FR3006188A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING AN ASSOCIATIVE POLYURETHANE AND A HYDROPHOBIC COATED PIGMENT - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, containing at least one associative polyurethane corresponding to formula (I) and particles of pigment and / or coated nacre by at least one lipophilic compound, the mean size of said particles being greater than 100 nm.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions comprising at least one associative polyurethane and at least one hydrophobic coated pigment, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions comprising at least one associative polyurethane and at least one hydrophobic coated pigment, in the form of oil-in-water emulsions. These compositions are especially intended for care and / or make-up of the skin.

Most foundations are water-in-oil emulsions which gives them a lack of freshness to the application. The foundations, which are in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, have a satisfactory freshness but poor application properties with a relatively short application time, little slippage and a sensation of perceived brake in the end. application. In a particular embodiment, the surface of the composition may be self-leveling, it means that it is reeling a few moments after the product has been removed. The addition of an associative polyurethane in a direct emulsion foundation makes it possible to significantly improve the application. However, such a foundation does not always adhere well to the skin, it remains quite difficult to stretch on the face and the application time is quite short. There is therefore a need to date to have a makeup-type formulation in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion having good application properties on the skin. The present invention thus aims to provide oil-in-water emulsions with good cosmetic application properties. The present invention also aims to provide oil-in-water emulsions comprising an associative polyurethane adapted to combine good application properties, adhesion to the skin and a satisfactory macroscopic appearance of the formula. ,. The present invention also aims to provide oil-water emulsions for improving the sliding of compositions comprising an associative polyurethane, while improving the makeup properties of said compositions.

Thus, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, containing: at least one associative polyurethane corresponding to the following formula (I): NH 0 - 0 N In which: R1 and R4 represent, independently of one another, a compound of formula (I), wherein R1 and R4 represent, independently of one another, linear hydrocarbon radical comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, Al, A2 and A3 represent, independently of one another, a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 2 to 4 carbon atoms; represent, independently of one another, an integer from 35 to 500, * p represents an integer from 5 to 500, * q represents a number from 1 to 8, * R2 and R3 represent, independently from each other, a bivalent hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms rbone, and particles of pigment and / or nacre coated with at least one lipophilic compound, the average size of said particles being greater than 100 nm. Thanks to the associative polyurethane, one obtains a composition of thick texture, spreading well, rheofluidifiable (whose viscosity decreases with the speed of shear), of remarkable viscoelasticity. It has been shown that the combination of the particular associative polyurethane with particles of hydrophobically coated pigment (s) can significantly improve the application of the foundation, to reduce the problem of adhesion and d improve the slippery of the formula as well as its application time.

In addition, the presence of hydrophobic coated pigment makes it possible to obtain a makeup result that is more covering and therefore closer to the makeup result obtained with a traditional water-in-oil foundation. As the result is more covering, facial color imperfections are more faded, which leads to a better makeup result. Associative polyurethane For the purposes of the present invention, the term "associative polyurethane" means an amphiphilic polymer capable, in a aqueous medium, to associate reversibly with itself or with other molecules. It generally comprises in its chemical structure at least one zone or group, hydrophilic and at least one zone or group, hydrophobic. The associative polyurethanes are nonionic block copolymers comprising in the chain both hydrophilic sequences of a most often polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic sequences which may be aliphatic chains alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic chains. In particular, these polymers comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains may be pendant chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible that one or more pendant chains are provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block. The polymers can be sequenced as triblocks or multiblocks. The hydrophobic sequences may therefore be at each end of the chain (for example: hydrophilic central block triblock copolymer) or distributed at both the ends and in the chain (multiblock copolymer for example). The polymers may also be graft or star. Preferably, the associative polyurethanes according to the invention are triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1000, in particular from 100 to 300, oxyethylenated groups; and comprising at least two hydrocarbon lipophilic chains having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by said hydrophilic sequence, said hydrocarbon lipophilic chains being pendant chains or end chains of hydrophilic sequence.

Preferably, the associative polyurethanes according to the invention have a weight average molecular weight (Mw) less than or equal to 500,000 g / mol, better still less than or equal to 100,000 g / mol. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise an associative polyurethane of formula (I) as defined above. They may also include several associative polyurethanes as defined above.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise from 0.01% to 10% by weight of associative polyurethane active material of formula (I) relative to the total weight of said composition. Preferably, the associative polyurethane content ranges from 0.1% to 5% by weight, and preferably from 0.1% to 4% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of said composition. In the formula (I) as defined above, R 1 and R 4 represent, independently of one another, a linear hydrocarbon radical comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, that is to say a linear radical consisting of carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms. The term "hydrocarbon radical" denotes a radical comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly comprising one or more unsaturations.

In the formula (I), the end groups R 1 and R 4 are linear chains, which can for example be chosen from alkyl, alkenyl or alkynyl groups. According to one embodiment, in the formula (I) as defined above, R 1 and R 4 are linear hydrocarbon radicals comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. According to a preferred embodiment, R 1 and R 4 are linear alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, in the formula (I), R1 and R4 represent, independently of one another, a linear alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

According to one embodiment, in formula (I), R1 and R4 represent a linear alkyl group comprising 18 carbon atoms. In formula (I), each of Al, A2 and A3 is a divalent alkylene radical which may be linear or branched, comprising 2, 3 or 4 carbon atoms. These alkylene radicals may be ethylene, propylene or butylene groups such as isobutylene. According to one embodiment, in the formula (I), each of the radicals A1, A2 and A3 represents an ethylene radical. According to one embodiment, in formula (I), m and n represent, independently of one another, an integer between 50 and 200. According to one particular embodiment, m = n = 100.

According to one embodiment, in formula (I), p represents an integer between 50 and 200. According to a particular embodiment, in formula (I), p = 136. According to one embodiment, in the formula (I), q represents an integer between 1 and 3. Preferably, in the formula (I), q = 1. In the formula (I), R2 and R3 represent, independently of one another, a linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon radical corresponding to a diisocyanate residue of the respective formulas OCN-R2-NCO and OCN-R3-NCO . These radicals comprise from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 20 carbon atoms. In particular, the radicals R 2 and R 3 may be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic radicals. According to a preferred embodiment, the radicals R2 and R3 are the residues of the diisocyanates R2- (NC0) 2 and R3- (NC0) 2, these diisocyanates being chosen from aliphatic diisocyanates, aromatic diisocyanates, alicyclic diisocyanates and biphenyls. diisocyanates, and phenylmethane diisocyanates. Among the preferred diisocyanates, there may be mentioned in particular the following compounds: 2,4-tolylene diisocyanate, 2,6-tolylene diisocyanate, hexamethylene diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenyl diisocyanate, 1,4 phenylene diisocyanate, and more particularly the following diisocyanates: trimethyl hexamethylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, methylene-bis- (4-cyclohexyl) diisocyanate, and still more preferably 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI). Preferably, in formula (I), R2 and R3 are hexamethylene radicals.

According to this embodiment, the corresponding diisocyanate is thus hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI). In the context of the present invention, the preferred associative polyurethane is the Rheolate FX1100® proposed by the company ELEMENTIS. This polyurethane is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 136 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated with 100 moles of ethylene oxide and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) (INCI name: REG-136 / Steareth-1001 / HDI Copolymer). As associative polyurethane according to the invention, mention may also be made of an associative polyurethane obtainable by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, ( ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

Such polymers are especially provided by the company ROHM & HAAS under the names Aculyn 46 0 and Aculyn 44 0. ACULYN 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and of methylene bis (4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI) at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%) (INCI name: PEG-150 / STEARYL ALCOHOL / SMDI COPOLYMER). ACULYN 44® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a propylene glycol mixture ( 39%) and water (26%) (INCI name: PEG-150 / DECYL ALCOHOL / SMDI COPOLYMER). Particles of pigments and / or coated nacres The cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise particles of pigment (s) and / or nacres coated with a lipophilic compound, these particles possibly being identical or different. The compositions according to the invention may therefore comprise mixtures of particles of pigments and / or nacres of different nature. According to one particular embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise particles of pigment (s) coated with a lipophilic compound. The particle size of the pigment and / or mother-of-pearl is strictly greater than 100 nm. Within the meaning of the invention, "size" of a particle means its D50. The D50, or volume mean size, corresponds to the particle size defined so that 50% (3% by volume of the particles have a size less than D 50. The average volume size can be appreciated by diffraction of the light at a distance of using a Malvern MasterSizer laser granulometer, said particles to be evaluated being dispersed in a liquid medium such as, for example, octyldodecyl neopentanoate.

According to one embodiment, the size of the pigment and / or nacre particles according to the invention ranges from 100 nm to 25 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 10 μm. A composition according to the invention therefore comprises at least one pigment and / or a mother-of-pearl coated with at least one lipophilic compound, preferably at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic compound. The pigments and / or nacres are hydrophobically coated in order to be in the oily phase of the emulsion, c. that is to say in the internal phase. The term "pigments" should be understood to mean white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting composition. As inorganic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and Chromium hydrate. Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least titanium oxides and iron oxides. Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or diketo pyrrolopyrrole (DPP) lacquers. ) described in EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96/08537. Preferably, the composition comprises at least inorganic pigments coated with at least one lipophilic compound, in particular at least titanium oxides and iron oxides coated with at least one lipophilic compound. By "nacres", it is necessary to understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. The nacres may be present in a proportion of 3% to 30%, preferably 5% to 20%, and still more preferably 8% to 16%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as bismuth oxychloride, iron oxide-coated titanium mica, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with magnesium oxide. chromium, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride. Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of mother-of-pearl TIMICA, FLAMENCO and DUOCHROME (based on mica) marketed by ENGELHARD, TIMIRON pearls marketed by MERCK, mother-of-pearl containing PRESTIGE mica marketed by the company. ECKART and nacres based on SUNSHINE synthetic mica sold by the company SUN CHEMICAL. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection. As an illustration of the pearlescent agents that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made, in particular, of gold-colored pearlescent agents, sold in particular by ENGELHARD, under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 2220 (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres, in particular, sold by the company Merck under the names Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen, in particular, marketed by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the red-colored pearlescent agents, in particular, marketed by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents, in particular, marketed by Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); nacres of red hue with gold glare, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); black nacres with gold reflection, sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue pearls, in particular, sold by MERCK under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), white nacres with silvery reflection, in particular, sold by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl, in particular sold by the company Merck under the name Indian Summer (Xirona) and their blends In the sense of the invention , the coating of a pigment and / or a mother-of-pearl according to the invention generally denotes the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment and / or the mother-of-pearl with a surfactant, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment. The particles of pigments and / or nacres coated according to the invention can therefore be likened to composite particles made of several materials. According to the invention, the coated pigments and / or pearlescent agents have a multilayer structure consisting of a substrate (pigment and / or nacre) and a coating (lipophilic compound or surfactant). The particles according to the invention thus comprise a base layer corresponding to the uncoated pigment and / or mother-of-pearl on which is superimposed at least one layer of another material (corresponding to the coating). The coating of the pigment particles and / or nacres according to the invention may be partial or total. In the context of the present invention, the term "partial coating" means that the pigment and / or mother-of-pearl is covered by at least one coating layer in a proportion of 50% to 99.9% of the surface of said pigment ( or said nacre). According to one embodiment, the coated pigment and / or pearlescent particles are completely coated with at least one lipophilic compound. This embodiment corresponds to the case where the entire external surface of the pigment or nacre, namely the surface before coating, is covered by at least one lipophilic compound (corresponding to the hydrophobic coating). According to the invention, the pigments or nacres used may be coated with a lipophilic compound or a mixture of several different lipophilic compounds. The pigments or nacres according to the invention may also be further coated with an additional non-lipophilic compound. According to the invention, the coating of the pigments or nacres may comprise one or more lipophilic compounds, and optionally also one or more non-lipophilic compounds. In the context of the present invention, the lipophilic compound used to coat the pigments or pearlescent agents is also designated as a surfactant. The pigments or nacres coated according to the invention are obtained by total or partial surface treatment of the pigment or nacre by a lipophilic compound (or surfactant). This surfactant is thus absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigments / nacres.

Surface-treated pigments or pearlescent agents may be prepared according to chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used. The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments or nacres by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond. According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of a coating of solid particles. The coating may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the coated pigment or mother-of-pearl.

The coating may be carried out, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface agent on the surface of the solid particles by simply stirring the particles and said surfactant, optionally while hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other particles. ingredients of the makeup or care composition.

The coating may be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,578,266. The chemical surface treatment may consist of diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so as to the surface agent is deposited on the surface of the pigments. Lipophilic or hydrophobic treatment agent According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments or pearlescent agents may be coated according to the invention with at least one lipophilic compound chosen from the group consisting of silicone surface-active agents and surface-active agents. fluorinated fluoro-silicone surfactants, metal soaps, N-acyl amino acids or their salts, lecithin and its derivatives, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate, natural vegetable or animal waxes polar synthetic waxes, fatty esters, phospholipids and mixtures thereof. Silicone surface agent According to a particular embodiment, the pigments or pearlescent agents may be totally or partially surface-treated with a compound of a silicone nature.

The silicone surfactants may be chosen from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof. By organopolysiloxane compound is meant a compound having a structure comprising an alternation of silicon atoms and oxygen atoms and comprising organic radicals bonded to the silicon atoms. Non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane Non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes include, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes, polymethylhydrogensiloxanes and polyalkoxydimethylsiloxanes. The alkoxy group may be represented by the radical R-O- such that R represents methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl radicals, aryl radicals such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl, or substituted aryl radicals such as phenylethyl.

One method for surface treatment of pigments with a polymethylhydrogenosiloxane is to disperse the pigments in an organic solvent and then to add the silicone compound. By heating the mixture, covalent bonds are created between the silicone compound and the surface of the pigment. According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone surfactant may be a non-elastomeric organopolysiloxane, especially chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes. Alkylsilanes and Alkoxysilanes Alkoxy functional silanes are described in particular by Witucki in "Silane primer, Chemistry and applications of alkoxy silanes, Journal of Coatings technology, 65, 822, pages 57-60, 1993". Alkoxysilanes such as alkyltriethoxysilanes and alkyltrimethoxysilanes sold under the references Silquest A-137 (OSI Specialties) and Prosil 9202 (PCR) can be used for coating the pigments. Alkylpolysiloxanes having a reactive end group such as alkoxy, hydroxy, halogen, amino or imino are described in JP 077-196946. They are also suitable for the treatment of pigments. Fit) Silicone-Acrylate Polymers Grafted silicone-acrylic polymers having a silicone backbone as described in US 5,725,882, US 5,209,924, US 4,972,037, US 4,981,903, US 4,981,902, US 5,468,477 and in US 5,219,560 and EP 0388,582 may be used.

Other silicone-acrylate polymers may be silicone polymers comprising in their structure the unit of the following formula (I): ## STR1 ## in which G 1 (G 2), G 3 - G 3 G (G 2) m - S - G 4 in which the radicals G1, which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen, a C1-C10 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical; the identical or different G25 radicals represent a C1-C10 alkylene group; G3 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer; G4 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one hydrophobic monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation; m and n are 0 or 1; a is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; b is an integer ranging from 10 to 350; c is an integer ranging from 0 to 50, provided that one of the parameters a and c is different from 0. Preferably, the unit of formula (I) above has at least one, and again more preferably all, of the following characteristics: the radicals G 1 denote an alkyl radical, preferably the methyl radical; N is non-zero, and the radicals G 2 represent a divalent C 1-3 radical, preferably a propylene radical; - G3 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of the ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid type, preferably acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid; and (I) - G4 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one monomer of the (C 1 -C 10) alkyl (meth) acrylate type, preferably of the isobutyl (meth) acrylate type or methyl.

Examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, via a thiopropylene-type connecting member, mixed polymeric units of the poly (meth) acrylic acid type. and of the poly (meth) acrylate type.

Other examples of silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, via a thiopropylene type connecting member, poly (meth) acrylate type polymer units. isobutyl. iv) Silicone resins The silicone surface agent can be chosen from silicone resins. By "resin" is meant a three-dimensional structure. Silicone resins can be soluble or swellable in silicone oils. These resins are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers.

The nomenclature of the silicone resins is known under the name of "MDTQ", the resin being described as a function of the different siloxane monomer units that it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit. The letter M represents the monofunctional unit of formula (CH 3) 3 SiO 1/2, the silicon atom being connected to a single oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit. The letter D signifies a difunctional unit (CH3) 2Si0212 in which the silicon atom is connected to two oxygen atoms. The letter T represents a trifunctional unit of formula (CH3) SiO312. In the units M, D and T defined above, at least one of the methyl groups may be substituted with a group R other than the methyl group such as a hydrocarbon radical (in particular alkyl) having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms or a phenyl group or else a hydroxyl group. Finally, the letter Q signifies a tetra-functional Si0412 unit in which the silicon atom is bonded to four hydrogen atoms, themselves linked to the remainder of the polymer.

Various resins of different properties can be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying according to the type of monomers (or units), the type and number of substituted radicals, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and size of the hanging chains. By way of example of these silicone resins, mention may be made of: siloxysilicates which may be trimethylsiloxysilicates of formula [(CH 3) 3 SiO] x (SiO 4 12) y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 at 80, polysilsesquioxanes of formula (CH 3 SiO 3 12) x (T units) in which x is greater than 100 and of which at least one of the methyl radicals may be substituted by a group R as defined above, the polymethylsilsesquioxanes which are polysilsesquioxanes in which none of the methyl radicals is substituted by another group. Such polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described in US Pat. No. 5,246,694. By way of examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those marketed: by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK: polymer comprising CH 3 SiO 3 12 repeating units (T units), which may also comprise up to 1% by weight of (CH 3) 2 SiO 2 units (D units) and having an average molecular weight of about 10,000, by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L which are composed of T units of formula CH3SiO312 and have Si-OH end groups (silanol), under the reference KR-242A which comprise 98% of T units and 2% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH terminal groups or alternatively under the reference KR251 comprising 88% of T units and 12% of dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups. As siloxysilicate resins, mention may be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins, optionally in the form of powders. Such resins are sold under the references SR1000, .E. 1 170-002 or SS 4230, by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC or under the references TMS 803, WACKER 803 and 804 by the company WACKER SILICONE CORPORATION. Mention may also be made of timethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name "KF-7312J" by the company Shin-Etsu, "DC 749", "DC 593" by the company Dow Corning.

By way of example of pigments treated with a silicone compound, mention may be made of the following pigments treated by: - Triethoxycaprylylsilane treatment such as AS surface treatment (LCW) and OIS surface treatment (Daito); - Methicone treatment such as SI surface treatment (LCW); - Dimethicone treatment such as Covasil 3.05 (LCW) or SA (Miyoshi) or S101 (Daito) surface treatment - Dimethicone / trimethylsiloxysilicate treatment such as Covasil 4.05 (LCW) surface treatment; and - Copolymer Acrylate / Dimethicone treatment as surface treatment ASC (Daito). Fluoride surface agent Pigments or pearlescent agents may be totally or partially surface-treated with a compound of a fluorinated nature. The fluorinated surfactants may be chosen from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoropolyethylene (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides or polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups. The term "perfluoroalkyl radical" means an alkyl radical in which all the hydrogen atoms have been replaced by fluorine atoms. Perfluoropolyethers are described in particular in the patent application EP 0 486 135 and sold under the trade names Fomblin by the company Montefluos. Perfluoroalkyl phosphates are in particular described in application JP H05-86984. The perfluoroalkyl phosphate-diethanolamine sold by Asahi Glass under the reference AsahiGuard AG530 can be used.

Among the linear perfluoroalkanes, mention may be made of perfluorocycloalkanes, perfluoro (alkylcycloalkanes), perfluoropolycycloalkanes, perfluorinated aromatic hydrocarbons (perfluoroarenes) and perfluorinated hydrocarbon compounds containing at least one heteroatom. Among the perfluoroalkanes, there may be mentioned the series of linear alkanes such as perfluorooctane, perfluorononane or perfluorodecane.

Among the perfluorocycloalkanes and perfluoro (alkylcycloalkanes), mention may be made of perfluorodecalin sold under the name "FLUTEC PP5 GMP" by the company RHODIA, perfluoro (methyldecalin), perfluoro (C3-C5 alkylcyclohexanes) such as perfluoro (butylcyclohexane) ).

Among the perfluoropolycycloalkanes, mention may be made of bicyclo [3.3.1] nonane derivatives such as perfluorotrimethylbicyclo [3.3.1] nonane, derivatives of adamantane such as perfluorodimethyladamantane and perfluorinated derivatives of hydrogenated phenanthrene, such as tetracosafluoro-tetradecahydrophenanthrene. Among the perfluoroarenes, mention may be made of perfluorinated derivatives of naphthalene such as perfluoronaphthalene and perfluoromethyl-1-naphthalene. By way of example of commercial pigments treated with a fluorinated compound, mention may be made of the following pigments treated by: - Perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether treatment such as the FHC surface treatment (LCW); and - Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment as surface treatment PF (Daito). Fluoro-silicone surface-active agent Pigments or nacres can be totally or partially surface-treated with a fluoro-silicone compound. The fluoro-silicone compound may be chosen from perfluoroalkyl dimethicones, perfluoroalkyl silanes and perfluoroalkyl trialkoxysilanes. As perfluoroalkyl silanes, mention may be made of LP-IT and LP-4T products marketed by Shin-Etsu Silicone.

The perfluoroalkyl dimethicones may be represented by the following formula: ## STR2 ## in which: R represents a linear or branched divalent alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a divalent group; methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl; Rf represents a perfluoroalkyl radical having 1 to 9 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, m is chosen from 0 to 150, preferably from 20 to 100, and n is chosen from 1 to 300, preferably from 1 to 100.

By way of example of commercial pigments treated with a fluorosilicone compound, mention may be made of the following pigments having undergone the following treatments: acrylate / dimethicone copolymer and perfluoroalkyl phosphate copolymer treatment such as the FSA (Daito) surface treatment; Polymethylhydrogen siloxane / perfluoroalkyl phosphate treatment, such as FS01 (Daito) surface treatment; Octyltriethylsilane / Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the surface treatment FOIS (Daito); and - Perfluorooctyl triethoxysilane treatment such as FHS surface treatment (Daito). Other lipophilic surfactants The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be selected from metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate. As metal soaps, mention may be made in particular of metal fatty acid soaps having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular those having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The metal soap metal may in particular be zinc or magnesium.

As the metal soap, zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate, zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof can be used. The fatty acid may in particular be chosen from lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid and palmitic acid. The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from N-acylamino acids or their salts which may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl or myristoyl group, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl. The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine. The salts of these compounds may be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.

Thus, according to a particularly preferred embodiment, an N-acylated amino acid derivative may in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, such as, for example, stearoyl glutamate. 'aluminum.

According to a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises pigment particles obtained by treatment with aluminum stearoyl glutamate. In particular, the cosmetic composition may comprise particles of iron oxide and / or titanium coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate.

The hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from: lecithin and its derivatives, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate, natural vegetable or animal waxes or polar synthetic waxes, esters fatty acids, in particular by jojoba esters, phospholipids, and mixtures thereof. The waxes mentioned in the compounds mentioned above may be those generally used in the cosmetics field, as defined below. They can in particular be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin. The term "polar wax" means a wax containing chemical compounds comprising at least one polar group. The polar groups are well known to those skilled in the art: it may be for example an alcohol, ester, carboxylic acid group. Polyester waxes, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerite and Fisher-Tropsch waxes are not included in the polar waxes.

In particular, polar waxes have an average solubility parameter Sa of Hansen at 25 ° C such that Sa> 0 (J / cm3) 1/2 and better Sa> 1 (J / cm3) 1/2. where 8p and Sh are respectively the polar and interaction-specific contributions to Hansen's solubility parameters.

The definition of solvents in the HANSEN three-dimensional solubility space is described in the article by C. M. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). Sh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor type, etc.); 8p characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles. The parameters 8p and Sh are expressed in (J / cm3) 1/2.

A polar wax consists in particular of molecules comprising, in addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms in their chemical structure, heteroatoms (such as O, N, P). By way of non-limiting illustration of these polar waxes, mention may be made especially of natural polar waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, orange wax, lemon wax, and insect waxes. China; rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, japanese wax and sumac wax, or wax of montan. By way of example of commercial pigments treated with compounds as defined above, mention may for example be made of the pigments having undergone the following treatments: Lauroyl Lysine treatment such as LL surface treatment (LCW); - Lauroyl Lysine Dimethicone treatment such as LL / SI (LCW) surface treatment; - Magnesium myristate treatment such as MM surface treatment (LCW); - Magnesium Stearate treatment as the surface treatment MST (Daito); Hydrogenated lecithin treatment such as HLC surface treatment (LCW); - Aluminum Dimyristate treatment such as MI surface treatment (Miyoshi); - Isostearyl Sebacate treatment such as HS surface treatment (Miyoshi); - Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate treatment as the NAI surface treatment (Miyoshi); - Sodium Dilauramidoglutamide lysine treatment as surface treatment ASL (Daito); - Dimethicone / Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate treatment such as SA / NAI surface treatment (Miyoshi); - Hydrogenated Stearyl Olive Esters treatment as the MiyoNAT (Miyoshi) surface treatment; - Lauryl Lysine / Aluminum Tristearate treatment such as LL-StAl (Daito) surface treatment; - lsopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as ITT surface treatment (Daito); or - Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate / Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as PF + ITT surface treatment (Daito). The pigments or nacres coated according to the invention with at least one lipophilic compound may be present in a composition of the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, from 3% to 20% by weight, according to a particular embodiment, the pigments may be coated with at least one lipophilic compound selected from the group consisting of silicone surfactants, fluorinated surfactants, N-amino acids, and the like. -acylated or their salts, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, hydrogenated lecithin and mixtures thereof According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the coated pigments according to the invention are particles of iron oxides and / or titanium coated with at least one lipophilic compound as defined above According to a particular embodiment, the coated pigment particles are particles of iron oxides and / or titanium oxide coated with a compound. lipophilic compound selected from the group consisting of disodium stearoyl glutamate, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, dimethicone, triethoxy caprylylsilane, hydrogenated lecithin and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the coated pigments used are iron oxides and titanium oxide coated with disodium stearoyl glutamate (NAD, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate (ITT), dimethicone (SA), triethoxy caprylylsilane (AS) or Hydrogenated Lecithin (HLC).

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more surface-treated pigments or nacres (additional dyestuffs).

Hydrophilic Gelling Agent The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from the group consisting of polyacrylamides and crosslinked and / or neutralized 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid polymers and copolymers, polysaccharides and of their mixtures. The addition of a hydrophilic gelling agent in the composition may make it possible to improve the stability of the composition, especially at elevated temperatures. According to one embodiment, the mass ratio between the hydrophilic gelling agent and the associative polyurethane is less than 1, preferably between 1/50 and 1, and even more preferably between 1/20 and 1/2. When the hydrophilic gelling agent content is too high, the cosmetic properties of the composition according to the invention are reduced. The cosmetic compositions of the invention preferably comprise a hydrophilic gelling agent as defined above. They may also comprise a mixture of several hydrophilic gelling agents as defined above. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise from 0.01% to 10%, preferably from 0.1% to 5%, and preferably from 0.1% to 3% by weight of hydrophilic gelling agent active material with respect to total weight of said composition.

In the context of the present invention, the gelling agent is chosen as defined above so as not to degrade the good application properties provided by the associative polyurethane. Thus, the gelling agent should preferably have a good rheofluidifying power to have the least possible influence on the viscosity of the formula under shear during application.

The gelling agent must also be compatible with the associative polyurethane. The main mission of the gelling agent is therefore to increase the viscosity of the formula at low shear, especially for high temperatures.

A-The polyacrylamides and the polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, crosslinked and / or neutralized The hydrophilic gelling agents may be homopolymers or copolymers, crosslinked or non-crosslinked comprising at least the acrylamido acid monomer 2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS®), partially or totally neutralized by a mineral base other than ammonia such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. They are preferably neutralized completely or substantially completely neutralized, that is to say neutralized to at least 90%.

These AMPS® polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. When the polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the olefinically-polyunsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking the polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01% to 10% by moles and more particularly from 0.2% to 2% by moles relative to the polymer. The AMPS® polymers that are suitable for the invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible. They are in this case: either "homopolymers" containing only AMPS monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above; or copolymers obtained from AMPS® and one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above. When said copolymers comprise hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, the latter do not comprise a fatty chain and are preferably present in small amounts.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty chain" means any hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 7 carbon atoms. By "water-soluble or water-dispersible" is meant polymers which, introduced into an aqueous phase at 25 ° C., at a mass concentration equal to 1%, make it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, that is to say having a maximum light transmittance value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a 1 cm thick sample, at least 60%, preferably at least 70%. The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® polymers of the invention preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50,000 g / mol to 10,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 80,000 g / mol to 8,000,000 g / mol, and even more preferably from 100,000 g / mole to 7,000,000 g / mole. As water-soluble or water-dispersible homopolymers of AMPS which are suitable for the invention, mention may be made, for example, of cross-linked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate such as that used in the commercial product SIMULGEL 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl) Taurate), crosslinked polymers of ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate (INCI name: ammonium polydimethyltauramide) than those described in patent EP0815928B1 and such as the product sold under the trade name HOSTACERIN AMPS® by the company Clariant.

As hydrosoluble or water-dispersible copolymers of AMPS in accordance with the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: crosslinked acrylamide / sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate copolymers such as that used in the commercial product SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-C14 isoparaff in / laureth-7) or that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate / isohexadecane / polysorbate-80) by the company SEPPIC; copolymers of AMPS® and of vinylpyrrolidone or of vinylformamide, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name ARISTOFLEX AVC® by the company CLARIANT (CTFA name: ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / PV copolymer) but neutralized with sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide ; copolymers of AMPS® and of sodium acrylate, for example the AMPS / sodium acrylate copolymer such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL EG® by the company SEPPIC or under the trade name SEPINOV EM under (CTFA name: hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer); copolymers of AMPS® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as, for example, the AMPS® / hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL NS® by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: hydroxyethyl acrylate / copolymer) sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate (and) squalane (and) polysorbate 60 or as the product marketed under the name copolymer acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate sodium / hydroxyethylacrylate as the commercial product SEPINOV EMT 10 (INCI name: hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl tau spleen copolymer) .

According to one particular embodiment, mention may be made of: crosslinked acrylam ide / sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate copolymers such as that used in the commercial product SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-C14 isoparaffin / laureth-7) or that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL 600 name (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate / isohexadecane / polysorbate-80) by the company SEPPIC; cross-linked polymers of ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate (INCI name: ammonium polydimethyltauramide) such as those described in patent EP0815928B1 and such as the product sold under the trade name HOSTACERIN AMPS® by the company Clariant or polymers crosslinked or otherwise of sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate such as that used in the commercial product SIMULGEL 800 (CTFA name: Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate), copolymers of AMPS® and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as, for example, the AMPS copolymer ® / hydroxyethyl acrylate such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name SIMULGEL NS® by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium copolymer acryloyldimethyltaurate (and) squalane (and) polysorbate 60 or as the product marketed under the name sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate / hydroxyethylacrylate copolymer as the commercial product SEPINOV EMT 10 (name INCI: hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer).

More preferably, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from: crosslinked polymers of ammonium acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate (INCI name: ammonium polydimethyltauramide) that those described in patent EP0815928B1 and such as the product sold under the commercial name HOSTACERIN AMPS® by the company Clariant, crosslinked acrylamide / sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonate copolymers such as that used in the commercial product SIMULGEL 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate / isohexadecane / polysorbate-80) by the company SEP PEAK; and their mixtures. B-Polysaccharides In general, the polysaccharides according to the invention may be chosen from polysaccharides prepared by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae and polysaccharides from higher plants, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and its derivatives or fructans, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as gums arabic, galactomannans, glucomannans, pectins, and their derivatives . Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises, as hydrophilic gelling agent, at least one polysaccharide chosen from carrageenans, in particular kappa-carrageenan, gellan gum, agar-agar, xanthan gum, compounds based on alginate, in particular sodium alginate, saroglucan gum, guar gum, inulin, pullulan, and mixtures thereof. Advantageously, the polysaccharides may be chosen from carrageenans, in particular kappa-carrageenan, gellan gum, agar-agar, xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, in particular alginate. sodium, saroglucan gum, guar gum, inulin, pullulan, and mixtures thereof. According to one particular embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is a polysaccharide chosen from xanthan gum, alginate-based compounds, in particular sodium alginate, seroglucan gum, guar gum, and mixtures thereof. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the hydrophilic gelling agent is xanthan gum.

The xanthan gums have a molecular weight of between 1,000,000 g / mol and 50,000,000 g / mol and a viscosity of between 0.6 and 1.65 Pa.s for an aqueous composition containing 1% of gum xanthan (measured at 25 ° C. on a Brookfield viscometer, type LVT at 60 rpm) Xanthan gums are represented, for example, by the products sold under the names Rhodicare by the company Rhodia Chimie under the name Satiaxanet® by the company Cargill. Texturizing Solutions (for the food, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry), under the name NOVAXANTM by the company ADM, and under the names Kelzan® and Keltrol® by the company CP-Kelco.

To prepare the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, the hydrophilic gelling agent may be introduced before or after the emulsification phase. It is preferably introduced before the emulsification phase at the very beginning of the process. A gel in water can be made beforehand or the gelling agent can also be wetted in a part of the oil of the composition.

Physiologically acceptable medium In addition to the compounds indicated above, a cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium. By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium that is particularly suitable for applying a composition of the invention to the skin or the lips. The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention are in the form of an O / W emulsion containing a dispersed fatty (or oily) phase and a continuous aqueous phase. Aqueous phase The aqueous phase of the compositions of the invention comprises water. According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase of the compositions of the invention represents at least 50% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise at least 40% by weight of water, in particular at least 45% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said composition. A water that is suitable for the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.

The aqueous phase can also comprise organic solvents that are miscible with water (at room temperature - 25 ° C.), for example monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; the polyols having in particular 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol hexylene glycol, caprylylglycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as the mono, di or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, the mono, di or triethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers; , and their mixtures. According to one embodiment, the aqueous phase of the compositions of the invention comprises glycerol, phenoxyethanol, or a mixture thereof. The aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound compatible with an aqueous phase such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants and mixtures thereof.

Oily phase The compositions according to the invention also comprise a dispersed oily phase. According to one embodiment, the oily phase represents from 10% to 50%, and preferably from 15% to 40%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. The oily phase (or fatty phase) of the compositions according to the invention comprises at least one oil. It may consist of a single oil or a mixture of several oils. The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure. These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. According to one embodiment, the oils are selected from the group consisting of hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils and mixtures thereof. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrocarbon oil", an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms. The term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals. According to one embodiment, the oily phase of the compositions of the invention comprises at least one volatile oil and / or at least one non-volatile oil. Volatile oils According to one embodiment, the oily phase of the compositions of the invention comprises at least one volatile oil. The oily phase of the compositions of the invention may comprise a mixture of several volatile oils. The term "volatile oil" means any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or the lips, in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg / cm 2 / min, inclusive. To measure this evaporation rate is introduced into a crystallizer, with a diameter of 7 cm, placed on a scale located in a large enclosure of about 0.3 m3 temperature-controlled, at a temperature of 25 ° C., and in hygrometry at a relative humidity of 50%, 15 g of oil or oil mixture to be tested. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, providing ventilation by a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 revolutions per minute) arranged in a vertical position above the crystallizer containing said oil or said mixture, the blades being directed to the crystallizer and at a distance of 20 cm from the bottom of the crystallizer. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of evaporated oil per unit area (cm2) and per unit of time (minute).

The volatile oils may be hydrocarbon, silicone or fluorinated. The volatile oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C8-C16 alkanes (also known as isoparaffins or isoalkanes), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4 , 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names ISOPARS® or PERMETHYLS®.

As hydrocarbon-based volatile oils, mention may also be made of linear C9-C17 alkanes, such as dodecane (C12) and tetradecane (C14), sold respectively under the references PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97 (Sasol) and as the alkanes obtained according to the process described in international application WO2007 / 068371 A1, such as the mixture of undecane (C11) and tridecane (C13). As volatile silicone oils, it is also possible to use volatile silicones, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those having a viscosity less than or equal to 8 centistokes (cst) (8 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and having, in particular, from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxyl groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made, in particular, of dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cst, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. More particularly, as silicone volatile oil, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicone oils having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As the volatile fluorinated oil, there may be mentioned for example nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.

Non-volatile oils According to one embodiment, the oily phase of the compositions of the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil. The oily phase of the compositions of the invention may comprise a mixture of several non-volatile oils. "Non-volatile oil" means an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg / cm 2 / min.

The non-volatile oils may, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated oils and / or non-volatile silicone oils.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include: hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, physostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl glutamate / phytostearyl ( AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203), triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular, whose fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and especially from C18 to C36, these oils. may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils may, in particular, be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, bancoulier, passionflower oil, shea butter, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach almond oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, oil of baobab, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp oil , rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, oil macadamia, corn oil, prairie pearl oil ('meadowfoam'), St. John's wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, l walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwifruit seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio oil, pumpkin oil, pumpkin oil, rose hip oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, lemon castor oil, and watermelon seed oil, and mixtures thereof, or else triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the names MIGLYOL 810®, 812® and 818® by DYNAMIT NOBEL, - linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam squalane; synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicaprylyl ether; synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that the sum of the number of carbon atoms of the R1 and R2 chains is greater than or equal to 10. The esters may be, in particular, chosen from alcohol and fatty acid esters, for example cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, stearate or isostearate Isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactact, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially heptanoate. isostearyl, octanoates, decanoates or ricinolated alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, diheptanoate, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol diethyl 2 -hexanoate, and mixtures thereof, 0-12-015 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acid, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, neopentanoate of isotridecyl, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldocecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxyl esters, and the like. isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate; esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7®, sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical and described in application US 2004-175338; copolymers of diol dimer and diacid dimer and their esters, such as dimer dilinoleyl diol / dimers dilinoleic copolymers and their esters, such as for example Plandool-G; copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA, or dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer; branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol; higher 0-12-022 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof; di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name CETIOL CC®, by COGNIS; oils of high molar mass having, in particular, a molar mass ranging from about 400 to about 10,000 g / mol, in particular from about 650 to about 10,000 g / mol, in particular about 750 at about 7,500 g / mol, and more particularly, ranging from about 1,000 to about 5,000 g / mol. As oil of high molar mass that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made especially of oils chosen from: lipophilic polymers, linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, hydroxyl esters aromatic esters, esters of branched fatty alcohols or of C24-C285 fatty acids, silicone oils, oils of vegetable origin, and mixtures thereof; fluorinated oils which may be partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers or fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847,752; silicone oils, such as non-volatile, linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, such as caprylylmethicone; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates; and - their mixtures. Among the linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, paraffins oils or vaseline oil are preferably used. Among the hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, mention may preferably be made of vegetable oils, such as sweet almond oil, jojoba oil or macadamia oil. According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention further comprise at least one surfactant. This surfactant is selected from surfactants well known to those skilled in the art.

Additional Coloring Materials The compositions of the invention may also comprise a dyestuff or a mixture of dyestuffs, other than the pigments and / or nacres coated as defined above.

According to one embodiment, the content of additional dyestuffs is from 0.1% to 20%, preferably from 0.5% to 15%, and more preferably from 1% to 10%, by weight relative to the weight. total of said composition. The additional dyestuff (or coloring agent) present in the compositions of the invention is chosen for example from the group consisting of uncoated pigments (other than those defined above), dyes, pearlescent agents and reflective particles ( or glitter). A cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention may advantageously incorporate at least one dyestuff chosen from organic or inorganic dyestuffs, in particular of the type of pigment or nacre conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, fat-soluble or water-soluble dyes, specific optical effect and their mixtures.

According to one embodiment, the dyestuff is chosen from uncoated pigments. Thus, the compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one uncoated pigment. According to one embodiment, the content of uncoated pigments is from 0.1% to 20%, preferably from 0.5% to 15%, and still more preferably from 1% to 10%, by weight relative to the weight. total of said composition. Examples of inorganic pigments, organic pigments and nacres have been described previously.

According to one embodiment, the additional coloring material is chosen from dyes. By "dyes", it is necessary to include generally organic compounds that are soluble in fatty substances such as oils or in a hydroalcoholic phase. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may therefore also comprise water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes. Liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, 3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, Orange DC 5 and yellow quinoline. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice and caramel.

The compositions according to the invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect, also called flakes or reflective particles. This effect is different from a simple conventional hue effect, i.e. unified and stabilized as produced by conventional dyestuffs, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of effect of color variability with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature. For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic sheen, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and especially interferential fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect according to the invention. The particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from: particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, particles comprising an organic or inorganic substrate, monomaterial or multimaterial, at least partially covered by at least one metal-reflecting layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and - mixtures of said particles. Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te. Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (e.g., bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals. The term "metal derivatives" denotes compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulphides. Charges The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one filler, of an organic or mineral nature, allowing in particular, to give them additional properties of dullness, coverage, hold and / or improved stability. By "charge" is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, they make it possible to impart body or stiffness to the composition and / or softness, and uniformity to makeup. The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber or any other intermediate form between these defined forms. The fillers according to the invention may or may not be superficially coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance which promotes dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the process. composition.

Examples of mineral fillers that may be mentioned include talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass microcapsules or ceramic, composites of silica and titanium dioxide, such as the TSG series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass.

Examples of organic fillers that may be mentioned are polyamide powders (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), polyethylene, polymethylmethacrylate, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) powders, copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrap from Dow Corning), lauroyl lysine, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel (Nobel Industry), hexamethylene diisocyanate / Trimethylol hexyllactone copolymer powder (Toshiki Plastic Powder), resin microbeads silicone (Toshiba Tospearl, for example) synthetic or natural micronized waxes, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, sodium stearate; zinc, magnesium or lithium, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), powder cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with silicone resin, especially silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in US Pat. No. 5,538,793, polyurethane powders, in particular cross-linked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyllactone. In particular, it may be a hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyl lactone polymer. Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example, under the name PLASTIC POWDER D-400® or PLASTIC POWDER D-800® from TOSHIKI, and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder. The elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder (s) may be present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 12% by weight, advantageously from 1% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. . Mention may in particular be made of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in US Pat. No. 5,538,793. Such elastomer powders are sold under the names KSP-100®. KSP-101®, KSP-102®, KSP-103®, KSP-104® and KSP-105® by SHIN ETSU; mention may also be made of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin such as hybrid silicone powders functionalized with fluoroalkyl groups, especially sold under the name "KSP-200" by the company Shin Etsu; or hybrid silicone powders functionalized with phenyl groups, especially sold under the name "KSP-300" by the company Shin Etsu. According to an advantageous embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise fillers chosen from silicone fillers, and in particular KSP-1008 and KSP-300®.

Additives A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field concerned, for example chosen from gums, resins, dispersing agents, polymers, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, antiseptic agents, UV protective agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizing, emollient or collagen-protecting agents, and mixtures thereof. It falls within the routine operations of those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the additives present in the compositions according to the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties and stability properties thereof are not affected. Applications The cosmetic compositions covered by the invention may be skincare or make-up products for the face or the body. The compositions according to the invention are cosmetic compositions intended for make-up and / or care of the skin. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of a foundation. These compositions are therefore intended to be applied to the skin. The present invention also relates to a method of non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of the skin comprising a step of applying to the skin at least one layer of a composition according to the invention. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method of makeup and / or care of the skin comprising a step of applying to the skin at least one layer of a composition according to the invention as defined above.

The present invention also relates to a process for making up the skin in which a composition as defined above is applied. Throughout the application, the wording "comprising a" or "comprising a" means "comprising at least one" or "comprising at least" one unless the contrary is specified. Throughout the above description, unless otherwise stated, the term "inclusive (e) between x and y" corresponds to an inclusive range, i.e. the x and y values are included in the range. The invention will be illustrated in the following nonlimiting examples. Unless otherwise stated, the percentages are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition The compositions are prepared according to the usual methods for formulating cosmetic compositions EXAMPLES The various compositions were evaluated in their aspect, of their cosmetics, in particular their application property, a composition is therefore acceptable according to the invention if it exhibits a satisfactory macroscopic and microscopic appearance, and an improved cosmetic compared with the formula without coated pigment.Influence of the associative polyurethane structure The three compositions below are prepared and tested according to the protocols described below: Phase Chemical name 1 2 3 (excluding (except invention) invention) Polyethylene glycol mono-stearate (8 0E) 1.3 1.3 1.3 Stearic acid 0.3 0.3 0.3 Al Stearyl alcohol 0.5 0.5 0.5 Cyclohexadimethicone 18 18 18 Oxides of iron and titanium oxide coated with disodium Stearoyl 10 10 10 A2 Glutamate & Aluminum Hydroxide (= NAI) Cyclohexadimethicone 5 5 5 Water 30.95 30.95 30.95 B1 Xanthan Gum 0.35% 0.35% 0.35% Glycerin 7 7 7 B2 Preservatives 0.9 0 , 9 0.9 Mono-di-palmito-sucrose stearate 1.3 1.3 1.3 Water qs 100 qs 100 qsp 100 Steareth-100 / PEG-136 / HDI copolymer (RHEOLATE FX- 1.5 - - 1100 ) B3 PEG-240 / HDI BIS-DECYLTETRADECETH-ETHER COPOLYMER (Adekanol GT-700) - 1,5-Bis-012-14 Pareth-3 / C16-20 Pareth-11 HDI / PEG-130 7.5 (either Copolymer with 20% of active ingredient (MA) in water - - 1.5% of (Polyurethane-39, Luvigel star) MA) C LOAD (Balls of crosslinked PDMS gum - KSP 300) 2 2 2 10 Composition 1 corresponds to a composition according to the invention comprising a polyurethane of formula (I) and a pigment coated with a lipophilic compound. Compositions 2 and 3 (excluding the invention) are compositions comprising an associative polyurethane not corresponding to formula (I) according to the invention. Indeed, these compositions comprise a polyurethane with a branched hydrophobic end and a PEG chain length at the ends of less than 40. Protocol for preparing the compositions Al phase was heated to 70 ° C. A2 was then introduced into the Al phase with Raynerie stirring and maintained at 65 ° C. B1 was then prepared in Moritz by sprinkling the hydrophilic gelling agent in water and the whole is allowed to stir for 30 minutes then B2 was added. The mixture B1-B2 was heated to 70 ° C. and held at 65-66 ° C. EMULSION: still at 65 ° C., Al + A2 was added to Bl + B2 at Moritz and stirred for 10 minutes and then allowed to cool slowly ( by putting a cold water bath if necessary), up to 1 = 45-50 ° C. At Raynerie, B3 was added for 10 minutes. Cooling was continued to 35 ° C and phase C was added.

Composition evaluation protocol - Aspect formula: The macroscopic aspect of the formula has been observed especially with regard to the homogeneity of the formula and more particularly if it has a salting out or not, of the state of its surface and its fluidity. The microscopic appearance was also observed using an optical microscope, particularly in terms of the regularity of the emulsion background, the fineness, the state of the edges (sharp or with latency). A score of + to ++++ was given by combining all the criteria. Only the +++ and ++++ grades are considered acceptable according to the invention. - Cosmetic application properties: Each composition was applied to the face at a rate of 0.2 g of composition per face. The cosmetic properties that have been evaluated include the properties of application: Good adhesion, slippery, time of application. A score of + to ++++ was given by combining all the criteria. Only the +++ and ++++ grades are considered acceptable according to the invention. Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 (Excluding the invention) (Excluding the invention) Appearance of the formula ++++ + ++ Appearance Appearance Macroscopic appearance : macroscopic: macroscopic: Formula moderately Incomplete formula Formula quite fluid, thick, homogeneous, Microscopic aspect: homogeneous smooth and shiny Coarse aspect and Microscopic aspect: Microscopic aspect: irregular Emulsion very Emulsion quite fine, coarse with regular with loose edges net Application +++ +++ ++ formula Good application, Good application, Medium application, slight light deficiency lack less good adhesion adhesion adhesion The appearance of formulas obtained with the compositions of Examples 2 and 3 (excluding the invention ) is inhomogeneous The associative polyurethane according to the invention is the only one to lead to a composition (Example 1 according to the invention) which is homogeneous at the macroscopic level and microscopic.

Influence of the nature of the coating of the pigment Phase Chemical name 4 5 6 7 8 (except invention) Al Polyethylene glycol mono-stearate 1,3 1,3 1,3 1,3 0,3 0,5 13 1, 3 (80E) 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Stearic acid 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Stearyl alcohol 13 13 13 13 Cyclohexadimethicone A2 Oxides of iron and titanium oxide coated with disodium Stearoyl Glutamate & Aluminum Hydroxide (= NAI) Coated iron and titania oxides Dimethicone (= SA) Coated iron oxides and titania Triethoxycaprylylsilane (= AS) Coated iron oxides and titania Titanium Hydrogenated Lecithin (= HLC) Non-coated iron oxides and titanium oxide (Sunpuro) Cyclohexadimethicone 5 5 5 5 5 B1 Water qs qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 100 Glycerin 7 7 7 7 7 Preservatives 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 Sucrose Mono-di-palmito-stearate 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 1.3 B2 Cyclohexadimethicone 5 5 5 5 5 Steareth-100 Copolymer / PEG-136 / HDI 15 15 1.5 1.5 1.5 (RHEOLATE EX-1100),,, C CHARGE (PDMS 2 gum balls 2 2 2 2 crosslinked - KSP 300) Protocol for preparing the compositions Al phase was heated to 70 ° C. A2 was introduced into the Al phase with Raynerie stirring and maintained at 65 ° C. Phase B1 was prepared and heated to 70 ° C and held at 65-66 ° C. EMULSION: still at 65 ° C, Al + A2 was added to B1 at Moritz and stirred for 10 minutes then allowed to cool slowly (by putting a cold water bath 5 if necessary), up to T = 45-50 ° C. At Raynerie, B2 was added for 10 minutes. Cooling was continued to 35 ° C and phase C was added. Appearance of the formula Application of the formula Example 4 ++++ ++++ (NAI Pigments) Macroscopic appearance: Formula Very good application, good homogeneous, smooth and shiny adhesion, good slippage, good time Microscopic aspect: Emulsion enough fine, regular application with sharp edges Example 5 +++ ++++ (Pigments SA) Macroscopic appearance: Formula Very good application, good homogeneous, smooth and glossy adhesion, good slippage, good time Microscopic aspect: Medium application emulsion fine, regular with sharp edges Example 6 ++++ +++ (Pigments AS) Macroscopic appearance: Formula Good application, correct adhesion, homogeneous, smooth and shiny good slippery, good application time Microscopic aspect: Fine, regular emulsion with sharp edges Example 7 ++++ ++++ (HLC Pigments) Macroscopic appearance: Formula Very good application, good homogeneous, smooth and shiny adhesion, good slippery, good time Microscopic aspect: Emulsion enough fine, regular plication with sharp edges Example 8 ++++ ++ (Pigments not Macroscopic appearance: Formula Medium adhesion, the formula is more coated) homogeneous, smooth and shiny difficult to spread and has a time Microscopic appearance: Emulsion enough fairly short application. thin, regular with sharp edges The addition of a hydrophobic coated pigment makes it possible to improve the application qualities of the composition, compared to Example 8 (outside the invention) which contains hydrophobic uncoated pigments. 10

Claims (15)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, containing: at least one associative polyurethane corresponding to the following formula (I): ## STR1 ## Wherein R1 and R4 represent, independently of each other, a linear hydrocarbon radical comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, in which R1 and R4 represent, independently of one another, a linear hydrocarbon radical comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; carbon atoms, * A1, A2 and A3 represent, independently of one another, a linear or branched alkylene radical having 2 to 4 carbon atoms; * m and n are independently one of the other, an integer from 35 to 500, * p represents an integer from 5 to 500, * q represents a number from 1 to 8, 20 * R2 and R3 represent, independently of one of the another, a bivalent hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, and pigment particles and / or mother-of-pearl coated with at least one lipophilic compound, the average size of said particles being greater than 100 nm. 25 2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, comprising from 0.01% to 10% by weight of associative polyurethane active material of formula (I) relative to the total weight of said composition. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein in the formula (I), Al, A2 and A3 represent an ethylene radical. 4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein, in the formula (I), R1 and R4 represent, independently of one another, a linear alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. carbon. 10 35 5. The composition of claim 4, wherein in formula (I), R1 and R4 represent a linear alkyl group comprising 18 carbon atoms. 6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein, in the formula (I), m and n represent, independently of one another, an integer between 50 and 200. 7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, comprising from 0.1% to 30% by weight of pigment particles and / or nacre coated with at least one lipophilic compound relative to the total weight of said composition . The cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the lipophilic compound is selected from the group consisting of silicone surfactants, fluorinated surfactants, fluorosilicone surfactants, metallic soaps, N-acyl amino acids or their salts, lecithin and its derivatives, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, isostearyl sebacate, natural vegetable or animal waxes, polar synthetic waxes, fatty esters, phospholipids and their mixtures. 9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, wherein the lipophilic compound is an N-acylated amino acid derivative, especially a glutamic acid derivative and / or a salt thereof. The cosmetic composition according to any of claims 1 to 9, wherein the coated pigment particles are iron oxide and / or titanium oxide particles coated with a lipophilic compound selected from the group consisting of disodium stearoyl glutamate, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, dimethicone, triethoxy caprylylsilane, hydrogenated lecithin and mixtures thereof. 11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, comprising at least one surfactant. 12. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, comprising at least one hydrophilic gelling agent chosen from the group consisting of polyacrylamides and polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, crosslinked and / or neutralized, polysaccharides and mixtures thereof. 13. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, comprising at least one filler. 14. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, in the form of a foundation. 15. Non-therapeutic method of makeup and / or care of the skin comprising a step of applying to the skin at least one layer of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14.