CN103796627A

CN103796627A - Cosmetic compositions in the form of water-in-oil emulsions including a jasmonic acid derivative

Info

Publication number: CN103796627A
Application number: CN201280043183.4A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 帕斯卡·阿诺; 帕斯卡莱·吉格诺恩; 玛蒂尔德·格东
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2011-07-08
Filing date: 2012-07-06
Publication date: 2014-05-14
Anticipated expiration: 2032-07-06
Also published as: BR112014000318B1; RU2014104514A; KR102002099B1; WO2013007647A1; FR2977486A1; BR112014000318A2; RU2587320C2; CN103796627B; KR20140047698A; FR2977486B1

Abstract

This invention relates to a composition including a physiologically acceptable medium containing at least one coloring agent; and at least one jasmonic acid derivative compound, in which said composition is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, and said aqueous phase represents 40% to 55% by weight with respect to the total weight of said composition.

Description

Comprise the cosmetic composition of the water-in-oil emulsion form of jasmonic acid derivative

Technical field

The present invention relates to skin care compositions and/or make-up composition.More specifically, the present invention relates to the cosmetic composition of water-in-oil emulsion form, it comprises jasmonic acid derivative.

Background technology

Beauty and skin care or the cosmetic product that can easily and rapidly on skin, sprawl with deposit form are craved for by consumer, and this deposit should not be thick, but should mix as much as possible with carrier, and anti-aging product is also craved for by consumer.

Therefore, the cosmetics in conjunction with foundation cream cosmetic properties and skin protection performance are more and more craved for by consumer, in particular for the cosmetics of anti-aging effects.

These products comprise conventionally generally acknowledges the active component with activity of fighting against senium and the colored particles that can cover old and feeble sign, such as pigment or Margarita.

In activity of fighting against senium composition, what can mention especially is the 'alpha '-hydroxy acids described in patent application EP 1333021 (for example, lactic acid and citric acid), beta-hydroxy acid (for example, salicylic acid) and jasmonic acid derivative.

The advantage that these jasmonic acid derivatives have is good toleration and does not cause skin uncomfortable (for example, twinge, tighten or rubescent).

But, these compounds are added to especially in the cosmetic formulation with the form of emulsion and can obviously change its stability and cause phase transformation.

In order to overcome this shortcoming, water-in-oil emulsion (W/O) in the situation that, can increase the aqueous phase content of dispersion, this can improve stability by increased viscosity.But, if water content is too high, change the beauty treatment spreading property of compositions.

Therefore, need to provide compositions stable and that there is the W/O emulsion form of good beauty treatment spreading property.

Summary of the invention

The present invention aims to provide the water-in-oil emulsion for using at skin protection and/or make-up composition.

The present invention aims to provide skin protection and/or the make-up composition of water-in-oil emulsion form, and said composition is to become stable along with the time.

The present invention aims to provide skin protection and/or the make-up composition between stability and beauty treatment performance with good compromise.

The present invention relates to a kind of compositions that comprises physiologically acceptable medium, described compositions comprises:

-at least one coloring agent; With

-at least one has the jasmonic derivative compound of following formula (I):

Wherein:

.R ₁represent group COOR ₃, wherein R ₃refer to hydrogen atom or C1-C4 alkyl, described C1-C4 alkyl is replaced by one or more hydroxyls alternatively;

.R ₂represent: saturated or unsaturated, straight chain, there is 1 alkyl to 18 carbon atoms; Or saturated or unsaturated, side chain or loop chain, there are 3 alkyl to 18 carbon atoms; And optical isomer and corresponding salt;

Wherein, described compositions is the form of water-in-oil emulsion, and described water-in-oil emulsion is included in the fat middle water disperseing mutually,

Wherein said water account for by weight described compositions gross weight 40% to 55%, particularly 42% to 52%, preferably 44% to 50%.

Compositions according to the present invention is the cosmetic composition for skin protection and/or cosmetic.

The emulsion obtaining has along with the good stability of time, pleasant outward appearance and during smearing, has the performance of comfort.

Term " stable emulsion " refers to so a kind of emulsion: by emulsion, after the lower storage of room temperature (20 ℃ to 22 ℃) 7 days, this emulsion does not show any macroscopic view and changes in color, abnormal smells from the patient or viscosity.

Jasmonic acid derivative

Compositions of the present invention comprises that at least one is as the jasmonic acid derivative of formula defined above (I).

Compositions of the present invention can comprise the mixture of the compound of formula (I).

According to the present invention, " alkyl " group Cx-Cy represents the saturated hydrocarbyl of straight or branched, and it comprises x to y carbon atom, and preferably (they can use formula C conventionally for 1 to 12 carbon atom or 1 to 4 carbon atom _nh _2n+1represent, wherein n represents the number of carbon atom).In the time that it is straight chain, what especially can mention is methyl, ethyl, propyl group, butyl, amyl group, hexyl, octyl group, nonyl and decyl.When it is side chain or while being replaced by one or more alkyl, what especially can mention is isopropyl, the tert-butyl group, 2-ethylhexyl, 2-methyl butyl, 2-methyl amyl, 1-methyl amyl and 3-methylheptyl.

According to an embodiment, in formula (I), R ₃be selected from H, the methyl, the alternatively ethyl that replaced by hydroxyl and the propyl group being replaced by one or two hydroxyl alternatively that are replaced by hydroxyl alternatively.

Work as R ₃represent that it can be replaced by one or more hydroxyls when alkyl, described one or more hydroxyls can be combined on the terminal position of described alkyl and/or on side group position.For example, R ₃can be-CH ₂-CH(OH)-CH ₃group or-CH ₂-CH ₂-CH ₂oH group or-CH ₂-CH(OH)-CH ₂oH group.

According to an embodiment, compositions of the present invention comprises the compound of formula (I), wherein R ₁be selected from following group :-COOH ,-COOCH ₃,-COO-CH ₂-CH ₃,-COO-CH ₂-CH(OH)-CH ₂oH ,-COOCH ₂-CH ₂-CH ₂oH and-COOCH ₂-CH(OH)-CH ₃.

According to an embodiment, compositions of the present invention can comprise the compound of formula (I), wherein R ₂to there is 2 straight chains to 7 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated alkyl.

In formula (I), R ₂can represent to comprise 1 to 18 carbon atom or preferred alkyl 2 straight chains to 7 carbon atoms or side chain.

According to an embodiment, in formula (I), R ₂be selected from amyl group, pentenyl, hexyl and heptyl.

According to an embodiment, compositions of the present invention comprises the compound of formula (I), wherein R ₁be-COOH.

In compositions of the present invention, concrete jasmonic derivative compound used is corresponding to following formula (II):

Wherein R ₂represent to comprise 1 to 18 carbon atom or preferred 2 alkyl to the straight or branched of 7 carbon atoms.

According to an embodiment, in formula (II), R ₂be selected from amyl group, pentenyl, hexyl and heptyl.

According to a specific embodiment, compositions of the present invention comprises the compound with formula (I) that is selected from 3-hydroxyl-2-amyl group-Pentamethylene. acetic acid or 3-hydroxyl-2-amyl group-Pentamethylene. acetic acid sodium salt.

The compound of formula (I) can comprise one or more asymmetric carbon atoms.Therefore they can be the forms of enantiomer or diastereomer.These enantiomers or diastereomer with and composition thereof (comprising racemic mixture) be a part of the present invention.

The compound of formula (I) can be the form of alkaline state or acid-addition salts.This addition salts is a part of the present invention.

According to the present invention, the salt of operable compound is especially selected from: alkali metal (for example, sodium or potassium) salt; Alkaline-earth metal (for example, calcium, magnesium or strontium) salt; Metal (for example, zinc, aluminum, manganese and copper) salt; Formula NH ₄ ⁺ammonium salt; Quaternary ammonium salt; Organic amine salt, for example, methylamine salt, dimethylamine salt, front three amine salt, triethylamine salt, ethylamine salt, 2 hydroxy ethylamine salt, two-(2-ethoxy) amine salt and three-(2-ethoxy) amine salt; Or lysinate and arginine salt.Preferably, use the salt that is selected from sodium, potassium, magnesium, strontium, copper, manganese and zinc.More preferably, use sodium salt.

According to a specific embodiment, in compositions of the present invention, the compound of formula (I) is incorporated in water, and with respect to the gross weight of described compositions, the content range by weight of described compound is 0.001% to 10%, particularly 0.1% to 8%, preferably 0.5% to 5%.

Coloring agent

For example, the coloring agent existing in compositions of the present invention is selected from pigment, dyestuff and interference granule.

According to an embodiment, coloring agent is selected from pigment.

Advantageously, such cosmetic composition according to the present invention can comprise at least one dyestuff of the coloured material that is selected from organic or inorganic, particularly in cosmetic composition convention use pigment type or Margarita type, fat-soluble or water miscible dyestuff, there is material of specific optical effect and composition thereof.

That term " pigment " refers to is inorganic or organic, white or colored granule, and this granule is insoluble in aqueous solution, for the painted film obtaining and/or make the film that obtains opaque.

With respect to the gross weight of described cosmetic composition, pigment can be with by weight 0.1% to 40%, particularly by weight 1% to 30%, particularly 5% to 15% amount exists by weight.

With regard to operable inorganic pigment in the present invention, what can mention is titanium oxide, Zirconium oxide or cerium oxide and zinc oxide, iron oxides or chromated oxide, Prussian blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromic oxide gel.Preferably, compositions of the present invention at least comprises titanium oxide and iron oxides.

For example, it can also be that to have can be the pigment of the structure of silk Muscovitum/brown iron oxide/titania/silica type.For example, this pigment is the trade (brand) name COVERLEAF NS that sells of CHEMICALS AND CATALYSTS company or the pigment of COVERLEAF JS and has about 30 contrast.

Coloured material can also comprise that for example having can be the pigment of the structure of the silicon dioxide microsphere type that contains iron oxides.The example with the pigment of this structure is the pigment of the trade mark PC BALL PC-LL-100P by name of MIYOSHI company sale, and this pigment is made up of the silicon dioxide microsphere that contains yellow iron oxide.

Term " Margarita " refers to the colored particles of any shape flash of light or that do not glisten, is especially produced or is produced with synthesis mode by some molluscan housing, and having optical interference color effect.

With respect to the gross weight of described cosmetic composition, Margarita can be with by weight 0.1% to 30%, particularly by weight 0.5% to 20%, particularly 1% to 15% amount exists by weight.

Margarita can be selected from pearlescent pigment, for example, bismuth oxychloride, be coated with ferrum oxide odenite, be coated with bismuth oxychloride odenite, be coated with chromium oxide odenite, be coated with the odenite of organic dyestuff and the pearlescent pigment based on bismuth oxychloride.They can also be such mica particles: on the surface of this mica particles, stacked metal-oxide and/or organic coloring material is continuous at least two-layer.

As the example of Margarita, that can also mention has: the natural mica that is coated with titanium oxide, iron oxides, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

With regard to commercially available Margarita, that can mention has: TIMICA Margarita (based on Muscovitum), FLAMENCO Margarita (based on Muscovitum) and DUOCHROME Margarita (based on Muscovitum) that ENGALHARD company sells; The TIMIRON Margarita that MERCK company sells; The Margarita of the PRESTIGE that ECKART company sells based on Muscovitum; The Margarita of synthetic SUNCHINE based on Muscovitum of selling with SUN CHEMICAL company.

Margarita more specifically can reflect yellow, pink, redness, bronze colour, orange, brown and/or coppery or have yellow, pink, redness, bronze colour, orange, brown and/or coppery.

With regard to the example of the Margarita that can implement in the context of the present invention, that can mention has: colored Margarita, especially the Brilliant Gold212G(Timica by name, being sold by ENGELHARD company), Gold222C(Cloisonne), Sparkle Gold(Timica), Gold4504(Chromalite) and Monarch Gold233X(Cloisonne) colored Margarita; Bronze Margarita, especially the Bronze fine(17384 by name selling for Merck company) (Colorona) and Bronze(17353) bronze Margarita (Colorona), and the name that Engelhard company sells is called Super Bronze(Cloisonne) bronze Margarita; The name that orange Margarita, especially Engelhard company sell is called Orange363C(Cloisonne) and Orange MCR101(Cosmica) and Merck company sell be called Passion Orange(Colorona) and Matte Orange(17449) orange Margarita (Microna); The name that brown Margarita, especially Engelhard company sell is called Nu-Antique Copper340XB(Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509(Chromalite) brown Margarita; The name that the Margarita in coppery pool, especially Engelhard company sell is called Copper340A(Timica) the Margarita in coppery pool; The name that the Margarita in red pool, especially Merck company sell is called Sienna Fine(17386) Margarita in redness pool (Colorona); The name that the Margarita in yellow pool, especially Engelhard company sell is called Yellow(4502) Margarita in yellow pool (Chromalite); The name that the red Margarita in golden pool, especially Engelhard company sell is called Sunstone G012(Gemtone) the red Margarita in gold pool; The name that the Margarita of pink colour, especially Engelhard company sell is called Tan Opale G005(Gemtone) the Margarita of pink colour; The name that the black pearl shellfish in golden pool, especially Engelhard company sell is called Nu-Antique Bronze240AB(Timica) the black pearl shellfish in gold pool; The name that blue Margarita, especially Merck company sell is called Matte Blue(17433) blue Margarita (Microna); The name that the venezuelan shellfish in silver color pool, especially Merck company sell is called the venezuelan shellfish in the silver color pool of Xirona Silver; And the name that the Margarita of gold-green-Fructus Citri tangerinae pink colour, especially Merck company sell is called Indian Summer(Xirona) the Margarita of gold-green-Fructus Citri tangerinae pink colour; And composition thereof.

Also can comprise water solublity or fat-soluble dyestuff according to cosmetic composition of the present invention.For example, fat-soluble dyestuff is the red 17(DC Red17 of tonyred, DC), the green 6(DC Green6 of DC), the yellow 11(DC Yellow11 of beta-carotene, Oleum Glycines, sudan brown, DC), the purple 2(DC Violet2 of DC), DC orange 5(DC Orange5) and D C Yellow No. 10.For example, water miscible dyestuff is beet juice and caramel.

With respect to the gross weight of described cosmetic composition, dyestuff can with by weight 0.001% to 5%, particularly by weight 0.01% to 3%, particularly 0.025% to 1% amount exists by weight.

Can also comprise at least one and have the material of particular optical effect according to cosmetic composition of the present invention.

This effect is different from simple conventional color and luster effect, that is, and and consistent and the stable effect that produce by conventional coloured material (such as solid color pigments)." stable " in meaning of the present invention refers to along with visual angle or do not have the effect of change color in response to temperature change.

For example, this material can be selected from there is the granule of metallic luster, coloring agent, diffractive pigment, thermal change toner, optical brightener and the fiber (especially interference fibers) of goniochromatic.Certainly, these different materials can be combined to provide the outward appearance of two kinds of effects or even according to new effect of the present invention simultaneously.

The granule with metallic luster that can use in the present invention is especially selected from:

Granule-at least one metal and/or at least one metal derivative,

-following such granule: this granule contains the organic or inorganic substrate that a kind of material or multiple material are made, this substrate is covered by one deck at least at least in part, this at least one deck there is metallic luster and comprise at least one metal and/or at least one metal derivative, and

The mixture of-described granule.

With regard to the metal that can exist, for example, can mention Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te, Se and composition thereof or its alloy in described granule.Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr and composition thereof or alloy (for example, bronze and pyrite) are preferred metals.

Term " metal derivative " refers to the compound being obtained by metal, particularly oxide, fluoride, chloride and sulfide.

As the example of these granules, can mention alumina particles, such as, the STARBRITE1200 by name that SIBERLINE company sells

with being called that ECKART company sells

alumina particles.

Can also mention: copper metal powder end or alloy mixture, such as, copper metal powder end or the alloy mixture of the trade name 2844 that RADIUM BRONZE company sells; Metallic pigments, such as aluminum or bronze, the metallic pigments of the ROTOSAFE700 by name selling such as ECKART company; Alumina particles and the metal alloy particle of the coated with silica of the VISIONAIRE BRIGHT SILVER by name that ECKART company sells, bronze (alloy of copper and the zinc) powder of the coated with silica of the VISIONAIRE BRIGHT NATURAL GOLD by name that for example, ECKART company sells.

It can also be the granule that comprises glass baseplate, such as, the product of the MICROGLASS METASHINE by name that NIPPON SHEET GLASS company sells.

Goniochromatic coloring agent for example can be selected from interferes multiple structure and liquid crystal coloring agent.

In compositions prepared in accordance with the present invention, the example of the interference multiple structure of operable symmetry is for example following structure: Al/SiO ₂/ Al/SiO ₂/ Al, the pigment with this structure that DUPONT DE NEMOURS company sells; Cr/MgF ₂/ Al/MgF ₂/ Cr, the pigment with this structure of the trade mark CHROMAFLAIR by name that FLEX company sells; MoS ₂/ SiO ₂/ Al/SiO ₂/ MoS ₂; Fe ₂o ₃/ SiO ₂/ Al/SiO ₂/ Fe ₂o ₃and Fe ₂o ₃/ SiO ₂/ Fe ₂o ₃/ SiO ₂/ Fe ₂o ₃, the pigment with these structures of the trade mark SICOPEARL by name that BASF AG sells; MoS ₂/ SiO ₂/ Muscovitum-oxide/SiO ₂/ MoS ₂; Fe ₂o ₃/ SiO ₂/ Muscovitum-oxide/SiO ₂/ Fe ₂o ₃; TiO ₂/ SiO ₂/ TiO ₂and TiO ₂/ Al ₂o ₃/ TiO ₂; SnO/TiO ₂/ SiO ₂/ TiO ₂/ SnO; Fe ₂o ₃/ SiO ₂/ Fe ₂o ₃; SnO/ Muscovitum/TiO ₂/ SiO ₂/ TiO ₂/ Muscovitum/SnO, the pigment with these structures of the trade mark XIRONA by name that MERCK company (Darmstadt) sells.For instance, these pigment can be called the pigment with silicon dioxide/titanium oxide/tin-oxide structure of XIRONA MAGIC, the pigment with silicon dioxide/iron oxide brown structure of trade mark XIRONA INDIAN SUMMER by name and the pigment with silicon dioxide/titanium oxide/Muscovitum/tin-oxide structure of the trade mark XIRONA CARRIBEAN BLUE by name that MERCK company sells that MERCK company sells for the trade mark that MERCK company sells.Can also mention the INFINITE COLORS pigment of SHISEIDO company.According to the thickness of different layers and character, obtain different effects.Therefore, with regard to Fe ₂o ₃/ SiO ₂/ Al/SiO ₂/ Fe ₂o ₃structure, the SiO for 320nm to 350nm ₂layer, color changes to cervinus from fairy green; SiO for 380nm to 400nm ₂layer, color changes to gold from redness; SiO for 410nm to 420nm ₂layer, color changes to green from purple; SiO for 430nm to 440nm ₂layer, color changes to redness from coppery.

As the example of pigment with multilayer polymeric structure, can mention the pigment of the trade mark COLOR GLITTER by name that 3M company sells.

Operable liquid crystal goniochromatic granule is for example for the trade mark that liquid crystal goniochromatic granule and the WACKER company of the sale of CHENIX company sell is by name the liquid crystal goniochromatic granule of HC.

With respect to the gross weight of described compositions, these visions are dodged chromatic colorant agent can be with by weight 0.01% to 30%, 0.1% to 20% content be present in said composition especially by weight.

Physiologically acceptable medium

Except compound mentioned above, compositions according to the present invention comprises physiologically acceptable medium.

Term " physiologically acceptable medium " refers to and is particularly suitable for compositions of the present invention to be applied to the medium on skin or lip.

Physiologically acceptable medium is suitable type and the said composition form to be packaged into of the carrier of necessary spread compositions thereon conventionally.

Compositions of the present invention is the form of the W/O emulsion of the water that contains dispersion and continuous oil phase.

Water

Compositions according to the present invention comprises water, and with respect to the gross weight of said composition, the amount of water is 40% to 55% by weight.

In the time that aqueous phase content is less than 40%, emulsion is no longer stable, and in the time that aqueous phase content is greater than 55%, spreading property variation.

This water comprises water and any other water soluble compound that can exist, for example, particularly, water-soluble additives and solvent.

With regard to water-soluble solvent, especially, can mention and comprise 2 to 8 carbon atoms, 2 alcohol to 6 carbon atoms especially, for example, ethanol.

With regard to polyhydric alcohol, for example, can mention glycerol, butanediol and Polyethylene Glycol.

Water also can comprise other additives, for example, and polymer, the water-soluble dye etc. of water-soluble active ingredient, antiseptic, salt, gellant, filler, water miscible or water dispersible.

Fat phase

Can comprise at least one liquid and/or solid-state fatty phase according to cosmetic composition of the present invention.

Especially, compositions of the present invention can comprise at least one liquid fat phase, and especially at least one is as the oil of below mentioning.

Term " oil " refers to any fat-body for liquid form under room temperature (20 ℃ to 25 ℃) and atmospheric pressure.These oil can be animal origin, plant origin, mineral source or synthetic source.

According to an embodiment, the fat of compositions of the present invention comprises at least one ethereal oil and/or at least one nonvolatile oil mutually.

ethereal oil

According to an embodiment, the fat of compositions of the present invention comprises at least one ethereal oil mutually.The fat of compositions of the present invention can comprise the mixture of multiple ethereal oil mutually.

Term " ethereal oil " refers under room temperature and atmospheric pressure can be less than any anhydrous medium evaporating in 1 hour from skin or lip.This ethereal oil is to be at room temperature liquid volatility beautification oil.More specifically, ethereal oil has at 0.01mg/cm ²/ min and 200mg/cm ²the evaporation rate that (comprises end points) between/min.

In order to measure this evaporation rate, the oil to be tested of 15g or oil mixture are added in the crystallizer of diameter 7cm, and this crystallizer is placed at the temperature that temperature is controlled at 25 ℃ and humidity is controlled at the 0.3m of relative humidity 50% ³large-scale chamber on the balance placed.By containing the fan (PAPST-MOTOREN vertically placing above the crystallizer of solvent, label 8550N, under 2700rpm, rotate) ventilation is provided, and blade is towards crystallizer and apart from the bottom 20cm of crystallizer, this liquid is not stirred freely to evaporate by indwelling.With the quality of regular interval measurement remaining oil in crystallizer.Every SU (cm for evaporation rate ²) and per time unit (minute) evaporation oily mg represent.

Ethereal oil can be ethereal oil, the ethereal oil based on silicone or the ethereal oil based on fluorine based on hydrocarbon.

According to the present invention, term " silicone oil " refers to and comprises at least one silicon atom, the oil of at least one Si-O group especially.

Term " fluorocarbon oil " refers to the oil that comprises at least one fluorine atom.

Term " hydrocarbon ils " refers to the oil that mainly contains hydrogen atom and carbon atom.

Oil can comprise oxygen atom, nitrogen-atoms, sulphur atom and/or phosphorus atoms alternatively, for example, and with the form of hydroxyl or acidic group.

Ethereal oil is optional Zi containing 8 hydrocarbon ils to 16 carbon atoms, the especially C of side chain ₈-C ₁₆alkane (also referred to as isoparaffin or isoalkane), for example, Fancol ID (also referred to as 2,2,4,4,6-five methylheptane), isodecane, 2-Methylpentadecane, and for example, with trade (brand) name

or

the oil of selling.

As volatility hydrocarbon ils, can also mention: the C of straight chain ₉-C ₁₇alkane, for example, respectively with title

12-97 and

dodecane (C 14-97(Sasol) selling ₁₂) and the tetradecane (C ₁₄), and as the alkane obtaining according to the method for describing in International Application No. WO 2007/068371 A1, for example, with title

uT(Cognis) hendecane (C selling ₁₁) and tridecane (C ₁₃) mixture.

In volatility hydrocarbon ils, preferably Fancol ID and hendecane (C ₁₁) and tridecane (C ₁₃) mixture.

With regard to ethereal oil, can also use volatile silicone, for example, volatile silicone straight chain or loop chain, especially has and is less than or equal to 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 × 10 ^-6m ²/ viscosity s) and especially have 2 to 10 silicon atoms, particularly 2 volatile silicones to 7 silicon atoms, wherein, these silicone comprise having 1 alkyl to 10 carbon atoms or alkoxyl alternatively.With regard to operable volatile silicone oils in the present invention, especially can mention the dimethicone, octamethylcy-clotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, seven methyl hexyl trisiloxanes, seven Methyl Octyl trisiloxanes, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane of the viscosity with 5cSt and 6cSt and composition thereof.

More specifically, with regard to volatile silicone oils, can mention and have 2 to the straight chain of 7 silicon atoms or the silicone oil of loop chain, wherein, these silicone oil comprise having 1 alkyl to 10 carbon atoms or alkoxyl alternatively.

With regard to preferred example, can mention decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

In volatile silicone oils, preferably dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

With regard to volatility fluorocarbon oil, for example, can mention perfluor methyl butyl ether or FLUTEC PC 1 trifluoromethyl-cyclopentane. and composition thereof.

nonvolatile oil

According to an embodiment, the fat of compositions of the present invention comprises at least one nonvolatile oil mutually.The fat of compositions of the present invention can comprise the mixture of multiple nonvolatile oil mutually.

Term " nonvolatile oil " refers to and under room temperature and atmospheric pressure, is retained in the oil on skin or keratin fiber.More specifically, nonvolatile oil has and is strictly less than 0.01mg/cm ²the evaporation rate of/min.

Especially, nonvolatile oil can be selected from non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, non-volatile fluorocarbon oil and/or non-volatile silicone oil.

With regard to non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, can mention:

The hydrocarbon ils of-animal origin, for example, perfluor zamene,

The hydrocarbon ils of-plant origin, such as: vegetable stearin base ester, such as, vegetable oil acid stearyl, vegetable stearin base isostearate and lauroyl/octyl dodecanol/vegetable stearin base ester glutamate, Glu (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203), the triglyceride being made up of the fatty acid ester of glycerol, particularly its fatty acid can have C ₄to C ₃₆, C especially ₁₈to C ₃₆chain length, these oil can be straight or branched, saturated or undersaturated, these oil can be especially D3-C7 or Trivent OCG, cream wood fruit oil, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, Semen Cucurbitae oil, millet oil, large wheat oil, Quinoa oil, rye-seed oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil, shea butter, aloe, Semen pruni armeniacae oil, peach kernel oil, Oleum Arachidis hypogaeae semen, Argan oil, American Avocado Tree oil, baobab oil, horse dam oil (barrage oil), Caulis et Folium Brassicae capitatae oil, Flos Inulae oil, cameline oil, Oleum Brassicae campestris, carrot oil, safflower oil, cannabis oil, Oleum Brassicae campestris, cotton seed oil, Oleum Cocois, calabash seed oil, Semen Tritici aestivi germ oil, Jojoba oil, Bulbus Lilii caul-fat, macadimia nut oil, Semen Maydis oil, Bai Manghua seed oil, Herba Hyperici perforati oil, Tahiti's caul-fat, hazelnut oil, almond oil, macadamia nut oil, olive oil, Radix Oenotherae erythrosepalae oil, Petiolus Trachycarpi oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi fruit seed oil, Oleum Vitis viniferae, happy fruit oil, Semen Cucurbitae oil, east squash oil, Quinoa oil, musk rose oil, Oleum sesami, soybean oil, sunflower oil, Oleum Ricini and watermelon oil and composition thereof, or caprylic/capric triglyceride that can alternative, such as, the trade mark that STEARINERIES DUBOIS company's product sold or DYNAMIT NOBEL company sell is by name

with product,

The hydrocarbon of the straight or branched in-mineral source or synthetic source, for example, liquid paraffin and its derivant, vaseline, poly decene, polybutene, Parleam (for example, Parleam), squalane;

-contain 10 synthetic ethers to 40 carbon atoms,

-synthetic ester, for example, chemical formula is R ₁cOOR ₂oil, wherein, R ₁represent to contain 1 to the straight chain of 40 carbon atoms or the fatty acid residue of side chain, and R ₂represent chain based on hydrocarbon, especially for to contain 1 side chain to 40 carbon atoms, condition is R ₁and R ₂be more than or equal to 10.These esters especially can be selected from the ester of fatty acid and alcohol, for example: sad cetearyl alcohol alcohol ester; Isopropyl alcohol ester, such as, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, Palmic acid 2-ethyl hexyl ester, isopropyl stearate, IPIS, isostearyl isostearate ester, octyl stearate; Hydroxylated ester, for example, isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate; Heptanoate, and enanthic acid isostearate especially; Caprylate alcohol or polyhydric alcohol, decanoin or monoricinolein, for example, propylene glycol dicaprylate, sad hexadecyl ester, sad 13 esters, 2-ethylhexyl 4-bis-heptanoates, 2-ethylhexyl 4-cetylate, alkyl benzoate, Polyethylene Glycol two heptanoates, propylene glycol 2-diethyl alkyl caproate and composition thereof; C ₁₂-C ₁₅alkyl benzoate, lauric acid hexyl ester; Pivalate, for example, Dermol 105, different 13 esters of neopentanoic acid, isooctadecanol pivalate or octyl dodecanol pivalate; Different pelargonate, for example, isononyl isononanoate, the different pelargonate of different tridecyl alcohol, different octyl pelargonate; Hydroxylated ester, for example, isostearyl lactate and two isooctadecanol malates,

-polyol ester and pentaerythritol ester, for example, dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxy-stearic acid ester/tetraoctyl stearate,

The dimeric ester of-glycol dimer and diacid, for example, the ester of describing in patent application US2004-175338 and the Lusplan selling by NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL company

and Lusplan

The dimeric copolymer of-glycol dimer and diacid and ester thereof, such as the dimeric copolymer of dilinoleic acid base glycol dimer/dilinoleic acid and ester thereof, for example, Plandool-G,

The dimeric copolymer of-polyhydric alcohol and binary acid and ester thereof, for example, Hailuscent ISDA, or the copolymer of dilinoleic acid/butanediol,

-be at room temperature liquid fatty alcohol, this fatty alcohol has and contains 12 side chains to 26 carbon atoms and/or undersaturated carbochain, for example, 2-octyldodecanol, isooctadecanol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyl capryl alcohol and 2-undecyl pentadecanol

-C ₁₂-C ₂₂higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid and composition thereof, and

-dialkyl carbonate, the chain of two alkyl can be identical or different, such as, it is by name that COGNIS company sells

dicaprylyl carbonate,

The oil of-higher molar mass, the molal weight having especially at about 400g/mol to about 10000g/mol, especially about 650g/mol to about 10000g/mol, especially about 750g/mol is to about 7500g/mol, more specifically the scope from about 1000g/mol to about 5000g/mol; With regard to the oil of operable higher molar mass in the present invention, especially can mention and be selected from following oil:

● lipophilic polymer,

● contain total carbon atom number and be 35 to 70 straight-chain fatty acid ester,

● hydroxylated ester,

● aromatic ester,

● C ₂₄-C ₂₈the fatty acid of side chain or the ester of fatty alcohol,

● silicone oil,

● the oil of plant origin,

● and composition thereof;

-be based in part on alternatively hydrocarbon and/or the fluorocarbon oil based on silicone, for example, as the fluorosilicone oil of describing in document EP-A-847752, the polyethers of fluoridizing or the silicone fluoridized;

-silicone oil, for example: the polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) of nonvolatile and straight chain or loop chain; Comprise the polydimethylsiloxane of alkyl group, alkoxy base or phenyl group, these groups be dangle or in the end of polysiloxane chain, described group contains 2 to 24 carbon atoms; Benzene is for polysiloxanes, for example, phenyl trimethyl polysiloxanes, phenyl dimethyl polysiloxane, phenyl-trimethylsiloxy group-diphenyl siloxane, diphenyl polydimethylsiloxane, diphenyl methyl diphenyl-trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl) trimethylsiloxy group esters of silicon acis, and

-its mixture.

In the mineral source of straight or branched or the hydrocarbon in synthetic source, preferably use paraffin oil or vaseline.

In the hydrocarbon ils of plant origin, preferably, can mention vegetable oil, for example, Semen pruni armeniacae oil, Jojoba oil or macadimia nut oil.

In artificial oil, for example, synthetic ester, especially uses Dermol 105 or isononyl isononanoate; And in synthetic ether, preferably use dicaprylyl ether (dicapryl ether).

In non-volatile silicone oil, preferably use polydimethylsiloxane, phenyl trimethyl polysiloxanes or alkyl-dimethyl based polysiloxane.

According to an embodiment, with respect to the gross weight of compositions of the present invention, the fat of described compositions accounts for percentage ratio 15% to 70%, preferably 20% to 50% mutually.

Thickening agent

According to the mobility of expecting the compositions obtaining, one or more thickening agents or gellant can be merged in compositions of the present invention.

It can be hydrophilic being suitable for thickening agent of the present invention or gellant, that is, water miscible or water dispersible.

With regard to hydrophilic gelling agent, especially can mention the thickening polymer of water miscible or water dispersible.Described polymer especially can be selected from: CVP Carbopol ETD2050 modification or unmodified, for example, the name that Goodrich company sells is called Carbopol(CTFA name: carbomer) product; Polyacrylate and polymethacrylates, for example, the name that GUARDIAN company sells is called the product that name that the product of Lubrajel and Norgel or HISPANO CHIMICA company sell is called Hispagel; Polyacrylamide; The polymer of 2-acrylamide-2-methyl propane sulfonic and copolymer, it is crosslinked alternatively and/or neutralizes, for example, the name that CLARIANT company sells is called poly-(the 2-acrylamide-2-methyl propane sulfonic) of " Hostacerin AMPS " (CTFA name: polypropylene acyl group dimethyl taurine ammonium); Crosslinked anion acrylamide/AMPS copolymer (with the form of W/O emulsion), for example, the name that SEPPIC company sells is called SEPIGEL305(CTFA title: polyacrylamide/C13-14 isoparaffin/laureth-7) and be called SIMULGEL600(CTFA title: acrylamide/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymers/2-Methylpentadecane/polysorbate80) product; Polysaccharide biopolymer, for example, xanthan gum, guar gum, tracasol, Radix Acaciae senegalis, scleroglucan, chitin derivativ and chitosan derivatives, carrageenin, gellan, alginate or cellulose (for example, microcrystalline Cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, hydroxy methocel and hydroxypropyl cellulose); And composition thereof.

It can be lipophilic being suitable for thickening agent of the present invention or gellant, and it can be inorganic matter or Organic substance.

With regard to lipotropy thickening agent, for example, can mention modified clay, for example: modification magnesium silicate (the Bentone gel VS38 of RHEOX); The Strese Hofmann's hectorite. of modification, for example, by C ₁₀to C ₂₂the Strese Hofmann's hectorite. of fatty acid chlorination ammonium modification, for example, by the Strese Hofmann's hectorite. of VARISOFT TA100 modification, for example, the name that ELEMENTIS company sells is called

product or the RHEOX company name of selling be called the product that name that the product of " Bentone38CE " or ELEMENTIS company sell is called Bentone Gel V55V.

For example, poly-organic lipotropy gellant is the part or all of crosslinked elastic organic polyorganosiloxane with three dimensional structure, and the trade mark that for example SHIN-ETSU company sells is by name

with

product, the trade mark Trefil by name that DOW-CORNING company sells and Trefil

product, the trade mark Gransil by name that GRANT INDUSTRIES company sells sR

with SR DC556

product, the trade mark SF by name that GENERAL ELECTRIC company sells and JK

product; Ethyl cellulose, for example, the trade mark that DOW CHEMICAL company sells is by name product; The condensation polymer of the polyamide type being produced by the condensation between the dicarboxylic acids that contains at least 32 carbon atoms and alkylene diamidogen (especially ethylene diamine), wherein, described polymer comprises at least one carboxylic acid group's end group, this carboxylic acid group's end group is contained 12 to 30 carbon atom, straight chain and saturated, at least one single methanols or a kind of monoamine esterification or amidatioon, this condensation polymer is ethylenediamine/stearyl alcohol dilinoleic acid ester copolymer especially, for example, the trade mark Uniclear100 by name that ARIZONA CHEMICAL company sells

product; Each monosaccharide contains 1 to 6, the galactomannan of hydroxyl of 2 to 4 especially, and it is replaced by saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, for example, and by C ₁to C ₆alkyl chain, C especially ₁to C ₃the alkylating guar gum of alkyl chain; With its mixture; The block copolymer of following " diblock ", " three blocks " or " radially " type: polystyrene/polyisoprene or polystyrene/polybutadiene type, for example, the trade mark that BASF AG sells is by name

product; Polystyrene/copolymerization (ethylene-propylene) type, the trade mark of selling such as SHELL CHEMICAL company is by name product; Or polystyrene/copolymerization (ethylene-butylene) type, the triblock copolymer in Fancol ID and the radially mixture of (star) copolymer, for example, the trade mark that PENRECO company sells is by name

product, for example, the mixture (Versagel M5960) of the butylene/ethylene/styrene triblock copolymer in Fancol ID and ethylene/propene/styrene radial copolymer.

In cosmetic composition of the present invention, in operable lipotropy gellant, can also mention the ester of dextrin and fatty acid, for example, dextrin cetylate, the trade mark that especially for example CHIBA FLOUR company sells is by name

or

product; Hydrogenated vegetable oil, for example, castor oil hydrogenated; Fatty alcohol, especially C ₈to C ₂₆, C especially ₁₂to C ₂₂fatty alcohol, for example tetradecanol, hexadecanol, octadecanol and tadenan.

According to an embodiment, with respect to the gross weight of described compositions, the thickening agent that described compositions can comprise is by weight 0.01% to 40%, is especially by weight 0.1% to 20%, is 0.3% to 15% especially by weight with respect to the content of active material.

According to one preferred embodiment, described compositions comprises at least one lipotropy thickening agent, the Strese Hofmann's hectorite. of at least one modification especially, for example, and by C ₁₀to C ₂₂the Strese Hofmann's hectorite. of fatty acid chlorination ammonium modification, advantageously, with respect to the gross weight of described compositions, the content of this lipotropy thickening agent is 0.1% to 5% by weight, is 0.5% to 2% especially by weight.

Filler

Can also comprise the filler of at least one organic nature or inorganic in nature according to compositions of the present invention, it especially can give following other performance for compositions: the stability of dumb light, covering power and/or improvement or endurance.

With respect to the gross weight of described compositions, the content of filler can be 0.1% to 20% by weight, be 1% to 12% especially by weight.

Term " filler " should be understood as that the colourless or white solid particle that represents any shape, and this solid particle is form undissolved in the medium of compositions or that disperse.The inorganic in nature of filler or organic nature can be given agglomerate or rigidity and/or give pliability and uniformity for making up compositions.

Can be thin slice, spherical or balled form or fibers form or any other intermediate form between these finite forms according to the filler using in compositions of the present invention.

Filler can or surface-coated not, especially they can or promote the dispersibility of filler in compositions and any other material of the compatibility to carry out surface-coated by silicone, aminoacid, the derivant of fluoridizing.

The example of the inorganic filler that can mention has the complex of silicon dioxide microsphere, Kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass microcapsule or ceramic microcapsule, silicon dioxide and the titanium dioxide of Talcum, Muscovitum, silicon dioxide, hollow, for example, the TSG series that Nippon Sheet Glass company sells.

The example of the organic filler that can mention have polyamide powder (Atochem company

orgasol), polyethylene powders, polymethyl methacrylate powder, polytetrafluorethylepowder powder (Teflon), acrylic copolymer powder (Polytrap of Dow Corning company), aminoacid Laurel alcohol ester, the polymerizing microballoons of hollow (for example, the polymerizing microballoons of the muriatic hollow of polyvinylidene/propylene cyanogen, for example, Expancel(Nobel Industry)), hexamethylene diisocyanate/trihydroxy methyl caprolactone copolymer powder (the Plastic Powder of Toshiki), silicone resin microballon (for example, the Tospearl of Toshiba), synthetic or natural micronized wax, be derived from and there are 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 metallic soaps to the organic carboxyl acid of 18 carbon atoms (for example, zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, Dodecanoic acid, zinc salt, tetradecylic acid magnesium

l200(Chemdal company), the crosslinked elastic organic polyorganosiloxane powder that applied by organic siliconresin (silsesquioxane resins of especially for example describing in patent US 5 538 793), polyurethane powder (especially, comprise the crosslinked polyurethane powder of copolymer, wherein, described copolymer comprises trihydroxy methyl caprolactone).Especially, it can be the polymer of hexamethylene diisocyanate/trihydroxy methyl caprolactone.Such granule is especially commercially available, and for example, the name that TOSHIKI company sells is called PLASTIC POWDER or PLASTIC POWDER

product and its mixture.

According to a specific embodiment of the present invention, described compositions comprises the crosslinked elastic organic polyorganosiloxane powder that at least one is applied by organic siliconresin.The existence of this filler can make compositions multiviscosisty of the present invention and/or gelation.

With respect to the gross weight of described compositions, the crosslinked elastic organic polyorganosiloxane powder being applied by organic siliconresin by weight can be with 0.5% to 12%, advantageously by weight with 2% to 10%, preferably exist with the content in 7% to 9% scope by weight.

In particular, the cross-linking elasticity organopolysiloxane powder being applied by organic siliconresin that can mention, the silsesquioxane resins of especially for example describing in patent US 5 538 793.Such elastomer powder is that the trade mark that SHIN ETSU company sells is called

with

powder.The cross-linking elasticity organopolysiloxane powder being applied by organic siliconresin that can also mention for example has: by the functionalized mixing organosilicon powder of fluoroalkyl, and the product of the commodity " KSP-200 " by name that especially Shin Etsu company sells; Or by the functionalized mixing organosilicon powder of phenyl, the product of the trade mark " KSP-300 " by name that especially Shin Etsu company sells.

Emulsifying agent

Compositions of the present invention also can comprise one or more emulsifying agents.

With regard to emulsifying agent, especially can mention poly-hydroxylated polyoxyalkylene glycol fatty acid emulsifier.

Preferably, the ester that poly-hydroxylated polyoxyalkylene glycol fatty acid ester is fatty acid and Polyethylene Glycol.

The ester of fatty acid and polyoxyalkylene glycol can be monoesters or polyester, especially diester or three esters.

Fatty acid can comprise 12 to 20 carbon atoms, preferred 14 to 18 carbon atoms.It especially can be selected from oleic acid, Palmic acid, stearic acid and composition thereof.

Polyethylene Glycol can comprise the ethylene oxide of 4mol to 50mol, the more preferably ethylene oxide of 20mol to 40mol.

According to an embodiment, use the Polyethylene Glycol of the ethylene oxide that comprises 20mol to 40mol and the ester of poly-hydroxylated fatty acid (wherein, described poly-hydroxylated fatty acid comprises 14 to 18 carbon atoms), especially poly-hydroxy stearic acid, preferably diester.

Especially, the ester of fatty acid and polyoxyalkylene glycol is the form of ordered polymer, preferably has the structure of ABA, and it comprises poly-(hydroxylated ester) and Polyethylene Glycol sequence.

The fatty acid ester of described polymer has and comprises 12 to 20 carbon atoms, preferred 14 chains to 18 carbon atoms.

As described in restriction above, the Polyethylene Glycol sequence preference of Emulgating polymers comprises the ethylene oxide of 4mol to 50mol, the more preferably ethylene oxide of 20mol to 40mol.

The Polyethylene Glycol dimerization hydroxy stearic acid ester of the compound that is particularly suitable for the producing compositions of the present invention ethylene oxide with 30mol that to be Croda company sell with trade (brand) name " CITHROL DPHS-SO-(MV) ".

With respect to according to the gross weight of compositions of the present invention, the amount of the polyoxyalkylene glycol conventionally existing in described compositions can be 0.1% to 15% by weight, be by weight preferably 0.5% to 10%, be more preferably 1% to 5% by weight.

According to an embodiment, except the ester emulsifying agent of polyoxyalkylene glycol and poly-hydroxylated fatty acid, compositions of the present invention also can comprise other emulsifying agent (or surfactant), and it is also referred to as co-emulsifier.In the time there is no the ester of polyoxyalkylene glycol and poly-hydroxylated fatty acid, this co-emulsifier can not make separately composition stability of the present invention.

For example, this other emulsifying agent can be selected from: be derived from the nonionic emulsifier of polyhydric alcohol-fatty acid, the polyolefin with succinic acid end group and mixture thereof.

With regard to thering is the polyolefin of succinic acid end group, particularly, polyisobutylene and its salt, the especially diethanolamine salt that can mention the succinic acid end group with esterification, for example, Lubrizol company is with title Lubrizol2724, Lubrizol2722 and Lubrizol5603 product sold.

Preferably, other emulsifying agent is selected from the ester of polyhydric alcohol-fatty acid.

Refer to the ester of such polyhydric alcohol-fatty acid according to term of the present invention " ester of polyhydric alcohol-fatty acid ": wherein, fatty acid comprises C ₆to C ₂₂, preferred C ₁₆to C ₂₀alkyl chain, polyhydric alcohol is selected from glycerol, polyglycerol, sorbitan and composition thereof.Fatty acid can also be polymerized form, and poly-hydroxy stearic acid (12-hydroxy stearic acid polymer) is exactly this situation.

According to a specific embodiment, polyhydric alcohol-fatty acid ester is the C of fatty acid and glycerol and/or sorbitan ₁₆-C ₂₀ester and its mixture.

C ₁₆-C ₂₀the example of fatty acid of straight or branched can mention stearic acid, isostearic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, Palmic acid.C ₁₆-C ₂₀the example of the polymer of fatty acid can mention that 12-gathers hydroxy stearic acid.Preferably, will use the poly-hydroxy stearic acid of stearic acid, isostearic acid or 12-or its mixture.

Term " polyglycerol " refers to the compound of following formula:

Wherein, condensation degree n is 1 to 11, preferably 2 to 6, more preferably 3 to 6.

According to a specific embodiment, the ester of polyhydric alcohol-fatty acid comprises 2mol to 10mol(unit) polyhydric alcohol, preferably 2mol to 4mol polyhydric alcohol, especially 2 to the glycerol of 4 unit or the mixture of polyglycerol (glycerol, diglycerol, triglycerol, polyglycereol-4, five polyglycereol, low polyglycereol).

More preferably, the ester of polyhydric alcohol-fatty acid comprises 4mol(or unit) polyhydric alcohol, the glycerol of 4mol (or unit) especially.

According to preferred embodiment, the ester of described polyhydric alcohol-fatty acid is also to have 2 to 16 carbon atoms, preferred 8 dicarboxylic acids to 14 carbon atoms (for example, Azelaic Acid, decanedioic acid, dodecanedioic acid, preferably decanedioic acid (C ₁₀)) and the fatty acid ester of polyhydric alcohol.

In compositions of the present invention, the example of the ester of operable polyhydric alcohol-fatty acid can be mentioned the ester of isostearic acid and polyhydric alcohol and the ester of its mixture, especially isostearic acid and glycerol and/or sorbitan, for example: the Isolan by name that Goldschmidt company sells

polyglycerol isostearate (4mol) (INCI title: polyglyceryl-4 isostearate); The Lameform by name that Cognis company sells

polyglycerol diisopstearate (3mol); The Emalex by name that Nihon emulsion company sells

polyglycerol distearate (2mol); The polyglycerol list isostearate (10mol) (INCI title: polyglyceryl-10 isostearate) of the Nikkol Decaglyn1-IS by name that Nihon Surfactant company sells; The name that Goldschmidt company sells is called the poly-hydroxy stearic acid sebacate of polyglyceryl-4 two isostearic acid of ISOLAN GPS; The mixture of Sorbitol isostearate and glycerol isostearate, the name of selling such as ICI company is called the product of Arlacel986; The name that Uniquema company sells is called the Sorbitol isostearate of Arlacel1690 and the mixture of polyglycerol isostearate (3mol); The name that Uniquema company sells is called

sorbitol isostearate and the mixture of polyglycerol isostearate (3mol); With its mixture.

Can also mention organic silicon surfactant, for example, dimethicone copolyol and alkyl dimethicone copolyol, for example, the Cyclomethicone that Dow Corning company sells with title " DC5225C " and the mixture of dimethicone copolyol, the lauryl methyl polysiloxanes copolyol that Dow Corning company sells with title " Dow Corning5200Formulation Aid ", and Goldschmidt company is with title the cetyl dimethicone copolyol of selling.

Preferably, other emulsifying agent is selected from fatty acid ester, preferably C ₁₆to C ₂₀fatty acid (especially stearic acid or isostearic acid) and be selected from the fatty acid ester of the polyhydric alcohol of glycerol and/or sorbitan.

With respect to the gross weight of described compositions, the weight percent content (dry) that other emulsifying agent can exist is 0.05% to 5%, preferably 0.1 to 1%.

According to another embodiment, compositions according to the present invention comprises and is less than 2%, is preferably less than 1%, is even more preferably less than 0.5% other emulsifying agent, and it especially can not contain other emulsifying agent.

Compositions of the present invention also can comprise at least one organosilyl surfactant.

Compositions according to the present invention comprises the organosilyl surfactant (or surfactant) that is selected from ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polydimethylsiloxane (being also referred to as dimethicone copolyol) and ethylene oxide and propylene oxide alkyl polydimethylsiloxane (being also referred to as alkyl dimethicone copolyol) (its alkyl chain comprises the carbon atom that is less than 12) and composition thereof.

Preferably, organic silicon surfactant comprises the polyethylene oxide chain that is grafted on main chain and polypropylene oxide chain (polyethylene glycol oxide and polypropylene oxide are side chain or the chain that dangles).

Advantageously, (alkyl) polydimethylsiloxane using in emulsion according to the present invention has the polyethylene glycol oxide of following chemical formula and the side chain of polypropylene oxide:

-(C _xH _2x)-(OC ₂H ₄) _a-(OC ₃H ₆) _b-OR ₁₀

Wherein

-R ₁₀represent hydrogen atom, there is 1 alkyl to the straight or branched of 12 carbon atoms, preferably represent hydrogen atom,

-a from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 50, more preferably 10 to 30 variations,

-b from 1 to 100, preferably 2 to 50, more preferably 10 to 30 variations,

-x from 1 to 5 variation.

The number-average molecular weight of organosilyl surfactant is more than or equal to 15000 conventionally, preferably greater than or equal to 30000 and can be 40000 to 100000, especially in 50000 to 100000 scope.

The example that belongs to such organo-silicon compound can be mentioned ethylene oxide and propylene oxide polydimethylsiloxane (OE/OP18/18), its INCI title is PEG/PPG18/18 polydimethylsiloxane, and it comes with the form of the mixture of polydimethylsiloxane to sell (INCI name: polydimethylsiloxane/PEG/PPG-18/18 polydimethylsiloxane) with trade (brand) name X-22-6711D or by Dow Corning company with title ES-5226DM by Shin Etsu company.

With respect to according to the gross weight of compositions of the present invention, the weight percent content of the organosilyl surfactant existing in described compositions can be 0.1% to 15% conventionally, preferably 0.5% to 10%, more preferably 1% to 5%.

Additive

Also can be included in any additive of commonly using in the field of consideration according to cosmetic composition of the present invention; for example; this additive is selected from natural gum, anion surfactant, cationic surfactant, amphoteric surfactant or nonionic surfactant, organic silicon surfactant, natural gum, resin, dispersant, semi-crystal polymer, antioxidant, essential oil, antiseptic, spice, nertralizer, antibacterial, anti-UV protective agent, cosmetic active agent (for example, vitamin, wetting agent, emollient or collagen protective agent) and its mixture.

Those skilled in the art can be adjusted according to the type of the additive existing in compositions of the present invention and consumption by routine operation, makes the required beauty treatment performance of these compositionss and stability not be subject to the impact of additive.

UV filtering agent

Compositions of the present invention also can comprise at least one UV filtering agent.

Non-limiting example with regard to UV filtering agent can be mentioned following material: anthranilate, especially methyl anthranilate; Benzophenone, especially BP-1, BP-3, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-8, Benzophenone 9, BP-1 2 and preferred BP-2 (oxybenzone) or UVINUL MS 40 (can be bought from BASF ); Benzylidene-camphanone, especially 3-benzylidene-camphanone, benzylidene-camphanone-sulfonic acid, camphanone zephiran Methylsulfate, polyacrylamide methylbenzene methylene camphanone, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, and preferably 4-methylbenzene methylene camphanone (can be bought from Merck company

); Benzimidazole, especially benzimidazole compound (benzimidazilate) (can be from the Neo of Haarmann and Reimer purchase

), Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid (can from Merck company buy

); Benzotriazole, especially Ethylhexysalicylate, di-2-ethylhexylphosphine oxide benzotriazole base tetramethyl butyl phenol (can be bought from Ciba

); (and preferably second Ke Lilin (ethocrylene) (can be from the Uvinul of BASF purchase for cinnamate, especially cinoxate, DEA Methoxycinnamate, diisopropyl methyl cinnamic acid ester, glyceryl ethyl hexanoate dimethoxy-cinnamic acid ester, isopropyl Methoxycinnamate, isopentyl cinnamate

)), octyl methoxycinnamate (can buy from Hoffmann La Roche

) or octocrylene (can from BASF buy ); Dibenzoyl methane, especially butyl methoxydibenzoylmethise ( ); Imidazoline, especially ethylhexyl dimethoxy benzylidene dioxy imidazoline; PABA, especially ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA, glyceryl PABA, PABA and PEG-25PABA, preferably diethylhexyl butylamine triazinone (can be bought from 3V Sigma

), Uvinul T 150 (can be bought from BASF

) or ethyl PABA(benzocaine); Salicylate, especially dipropylene glycol salicylate, Ethylhexyl salicylate, heliophan or TEA salicylate; Triazine is especially that non-s-triazine (anisotriazine) is (from Ciba's

); Ethylhexysalicylate, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, and coating or uncoated zinc oxide, ferrum oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide.

Preferably, preferably use cinnamate, salicylate and its mixture or titanium dioxide.According to an embodiment, compositions of the present invention comprises the UV filtering agent that is selected from cinnamate.

According to a specific embodiment, preferably use octyl methoxycinnamate, also referred to as ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamic acid value.

The consumption of filtering agent depends on required final use.For example, with respect to the gross weight of described compositions, the consumption of filtering agent can be 1% to 20% by weight, be more preferably 2% to 10% by weight.

Particularly, cosmetic composition of the present invention can be the form that liquid foundation or fluid foundation cream, heat are poured into foundation cream product, body shaping cosmetic product, concealer, eye cream or cosmetic substrate.

Especially can be barrier compositions, protective skin cream, essence or body note agent according to skin care compositions of the present invention.

Preferably, compositions of the present invention is the form of foundation cream.

Can be by can equally distributed any means smearing according to compositions of the present invention, especially use finger or cotton ball, rod, brush, gauze, spatula or buffer, or by splash, and clean or use gentle cleaning agent to remove by water.

Compositions of the present invention can be implemented to improve the overall state of epidermis, especially skin, especially keeps or restores its physiological function and/or its aesthetic appearance.

Therefore, compositions of the present invention can advantageously be implemented to resist the aging of epidermis, to maintain and/or to stimulate hydration and/or resist the dry of skin, to improve flexibility and the elasticity of the colour of skin, maintenance or recovery skin, improve the mineralising of epidermis, improve the vigor of epidermis, promote chapping and ftractureing outward appearance of intercellular exchange and antagonism skin.

Can be for beautifying use and/or dermatological purposes according to compositions of the present invention.

The invention still further relates to and comprise that at least one coloring agent and at least one have the beautifying use of the cosmetic composition for skin protection and/or cosmetic of the jasmonic derivative compound of the formula (I) being defined as above, especially the beautifying use of non-therapeutic, and described compositions is the form of water-in-oil emulsion, described water-in-oil emulsion is included in the fat middle water disperseing mutually, wherein said water account for by weight described compositions gross weight 40% to 55%, to prevent skin aging.

The invention still further relates at least one coloring agent in compositions and at least one and there is the beautifying use that prevents skin aging of the jasmonic derivative compound of the formula (I) limiting, the beautifying use of non-therapeutic especially above, wherein, described compositions is the form of water-in-oil emulsion, described water-in-oil emulsion be included in fat mutually in disperse water, wherein said water account for by weight described compositions gross weight 40% to 55%.

The invention still further relates to a kind of cosmetic treatment method, it is included on skin and uses as compositions defined above.

The invention still further relates to a kind of skin protection and/or cosmetic method of non-therapeutic, be included in and on skin, use at least one deck as the step of compositions defined above.

The invention still further relates to a kind of cutization cosmetic method, wherein use as compositions defined above.

The specific embodiment

Embodiment

The definition of stability

According to the present invention, after term " stable emulsion " refers to and under room temperature (20 ℃ to 22 ℃), emulsion preserved 7 days, emulsion does not show any macroscopic view and changes.

The product that is encapsulated in the 300g in the wide mouthed bottle of 660ml is stablized, and this wide mouthed bottle is by aluminium lid hermetic seal.

A– the impact of aqueous phase content on stability

The example 1 of the foundation cream of fluid to example 7 can illustrate, in the time that aqueous phase content is less than 40%, and the stability deficiency of foundation cream.

process

After the composition of phase A1 is weighed, put into main beaker, then at room temperature use Moritz agitator with 1200rpm-1400rpm speed by its homogenization.

Then, add phase A2, then add phase A3, phase A2, phase A3 have ground by craft and previous preparation, finally add phase A4, stir 15 minutes until evenly simultaneously.

By the mixture of pigment and cyclohexasiloxane being ground and prepares individually phase A5 three times in three-roller type roll squeezer.

Phase A5 is added and becomes owner of beaker and the mixing speed of Moritz agitator increased to 1400rpm-1500rpm gradually simultaneously, then continue to stir 20 minutes.

Except jasmonic acid derivative and phenoxyethanol, respectively the composition of phase B is weighed.At the temperature of about 30 ℃ to 35 ℃, use magnetic stirring apparatus by its homogenization, then add jasmonic acid derivative and phenoxyethanol.

Then, by phase B is watered and become owner of in beaker, and mixing speed is increased to 4000rpm gradually, then hold it under this speed and continue 10 minutes, produce emulsification.

Then mixing speed reduces a little, adds ethanol and essence.Mixture is stirred 2 minutes again, and then product is encapsulated in glass jar.

stability result

These results show: in the time that water percentage ratio is greater than 40%, compositions is stable.

B- the impact of aqueous phase content on beauty treatment performance

Relatively finding out of the fluid foundation cream of embodiment 1 and embodiment 8, in the time that aqueous phase content is greater than 55%, the beauty treatment performance of foundation cream is so not good.

the process of embodiment 8

After the composition of phase A1 is weighed, put into main beaker, then at room temperature use Moritz agitator with the speed of 1500rpm by its homogenization.

Then, add phase A2, then add phase A3, phase A2, phase A3 grind by craft and previously preparation, finally add phase A4, stir 15 minutes until evenly simultaneously.

Phase A5 is added and becomes owner of beaker and the mixing speed of Moritz agitator increased to 1600rpm gradually simultaneously, then continue to stir 20 minutes.

sensory evaluation

Require the group of 4 Ms's compositions between the age from 20 years old to 50 years old to use two kinds of foundation creams, their every one side of something is used a kind of foundation cream on the face.

This assessment illustrates, embodiment 1(the present invention) foundation cream more easily use, more smooth and more comfortable.Embodiment 8(comparison) foundation cream obtain the more cosmetic results of powdered, it has the tendency of observability that increases concavo-convex defect (pore, wrinkle).After using, it causes hard and compared with the film of viscosity.

Finally, the Ms in group prefers embodiment 1(the present invention) foundation cream.

Claims

1. comprise a compositions for physiologically acceptable medium, described compositions comprises:

-at least one coloring agent; With

-at least one has following formula I) jasmonic derivative compound:

Wherein:

.R ₁represent COOR ₃base, wherein R ₃refer to hydrogen atom or C1-C4 alkyl, described C1-C4 alkyl is replaced by one or more hydroxyls alternatively;

.R ₂represent to there is 1 to alkyl 18 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, straight chain, or there are 3 alkyl to 18 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, side chain or loop chain, and optical isomer and corresponding salt;

Wherein, with respect to the gross weight of described compositions, described water accounts for 40% to 55% by weight, and particularly 42% to 52%, preferably 44% to 50%.

2. compositions according to claim 1, wherein, at formula I) in, R ₁be selected from :-COOH ,-COOCH ₃,-COO-CH ₂-CH ₃,-COO-CH ₂-CH(OH)-CH ₂oH ,-COOCH ₂-CH ₂-CH ₂oH and-COOCH ₂-CH(OH)-CH ₃.

3. compositions according to claim 1 and 2, wherein, at formula I) in, R ₂to there is 2 straight chains to 7 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated alkyl.

4. according to the compositions described in any one in claims 1 to 3, wherein, at formula I) in, R ₁be-COOH.

5. according to the compositions described in any one in claim 1 to 4, wherein, at formula I) in, R ₂be selected from amyl group, pentenyl, hexyl and heptyl.

6. according to the compositions described in any one in claim 1 to 5, wherein, described formula I) compound be 3-hydroxyl-2-amyl group-Pentamethylene. acetic acid or 3-hydroxyl-2-amyl group-Pentamethylene. acetic acid sodium salt.

7. according to the compositions described in any one in claim 1 to 6, wherein, described formula I) compound be added in described water, and with respect to the gross weight of described compositions, described formula I) the content range of compound be 0.001% to 10% by weight, particularly 0.1% to 8%, preferably 0.5% to 5%.

8. according to the compositions described in any one in claim 1 to 7, wherein, described coloring agent is selected from pigment, dyestuff and interference granule.

9. compositions according to claim 8, wherein, described coloring agent is selected from described pigment.

10. according to the compositions described in any one in claim 1 to 9, wherein, as the case may be, described water comprises the mixture of water and water-soluble additives and/or water-soluble solvent.

11. according to the compositions described in any one in claim 1 to 10, wherein, described water comprises some additives, and described additive is selected from polymer of water-soluble active ingredient, antiseptic, salt, gellant, filler, water solublity or water dispersible and composition thereof.

12. according to the compositions described in any one in claim 1 to 11, comprises at least one UV filtering agent, and wherein, described UV filtering agent is preferably selected from cinnamate, and ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamic acid salt preferably.

13. according to the compositions described in any one in claim 1 to 12, and described compositions is the form of foundation emulsion.

At least one coloring agent in 14. compositionss and at least one have following formula I) jasmonic derivative compound for preventing the beautifying use of non-therapeutic of skin aging:

Wherein:

Described compositions is the form of water-in-oil emulsion, and described water-in-oil emulsion is included in the fat middle water disperseing mutually,

Wherein, with respect to the gross weight of described compositions, described water accounts for 40% to 55% by weight.

The skin protection of 15. 1 kinds of non-therapeutics and/or cosmetic method, be included in and on skin, use at least one deck according to the step of the compositions described in any one in claim 1 to 13.