WO2010069995A1 - Silicone-free transparent two-phase composition - Google Patents

Silicone-free transparent two-phase composition Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2010069995A1
WO2010069995A1 PCT/EP2009/067284 EP2009067284W WO2010069995A1 WO 2010069995 A1 WO2010069995 A1 WO 2010069995A1 EP 2009067284 W EP2009067284 W EP 2009067284W WO 2010069995 A1 WO2010069995 A1 WO 2010069995A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
weight
composition
phase
composition according
volatile linear
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PCT/EP2009/067284
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Vincent Grandjon
Sabine Deprez
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2010069995A1 publication Critical patent/WO2010069995A1/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/03Liquid compositions with two or more distinct layers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31Hydrocarbons
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86Polyethers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/14Preparations for removing make-up
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10Washing or bathing preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/26Optical properties
    • A61K2800/262Transparent; Translucent
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

Definitions

  • compositions for topical application constituted of two separate phases, a hydrophilic phase and an oily phase, that emulsify readily by agitation giving a clear, that is to say transparent, composition, and the use of said composition for makeup removal, cleansing and/or care of the skin, lips and/or eyes, and/or for care of the hair.
  • compositions of this type constituted of two separate phases, especially of a hydrophilic aqueous phase and of an oily phase, are generally referred to by the term "two-phase composition". They differ from emulsions by the fact that at rest the two phases are separate instead of being emulsified in one another. Thus, the two phases are separated at rest by a single interface whereas, in emulsions, one of the phases is dispersed in the other in the form of a multitude of droplets, and the interfaces are therefore multiple, these interfaces generally being stabilized by emulsifying surfactants and/or emulsifying polymers.
  • the use of two-phase compositions requires prior agitation in order to form an extemporaneous emulsion. This must be of sufficient quality and stability to allow a homogeneous application of the two phases, but such that at rest, the two phases rapidly separate and regain their initial state, this phenomenon being better known by the term "phase separation".
  • compositions form, after agitation, an opaque emulsion, a mixture of two phases that are immiscible in one another.
  • these compositions are generally presented in transparent containers, and the opacity of the two emulsified phases is aesthetically harmful.
  • transparent compositions because, just like water, the transparency is a symbol of purity and therefore of cleanliness, and transparent compositions are thus particularly appreciated by the users.
  • silicone oils such as for example cyclopentasiloxane make it possible to obtain compositions that form, after agitation, a transparent mixture of two immiscible phases.
  • the Applicant has found that it was possible to obtain a transparent two-phase composition which, after agitation, gives a transparent emulsion and which phase separates again rapidly into two transparent phases, having a perfectly clear interface, by using a hydrophilic phase comprising one or more polyols in a sufficient amount and an oily phase comprising one or more non-silicone oils in a sufficient amount.
  • one subject of the invention is a composition for topical application, constituted of a hydrophilic phase and of an oily phase that are separate and transparent, the hydrophilic phase comprising at least 40% by weight of one or more polyols relative to the total weight of the hydrophilic phase and the oily phase comprising at least 5% by weight of one or more non-silicone oils relative to the total weight of the oily phase, the amounts of polyols and of non-silicone oils being such that the refractive indices of the oily and hydrophilic phases are substantially equal, said composition comprising less than 4% by weight of silicone oils relative to the total weight of the composition and the amount of surfactant in the composition being less than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition .
  • composition according to the invention is intended for a topical application, it contains a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium that is compatible with the skin, the mucosae, the hair and the scalp.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic phase and one oily phase that are separate. These two phases are separate, that is to say that they are visible, one on top of the other, at rest, and the interface between the two is perfectly clear. They are transparent at rest, and when the composition is agitated before it is used, the mixture obtained constituted of the emulsion of one phase in the other is transparent.
  • the two phases may or may not be coloured.
  • the use of a relatively high polyol content makes it possible to be partially or completely free of the presence of preservatives in the composition according to the invention.
  • the refractive indices of the hydrophilic phase and of the oily phase are substantially equal, the word "substantially” meaning that the difference between the refractive indices of the two phases does not exceed 0.005 and therefore that the refractive indices of the two phases are equal to within 0.005.
  • the refractive indices of these phases are generally of around 1.39 to 1.48, these indices being measured at ambient temperature (20 to 25°C) .
  • the word "transparent” means that the composition has a turbidity of less than or equal to 300 NTU.
  • the transparency of a composition can be measured by its turbidity, and the NTUs (nephelometric turbidity units) are the units for measuring the turbidity of a composition.
  • the turbidity measurement may be carried out, for example, with a 2100P model turbidimeter from Hach Company, the tubes used for the measurement having the reference AR397A cat 24347-06. The measurements are carried out at ambient temperature (20 0 C to 25°C) .
  • the composition of the invention has a turbidity generally ranging from 2 to 300 NTU, and preferably from 5 to 200 NTU.
  • the hydrophilic phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least 40% of polyols relative to the total weight of the hydrophilic phase.
  • the amount of polyols is preferably at least 10 by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and it may range, for example, from 10 to 90% by weight and preferably from 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • polyol should be understood to mean any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.
  • polyols mention may be made, for example, of glycerol, glycols such as butylene glycol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose, and mixtures thereof.
  • glycols such as butylene glycol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols
  • sorbitol sugars such as glucose, and mixtures thereof.
  • the polyol chosen is glycerol, dipropylene glycol or mixtures thereof, or a mixture of glycerol and/or of dipropylene glycol and of one or more other polyols especially chosen from those indicated above: butylene glycol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars, methylpropanediol and 1, 3-propanediol and mixtures thereof.
  • the hydrophilic phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise water and any water-soluble or water-dispersible additive.
  • the water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, camomile water or lime water, and/or a natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example: water from Vittel, water from the Vichy basin, water from Uriage, water from La Roche Posay, water from La Bourboule, water from Enghien-les-Bains, water from Saint Gervais-les-Bains, water from Neris-les- Bains, water from Allevar-les-Bains, water from Digne, water from Maizieres, water from Neyrac-les-Bains, water from Lons-le-Saunier, water from Eaux Bonnes, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, water from Les Fumades, water from Tercis-les-Bains or water from Avene .
  • the hydrophilic phase may also comprise reconstituted thermal
  • the hydrophilic phase may also comprise a primary alcohol, that is to say an alcohol comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol. This is preferably ethanol.
  • This alcohol may be present in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.01 to 40% by weight and preferably from 0.1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The addition of such an alcohol may be especially appropriate when the composition according to the invention is used as a product for the body or the hair .
  • the weight ratio between the hydrophilic phase and the oily phase ranges from 25/75 to 90/10, preferably from 30/70 to 70/30, better still from 40/60 to 60/40 and even better still from 45/55 to 55/45.
  • the hydrophilic phase therefore generally represents from 25 to 90% by weight, preferably from 30 to 70% by weight, better still from 40 to 60% by weight and even better still from 45 to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the oily phase generally represents from 10 to 75% and preferably from 30 to 70% by weight, better still from 40 to 60% by weight and even better still from 45 to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition .
  • the oily phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least 5% of one or more non- silicone oils relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
  • the amount of non-silicone oil (s) is preferably at least 1% by weight, and this amount may range, for example, from 1 to 70% by weight, preferably from 5 to 65% by weight, better still from 10 to 60% by weight and even better still from 20 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of silicone oils relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 3%, more preferably less than 2%, better still less than 1% by weight and even better still less than 0.5% by weight of silicone oils. In particular, it is free of silicone oils.
  • silicone oil is understood to mean an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and especially containing Si-O groups.
  • silicone oils mention may be made, for example, of volatile silicone oils such as cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: cyclomethicone) , such as cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopenta- siloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane; linear silicones such as heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, and dodecamethylpentasiloxane; non-volatile silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PD
  • composition according to the invention may comprise, as a non-silicone oil, volatile or nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil is understood to mean an oil formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and that does not contain silicon or fluorine atoms; it may contain ester, ether, amine or amide groups.
  • volatile is understood to mean a compound capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil that is liquid at ambient temperature, especially that has a non-zero vapour pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular that has a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 ⁇ 3 to 300 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg) .
  • non-silicone oils that can be used in the composition of the invention mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as perhydrosqualene, liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or else, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soya bean oil, pumpkin oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, coriander oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil; synthetic esters and ethers, especially of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulae R 1 COOR 2 and R 1 OR 2 in which R 1 represents the
  • the composition comprises at least one non-silicone oil chosen from the following hydrocarbon-based oils: fatty acid esters comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate or 2-octyldodecyl stearate; linear hydrocarbons such as Parleam® oil and liquid petroleum jelly; hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin such as apricot kernel oil, essential oils, fragrances, volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms such as undecane, tridecane, Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes such as isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane .
  • hydrocarbon-based oils such as apricot kernel oil, essential oils, fragrances, volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a hydrophilic phase and an oily phase that are separate and transparent, the hydrophilic phase comprising at least 40% by weight of one or more polyols relative to the total weight of the hydrophilic phase and the oily phase comprising at least 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase, of one or more non- silicone oils chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 14 carbon atoms, the amounts of polyols and of volatile linear alkanes being such that the refractive indices of the oily and hydrophilic phases are substantially equal.
  • one subject of the invention is a composition for topical application, constituted of a hydrophilic phase and of an oily phase that are separate and transparent, the hydrophilic phase comprising at least 40% by weight of one or more polyols relative to the total weight of the hydrophilic phase and the oily phase comprising at least 5% by weight of one or more non-silicone oils chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 14 carbon atoms, the amounts of polyols and of volatile linear alkanes being such that the refractive indices of the oily and hydrophilic phases are substantially equal.
  • this composition comprises less than 4% by weight of silicone oils, as cited above, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • this composition has an amount (as active materials) of surfactant less than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still less than 1% by weight. It may be free of surfactants.
  • a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention is liquid at ambient temperature (around 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
  • volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention, is understood to mean a cosmetic linear alkane capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature
  • the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg/cm 2 /min at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
  • the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 1.5 mg/cm 2 /min at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
  • the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.8 mg/cm 2 /min at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) . More preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes” suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.3 mg/cm 2 /min at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
  • the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.12 mg/cm 2 /min at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
  • the evaporation rate of a volatile alkane according to the invention may especially be evaluated by means of the protocol described in WO 06/013413, and more particularly by means of the protocol described below.
  • the liquid is left to evaporate freely, without being stirred, ventilation being provided by a fan
  • the mass of volatile hydrocarbon-based solvent remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular time intervals.
  • the evaporation profile of the solvent is then obtained by plotting the curve of the amounts of product evaporated (in mg/cm 2 ) as a function of the time (in min) .
  • evaporation rate which corresponds to the tangent at the origin of the curve obtained.
  • the evaporation rates are expressed as mg of volatile solvent evaporated per unit area (cm 2 ) and per unit time (minutes) .
  • the "volatile linear alkanes” suitable for the invention have a non-zero vapour pressure (also known as saturation vapour pressure) at ambient temperature, in particular a vapour pressure ranging from 0.3 Pa to 6000 Pa.
  • the "volatile linear alkanes” suitable for the invention have a vapour pressure ranging from 0.3 to 2000 Pa at ambient temperature (25°C) .
  • the "volatile linear alkanes” suitable for the invention have a vapour pressure ranging from 0.3 to 1000 Pa at ambient temperature (25°C) .
  • the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have a vapour pressure ranging from 0.4 to 600 Pa at ambient temperature (25°C) .
  • the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have a vapour pressure ranging from 1 to 200 Pa at ambient temperature (25°C) .
  • the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have a vapour pressure ranging from 3 to 60 Pa at ambient temperature (25°C) .
  • a linear volatile alkane suitable for the invention may have a flashpoint in the range that varies from 30 to 120 0 C, and more particularly from 40 to 100 0 C.
  • the flashpoint is, in particular, measured according to the ISO 3679 standard.
  • the volatile linear alkanes comprise from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular from 7 to 15 carbon atoms, better still from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms.
  • the volatile linear alkanes in accordance with the invention may advantageously be of plant origin.
  • an alkane suitable for the invention may be a volatile linear alkane comprising from 7 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention comprise from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention comprise from 9 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • the "volatile linear alkanes” suitable for the invention comprise from 10 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • the "volatile linear alkanes” suitable for the invention comprise from 11 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate, as defined above, ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg/cm 2 /min at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and comprise from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may advantageously be of plant origin.
  • the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes present in the composition according to the invention comprises at least one 14 C isotope of carbon (carbon-14), in particular the 14 C isotope may be present in a 14 C/ 12 C ratio greater than or equal to 1 X 10 ⁇ 16 , preferably greater than or equal to 1 X 10 ⁇ 15 , more preferably greater than or equal to 7.5 X 10 ⁇ 14 , and better still greater than or equal to 1.5 X 10 ⁇ 13 .
  • the 14 CV 12 C ratio ranges from 6 X 10 "13 to 1.2 X 10 "12 .
  • the amount of 14 C isotopes in the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes may be determined by methods known to a person skilled in the art such as the Libby counting method, liquid scintillation spectrometry or else accelerator mass spectrometry.
  • alkanes may be obtained, directly or in several steps, from a plant raw material such as an oil, a butter, a wax, etc.
  • a plant raw material such as an oil, a butter, a wax, etc.
  • volatile linear alkanes suitable for the invention mention may be made of those described in patent application WO 2007/068371 or WO 2008/155059 by Cognis (mixtures of different alkanes that differ by at least one carbon) .
  • These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols that are themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil .
  • the volatile linear alkane is chosen from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the volatile linear alkane could be used alone.
  • n of at least 1 differs from one another by a carbon number n of at least 1, in particular that differ from one another by a carbon number of 1 or 2.
  • a mixture of at least two different volatile linear alkanes comprising from 10 to 14 carbon atoms that differ from one another by a carbon number of at least
  • Cio/Cii C11/C12 or C12/C13 mixtures of volatile linear alkanes.
  • a mixture of at least two different volatile linear alkanes comprising from 10 to 14 carbon atoms that differ from one another by a carbon number of at least 2, and in particular a C11/C13 mixture of volatile linear alkanes or a C12/C14 mixture of the volatile linear alkanes .
  • mixtures combining more than 2 volatile linear alkanes according to the invention such as for example a mixture of at least 3 different volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 14 carbon atoms that differ from one another by a carbon number of at least 1, are also part of the invention, but the mixtures with 2 volatile linear alkanes according to the invention are preferred (binary mixtures), said 2 volatile linear alkanes preferably representing more than 95% and better still more than 99% by weight of the total content of volatile linear alkanes in the mixture.
  • the volatile linear alkane having the smallest carbon number is predominant in the mixture.
  • mixtures suitable for the invention use is made of a mixture of volatile linear alkanes in which the volatile linear alkane having the highest carbon number is predominant in the mixture.
  • mixtures suitable for the invention mention may especially be made of the following mixtures: from 50 to 90% by weight, preferably from 55 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 60 to 75% by weight of C n volatile linear alkane with n ranging from 7 to 14; from 10 to 50% by weight, preferably from 20 to
  • said mixture of alkanes according to the invention contains: less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, of branched hydrocarbons; and/or less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, of aromatic hydrocarbons; and/or less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and preferentially less than 0.1% by weight of unsaturated hydrocarbons in the mixture.
  • a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may be used in the form of an n-undecane/n-tridecane mixture.
  • a mixture of volatile linear alkanes comprising: - from 55 to 80% by weight, preferably from 60 to 75% by weight, of Cu (n-undecane) volatile linear alkane; from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40% by weight, of C13 (n-tridecane) volatile linear alkane relative to the total weight of alkanes in said mixture .
  • the mixture of alkanes is an n-undecane/n-tridecane mixture.
  • such a mixture may be obtained according to Example 1 or Example 2 of WO 2008/155059.
  • n-dodecane sold under the reference PARAFOL 12-97 by Sasol.
  • use is made of the n-tetradecane sold under the reference PARAFOL 14-97 by Sasol.
  • composition of the invention may comprise from 5% to 50% by weight of volatile linear alkane (s), in particular from 5 to 40% by weight of volatile linear alkane (s), and more particularly from 5 to 30% of volatile linear alkane (s) relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of oil (s) may range, for example, from 10 to 70% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the total amount of volatile oils may range, for example, from 5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 40% by weight and better still from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • surfactant may range, for example, from 10 to 70% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition
  • the total amount of volatile oils may range, for example, from 5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 40% by weight and better still from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the two-phase composition may optionally comprise at least one surfactant in one or the other of the phases.
  • a surfactant this may be of the anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric type, but it is preferably of the non-ionic and/or anionic type. It is preferably present in the hydrophilic phase.
  • the amount of surfactant (s) , as active material, is preferably such that the two phases remain separate at rest and do not mix together to form an emulsion.
  • This amount is generally less than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still, less than 1% by weight. It may range, for example, from 0.01 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.025 to 1% by weight and better still from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention is free of surfactant.
  • Non-ionic surfactants of: polyoxyethylenated sorbitol fatty esters such as the product sold under the name TWEEN 20 by ICI; polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols such as the product sold under the name REMCOPAL 21912 AL by Gerland; polyoxyethylenated alkylphenols such as the product sold under the name TRITON X 100 by R ⁇ hm-Haas; and condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide such as those sold under the names SYNPERONIC PE by ICI and in particular those referenced L 31, L 64, F 38 , F 8 8 , L 92 , P 1 03 , F 1 0 8 and F 127 ; esters of fatty acids and of glycerol or of polyglycerol such as for example glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, and glyceryl caprylate; - ethers of
  • decyl glucoside Alkyl-C9/Cll-polyglucoside (1.4)
  • MYDOL 10® Kao Chemicals
  • PLANTAREN 2000 UP® by Cognis
  • ORAMIX NS 10® by Seppic
  • caprylyl/capryl glucoside such as the product sold under the name ORAMIX CG 110® by Seppic
  • laurylglucoside such as the products sold under the names PLANTAREN 1200 N® and PLANTACARE 1200® by Cognis
  • cocoglucoside such as the product sold under the name PLANTACARE 818/UP® by Cognis
  • cetostearylglucoside optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol sold, for example, under the name MONTANOV 68 by Seppic under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE330
  • anionic surfactants of:
  • alkyl sulphosuccinates for example the oxyethylenated (3 EO) lauryl alcohol (C12/C14 70/30) monosulphosuccinate sold under the names SETACIN 103 SPECIAL or REWOPOL SB-FA 30 K 4 by Witco, the disodium salt of a hemisulphosuccinate of C12-C14 alcohols sold under the name SETACIN F SPECIAL PASTE by Zschimmer Schwarz, the oxyethylenated (2 EO) disodium oleamidosulphosuccinate sold under the name STANDAPOL SH 135 by Henkel, the oxyethylenated (5 EO) lauramide monosulphosuccinate sold under the name LEBON A-5000 by Sanyo, the disodium salt of oxyethylenated (10 EO) lauryl citrate monosulphosuccinate sold under the name REWOPOL SB CS 50 by Witco or the disodium salt
  • polypeptides which are obtained, for example, by condensation of a fatty chain with cereal amino acids and in particular wheat and oat amino acids, such as, for example, the potassium salt of lauroyl hydrolysed wheat protein sold under the name AMINOFOAM W OR by Croda, the triethanolamine salt of cocoyl hydrolysed soya protein sold under the name MAY-TEIN SY by Maybrook, the sodium salt of lauroyl oat amino acids sold under the name PROTEOL OAT by Seppic, the hydrolysate of collagen grafted to coconut fatty acid sold under the name GELIDERM 3000 by Irish Gelatine or the soya proteins acylated with hydrogenated coconut acids sold under the name PROTEOL VS 22 by Seppic;
  • the potassium salt of lauroyl hydrolysed wheat protein sold under the name AMINOFOAM W OR by Croda the triethanolamine salt of cocoyl hydrolysed soya protein sold under the name MAY-TEIN SY by Maybrook
  • sarcosinates and in particular acylsarcosinates such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sold under the name SARKOSYL NL 97 by Ciba or sold under the name ORAMIX L 30 by Seppic, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE MN by Nikkol, or sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE PN by Nikkol
  • alaninates such as sodium N- lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate, sold under the name SODIUM NIKKOL ALANINATE LN 30 by Nikkol or sold under the name ALANONE ALE by Kawaken, and triethanolamine N- lauroyl-N-methylalanine, sold under the name ALANONE ALTA by Kawaken
  • N-acylglutamates such as triethanolamine monococoy
  • ⁇ -olefin sulphonates such as the sodium ⁇ -olefin (C14-16) sulphonate sold under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40 by Stepan, sold under the names WITCONATE AOS PROTEGE and SULFRAMINE AOS PH 12 by Witco or sold under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40 CG by Stepan or the sodium secondary olefin sulphonate sold under the name HOSTAPUR SAS 30 by Clariant; or linear alkylarylsulphonates, such as the sodium xylenesulphonate sold under the names MANROSOL SXS30, MANROSOL SXS40 or MANROSOL SXS 93 by Manro;
  • acyl isethionates such as sodium cocoyl isethionate, for example the product sold under the name JORDAPON CI P by Jordan.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants of:
  • alkylamido alkylamine derivatives such as N-disodium N-cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N- (carboxymethyl) - ethylenediamine (CTFA name: Disodium cocoamphodiacetate) , sold as a saline aqueous solution under the name MIRANOL C2M CONC NP by Rhodia Chimie; N- sodium N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N- (carboxymethyl) ethylenediamine (CTFA name: sodium coco- amphoacetate) and the mixture of coconut acid ethanolamides (CTFA name: Cocamide DEA);
  • coco betaine such as the product sold under the name DEHYTON AB-30 by Henkel
  • lauryl betaine such as the product sold under the name GENAGEN KB by Clariant
  • oxyethylenated (10 EO) lauryl betaine such as the product sold under the name LAURYL ETHER (10 EO) BETAINE by Shin Nihon Portugal
  • oxyethylenated (10 EO) stearyl betaine such as the product sold under the name STEARYL ETHER (10 EO) BETAINE by Shin Nihon Portugal
  • alkyl amidopropyl betaines and their derivatives such as, for example, cocamidopropyl betaine, sold under the name LEBON 2000 HG by Sanyo or sold under the name EMPIGEN BB by Albright & Wilson, lauramidopropyl betaine, sold under the name REWOTERIC AMB12P by Witco, such as cocamidopropyl betaine, for example the products sold under the names TEGO BETAINE by Goldschmidt ;
  • composition according to the invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives which will be found in one or the other phase depending on their hydrophilic or lipophilic nature, such as for example hydrophilic gelling agents, preservatives and bactericidal agents, dyes, softeners, buffers, humectants, UV-screening agents (or sunscreens) , electrolytes such as sodium chloride or a pH regulator, for example citric acid or sodium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.
  • conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives which will be found in one or the other phase depending on their hydrophilic or lipophilic nature, such as for example hydrophilic gelling agents, preservatives and bactericidal agents, dyes, softeners, buffers, humectants, UV-screening agents (or sunscreens) , electrolytes such as sodium chloride or a pH regulator, for example citric acid or sodium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.
  • hydrophilic gelling agents examples include modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers such as the products sold under the names CARBOPOL (INCI name: carbomer) by Noveon; polyacrylamides ; homopolymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, which are optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) sold by Clariant under the name HOSTACERIN AMPS (INCI name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) ; polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, alginates, modified or unmodified celluloses; and mixtures thereof.
  • these gelling agents should be introduced in an amount such that they do not modify the properties of the composition according to the invention.
  • lipophilic gelling agents mention may be made of alkene copolymers such as, for example, the block copolymers of diblock, triblock or radial type of the polystyrene/polyisoprene type, polystyrene/polybutadiene type such as those sold under the name LUVITOL HSB® by BASF, of the polystyrene/copoly (ethylene-propylene) type such as those sold under the name KRATON® by Shell Chemical Co.
  • alkene copolymers such as, for example, the block copolymers of diblock, triblock or radial type of the polystyrene/polyisoprene type, polystyrene/polybutadiene type such as those sold under the name LUVITOL HSB® by BASF, of the polystyrene/copoly (ethylene-
  • polystyrene/copoly (ethylene-butylene) type blends of triblock and radial (star-shaped) copolymers in isododecane such as those sold by Penreco under the name VERSAGEL® such as for example the blend of butylene/ethylene/styrene triblock copolymer and of ethylene/propylene/styrene star-shaped copolymer in isododecane (VERSAGEL M 5960) .
  • the gelling agent may be present in a content of active material that ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • preservatives it is possible to use any preservative customarily used in the fields in question, such as for example parabens and chlorhexidine gluconate.
  • a bactericidal agent it is possible, for example, to use a glycerol mono (C3-C9) alkyl or (C3-C9) alkenyl ether, the manufacture of which is described in the literature, in particular in E. Baer, H. O. L. Fischer - J. Biol. Chem. 140-397-1941.
  • glycerol mono (C3-C9) alkyl or (C3-C9) alkenyl ethers 3- [ (2-ethylhexyl) oxy] -1, 2-propanediol, 3- [ (heptyl) oxy] - 1, 2-propanediol, 3- [ (octyl) oxy] -1, 2-propanediol and 3- [ (allyl) oxy] -1, 2-propanediol are preferably used.
  • a glycerol mono (C3-C9) alkyl ether that is more particularly preferred according to the present invention is 3- [ (2-ethylhexyl) oxy] -1, 2-propanediol, sold by Schulke & Mayr GmbH under the trade name SENSIVA SC 50 (INCI name: Ethylhexylglycerin) .
  • SENSIVA SC 50 INCI name: Ethylhexylglycerin
  • softeners mention may in particular be made of allantoin and bisabolol, planktons, and certain plant extracts such as extracts of rose and extracts of sweet clover.
  • the composition may also comprise, preferably in the hydrophilic phase, a phase separation agent in a proportion ranging, for example, from 0.025 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • phase separation agent mention may be made, for example, of alkyldimethylbenzylammonium chlorides as described in document EP-A-603 080, and especially benzalkonium chloride, and mixtures containing it; alkoxylated alkyl glucosides comprising a quaternary ammonium group and especially lauryl methyl gluceth-10 hydroxypropyl dimonium chloride as described in document EP-A-847 746; polymers and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and especially the polyvinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymer as described in document WO-A-99/56704 ; and mixtures thereof.
  • the ratio between the surfactant and the phase separation agent preferably ranges from 0.005/1 to 200/1 and better still from 0.01/1 to 120/1.
  • active agents include enzymes (for example lactoperoxidase, lipase, protease, phospholipase and cellulases) ; flavonoids; moisturizers such as protein hydrolysates ; sodium hyaluronate; anti-inflammatory agents; procyannidol oligomers; vitamins, for instance vitamin A (retinol) , vitamin E (tocopherol) , vitamin C
  • vitamin B3 (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol) , vitamin B3
  • niacinamide derivatives of these vitamins (especially esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; depigmenting agents such as kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and its derivatives; CC-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and derivatives thereof; retinoids such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; hydrocortisone; melatonin; algal extracts, fungal extracts, plant extracts, yeast extracts or bacterial extracts; steroids; antibacterial active agents, for instance 2, 4, 4' -trichloro-2' -hydroxydiphenyl ether (or triclosan) , 3, 4, 4 ' -trichlorocarbanilide (or triclocarban) and the acids indicated above, and especially salicylic acid and its derivatives; tensioning agents; ceramides; essential oils; and mixtures thereof; and any active agent that is suitable for the final aim of the composition.
  • depigmenting agents such as kojic acid
  • the UV-screening agents that can be used in the composition of the invention are organic. They may be present in an amount, as active material, ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight and better still 0.2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition .
  • UV-A-active and/or UV-B-active organic screening agents examples that may be mentioned include derivatives containing a sulphonic function, such as sulphone-containing or sulphonate- containing derivatives of benzylidenecamphor, of benzophenone or of phenylbenzimidazole, more particularly benzylidenecamphor derivatives, for instance benzene-1, 4-bis (3-methylidenecamphor-10- sulphonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidenedicamphor- sulphonic acid) manufactured under the name MEXORYL SX by Chimex, 3-benzylidenecamphor-4' -sulphonic acid (INCI name: Benzylidenecamphorsulphonic acid), manufactured under the name MEXORYL SL by Chimex, 2- [4- (camphor- methylidene) phenyl ] benzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid and phen
  • compositions described above may be packaged, in a known manner, in a single-compartment bottle. The user must then shake the bottle before pouring on some of the contents thereof to a pad of cotton wool.
  • the product may also be packed in a bottle of the "pump dispenser" type. Provision may also be made for the two phases of the composition to be introduced into two independent compartments of the same bottle, a system being provided to mix them together at the time of dispensing.
  • Such devices are described, for example, in documents EP-A-497 256 and FR-A-2 697 233.
  • composition according to the invention may be used for any topical application; especially, it may constitute a cosmetic or dermatological composition. It may be used in particular to care for, cleanse and/or remove makeup from the skin, the lips and/or the eyes, and also as a haircare composition.
  • Another subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition as defined above to care for, remove makeup from and/or cleanse the skin, the lips and/or the eyes, and/or for haircare.
  • Another subject of the present invention is a cosmetic method for removing makeup from, cleansing and/or caring for the skin, the lips and/or the eyes, characterized in that a cosmetic composition as defined above is applied to the skin, the lips and/or the eyes.
  • Another subject of the present invention is a cosmetic haircare method, characterized in that a cosmetic composition as defined above is applied to the hair .
  • the example below of compositions according to the invention is given for illustrative purposes and with no limiting nature. The amounts therein are given as percentages by weight, unless otherwise mentioned.
  • compositions which, at rest, comprise an aqueous phase and an oily phase that are separate, coloured and transparent. By shaking, the two phases give a transparent composition that has a clear interface and a demixing time that allows good removal of makeup from the skin, lips and eyes.
  • compositions are obtained that comprise an aqueous phase and an oily phase that are separate and transparent with a very clear interface. After shaking, the mixture of two phases is perfectly transparent and phase separates rapidly. Comparative Example 3 : Two-phase compositions
  • the amount of glycerol was adjusted so that the refractive indices of the aqueous and oily phases were close.
  • Undecane/Tridecane mixture (in 30% which undecane is majority in the mixture) , as prepared according to
  • compositions A and B each comprise an aqueous phase and an oily phase that are separate and transparent. After shaking, the two phases of compositions A and B give a transparent mixture. The mixture of the two phases of composition A phase separates much more rapidly than the mixture of the two phases of composition B.
  • Example 4 Two-phase composition for the bath or fragrancing
  • the glycerol content was adjusted so that the refractive indices of the aqueous and oily phases were close.
  • compositions A and B each comprise an aqueous phase and an oily phase that are separate and transparent. After shaking, the two phases of compositions A and B give a transparent mixture. The mixture of the two phases of composition A phase separates much more rapidly than the mixture of the two phases of composition B.

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition for topical application, constituted of a hydrophilic phase and of an oily phase that are separate and transparent, the hydrophilic phase comprising at least 40% by weight of one or more polyols relative to the weight of the hydrophilic phase and the oily phase comprising at least 5% by weight of one or more non-silicone oils relative to the weight of the oily phase, the amounts of polyols and of non-silicone oils being such that the refractive indices of the oily and hydrophilic phases are substantially equal, said composition comprising less than 4% by weight of silicone oils relative to the total weight of the composition and the amount of surfactant in the composition being less than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The two separate phases are transparent and have a clear interface, and, on agitating, these two transparent phases form a single phase that is also transparent.

Description

Silicone-free transparent: two-phase composition
One subject of the present invention is a composition for topical application, constituted of two separate phases, a hydrophilic phase and an oily phase, that emulsify readily by agitation giving a clear, that is to say transparent, composition, and the use of said composition for makeup removal, cleansing and/or care of the skin, lips and/or eyes, and/or for care of the hair.
The compositions of this type constituted of two separate phases, especially of a hydrophilic aqueous phase and of an oily phase, are generally referred to by the term "two-phase composition". They differ from emulsions by the fact that at rest the two phases are separate instead of being emulsified in one another. Thus, the two phases are separated at rest by a single interface whereas, in emulsions, one of the phases is dispersed in the other in the form of a multitude of droplets, and the interfaces are therefore multiple, these interfaces generally being stabilized by emulsifying surfactants and/or emulsifying polymers. The use of two-phase compositions requires prior agitation in order to form an extemporaneous emulsion. This must be of sufficient quality and stability to allow a homogeneous application of the two phases, but such that at rest, the two phases rapidly separate and regain their initial state, this phenomenon being better known by the term "phase separation".
Two-phase compositions have already been described, for example, in documents EP-A-370 856 and EP-A-603 080, especially for removing makeup from the eyes.
A number of these two-phase compositions form, after agitation, an opaque emulsion, a mixture of two phases that are immiscible in one another. However, these compositions are generally presented in transparent containers, and the opacity of the two emulsified phases is aesthetically harmful. Moreover, it is increasingly sought to use transparent compositions because, just like water, the transparency is a symbol of purity and therefore of cleanliness, and transparent compositions are thus particularly appreciated by the users.
The use, in two-phase compositions, of silicone oils such as for example cyclopentasiloxane make it possible to obtain compositions that form, after agitation, a transparent mixture of two immiscible phases.
However, it is difficult, or even impossible, to obtain a transparent mixture when the two phases are not miscible, without using silicone oils.
Consumers are increasingly seeking cosmetic products formed from/that comprise natural constituents or constituents of natural origin, in particular products that do not comprise silicone compounds. There is therefore still a need for a two-phase composition constituted of two separate immiscible phases which, after agitation, gives a transparent emulsion, while retaining the properties desired for two-phase compositions, that is to say a rapid phase separation into two transparent phases and which is substantially free of silicone compounds.
Surprisingly, the Applicant has found that it was possible to obtain a transparent two-phase composition which, after agitation, gives a transparent emulsion and which phase separates again rapidly into two transparent phases, having a perfectly clear interface, by using a hydrophilic phase comprising one or more polyols in a sufficient amount and an oily phase comprising one or more non-silicone oils in a sufficient amount.
More particularly, one subject of the invention is a composition for topical application, constituted of a hydrophilic phase and of an oily phase that are separate and transparent, the hydrophilic phase comprising at least 40% by weight of one or more polyols relative to the total weight of the hydrophilic phase and the oily phase comprising at least 5% by weight of one or more non-silicone oils relative to the total weight of the oily phase, the amounts of polyols and of non-silicone oils being such that the refractive indices of the oily and hydrophilic phases are substantially equal, said composition comprising less than 4% by weight of silicone oils relative to the total weight of the composition and the amount of surfactant in the composition being less than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition .
Since the composition according to the invention is intended for a topical application, it contains a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium that is compatible with the skin, the mucosae, the hair and the scalp.
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic phase and one oily phase that are separate. These two phases are separate, that is to say that they are visible, one on top of the other, at rest, and the interface between the two is perfectly clear. They are transparent at rest, and when the composition is agitated before it is used, the mixture obtained constituted of the emulsion of one phase in the other is transparent. The two phases may or may not be coloured. Moreover, the use of a relatively high polyol content makes it possible to be partially or completely free of the presence of preservatives in the composition according to the invention.
The refractive indices of the hydrophilic phase and of the oily phase are substantially equal, the word "substantially" meaning that the difference between the refractive indices of the two phases does not exceed 0.005 and therefore that the refractive indices of the two phases are equal to within 0.005. The refractive indices of these phases are generally of around 1.39 to 1.48, these indices being measured at ambient temperature (20 to 25°C) .
The word "transparent" means that the composition has a turbidity of less than or equal to 300 NTU. The transparency of a composition can be measured by its turbidity, and the NTUs (nephelometric turbidity units) are the units for measuring the turbidity of a composition. The turbidity measurement may be carried out, for example, with a 2100P model turbidimeter from Hach Company, the tubes used for the measurement having the reference AR397A cat 24347-06. The measurements are carried out at ambient temperature (200C to 25°C) . The composition of the invention has a turbidity generally ranging from 2 to 300 NTU, and preferably from 5 to 200 NTU.
Hydrophilic phase
The hydrophilic phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least 40% of polyols relative to the total weight of the hydrophilic phase. Thus, the amount of polyols is preferably at least 10 by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and it may range, for example, from 10 to 90% by weight and preferably from 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The term "polyol" should be understood to mean any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. As polyols, mention may be made, for example, of glycerol, glycols such as butylene glycol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose, and mixtures thereof. According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyol chosen is glycerol, dipropylene glycol or mixtures thereof, or a mixture of glycerol and/or of dipropylene glycol and of one or more other polyols especially chosen from those indicated above: butylene glycol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars, methylpropanediol and 1, 3-propanediol and mixtures thereof.
Besides the polyols, the hydrophilic phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise water and any water-soluble or water-dispersible additive. The water used may be sterile demineralized water and/or a floral water such as rose water, cornflower water, camomile water or lime water, and/or a natural thermal or mineral water such as, for example: water from Vittel, water from the Vichy basin, water from Uriage, water from La Roche Posay, water from La Bourboule, water from Enghien-les-Bains, water from Saint Gervais-les-Bains, water from Neris-les- Bains, water from Allevar-les-Bains, water from Digne, water from Maizieres, water from Neyrac-les-Bains, water from Lons-le-Saunier, water from Eaux Bonnes, water from Rochefort, water from Saint Christau, water from Les Fumades, water from Tercis-les-Bains or water from Avene . The hydrophilic phase may also comprise reconstituted thermal water, that is to say a water comprising trace elements such as zinc, copper, magnesium, etc., reconstituting the characteristics of a thermal water.
The hydrophilic phase may also comprise a primary alcohol, that is to say an alcohol comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol. This is preferably ethanol. This alcohol may be present in an amount ranging, for example, from 0.01 to 40% by weight and preferably from 0.1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The addition of such an alcohol may be especially appropriate when the composition according to the invention is used as a product for the body or the hair .
Preferably, the weight ratio between the hydrophilic phase and the oily phase ranges from 25/75 to 90/10, preferably from 30/70 to 70/30, better still from 40/60 to 60/40 and even better still from 45/55 to 55/45. The hydrophilic phase therefore generally represents from 25 to 90% by weight, preferably from 30 to 70% by weight, better still from 40 to 60% by weight and even better still from 45 to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Oily phase
The oily phase generally represents from 10 to 75% and preferably from 30 to 70% by weight, better still from 40 to 60% by weight and even better still from 45 to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition . The oily phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least 5% of one or more non- silicone oils relative to the total weight of the oily phase. Relative to the total weight of the composition, the amount of non-silicone oil (s) is preferably at least 1% by weight, and this amount may range, for example, from 1 to 70% by weight, preferably from 5 to 65% by weight, better still from 10 to 60% by weight and even better still from 20 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of silicone oils relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 3%, more preferably less than 2%, better still less than 1% by weight and even better still less than 0.5% by weight of silicone oils. In particular, it is free of silicone oils.
The expression "silicone oil" is understood to mean an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and especially containing Si-O groups. As silicone oils, mention may be made, for example, of volatile silicone oils such as cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: cyclomethicone) , such as cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopenta- siloxane, and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane; linear silicones such as heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, and dodecamethylpentasiloxane; non-volatile silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) , and phenylated polymethylsiloxanes such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl- siloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyl- diphenyltrisiloxanes, 2 -phenylethyltrimethylsiloxy- silicates and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; polysiloxanes modified by fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.
The composition according to the invention may comprise, as a non-silicone oil, volatile or nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils.
The expression "hydrocarbon-based oil" is understood to mean an oil formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and that does not contain silicon or fluorine atoms; it may contain ester, ether, amine or amide groups.
The term "volatile" is understood to mean a compound capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil that is liquid at ambient temperature, especially that has a non-zero vapour pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular that has a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10~3 to 300 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg) . As non-silicone oils that can be used in the composition of the invention mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as perhydrosqualene, liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or else, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soya bean oil, pumpkin oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, coriander oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil; synthetic esters and ethers, especially of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulae R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a branched or unbranched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, or isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates or decanoates; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters, such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; volatile or non-volatile linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, and derivatives thereof, such as liquid petroleum jelly and hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® oil; Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes or isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins) , isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, such as for example the isoparaffins sold under the trade names Isopar by Exxon Chemical or the oils sold under the trade names Permethyl by Presperse; and mixtures thereof; volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms such as undecane and tridecane; fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature and that have from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol.
According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one non-silicone oil chosen from the following hydrocarbon-based oils: fatty acid esters comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate or 2-octyldodecyl stearate; linear hydrocarbons such as Parleam® oil and liquid petroleum jelly; hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin such as apricot kernel oil, essential oils, fragrances, volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms such as undecane, tridecane, Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes such as isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane .
According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a hydrophilic phase and an oily phase that are separate and transparent, the hydrophilic phase comprising at least 40% by weight of one or more polyols relative to the total weight of the hydrophilic phase and the oily phase comprising at least 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the oily phase, of one or more non- silicone oils chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 14 carbon atoms, the amounts of polyols and of volatile linear alkanes being such that the refractive indices of the oily and hydrophilic phases are substantially equal.
Thus, according to one embodiment, one subject of the invention is a composition for topical application, constituted of a hydrophilic phase and of an oily phase that are separate and transparent, the hydrophilic phase comprising at least 40% by weight of one or more polyols relative to the total weight of the hydrophilic phase and the oily phase comprising at least 5% by weight of one or more non-silicone oils chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 14 carbon atoms, the amounts of polyols and of volatile linear alkanes being such that the refractive indices of the oily and hydrophilic phases are substantially equal. Advantageously, this composition comprises less than 4% by weight of silicone oils, as cited above, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, this composition has an amount (as active materials) of surfactant less than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still less than 1% by weight. It may be free of surfactants.
A volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention is liquid at ambient temperature (around 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
The expression "volatile linear alkane", suitable for the invention, is understood to mean a cosmetic linear alkane capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature
(25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, that is to say 101 325 Pa) , that is liquid at ambient temperature, and that has, in particular, an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 15 mg/cm2/min at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg/cm2/min at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 1.5 mg/cm2/min at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
More preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.8 mg/cm2/min at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) . More preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.3 mg/cm2/min at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
More preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.12 mg/cm2/min at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
The evaporation rate of a volatile alkane according to the invention (and more generally of a volatile solvent) may especially be evaluated by means of the protocol described in WO 06/013413, and more particularly by means of the protocol described below.
Introduced into a crystallizing dish (diameter: 7 cm) , placed on a balance that is located in a chamber of around 0.3 m3, the temperature (25°C) and hygrometry
(50% relative humidity) of which are regulated, are
15 g of volatile hydrocarbon-based solvent.
The liquid is left to evaporate freely, without being stirred, ventilation being provided by a fan
(PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical position above the crystallizing dish containing the volatile hydrocarbon-based solvent, the blades being directed towards the crystallizing dish, at a distance of 20 cm relative to the base of the crystallizing dish.
The mass of volatile hydrocarbon-based solvent remaining in the crystallizing dish is measured at regular time intervals. The evaporation profile of the solvent is then obtained by plotting the curve of the amounts of product evaporated (in mg/cm2) as a function of the time (in min) .
Then the evaporation rate, which corresponds to the tangent at the origin of the curve obtained, is calculated. The evaporation rates are expressed as mg of volatile solvent evaporated per unit area (cm2) and per unit time (minutes) .
According to one preferred embodiment, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have a non-zero vapour pressure (also known as saturation vapour pressure) at ambient temperature, in particular a vapour pressure ranging from 0.3 Pa to 6000 Pa. Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have a vapour pressure ranging from 0.3 to 2000 Pa at ambient temperature (25°C) . Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have a vapour pressure ranging from 0.3 to 1000 Pa at ambient temperature (25°C) .
More preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have a vapour pressure ranging from 0.4 to 600 Pa at ambient temperature (25°C) .
Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have a vapour pressure ranging from 1 to 200 Pa at ambient temperature (25°C) .
More preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have a vapour pressure ranging from 3 to 60 Pa at ambient temperature (25°C) .
According to one embodiment, a linear volatile alkane suitable for the invention may have a flashpoint in the range that varies from 30 to 1200C, and more particularly from 40 to 1000C. The flashpoint is, in particular, measured according to the ISO 3679 standard. The volatile linear alkanes comprise from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, in particular from 7 to 15 carbon atoms, better still from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms.
The volatile linear alkanes in accordance with the invention may advantageously be of plant origin.
According to one embodiment, an alkane suitable for the invention may be a volatile linear alkane comprising from 7 to 14 carbon atoms.
Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention comprise from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.
Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention comprise from 9 to 14 carbon atoms.
Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention comprise from 10 to 14 carbon atoms. Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention comprise from 11 to 14 carbon atoms.
According to one advantageous embodiment, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate, as defined above, ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg/cm2/min at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and comprise from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.
A volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may advantageously be of plant origin.
Preferably, the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes present in the composition according to the invention comprises at least one 14C isotope of carbon (carbon-14), in particular the 14C isotope may be present in a 14C/12C ratio greater than or equal to 1 X 10~16, preferably greater than or equal to 1 X 10~15, more preferably greater than or equal to 7.5 X 10~14, and better still greater than or equal to 1.5 X 10~13. Preferably, the 14CV12C ratio ranges from 6 X 10"13 to 1.2 X 10"12.
The amount of 14C isotopes in the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes may be determined by methods known to a person skilled in the art such as the Libby counting method, liquid scintillation spectrometry or else accelerator mass spectrometry.
Such alkanes may be obtained, directly or in several steps, from a plant raw material such as an oil, a butter, a wax, etc. As examples of volatile linear alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of those described in patent application WO 2007/068371 or WO 2008/155059 by Cognis (mixtures of different alkanes that differ by at least one carbon) . These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols that are themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil .
By way of example of a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (Cg), n-decane (Cio) , n-undecane (Cn) , n-dodecane (C12) , n-tridecane (C13) , n-tetradecane (Ci4) , n-pentadecane (Ci5) , n-hexadecane (Ciε) and n-heptadecane (Ci7) and mixtures thereof. According to one particular embodiment, the volatile linear alkane is chosen from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof.
According to one preferred mode, mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (Cn) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008/155059 by Cognis.
Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (Ci4) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, and also mixtures thereof.
The volatile linear alkane could be used alone.
Alternatively or preferably a mixture of at least two different volatile linear alkanes could be used, that differ from one another by a carbon number n of at least 1, in particular that differ from one another by a carbon number of 1 or 2.
According to a first embodiment, use is made of a mixture of at least two different volatile linear alkanes comprising from 10 to 14 carbon atoms that differ from one another by a carbon number of at least
1. By way of examples, mention may especially be made of the Cio/Cii, C11/C12 or C12/C13 mixtures of volatile linear alkanes. According to another embodiment, use is made of a mixture of at least two different volatile linear alkanes comprising from 10 to 14 carbon atoms that differ from one another by a carbon number of at least
2. By way of examples, mention may especially be made of the C10/C12 or C12/C14 mixtures of volatile linear alkanes, for an even carbon number n and the C11/C13 mixture for an odd carbon number n.
According to one preferred mode, use is made of a mixture of at least two different volatile linear alkanes comprising from 10 to 14 carbon atoms that differ from one another by a carbon number of at least 2, and in particular a C11/C13 mixture of volatile linear alkanes or a C12/C14 mixture of the volatile linear alkanes . Other mixtures combining more than 2 volatile linear alkanes according to the invention, such as for example a mixture of at least 3 different volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 14 carbon atoms that differ from one another by a carbon number of at least 1, are also part of the invention, but the mixtures with 2 volatile linear alkanes according to the invention are preferred (binary mixtures), said 2 volatile linear alkanes preferably representing more than 95% and better still more than 99% by weight of the total content of volatile linear alkanes in the mixture. According to one particular mode of the invention, in a mixture of volatile linear alkanes, the volatile linear alkane having the smallest carbon number is predominant in the mixture.
According to another mode of the invention, use is made of a mixture of volatile linear alkanes in which the volatile linear alkane having the highest carbon number is predominant in the mixture. By way of examples of mixtures suitable for the invention, mention may especially be made of the following mixtures: from 50 to 90% by weight, preferably from 55 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 60 to 75% by weight of Cn volatile linear alkane with n ranging from 7 to 14; from 10 to 50% by weight, preferably from 20 to
45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40% by weight of Cn+X volatile linear alkane with x greater than or equal to 1, preferably x = 1 or x = 2, with n + x between 8 and 14, relative to the total weight of alkanes in said mixture .
In particular, said mixture of alkanes according to the invention contains: less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, of branched hydrocarbons; and/or less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, of aromatic hydrocarbons; and/or less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and preferentially less than 0.1% by weight of unsaturated hydrocarbons in the mixture. More particularly, a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may be used in the form of an n-undecane/n-tridecane mixture.
In particular, use will be made of a mixture of volatile linear alkanes comprising: - from 55 to 80% by weight, preferably from 60 to 75% by weight, of Cu (n-undecane) volatile linear alkane; from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40% by weight, of C13 (n-tridecane) volatile linear alkane relative to the total weight of alkanes in said mixture .
According to one particular embodiment, the mixture of alkanes is an n-undecane/n-tridecane mixture. In particular, such a mixture may be obtained according to Example 1 or Example 2 of WO 2008/155059.
According to another particular embodiment, use is made of the n-dodecane sold under the reference PARAFOL 12-97 by Sasol. According to another particular embodiment, use is made of the n-tetradecane sold under the reference PARAFOL 14-97 by Sasol.
According to yet another embodiment, use is made of a mixture of n-dodecane and of n-tetradecane. The composition of the invention may comprise from 5% to 50% by weight of volatile linear alkane (s), in particular from 5 to 40% by weight of volatile linear alkane (s), and more particularly from 5 to 30% of volatile linear alkane (s) relative to the total weight of the composition.
In the composition of the invention, all oils taken together, the total amount of oil (s) may range, for example, from 10 to 70% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and the total amount of volatile oils may range, for example, from 5 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 40% by weight and better still from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Surfactant
The two-phase composition may optionally comprise at least one surfactant in one or the other of the phases. When it contains a surfactant, this may be of the anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric type, but it is preferably of the non-ionic and/or anionic type. It is preferably present in the hydrophilic phase.
The amount of surfactant (s) , as active material, is preferably such that the two phases remain separate at rest and do not mix together to form an emulsion. This amount is generally less than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still, less than 1% by weight. It may range, for example, from 0.01 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 1.5% by weight, preferably from 0.025 to 1% by weight and better still from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of surfactant.
Mention may be made, among non-ionic surfactants, of: polyoxyethylenated sorbitol fatty esters such as the product sold under the name TWEEN 20 by ICI; polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols such as the product sold under the name REMCOPAL 21912 AL by Gerland; polyoxyethylenated alkylphenols such as the product sold under the name TRITON X 100 by Rδhm-Haas; and condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide such as those sold under the names SYNPERONIC PE by ICI and in particular those referenced L 31, L 64, F 38 , F 8 8 , L 92 , P 1 03 , F 1 0 8 and F 127 ; esters of fatty acids and of glycerol or of polyglycerol such as for example glyceryl isostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, and glyceryl caprylate; - ethers of polyethylene glycol and/or of polypropylene glycol, and of glycerol such as glycereth-7, glycereth-26 and PPG-24 glycereth-24 ; esters derived from the reaction a) of fatty acids and b) polyethylene glycol and/or polypropylene glycol glycerol ethers such as, for example, glycereth-2 cocoate and glycereth-25 PCA isostearate; esters of sucrose and of fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 14 to 20 carbon atoms, said esters possibly comprising from 2 to 5 fatty chains, such as for example sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate and sucrose palmitate; alkylpolyglucosides, preferably those that contain an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and that contain a hydrophilic group (glucoside) preferably comprising 1.2 to 3 sugar units. Mention may be made, for example, of decyl glucoside (Alkyl-C9/Cll-polyglucoside (1.4)) such as the product sold under the name MYDOL 10® by Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name PLANTAREN 2000 UP® by Cognis, and the product sold under the name ORAMIX NS 10® by Seppic; caprylyl/capryl glucoside such as the product sold under the name ORAMIX CG 110® by Seppic; laurylglucoside such as the products sold under the names PLANTAREN 1200 N® and PLANTACARE 1200® by Cognis; and cocoglucoside such as the product sold under the name PLANTACARE 818/UP® by Cognis, cetostearylglucoside optionally as a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol sold, for example, under the name MONTANOV 68 by Seppic under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE3302 by Henkel; arachidylglucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidyl and behenyl alcohols and of arachidylglucoside sold under the name MONTANOV 202 by Seppic; cocoylethylglucoside, for example in the form of the (35/65) mixture with cetyl and stearyl alcohols, sold under the name MONTANOV 82 by Seppic and mixtures thereof .
Mention may in particular be made, among anionic surfactants, of:
- alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates and their salts, in particular their sodium salts, such as the Sodium Laureth Sulphate/Magnesium Laureth Sulphate/ Sodium Laureth-8 Sulphate/Magnesium Laureth-8 Sulphate mixture sold under the name TEXAPON ASV by Henkel; sodium lauryl ether sulphate (C12-14 70/30) (2.2 EO), sold under the names SIPON AOS 225 or TEXAPON N702 PASTE by Henkel; ammonium lauryl ether sulphate (C12-14 70/30) (3 EO) sold under the name SIPON LEA 370 by Henkel; ammonium alkyl (C12-C14) ether (9 EO) sulphate, sold under the name RHODAPEX AB/20 by Rhodia Chimie;
- alkyl sulphoacetates, such as that sold under the name LATHANOL LAL by Stepan;
- alkyl sulphosuccinates, for example the oxyethylenated (3 EO) lauryl alcohol (C12/C14 70/30) monosulphosuccinate sold under the names SETACIN 103 SPECIAL or REWOPOL SB-FA 30 K 4 by Witco, the disodium salt of a hemisulphosuccinate of C12-C14 alcohols sold under the name SETACIN F SPECIAL PASTE by Zschimmer Schwarz, the oxyethylenated (2 EO) disodium oleamidosulphosuccinate sold under the name STANDAPOL SH 135 by Henkel, the oxyethylenated (5 EO) lauramide monosulphosuccinate sold under the name LEBON A-5000 by Sanyo, the disodium salt of oxyethylenated (10 EO) lauryl citrate monosulphosuccinate sold under the name REWOPOL SB CS 50 by Witco or the disodium salt of ricinoleic acid monoethanolamide monosulphosuccinate sold under the name REWODERM S 1333 by Witco;
- polypeptides which are obtained, for example, by condensation of a fatty chain with cereal amino acids and in particular wheat and oat amino acids, such as, for example, the potassium salt of lauroyl hydrolysed wheat protein sold under the name AMINOFOAM W OR by Croda, the triethanolamine salt of cocoyl hydrolysed soya protein sold under the name MAY-TEIN SY by Maybrook, the sodium salt of lauroyl oat amino acids sold under the name PROTEOL OAT by Seppic, the hydrolysate of collagen grafted to coconut fatty acid sold under the name GELIDERM 3000 by Deutsche Gelatine or the soya proteins acylated with hydrogenated coconut acids sold under the name PROTEOL VS 22 by Seppic;
- amino acid derivatives, for example among sarcosinates and in particular acylsarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sold under the name SARKOSYL NL 97 by Ciba or sold under the name ORAMIX L 30 by Seppic, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE MN by Nikkol, or sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE PN by Nikkol; alaninates, such as sodium N- lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate, sold under the name SODIUM NIKKOL ALANINATE LN 30 by Nikkol or sold under the name ALANONE ALE by Kawaken, and triethanolamine N- lauroyl-N-methylalanine, sold under the name ALANONE ALTA by Kawaken; N-acylglutamates, such as triethanolamine monococoyl glutamate, sold under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE CT- 12 by Ajinomoto, and triethanolamine lauroyl glutamate, sold under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE LT-12 by Ajinomoto; aspartates, such as the mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroyl aspartate and of triethanolamine N-myristoyl aspartate sold under the name ASPARACK LM-TS2 by Mitsubishi; or glycine derivatives, such as sodium N-cocoyl glycinate and potassium N-cocoyl glycinate, for example the products sold under the names AMILITE GCS-12 and AMILITE GCK-12 by Ajinomoto;
- sulphonates, for example α-olefin sulphonates, such as the sodium α-olefin (C14-16) sulphonate sold under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40 by Stepan, sold under the names WITCONATE AOS PROTEGE and SULFRAMINE AOS PH 12 by Witco or sold under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40 CG by Stepan or the sodium secondary olefin sulphonate sold under the name HOSTAPUR SAS 30 by Clariant; or linear alkylarylsulphonates, such as the sodium xylenesulphonate sold under the names MANROSOL SXS30, MANROSOL SXS40 or MANROSOL SXS 93 by Manro;
- isethionates, in particular acyl isethionates, such as sodium cocoyl isethionate, for example the product sold under the name JORDAPON CI P by Jordan.
Mention may in particular be made, among amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, of:
- alkylamido alkylamine derivatives, such as N-disodium N-cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N- (carboxymethyl) - ethylenediamine (CTFA name: Disodium cocoamphodiacetate) , sold as a saline aqueous solution under the name MIRANOL C2M CONC NP by Rhodia Chimie; N- sodium N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N- (carboxymethyl) ethylenediamine (CTFA name: sodium coco- amphoacetate) and the mixture of coconut acid ethanolamides (CTFA name: Cocamide DEA);
- betaines, such as, for example, coco betaine, such as the product sold under the name DEHYTON AB-30 by Henkel, lauryl betaine, such as the product sold under the name GENAGEN KB by Clariant, oxyethylenated (10 EO) lauryl betaine, such as the product sold under the name LAURYL ETHER (10 EO) BETAINE by Shin Nihon Rica, or oxyethylenated (10 EO) stearyl betaine, such as the product sold under the name STEARYL ETHER (10 EO) BETAINE by Shin Nihon Rica;
- alkyl amidopropyl betaines and their derivatives, such as, for example, cocamidopropyl betaine, sold under the name LEBON 2000 HG by Sanyo or sold under the name EMPIGEN BB by Albright & Wilson, lauramidopropyl betaine, sold under the name REWOTERIC AMB12P by Witco, such as cocamidopropyl betaine, for example the products sold under the names TEGO BETAINE by Goldschmidt ;
- imidazoline derivatives, such as the product sold under the name CHIMEXANE HD by Chimex; and
- their mixtures. Adjuvants
The composition according to the invention may also contain conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives which will be found in one or the other phase depending on their hydrophilic or lipophilic nature, such as for example hydrophilic gelling agents, preservatives and bactericidal agents, dyes, softeners, buffers, humectants, UV-screening agents (or sunscreens) , electrolytes such as sodium chloride or a pH regulator, for example citric acid or sodium hydroxide, and mixtures thereof.
Depending on the viscosity desired for the composition according to the invention, it is possible to incorporate therein one or more hydrophilic gelling agents. As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may be made, for example, of modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers such as the products sold under the names CARBOPOL (INCI name: carbomer) by Noveon; polyacrylamides ; homopolymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, which are optionally crosslinked and/or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) sold by Clariant under the name HOSTACERIN AMPS (INCI name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) ; polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, alginates, modified or unmodified celluloses; and mixtures thereof. When they are present, these gelling agents should be introduced in an amount such that they do not modify the properties of the composition according to the invention. As lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of alkene copolymers such as, for example, the block copolymers of diblock, triblock or radial type of the polystyrene/polyisoprene type, polystyrene/polybutadiene type such as those sold under the name LUVITOL HSB® by BASF, of the polystyrene/copoly (ethylene-propylene) type such as those sold under the name KRATON® by Shell Chemical Co. or else of the polystyrene/copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, blends of triblock and radial (star-shaped) copolymers in isododecane such as those sold by Penreco under the name VERSAGEL® such as for example the blend of butylene/ethylene/styrene triblock copolymer and of ethylene/propylene/styrene star-shaped copolymer in isododecane (VERSAGEL M 5960) .
The gelling agent may be present in a content of active material that ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
As preservatives, it is possible to use any preservative customarily used in the fields in question, such as for example parabens and chlorhexidine gluconate.
As a bactericidal agent, it is possible, for example, to use a glycerol mono (C3-C9) alkyl or (C3-C9) alkenyl ether, the manufacture of which is described in the literature, in particular in E. Baer, H. O. L. Fischer - J. Biol. Chem. 140-397-1941. Among these glycerol mono (C3-C9) alkyl or (C3-C9) alkenyl ethers, 3- [ (2-ethylhexyl) oxy] -1, 2-propanediol, 3- [ (heptyl) oxy] - 1, 2-propanediol, 3- [ (octyl) oxy] -1, 2-propanediol and 3- [ (allyl) oxy] -1, 2-propanediol are preferably used. A glycerol mono (C3-C9) alkyl ether that is more particularly preferred according to the present invention is 3- [ (2-ethylhexyl) oxy] -1, 2-propanediol, sold by Schulke & Mayr GmbH under the trade name SENSIVA SC 50 (INCI name: Ethylhexylglycerin) . Among the softeners, mention may in particular be made of allantoin and bisabolol, planktons, and certain plant extracts such as extracts of rose and extracts of sweet clover.
According to the invention, the composition may also comprise, preferably in the hydrophilic phase, a phase separation agent in a proportion ranging, for example, from 0.025 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
As a phase separation agent, mention may be made, for example, of alkyldimethylbenzylammonium chlorides as described in document EP-A-603 080, and especially benzalkonium chloride, and mixtures containing it; alkoxylated alkyl glucosides comprising a quaternary ammonium group and especially lauryl methyl gluceth-10 hydroxypropyl dimonium chloride as described in document EP-A-847 746; polymers and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and especially the polyvinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymer as described in document WO-A-99/56704 ; and mixtures thereof.
When such an agent is present, the ratio between the surfactant and the phase separation agent preferably ranges from 0.005/1 to 200/1 and better still from 0.01/1 to 120/1. As active agents that may be used in the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include enzymes (for example lactoperoxidase, lipase, protease, phospholipase and cellulases) ; flavonoids; moisturizers such as protein hydrolysates ; sodium hyaluronate; anti-inflammatory agents; procyannidol oligomers; vitamins, for instance vitamin A (retinol) , vitamin E (tocopherol) , vitamin C
(ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol) , vitamin B3
(niacinamide) , derivatives of these vitamins (especially esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; depigmenting agents such as kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and its derivatives; CC-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and derivatives thereof; retinoids such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; hydrocortisone; melatonin; algal extracts, fungal extracts, plant extracts, yeast extracts or bacterial extracts; steroids; antibacterial active agents, for instance 2, 4, 4' -trichloro-2' -hydroxydiphenyl ether (or triclosan) , 3, 4, 4 ' -trichlorocarbanilide (or triclocarban) and the acids indicated above, and especially salicylic acid and its derivatives; tensioning agents; ceramides; essential oils; and mixtures thereof; and any active agent that is suitable for the final aim of the composition.
The UV-screening agents that can be used in the composition of the invention are organic. They may be present in an amount, as active material, ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight of active material, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight and better still 0.2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition .
As examples of UV-A-active and/or UV-B-active organic screening agents that may be added to the composition of the invention, examples that may be mentioned include derivatives containing a sulphonic function, such as sulphone-containing or sulphonate- containing derivatives of benzylidenecamphor, of benzophenone or of phenylbenzimidazole, more particularly benzylidenecamphor derivatives, for instance benzene-1, 4-bis (3-methylidenecamphor-10- sulphonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidenedicamphor- sulphonic acid) manufactured under the name MEXORYL SX by Chimex, 3-benzylidenecamphor-4' -sulphonic acid (INCI name: Benzylidenecamphorsulphonic acid), manufactured under the name MEXORYL SL by Chimex, 2- [4- (camphor- methylidene) phenyl ] benzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid and phenylbenzimidazolesulphonic acid (INCI name: Phenyl- benzimidazolesulphonic acid), sold under the name EUSOLEX 232 by Merck; para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives; salicylic derivatives such as ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN OS by Haarmann & Reimer; dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane sold especially under the trade name PARSOL 1789 by Hoffmann La Roche; cinnamic derivatives such as ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold especially under the trade name PARSOL MCX by Hoffmann La Roche; β, β' -diphenylacrylate derivatives such as octocrylene (2-ethylhexyl CC-cyano-β, β-diphenylacrylate) sold under the trade name UVINUL N539 by BASF; benzophenone derivatives such as Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name UVINUL 400 by BASF, Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name UVINUL D50 by BASF, Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name UVINUL M40 by BASF, Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name UVINUL MS40 by BASF; benzylidenecamphor derivatives such as 4-methylbenzylidenecamphor sold under the trade name EUSOLEX 6300 by Merck; phenyl- benzimidazole derivatives such as Benzimidazilate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN AP by Haarmann & Reimer; triazine derivatives such as Anisotriazine sold under the trade name TINOSORB S by Ciba Geigy and ethylhexyltriazone sold especially under the trade name UVINUL T150 by BASF; phenylbenzotriazole derivatives such as Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the trade name SILATRIZOLE by Rhodia Chimie; anthranilic derivatives such as menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN MA by Haarmann & Reimer; imidazoline derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives; and mixtures thereof.
The compositions described above may be packaged, in a known manner, in a single-compartment bottle. The user must then shake the bottle before pouring on some of the contents thereof to a pad of cotton wool. The product may also be packed in a bottle of the "pump dispenser" type. Provision may also be made for the two phases of the composition to be introduced into two independent compartments of the same bottle, a system being provided to mix them together at the time of dispensing. Such devices are described, for example, in documents EP-A-497 256 and FR-A-2 697 233.
The composition according to the invention may be used for any topical application; especially, it may constitute a cosmetic or dermatological composition. It may be used in particular to care for, cleanse and/or remove makeup from the skin, the lips and/or the eyes, and also as a haircare composition. Another subject of the invention is the cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition as defined above to care for, remove makeup from and/or cleanse the skin, the lips and/or the eyes, and/or for haircare.
Another subject of the present invention is a cosmetic method for removing makeup from, cleansing and/or caring for the skin, the lips and/or the eyes, characterized in that a cosmetic composition as defined above is applied to the skin, the lips and/or the eyes. Another subject of the present invention is a cosmetic haircare method, characterized in that a cosmetic composition as defined above is applied to the hair . The example below of compositions according to the invention is given for illustrative purposes and with no limiting nature. The amounts therein are given as percentages by weight, unless otherwise mentioned.
Example 1: Makeup-removing compositions
Figure imgf000029_0001
Procedure: The constituents of the oily phase on the one hand and those of the aqueous phase on the other hand are mixed. Then the two phases are mixed.
Compositions are obtained which, at rest, comprise an aqueous phase and an oily phase that are separate, coloured and transparent. By shaking, the two phases give a transparent composition that has a clear interface and a demixing time that allows good removal of makeup from the skin, lips and eyes. Exam le 2: Anti-UV suntan com ositions
Figure imgf000029_0002
Figure imgf000030_0001
Procedure: The constituents of the hydrophilic phase on the one hand and of the lipophilic phase on the other hand are mixed, then the two phases are mixed, these operations being carried out at ambient temperature .
Compositions are obtained that comprise an aqueous phase and an oily phase that are separate and transparent with a very clear interface. After shaking, the mixture of two phases is perfectly transparent and phase separates rapidly. Comparative Example 3 : Two-phase compositions
A two-phase composition according to the invention without silicone oil and comprising 30% of hydrocarbon- based oil, and a two-phase composition according to the prior art, comprising 30% of silicone oil, were prepared.
For each composition, the amount of glycerol was adjusted so that the refractive indices of the aqueous and oily phases were close.
A B
Aqueous phase
Glycerol 44.45% 34 .15%
Water 25.55% 35 .85%
Oily phase
Undecane/Tridecane mixture, (in 30% which undecane is majority in the mixture) , as prepared according to
Figure imgf000031_0001
The compositions A and B each comprise an aqueous phase and an oily phase that are separate and transparent. After shaking, the two phases of compositions A and B give a transparent mixture. The mixture of the two phases of composition A phase separates much more rapidly than the mixture of the two phases of composition B.
Example 4 : Two-phase composition for the bath or fragrancing
Aqueous phase
Glycerol 54.6%
Water 5.4%
Oily phase
Eucalyptus oil 40%
Comparative Example 5: Two-phase compositions
A two-phase composition according to the invention without silicone oil and comprising 30% of hydrocarbon- based oil, and a two-phase composition according to the prior art, comprising 30% of silicone oil, were prepared.
For each composition, the glycerol content was adjusted so that the refractive indices of the aqueous and oily phases were close.
Figure imgf000031_0002
The compositions A and B each comprise an aqueous phase and an oily phase that are separate and transparent. After shaking, the two phases of compositions A and B give a transparent mixture. The mixture of the two phases of composition A phase separates much more rapidly than the mixture of the two phases of composition B.

Claims

1. Composition for topical application, constituted of a hydrophilic phase and of an oily phase that are separate and transparent, the hydrophilic phase comprising at least 40% by weight of one or more polyols relative to the weight of the hydrophilic phase and the oily phase comprising at least 5% by weight of one or more non-silicone oils relative to the weight of the oily phase, the amounts of polyols and of non- silicone oils being such that the refractive indices of the oily and hydrophilic phases are substantially equal, said composition comprising less than 4% by weight of silicone oils relative to the total weight of the composition and the amount of surfactant in the composition being less than or equal to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
2. Composition for topical application, constituted of a hydrophilic phase and of an oily phase that are separate and transparent, the hydrophilic phase comprising at least 40% by weight of one or more polyols relative to the total weight of the hydrophilic phase and the oily phase comprising at least 5% by weight of one or more non-silicone oils chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms, the amounts of polyols and of volatile linear alkanes being such that the refractive indices of the oily and hydrophilic phases are substantially equal.
3. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises less than 4% by weight of silicone oils relative to the total weight of the composition.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of polyol (s) ranges from 10 to 90% by weight and preferably from 15 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyol is chosen from glycerol, glycols, sorbitol, sugars, and mixtures thereof.
6. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the glycols are chosen from methylpropanediol, 1, 3-propanediol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the hydrophilic phase and the oily phase ranges from 40/60 to 60/40, and preferably from 45/55 to 55/45.
8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of non-silicone oil (s) ranges from 1 to 70% by weight and preferably from 5 to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises less than 3%, preferably, more preferably less than 2%, better still less than 1% by weight and even better still less than 0.5% by weight of silicone oils, and best is free of silicone oils.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non- silicone oil is chosen from fatty acid esters comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate or 2-octyldodecyl stearate; linear hydrocarbons such as Parleam® oil and liquid petroleum jelly; hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin such as apricot kernel oil, essential oils, fragrances, volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms such as undecane, tridecane, Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes such as isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane .
11. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 and 3 to 10, characterized in that the non-silicone oil is chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 17 carbon atoms.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non- silicone oil is chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 7 to 14 carbon atoms and more particularly from 11 to 14 carbon atoms
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non- silicone oil is chosen from volatile linear alkanes chosen from n-heptane, n-octane, n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof .
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least two different volatile linear alkanes that differ from one another by a carbon number n of at least 1, in particular that differ from one another by a carbon number of 1 or 2.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non- silicone oil is a mixture of undecane (Cn) and of tridecane (C13) .
16. Cosmetic method for removing makeup from, cleansing and/or caring for the skin, the lips and/or the eyes or the hair, characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 15 is applied to the skin, the lips and/or the eyes.
PCT/EP2009/067284 2008-12-17 2009-12-16 Silicone-free transparent two-phase composition WO2010069995A1 (en)

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EP2444056A1 (en) 2010-08-19 2012-04-25 Henkel AG & Co. KGaA Sprayable two-phase hair conditioner
JP2012224560A (en) * 2011-04-16 2012-11-15 Tamari Kagaku Kk Double-layer type cosmetic
CN104640534A (en) * 2012-07-16 2015-05-20 欧莱雅 Two-phase composition containing an alkylpolyglucoside and an ester with a melting point of less than 10 DEG C
US8486425B1 (en) 2012-08-08 2013-07-16 L'oreal Two-phase sunscreen composition
EP3062761B1 (en) 2013-10-29 2018-06-06 L'oreal Two-phase composition comprising a fatty acid ester of sugar or a liquid alkyl polyglucoside, with an hlb<8, and a c8-c18 branched alkane
JP2016535047A (en) * 2013-10-29 2016-11-10 ロレアル A two-phase composition comprising a fatty acid ester of a sugar having an HLB of less than 8 or a liquid alkylpolyglucoside and a C8-C18 branched alkane
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