FR2977486A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS IN THE FORM OF WATER-IN-OIL EMULSIONS COMPRISING A JASMONIC ACID DERIVATIVE - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium containing at least one coloring agent; and at least one compound derived from jasmonic acid, said composition being in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, said aqueous phase representing from 40% to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS IN THE FORM OF WATER-TOOIL EMULSIONS COMPRISING A JASMONIC ACID DERIVATIVE

The present invention relates to skin care and / or makeup compositions. More particularly, the present invention relates to cosmetic compositions, in the form of water-in-oil emulsions, comprising a jasmonic acid derivative. Consumers are looking for make-up or skincare cosmetic products that spread easily and quickly on the skin in the form of a deposit that should not be thick but on the contrary blend as much as possible with the support, and on the other hand, they are also looking for anti-aging products. Consumers are therefore looking more and more for cosmetic products that combine complexion-making properties and ls skincare properties, in particular to combat aging. These products most often contain active ingredients recognized for their anti-aging activity and colored particles such as pigments or nacres that hide the signs of aging. Among the anti-aging active agents, mention may be made of alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and citric acid, beta-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid, but also derivatives of jasmonic acid, described in particular in EP 1 333 021. These derivatives of jasmonic acid have the advantage of being well tolerated and not inducing discomfort on the skin such as tingling, tightness or redness. However, the introduction of these compounds into cosmetic formulations, particularly in the form of emulsions, can greatly alter their stability and induce a phase shift. To overcome this disadvantage, in the case of the water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions, the content of the dispersed aqueous phase can be increased, which makes it possible to improve the stability by increasing the viscosity. However, if the water content is too high, the cosmetic application properties of the composition are altered. There is therefore a need for compositions in the form of 35 E / H emulsions which are stable and which have good cosmetic application properties. It is an object of the present invention to provide water-in-oil emulsions for use in skincare and / or makeup compositions. The object of the present invention is to provide care and / or makeup compositions for the skin, in the form of water-in-oil emulsions, which are stable over time. The present invention aims to provide care compositions and / or makeup of the skin with a good compromise between stability and cosmetic properties. The present invention relates to a composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium containing: at least one coloring agent; and at least one jasmonic acid derivative compound of formula (1) below: OH R2 RI

in which: 20. R, represents a radical COOR3i R3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups; . R2 represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or branched or cyclic having 3 to 18 carbon atoms; as well as their optical isomers, and corresponding salts; said composition being in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, said aqueous phase representing from 40% to 55%, in particular from 420/0 to 52%, and preferably from 440/0 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. The compositions according to the invention are cosmetic compositions intended for make-up and / or care of the skin. The emulsions obtained have a good stability over time, a pleasant appearance, and during their application, properties of comfortable feeling. (1) "Stable emulsion" means an emulsion which, after 7 days of storage at room temperature (20-22 ° C), shows no macroscopic change in color, odor or viscosity.

Jasmonic Acid Derivatives The compositions of the invention comprise at least one jasmonic acid derivative compound of formula (1) as defined above. The compositions of the invention may comprise mixtures of compounds of formula (1). According to the present invention, the C 1 -C 5 "alkyl" radicals represent straight or branched chain saturated hydrocarbon radicals comprising from x to y carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 12, or from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. carbon (they can typically be represented by the formula CnH2n +, n representing the number of carbon atoms). Mention may in particular be made, when they are linear, the methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, octyl, nonyl and decyl radicals. When they are branched or substituted by one or more alkyl radicals, mention may be made especially of the isopropyl, tert-butyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 2-methylbutyl, 2-methylpentyl, 1-methylpentyl and 3-methylheptyl radicals. According to one embodiment, in the formula (1), R 3 is selected from the group consisting of H, methyl, ethyl, optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group, and propyl, optionally substituted with one or two hydroxyl groups (s) ( s). When R3 represents an alkyl group, it may be substituted by one or more hydroxyl group (s), the hydroxyl group (s) may be bound in the terminal position of the alkyl radical and / or in lateral position. For example, R3 may be -CH2-CH (OH) -CH3 or -CH2-CH2-CH2OH, or -CH2-CH (OH) -CH2OH. According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise a compound of formula (1), in which R 1 is chosen from the group consisting of: -OOOH, -COOCH 3, -COO-CH 2 -CH 3, -COO-CH 2 -CH (OH) -CH2OH, -000CH2-CH2-CH2OH and -COOCH2-CH (OH) -CH3. According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention may comprise a compound of formula (1) in which R 2 is a hydrocarbon radical, linear, saturated or unsaturated, having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms. In the formula (1), R 2 can represent a linear or branched alkyl radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or preferably from 2 to 7 carbon atoms.

According to one embodiment, in the formula (1), R2 is selected from the group consisting of pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl and heptyl radicals. According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise a compound of formula (1), wherein R, is -000H. A particular jasmonic acid derivative compound used in the compositions of the invention has the following formula (II): ## STR2 ## wherein R 2 represents a linear or branched alkyl group, comprising: from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or preferably from 2 to 7 carbon atoms. According to one embodiment, in formula (II), R2 is selected from the group consisting of pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl and heptyl. According to one particular embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise a compound of formula (1) chosen from 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentane acetic acid or the sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentane acid. acetic. The compounds of formula (1) may have one or more asymmetric carbon atoms. They can therefore exist as enantiomers or diastereoisomers. These enantiomers, diastereoisomers, as well as their mixtures, including the racemic mixtures, form part of the invention. The compounds of formula (1) may exist in the form of bases or addition salts with acids. Such addition salts are part of the invention. The salts of the compounds that may be used according to the invention are in particular chosen from alkali metal salts, for example sodium and potassium; alkaline earth metal salts, for example calcium, magnesium, strontium, metal salts, for example zinc, aluminum, manganese, copper; ammonium salts of formula NH4 +; quaternary ammonium salts; organic amine salts, such as, for example, the salts of methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2-hydroxyethylamine, bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amine, tri- (2- hydroxyethyl) amine; lysine salts, arginine. Salts chosen from among the sodium, potassium, magnesium, strontium, copper, manganese and zinc salts are preferably used. Preferably, the sodium salt is used.

According to a particular embodiment, in the compositions of the invention, the compound of formula (1) is carried in the aqueous phase and in a content ranging from 0.001% to 100/0, in particular from 0.10 / 0 to 80/0, and preferably from 0.50 / 0 to 50/0 by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Staining agent The coloring agent present in the compositions of the invention is chosen, for example, from the group consisting of pigments, dyes and interferential particles. According to one embodiment, the coloring agent is chosen from pigments. A cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention may advantageously incorporate at least one coloring agent chosen from organic or inorganic dyestuffs, in particular of the type of pigment or nacre which are conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, fat-soluble or water-soluble dyes, materials with specific optical effect and their mixtures. The term "pigments" is intended to mean white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting film. The pigments may be present in a proportion of from 0.10% to 400% by weight, in particular from 10% to 300% by weight, and in particular from 50% to 150% by weight, relative to to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. As inorganic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate. Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least titanium oxides and iron oxides. It may also be a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica. Such a pigment is marketed for example under the reference COVERLEAF NS or JS by CHEMICALS AND CATALYSTS and has a contrast ratio of about 30. The dyestuff may also comprise a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, type microspheres of silica containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is that marketed by MIYOSHI under the reference PC BALL PC-LL-100P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide. By "nacres", it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. The nacres may be present in a proportion of from 0.1% to 300% by weight, in particular from 0.50% to 200% by weight, and in particular from 1% to 150% by weight. relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The pearlescent agents can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, and titanium mica coated with oxide. chromium, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride. Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of TIMICA, FLAMENCO and DUOCHROME pearls (based on mica) marketed by the company ENGELHARD 20, TIMIRON pearls marketed by the company MERCK, nacres based on mica PRESTIGE marketed by the company. company ECKART and nacres based on synthetic mica SUNSHINE marketed by the company SUN CHEMICAL. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a reflection of yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper. As an illustration of nacres that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may in particular be made of gold-colored nacres, in particular, sold by the company Engelhard, under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres, in particular, sold by the company Merck under the names Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange 35 MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen, in particular, marketed by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); red-colored pearlescent agents, in particular, sold by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents, in particular, marketed by Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); nacres of red hue with gold glare, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); black nacres with gold reflection, sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue pearls, in particular, sold by MERCK under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), white nacres with silvery reflection, ls in particular, sold by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and orange-colored orange-green walnuts, in particular, sold by MERCK under the name Indian Summer (Xirona) and their mixtures. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes. Fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, [3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, Orange DC 5 and yellow quinoline. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice and caramel. The dyes may be present in an amount of from 0.001% to 50% by weight, in particular from 0.01% to 30% by weight, and in particular from 0.0250% to 1% by weight. relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect. This effect is different from a simple conventional hue effect, i.e. unified and stabilized as produced by conventional dyestuffs, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of effect of color variability with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature. For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic sheen, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and especially interferential fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect according to the invention. The particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from: - particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, - particles comprising an organic or inorganic substrate, monomatiere or multimaterial at least partially covered by at least one metal-reflecting layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and the mixtures of said particles. Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te. Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures thereof or alloys (e.g., bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals. The term "metal derivatives" denotes compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulphides. As an illustration of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those sold under the names STARBRITE 1200 EAC® 20 by the company SIBERLINE and METALURE® by the company ECKART. Mention may also be made of copper metal powders or mixtures of alloys, such as the references 2844 sold by the company Radium Bronze, metallic pigments, such as aluminum or bronze, such as those sold under the trade names ROTOSAFE 700 company ECKART, the silica-coated aluminum particles marketed under the name VISIONAIRE BRIGHT SILVER by ECKART and the metal alloy particles, such as bronze powder (copper and zinc alloy) coated with silica marketed under the name of Visionaire Bright Natural Gold from Eckart. It may also be particles comprising a glass substrate such as those marketed by the company NIPPON SHEET GLASS under the names MICROGLASS METASHINE. The goniochromatic coloring agent may be selected from, for example, interfering multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents.

Examples of symmetrical interferential multilayer structures that can be used in compositions produced in accordance with the invention are, for example, the following structures: Al / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Al, pigments having this structure being marketed by Du Pont de Nemours; Cr / MgF 2 / Al / MgF 2 / Cr, pigments having this structure being marketed under the name CHROMAFLAIR by the company FLEX; MoS2 / SiO2 / AI / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO21Fe2O3, and Fe2O3 / SiO21Fe2O3 / SiO21Fe2O3i pigments having these structures being marketed under the name SICOPEARL by the company BASF; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and T02 / Al2O3 / TiO2; SnO / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / SnO; Fe2O3 / SiO21Fe2O3; SnO / mica / TiO 2 / SiO 2 / TiO 2 / mica / SnO, pigments having these structures being sold under the name XIRONA by the company Merck (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments may be the pigments of silica / titania / tin oxide structure marketed under the trademark Xirona Magic by the company Merck, the silica / brown iron oxide structural pigments marketed under the name XIRONA INDIAN SUMMER by the company MERCK and the silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide structural pigments marketed under the name XIRONA CARRIBEAN BLUE by the company MERCK. Mention may also be made of the INFINITE COLORS pigments from SHISEIDO. Depending on the thickness and the nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the Fe.sub.2 O.sub.3 / SiO.sub.2 / Al.sub.2 / SiO.sub.2 / Fe.sub.2 O.sub.3 structure, grey-green to gray-red is passed for SiO.sub.2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for layers of SiO2 from 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO2 layers from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO2 layers from 430 to 440 nm. Mention may be made, by way of example of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure, those marketed by the company 3M under the name COLOR GLITTER. As liquid crystal goniochromatic particles, it is possible to use, for example, those sold by CHENIX, as well as those sold under the name HELICONE® HC by WACKER. These goniochromatic coloring agents may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 300% by weight, especially from 0.10% to 200% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Physiologically acceptable medium In addition to the compounds indicated above, a composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium. By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium that is particularly suitable for applying a composition of the invention to the skin or the lips. The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged. The compositions of the invention are in the form of an W / O emulsion containing a dispersed aqueous phase and a continuous oily phase.

Aqueous Phase The composition according to the invention comprises an amount of aqueous phase which varies from 40% to 550% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. When the aqueous phase level is less than 400/0, the emulsion is not stable and when the aqueous phase level is greater than 550/0 the application properties are degraded. The aqueous phase comprises water and any other water-soluble compound that may be present, such as in particular water-soluble solvents and additives. As water-soluble solvents, mention may be made in particular of alcohols containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, especially from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned are glycerol, butylene glycol and polyethylene glycols. The aqueous phase may also contain other additives such as water-soluble actives, preservatives, salts, gelling agents, fillers, water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers, water-soluble dyes, and the like.

Fatty phase A cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one liquid and / or solid fatty phase. In particular, a composition of the invention may comprise at least one liquid fatty phase, especially at least one oil as mentioned below. The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure. These oils may be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. According to one embodiment, the fatty phase of the compositions of the invention comprises at least one volatile oil and / or at least one non-volatile oil.

Volatile oils According to one embodiment, the fatty phase of the compositions of the invention comprises at least one volatile oil. The fatty phase of the compositions of the invention may comprise a mixture of several volatile oils. By "volatile oil" is meant any nonaqueous medium that can evaporate from the skin or lips in less than one hour at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg / cm 2 / min, inclusive. To measure this evaporation rate is introduced into a crystallizer, the diameter of 7 cm, placed on a scale located in a large chamber of about 0.3 m3 temperature-controlled, at a temperature of 25 ° C, and hygrometry, at a relative humidity of 50%, 15 g of oil or oil mixture to be tested. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, providing ventilation by a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) arranged in a vertical position above the crystallizer containing said oil or said mixture, the blades being directed to the crystallizer and at a distance of 20cm from the bottom of the crystallizer. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of evaporated oil per unit area (cm 2) and per time unit (minute). The volatile oils may be hydrocarbon, silicone or fluorinated. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom. The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms. The oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals. The volatile oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C8-C16 alkanes (also known as isoparaffins or isoalkanes), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4 , 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names ISOPARS® or PERMETHYLS®.

As hydrocarbon-based volatile oils, mention may also be made of linear C9-C17 alkanes, such as dodecane (C12) and tetradecane (C14), sold respectively under the references PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97 (Sasol) and as the alkanes obtained according to the process described in international application WO 2007/068371 A1, such as the mixture of undecane (C11) and tridecane (C13) marketed under the reference of CETIOL® UT (Cognis). Of the volatile hydrocarbon oils, isododecane and the mixture of undecane (C11) and tridecane (C13) are preferred. Volatile silicones can also be used as volatile oils, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those having a viscosity less than or equal to 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and having, in particular, from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxyl groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Volatile silicone oils which may be used in the invention include, in particular, dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, Hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. More particularly, as silicone volatile oil, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicone oils having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Preferred examples include decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane. Among the volatile silicone oils, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane is preferred. As the volatile fluorinated oil, there may be mentioned for example nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof. Non-volatile oils According to one embodiment, the fatty phase of the compositions of the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil. The fatty phase of the compositions of the invention may comprise a mixture of several non-volatile oils. s "Non-volatile oil" means an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly less than 0.01 mg / cm 2 / min. The non-volatile oils may in particular be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated oils and / or non-volatile silicone oils. Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include: - hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; - hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, or isostearate of physostearyl and ls glutamate of Iauroyl / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203), triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters and glycerol, in particular, whose fatty acids may have chain lengths varying from C4 at C36i and, in particular, from C13 to C36i, these oils being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils may, in particular, be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, bancoulier, passionflower, butter oil shea butter, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach almond oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, oil of hemp, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, l macadamia oil, corn oil, prairie pearl oil (`meadowfoam '), St. John's wort oil, mono'i oil, hazelnut oil, kernel oil Apricot, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, pomace oil kiwi, grapeseed oil, pistachio oil, pumpkin oil, pumpkin oil, rose hip oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, oil sunflower, castor oil, and watermelon seed oil, and mixtures thereof, or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS 35 or those sold under them. MIGLYOL 810®, 812® and 818® denominations by DYNAMIT NOBEL, - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, polyisobutene hydrogenated such as Parleam, squalane; synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula R, COOR 2, in which R represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, branched containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that the sum of the number of carbon atoms of the R 1 and R 2 chains is greater than or equal to 10. The esters may be, in particular, chosen from alcohol esters and fatty acid, for example: cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, stearate or isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates , and especially isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, diheptanoate, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol diethyl 2-hexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acid, such as isodecyl neopentanoate isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldocecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, isonridecyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; esters of polyols and esters of pentaerythritol, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate; esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7®, marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL and described in application US 2004-175338, - copolymers of diol dimer and diacid dimer and their esters, such as dimeric dilinoleyl diol / dimeric dilinoleic copolymers and their esters, such as for example Plandool-G, copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA, or dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer, branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol; C12-C22 eaters, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, - di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains may be the same or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name CETIOL CC®, by COGNIS, io-oils of high molar mass having, in particular, a molar mass ranging from about 400 to about 10 000 g / mol, in particular from about 650 to about 10 000 g / mol, in particular from about 750 to about 7500 g / mol, and more particularly from about 1000 to about 5000 g / mol. As oils of high molar mass which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of the oils chosen from: lipophilic polymers, linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, esters hydroxylated, aromatic esters, esters of fatty alcohols or of C24-C28 branched fatty acids, silicone oils, oils of vegetable origin, and mixtures thereof; Fluorinated oils which may be partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers or fluorinated silicones, as described in document EP-A-847,752; silicone oils, such as non-volatile, linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof.

Among the linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, paraffins oils or vaseline oil are preferably used. Among the hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, mention may preferably be made of vegetable oils, such as sweet almond oil, jojoba oil or macadamia oil. Synthetic oils, such as synthetic esters, include isodecyl neopentanoate or isononyl isononanoate, and among the synthetic ethers, dicapryl ether is preferably used. Of the non-volatile silicone oils, polydimethylsiloxanes, phenyltrimethicone or alkyldimethicones, such as cetyl dimethicone, are preferably used. According to one embodiment, the fatty phase of the compositions of the invention represents a percentage ranging from 15% to 70%, and preferably ranging from 20% to 50% relative to the total weight of the composition. Thickening agents Depending on the fluidity of the composition that it is desired to obtain, one or more thickening or gelling agents may advantageously be incorporated into a composition of the invention. A thickening or gelling agent suitable for the invention may be hydrophilic, i.e., soluble or dispersible in water. As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may in particular be made of water-soluble or water-dispersible thickening polymers. These may especially be chosen from: modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) by the company Goodrich; polyacrylates and polymethacrylates such as the products sold under the names Lubrajel and Norgel by the company GUARDIAN or under the name Hispagel by the company HISPANO CHIMICA; polyacrylamides; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, optionally cross-linked and / or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) sold by Clariant under the name "Hostacerin AMPS" "(CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide); crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, in the form of an W / O emulsion, such as those sold under the name SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name SIMULGEL 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, locust bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, chitin and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, gellanes, alginates, celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose and hydroxypropylcellulose; and their mixtures. A thickening or gelling agent that is suitable for the invention may be lipophilic. It can be mineral or organic. Examples of lipophilic thickening agents that may be mentioned are modified clays, such as modified magnesium silicate (RHEOX Bentone gel VS38), modified hectorites such as amide ammonium chloride modified with a C-fatty acid ammonium chloride. , o to C22, as the hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, that marketed under the name Bentone 38V® by the company ELEMENTIS or that ls marketed under the name "Bentone 38 CE "by the company RHEOX or that marketed under the name Bentone Gel V5 5V by the company ELEMENTIS. Polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes having a three-dimensional structure, such as those marketed under the names KSG6®, KSG16® and KSG18® by the company SHIN-ETSU, by Trefil E-505C®. and Trefil E-506C® by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC®, SR DMF10®, SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC gel®, SR DMF 10 gel® and SR DC 556 gel® by GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF 1204® and JK 113® by GENERAL 25 ELECTRIC; Ethylcellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel® by Dow Chemical; polycondensates of the polyamide type resulting from the condensation between a dicarboxylic acid comprising at least 32 carbon atoms and an alkylene diamine and in particular ethylenediamine, in which the polymer comprises at least one terminal carboxylic acid group esterified or amidated with minus one monoalcohol or mono-amine comprising from 12 to 30 linear and saturated carbon atoms, and in particular ethylene diamine / stearyl dilinoleate copolymers, such as that sold under the name Uniclear 100 VG® by the company ARIZONA CHEMICAL; galactomanans having from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per os, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated with C 1 -C 6 alkyl chains and in particular C 3 to C 3 and their mixtures. Block copolymers of the "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) type such as those marketed under the name Kraton® by Shell Chemical Co., or else of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those marketed by the company PENRECO company under the name Versagel® such as, for example, the mixture of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and ethylene / propylene / styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960). Among the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in a cosmetic composition of the invention, mention may also be made of dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® by the company CHIBA FLOUR, hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as hydrogenated castor oil, fatty alcohols, in particular C8 to C26i and more particularly C12 to C22 alcohols, for example, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or behenyl alcohol. According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise thickening agents with an active material content of from 0.01% to 40% by weight, especially from 0.10% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.30% to 150% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one lipophilic thickening agent, in particular at least one modified hectorite, such as a hectorite modified with a C 10 -C 22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, advantageously in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, in particular from 0.50% to 2% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of said composition.

Fillers A composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one filler, of organic or mineral nature, which makes it possible, in particular, to impart to it additional properties of dullness, coverage, strength and / or improved stability. The filler content may range from 0.10% to 20% by weight, especially from 10% to 120% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

By "charge" is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, they make it possible to impart body or stiffness to the composition and / or softness, and to uniformity in makeup. The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber or any other intermediate form between these defined forms. The fillers according to the invention may or may not be superficially coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance which promotes dispersion and compatibility of the filler. the composition. Examples of mineral fillers that may be mentioned include talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, microcapsules of glass or ceramic, composites of silica and titanium dioxide, like the TSG series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass. Examples of organic fillers that may be mentioned are polyamide powders (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), polyethylene, poly (methyl methacrylate), polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) powders, copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrap Dow Corning Company), lauroyl lysine, polymeric hollow microspheres such as polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel (Nobel Industry), hexamethylene diisocyanate / Trimethylol hexyllactone copolymer powder (Toshiki Plastic Powder), silicone resin microspheres (Toshiba Tospearl, for example) synthetic or natural micronized waxes, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, especially silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in US Pat. No. 5,538,793, polyurethane powders, in particular cross-linked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyllactone. In particular, it may be a hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone polymer. Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example, under the name PLASTIC POWDER D-4000 or PLASTIC POWDER D-8000 from TOSHIKI, and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin. The presence of this filler also makes it possible to thicken and / or gel the composition of the invention. The crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder (s) coated with silicone resin may be present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 120% by weight, advantageously from 20/0 to 100% by weight. By weight and preferably 70/0 to 90/0 by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Mention may in particular be made of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in US Pat. No. 5,538,793. Such elastomer powders are sold under the names KSP-100®. KSP-101®, KSP-102®, KSP-103®, KSP-104® and KSP-105® by SHIN ETSU; mention may also be made of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin such as hybrid silicone powders functionalized with fluoroalkyl groups, especially sold under the name "KSP-200" by the company Shin Etsu; or hybrid silicone powders functionalized with phenyl groups, especially sold under the name "KSP-300" by the company Shin Etsu.

Emulsifier The composition of the invention may also comprise one or more emulsifiers. Examples of emulsifiers that may be mentioned include polyhydroxy fatty acid ester and polyoxyalkylene glycol ester emulsifiers. Preferably, the polyhydroxy fatty acid ester and polyoxyalkylene glycol ester is a fatty acid ester of polyethylene glycol. The fatty acid and polyoxyalkylene glycol ester may be a monoester or a polyester, especially a di or triester. The fatty acid may comprise from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 18 carbon atoms. It may be chosen in particular from oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and mixtures thereof. The polyethylene glycol may comprise from 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide, and more preferably from 20 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide.

According to one embodiment, an ester, preferably a diester, of polyethylene glycol comprising from 20 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and polyhydroxy fatty acid, said polyhydroxy fatty acid comprising from 14 to 18 carbon atoms is used. , in particular polyhydroxystearic acid. In particular, the fatty acid and polyoxyalkylene glycol ester is in the form of a block polymer, preferably of ABA structure, comprising poly (hydroxylated ester) blocks and polyethylene glycol blocks. The fatty acid ester of said polymer has a chain comprising from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 14 to 18 carbon atoms. The polyethylene glycol blocks of said emulsifying polymer as defined above preferably comprise from 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide, and more preferably from 20 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide. A compound which is particularly suitable for producing the compositions of the invention is the 30E polyethylene glycol dihydroxystearate sold under the trade name "Cithrol DPHS-SO- (MV)" by the company Croda. The fatty acid and polyoxyalkylene glycol ester is generally present in the compositions according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.1% to 150% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.50 / 0 to 100/0 by weight, and more preferably from 10/0 to 50/0 by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the emulsifier polyhydroxy fatty acid ester and polyoxyalkylene glycol, an additional emulsifier (or surfactant), also said coemulsifier. This co-emulsifier does not by itself, in the absence of polyhydroxy fatty acid ester and polyoxyalkylene glycol, stabilize the composition according to the invention. The additional emulsifier can be chosen, for example, from non-emulsifiers. ionic fatty acid and polyol derivatives, succinic terminated polyolefins, and mixtures thereof. Examples of succinically terminated polyolefins are esterified succinic polyisobutylenes and their salts, especially diethanolamine salts, such as the products sold under the names Lubrizol 2724, Lubrizol 2722 and Lubrizol 5603 by the company Lubrizol. Preferably, the additional emulsifier is selected from fatty acid esters and polyols.

The term "fatty acid esters and polyols" according to the invention is understood to mean fatty acid and polyol esters in which the fatty acid comprises a C 6 -C 22, preferably C 16 -C 20, alkyl chain, and the polyol is selected from glycerol, a polyglycerol, sorbitan, and mixtures thereof. The fatty acid can also be in a polymeric form, as is the case of polyhydroxystearic acid (polymer 12-hydroxystearic acid). In a particular embodiment, the fatty acid and polyol ester is a C 16 -C 20 fatty acid ester and glycerol and / or sorbitan, and mixtures thereof. Examples of C16-C20 linear or branched chain fatty acids include stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid. An example of a C 16 -C 20 fatty acid polymer is polyl 2-hydroxystearic acid. Preferably, stearic acid, isostearic acid, poly-12-hydroxystearic acid and mixtures thereof are used. By polyglycerols is meant compounds of formula 20 in which the degree of condensation n ranges from 1 to 11, preferably from 2 to 6 and even more preferably from 3 to 6. According to a particular embodiment, the acid ester fatty acid and polyol contains 2 to 1 moles (units) of polyols, preferably 2 to 4 moles of polyols, in particular 2 to 4 units of glycerol or a mixture of polyglycerols (glycerol, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, oligoglycerols). Even more preferentially, the fatty acid and polyol ester contains 4 moles (or units) of polyol, in particular 4 moles (or units) of glycerol. According to a preferred embodiment, said fatty acid and polyol ester is, in addition, a fatty acid ester of a dicarboxylic acid having from 2 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, such as azelaic acid, sebacic acid, dodecanedioic acid, and preferably sebacic acid (C10), and polyol. Examples of fatty acid esters and polyols that may be used in the composition of the invention include esters of isostearic acid and glycerol and / or sorbitan, such as for example the polyglycerolated isostearate (4 moles) (INCI name: "st # è lr3 Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate) sold under the name Isolan G134® by the company Goldschmidt, the polyglycerolated diisostearate; (3 moles) sold under the name Lameform TGI® by the company Cognis, the polyglycerolated distearate (2 moles) sold under the name Emalex PGSA® by the company Nihon Emulsion, and the polyglycerol monoisostearate (10 moles) sold under the name Nikkol Decaglyn. 1-IS by the company Nihon Surfactant (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-10 isostearate), the polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate polyhydroxystearate sebacate sold under the name ISOLAN GPS by Goldschmidt, the mixture of isos sorbitan tetarate and glycerol isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, the mixture of isostearate of sorbitan and polyglycerol isostearate (3 moles) marketed under the name Arlacel 1690 by the company Uniquema, the mixture of sorbitan isostearate and polyglycerol isostearate (3 moles) sold under the name Arlacel 1690® by the company Uniquema and their mixtures. Mention may also be made of silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name "DC 5225 C" by Dow Corning, and Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by Dow Corning and Cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90n by Goldschmidt. Preferably, the additional emulsifier is chosen from fatty acid esters, preferably C16-C20, in particular stearic acid or isostearic acid, and polyol chosen from glycerol and / or sorbitan. The additional emulsifier may be present in a content (dry matter content) ranging from 0.05 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 20/0, preferably less than 10/0, better less than 0.50 / 0 additional emulsifier, it can be in particular free of emulsifier additional. The composition of the invention may also comprise at least one silicone emulsifier. The compositions in accordance with the invention comprise a silicone emulsifier (or surfactant) chosen from oxyethylenated and oxypropylene polydimethylsiloxanes also known as dimethicone copolyols, and oxyethylenated and oxypropylene alkylpolydimethylsiloxanes (also known as alkyldimethicone copolyols) whose alkyl chain comprises less than 12 carbon atoms. , and their mixtures. Preferably, the silicone surfactant comprises polyoxyethylene and polyoxypropylene chains grafted onto the main chain (polyoxyethylene and polyoxypropylene side or pendant chains). The (alkyl) polydimethylsiloxanes used in the emulsion according to the invention advantageously have polyoxyethylene and polyoxypropylene side chains of the following formula: - (CXH2X) - (OC2H4) - (OC3H6) b-OR10 in which - Rio represents an atom of hydrogen, a linear or branched alkyl radical having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably a hydrogen atom, a varies from 1 to 100, preferably from 2 to 50 and more preferably from 10 to 30, b varies from 1 to 100, preferably from 2 to 50, and better still from 10 to 30, x varies from 1 to 5. The number-average molecular weight of the silicone emulsifier is in general ls greater than or equal to 15,000. , preferably greater than or equal to 30000, which may range from 40000 to 100000, in particular from 50000 to 100000. By way of example of a silicone compound belonging to this family, mention may be made of oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated poly (ethylene oxide) (EO / OP 18 / 18) whose INCI name is PEG / PPG 18/18 dim ethicone, sold in admixture with a polydimethylsiloxane under the trade reference X-22-6711D by Shin Etsu or under the name ES-5226 DM by Dow Corning (INCI name: Dimethicone / PEG / PPG-18/18 Dimethicone ). The silicone emulsifier is generally present in the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 150% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.50% to 100/0 by weight, and better still from 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additives A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field concerned, for example chosen from gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, gums, resins, agents and the like. dispersants, semi-crystalline polymers, lipophilic structuring agents, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, UV filters, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen protectors, and mixtures thereof. It is routine for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the additives present in the compositions according to the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties and stability properties of those they are not affected. UV Filters The composition of the invention may also comprise at least one UV filter. By way of illustration of the UV filters, and in a nonlimiting manner, mention may be made of the following families: anthranilates, in particular menthyl anthranilate; benzophenones, in particular benzophenone-1, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12, and preferentially benzophenone-2 (oxybenzone), or Benzophenone-4 (Uvinul MS400 available from BASF); benzylidenecamphers, in particular 3-benzylidene camphor, benzylidenecamphosulfonic acid, camphor benzalkonium methosulphate, polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene di-camphorsulfonic acid, and preferentially 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Eusolex 6300 ® available from Merck); benzimidazoles, in particular benzimidazilate (Neo Heliopan AP® available from Haarmann and Reimer), or phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Eusolex 232® available from Merck); benzotriazoles, in particular trisiloxane drometzol, or methylene bisbenzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M® available from Ciba); cinnamates, in particular cinoxate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methylcinnamate, dimethoxycinnamate glyceryl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamyl cinnamate, and preferably ethocrylene (Uvinul N350 available from BASF), octyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX® available from Hoffmann La Roche), or octocrylene (Uvinul 539® available from BASF); dibenzoylmethanes, especially butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789®); imidazolines, in particular ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline; PABAs, in particular ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyldimethyl PABA, glyceryl PABA, PABA, PEG-25 PABA, and preferentially diethylhexylbutamidotriazone (Uvasorb HEB® available from 3V Sigma), ethylhexyltriazone 35 (Uvinul T1500 available from BASF), or ethyl PABA (benzocaine); Mexoryl®; salicylates, especially dipropylene glycol salicyclate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, or TEA salicylate; triazines, in particular anisotriazine (Tinosorb S® available from Ciba); trisiloxane drometrizole, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide coated or uncoated. Preferably, cinnamates, salicylates and mixtures thereof, or titanium dioxide are used. According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a UV filter chosen from cinnamates. In a particular embodiment, octyl methoxycinnamate, otherwise known as ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate, is used. The amount of filters depends on the desired end use. It may range, for example, from 1 to 20% by weight and better still from 2 to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, a cosmetic composition of the invention may be in the form of a liquid or fluid foundation, a hot-cast foundation product, a body make-up product, a concealer or a eyeshadow, a makeup base. A care composition according to the invention can be in particular a solar composition, a care cream, a serum or a deodorant. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a fluid foundation. The composition according to the invention can be applied by any means allowing a uniform distribution and in particular with the finger, or with the aid of a cotton, a rod, a brush, a gauze, a spatula or buffer, or by spraying, and can be removed by rinsing with water or a mild detergent. The composition according to the invention may be used for the purpose of improving the general condition of an epidermis, in particular of the skin, and in particular for maintaining or restoring its physiological functions and / or its aesthetic appearance. Thus, the composition according to the invention may advantageously be used in order to fight against the aging of the epidermis, maintain and / or stimulate hydration and / or fight against drying of the skin, improve the tone of the skin. skin, maintain or restore the suppleness and elasticity of the skin, improve the mineralization of the epidermis, improve the vitality of the epidermis, facilitate inter-cellular exchanges, and fight against chapped and cracked appearance of the skin.

A composition according to the invention may be intended for a cosmetic and / or dermatological application. The present invention also relates to the cosmetic use, in particular non-therapeutic, in a cosmetic composition for the make-up and / or care of the skin, of at least one coloring agent and at least one acid derivative compound. jasmonic of formula (1) as defined above, said composition being in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, said aqueous phase representing from 40% to 550/0 in weight relative to the total weight Io said composition, to prevent skin aging. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method comprising applying to the skin a composition as defined above. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method of makeup and / or care of the skin comprising a step of applying to the skin at least one layer of a composition as defined above. The present invention also relates to a process for making up the skin in which a composition as defined above is applied. 20 EXAMPLES

Definition of stability For the purposes of the present invention, the term "stable emulsion" means an emulsion which after 7 days of storage at ambient temperature (20-22 ° C.) shows no macroscopic change. The stabilities are carried out on 300 g of product packaged in a 660 ml jar which is hermetically sealed by an aluminum lid.

A - Influence of the aqueous phase rate on the stability

Examples of fluid foundations 1 to 7 show that when the aqueous phase level is less than 40%, the stability of the foundation is insufficient. EXAMPLES 1-7% by weight Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone sold under the reference ABIL EM 90 by the company Goldschmidt 3.00 Isostearate of polyglycerol 4 sold under the reference ISOLAN GI 34 by the company Goldschmidt Al Dimethicone + PEG / PPG / -18 / 18 dimethicone sold under the reference X-22-6711D by 1.07 the company Shin Etsu Ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate 7.50 Phenyltrimethicone sold under the reference DC 556 by the company Dow Corning Q Dimethicone 2cSt R Cyclohexasiloxane S A2 Bismuth oxychloride 2.00 Dimethicone 2cSt 6.00 A3 Microspheres (vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile / methyl methacrylate copolymer) expanded with isobutane sold under the reference Expancel 551 DE 40 0.20 D42 by the company Akzo Nobel A4 Synthetic Mica (fluorophlogopite) 1.44 Cyclohexasiloxane 6.00 Yellow Iron Oxide Coated with Aluminum Stearoyl Glutamate 2.03 A5 Red Iron Oxide Coated with Aluminum Stearoyl Glutamate 0.58 Black Iron Oxide Coated with Stearoyl Aluminum glutamate 0.17 Titanium dioxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 10.22 B Demineralized water T Butylene glycol U 1,3- Propanediol V Phenoxyethanol W Magnesium sulphate X Sorbitol Y 28 Sodium salt of the acid 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acetic acid in a mixture of 6.20 water / dipropylene glycol (32/48/20) C Ethanol ZD Perfume 0.05 TOTAL 100% Operating mode

The constituents of the Al phase are weighed into the main beaker and then homogenized with a Moritz stirrer at a speed of 1200-1400 rpm at room temperature. Phase A2 is then added, then phase A3 which has been prepared beforehand by manual pasting, and finally phase A4, while stirring for 15 minutes until homogenization. Phase A5 is prepared separately by grinding three times with the three-cylinder, the mixture of pigments and cyclohexasiloxane. Phase A5 was added to the main beaker by gradually increasing the stirring speed of the Moritz to 1400-1500 rpm, and the stirring was then maintained for 20 minutes. The constituents of phase B are weighed separately with the exception of the derivative of jasmonic acid and phenoxyethanol. The mixture is homogenized using a magnetic stirrer at a temperature of about 30-35 ° C., and then the jasmonic acid derivative and phenoxyethanol are incorporated. The emulsification is then carried out by pouring phase B into the main beaker and gradually increasing the stirring speed to 4000 rpm, which is then maintained for 10 minutes. Then the stirring rate is slightly reduced and ethanol and perfume are added. The whole is stirred for two minutes and the product is packed in a glass jar. 30 Stability Results Ex.1 Ex.2 Ex.3 Ex.4 Ex.5 Ex.6 Ex.7 (Invention) (Invention) (Invention) (Excluding (Excluding (Invention) invention) invention) invention) Q 8.00 8.92 10.01 10.74 11.47 12.56 14.09 R 2.00 2.92 4.01 4.74 5.47 6.56 8.09 S 0 0.69 1 , 52 2.06 2.61 3.42 4.57 T 25.64 24.11 22.30 21.10 19.89 18.08 15.56 U 5.00 4.00 4.35 4.11 3 , 88 3.53 3.03 V 5.00 4.70 4.35 4.11 3.88 3.53 3.03 W 0.70 0.67 0.61 0.58 0.54 0.49 0 , 42 X 0.70 0.66 0.61 0.58 0.54 0.49 0.42 Y 0.50 0.47 0.43 0.41 0.38 0.35 0.30 Z 5.00 4.70 4.35 4.18 3.88 3.53 3.03 Total phase 46.76 44.23 41.22 39.22 37.21 34.22 30.01 aqueous T + U + V + W + X + Y + Z + 4.22% solvent of the active Stability Emulsion Emulsion Emulsion Emulsion Emulsion Emulsion Emulsion (7 days) homogeneous and homogeneous and stable. unstable. unstable. unstable. unstable. stable. stable. Surface non Sedimentation Sedimentatio Homogeneous sedimentation: and separation n and and separation presence of phase. phase separation. phase spots. oily. These results show that the composition is stable when the percentage of aqueous phase is greater than 40%.

B - Influence of the aqueous phase rate on the cosmetic properties

Comparison of examples of fluid foundations 1 and 8 show that when the aqueous phase level is greater than 55%, the cosmetic properties of the foundation are less good. Ex. 1 Ex. 8 (Except (Invention) invention)% by mass% cetique PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone sold under the reference ABIL EM 90 by the company 3.00 3.00 Goldschmidt Isostearate polyglycerol 4 sold under the ISOLAN reference GI 34 by 1.00 1.00 Goldschmidt Dimethicone + PEG / PPG / -18 / 18 dimethicone sold under the reference X-22-6711D by Al Shin Etsu company 1.07 1.07 Ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate 7 , 50 7.50 Phenyltrimethicone sold under the reference DC 556 by the company Dow Corning 8.00 - Dimethicone 2cSt 2.00 - A2 Bismuth oxychloride 2.00 2.00 30 Dimethicone 2cSt 6.00 6.00 A3 Microspheres (copolymer vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile / methyl methacrylate) expanded with isobutane sold under the reference Expancel 551 DE 40 0.20 0.20 D42 by Akzo Nobel A4 Synthetic Mica (fluorphlogopite) 1.44 1.44 Cyclohexasiloxane 6 , 00 6.00 Yellow iron oxide coated with stearoyl aluminum glutamate 2.03 2.03 A5 Red iron oxide red ob stearoyl aluminum glutamate 0.58 0.58 Black iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 0.17 0.17 Titanium dioxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 10.22 10.22 Demineralized water 25, 64 28.67 Butylene glycol 5.00 7.06 1,3- Propanediol 5.00 7.06 B Phenoxyethanol 0.70 0.99 Magnesium sulphate 0.70 0.99 Sorbitol 0.50 0.71 Sodium salt 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acetic acid in a mixture 6.20 6.20 water / dipropylene glycol (32/48/20) C Ethanol 5.00 7.06 D Perfume 0.05 0.05 TOTAL 100% 100% Total aqueous phase 46.76% 56.76% Procedure of Example 8

The constituents of the Al phase are weighed into the main beaker and then homogenized with a Moritz stirrer at a speed of 1500 rpm at room temperature. Phase A2 is then added, then phase A3, which has been prepared beforehand by manual pasting, and finally phase A4, while stirring for 15 minutes until homogenization. Phase A5 is prepared separately by grinding three times with the three-cylinder, the mixture of pigments and cyclohexasiloxane. The A5 phase is added to the main beaker by gradually increasing the stirring speed of the Moritz up to 1600 rpm, and stirring is then maintained for 20 minutes. The components of phase B were weighed separately with the exception of the derivative of jasmonic acid and phenoxyethanol. The mixture is homogenized using a magnetic stirrer at a temperature of about 30-35 ° C., and then the jasmonic acid derivative and phenoxyethanol are incorporated. The emulsification is then carried out by pouring phase B into the main beaker and gradually increasing the stirring speed to 4000 rpm which is then maintained for 10 minutes.

Then the stirring rate is slightly reduced and ethanol and perfume are added. The whole is stirred for two minutes and the product is packaged in a glass jar.

s Sensory evaluation

We asked a panel of four women, aged between 20 and 50, to make up both faces by half-face. This evaluation shows that the foundation of Example 1 (invention) is more easily applied, more slippery and more comfortable. The foundation of Example 8 (excluding the invention) gives a more powdered make-up result which tends to increase the visibility of the relief imperfections (pores, wrinkles). After application, it leads to a softer film, and more tacky. In the end the women of the panel prefer the foundation of Example 1 (invention). 15 20

Claims (15)

REVENDICATIONS1. A composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium containing: at least one coloring agent; and at least one jasmonic acid derivative compound of the following formula (1): embedded image in which: R, represents a radical COOR3i R3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups; . R2 represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or branched or cyclic having 3 to 18 carbon atoms; as well as their optical isomers, and corresponding salts; said composition being in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, said aqueous phase representing from 40% to 55%, in particular from 420/0 to 52%, and preferably from 440/0 to 50% by weight based on the total weight of said composition. 2. A composition according to claim 1, wherein in formula (1), R is selected from the group consisting of -000H, -COOCH3i -COO-CH2-CH3, -COO-CH2-CH (OH) -CH2OH, -COOCH2-CH2-CH2OH and -COOCH2-CH (OH) -CH3. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein, in the formula (1), R2 is a hydrocarbon radical, linear, saturated or unsaturated, having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms. 35 20 4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein, in the formula (1), R, is -0OOH. 5. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 wherein in formula (1) R2 is selected from the group consisting of pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl and heptyl. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the compound of formula (1) is 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentane-acetic acid or the sodium salt of 3-hydroxyacid. -2-pentylcyclopentane acetic acid. 7. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the compound of formula (1) is carried in the aqueous phase and in a content ranging from 0.001% to 10%, in particular 0.10%. 0 to 8%, and preferably from 0.50% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the coloring agent is selected from the group consisting of pigments, dyes, and interference particles. The composition of claim 8, wherein the coloring agent is selected from pigments. 10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the aqueous phase comprises water, optionally mixed with solvents and / or water-soluble additives. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the aqueous phase comprises additives selected from the group consisting of water-soluble actives, preservatives, salts, gelling agents, fillers, water-soluble or water-soluble polymers, and their mixtures. 12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, comprising at least one UV filter, said UV filter is preferably selected from cinnamates, and preferably being ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate. s 13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, in the form of a fluid foundation. 14. Cosmetic use, in a cosmetic composition for the makeup and / or care of the skin, of at least one coloring agent and at least one jasmonic acid derivative compound of formula (1) below: OH R2 RI (1) in which: R 3 represents a radical COR 3 R 3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups; . R2 represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or branched or cyclic having 3 to 18 carbon atoms; as well as their optical isomers, and corresponding salts; Said composition being in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, said aqueous phase representing from 40% to 550/0 by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, to prevent skin aging. 2s 15. Non-therapeutic method of makeup and / or care of the skin comprising a step of applying to the skin at least one layer of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13.