FR3059545A1 - OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION COMPRISING A GEMINE SURFACTANT, A SILICONE SURFACTANT AND A PIGMENT - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, containing at least: a) a continuous aqueous phase; and b) an oily phase dispersed in said aqueous phase; and c) at least one gemini surfactant; and d) at least one silicone surfactant; and e) at least one pigment. The invention also relates to a process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to the keratin materials of a composition such as than defined previously.

Description

059 545

61859 ® FRENCH REPUBLIC

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF INDUSTRIAL PROPERTY © Publication number:

(only to be used for reproduction orders) © National registration number

COURBEVOIE © Int Cl ⁸ : A 61 K8 / 06 (2017.01), A 61 K8 / 45, 8/86, 8/89, 8/19, 8/29, A 61 Q 1/00, 19/00, C 07 C 233/00, 305/04, 31/18, C 07 F 15/02, 7/28

A1 PATENT APPLICATION

(© Date of filing: 02.12.16. (© Priority: (© Applicant (s): L'OREAL Société anonyme— FR. (© Date of public availability of the request: 08.06.18 Bulletin 18/23. @ Inventor (s): COLLETTE ANNICK and VALVERDE ELODIE. (© List of documents cited in the preliminary search report: See the end of this brochure (© References to other related national documents: (® Holder (s): L'OREAL Société anonyme. ©) Extension request (s): (© Agent (s): L'OREAL Société anonyme.

FR 3 059 545 - A1

OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION COMPRISING A GEMINE SURFACTANT, A SILICONE SURFACTANT AND A PIGMENT.

The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin. , containing at least:

a) a continuous aqueous phase; and

b) an oily phase dispersed in said aqueous phase; and

c) at least one twin surfactant; and

d) at least one silicone surfactant; and

e) at least one pigment.

The invention also relates to a process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to keratin materials of a composition such as defined above.

ι

Oil-in-water emulsion comprising a twin surfactant, a silicone surfactant and a pigment

The present invention aims to propose for the field of care and / or make-up of keratin materials, in particular of the skin, a new composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion which is particularly advantageous with regard to its stability and its ease. of application and the sensory feelings which it provides to the user when it is applied to them and in particular to the skin.

Cosmetic makeup compositions, for example foundations, are commonly used to bring an aesthetic color to keratin materials such as the skin, but also to embellish irregular skin by making it possible to hide spots and dyschromias, to reduce the visibility of relief imperfections such as pores and wrinkles. Many formulations have been developed to date. Pigments are generally used in large quantities in order to obtain a uniform and covering makeup.

Most foundations are water-in-oil emulsions. However, these dosage forms tend to lack freshness on application. The foundations which are in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion also called direct emulsion have a satisfactory freshness.

There are two ways to introduce pigments into a direct emulsion. On the one hand, it is possible to disperse pigments that are not coated or hydrophilic treated in the continuous aqueous phase, but the sensory degrades very strongly beyond the quantities necessary to obtain good coverage. The composition becomes rough, difficult to homogenize (streaks, demarcations ...). On the other hand, it is possible to disperse hydrophobic pigments coated in the dispersed oily phase. The sensory is clearly improved due to the good lubricating power of the fatty phase. On the other hand, this type of emulsion is very complicated to stabilize, in particular with high levels of pigments necessary to obtain good coverage.

Patents FR2992201 and FR2992202 have already proposed oil-in-water emulsions pigmented with a gem-surfactant, an AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE polymer and pigments.

In the applications WO2014195265 and WO2016087554, makeup compositions are known in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising a twin surfactant, an associative polyurethane and pigments

There remains the need to find new compositions for caring for and / or making up keratin materials in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion based on pigments which can be used at high contents, stable in particular at high temperatures, exhibiting good makeup properties like coverage, good sensory properties like softness to the touch, freshness.

The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that this objective can be achieved with a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular for coating keratin materials, more particularly make-up and / or care. keratin materials, such as the skin, containing at least:

a) a continuous aqueous phase; and

b) an oily phase dispersed in said aqueous phase; and

c) at least one twin surfactant; and

d) at least one silicone surfactant; and

e) at least one pigment.

This discovery is the basis of the invention.

Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular for coating keratin materials, more particularly make-up and / or care keratin materials, such as the skin, containing at least:

a) a continuous aqueous phase; and

b) an oily phase dispersed in said aqueous phase; and

c) at least one twin surfactant; and

d) at least one silicone surfactant; and

e) at least one pigment.

The invention also relates to a process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to keratin materials of a composition such as defined above.

DEFINITIONS

In the context of the present invention, the term “keratinous material” in particular means the skin (body, face, eye area, eyelids).

By physiologically acceptable, it is understood to be compatible with the skin and / or its appendages, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness), liable to divert the consumer from using this composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “oil-in-water emulsion” also called direct emulsion means any composition consisting of a continuous aqueous phase in which the oily phase is dispersed in the form of droplets so as to observe a macroscopically homogeneous mixture with the naked eye.

GEMINE SURFACTANT

The term “gemini surfactant” (in English gemini surfactant) means any dimer molecule comprising two surfactant units each consisting of a hydrophilic head and a hydrophobic tail and connected to each other, at the hydrophilic heads, by a spacer group. For a detailed description of the different chemical structures and their physicochemical properties, reference may be made to the following publications:

Milton J. Rosen, Gemini Surfactants, Properties of surfactant molecules with two hydrophilic groups and two hydrophobie groups, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, vol. 113, December 1998, pages 49 - 55,

Milton J. Rosen, Recent Developments in Gemini Surfactants, Allured’s Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, July 2001, vol 116, n ° 7, pages 67 - 70.

Mention may be made, as preferred examples of twin surfactants which can be used in the present invention, of those collected in German patent application DE 199 43 681, namely the compounds of formula (I), described in WO96 / 14926:

Y 'X' in which:

- R'i and R ' ₃ denote, independently of one another, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 25 carbon atoms;

- R ' ₂ denotes a spacer consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms;

- X 'denotes a group - (C2H4O) a- (C3H ₆ O) bZ'

- Y ’denotes a group - (C2H4O) c- (C3H6O) dZ‘ where

Z 'denotes a hydrogen atom or a radical -CH2-COOM, -SO3M, -P (O) (OM) 2, -C2H4-SO3M, -C3H6-SO3M or -ΟΗ ₂ (ΟΗΟΗ) 4ΟΗ ₂ ΟΗ, where Μ, M'represent H or an alkaline or alkaline-earth ion or ammonium or alkanolammonium, a and c, independently of one another, go from 0 to 15, b and d, independently of each other , range from 0 to 10, and the sum of a + b + c + d ranges from 1 to 25; and

- only goes from 1 to 10.

R'1 and R ' ₃ denote, independently of one another, preferably an alkyl radical having from 5 to 21, and more particularly from 7 to 19 carbon atoms;

The gemini surfactant is preferably such that each of the groups R'-i-CO and R3-CO- comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and preferably designates a residue of coconut fatty acids (mainly comprising lauric acid and myristic acid).

Preferably b and d are equal to 0.

In addition, this surfactant is preferably such that the sum of a, b, c and d has an average value ranging from 10 to 20 and is preferably from 12 to 18 and more particularly equal to 15.

A preferred group for Z ’is the group -SO3M where M is preferably an alkaline ion such as a sodium ion.

The spacer R’2 advantageously consists of a linear C1-C3 alkylene chain, and preferably of an ethylene chain (-CH2CH2-).

Finally, n is advantageously equal to 1.

A surfactant of this type is in particular that identified by the name INCI: DISODIUM ETHYLENE DICOCAMIDE PEG-15 DISULFATE, having the following structure:

II rcn-ch ₂ ch-n — cr

RCO represents a radical of coconut fatty acids and s + t has an average value of

15.

Preferably, the twin surfactant according to the invention is used in admixture with other surfactants chosen from

i) esters of C6-C22 fatty acid (preferably C14-C20 such as a stearate) and of glyceryl such as Glyceryl Stearate;

ii) diesters of C6-C22 fatty acid (preferably C14-C20 such as a stearate) and citric acid and glycerol (in particular a diester of C6-C22 fatty acid and glyceryl monocitrate ), such as Glyceryl Stearate Citrate;

iii) C10-C30 fatty alcohols (preferably behenyl alcohol);

iv) polyoxyalkylenated, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated fatty alcohols, C8-C24 (preferably C12-C18) fatty alcohols (which may contain from 10 to 1000 oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated groups) such as the oxyethylenated ether of cetearyl alcohol to 25 oxyethylenated groups (CTFA name Ceteareth-25), (v) and their mixtures.

It is possible, for example, to use the twin surfactant in admixture with other surfactants in the form of the products sold by the company SASOL under the names CERALUTION®, and in particular the following products:

• Ceralution® H: Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and Disodium Ethylene Dicocamide PEG-15 Disulfate, • Ceralution® F: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate and Disodium Ethylene Dicocamide PEG-15 Disulfate.

• Ceralution® C: Capric / Caprylic Triglyceride, Ceteareth-25, Disodium Ethylene

Dicocamide PEG-15 Disulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Behenyl Alcohol,

Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, (INCI names).

More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of geminated surfactant and of at least one fatty alcohol in polyoxyalkylenated C8-C24. More particularly, the twin surfactant represents from 20 to 40% by weight and said polyalkoxylated fatty alcohol by weight from 60 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture of surfactants comprising the twin surfactant.

As fatty alcohols in C8-C24 (preferably in C12-C18) polyoxyalkylenated, in particular oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated, preferably used are those which comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular containing from 20 to 100 units oxyethylene, in particular ethoxylated fatty alcohols, in particular C8-C24 and preferably C12-C18, for example ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylene units (INCI name Steareth-20), for example Brij 78 sold by the company Uniqema , ethoxylated cetearyl alcohol with 25 oxyethylene units (INCI name: Ceteareth-25), ethoxylated cetearyl alcohol with 25 oxyethylene units (INCI name: Ceteareth-30), and the mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols comprising 7 oxyethylene units (INCI name: C12-C15 Pareth-7), for example the product sold under the name Neodol 25-7® by the company Shell Chemicals; or in particular oxyalkylenated alcohols (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) containing from 1 to 15 oxyethylene and / or oxypropylene units, in particular ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols, and preferably C12-C18 fatty alcohols, such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol with two oxyethylenated units (INCI name: Steareth-2), for example the product Brij 72 sold by the company Uniqema. Advantageously, we will use Ceteareth-25.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of Disodium Ethylene Dicocamide PEG-15 Disulfate and Ceteareth-25 as the product sold under the trade name Ceralution® ES of Sasol (INCI name: Ceteareth-25 (and) Disodium ethylene Dicocamide PEG-15 Disulfate).

The gemini surfactant may be present in the composition according to the invention in an active material content ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight. weight and better ranging from 0.2 to 2% by weight.

SILICONE SURFACTANTS

The compositions of the invention comprise at least one silicone surfactant.

The term “silicone surfactant” denotes a silicone compound comprising at least one oxyalkylenated chain, in particular comprising at least one oxyethylenated (-OCH2CH2-) and / or oxypropylenated chain (-OCH2CH2CH2-) and / or a polyglycerolated chain.

As silicone surfactant, there may be mentioned, as examples, polydimethylsiloxanes comprising both oxyethylene groups and oxypropylene groups. Mention may for example be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with an oxyethylene / oxypropylene ending in admixture with triglycerides of caprylic / capric acid, such as the product sold under the trade name ABIL CARE 85® by the company Evonik Goldschmidt (INCI name: BIS-PEG / PPG -16/16 PEG / PPG-16/16

Dimethicone / Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride), polydimethylsiloxane comprising an alpha-omega polyether group (OE / OP: 40/60), sold under the trade name ABIL B8832® by the company Goldschmidt (INCI name: BIS-PEG / PPG20 / 20 Dimethicone), the oxyethylenated oxypropylenated polydimethylsiloxane sold under the trade name ABIL B88184® by the company Goldschmidt (INCI name: PEG / PPG-20/6 Dimethicone), the polydimethylsiloxane with oxyethylene / oxypropylene ending, sold under the trade name ABIL CAR ® by the company Evonik Goldscmidt (INCI name: BIS-PEG / PPG20 / 5 PEG / PPG20 / 5 Dimethicone; Methoxy PEG / PPG-25/4) Dimethicone; caprylic / capric triglyceride and oxyethylenated oxypropylenated polydimethyl / methylsiloxane sold under the trade name ABIL B8852® by the company Goldschmidt (INCI name: PEG / PPG-4/12 Dimethicone), and their mixtures. Alternatively, the silicone surfactant can also be a polydimethylsiloxane with polyglyceryl chains, such as polyglyceryl-3 polymethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, laurylpolyglyceryl-3 polymethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone and polyglyceryl-3 disiloxane dimethicone and their mixtures. Such silicone surfactants are described in patent application EP 1 213 316. According to a particular embodiment, the silicone surfactant is a 3-polyglyceryl disiloxane dimethicone sold under the trade name KF 6100 by the company Shin Etsu.

More preferably, polydimethylsiloxanes will be used comprising both oxyethylene groups and oxypropylene groups, more particularly polydimethylsiloxanes with an oxyethylene / oxypropylene ending in admixture with caprylic / capric acid triglycerides and more particularly the silicone surfactant under the name INCI: BIS-PEG / PPG-16/16 PEG / PPG-16/16 Dimethicone / Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride.

The silicone surfactant can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 7% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight.

Pigments

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment.

The term “pigments” is understood to mean white or colored, mineral or organic particles, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting composition and / or deposit. These pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic.

Preferably, the composition comprises at least 5% by weight of pigments, more preferably from 5% to 40% by weight of pigments, in particular from 10% to% by weight and preferably from 10% to 20% by weight of pigments , relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

By "mineral pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the chapter inorganic pigment. Mention may be made, among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue , chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments can also be used: Ta ₂ O5, T13O5, T12O3, TiO, ZrO ₂ in mixture with TiO ₂ , ZrO ₂ , Nb ₂ Os, CeO ₂ , ZnS.

The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D [50] greater than 100 nm and which can range up to 10 pm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 pm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 pm.

The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer of the MasterSizer 3000 type from Malvern, making it possible to grasp the particle size distribution of all the particles over a wide range which can go from 0.01 μm to 1000 pm. The data are processed on the basis of the classical Mie diffusion theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicronic to multimicronic, it makes it possible to determine an "effective" diameter of particles. This theory is described in particular in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

D [50] represents the maximum size that the particles represent 50% by volume

In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. By way of example, mention may be made more particularly of titanium dioxide and iron oxide, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example sold under the reference NAI by the company MIYOSHI KASEI.

As mineral pigments which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of nacres.

By "nacres", it is necessary to understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It can also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring matters.

Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride. Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of TIMICA®, FLAMENCO® and DUOCHROME® (on mica) nacres marketed by ENGELHARD, TIMIRON® nacres marketed by MERCK, PRESTIGE mica nacres marketed by ECKART and nacres on the basis of SUNSHINE® synthetic mica marketed by SUN CHEMICAL.

The nacres can more particularly have a yellow or pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery color or reflection.

By way of illustration of the nacres that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made, in particular, of gold-colored nacres, in particular, sold by the company ENGELHARD, under the name of Brillant gold 212G® (Timica), Gold 222C® (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X® (Cloisonne); bronze nacres, in particular, marketed by the company MERCK under the name Bronze fine (17384) ® (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) ® (Colorona) and by the company ENGELHARD under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C® (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101® (Cosmica) and by the company MERCK under the name Passion orange® (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) ® ( Microna); in particular the brown-colored mother-of-pearl sold by ENGELHARD under the names Nu-antique copper 340XB® (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509® (Chromalite); copper reflection nacres, in particular, marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Copper 340A® (Timica); in particular, the red-reflective nacres sold by the company MERCK under the name Sienna fine® (17386) (Colorona); the yellow-reflection nacres, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) ® (Chromalite); the red-colored pearls with a gold reflection, in particular, marketed by the company ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012® (Gemtone); pink nacres, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Tan opal G005® (Gemtone); black pearls with gold reflection, in particular, marketed by ENGELHARD under the name

Nude antique bronze 240 AB® (Timica), the blue mother-of-pearl, in particular, sold by the company MERCK under the name Matte blue (17433) ® (Microna), the white mother-of-pearl with silver reflection, in particular, marketed by the company MERCK under the name Xirona Silver and the pinkish orange-green pearly green, in particular, sold by the company MERCK under the name Indian summer® (Xirona) and their mixtures.

Among the pigments which can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional tinting effect, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example , monochromatic pigments. Within the meaning of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of color variability effect with the angle of observation or even in response to a change in temperature.

For example, this material can be chosen from particles with a metallic reflection, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, as well as fibers, in particular, interference. Of course, these different materials can be combined so as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even of a new effect in accordance with the invention.

The particles with a metallic reflection which can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from:

- particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative,

- the particles comprising an organic or mineral substrate, monomaterial or multimaterial, covered at least partially by at least one layer with metallic reflection comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metallic derivative, and the mixtures of said particles.

Among the metals which may be present in said particles, there may be mentioned for example Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te , Se and mixtures or alloys thereof. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (eg, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

By "metallic derivatives" is meant compounds derived from metals, in particular, oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides

By way of illustration of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those marketed under the names STARBRITE 1200 EAC® by the company SIBERLINE and METALURE® by the company ECKART.

Mention may also be made of metallic copper powders or mixtures of alloys, such as the references 2844® marketed by the company RADIUM BRONZE, metallic pigments, such as aluminum or bronze, such as those marketed under the names ROTOSAFE 700® from the company ECKART, the aluminum particles coated with silica marketed under the name VISIONAIRE BRIGHT SILVER® from the company ECKART and the particles of metallic alloy, such as bronze powders (copper and ίο zinc alloy) coated with silica the name of Visionaire Bright Natural Gold from Eckart.

It may also be particles comprising a glass substrate such as those sold by the company NIPPON SHEET GLASS under the names MICROGLASS METASHINE®.

The goniochromatic coloring agent may be chosen, for example, from multilayer interference structures and liquid crystal coloring agents.

Examples of symmetrical interference multilayer structures which can be used in compositions produced in accordance with the invention are, for example, the following structures: AI / SiO2 / AI / SiO2 / AI, pigments having this structure being sold by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS; Cr / MgF2 / AI / MgF ₂ / Cr, pigments having this structure being sold under the name CHROMAFLAIR® by the company FLEX; MoS ₂ / SiO ₂ / AI / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O ₃ / SiO2 / AI / SiO2 / Fe ₂ O3, and

Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe ₂ O3, pigments having these structures being sold under the name SICOPEARL® by the company BASF; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe ₂ O3;

TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / AI ₂ O ₃ / TiO2; SnO / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / SnO; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3; SnO / mica / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / mica / SnO, pigments having these structures being sold under the name XIRONA® by the company MERCK (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments can be the pigments with a silica / titanium oxide / tin oxide structure sold under the name XIRONA MAGIC® by the company MERCK, the pigments with a silica / brown iron oxide structure sold under the name XIRONA INDIAN SUMMER® by MERCK and the silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide structure pigments sold under the name XIRONA CARRIBEAN BLUE® by MERCK. Mention may also be made of the INFINITE COLORS® pigments from the company SHISEIDO. Depending on the thickness and the nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the structure Fe2O3 / SiO2 / AI / SiO2 / Fe2O3 we go from gilded green to gray red for S1O2 layers from 320 to 350 nm; from red to gold for S1O2 layers from 380 to 400 nm; from purple to green for S1O2 layers from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for S1O2 layers from 430 to 440 nm.

By way of example, pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure may be cited, those sold by the company 3M under the name COLOR GLITTER®.

As goniochromatic particles with liquid crystals, it is possible to use, for example, those sold by the company CHENIX, as well as that sold under the name HELICONE® HC by the company WACKER.

Hydrophobic coated pigments

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound and in particular as detailed below.

This type of pigment is particularly advantageous insofar as it can be considered in a large quantity together with a large quantity of water. What is more, insofar as they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they manifest a preponderant affinity for the oily gelled phase which can then transport them.

Of course, the compositions according to the invention can at the same time contain uncoated pigments.

The coating can also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound. Within the meaning of the invention, the "coating" of a pigment according to the invention generally designates the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surfactant, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted on said pigment.

The surface-treated pigments can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of a chemical, electronic, mechanical-chemical or mechanical nature well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used.

The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

According to a variant, the surface treatment consists in coating the pigments.

The coating can represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigment.

The coating can be carried out for example by adsorption of a liquid surfactant on the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and of said surfactant, optionally hot, before incorporating the particles into the others. ingredients of the makeup or care composition.

The coating can be carried out, for example, by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in US Patent 4,578,266.

The chemical surface treatment can consist in diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface pigments.

Lipophilic or hydrophobic treatment agent

When the pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluorosilicone surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebaçate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and their mixtures.

Silicone surfactant

According to a particular embodiment, the pigments can be treated on the surface totally or partially with a compound of silicone nature.

The silicone surfactants can be chosen from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof.

By “organopolysiloxane compound” is meant a compound having a structure comprising an alternation of silicone atoms and oxygen atoms and comprising organic radicals linked to silicon atoms.

Non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane

Mention may in particular be made, as non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes, of polydimethylsiloxanes, polymethylhydrogenosiloxanes and polyalkoxydimethylsiloxanes.

The alkoxy group can be represented by the radical RO - such that R represents methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl radicals, aryl radicals such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl, or substituted aryl radicals such as phenylethyl.

One method of treating pigments on the surface with a polymethylhydrogenosiloxane consists in dispersing the pigments in an organic solvent, then in adding the silicone compound. By heating the mixture, covalent bonds are created between the silicone compound and the surface of the pigment.

According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone surfactant can be a non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane, in particular chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes.

Alkylsilanes and alkoxysilanes

Alkane-functional silanes are in particular described by Witucki in “A silane primer, Chemistry and applications of alkoxy silanes, Journal of Coatings technology, 65, 822, pages 57-60, 1993”.

Alkoxysilanes such as alkyltriethoxysilanes and alkyltrimethoxysilanes sold under the references Silquest A-137® (OSI Specialties) and Prosil 9202® (PCR) can be used for coating pigments.

The use of alkylpolysiloxanes having a reactive terminal group such as alkoxy, hydroxy, halogen, amino or imino are described in application JP H07-196946. They are also suitable for the treatment of pigments.

Silicone-acrylate polymers

Grafted silicone-acrylic polymers having a silicone backbone as described in US patents 5,725,882, US 5,209,924, US 4,972,037, US 4,981,903, US 4,981,902, US 5,468,477, and in US patents 5,219,560 and EP 0 388 582, can be used .

Other silicone-acrylate polymers can be silicone polymers comprising in their structure the unit of formula (I) below:

- (- si — o -) - ( ^G 2) n ^{_ S_G} 3

(I) in which the radicals Gi, which are identical or different, represent hydrogen or a C 1 -C 10 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical; the radicals G2, identical or different, represent a C1-C10 alkylene group; G3 represents a polymer residue resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one anionic monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation; G4 represents a polymer residue resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomer; m and n are 0 or 1; a is an integer ranging from 0 and 50; b is an integer that can be between 10 and 350, c is an integer ranging from 0 to 50, provided that one of the parameters a and c is different from 0.

Preferably, the motif of formula (I) above has at least one, and even more preferably all, of the following characteristics:

the radicals G1 denote an alkyl radical, preferably the methyl radical;

n is not zero, and the radicals G2 represent a divalent C1-C3 radical, preferably a propylene radical;

G3 represents a polymer radical resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of the ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid type, preferably acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid;

G4 represents a polymer radical resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of the (meth) acrylate (Ci-C-io) type, preferably of the (meth) isobutyl or methyl type .

Examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type connecting link, mixed polymer units of the poly (meth) acrylic acid type and of the poly (meth) acrylate type.

Other examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type connecting link, polymeric units of the poly (meth) acrylate type. isobutyl.

Silicone resins

The silicone surfactant can be chosen from silicone resins.

By "resin" is meant a three-dimensional structure.

The silicone resins can be soluble or swellable in silicone oils. These resins are polymers of crosslinked polyorganosiloxanes.

The nomenclature of silicone resins is known under the name of "MDTQ", the resin being described according to the different siloxane monomer units which it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit.

The letter M represents the monofunctional unit of formula (CH ₃ ) ₃ SiOi / 2, the silicon atom being linked to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.

The letter D signifies a difunctional unit (CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO2 / 2 in which the silicon atom is linked to two oxygen atoms.

The letter T represents a trifunctional unit of the formula (CH ₃₎ SiO _3/2.

In the units M, D, T defined above, at least one of the methyl groups may be substituted by a group R different from the methyl group such as a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms or a phenyl group or even a hydroxyl group.

Finally, the letter Q signifies a tetra functional unit S1O4 / 2 in which the silicon atom is linked to four hydrogen atoms which are themselves linked to the rest of the polymer.

Various resins of different properties can be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomers (or units), the type and number of substituted radicals, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and size of the hanging chains.

By way of example of these silicone resins, there may be mentioned:

siloxysilicates which may be trimethyl formula [(CH ₃₎ 3XSiXO] _x X (SiO _4/2) y (MQ units) wherein x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80;

polysilesquioxanes of formula (CH ₃ SiO3 / 2) x (T units) in which x is greater than 100 and in which at least one of the methyl radicals can be substituted by a group R as defined above;

polymethylsilsesquioxanes which are polysilsesquioxanes in which none of the methyl radicals is substituted by another group.

Such polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described in document US 5,246,694.

As examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those which are marketed:

by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK® such as Belsil PMS MK®: polymer comprising repeating units CH3S1O3 / 2 (T units), which can also comprise up to 1% by weight of units (CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO2 / 2 (units D) and having an average molecular weight of approximately 10,000;

by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L® which are composed of T units of formula CH3S1O3 / 2 and have terminal groups Si-OH (silanol), under the reference KR-242A® which comprise 98% of T units and 2% of dimethyl D units and have end groups Si-OH or also under the reference KR251 comprising 88% of T units and 12% of dimethyl D units and have end groups Si-OH.

As siloxysilicate resins, mention may be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate resins (TMS) optionally in the form of powders. Such resins are sold under the references SR1000®, E 1 170-002® or SS 4230®, by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC or under the references TMS 803®, WACKER 803® and 804® by the company WACKER SILICONE CORPORATION.

Mention may also be made of timethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name "KF-7312J®" by the company Shin-Etsu, "DC 749®", "DC 593®" by the company Dow Corning.

By way of example of commercial references of pigments treated with a silicone compound, there may be mentioned:

- red iron oxide / dimethicone sold under the reference SA-C 338075-10® by the company Miyoshi Kasei; and

a pigment obtained by treatment of DC Red 7 with a silicone compound, sold by the company Coletica under the reference Gransil GCM® (which is a mixture of D5 and of polysilicone 11).

Fluorinated surfactant

The pigments can be totally or partially surface treated with a compound of fluorinated nature.

The fluorinated surfactants can be chosen from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoropolyethylenes (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyeth groups.

The term "perfluoroalkyl radical" means an alkyl radical in which all of the hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms.

Perfluoropolyethers are described in particular in patent application EP 0 486 135, and sold under the trade names FOMBLIN® by the company MONTEFLUOS.

Perfluoroalkyl phosphates are in particular described in application JP H05-86984. The perfluoroalkyl phosphate-diethanolamine sold by Asahi Glass under the reference AsahiGuard AG530® can be used.

Among the linear perfluoroalkanes, mention may be made of perfluorocycloalkanes, perfluoro (alkylcycloalkanes), perfluoropolycycloalkanes, aromatic perfluorocarbons (perfluoroarenes) and organo-perfluorocarbon compounds comprising at least one heteroatom.

Among the perfluoroalkanes, mention may be made of the series of linear alkanes such as perfluorooctane, perfluorononane or perfluorodecane.

Among the perfluorocycloalkanes and perfluoro (alkylcycloalkanes), mention may be made of perfluorodecaline sold under the name "FLUTEC PP5 GMP®" by the company RHODIA, perfluoro (methyldecaline), perfluoro (C3-Cs alkylcyclohexanes) such as perfluoro ( butylcyclohexane).

Mention may be made, among perfluoropolycycloalkanes, of bicyclo [3.3.1] nonane derivatives such as perfluorotrimethylbicyclo [3.3.1] nonane, adamantane derivatives such as perfluorodimethyladamantane and perfluorinated derivatives of hydrogenated phenanthrene such as tetracosafluorenethane.

Among the perfluoroarenes, mention may be made of perfluorinated naphthalene derivatives such as perfluoronaphthalene and perfluoromethyl-1-naphththalene.

By way of example of commercial references of pigments treated with a fluorinated compound, there may be mentioned:

yellow iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference

PF 5 Yellow 601® by the company Daito Kasei;

red iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference

PF 5 Red R 516L® by the company Daito Kasei;

black iron oxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF

Black BL 100® by the company Daito Kasei;

titanium dioxide / perfluoroalkyl phosphate sold under the reference PF 5 TiO2 CR 50® by the company Daito Kasei;

yellow iron oxide / perfluoropolymethylisopropylether sold under the reference Iran oxide yellow BF-25-3 by the company Toshiki;

DC Red 7 / perfluoropolymethylisopropylether sold under the reference D&C Red 7 FHC® by the company Cardre Inc.; and DC Red 6 / PTFE sold under the reference T 9506® by the company WarnerJenkinson.

Fluorosilicone surfactant

The pigments can be totally or partially surface treated with a compound of fluoro-silicone nature.

The fluoro-silicone compound can be chosen from perfluoroalkyl dimethicones, perfluoroalkyl silanes and perfluoroalkyl trialcoxysilanes.

As perfluoroalkyl silanes, mention may be made of the products LP-IT® and LP-4T® sold by Shin-Etsu Silicone.

Perfluoroalkyl dimethicones can be represented by the following formula

CH,

CH ₃ —If-o

CH,

CH, I Hh ₃ I If O I -If-O- I - o I R I I Rf I— - m i— —i

-Si-CH, in which:

R represents a linear or branched divalent alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a divalent methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group;

Rf represents a perfluoroalkyl radical, having 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

m is chosen between 0 to 150, preferably between 20 to 100; and n is chosen between 1 to 300, preferably between 1 to 100.

By way of example of commercial references of pigment treated with a fluoro-silicone compound, mention may be made of titanium dioxide / fluorosilicone sold under the reference Fluorosil Titanium dioxide 100TA® by the company Advanced Dermaceuticals International Inc ..

Other lipophilic surfactants

The hydrophobic treatment agent can also be chosen from:

i) metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, and the aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate;

As metallic soaps, mention may in particular be made of metallic soaps of fatty acids having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular those having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

The metal of the metallic soap can in particular be zinc or magnesium. As the metallic soap, zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof can be used.

ii) fatty acids such as lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid, palmitic acid;

iii) N-acylated amino acids or their salts which may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group;

The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

The salts of these compounds can be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, potassium salts.

Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, an N-acylated amino acid derivative may in particular be a derivative of glutamic acid and / or a salt thereof, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, such as for example stearoyl glutamate d 'aluminum.

iv) lecithin and its derivatives;

v) isopropyl triisostearyl titanate;

Examples of pigments treated with isopropyl titanium triisostearate (ITT) include those sold under the commercial reference BWBO-I2® (Iran oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), BWY0-I2® (Iran oxide CI77492 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate), and BWRO-I2® (Iran oxide CI77491 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate) by the company KOBO.

vi) isostearyl sebaçate;

vii) natural plant or animal waxes or polar synthetic waxes;

viii) fatty esters, in particular by jojoba esters;

ix) phospholipids; and

x) mixtures thereof.

The waxes mentioned in the compounds mentioned above can be those generally used in the cosmetic field, as defined below.

They can in particular be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin.

The term "polar wax" means a wax containing chemical compounds comprising at least one polar group. Polar groups are well known to those skilled in the art; it may for example be an alcohol, ester or carboxylic acid group. The polar waxes do not include polyethylene waxes, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerite, Fisher-Tropsch waxes.

In particular, polar waxes have an average solubility parameter ôa of HANSEN at 25 ° C such that ôa> 0 (J / cm ³ ) ^1/2 and better ôa> 1 (J / cm ³ ) ¹⁷² :

(5 “^ ' ^! (5 ~ + û r where érop and ôh are respectively the polar contributions and of types interactions specific to the Hansen solubility parameters.

The definition of solvents in the three-dimensional solubility space according to HANSEN is described in the article by C. M. HANSEN, "The three dimensionnai solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967):

ôh characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonds, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.);

öp characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles.

The parameters érop and ôh are expressed in 1 (J / cm ³ ) ¹⁷²

A polar wax is in particular made up of molecules comprising, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms in their chemical structure, heteroatoms (such as O, N, P).

By way of nonlimiting illustration of these polar waxes, mention may be made in particular of natural polar waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, orange wax, lemon wax, and insect waxes. China, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax, montan wax.

According to a particular embodiment, the pigments can be coated with at least one compound chosen from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; natural vegetable or animal waxes; fatty esters; and their mixtures.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments can be coated with an N-acylated amino acid and / or one of its salts, in particular with a derivative of glutamic acid and / or one of its salts, or with a fatty ester , in particular by a jojoba ester.

According to a more particularly preferred embodiment, the pigments can be coated with an N-acylated amino acid and / or one of its salts, in particular with a derivative of glutamic acid and / or one of its salts, in particular a stearoyl glutamate , such as for example aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

As preferred coated pigments according to the invention, use will be made more particularly of titanium dioxides coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, iron oxides coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate and their mixtures coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example sold under the reference N Al® by MIYOSHI KASEI.

Pigments not coated with a hydrophobic compound

As stated previously, a composition may also contain pigments which are not coated with a lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

These other pigments can be coated with a hydrophilic compound or uncoated.

These pigments can be in particular mineral pigments as defined above.

These pigments can also be organic pigments.

By "organic pigment" is meant any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigment. The organic pigment can in particular be chosen from the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of the metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

The organic pigment (s) can be chosen for example from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments coded in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the pigments green codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, the orange pigments coded in the Color index under the references Cl 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole, phenolic derivatives as they sound t described in patent FR 2,679,771.

These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of organic pigments on the core.

The pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer is meant insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine. Mention may also be made of the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (Cl 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (Cl 45 370), D&C Red 27 (Cl 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (Cl 45 425), D&C Red 3 (Cl 45 430), D&C Red 4 (Cl 15 510), D&C Red 33 (Cl 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (Cl 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (Cl 15 985), D&C Green (Cl 61 570) , D&C Yellow 1 O (Cl 77 002), D&C Green 3 (Cl 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (Cl 42 090).

Mention may be made, as examples of lacquers, of the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (Cl 15 850: 1).

Nature of the hydrophilic coating

As stated previously, these other pigments can be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

Said hydrophilic compound allowing surface treatment of a pigment to optimize its dispersion in the gelled aqueous phase is more particularly chosen from biological polymers, carbohydrates, polysaccharides, polyacrylates or derivatives of polyethylene glycol.

By way of examples of biological polymers, mention may be made of polymers based on carbohydrate type monomers.

More particularly, mention may be made of biosaccharide gum; chitosans and their derivatives, such as butoxy chitosan, carboxymethyl chitosan, carboxybutyl chitosan, chitosan gluconate, chitosan adipate, chitosan glycolate, chitosan lactate, etc. ; chitins and their derivatives, such as carboxymethyl chitin, chitin glycolate; cellulose and its derivatives such as cellulose acetate; microcrystalline cellulose; diamidon phosphate; sodium hyaluronate; soluble proteoglycans; galactoarabinanes; glycosaminoglycans; glycogen; sclerotium gum; dextran; starch and its derivatives; and their mixtures.

Mention may in particular be made, as examples of carbohydrates, of polyhydroxyaldehydes or polyhydroxyketones, of general formula: C _x (H ₂ O) _y in which x and y can range from there 1 000 000.

Carbohydrates can be monosaccharides, disaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of carbohydrates that may be mentioned include amylodextrins, beta-glucans, cyclodextrins, modified corn starch, glycogen, hyaluronic acid, hydroxypropylcylodextrin, lactose, maltitole, guanosine, l glyceryl starch, Triticum vulgare starch, trehalose, sucrose and its derivatives, raffinose, sodium chondroidin sulfate.

Can still be used as surface treatment agents, C1-C20 alkylene glycols or ethers of C1-C20 alkylene glycols, alone or used in combination with tri-Ci-C2o-alkylsilanes.

By way of example, mention may be made of the pigments treated on the surface with PEG alkyl ether alkoxy silane, such as for example the pigments treated with PEG8-methyl ether triethoxysilane sold by the company KOBO under the name of the pigments "SW®".

May also be suitable for the invention as surface treatment agent, silicones such as dimethicones having hydrophilic groups, also known under the name of dimethicone copolyols or dimethicone copolyol alkyl. In particular, such dimethicones can comprise, as repeating units, C1-C20 alkylene oxides, such as ethylenic or propylenic.

By way of example, there may be mentioned the pigment treated with PEG-12-dimethicone, sold by the company SENSIENT CORPORATION, under the name LCW AQ® pigment.

The quantity of the pigments coated with at least one hydrophilic compound and / or of the uncoated pigments is in particular conditioned by the destination of the cosmetic composition considered and its adjustment naturally falls within the competence of the formulator of the composition.

CONTINUOUS AQUEOUS PHASE

The aqueous phase comprises water and optionally water-soluble or water-miscible ingredients such as water-soluble solvents.

According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase of the compositions of the invention represents at least 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 45 to 70% by weight, more particularly from 50 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. To complete

According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise at least 35% by weight of water, in particular at least 40% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said composition.

A water suitable for the invention can be floral water such as blueberry water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL® water, LUCAS® water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.

The aqueous phase can also include organic solvents miscible with water (at room temperature - 25 ° C) such as for example monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol , hexylene glycol, caprylylglycol, glyceryl caprylate, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as (C1-C4) alkyl ethers of mono, di- or tripropylene glycol, (C1-C4) alkyl ethers of mono, di- or triethylene glycol , and mixtures thereof.

DISCONTINUOUS OIL PHASE

The composition of the invention comprises a discontinuous oily phase. Said phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at room temperature (2025 ° C). It is organic and immiscible in water.

The oily phase (or fatty phase) of the compositions according to the invention comprises at least one oil. It can consist of a single oil or a mixture of several oils.

The term oil is understood to mean any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20-25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure. These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

According to one embodiment, the oils are chosen from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils and their mixtures.

By "oil" is meant a fatty substance which is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760mm Hg, ie 10 ⁵ Pa). The oil can be volatile or non-volatile.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

The term “fluorinated oil” means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions.

By “volatile oil” is meant, within the meaning of the invention, any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than an hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ' ³ to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1,300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg).

The term “non-volatile oil” means an oil which remains on the skin or the keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10 ' ³ mm Hg (0.13 Pa) .

The total concentration in the oily phase of the composition of the invention varies, preferably, from 10 to 50% by weight and more particularly ranging from 15 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Volatile oils

According to one embodiment, the oily phase of the compositions of the invention comprises at least one volatile oil. The oily phase of the compositions of the invention may comprise a mixture of several volatile oils.

The volatile oils can be hydrocarbon, silicone or fluorinated.

The volatile oils can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes (also called isoparaffins or isoalkanes), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4 , 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars® or Permethyls®.

As volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, mention may also be made of linear C9-C17 alkanes, such as dodecane (C12) and tetradecane (C14), sold respectively under the references of PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97 (Sasol) and like the alkanes obtained according to the process described in international application WO2007 / 068371 A1, such as the mixture of undecane (Cn) and tridecane (C13).

According to one embodiment, the oily phase of the compositions of the invention comprises at least one volatile silicone oil.

As volatile silicone oils, volatile silicones can also be used, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity less than or equal to 8 centistokes (east) (8 × 10 ′ ⁶ m ² / s), and having, in particular, from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular, from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones comprising, optionally, alkyl or alkoxyl groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned, in particular, dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 is, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

More particularly, as volatile silicone oil, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicone oils having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.

As volatile fluorinated oil, nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and their mixtures, may be mentioned, for example.

Non-volatile oils

The non-volatile oils can, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated oils and / or non-volatile silicone oils.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, there may be mentioned in particular:

hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, physostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl glutamate (AJINOMOTO®, ELDEW PS203®), triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular, the fatty acids of which can have chain lengths varying from C4 to C36, and in particular from C-is to C36, these oils being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils can, in particular, be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, bancoulier, passionflower, butter butter shea, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach almond oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, oil baobab, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp oil , rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, squash seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, oil macadamia, corn oil, pearl oil ('meadowfoam'), St. John's wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, l walnut oil, olive oil, oil evening primrose, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio oil, pumpkin oil, pumpkin, rosehip oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, and watermelon seed oil, and mixtures thereof, or still caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel, linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral origin or synthetic such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petrolatum, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane; synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as dicaprylylether;

synthetic esters, such as oils of formula R ¹ COOR ² , in which R ¹ represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R ² represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, branched containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that the sum of the number of carbon atoms in the chains R ¹ and R ² is greater than or equal to 10. The esters can be, in particular, chosen from esters of alcohol and fatty acid, for example: cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactact, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ri cinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, diheptanoate polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol hexanoate 2-dianoate, and mixtures thereof, benzoates of C12-C15 alcohols, hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acid, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, neopentanoate isotridecyl, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldocecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate;

the esters of dimer diols and of diacid dimers, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7®, sold by the company Japanese Fine Chemical and described in application US 2004-175338;

copolymers of dimer diol and of dimer diacid and their esters, such as the dilinoleyl diol / dilinoleic dimer copolymers and their esters, such as for example Plandool-G;

copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA, or the copolymer of dilinoleic acid / butanediol; fatty alcohols liquid at room temperature with branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2undécylpentadécanol;

higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof;

di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis;

oils of high molar mass having, in particular, a molar mass ranging from approximately 400 to approximately 10,000 g / mol, in particular, from approximately 650 to approximately 10,000 g / mol, in particular, from approximately 750 to about 7,500 g / mol, and more particularly, varying from about 1,000 to about 5,000 g / mol. As oil of high molar mass which can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of oils chosen from:

lipophilic polymers, esters of linear fatty acids having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to

70, hydroxylated esters, aromatic esters, esters of fatty alcohols or of branched fatty acids C24-C28, silicone oils, oils of vegetable origin, and mixtures thereof;

fluorinated oils optionally partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847,752;

silicone oils such as non-volatile, linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms such as caprylylmethicone; phenylated silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenyl ethyl trimethyl-siloxysilicates; and their mixtures.

Among the linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, use is preferably made of paraffin oils or petroleum jelly oil.

Among the hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, mention may preferably be made of vegetable oils, such as sweet almond oil, jojoba oil or macadamia oil.

According to a particularly preferred form, the oily phase comprises at least one non-volatile silicone oil, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, oils phenylated silicones, and their mixtures and even more preferably caprylylmethicone.

According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion comprising at least:

- the twin surfactant DISODIUM ETHYLENE DICOCAMIDE PEG-15 DISULFATE; and

- Ceteareth-25,

- the silicone surfactant of INCI name BIS-PEG / PPG-16/16 PEG / PPG-16/16 Dimethicone / Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride; and

- At least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound, in particular chosen from hydrophobic coated iron oxide pigments and / or hydrophobic coated titanium dioxide pigments, in particular said pigments are coated with stearoyl glutamate 'aluminum.

ADDITIVES

The compositions according to the invention can additionally contain additives commonly used in care and / or makeup products such as:

- active ingredients such as vitamins, for example vitamins A, E, C, B3; moisturizers; emollient agents, collagen protective agents, anti-aging agents such as HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL (MEXORYL SBB® from CHIMEX)

- sun filters;

- charges ;

- thickeners or gelling agents;

- additional coloring matters;

- perfumes,

- preservatives,

- and their mixtures.

It is routine operations of a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and the quantity of additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties thereof are not not affected.

Charges

The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one filler, of organic or mineral nature, making it possible, in particular, to give them complementary properties of mattness, coverage, hold and / or improved stability.

The term “filler” should be understood to mean colorless or white particles, solid of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of a mineral or organic nature, they make it possible to impart body or rigidity to the composition and / or softness, and uniformity to the makeup.

The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention can be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber or any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

The fillers according to the invention may or may not be coated superficially, and, in particular, they can be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the charge in the composition.

Examples of mineral fillers that may be mentioned include talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass microcapsules. or ceramic, composites of silica and titanium dioxide, such as the TSG series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass.

As examples of organic fillers, there may be mentioned the powders of polyamide (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), of polyethylene, of polymethyl methacrylate, of powders of polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon), of acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap from the company Dow Corning), lauroyl lysine, hollow polymeric microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel (Nobel Industry), hexamethylene diisocyanate / Trimethylol hexyllactone copolymer powder (Toshiki Plastic Powder), resin microbeads silicone (Toshiba's Tospearl for example) synthetic or natural micronized waxes, metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, stearate from zinc, magnesium or lithium, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore ® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in US Pat. No. 5,538,793, polyurethane powders, in particular, crosslinked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyllactone. In particular, it may be a polymer of hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone. Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example, under the name of PLASTIC POWDER D-400® or PLASTIC POWDER D-800® from the company TOSHIKI, and their mixtures. It can also be cellulose powder like that sold by Daito in the Cellulobeads range. Mention may also be made of the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in US Pat. No. 5,538,793. Such elastomer powders are sold under the names KSP-100®, KSP-101®, KSP-102®, KSP-103®, KSP-104® and KSP105® by the company SHIN ETSU; mention may also be made of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin such as hybrid silicone powders functionalized with fluoroalkyl groups, in particular sold under the name KSP-200 by the company Shin Etsu; or hybrid silicone powders functionalized with phenyl groups, in particular sold under the name KSP-300 by the company Shin Etsu.

Additional coloring matter

A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional coloring matter and preferably in an amount of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the desired color effect and the color intensity provided by the dyestuffs considered and its adjustment clearly falls within the competence of those skilled in the art. art.

The additional coloring matters suitable for the invention can be water-soluble but also liposoluble.

By “water-soluble coloring matter”, within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an aqueous phase or solvents miscible with water and capable of coloring.

As water-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as for example FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beet), carmine, chlorophyllin copper, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianine, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin.

Water-soluble colors are, for example, beet juice and caramel.

By "liposoluble coloring matter", within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic, natural or synthetic compound, soluble in an oily phase or the solvents miscible with a fatty substance and capable of coloring.

As liposoluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of liposoluble dyes, synthetic or natural, such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11 , DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes (β-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow , annatto, curcumin.

Water-soluble gelling agents

According to a particular form of the invention, the compositions of the invention can additionally comprise at least one water-soluble gelling agent in order to improve the stability of the aqueous phase without degrading its qualities of application.

It is routine operations of a person skilled in the art to adjust the nature and the quantity of the water-soluble gelling agent (s) present in the compositions in accordance with the invention, so that the desired stability and the cosmetic properties of those - they are not affected.

By “water-soluble gelling agent”, within the meaning of the invention, is meant any gelling agent capable of being completely dissolved in the molecular state or miscible in a liquid aqueous phase or else of being solubilized in colloidal form (for example in micellar form ) in a liquid aqueous phase.

As water-soluble gelling agents which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, there may be mentioned:

- homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and their esters and in particular the products sold under the names “VERSICOL F®” or “VERSICOL K®” by the company ALLIED COLLOID, “UTRAHOLD 8®” by the company CIBA-GEIGY, polyacrylic acids of the SYNTHALEN K® type,

- the copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names “COSMEDIA SP®” by the company BASF, “RETEN®” by the company HERCULES, the sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name "DARVAN N ° 7®" by the company VANDERBILT, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name "HYDAGEN F ®" by the company HENKEL,

- polyacrylic / alkyl acrylate copolymers of the PEMULEN® type,

- copolymers of the type

- crosslinked homopolymers of AMPS® (Polyacrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid) partially neutralized with ammonia) sold by the company CLARIANT (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate),

- the AMPS® / acrylamide copolymers of the SEPIGEL® or SIMULGEL® type sold by the company SEPPIC, and

- copolymers of the Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer - SEPINOV EMT 10® type from SEPPIC,

- the AMPS® / Vinypyrrolidone copolymers of the ARISTOFEX AVC® type sold by the company Clariant,

As other examples of thickening polymers, mention may be made of:

- proteins such as proteins of plant origin such as proteins from wheat, soybeans; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and sulfonic keratins;

- anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers;

cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, as well as quaternized derivatives of cellulose;

- vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam copolymers; polyvinyl alcohol;

- associative polyurethanes such as the polymer C16-OE120-C16® from the company SERVO DELDEN (marketed under the name SER AD FX1100®, molecule with urethane function and average molecular weight by weight of 1300), OE being an oxyethylenated unit, the Rheolate 205® with urea function sold by the company RHEOX or even Rheolate 208® or 204® (these polymers being sold in pure form) or DW 1206B® from RHOM & HAAS with C20 alkyl chain and urethane bond, sold 20% dry matter in water. It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these associative polyurethanes, in particular in water or in an alcoholic medium. As examples of such polymers, mention may be made of SER AD fx1010, SER AD FX1035® and SER AD 1070® of the company SERVO DELDEN, Rheolate 255®, Rheolate 278® and Rheolate 244 sold by the RHEOX company. It is also possible to use the product DW 1206F® and DW 1206J®, as well as Acrysol RM 184® or Acrysol 44® from the company RHOM & HAAS, or even Borchigel LW44® from the company BORCHERS,

- polymers of natural origin, possibly modified, such as:

- gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan gum, karaya gum;

- alginates and carrageenans;

- glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives;

- shellac resin, sandara gum, dammars, elemis, copals;

- deoxyribonucleic acid;

- muccopolysaccharides such as hyaluronic acid, chondroitins sulfate, and their mixtures.

According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the water-soluble gelling agent will be a Xanthan gum.

Xanthan is a heteropolysaccharide produced on an industrial scale by the aerobic fermentation of the bacterium Xanthomonas campestris. Its structure consists of a main chain of β-D-glucoses linked in β (1,4), similar to cellulose. One in two glucose molecules carries a trisaccharide side chain composed of an α-D-mannose, a β-D-glucuronic acid and a terminal β-D-mannose. The internal mannose residue is generally acetylated on carbon 6. About 30% of the terminal mannose residues carry a pyruvate group linked in chelated form between carbons 4 and 6. The glucuronic acids and the charged pyruvic acids are ionizable, and therefore responsible for the anionic nature of xanthan (negative charge up to pH equal to 1). The content of pyruvate and acetate residues varies according to the strain of bacteria, the fermentation process, the conditions after fermentation and the purification steps. These groups can be neutralized in commercial products with Na +, K + or Ca2 + ions (Société SATIA, 1986). The neutralized form can be converted to the acid form by ion exchange or by dialysis of an acid solution.

Xanthan gums have a molecular weight between 1,000,000 and 50,000,000 and a viscosity between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition containing 1% xanthan gum (measured at 25 ° C using a Brookfield viscometer, LVT type at 60 rpm).

Xanthan gums are represented for example by the products sold under the names Rhodicare® by the company RHODIA CHIMIE, under the name SATIAXANE ™ by the company Cargill Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry), under the name NOVAXAN ™ by ADM, and under the names Kelzan® and Keltrol® by CP-Kelco.

According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, water-soluble gelling agent will be chosen from Xanthan gums, crosslinked homopolymers of polyacrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia, and mixtures thereof.

The water-soluble gelling agent (s) may preferably be used in a proportion of 0.1 to 1% by weight in dry matter relative to the total weight of the aqueous phase, in particular from 0.2 to 0.7% by weight relative to to the total weight of the aqueous phase.

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a composition as defined above.

The term “physiologically acceptable medium” is intended to denote a medium which is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to the skin.

The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged.

APPLICATIONS

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for caring for the skin and / or keratin fibers, of the body or of the face, in particular of the face.

According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or of the face, in particular of the face.

Thus, according to a sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention can advantageously be in the form of a base composition for makeup.

A composition of the invention can advantageously be in the form of a foundation.

The compositions can be in the form of fluid or thick creams. According to another sub-mode of this embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for making up the skin and in particular the face. It can be an eyeshadow or a blush.

Such compositions are especially prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression "comprising a" should be understood as being synonymous with "comprising at least one", unless otherwise specified.

The expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ... to ..." must be understood including limits, unless otherwise specified.

The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples and figures presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a percentage by mass.

Examples 1 and 2: foundations in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion

Compositions 1 and 2 were prepared and evaluated in terms of their appearance, their stability, their application, make-up and sensory properties.

Phase Ingredients Exemplary Example 2 (outside the invention) A1 Bis-PEG / PPG-16/16 PEG / PPG16 / 16 Dimethicone (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride (ABIL CARE 85®) 1.8 0 Ceteareth-25 (and) Disodium ethylene Dicocamide PEG-15 Disulfate (CERALUTHION ES®) 3 3 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate 3 3 Caprylyl Methicone 23, .5 23.5 A2 Mixture of iron oxide and titanium dioxide pigments coated with Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate and Aluminum Hydroxide (NAI®) 13.2 13.2 A3 Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate HOSTACERIN AMPS® 1 1 B1 Glycerin 5 5 Xanthan Gum 0.2 0.2 B2 Water qsplOO qsplOO Phenoxyethanol 0.7 0.7 Propanediol 5 5 Glyceryl Caprylate 0.5 0.5 HYDROXYPROPYL TETRAHYDROPYRANTRIOL (35% active ingredient) (MEXORYL SBB®) 8.57 8.57

Process for the preparation of Examples 1 and 2:

Phase A1 was prepared by heating the constituents in a water bath to 65 ° C. with Rayneri stirring equipped with a deflocculator. When the mixture was homogeneous, the pigments A2 were dispersed there, still with stirring, and the temperature was maintained at 65 ° C.

With Moritz stirring, B1 was homogenized and then B2 added, put in a water bath at 65 ° C, still with Moritz stirring.

When the 2 phases A (A1 + A2) and B (B1 + B2) were homogeneous and at 65 ° C, the emulsion was produced by gradually adding phase A to B, increasing the speed if necessary in order to obtain a vortex. The temperature was maintained at 60-65 ° C and the speed for 10 min.

After 10 minutes, the water bath was removed and the mixture allowed to stir at room temperature. The cooling was done gradually and at about 50 ° C, A3 was added (if necessary the polymer was wetted in a fraction of oil). The speed was increased as the polymer developed.

Stirring was continued for 10 minutes and then the foundation was stirred slowly with Rayneri equipped with a deflocculator in order to gradually cool the product. The agitation was stopped when the foundation reached the temperature of 25-30 ° C.

We evaluated:

- the appearance of each composition after 24 hours;

- stability after 12 days in an oven at 55 ° C;

- stability after 2 months in an oven at 45 ° C;

- the following sensory properties after application: freshness, softness, texture.

The results obtained are shown in the following table:

Properties observed Ex 1 (invention) Ex 2 (excluding invention) Appearance at 24 ° C Smooth, homogeneous Smooth, homogeneous Stability at 12 days at 55 ° C Stable Unstable Stability at 2 months at 45 ° C Stable Unstable Sensory properties Fresh Soft creamy Unusable product

Conclusions:

Unlike Example 1 of the invention comprising the silicone surfactant, Example 2 is unstable and unusable for makeup application.

Claims (13)

1. Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular for coating keratin materials, more particularly make-up and / or care for keratin materials, such as the skin, containing at least: a) a continuous aqueous phase; and b) an oily phase dispersed in said aqueous phase; and c) at least one twin surfactant; and d) at least one silicone surfactant; and e) at least one pigment. 2. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which gemini surfactant corresponds to the following general formula (IV): in which : - R'i and R ' ₃ denote, independently of one another, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 25 carbon atoms; - R’2 denotes a spacer consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms; - X 'denotes a group - (02Η ₄ 0) ₃ - (03Η ₆ 0) βΖ' - Y 'denotes a group - (C2H4O) _c - (C3H6O) ^d Z' where Z 'denotes a hydrogen atom or a radical -CH2-COOM, -SO3M, -P (O) (OM) 2, -C2H4-SO3M, -C3H6-SO3M or -CH2 (CHOH) 4CH2OH, where Μ, M 'represent H or an alkaline or alkaline earth ion or ammonium or alkanolammonium, a and c, independently of one another, range from 0 to 15, b and d, independently of one another, range from 0 to 10, and the sum of a + b + c + d ranges from 1 to 25; and - only goes from 1 to 10. R'1 and R ' ₃ denote, independently of one another, preferably an alkyl radical having from 5 to 21, and more particularly from 7 to 19 carbon atoms; 3. Composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein the gemini surfactant is DISODIUM ETHYLENE DICOCAMIDE PEG-15 DISULFATE having the following structure: Il H rcn-ch ₂ ch-n — CR NaO ₃ S (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _s (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _t SO ₃ Na RCO represents a radical of coconut fatty acids and s + t has an average value of 15. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which gemini surfactant is used in mixture with other surfactants chosen from i) C6-C22 fatty acid esters; ii) diesters of C6-C22 fatty acid and citric acid and glycerol; iii) C10-C30 fatty alcohols; iv) polyoxyalkylenated C8-C24 fatty alcohols; (v) and their mixtures. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a mixture of geminated surfactant and of a polyoxyalkylenated C8-C24 fatty alcohol. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a mixture of 20 to 40% by weight of gemini surfactant and from 60 to 80% by weight of at least one fatty alcohol C8-C24 polyoxyalkylenated relative to the total weight of the mixture of surfactants comprising the gemini surfactant. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a mixture of Disodium Ethylene Dicocamide PEG-15 Disulfate and at least one fatty alcohol C8-C24 polyoxyalkylenated, and more particularly a mixture of Disodium Ethylene Dicocamide PEG-15 Disulfate and Ceteareth-25. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound, in particular pigments coated hydrophobic with iron oxide and / or titanium dioxide. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the surfactant is chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes comprising both oxyethylene groups and oxypropylene groups, more particularly polydimethylsiloxanes with an oxyethylene / oxypropylene ending in admixture with acid triglycerides caprylic / capric 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the silicone surfactant is the compound with the name INCI BIS-PEG / PPG-16/16 PEG / PPG16 / 16 Dimethicone / Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one water-soluble gelling agent, in particular chosen from Xanthan gums, crosslinked homopolymers of polyacrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia, and their mixtures. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, which is in the form of a foundation. 13. Process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to keratin materials of a composition 5 as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 12.