; (c) a self- emulsified silicone gel; and (d) distilled water.

[BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS] The above and other objects, features and other advantages of the present invention will be more clearly understood from the following detailed description taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, in which:

FIG. 1 shows a preparation process for a water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition according to the present invention; and FIG. 2 is a micrograph showing particles of an emulsion prepared in Example

2 of the present invention. [Best Mode]

The present invention will now be described in greater detail. The present invention is directed to a water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition comprising: (a) a high- viscosity ester oil; (b) a high- viscosity polymer; (c) a self-emulsified silicone gel; and (d) distilled water.

Preferably, the (a) high-viscosity ester oil is ester oil having a viscosity of 4,000 mPa-s/20°C or higher and the (b) high- viscosity polymer is a polymer having a viscosity of 20,000 mPa-s/20°C or higher. Preferably, the content of the (a) high- viscosity ester oil is 1 to 30% by weight, the content of the (b) high- viscosity polymer is 1 to 50% by weight, the content of the (c) self-emulsified silicone gel is 0.5 to 9.0% by weight and the content of the (d) distilled water is 30 to 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the liquid rouge composition. The (a) high-viscosity ester oil used in the present invention is an ester oil having a high refractive index and superior gloss, and functions to impart gloss to the lip and prevent moisture loss. When the (a) component has a low viscosity, it adversely affects the level of gloss. Accordingly, preferred is the use of high- viscosity ester oil having a viscosity of 4,000 mPa-s/20°C or higher. The content of the (a) high- viscosity ester oil is preferably 1 to 30% by weight, more preferably 5 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition. When the content of the (a) high- viscosity ester oil is lower than 1% by weight, the gloss of final products is deteriorated. Meanwhile, when the content of the (a) high- viscosity ester oil exceeds 30% by weight, feeling of use is adversely affected. Specific examples of the (a) high- viscosity ester oil include triisostearin, polyglyceryl triisostearate, diisostearyl malate, polyglyceryl diisostearate and octyldodecylstearoyl stearate.

The (b) high-viscosity polymer used in the present invention contributes to improvement in gloss and lastingness of the composition. Specific examples of the (b) high- viscosity polymer include hydrocarbon-based polymers such as polybutene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polybutene and hydrogenated polyisobutene; ester-based polymers; ether-based polymers; silicone-based polymers; alkyl silicone-based polymers; acryl-based polymers; acrylic silicone-based polymers; urethane-based polymers; and urethane silicone-based polymers. The content of the (b) high- viscosity polymer is preferably 1 to 50% by weight, more preferably 10 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. When the content of the (b) high-viscosity polymer is lower than 1% by weight, the gloss, lastingness and stability of final products are undesired. Meanwhile, when the content of the (b) high-viscosity polymer exceeds 50% by weight, stability and feeling of use are adversely affected. The (c) self-emulsified silicone gel used in the present invention is a silicone- thickening polymer acting as an emulsifier, has amphipathicity, imparts smooth feeling, and contributes to stability and feeling of use. The content of the (c) self-emulsified silicone gel is preferably 0.5 to 9.0% by weight, more preferably 1.5 to 4.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition. When the content of the (c) self-emulsified silicone gel is lower than 0.5% by weight, the stability of an emulsion is adversely affected. Meanwhile, when the content of the (c) self-emulsified silicone gel exceeds 9.0% by weight, gloss and feeling of use are deteriorated, and the viscosity is excessively high, thus making it difficult to uniformly mix the composition upon emulsification. Specific examples of the (c) self-emulsified silicone gel include a dimethicone/PEG 10/15 crosspolymer, a PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer, a PEG-10/lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer, and a PEG-IO dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.

The (d) distilled water used in the present invention acts to impart freshness and pleasantness to the lips. Since the content of distilled water greatly affects the stability and feeling of use, it is preferably 30 to 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Hereinafter, a method for preparing the water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition according to the present invention will be explained in detail based on respective steps. The preparation method comprises the steps of: (1) subjecting an oil phase containing (a) high- viscosity ester oil and (b) a high- viscosity polymer to primary homogenization with stirring;

(2) after color-tuning, adding (c) a self-emulsified silicone gel to the oil phase, followed by secondary homogenization;

(3) heating a water phase containing distilled water to 80°C with stirring; (4) slowly adding the water phase obtained in step (3) to the oil phase obtained in step (2), followed by emulsification;

(5) after adding a flavor to the mixture, completion of the emulsification, followed by immediately initial defoaming;

(6) cooling the emulsion with controlling a speed of a paddle mixer and complete defoaming at 5O⁰C; and

(7) cooling the resulting emulsion to 35°C or below.

The primary homogenization in step (1) is preferably carried out by dissolving the high- viscosity polymer in the high-viscosity ester oil while elevating the reaction temperature to 90 to 95 ^°C with stirring at 3,600 rpm. The secondary homogenization in step (2) is preferably carried out by elevating the reaction temperature to 80 to 85 ^°C with stirring for 5 min or more. When the reaction temperature is lower than 80 ^"C, the components have a high viscosity, thus making it difficult to realize uniform mixing and emulsification, and defoaming is not carried out to a desired level, thus adversely affecting stability. The stirring in step (3) is carried out at 500 to 600 rpm.

The emulsification in step (4) is carried out by preparing a water-in-oil type emulsion via emulsification at 80 ^°C for 5 min with stirring at 2,200 to 2,400 rpm and stabilizing the emulsion via the (c) self-emulsified silicone gel. At this time, when the emulsification time is excessively long, or the emulsification rate is excessively high, the viscosity of the components greatly increases. As a result, a desired defoaming cannot be performed.

A process for preparing the water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition comprising the steps (1) to (7) is schematically shown in FIG. 1.

According to the present invention, by preparation under optimized reaction conditions e.g. time, temperature or stirring rate, the water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition can exhibit superior gloss and fresh feeling of use. [Mode for Invention]

Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in more detail with reference to the following Examples and Comparative Examples. However, these examples are given for the purpose of illustration and are not to be construed as limiting the scope of the invention. EXAMPLES

Water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge compositions of Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 were prepared in accordance with compositions shown in

Table 1 below. Referring to the compositions shown in Table 1, Comparative

Examples contain no or a very small amount of dimethicone/PEG-10, 15 crosspolymer for stabilizing emulsion particles, when compared to those of Examples.

First, oil phase ingredients were dissolved while elevating the reaction temperature to 92 "C with stirring at 3,600 rpm. To the oil phase was added a pigment to subject the oil phase to coloring. If standard products exist, color-tuning is performed. A dimethicone/PEG-10, 15 crosspolymer was added to the oil phase and heated to 85 °C for 5 min with stirring. Separately, water phase ingredients were heated to 85 °C with stirring at 500 rpm. Then, the water phase was slowly added to the oil phase and the mixture was emulsified at 2,200 rpm at 80 "C for 5 min. After adding a flavor to the mixture, the emulsification is completed, followed by immediately initial defoaming. The defoamed emulsion was cooled to 50^°C with controlling a rate of a paddle mixer, followed by complete defoaming at the temperature. The resulting emulsion was cooled to 35 ^°C or below to yield a desired composition.

The micrograph of particles of the emulsion prepared in Example 2 is shown in FIG. 2. The emulsion particles were observed using Nikon Eclipse 80i^® with a magnification of 50x. Image processing of the emulsion particles was carried out using IMT I-Solution v 6.5^®. The size of the particles in Example 2 ranges from 5 to 12 mm. TABLE 1

Experimental Example 1>

To evaluate the stability of liquid rouges prepared in Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3, high- temperature (i.e. 45 "C) stability, cycling test (at 0 to 45 ^°C , 6 cycles each day) and shaking test (at 150 to 200 rpm) were conducted. The results were evaluated with the naked eye and shown in Table 2 below: TABLE 2

As can be confirmed from Table 1, the liquid rouges of Examples 1 to 3 exhibited overall superior stability.

To compare feeling of use between the liquid rouges prepared in Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 to 3, the liquid rouges were applied to 20 women in their twenties to thirties and then evaluated for the following items based on 5 -point scale.

(Evaluation items)

Fresh feeling / gloss / spreadability (overall feeling of use) (Evaluation criterion)

1: very poor, 2: poor, 3: moderate, 4: good, 5: very good TABLE 3

As can be seen from data shown in Table 3, as the content of water is greater (Example 2), or as the content of a thickener acting as an emulsiiϊer is smaller (Examples 1 and 2), the grade for fresh feeling was higher. On the other hand, in Comparative Example 2, fresh feeling was excellent, because emulsion particles were readily broken upon application as emulsification was more unstable. However, gloss and overall feeling of use were poor, and in particular, stability for these items was very poor. In Example 3, as the content of a polymer is higher, the grade for gloss was higher, but the grades for fresh feeling and spreadability were slightly decreased. As the content of water is greater and the content of a polymer is smaller, the grade for spreadability was increased. Accordingly, these results demonstrate that the liquid rouge of Example 2 was evaluated the most excellent. [industrial Applicability]

As apparent from the above description, since the water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition of the present invention contains a 30% or more of water phase and a self-emulsified silicone gel, it exhibits superior stability in an outer appearance and feeling of use, fresh feeling, excellent gloss and good spreadability. In addition, the water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition contains no emulsifier, thus realizing natural and pleasant lip make-up finish.

Although the present invention has been described herein with reference to the foregoing specific embodiments, those skilled in the art will appreciate that various modifications and changes are possible, without departing from the scope and spirit of the invention as disclosed in the accompanying claims.

Claims

[CLAIMS] [Claim 1 ]

A water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition comprising: (a) high-viscosity ester oil; (b) a high- viscosity polymer;

(c) a self-emulsified silicone gel; and

(d) distilled water.

[Claim 2]

The water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a) high-viscosity ester oil is ester oil having a viscosity of 4,000 mPa-s/20^°C or higher, and the (b) high-viscosity polymer is a polymer having a viscosity of 20,000 mPa-s/20 ^°C or higher.

[Claim 3]

The water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition according to claim 1, wherein the content of the (a) high- viscosity ester oil is 1 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition.

[Claim 4]

The water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition according to claim 1 , wherein the content of the (b) high- viscosity polymer is 1 to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition.

[Claim 5]

The water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition according to claim 1 , wherein the content of the (c) self-emulsified silicone gel is 0.5 to 9.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition. [Claim 6]

The water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition according to claim 1 , wherein the content of the (d) distilled water is 30 to 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition. [Claim 7]

The water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition according to claim 1, wherein the (a) ester oil is selected from the group consisting of triisostearin, polyglyceryl triisostearate, diisostearyl malate, polyglyceryl driisostearate and octyldodecylstearoyl stearate. [Claim 8]

The water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition according to claim 1, wherein the (b) high-viscosity polymer is selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon-based polymers including polybutene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polybutene and hydrogenated polyisobutene; ester-based polymers; ether-based polymers; silicone-based polymers; alkyl silicone-based polymers; acryl-based polymers; acrylic silicone-based polymers; urethane-based polymers; and urethane silicone-based polymers. [Claim 9]

The water-in-oil type emulsion liquid rouge composition according to claim 1, wherein the (c) self-emulsified silicone gel is selected from the group consisting of a dimethicone/PEG 10/15 crosspolymer, a PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer, a

PEG-10/lauryl dimethicone crosspolymer, and a PEG-IO dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.