BR112014000318B1 - COMPOSITION, NON THERAPEUTIC COSMETIC USE AND NON THERAPEUTIC SKIN AND / OR MAKEUP CARE METHOD - Google Patents

Abstract

composition, non-therapeutic cosmetic use and non-therapeutic method of skin care and / or makeup. The present invention relates to a composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium containing at least one coloring agent; and at least one jasmonic acid derivative compound, wherein said composition is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion and said aqueous phase represents 40% to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

Description

“NON-THERAPEUTIC COMPOSITION, COSMETIC USE AND NON-THERAPEUTIC SKIN CARE AND / OR MAKE-UP METHOD” Field of the Invention [001] The present invention relates to makeup and / or skin care compositions. More specifically, the invention relates to cosmetic compositions in the form of water-in-oil emulsions, which include a derivative of jasmonic acid.

Background of the Invention [002] Consumers look for cosmetic skin care or makeup products that can be easily and quickly spread on the skin in the form of a deposit that should not be thick, but should instead blend as much as possible with the support and they also look for anti-aging products.

[003] Consumers, therefore, are increasingly looking for cosmetic products that combine basic makeup properties and skin care properties, in particular to combat the effects of aging.

[004] These products usually contain active ingredients recognized for their anti-aging activity and colored particles such as pigments or nacres that allow the signs of aging to be hidden.

[005] Among anti-aging active ingredients, it is possible to mention alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid and citric acid, beta-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid and also derivatives of jasmonic acid in particular described in patent application n ^and EP 1 333 021.

[006] These derivatives of jasmonic acid have the advantage if they are well tolerated and do not cause skin discomfort such as tingling, tightness or redness.

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2/44 [007] However, the addition of these compounds in cosmetic formulations, in particular in the form of emulsions, can significantly alter their stability and cause a change in phase.

[008] To overcome this disadvantage, it is possible to increase, in the case of water-in-oil (W / O) emulsions, the dispersed aqueous phase content, which allows a stability to be improved by increasing the viscosity. However, if the water content is too high, the cosmetic application properties of the composition are altered.

[009] There is therefore a need to provide compositions in the form of a W / O emulsion that are stable and have good properties for cosmetic application.

Brief Description of the Invention [010] The present invention is intended to provide water-in-oil emulsions intended for use in makeup and / or skin care compositions.

[011] The present invention is intended to provide makeup and / or skin care compositions in the form of water-in-oil emulsions that are stable over time.

[012] The present invention is intended to provide makeup and / or skin care compositions that have a good compromise between cosmetic and stability properties.

[013] The present invention relates to a composition that includes a physiologically acceptable medium that contains:

- at least one coloring agent; and

- at least one compound derived from jasmonic acid with the following formula (I):

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on what:

Ri represents a COOR3 radical, where R3 designates a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups;

R2 represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, and linear with 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or branched or cyclic with 3 to 18 carbon atoms; as well as their optical isomers and corresponding salts;

wherein said composition is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion which includes an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, wherein said aqueous phase represents 40% to 55%, in particular 42% to 52% and, preferably 44% to 50%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

[014] The compositions according to the invention are cosmetic compositions intended for skin care and / or makeup.

Detailed Description of the Invention [015] The emulsions obtained have good stability over time, a pleasant appearance and, during application, comfortable feeling properties.

[016] The term stable emulsion refers to an emulsion that, after 7 days of storage at room temperature (20 to 22 ° C), does not show any macroscopic change in color, odor or viscosity.

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Jasmonic Acid Derivatives [017] The compositions of the invention include at least one jasmonic acid derivative of formula (I) as defined above.

[018] The compositions of the invention can include mixtures of compounds of formula (I).

[019] According to the present invention, the Cx-Cy alkyl radicals represent saturated hydrocarbon radicals, in a straight or branched chain, which includes x to y carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 12 or 1 to 4 carbon atoms (they can normally be represented by the formula CnH2n + i, where n represents the amount of carbon atoms). It is possible to mention in particular, when they are linear, radicals methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, octyl, nonyl and decyl. In particular, it is possible to mention when they are branched or substituted by one or more alkyl, isopropyl, tert-butyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 2-methyl butyl, 2-methyl pentyl, 1-methylpentyl and 3-methylheptyl radicals.

[020] According to one embodiment, in formula (I), R3 is chosen from the group consisting of H, methyl, ethyl, optionally substituted by a hydroxyl and propyl group, optionally substituted by one or two hydroxyl groups.

[021] When R3 represents an alkyl group, it can be replaced by one or more hydroxyl groups, said hydroxyl groups being capable of being attached at the terminal position of the alkyl radical and / or in the lateral position. For example, R3 can be a -CH2-CH (OH) -CH3 group, a -CH2-CH2-CH2OH group or a -CH2-CH (OH) -CH2OH group.

[022] According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention include a compound of formula (I), wherein R1 is chosen from the group consisting of: -COOH, -COOCH3, -COO-CH2-CH3, -COO- CH2CH (OH) -CH ₂ OH, -COOCH2-CH2-CH2OH and -COOCH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₃ .

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[023] According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention can include a compound of the formula (I), wherein R2 is a hydrocarbon radical, linear, saturated or unsaturated, which has 2 to 7 carbon atoms.

[024] In formula (I), R2 may represent an alkyl radical, linear or branched, which includes 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or preferably 2 to 7 carbon atoms.

[025] According to one embodiment, in formula (I), R2 is chosen from the group consisting of pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl and heptyl radicals.

[026] According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention include a compound of formula (I), wherein R1 is -COOH.

[027] A particular compound derived from jasmonic acid used in the compositions of the invention responds to the following formula (II):

wherein R2 represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, which includes 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or preferably 2 to 7 carbon atoms.

[028] According to one embodiment, in formula (II), R2 is chosen from the group consisting of pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl and heptyl radicals.

[029] According to a particular embodiment, the compositions of the invention include a compound of formula (I) chosen from 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acetic acid or 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acetic acid sodium .

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6/44 [030] The compounds of formula (I) can comprise one or more asymmetric carbon atoms. Therefore, they can be in the form of enantiomers or diasteroisomers. Such enantiomers or diastereomers as well as mixtures thereof, which include racemic mixtures, are part of the invention.

[031] The compounds of formula (I) can be in the basic state or in the form of acid addition salts. Such addition salts are part of the invention.

[032] The salts of the compounds capable of being used according to the invention are in particular chosen from the alkali metal salts, such as sodium or potassium; alkaline earth metal salts, such as calcium, magnesium or strontium, metal salts such as zinc, aluminum, manganese and copper; the ammonium salts of the formula NH4 ⁺ ; quaternary ammonium salts; organic amine salts, such as, for example, methylamine, dimethylamine, trimethylamine, triethylamine, ethylamine, 2-hydroxyethylamine, bis- (2hydroxyethyl) amine and tri- (2-hydroxyethyl) amine salts; or salts of lysine and arginine. Preferably, salts chosen from sodium, potassium, magnesium, strontium, copper, manganese and zinc are used. Most preferably, a sodium salt is used.

[033] According to a particular embodiment, in the compositions of the invention, the compound of formula (I) is brought into the aqueous phase and in a content in the range of 0.001% to 10%, in particular from 0.1% to 8% and preferably 0.5% to 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition.

Coloring Agent [034] The coloring agent present in the compositions of the invention is chosen, for example, from the group consisting of pigments, dyes and interference particles.

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7/44 [035] According to one embodiment, the coloring agent is chosen from among the pigments.

[036] Such cosmetic composition according to the invention can advantageously incorporate at least one dye chosen from organic or inorganic coloring materials, in particular pigment or nacre type conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, fat-soluble or water-soluble dyes , materials with a specific optical effect and mixtures thereof.

[037] The term pigment refers to colored or white inorganic or organic particles, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or render the resulting film opaque.

[038] The pigments can be present in an amount of 0.1% to 40% by weight, in particular 1% to 30% by weight, and in particular 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition .

[039] As inorganic pigments that can be used in the invention, it is possible to mention titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, prussian blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate . Preferably, the composition of the invention includes at least titanium oxides and iron oxides.

[040] They can also be a pigment that has a structure that can be, for example, of the type sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica. Such a pigment is sold, for example, under the reference name COVERLEAF NS or JS by the company CHEMICALS AND CATALYSTS and a contrast ratio of around 30.

[041] The coloring material can comprise a pigment that has a structure that can be, for example, of the silica microsphere type containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment that has this structure is the same sold by MIYOSHI under the reference name

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PC BALL PC-LL-100 P, this pigment being comprised of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

[042] The term nacre refers to colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain mollusks in their shell or produced synthetically, and which have an optical interference color effect.

[043] Nacres can be present in an amount of 0.1% to 30% by weight, in particular, from 0.5% to 20% by weight and, in particular, from 1% to 15% by weight the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

[044] Nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. There can also be mica particles with a surface on which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic coloring materials are superimposed.

[045] It is also possible to mention, as examples of nacre, natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

[046] Among the nacres available on the market, it is possible to mention nacres from TIMICA, FLAMENCO and DUOCHROME (mica base) sold by ENGALHARD, TIMIRON nacars sold by MERCK company, PRESTIGE mica nacars sold by ECKART company and SUNCHINE mica-based synthetic nacres sold by SUN CHEMICAL.

[047] Nacres can more specifically have a color or reflection of copper, brown, orange, bronze, red, pink and / or yellow.

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9/44 [048] As examples of nacres capable of being implanted in the context of the present invention, it is possible to mention colored nacres, in particular, sold by the company ENGELHARD, under the name Ouro Brilhante 212G (Timica), Ouro 222C (Cloisonne), Radiant Gold (Timica), 4504 Gold (Cromalite) and 233X Monarch Gold (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Pure Bronze (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacars sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmic) and by the company Merck under the names Orange Passion (Colorona) and Orange Frosted (17449) (Microna); the brown nacre sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Cobre Nu-Antique 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Cromalite); the copper-dyed nacars sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Cobre 340A (Timica); the red-tinted nacres sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Terra de Siena Pura (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored nacars sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Cromalite); the gold-tinged red nacre sold in private by the Engelhard company under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); the pink nacres sold privately by the company Engelhard under the name Tan Opale G005 (Gemtone); the gold-dyed black nacars sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Nu-Antique Bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Azul Fosco (17433) (Microna), the white dyed nacres of silver sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Prata Xirona, and the orange-pink green-golden nacars sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Indian Summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.

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10/44 [049] The cosmetic composition according to the invention can also include water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes. Fat soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and Quinoline Yellow. Water-soluble tinctures are, for example, beet juice and caramel.

[050] The dyes may be present in an amount of 0.001% to 5% by weight, in particular 0.01% to 3% by weight, and in particular 0.025% to 1% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition cosmetic.

[051] The cosmetic composition, according to the invention, can also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect.

[052] This effect is different from a simple conventional dye effect, that is, unified and stabilized as produced by conventional coloring materials such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. In the sense of the invention, stabilized means a lack of an effect of color variability with the angle of view or in response to a change in temperature.

[053] For example, this material can be chosen from particles with a metallic luster, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffraction pigments, thermochromic agents, optical bleaching agents, as well as fibers, in particular, interference fibers. Obviously, these different materials can be combined in order to provide a simultaneous appearance of two effects, or a new effect according to the invention.

[054] Particles with a metallic luster capable of being used in the invention are in particular chosen from:

- particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative,

- particles comprising an organic substrate or

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11/44 inorganic, made of a single material or of multiple materials, coated at least partially by at least one layer with a metallic luster, which includes at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and

- mixtures of said particles.

[055] Among the metals capable of being present in said particles, it is possible to mention, for example, Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W , Zn, Ge, Te, Se and mixtures or alloys thereof. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (for example, bronzes and brass) are preferred metals.

[056] The term metal derivatives refers to compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfites.

[057] As an illustration of these particles, it is possible to mention aluminum particles, such as those sold under the names STARBRITE 1200 EAC® by the company SIBERLINE and METALURE® by the company ECKART.

[058] It is also possible to quote copper metal powders or alloy mixtures, such as the same reference 2844 sold by the company RADIUM BRONZE, metal pigments, for example, aluminum or bronze, such as those sold under the name ROTOSAFE 700 from ECKART, silica-coated aluminum particles sold under the name VISIONAIRE BRIGHT SILVER from ECKART and metal alloy particles, such as silica-coated bronze powders (zinc and copper alloy) sold under the name VISIONAIRE BRIGHT NATURAL GOLD from ECKART.

[059] There may also be particles that comprise a glass substrate such as those sold by the company NIPPON SHEET GLASS under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE.

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12/44 [060] The goniochromatic coloring agent can be chosen, for example, from the multilayer interference structures and liquid crystal coloring agents.

[061] Examples of symmetrical multilayer interference structures that can be used in compositions produced according to the invention are, for example, the following structures: AI / SiO2 / AI / SiO2 / AI, pigments that have this structure and sold by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS; Cr / MgF2 / AI / MgF2 / Cr, pigments that have this structure and sold under the name CHROMAFLAIR by the company FLEX; MOS2 / SiO2 / AI / SiO2 / MOS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / AI / SiO2 / Fe2O3, and Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3, pigments that have these structures and sold under the name SICOPEARL by the company BASF; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / AI2O3 / TiO2; SnO / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / SnO; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3j SnO / mica / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / mica / SnO, pigments that have these structures and sold under the name XIRONA by the company Merck (Darmstadt). For example, these pigments can be pigments with a silica / titanium oxide / tin oxide structure sold under the name XIRONA MAGIC by the company Merck, pigments with a silica / brown iron oxide structure sold under the name XIRONA INDIAN SUMMER by Merck company and pigments with a silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide structure sold under the name XIRONA CARRIBEAN BLUE by the company Merck. It is also possible to mention the INFINITE COLORS pigments from SHISEIDO. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the Fe2O3 / SiO2 / AI / SiO2 / Fe2O3 structure, the color changes from golden-green to gray-red for S1O2 layers from 320 to 350 nm; from red to gold for S1O2 380 layers at 400nm; violet to green for 410 to 420 nm S1O2 layers; from copper to red for S1O2 layers from 430 to 440 nm.

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13/44 [062] It is possible to mention, as an example of pigments with a multilayer polymer structure, those sold by the company 3M under the name COLOR GLITTER.

[063] As goniochromatic liquid crystal particles, it is possible to use, for example, the same ones sold by the company CHENIX, as well as the same ones under the name HELICONE® HC by the company WACKER.

[064] These goniochromatic coloring agents can be present in the composition in a content in the range of 0.01% to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 20% by weight in relation to the total weight of said composition.

Physiologically Acceptable Medium [065] In addition to the compounds mentioned above, a composition according to the invention includes a physiologically acceptable medium.

[066] The term physiologically acceptable medium refers to a particularly suitable medium for applying a composition of the invention to the skin or lips.

[067] The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the type of support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as the way in which the composition is to be packaged.

[068] The compositions of the invention are in the form of a W / O emulsion containing a dispersed aqueous phase and a continuous oil phase.

Aqueous Phase [069] The composition according to the invention comprises an amount of aqueous phase ranging from 40% to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[070] When the aqueous phase content is less than 40%, the emulsion is no longer stable, and when the aqueous phase content is greater than 55%, the application properties are degraded.

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14/44 [071] The aqueous phase includes water and any other water-soluble compound that may be present, such as, in particular, water-soluble additives and solvents.

[072] As water-soluble solvents, it is possible to mention, in particular, alcohols comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol.

[073] As polyols, it is possible to mention, for example, glycerol, butylene glycol and polyethylene glycols.

[074] The aqueous phase can also contain other additives such as water-soluble active ingredients, preservatives, salts, gelling agents, fillers, water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers, water-soluble dyes, and so on.

Fat Phase [075] A cosmetic composition according to the present invention can include at least one solid and / or liquid fat phase.

[076] In particular, a composition of the invention can include at least one liquid fatty phase, in particular at least one oil as mentioned below.

[077] The term oil refers to any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20 to 25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure. These oils can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

[078] According to one embodiment, the fatty phase of the compositions of the invention includes at least one volatile oil and / or at least one non-volatile oil.

Volatile Oils [079] According to one embodiment, the fatty phase of the compositions of the invention includes at least one volatile oil. The fatty phase

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15/44 of the compositions of the invention may include a mixture of multiple volatile oils.

[080] The term volatile oil refers to any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or lips, in less than an hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg / cm ² / min, inclusive.

[081] In order to measure this evaporation rate, 15 g of oil or a mixture of oils to be tested are introduced into a crystallizer, 7 cm in diameter, placed on a scale located in a large 0.3 m ³ chamber. temperature controlled at a temperature of 25 ° C, and humidity controlled with a relative humidity of 50%. The liquid is left to evaporate freely, without stirring, providing ventilation with a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, which rotates at 2,700 rpm) positioned vertically on the crystallizer containing the solvent, with the blades directed in the direction crystallizer and at a distance of 20 cm from the base of the crystallizer. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals. Evaporation rates are expressed in mg of evaporated oil per unit surface area (cm ² ) and per unit time (minute).

[082] Volatile oils can be hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based or fluorine-based.

[083] According to the invention, the term silicone oil refers to an oil that includes at least one silica atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

[084] The term fluorine oil refers to an oil that includes at least one fluorine atom.

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16/44 [085] The term hydrocarbon oil refers to an oil that primarily contains hydrogen and carbon atoms.

[086] Oils can optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl radicals or acids.

[087] Volatile oils can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils that have 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched CeCi6 alkanes (also called isoparaffins or isoalkanes), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4, 4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and, for example, oils sold under the trade names ISOPARS®or PERMETILS®.

[088] It is also possible to cite, as a volatile hydrocarbon oil, linear C9-C17 alkanes, such as dodecane (C12) and tetradecane (C14), sold respectively under the names PARAFOL® 12-97 and PARAFOL® 14-97 ( Sasol), and, as alkanes obtained according to the method described in international patent application no ^and WO 2007/068371 A1, such as the mixture of undecane (C11) and tridecane (C13) sold under the name CETIOL® UT (Cognis ).

[089] Among the volatile hydrocarbon oils, isododecane and the mixture undecane (C11) and tridecane (C13) are preferred.

[090] It is also possible to use, as volatile oils, volatile silicones, such as, for example, linear or cyclic volatile silicones, in particular those that have a viscosity below or equal to 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 χ 10 ' ⁶ m ² / s), and which has, in particular, from 2 to 10 silica atoms, and in particular from 2 to 7 silica atoms, where these silicones optionally comprise alkyl or alkoxy groups which have from 1 to 10 atoms of carbon. It is possible to mention, as a volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, in particular, dimethicones with a viscosity of 5 and 6 cSt,

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17/44 octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane and pentamethylmethyl methacryloxane, dyethylmethyloxane, dyethylmethylamine, dyethylmethylamine, dyethylmethylamine, dyethylmethylamine and dyethylmethylamine.

[091] More specifically, as a volatile silicone oil, it is possible to quote linear or cyclic silicone oils that have 2 to 7 silica atoms, where these silicones optionally comprise alkyl or alkoxy groups that have 1 to 10 atoms of carbon.

[092] As preferred examples, it is possible to mention decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethyl pentasiloxane.

[093] Among volatile silicone oils, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane is preferred.

[094] It is possible to mention, as a volatile fluorine oil, for example, nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane and mixtures thereof.

Non-Volatile Oils [095] According to one embodiment, the fatty phase of the compositions of the invention includes at least one non-volatile oil. The fatty phase of the compositions of the invention may include a mixture of a plurality of non-volatile oils.

[096] The term non-volatile oil is intended to mean an oil that remains on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly below 0.01 mg / cm ² / min.

[097] Non-volatile oils can, in particular, be chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon, fluorine and / or silicone oils.

[098] It is possible to quote, as a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil:

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- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene,

- hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as phytosteryl esters, for example phyto-stearyl oleate, phyto-stearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl / phyto-stearyl glutamate (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203), triglycerides made up of particular fatty acid esters wherein the fatty acids can have chain lengths in the range of C4 to C36, and in particular from Cie to C36, with the possibility that these oils are linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated; these oils can in particular be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, pumpkin oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, moluccan nut oil, passion fruit flower oil, shea butter, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach seed oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, oil marigold, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, wheat germ oil , jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil (limnanthes alba), St. John's wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, almond oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grape seed oil, pistachio oil, pumpkin oil, girl pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, rosehip oil, sesame oil, soy oil, oil sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, for example, those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or the same sold under the names MIGLYOL 810®, 812® and 818 ® by DYNAMIT NOBEL,

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- linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane;

- synthetic ethers that have 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

- synthetic esters, for example oils of the formula R1COOR2, where R1 represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon base chain, in particular a branched chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms as long as R1 and R2 are greater than or equal to 10. Esters can in particular be selected from fatty acid and alcohol esters, for example: keto stearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol esters, such as such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, for example, isostearyl lactate, diisopropylate, hydroxystearate, isopropylate and hydroxystearate especially isostearyl heptanoate, alcohol or polyalcohol octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates, eg powder dioctanoate ropylene glycol, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-diheptanoate and palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, polyethylene glycol 2-diethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C12-C15 alkyl benzoates, laur neopentanoic acid esters, for example, isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate or octyldodecyl neopentanoate, for example, isononanoic acid esters, isononyl isonate and isononate isotropic isostearyl and diisoestearyl malate;

- polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, for example,

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20/44 dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisoestearate,

- esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7®, sold by NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL and described in patent application n ^Q US 2004-175338,

- copolymers of a diol dimer and a diacid dimer and esters thereof, such as copolymers of diol dimers / dilinoleyl dimers and esters thereof, for example, Plandool-G,

- copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA, or the dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer,

- Fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with an unsaturated and / or branched carbon chain that has 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for example, 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2-undecylpentadecanol,

- major fatty acids, C12-C22, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, and

- dialkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as the tipprilyl carbonate sold under the name CETIOL CC®, by COGNIS,

- higher molar mass oils which in particular have a molar mass in the range of approximately 400 to approximately 10,000 g / mol, in particular approximately 650 to approximately 10,000 g / mol, in particular approximately 750 to approximately 7,500 g / mol, and more particularly in the range of approximately 1,000 to approximately 5,000 g / mol. Since oils of greater molar mass can be used in the invention, a particular mention can be made of the oils selected from:

- lipophilic polymers,

- esters of linear fatty acid which has a total amount of

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21/44 carbon in the range of 35 to 70,

- hydroxylated esters,

- aromatic esters,

- esters of fatty acids or branched fatty alcohols C24-C28,

- silicone oils,

- vegetable oils,

- and mixtures thereof;

- fluorine oils, optionally partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers or fluorinated silicones, as described in relative document n ^Q EP-A-847 752;

- silicone oils, such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) that are non-volatile, linear or cyclic; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups that are pendent or at the end of the silicone chain, said groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxy-diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl) trimethylsiloxysilicates, and

- mixtures thereof.

[099] Among linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, paraffin oils or petroleum jelly are preferably used.

[0100] Among the hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, it is possible to mention, preferably, vegetable oils, such as sweet almond oil, jojoba oil or macadamia seed oil.

[0101] Among synthetic oils such as synthetic esters, isodecyl neopentanoate or isononyl isononanoate is used in

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22/44 particular, and among synthetic ethers, tippryl ether is preferably used.

[0102] Among non-volatile silicone oils, polydimethylsiloxanes, phenyltrimethicone or alkyldimethicone such as cetyl dimethicone, are preferably used.

[0103] According to one embodiment, the fatty phase of the compositions of the invention represents a percentage in the range of 15% to 70% and, preferably, in the range of 20% to 50% in relation to the total weight of the composition.

Thickeners [0104] Depending on the fluidity of the composition that is desired to be obtained, one or more thickeners or gelling agents can be incorporated into a composition of the invention.

[0105] A thickener or gelling agent suitable for the invention may be hydrophilic, that is, soluble in water or dispersible in water.

[0106] As hydrophilic gelling agents, a mention may in particular be made of water-soluble or water-dispersible thickening polymers. Said polymers can in particular be selected from: modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as products sold under the name Carbopol (name CTFA: carbomer) by the company Goodrich; polyacrylates and polymethacrylates, such as products sold under the names Lubrajel and Norgel by the company GUARDIAN or under the name Hispagel by the company HISPANO CHIMICA; polyacrylamides; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamide-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, which are optionally cross-linked and / or neutralized, such as 2-acrylamide-2-methylpropanesulfonic polyacid, sold by the company CLARIANT under the name Hostacerin AMPS (name CTFA: polyacryldimethylamine); acrylamide / AMPS copolymers

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23/44 crosslinked anions, in the form of a W / O emulsion, such as those sold under the name SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / lauryl ether-7) and under the name SIMULGEL 600 (name CTFA : acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / lsohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by SEPPIC; polysaccharide biopolymers, such as xanthan gum, guar gum, locust bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, chitin derivatives and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, gelans, alginates or celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose and hydroxymethylcellulose; and mixtures thereof.

[0107] A thickener or gelling agent suitable for the invention can be lipophilic and can be inorganic or organic.

[0108] As a lipophilic thickener, a mention, for example, may be made of modified clays, such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone gel VS38 from RHEOX), modified hectorites such as hectorite modified with a Cio a fatty acid chloride C22, for example, hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride, for example, the product sold under the name Bentone 38V® by the company ELEMENTIS or the same sold under the name Bentone 38 CE by the company RHEOX or the same sold under the name Bentone Gel V5 5V by the company ELEMENTIS.

[0109] Polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or totally cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes with a three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6®, KSG16® and KSG18® by the company SHIN-ETSU, Trefil E- 505C® and Trefil E-506C® by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SRCYC®, SR DMF10®, SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC gel®, SR DMF 10 gel® and SR DC 556 gel® by GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF 1204 ® and JK 113® by

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24/44 GENERAL ELECTRIC company; ethyl cellulose, such as the product sold under the name Ethocel® by the company DOW CHEMICAL; polycondensates of the polyamide type resulting from a condensation between a dicarboxylic acid containing at least 32 carbon atoms and an alkylene diamine, and in particular an ethylene diamine, wherein the polymer comprises at least one esterified or amidified terminal carboxylic acid group with at least one mono-alcohol or a monoamine containing 12 to 30 carbon atoms, and linear and saturated, and in particular ethylenediamine / stearyl dilinoleate copolymers such as the product sold under the name Uniclear 100 VG® by the company ARIZONA CHEMICAL; galactomannans containing from one to six and, in particular, from two to four, hydroxyl groups per monosaccharide, substituted with a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated with Ci to Ce alkyl chains and, in particular, Ci alkyl chains to C3, and mixtures thereof. Block copolymers of the diblock, triblock or radial type, of the polystyrene / polyisoprene or polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB® by BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) type, such as the same sold under the name Kraton® by the company SHELL CHEMICAL or of the type polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene), mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those sold by the company PENRECO under the name Versagel®, for example, the mixture of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and ethylene / propylene / styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960).

[0110] Among the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in a cosmetic composition of the invention, a mention can also be made of dextrin esters and a fatty acid, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® by the company CHIBA FLOUR, oils

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Hydrogenated vegetables, such as hydrogenated castor oil, fatty alcohols, in particular Ce to C26 fatty acids, and more particularly C12 to C22, for example, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and beyl alcohol.

[0111] According to one embodiment, a composition can comprise thickeners in a content with respect to an active material of 0.01% to 40% by weight, especially 0.1% to 20% by weight, in particular 0 , 3% to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

[0112] According to a preferred embodiment, the composition includes at least one lipophilic thickener, in particular at least one modified hectorite, such as a hectorite modified by a C10 to C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, advantageously in a content in the range from 0.1% to 5% by weight, in particular 0.5% to 2% by weight of active material in relation to the total weight of said composition.

Loads [0113] A composition according to the invention can comprise at least one load, of an organic or inorganic nature, which makes it possible in particular to give it additional properties of matting capacity, coating power and / or improved stability or potency. permanence.

[0114] The loading content can be in the range of 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 1% to 12% by weight in relation to the total weight of said composition.

[0115] The term charge must be understood to mean solid, colorless or white particles of any shape, which are in a form that is insoluble or dispersed in the middle of the composition. Inorganic or organic in nature, they make it possible to give a body or rigidity in the composition, and / or softness and uniformity in the makeup.

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26/44 [0116] The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention can be spherical, globular or lamellar, or in the form of fibers or in any other intermediate form between those defined forms.

[0117] The fillers may or may not be surface-coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance that promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the charge in the composition.

[0118] As examples of inorganic fillers, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass or ceramic microcapsules, composites of silica and titanium dioxide, such as the TSG series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass.

[0119] As examples of organic fillers, a mention may be made of polyamide powder (Nylon® Orgasol de Atochem), polyethylene powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) powder, acrylic acid copolymer powder ( Politrap from Dow Corning), lauroyl lysine, hollow polymer microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile, for example, Expancel (Nobel Industry), hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexylactone copolymer powder (Toshiki Plastic Powder), silicone resin microspheres (Toshiba Tospearl, for example), synthetic or natural micronized waxes, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids that have 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate Polipore® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), organopolysiloxane powders they reticulated tumeric coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in

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27/44 n ^and patent document US 5,538,793, polyurethane powders, in particular powders of crosslinked polyurethane comprising a copolymer, wherein said copolymer comprises trimethylol hexillactona. In particular, it can be a hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexillactone polymer. Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example, under the name PLASTIC POWDER D-400® or PLASTIC POWDER D-800® from TOSHIKI and mixtures thereof.

[0120] According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition includes at least one crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin. The presence of such a charge also allows the composition of the invention to be thickened and / or gelled.

[0121] The crosslinked elastomeric elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder (s) coated with silicone resin may be present in a content in the range of 0.5% to 12% by weight, advantageously from 2% to 10% by weight and preferably from 7% to 9% by weight in relation to the total weight of said composition.

[0122] In particular, mention may be made of elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin, in particular a silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in patent document No US 5 538 ^and 793. Such powders elastomers are sold under the names KSP-100®, KSP-101®, KSP-102®, KSP-103®, KSP-104® and KSP-105® by the company SHIN ETSU; a mention may also be made of a crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin such as hybrid silicone powders functionalized by fluoroalkyl groups, in particular sold under the name KSP-200 by the company SHIN ETSU; or hybrid silicone powders

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28/44 functionalized by phenyl groups, in particular sold under the name KSP300 by the company Shin Etsu.

Emulsifier [0123] The composition of the invention can also include one or more emulsifiers.

[0124] As emulsifiers, it is possible to mention, in particular, emulsifiers of polyoxyalkylene glycol and polyhydroxylated fatty acid.

[0125] Preferably, the polyoxyalkylene glycol and polyhydroxylated fatty acid ester is a fatty acid and a polyethylene glycol ester.

[0126] The fatty acid and polyoxyalkylene glycol ester can be a monoester or a polyester, in particular a diester or a triester.

[0127] Fatty acid can include 12 to 20 carbon atoms and, preferably, 14 to 18 carbon atoms. It can be chosen in particular from oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and mixtures thereof.

[0128] Polyethylene glycol may include 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and more preferably, 20 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide.

[0129] According to one embodiment, an ester is preferably used, a diester, of polyethylene glycol which includes 20 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and polyhydroxylated fatty acid, wherein said polyhydroxylated fatty acid includes 14 to 18 atoms carbon, in particular stearic polyhydroxy acid.

[0130] In particular, the fatty acid and polyoxyalkylene glycol ester are in the form of a sequenced polymer, preferably with an ABA structure, which comprises hydroxylated polyester and polyethylene glycol sequences.

[0131] The fatty acid ester of said polymer has a chain comprising 12 to 20 carbon atoms and, preferably, 14 to 18 carbon atoms.

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[0132] The polyethylene glycol sequences of said emulsifying polymer as defined above preferably comprise 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide, and more preferably, 20 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide.

[0133] A particularly suitable compound to produce the compositions of the invention is polyethylene glycol dipolehydroxystearate with 30 moles of ethylene oxide sold under the trade name CITHROL DPHS-SO (MV) by the company Croda.

[0134] Polyoxyalkylene glycol is generally present in compositions according to the invention in an amount capable of varying in the range of 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and, preferably, 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even more satisfactory 1% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

[0135] According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention may include, in addition to polyoxyalkylene glycol and the polyhydroxylated fatty acid ester emulsifier, an additional (or surfactant) emulsifier, also called a coemulsifier. This coemulsifier does not allow itself, in the absence of a polyoxyalkylene glycol ester and polyhydroxy fatty acid, for the composition of the invention to be stabilized.

[0136] An additional emulsifier can be chosen, for example, from non-ionic emulsifiers derived from polyol-fatty acid, polyolefins with a succinic end, and mixtures thereof.

[0137] As polyolefins with a succinic end, it is possible to mention, in particular, polyisobutylene with an esterified succinic end and salts thereof, in particular salts of diethanolamine, such as products sold under the names Lubrizol 2724, Lubrizol 2722 and Lubrizol 5603 by the company Lubrizol.

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30/44 [0138] Preferably, an additional emulsifier is chosen from the polyol fatty acid esters.

[0139] The term polyol-fatty acid ester according to the invention refers to polyol-fatty acid esters in which the fatty acid includes a C6-C22 alkyl chain and, preferably, C16-C20, and the polyol it is chosen from glycerol, polyglycerol, sorbitan and mixtures thereof. The fatty acid can also be in a polymeric form, as in the case of stearic polyhydroxy acid (12-hydroxy acid stearic polymer).

[0140] According to one particular embodiment, the polyol fatty acid ester is a C16-C20 ester of fatty acid and glycerol and / or sorbitan and mixtures thereof.

[0141] As examples of a C16-C20 straight or branched chain fatty acid, it is possible to mention stearic acid, stearic isoacid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid. As an example of a C16-C20 fatty acid polymer, it is possible to cite 12-polyhydroxy stearic acid.

[0142] Preferably, stearic, isostearic or 12 polyhydroxystearic acid or mixtures thereof will be used.

[0143] The term polyglycerols refers to compounds of the formula:

wherein the degree of condensation n ranges from 1 to 11, preferably from 2 to 6 and even more preferably, from 3 to 6.

[0144] According to one particular embodiment, the polyol fatty acid ester contains from 2 to 10 moles (units) of polyols, preferably 2 to 4 moles of polyols, in particular 2 to 4 units of glycerol or a mixture of polyglycerols (glycerol, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, oligoglycerols).

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31/44 [0145] Even more preferably, the polyol fatty acid ester contains 4 moles (or units) of polyol, in particular 4 moles (or units) of glycerol.

[0146] According to a preferred embodiment, said polyol fatty acid ester is also a fatty acid ester, of dicarboxylic acid having 2 to 16 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 14 carbon atoms, such as acid azelaic, sebacic acid, dodecanodinoic acid and, preferably, sebacic acid (Cio), and polyol.

[0147] As examples of the fatty acid ester of polyols that can be used in the composition of the invention, it is possible to mention esters of isostearic acid and polyols and mixtures thereof, in particular esters of isostearic acid and glycerol and / or sorbitan, such as, for example, polyglycerol isostearate (4 moles) (INCI name: Polyglyceril-4 isostearate) supplied under the name Isolan GI34® by the company Goldschmidt, polyglycerol diiso stearate (3 moles) supplied under the name Lameform TGI® by the company Cognis; polyglycerol distearate (2 moles) supplied under the name Emalex PGSA® by the company Nihon emulsion; polyglycerol mono-stearate (10 moles) supplied under the name Nikkol Decaglyn 1-IS by the company Nihon Surfactant (INCI name: Polyglyceril-10 isostearate); polyhydroxystearate diisolate polyglyceryl-4 sebacate supplied under the name ISOLAN GPS by Goldschmidt; the mixture of sorbitan isostearate and glycerol isostearate, such as the product supplied under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, the mixture of sorbitan isostearate and polyglycerol isostearate (3 moles) supplied under the name Arlacel 1690 by the company Uniquema, a mixture of sorbitan isostearate and polyglycerol isostearate (3 moles) supplied under the name Arlacel 1690® by the company Uniquema and mixtures thereof.

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32/44 [0148] It is also possible to mention silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of dimethicone copolyol and cyclomethicone, supplied under the name DC 5225 C by the company Dow Corning, Laurylmethylone copolyol supplied under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning and Cetyl dimethicone copolyol supplied under the name Abil EM 90® by the company Goldschmidt.

[0149] Preferably, the additional emulsifier is chosen from fatty acid esters, preferably C16 to C20, in particular stearic acid or isostearic acid, and polyol, chosen from glycerol and / or sorbitan.

[0150] The additional emulsifier can be present in a content (dry matter) in the range of 0.05% to 5% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition and, preferably, from 0.1 to 1% by weight in the total weight of the composition.

[0151] According to another embodiment, a composition according to the invention includes less than 2%, preferably less than 1% and even more preferably, less than 0.5% additional emulsifier, and in particular , it can be free of additional emulsifier.

[0152] The composition of the invention can also include at least one silicone emulsifier.

[0153] The compositions according to the invention include a silicone emulsifier (or surfactant) chosen from oxyethylene and oxypropylene polydimethylsiloxanes also called dimethicone copolyols, oxyethylene and oxypropylene alkylpolymethylsiloxanes (also called dimethicone alkyl polyols) of which the chain of alkyl includes less than 12 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.

[0154] Preferably, the silicone surfactant comprises polyoxyethylene and polyoxypropylene chains grafted onto the main chain (polyoxyethylene and polyoxypropylene side or pendant chains).

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33/44 [0155] The (alkyl) polydimethylsiloxanes used in the emulsion according to the invention advantageously have polyoxyethylene and polyoxypropylene side chains with the following formula:

- (CxH2x) - (OC2H ₄ ) a- (OC3H ₆ ) b-ORl0 where

- R10 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical, linear or branched, which has 1 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably a hydrogen atom,

- ranges from 1 to 100, preferably from 2 to 50 and more preferably from 10 to 30,

- b ranges from 1 to 100, preferably from 2 to 50, and most preferably from 10 to 30,

- x ranges from 1 to 5.

[0156] The numerical average molecular weight of the silicone emulsifier is generally greater than or equal to 15,000, preferably greater than or equal to 30,000 and capable of being in the range of 40,000 to 100,000, in particular 50,000 to 100,000.

[0157] As an example of a silicone compound that belongs to this family, it is possible to mention oxyethylene and oxypropylene polydimethylsiloxane (OE / OP 18/18) of which the INCI name is PEG / PPG 18/18 dimethicone, supplied in a mixture with a polydimethylsiloxane under the commercial reference X-22-6711D by the company Shin Etsu or under the name ES5226 DM by the company Dow Corning (INCI name: Dimethicone / PEG / PPG18 / 18 Dimethicone).

[0158] The silicone emulsifier is generally present in the compositions according to the invention in a content capable of being in the range of 0.1% to 15% by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition, preferably

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34/44 from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight with respect to the total weight of the composition.

Additives [0159] A cosmetic composition according to the invention can also additionally comprise any additive normally used in the field under consideration, for example, selected from gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, gums, resins, dispersants, semicrystalline polymers, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, fragrances, neutralizing agents, antiseptics, anti-UV protective agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizing agents, emollients or collagen protective agents, and mixtures thereof.

[0160] A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of additives present in the compositions according to the invention by means of routine operations, so that the desired cosmetic properties and stability properties for those compositions are not affected by additions.

UV filters [0161] The composition of the invention can also include at least one UV filter.

[0162] As a non-limiting illustration of UV filters, it is possible to mention the following families: anthranilates, in particular methyl anthranilate; benzophenones, in particular benzophenone-1, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, benzophenone-9, benzophenone-12 and, preferably, benzophenone-2 (oxybenzone), or benzophenone-4 (Uvinul MS40 ® available from BASF); benzylidene-camphor, in particular 3-benzylidene camphor, benzylidene-camphor-sulfonic acid, benzalkonium camphor methosulfate, polyacrylamide-methyl benzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene acid

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35/44 sulfonic dicphorus and, preferably, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor (Eusolex 6300® available from Merck); benzimidazoles, in particular benzimidazylate (Neo Heliopan AP® available from Haarmann and Reimer), phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (Eusolex 232® available from Merck); benzotriazoles, in particular drometrizole trisiloxane, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M® available from Ciba); cinnamates, in particular cinoxate, DEA methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methyl cinnamate, glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, isoamylcinnamate, and preferably etocylene (Uvinul N35® available from BASF), octyl methoxycinate® (Parsol from MCX Hoffmann La Roche), or octocrylene (Uvinul 539® available from BASF); dibenzoylmethanes, in particular butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789®); imidazolines, in particular ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline; PABAs, in particular ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyldimethyl PABA, glyceryl PABA, PABA and PEG-25 PABA, and preferably diethylhexylbutamidotriazone (Uvasorb HEB® available from 3V Sigma), ethylhexyltriazone (from Uvinul T1) PABA (benzocaine); salicylates, in particular dipropylene glycol salicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate, homosalate, or TEA salicylate; triazines, in particular anisotriazine (Tinosorb S® from Ciba); drometrizole trisiloxane, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, and, coated or not, cerium oxide, iron, zirconium or zinc.

[0163] Preferably, cinnamates, salicylates and mixtures thereof, or titanium dioxide are preferably used. According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention includes a UV filter chosen from among cinnamates.

[0164] According to a particular embodiment, octylmethoxycinnamate, also called ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate is used preferentially.

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36/44 [0165] The number of filters is dependent on the desired end use. It can vary, for example, from 1 to 20% by weight and more preferably from 2 to 10% by weight in relation to the total weight of the composition.

[0166] In particular, a cosmetic composition of the invention can be in the form of a fluid or liquid foundation, a hot-drained foundation product, a body make-up product, a concealer, an eye shadow, or a foundation. make up.

[0167] A skin care composition according to the invention can be, in particular, a sunscreen composition, a skin care cream, a serum or a deodorant.

[0168] Preferably, the composition of the invention is in the form of a base.

[0169] The composition according to the invention can be applied by any means that allows uniform distribution, in particular with the use of a finger, or a cotton ball, a rod, a brush, gauze, a spatula or a tampon , or by spraying, and can be removed by rinsing with water or using a mild detergent.

[0170] The composition of the invention can be implanted in order to improve the general condition of the epidermis, in particular the skin, and in particular to maintain or restore its physiological functions and / or its aesthetic appearance.

[0171] Thus, the composition of the invention can be advantageously implanted in order to combat aging of the epidermis, to maintain and / or stimulate hydration and / or combat the drying of the skin, to improve skin tone, maintain or restore flexibility and the elasticity of the skin, improve the mineralization of the epidermis, enhance the vitality of the epidermis, facilitate intercellular exchanges, and combat the appearance of cracking and fracture in the skin.

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37/44 [0172] A composition according to the invention can be intended for cosmetic and / or dermatological application.

[0173] The invention also relates to the cosmetic use, in particular non-therapeutic, in a cosmetic composition for skin care and / or makeup, of at least one coloring agent and at least one compound derived from jasmonic acid of formula (I) as defined above, said composition being in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion that includes an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, [0174] wherein said aqueous phase represents 40% to 55% by weight with respect to to the total weight of said composition, [0175] in order to prevent skin aging.

[0176] The invention also relates to the cosmetic use, in particular non-therapeutic, of at least one coloring agent and at least one compound derived from jasmonic acid of formula (I) as defined above in a composition, the said composition being in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion that includes an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, [0177] wherein said aqueous phase represents 40% to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, [ 0178] in order to prevent skin aging.

[0179] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method that includes applying a composition to the skin as defined above.

[0180] The invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method of makeup and / or skin care that includes a step of applying at least one layer of a composition as defined above on the skin.

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38/44 [0181] The invention also relates to a skin makeup method in which a makeup is applied as defined above.

Examples

Definition of stability [0182] According to the invention, the term stable emulsion refers to an emulsion which, after 7 days of storage at room temperature (20 to 22 ° C), does not show any macroscopic change.

[0183] Stability is carried out on 300 g of the product, packaged in a 660 ml jar that is hermetically sealed by an aluminum lid.

A - Influence of the aqueous phase content on stability [0184] The examples of fluid bases 1 to 7 make it possible to show that, when the aqueous phase content is less than 40%, the stability of the base is inadequate.

EXAMPLES 1 to 7 % in pasta TO 1 Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone supplied under reference APRIL IN 90 by the company Goldschmidt 3.00 Polyglycerol isostearate 4 supplied under reference ISOLAN Gl 34 by Goldschmidt 1.00 Dimethicone + PEG / PPG / -18 / 18 dimethicone supplied under reference X-22-6711D by Shin Etsu 1.07 Ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate 7.50 Phenyltrimethicone supplied under reference DC 556 by Dow Corning Q 2cSt dimethicone R

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EXAMPLES 1 to 7 % in pasta Cyclohexasiloxane s A2 Bismuth oxychloride 2.00 A3 2cSt dimethicone 6.00 Microspheres (methyl chloride copolymer vinylidene / acrylonitrile / methacrylate) expanded by isobutane supplied under the reference Expancel 551 DE 40 D42 by Akzo Nobel 0.20 A4 Synthetic mica (fluorflogopite) 1.44 A5 Cyclohexasiloxane 6.00 Yellow iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 2.03 Red iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 0.58 Black iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 0.17 Titanium dioxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 10.22 B Deionized water T Butylene glycol u 1,3-Propanediol V Phenoxyethanol w Magnesium sulfate X Sorbitol Y A sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane 6.20

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EXAMPLES 1 to 7 % in pasta acetic acid in a water / dipropylene glycol mixture (32/48/20) ç Ethanol Z D perfume 0.05 TOTAL 100%

Procedure [0185] The constituents of phase A1 are weighed in the main beaker, then homogenized using a Moritz mixer at a speed of 1,200 to 1,400 rpm at room temperature.

[0186] Phase A2 followed by phase A3 are then added, which were previously prepared by kneading by hand, and finally phase A4 is added, while stirring for 15 minutes until homogenization.

[0187] Phase A5 is prepared separately by grinding the mixture of pigments and cyclohexasiloxane in a three-roller grinder three times.

[0188] Phase A5 is added to the main beaker while progressively increasing the stirring speed of the Moritz mixer to 1,400 at 1,500 rpm, then stirring is continued for 20 minutes.

[0189] Phase B constituents were weighed separately, with the exception of the derivative of jasmonic acid and phenoxyethanol. It is homogenized with the use of a magnetic mixer at a temperature of about 30 to 35 ° C, so the derivative of jasmonic acid and phenoxyethanol are incorporated.

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41/44 [0190] Then, the emulsification is produced by pouring phase B into the main beaker and progressively increasing the stirring speed to 4,000 rpm, and then maintaining it at the same speed for 10 minutes.

[0191] The stirring speed is then slightly reduced and ethanol and perfume are added. The mixture is stirred again for two minutes and the product is packaged in a glass jar.

Stability results

Ex. 1 (Invention) Ex. 2 (Invention) Ex. 3 (Invention) Ex. 4 (Comparative) Ex. 5 (Comparative) Ex. 6 (Comparative) Ex. 7 (Comparative) Q 8.00 8.92 10.01 10.74 11.47 12.56 14.09 R 2.00 2.92 4.01 4.74 5.47 6.56 8.09 s 0 0.69 1.52 2.06 2.61 3.42 4.57 Τ 25.64 24.11 22.30 21.10 19.89 18.08 15.56 u 5.00 4.70 4.35 4.11 3.88 3.53 3.03 V 5.00 4.70 4.35 4.11 3.88 3.53 3.03 w 0.70 0.67 0.61 0.58 0.54 0.49 0.42 X 0.70 0.66 0.61 0.58 0.54 0.49 0.42 Y 0.50 0.47 0.43 0.41 0.38 0.35 0.30 z 5.00 4.70 4.35 4.11 3.88 3.53 3.03 Total aqueous phase T + U + V + W + X + Y + Z + 4.22% of active ingredient solvents 46.76 44.23 41.22 39.22 37.21 34.22 30.01 Stability and (7 days) Emulsion homogeneous and stable. Homogeneous and stable emulsion. Stable emulsion. Unstable emulsion. Non-homogeneous surface: presence of oily stains. Unstable emulsion. Sedimentation and phase separation. Unstable emulsion. Sedimentation and phase separation. Unstable emulsion. Sedimentation and phase separation.

[0192] These results show that the composition is stable when the percentage of aqueous phase is greater than 40%.

B - Influence of the aqueous phase content on cosmetic properties [0193] The comparison of the fluid base examples 1 and 8 shows that, when the aqueous phase content is greater than 55%, the cosmetic properties of the base are not so good.

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Ex. 1 (Invention) Ex. 8 (Comparative) % in pasta % of mass TO 1 Cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone sold under the reference ABIL EM 90 by Goldschmidt 3.00 3.00 Polyglycerol isostearate 4 sold under the reference ISOLAN Gl 34 by Goldschmidt 1.00 1.00 Dimethicone + PEG / PPG / -18 / 18 dimethicone sold under the reference X-22-6711D by the company Shin Etsu 1.07 1.07 Ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate 7.50 7.50 Phenyltrimethicone sold under the reference DC 556 by Dow Corning 8.00 - 2cSt dimethicone 2.00 - A2 Bismuth oxychloride 2.00 2.00 A3 2cSt dimethicone 6.00 6.00 Microspheres (methyl vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile / methacrylate copolymer) expanded by isobutane sold under the reference Expancel 551 DE 40 D42 by Akzo Nobel 0.20 0.20 A4 Synthetic mica (fluorflogopite) 1.44 1.44 A5 Cyclohexasiloxane 6.00 6.00 Yellow iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 2.03 2.03 Red iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 0.58 0.58 Black iron oxide coated with stearoyl glutamate 0.17 0.17

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Ex. 1 (Invention) Ex. 8 (Comparative) aluminum Titanium dioxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 10.22 10.22 B Deionized water 25.64 28.67 Butylene glycol 5.00 7.06 1.3- Propanediol 5.00 7.06 Phenoxyethanol 0.70 0.99 Magnesium sulfate 0.70 0.99 Sorbitol 0.50 0.71 A sodium salt of 3-hydroxy-2-pentylcyclopentane acetic acid in the water / dipropylene glycol mixture (32/48/20) 6.20 6.20 Ç Ethanol 5.00 7.06 D perfume 0.05 0.05 TOTAL 100% 100% Total aqueous phase 46.76% 56.76%

Example 8 procedure [0194] The A1 phase constituents are weighed in the main beaker, then homogenized with a Moritz mixer at a speed of 1500 rpm at room temperature.

[0195] Phase A2 followed by phase A3 are then added, which were previously prepared by kneading by hand, and finally phase A4 is added, while stirring for 15 minutes until homogenization.

[0196] Phase A5 is prepared separately by triturating the mixture of pigments and cyclohexasiloxane in a three-roller grinder three times.

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44/44 [0197] Phase A5 is added to the main beaker while progressively increasing the stirring speed of the Moritz mixer to 1,600 rpm, then stirring is continued for 20 minutes.

[0198] Phase B constituents were weighed separately, with the exception of the derivative of jasmonic acid and phenoxyethanol. They are homogenized using a magnetic mixer at a temperature of about 30 to 35 ° C, then the derivative of jasmonic acid and phenoxyethanol are incorporated.

[0199] Then, the emulsification is produced by pouring phase B into the main beaker and progressively increasing the stirring speed to 4,000 rpm, and then maintaining it at the same speed for 10 minutes.

[0200] The stirring speed is then slightly reduced and ethanol and perfume are added. The mixture is stirred again for two minutes and the product is packaged in a glass jar.

Sensory evaluation [0201] A panel of 4 women, between the ages of 20 and 50 years old, was asked to apply the two bases, one on each half of their faces.

[0202] This evaluation showed that the basis of example 1 (invention) is easier to apply, smoother and more comfortable. The basis of example 8 (comparative) gives rise to a more dusty makeup result, which has a tendency to increase the visibility of imperfections in elevation (pores, wrinkles). After an application, it leads to a harder and firmer film.

[0203] In the end, women on the panel prefer the basis of example 1 (invention).

Claims (12)

Claims 1. COMPOSITION, characterized by including a physiologically acceptable medium that contains: - at least one coloring agent, wherein said coloring agent is a pigment or dye; and - at least one compound derived from jasmonic acid of formula (I), as follows: on what: Ri represents a COOR3 radical, with R3 designating a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups; R2 represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, and linear with 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or branched or cyclic with 3 to 18 carbon atoms; as well as their optical isomers and corresponding salts; wherein said composition is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion including an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, wherein said aqueous phase represents 40% to 55%, in particular 42% to 52% and preferably from 44% to 50%, by weight in relation to the total weight of said composition, in which the compound of formula (I) is brought into the aqueous phase and in a content in the range of 0.001% to 10%, in particular from 0.1% to 8% and preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight in relation to the total weight of said composition, Petition 870180155180, of 11/26/2018, p. 54/58 2/4 in which the pigments are present in an amount of 0.1% to 40% by weight, in particular 1% to 30% by weight, and in particular 5% to 15% by weight in relation to the total weight of said composition, wherein the dyes are present in an amount of 0.001% to 5% by weight, in particular 0.01% to 3% by weight, and in particular 0.025% to 1% by weight, in relation to the total weight of said composition. 2. COMPOSITION, according to claim 1, characterized in that, in formula (I), Ri is selected from the group consisting of: -COOH, -COOCHa, -COO-CH2-CH3, -COO-CH ₂ - CH (OH) -CH ₂ OH, -COOCH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ OH and -COOCH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₃ . COMPOSITION according to either of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that, in formula (I), R ₂ is a hydrocarbon radical, linear, saturated or unsaturated, having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that, in formula (I), R1 is -COOH. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that, in formula (I), R ₂ is selected from the group consisting of pentyl, pentenyl, hexyl and heptyl radicals. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the compound of formula (I) is 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acetic acid or 3-hydroxy-2-pentyl-cyclopentane acetic acid sodium salt. 7. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the aqueous phase includes water, as the case may be, in a mixture with water-soluble additives and / or solvents. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the aqueous phase includes additives Petition 870180155180, of 11/26/2018, p. 55/58 3/4 selected from the group consisting of water-soluble active ingredients, preservatives, salts, gelling agents, fillers, water-soluble or water-dispersible polymers, and mixtures thereof. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it includes at least one UV filter, wherein said UV filter is preferably selected from cinnamates and is preferably ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it is in the form of a fluid base. 11. NON-THERAPEUTIC COSMETIC USE, of at least one coloring agent selected from a pigment or dye, and at least one compound derived from jasmonic acid with the formula (I) below: on what: Ri represents a COOR3 radical, with R3 designating a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups; R2 represents a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, and linear with 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or branched or cyclic with 3 to 18 carbon atoms; as well as their optical isomers and corresponding salts; in a composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion including an aqueous phase dispersed in a fatty phase, wherein said aqueous phase represents 40% to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, Petition 870180155180, of 11/26/2018, p. 56/58 4/4 in which the compound of the formula (I) is brought into the aqueous phase and in a content in the range of 0.001% to 10%, in particular from 0.1% to 8% and, preferably, from 0.5 % to 5% by weight in relation to the total weight of said composition, wherein the pigments are present in an amount of 0.1% to 40% by weight, in particular 1% to 30% by weight, and in particular 5% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, wherein the dyes are present in an amount of 0.001% to 5% by weight, in particular 0.01% to 3% by weight, and in particular 0.025% to 1% by weight, in relation to the total weight of said composition, characterized to prevent skin aging. 12. NON-THERAPEUTIC SKIN CARE AND / OR MAKE-UP METHOD, characterized in that it includes a step of applying at least one layer of a composition to the skin as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10.