WO2015091380A1

WO2015091380A1 - Two-phase composition comprising a cucurbic acid derivative

Info

Publication number: WO2015091380A1
Application number: PCT/EP2014/077802
Authority: WO
Inventors: Sonia EYRAUD; Alice LAURENT
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2013-12-19
Filing date: 2014-12-15
Publication date: 2015-06-25
Also published as: FR3015235A1; FR3015235B1

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition for topical application, comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase that are distinct, and a cucurbic acid derivative, the weight ratio between the aqueous phase and the oily phase preferably ranging from 10/90 to 90/10. The presence of the cucurbic acid derivative makes it possible to obtain good phase separation of the two phases after shaking, and to avoid the formation of foam in the oily phase during shaking. The invention also relates to use of this composition in the cosmetic field, especially for removing makeup from, cleansing and/or caring for the skin, the lips and/or the eyes, or for haircare.

Description

Two-phase composition comprising a cucurbic acid derivative

The present invention relates to a composition for topical application, consisting of two separate phases, an aqueous phase and an oily phase, which emulsify readily by shaking and which undergo rapid phase separation after the shaking is stopped. The present invention also relates to the use of the said composition in cosmetics or dermatology, and especially for removing makeup from, cleansing and/or caring for the skin, both bodily and facial skin, and in particular the lips and/or the eyes, and/or for haircare.

Compositions of this type consisting of two separate phases, especially an aqueous phase and an oily phase which are separate and not emulsified one in the other at rest, are generally referred to as "two-phase compositions". They differ from emulsions in that, when at rest, the two phases are separate instead of being emulsified one in the other. Thus, the two phases are separated at rest by a single interface, whereas, in emulsions, one of the phases is dispersed in the other in the form of a multitude of droplets, and the interfaces are therefore manifold, and these interfaces may be stabilized with emulsifying surfactants and/or emulsifying polymers. The use of two-phase compositions necessitates prior shaking in order to form an extemporaneous emulsion. This emulsion must be of sufficient quality and stability to enable homogeneous application of the two phases, but such that, when at rest, the two phases separate and regain their initial state, this phenomenon being more commonly known as "phase separation".

Two-phase compositions have already been described, for example in documents EP 0 370 856 and EP 0 603 080, especially for removing eye makeup.

Most two-phase systems undergo excessively rapid phase separation that does not afford a homogeneous composition on use. However, obtaining phase separation within a reasonable time is desirable for various reasons, especially since poor separation of the two phases is perceived by users as being unaesthetic. Documents EP 0 603 080 and EP 1 514 534 describe the use of alkyldimethylbenzylammonium or sodium bicarbonate as a phase-separation agent, for obtaining rapid phase separation. However, it has proven to be difficult to find phase-separation agents that can afford good phase separation without the formation of foam taking place in the oily phase of the two-phase mixture during shaking. This formation of foam is prohibitive to users.

There is thus still a need for a two-phase composition consisting of two immiscible, visually distinct phases, which, after shaking and extemporaneous and transient formation of the emulsion, can undergo phase separation into two phases with a very sharp interface, without formation of foam. Surprisingly, the Applicant has found that the use of a cucurbic acid derivative made it possible to obtain a two-phase composition having the desired qualities, i.e. which separates into two clear phases after use, without any formation of foam taking place in the oily phase during shaking. Thus, the presence of the cucurbic acid derivative makes it possible to obtain good phase separation of the two phases after shaking, while at the same time avoiding the formation of foam in the oily phase during shaking, and without the appearance of droplets that remain attached to the walls of the transparent container. In addition, this compound has the advantage of affording anti-ageing properties.

In addition, the composition according to the invention is pleasant to apply to keratin materials, especially to the skin. There is no sensation of tackiness.

More particularly, one subject of the invention is a composition for topical application, comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase that are visually distinct and superposed and at least one cucurbic acid compound especially of formula (I) below:

in which:

Ri represents a radical COOR₃, R3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups;

R₂ represents a saturated or unsaturated linear hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a saturated or unsaturated branched or cyclic hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 3 to 18 carbon atoms;

and also the optical isomers thereof, and the corresponding salts.

In the text hereinbelow, the expression "at least one" is equivalent to "one or more" and, unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range.

Since the composition according to the invention is intended for topical application, it contains a physiologically acceptable medium, i.e. a medium that is compatible with the skin, mucous membranes, the hair and the scalp. The composition according to the invention comprises at least an aqueous phase and an oily phase that are visually distinct. These two phases are distinct, i.e. they are visible one on top of the other at rest. The two phases may or may not be coloured.

The duration of the phase separation may range from 3 to 30 minutes, better still from 5 to 25 minutes and preferably from 10 to 20 minutes.

Cucurbic acid compound

The cucurbic acid-based compound is a compound chosen from those corresponding to formula (I) below:

in which:

Ri represents a radical COOR₃, R3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a C₁-C4 alkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups;

and also the optical isomers thereof, and corresponding salts. Preferably, Ri denotes a radical chosen from -COOH, -COOMe, -COO-CH₂-CH₃, -COO- CH₂-CH(OH)-CH₂OH, -COOCH₂-CH₂-CH₂OH and -COOCH₂-CH(OH)-CH_3. Preferentially, Ri denotes a radical -COOH.

Preferentially, R₂ denotes a saturated or unsaturated linear hydrocarbon-based radical, preferably containing from 2 to 7 carbon atoms. In particular, R₂ may be a pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl or heptyl radical.

According to one embodiment, the compound of formula (I) is chosen from 3-hydroxy-2- [(2Z)-2-pentenyl]cyclopentaneacetic acid and 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentaneacetic acid and/or salts thereof. Preferably, compound (I) is 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentaneacetic acid and/or salts thereof; especially a sodium salt. The salts of the compounds that may be used according to the invention are chosen in particular from salts of alkali metals, for example sodium or potassium; salts of alkaline- earth metal, for example calcium, magnesium or strontium, metal salts, for example zinc, aluminium, manganese or copper; ammonium salts of formula NH₄ ⁺; quaternary ammonium salts; salts of organic amines, for instance salts of methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2-hydroxyethylamine, bis(2- hydroxyethyl)amine or tris(2-hydroxyethyl)amine; lysine or arginine salts. Salts chosen from sodium, potassium, magnesium, strontium, copper, manganese and zinc salts are preferably used. The sodium salt is preferentially used.

The cucurbic acid-based compound of formula (I) defined previously may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 10% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is possible to add, in addition to the cucurbic acid derivative, a salt, for instance sodium chloride, which is especially used as an adjuvant in compositions for removing makeup from the eyes in order for the composition to have an osmotic pressure close to that of tears. The amount of salt(s) other than the cucurbic acid derivative may range, for example, from 0 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 2% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 1 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio between the aqueous phase and the oily phase ranges from 10/90 to 90/10, preferably from 25/75 to 90/10, even more preferentially from 30/70 to 80/20 and better still from 40/60 to 70/30. Thus, the aqueous phase generally represents from 10% to 90% by weight, preferably from 25% to 90% by weight, even more preferentially from 30% to 80% by weight and better still from 40% to &Q70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This weight ratio is adjusted according to the desired cosmeticity and so that the composition has a freezing point of less than 4°C.

The aqueous (or hydrophilic) phase of the composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water. The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, camomile water or lime blossom water, and/or a natural spring water or mineral water, for instance: Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, Enghien-les-Bains water, Saint Gervais-les-Bains water, Neris-les-Bains water, Allevar-les-Bains water, Digne water, Maizieres water, Neyrac-les-Bains water, Lons-le-Saunier water, Eaux Bonnes water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water, Tercis-les-bains water and Avene water. The aqueous phase may also comprise reconstituted spring water, i.e. a water containing trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of a spring water.

The aqueous (or hydrophilic) phase of the composition according to the invention may also contain any water-soluble or water-dispersible additive. Water-soluble additives that may especially be mentioned are polyols. The term "polyols" should be understood as meaning any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. Examples of polyols that may be mentioned include glycerol, glycols, for instance butylene glycol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, polypropylene glycol, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose, xylitol, trehalose, xylose, mannose or rhamnose, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyol(s) are chosen from glycerol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, propanediol, dipropylene glycol and hexylene glycol. More preferentially, the polyol is glycerol. The polyols may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 60% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 50% by weight, better still from 2% to 30% by weight and even better still from 3% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Water-soluble additives that may also be mentioned include primary alcohols, i.e. an alcohol comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol. It is preferably ethanol. This alcohol may be present in an amount that is, for example, less than or equal to 40% by weight and preferably ranging from 0.1 % to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The addition of such an alcohol may especially be suitable when the composition according to the invention is used as a product for the body or the hair.

The oily phase generally represents from 10% to 90% by weight, preferably from 20% to 75% by weight, even more preferentially from 30% to 70% by weight and better still from 40% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The oily phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more oils, which may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based, mineral, plant and synthetic oils, or alternatively silicone oils. It may also comprise liposoluble or lipodispersible additives.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially from, or even consisting of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and containing no silicon or fluorine atoms; it may contain ester, ether, amine or amide groups.

As hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include:

- synthetic esters and ethers, especially of fatty acids, for instance the oils of formulae R¹COOR² and R¹OR² in which R¹ represents a fatty acid residue containing from 8 to

29 carbon atoms and R² represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2- octyldodecyl erucate or isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, and fatty alkyl heptanoates, octanoates and decanoates; polyol esters, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, for instance pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;

- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as perhydrosqualene, liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, maize oil, soybean oil, marrow oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, almond oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, coriander oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, meadowfoam oil and argan oil;

- volatile or non-volatile, linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, and derivatives thereof, such as liquid petroleum jelly and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® oil; C₈-Ci₆ branched alkanes or isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, for instance the isoparaffins sold under the trade name Isopar by the company Exxon Chemical or the oils sold under the trade name Permethyl by the company Presperse; and mixtures thereof;

- linear alkanes, especially of plant origin, preferably comprising from 7 to 14 carbon atoms;

- fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol.

The term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and especially containing Si-0 groups. The silicone oil(s) may be volatile or non-volatile.

The term "volatile" refers to a compound that can evaporate on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at room temperature, especially having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10^"3 to 300 mmHg), preferably ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

Examples of volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: cyclomethicone), such as cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, octylmethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane; linear silicones such as heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

Preferably, the volatile silicone oil is chosen from cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane.

Non-volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include silicone oils such as polymethylsiloxanes, especially PDMS, and phenyl polymethylsiloxanes such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl siloxysilicates and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the oil(s) are chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils. According to a preferential embodiment, the oil(s) are chosen from fatty acid esters such as isopropyl palmitate and isononyl isononanoate, fatty alcohol ethers, plant oils, mineral oils such as liquid petroleum jelly, fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and liquid fatty acid triglycerides. Preferably, the oil(s) are chosen from fatty acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, plant oils and liquid fatty acid triglycerides. The oils may optionally consist solely of volatile oils.

The two-phase composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more surfactants in one or the other of the phases, especially when it is used as a makeup-removing or cleansing composition, since the presence of a surfactant makes it possible both to obtain good makeup removal for makeup compositions and especially mascaras, and also to be free of a greasy sensation during the makeup removal. However, the composition of the invention may also be free of surfactant, and, if it contains any, the amount of surfactant should be such that the composition remains at rest in the form of two separate phases and not in the form of an emulsion. When the composition of the invention contains a surfactant, it may be of the anionic, nonionic or amphoteric type, but it is preferably of the nonionic type, and it is preferably present in the aqueous phase of the composition. The amount of surfactant(s) as active material may range, for example, from 0.001 % to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.002% to 1 % by weight and better still from 0.01 % to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Among the nonionic surfactants, those that are particularly preferred are:

- polyoxyethylenated fatty esters of sorbitol such as the product sold under the name Tween 20 by the company ICI;

- condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide such as those sold under the name Synperonic PE by the company ICI in particular those referenced L 31 , L 64, F 38, F 88, L 92, P 103, F 108 and F 127;

- alkylpolyglycosides such as those of general formula (I) below:

R-0-(G)_x (I)

in which R represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, G represents a reduced sugar comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, and x is a value ranging from 1 to 15;

- and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, when the composition contains a surfactant, it contains at least one nonionic surfactant and preferably at least one alkylpolyglycoside.

The alkylpolyglycosides preferably used in the composition according to the present invention are compounds of formula (I) in which R more particularly denotes an alkyl radical comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, G denotes glucose, fructose or galactose, and x is a value ranging from 1 to 4 and more particularly from 1 to 3. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the alkylpolyglycoside used in the composition of the invention is an alkylpolyglucoside, i.e. a compound of formula (I) in which G denotes glucose and x is a value ranging from 1.2 to 3. Examples of alkylpolyglucosides that may be mentioned include decylglucoside (Alkyl- C9/C1 1 -polyglucoside (1 .4)), for instance the product sold under the name Mydol 10 by the company Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the names Plantaren 2000 UP and Plantacare 2000 UP by the company Henkel, and the product sold under the name Oramix NS 10 by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl/capryl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Oramix CG 1 10 by the company SEPPIC or under the name Lutensol GD 70 by the company BASF; lauryl glucoside, for instance the products sold under the names Plantaren 1200 N and Plantacare 1200 by the company Henkel; cocoyl glucoside, for instance the product sold under the name Plantacare 818/UP by the company Henkel; and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, which will be in one or other phase depending on their hydrophilic or lipophilic nature, for instance fragrances, preserving agents and bactericides, dyes, softeners, buffers, humectants, UV-screening agents (or sunscreens), electrolytes such as sodium chloride as indicated above, or a pH regulator (for example citric acid or sodium hydroxide), and mixtures thereof.

Preserving agents that may be used include any preserving agent usually used in the fields under consideration, for instance parabens, phenoxyethanol, chlorhexidine gluconate and polyhexamethylene biguanide hydrochloride (CTFA name: Polyaminopropyl biguanide). According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition contains polyhexamethylene biguanide hydrochloride, alone or as a mixture with other preserving agents.

An example of a bactericide that may be used is a glyceryl mono(C₃-C₉)alkyl or (C₃- C₉)alkenyl ether, the manufacture of which is described in the literature, in particular in E. Baer, H.O.L. Fischer - J. Biol. Chem. 140-397-1941. Among these glyceryl mono(C₃- C₉)alkyl or (C₃-C₉)alkenyl ethers, use is preferably made of 3-[(2-ethylhexyl)oxy]-1 ,2- propanediol, 3-[(heptyl)oxy]-1 ,2-propanediol, 3-[(octyl)oxy]-1 ,2-propanediol and 3- [(allyl)oxy]-1 ,2-propanediol. A glyceryl mono(C₃-C₉)alkyl ether that is more particularly preferred according to the present invention is 3-[(2-ethylhexyl)oxy]-1 ,2-propanediol, sold by the company Schulke & Mayr G.m.b.H. under the trade name Sensiva SC 50 (INCI name: Ethylhexylglycerin).

Among the softeners, mention may be made in particular of allantoin and bisabolol, planktons, and certain plant extracts, such as rose extracts and melilot extracts.

The active agent(s) that may be present depend on the final purpose of the composition. As active agents that may be used in the composition of the invention, especially when it is a skincare composition, examples that may be mentioned include enzymes (for example lactoperoxidase, lipase, protease, phospholipase, cellulases); flavonoids such as isoflavones; moisturizers such as protein hydrolysates; sodium hyaluronate; antiinflammatory agents; oligomeric procyanidins; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), derivatives of these vitamins (in particular esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; depigmenting agents such as kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; ohydroxy acids, such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and derivatives thereof; retinoids, such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; hydrocortisone; melatonin; extracts of algae, of fungi, of plants, of yeasts, of bacteria; steroids; antibacterial active agents, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'- trichlorocarbanilide (or triclocarban) and the acids indicated above, and in particular salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; tensioning agents; ceramides; essential oils; and mixtures thereof; and any active agent that is suitable for the final purpose of the composition.

The UV-screening agents may be present in the composition according to the invention especially when it is intended for antisun protection. These screening agents may especially be organic screening agents, and they may be present in an active-material amount ranging from 0.01 % to 20% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.1 % to 15% by weight and better still from 0.2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As examples of UV-A-active and/or UV-B-active organic screening agents, which may be added to the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include derivatives bearing a sulfonic function, such as sulfone or sulfonate derivatives of benzylidenecamphor, benzophenone or phenylbenzimidazole, more particularly benzylidenecamphor derivatives, for instance benzene-1 ,4-bis(3-methylidenecamphor-10- sulfonic acid), (INCI name: Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonic acid) manufactured under the name Mexoryl SX by the company Chimex, and 3-benzylidenecamphor-4'-sulfonic acid (INCI name: Benzylidenecamphorsulfonic acid) manufactured under the name Mexoryl SL by the company Chimex, 2-[4-(camphormethylidene)phenyl]benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid (INCI name: Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid), sold under the name Eusolex 232 by the company Merck; para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives; salicylic derivatives such as ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan OS by Haarmann and Reimer; dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane sold especially under the trade name Parsol 1789 by the company Hoffmann LaRoche; cinnamic derivatives such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, sold especially under the trade name Parsol MCX by Hoffmann LaRoche; β,β'- diphenylacrylate derivatives such as octocrylene (2-ethylhexyl a-cyano-β,β- diphenylacrylate) sold under the trade name Uvinul N539 by the company BASF; benzophenone derivatives such as benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name Uvinul 400 by BASF, benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name Uvinul D50 by BASF, benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone, sold under the trade name Uvinul M40 by BASF, benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name Uvinul MS40 by BASF; benzylidenecamphor derivatives such as 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor sold under the trade name Eusolex 6300 by Merck; phenylbenzimidazole derivatives such as benzimidazilate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP by Haarmann and Reimer; triazine derivatives such as anisotriazine sold under the trade name Tinosorb S by Ciba Geigy and ethylhexyl triazone sold especially under the trade name Uvinul T150 by BASF; phenylbenzotriazole derivatives such as drometrizole trisiloxane sold under the trade name Silatrizole by Rhodia Chimie; anthranilic derivatives such as menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan MA by Haarmann and Reimer; imidazoline derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives; and mixtures thereof.

The compositions described above may be packaged, in a known manner, in a bottle with a single compartment. The user must then shake the bottle before pouring its contents onto a pad of cotton wool. Provision may also be made for the two phases of the composition to be introduced into two independent compartments of the same bottle, a system being provided for mixing them together at the time of dispensing. Such devices are described, for example, in documents EP-A-497 256 and FR-A-2 697 233.

The composition according to the invention may be used for any topical application; it may especially constitute a cosmetic or dermatological composition. It may in particular be used for caring for, cleansing and/or removing makeup from the skin, the lips and/or the eyes, and also as a haircare composition. A subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition as defined above, for caring for, removing makeup from and/or cleansing the skin, the lips and/or the eyes, and/or for haircare.

A subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic process for removing makeup from, cleansing and/or caring for the skin, the lips and/or the eyes, characterized in that a cosmetic composition as defined above is applied to the skin, the lips and/or the eyes.

A subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic haircare process, characterized in that a cosmetic composition as defined above is applied to the hair.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition is a composition for caring for bodily and/or facial skin. The examples below of compositions according to the invention are given as illustrations with no limiting nature. The amounts therein are given as weight percentages of starting material, unless otherwise mentioned. The names of the compounds are given as the chemical names or the INCI names.

Examples

Example 1 :

The composition comprising the following two phases was prepared.

Fatty phase:

Isononyl isononanoate 9%

Dicaprylyl ether 12%

Hydrogenated polyisobutene

(Parleam from NOF Corporation) 3%

Silicone oil

(KF-96L-2CS) 6%

Aqueous phase:

Water qs 100

Hydroxyethylpiperazineethanesulfonic acid 1 %

Duckweed extract as an aqueous solution containing 5.2%

active material (P-Refinyl from Silab) 0.0052%

Sodium tetrahydrojasmonate as a solution containing 30%

active material in a water (50%)/

propylene glycol (20%) mixture 1 .5%

Preserving agent(s) 0.5%

Ethanol 3.5%

Glycerol 8.75%

NaOH qs pH 6.3

Procedure: The ingredients of the aqueous phase are mixed together without heating. The oils are mixed together without heating. The two phases are then mixed together.

A comparative two-phase composition not comprising any cucurbic acid derivative was also prepared. The two-phase compositions thus obtained consist of two immiscible distinct phases. After shaking and extemporaneous and transient formation of an emulsion, separation into two phases takes place, without formation of foam. The interface after demixing is sharper than when the composition does not containss the cucurbic acid derivative.

Moreover, the stability of the composition according to the invention at 2 months is better than that of the composition not containing any cucurbic acid derivative.

After shaking and phase separation, the composition according to the invention does not contain any oily drops on the walls of the aqueous phase and, conversely, there are no aqueous drops on the walls of the oily phase.

Furthermore, the addition of cucurbic acid derivative makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous composition for about 15 minutes instead of 1 minute, which allows optimal use of the composition.

Furthermore, during the use of the composition over time (about one month), the composition remains identical, the ratio between the fatty phase and the aqueous phase remaining identical, whereas this is not the case when the phase separation is too rapid: there is unequal consumption between the aqueous phase and the fatty phase. Example 2:

The composition comprising the following two phases was prepared.

Fatty phase:

Isononyl isononanoate 9%

Dicaprylyl ether 12%

Hydrogenated polyisobutene

(Parleam from NOF Corporation) 3%

Silicone oil

(KF-96L-2CS) 6%

Aqueous phase:

- Water qs 100

- Hydroxyethylpiperazineethanesulfonic acid 1 %

- Duckweed extract as an aqueous solution containing 5.2%

active material (P-Refinyl from Silab) 0.0052% AM

- Sodium tetrahydrojasmonate as a solution containing 30% active material in a water (50%)/

propylene glycol (20%) mixture 1 .5%

- Preserving agent(s) 0.5%

- Ethanol 3.5% - Glycerol 8.75%

- NaOH qs pH 6.3

The composition according to the procedure of Example 1 was prepared. The same results as in Example 1 were obtained. Example 3

The composition comprising the following two phases was prepared.

Fatty phase:

Isononyl isononanoate 10.2%

Dicaprylyl ether 6.88 %

Hydrogenated polyisobutene

(Parleam from NOF Corporation) 3%

Silicone oil

(KF-96L-2CS) 5.25%

Apricot kernel oil 2.5%

Essential oil of lavender 0.01 %

Essential oil of rosemary 0.01 %

Capsicum annuum extract 0.006%

2-Hexyldecanol 1 .8%

Mixture of coriander oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil,

passion flower oil and apricot kernel oil (10/10/10/20/50)

(Balance Lipids, Type 13B from Nestle) 0.3%

Rosa canina fruit oil

(Rosehip Seed Oil Type C from Nestle) 1 .5% Aqueous phase:

Water qs 100%

Hydroxyethylpiperazineethanesulfonic acid 1 %

Sodium tetrahydrojasmonate as a solution containing 30% active material in a water (50%)/ propylene glycol (20%) mixture

Preserving agent(s)

Ethanol

Dipropylene glycol

Glycerol

NaOH

Claims

1 . Composition for topical application, comprising an aqueous phase and an oily phase that are visually distinct and superposed and at least one cucurbic acid compound especially of formula (I) below:

in which:

and also the optical isomers thereof, and corresponding salts.

2. Composition according to Claim 1 , characterized in that the compound of formula (I) is such that Ri denotes a radical chosen from -COOH, -COOMe, -COO-CH₂-CH₃, -COO— CH₂-CH(OH)-CH₂OH, -COOCH₂-CH₂-CH₂OH and -COOCH₂-CH(OH)-CH₃; R₂ denotes a saturated or unsaturated linear hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 2 to 7 carbon atoms.

3. Composition according to either of Claims 1 and 2, characterized in that, in the compound of formula (I), Ri denotes a radical -COOH.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that, in the compound of formula (I), R₂ denotes a saturated or unsaturated linear hydrocarbon-based radical, preferably containing from 2 to 7 carbon atoms.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that R₂ is a pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl or heptyl radical.

6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound (I) is 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentaneacetic acid and/or salts thereof.

7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound of formula (I) is present in a content ranging from 0.01 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 % to 10% by weight and better still from 0.5% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

8. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, in which the weight ratio between the aqueous phase and the oily phase ranges from 10/90 to 90/10, preferably from 25/75 to 90/10, even more preferentially from 30/70 to 80/20 and better still from 40/60 to 70/30.

9. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, in which the oily phase comprises one or more oils chosen from hydrocarbon-based, mineral, plant and synthetic oils, or alternatively silicone oils.

10. Composition according to Claim 9, in which the oil(s) are chosen from fatty acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, fatty alcohol ethers, plant oils, mineral oils such as liquid petroleum jelly, fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature and liquid fatty acid triglycerides.

1 1 . Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, comprising at least one surfactant chosen especially from nonionic surfactants.

12. Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 1 1 , for caring for, removing makeup from and/or cleansing the skin, the lips and/or the eyes and/or for haircare, preferably for skincare.

13. Cosmetic process for removing makeup from, cleansing and/or caring for the skin, the lips and/or the eyes, preferably for skincare, in which a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 1 1 is applied to the skin, the lips and/or the eyes.