FR3014313A1 - COMPOSITIONS COMPRISING A HYDROPHILIC FILMOGENEOUS POLYMER AND A HIGH QUANTITY OF MONOALCOHOL - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium, containing a continuous fat phase and a discontinuous phase, said discontinuous phase comprising one or more monoalcohol (s) comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and at least one polymer hydrophilic film-maker, soluble in said mono-alcohol (s), in which the amount of mono-alcohol (s) is between 8% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, and wherein the amount of hydrophilic film-forming polymer is at least 0.1% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

Description

The present invention relates to skin care and / or make-up compositions. More particularly, the present invention relates to compositions comprising a hydrophilic film-forming polymer and a high amount of mono-alcohol. Consumers are increasingly looking for make-up or skincare cosmetic products that spread easily and quickly on the skin in the form of a deposit that should not be thick but on the contrary blend as much as possible with the support. . It is known to those skilled in the art that liquid products containing a high oil content make it possible to obtain good properties of spreading and penetration into the skin. Examples of make-up products include liquid foundations, liquid lip glosses, and in the care field moisturizing and emollient oily products or solar oils. This high oil content can, however, lead to an oily and greasy feel during application and to poor deposition of the deposit on the skin over time. It is therefore necessary to search for a technical solution which makes it possible to obtain both easy and pleasant spreading properties and holding properties over time. The object of the present invention is to satisfy these needs. The present invention therefore aims to provide a cosmetic composition with good performance over time, while maintaining satisfactory application comfort. The present invention also aims to provide a cosmetic composition that can spread quickly and easily. The present invention also aims to provide a cosmetic composition whose application properties do not have a greasy feel 35 and whose deposition has a very good performance.

Thus, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium, containing a continuous fat phase and a discontinuous hydro-alcoholic phase, said discontinuous hydro-alcoholic phase comprising one or more mono-alcohol (s) comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer, soluble in the said mono-alcohol (s), in which the amount of monoalcohol (s) is between 8% and 40% by weight per relative to the total weight of said composition, and wherein the amount of hydrophilic film-forming polymer is at least 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It has therefore been found, unexpectedly by the inventors, that the presence, in a continuous fat phase emulsion, of a dispersed hydrophilic phase containing a high level of mono-alcohol and a specific hydrophilic film-forming polymer, makes it possible to obtain products that are easy and fast to spread, whose application properties are not greasy and whose deposition has a very good performance. Fatty phase The fatty phase content of the compositions according to the invention ranges from 25% to 85%, preferably from 40% to 75% and even more preferably from 50% to 70% relative to the total weight of the composition. . The fatty phase (or oily phase) of the compositions according to the invention comprises at least one oil. It may consist of a single oil or a mixture of several oils. Oil is understood to mean any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure. These oils can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. More specifically, the fatty phase of the compositions of the invention comprises at least one oil which can be volatile or non-volatile. Volatile oils are preferred. Volatile oils According to one embodiment, the fatty phase of the compositions of the invention comprises at least one volatile oil. The fatty phase of the compositions of the invention may comprise a mixture of a plurality of volatile oils.

By "volatile oil" is meant an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10- 3 to 300 mm Hg) and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg). In addition, the volatile oil generally has a boiling point, measured at atmospheric pressure, ranging from 150 ° C to 260 ° C and preferably from 170 ° C to 250 ° C. To measure the aforementioned evaporation rate, a 7 cm diameter crystallizer, placed on a balance in a large chamber of about 0.3 m 3 temperature-controlled, is introduced at a temperature of 25.degree. in hygrometry, at a relative humidity of 50%, 15 g of oil or oil mixture to be tested. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, providing ventilation by a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 revolutions per minute) arranged in a vertical position above the crystallizer containing said oil or said mixture, the blades being directed to the crystallizer and at a distance of 20 cm from the bottom of the crystallizer. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of evaporated oil per unit area (cm2) and per unit of time (minute). The volatile oils may be hydrocarbon, silicone or fluorinated. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms. The term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom. The volatile oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms. As the hydrocarbon-based volatile oil, mention may be made of branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes, such as C 8 -C 16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isohexadecane, or linear C 9 -C 17 alkanes, such as dodecane (C12) and tetradecane (C14), respectively marketed under the references of PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97 by the company Sasol. Of the volatile hydrocarbon oils, isododecane is preferred. As the volatile silicone oil, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicone oils having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Examples that may be mentioned include decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and dodecamethylpentasiloxane. Among the volatile silicone oils, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane is preferred. According to one embodiment, the fatty phase of the compositions according to the invention comprises a mixture of volatile oils, in particular volatile hydrocarbon and silicone oils. According to a particular embodiment, the fatty phase of the compositions according to the invention comprises a volatile hydrocarbon oil and a volatile silicone oil. According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty phase of the compositions according to the invention comprises isododecane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane. Advantageously, the fatty phase comprises from 40% to 100% by weight, preferably from 60% to 98% by weight and preferably from 80% to 95% by weight of volatile oil (s) relative to the weight. total fat phase. Non-volatile oils According to one embodiment, the oily phase of the compositions of the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil. The oily phase of the compositions of the invention may comprise a mixture of several non-volatile oils. "Non-volatile oil" means an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly below 0.01 mg / cm 2 / min. The non-volatile oils may, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated oils and / or non-volatile silicone oils. Among the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of natural or naturally occurring oils such as paraffin oils or petroleum jelly oil, vegetable oils, such as sweet almond oil, jojoba oil and macadamia oil, synthetic oils such as synthetic esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate or isononyl isononanoate or synthetic ethers such as dicaprylic ether may also be mentioned. Among the nonvolatile silicone oils, mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxanes, phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicone or alkyldimethicones such as cetyl dimethicone. Among the non-volatile fluorinated oils, mention may be made of fluorinated silicones and perfluoropolyethers. According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise phenyltrimethicone.

Advantageously, the fatty phase comprises from 0 to 60% by weight, preferably from 1% to 40% by weight and preferably from 2% to 20% by weight of non-volatile oil (s) relative to the total weight of the fatty phase. Hydro-alcoholic phase The composition according to the invention comprises a dispersed phase (discontinuous phase), which may be designated hydro-alcoholic or alcoholic phase, comprising at least one mono-alcohol as defined above. The alcoholic phase may also comprise water (hydroalcoholic phase). A water that is suitable for the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water. According to one embodiment, the amount of water in the compositions of the invention is less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 20% by weight and more preferably less than 10% by weight and even more preferably less than 5% by weight. % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is anhydrous or comprises less than 5% by weight of water, more preferably less than 2% by weight of water, even more preferably less than 1% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition.

When the hydro-alcoholic phase of the compositions of the invention does not comprise water, this will be referred to as the "alcoholic phase". In addition to the lower mono-alcohol (s) defined previously, this alcoholic or hydro-alcoholic phase may contain other alcohol (s), in particular polyethylenes glycols having from 6 to 80 units. ethylene oxide; polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerine, sorbitol, glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycol ethers such as alkyls (C1-C4) mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol ether, mono-, di- or tri-ethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. The alcoholic or hydroalcoholic phase may furthermore comprise stabilizing agents, for example sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride and magnesium sulphate. The alcoholic or hydroalcoholic phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound compatible with an aqueous phase such as gelling agents, thickeners, surfactants and mixtures thereof. Mono-alcohol The compositions of the invention comprise at least one monoalcohol comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, especially from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and in particular from 2 to 4 carbon atoms. The compositions of the invention may comprise one or more mono-alcohol (s). This monoalcohol can be represented for example by the formula RaOH, in which Ra represents a linear or branched alkyl group comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. As monoalcohol, mention may be made of ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol. According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise ethanol. The amount of mono-alcohol (s) is at least 8% by weight, and preferably at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. According to an advantageous embodiment, the amount of monoalcohol (s) ranges from 10% to 40% by weight, preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, and still more preferably from 10% to 15% by weight. , relative to the total weight of said composition. The amounts by weight of mono-alcohol (s) correspond either to the amount by weight of the mono-alcohol if the composition comprises only one mono-alcohol or to the total amount by weight of all the mono-alcohols if the composition comprises a mixture of several mono-alcohols. According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise from 11% to 15%, preferably from 11.4% to 15%, by weight of mono-alcohol (s), preferably ethanol, relative to to the total weight of said composition.

Hydrophilic Film-forming Polymer By "polymer" is meant here a compound having one or more repeating units and preferably at least 2 repeating units. The term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a film which is macroscopically continuous and adheres to the keratin materials, and preferably a cohesive film, and better still a film of which the cohesion and the mechanical properties are such that said film can be isolable and manipulable in isolation, for example when said film is produced by casting on an anti-adherent surface such as a Teflon or silicone surface. The film-forming polymers of the invention are soluble in the linear or branched monoalcohols of the invention which contain from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. The term "soluble" means the possibility of dissolving the polymer in at least one linear or branched monoalcohol of the invention at ambient temperature and at a mass percentage generally of less than or equal to 80%. According to one embodiment, the hydrophilic film-forming polymer according to the invention is chosen from the group consisting of vinyl polymers, polyacrylates, polyurethanes and their mixtures. In particular, among the vinyl polymers, there may be mentioned polyvinylacetates, polyvinyl pyrrolidones, polyvinyl caprolactams, and their copolymers such as polyvinypyrrolidone / vinyl acetates, and mixtures thereof. Examples of polyvinyl pyrrolidone include those sold under the trade names Luvitec K grades and Luviskol K grades by BASF.

Examples of polyvinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate include those sold under the trade name Luviskol VA grades by the company BAS F. As an example of polyvinyl caprolactam, mention may be made of the product sold under the trade name Luviskol Plus by the company BASF .

According to one embodiment, the hydrophilic film-forming polymer is selected from the group consisting of tert-butyl acrylate / ethylacrylate / methacrylic acid terpolymer, homopolymers and copolymers of 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof. In particular, mention may be made of the terpolymer of tert.-butyl acrylate / ethylacrylate / methacrylic acid sold under the trade name of Luvimer 100P and 30 E by the company BAS F.

According to one embodiment, the hydrophilic film-forming polymer is chosen from homopolymers and copolymers of 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate (HEMA) such as those described in application FR 2 887 765. The polymer or copolymer of HEMA present in the compositions according to of the present invention generally has a glass transition temperature Tg greater than or equal to 25 ° C, more preferably greater than or equal to 35 ° C, and more preferably greater than or equal to 55 ° C. The term "glass transition temperature" means the temperature at which a polymer passes from a rigid state to a flexible state. The polymers or copolymers of HEMA are insoluble in water. They can be in the form of powders. They can also be crosslinked. In the context of the present invention, when the polymers are non-crosslinked, they may have a weight average molecular weight of between 5,000 and 1,000,000 g / mol. HEMA polymers or copolymers which may more particularly be used in the context of the present invention may especially be those prepared according to the preparation methods described in US 6,706,836, US 6,653,427 and US 6,743,880. and US 2004-0266965. According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophilic film-forming polymer 20 according to the invention is a polyvinyl pyrrolidone. According to the invention, the hydrophilic film-forming polymer or polymers are conveyed in the discontinuous phase containing a high level of alcohol, as defined above. The hydrophilic film-forming polymer is present in the composition in a content of at least 0.1% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. According to one embodiment, the content of hydrophilic film-forming polymer ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one embodiment, the hydrophilic film-forming polymer content ranges from 0.5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and still more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition, these ranges corresponding to the percentages of pure polymer. Physiologically acceptable medium In addition to the compounds indicated above, a composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.

By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium that is particularly suitable for applying a composition of the invention to the skin or the lips. The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O) or an oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion (W / O / H). According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are water-in-oil emulsions. Lipophilic structuring agent A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one structuring agent of liquid fatty phase chosen from a wax, a pasty compound, and mixtures thereof. In particular, a wax that is suitable for the invention may especially be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral, and synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. By way of examples of waxes which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of: waxes of animal origin, such as beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, and waxes vegetable oils such as Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricury wax, Japan wax, cocoa butter or cork fiber waxes or sugar cane wax, mineral waxes, for example paraffin wax, petroleum jelly wax, lignite or microcrystalline waxes or ozokerites; synthetic waxes including polyethylene waxes; and waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis; silicone waxes, especially substituted linear polysiloxanes; mention may be made, for example, of polyether silicone waxes, alkyl or alkoxydimethicones having from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, alkyl methicones such as C30-O45 alkylmethicone sold under the trade name "AMS C 30" by Dow Corning, hydrogenated oils that are solid at 25 ° C., such as hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tallow, hydrogenated coconut oil and solid fatty esters at 25 ° C. C as the C20-040 alkyl stearate sold under the trade name "Kester KSH K82H" by Koster Keunen, and / or mixtures thereof. Preferably, use will be made of polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, carnauba waxes, hydrogenated jojoba oil, candellila waxes, beeswaxes and / or mixtures thereof. A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one pasty compound. The presence of a pasty compound may advantageously confer improved comfort during the deposition of a composition of the invention on keratinous fibers. Such a compound may be advantageously chosen from lanolin and its derivatives; polymeric silicone compounds or not; polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds; vinyl polymers, especially homopolymers of olefins; olefin copolymers; homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes; linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C 8 -C 30 alkyl group; homo and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl esters having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups; homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups; liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C 2 -C 10 diols, in particular C 2 -C 50; Acid or fatty alcohol esters; and their mixtures. Among the esters, there may be mentioned: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular diglycerol esters, such as polyglyceryl-2-triisostearate, adipic acid and glycerol condensates, for which part of the hydroxyl groups glycerols reacted with a mixture of fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, in the image, in particular, of those marketed under the brand Softisan 649 by the company Sasol or such as polyacyladipate-2 bis diglyceryl; arachidyl propionate sold under the name Waxenol 801 by Alzo; phytosterol esters; triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, such as hydrogenated coco-glycerides; non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 -C 50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a 02-050 diol or polyol; aliphatic ester esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid; polyesters resulting from the esterification, by a polycarboxylic acid, of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester, said ester comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, such as Risocast DA-H® products, and Risocast DA-L®; and their mixtures. The structuring agent (s) may be present in a composition of the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight of agents, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight, relative to total weight of the composition. Thickeners According to the fluidity of the composition which it is desired to obtain, it is possible to incorporate into a composition of the invention, advantageously, one or more thickening or gelling agents. A thickening or gelling agent suitable for the invention may be hydrophilic, that is to say soluble or dispersible in water. As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may in particular be made of water-soluble or water-dispersible thickening polymers. These may especially be chosen from: modified or unmodified carboxyvinyl polymers, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) by the company Goodrich; polyacrylates and polymethacrylates such as the products sold under the names Lubrajel and Norgel by the company GUARDIAN or under the name Hispagel by the company HISPANO CHIMICA; polyacrylamides; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) sold by Clariant under the name "Hostacerin AMPS" (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide); crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, in the form of an W / O emulsion, such as those sold under the name SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name SIMULGEL 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, locust bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, chitin and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, gellanes, alginates, celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellullose and hydroxypropylcellulose; and their mixtures. A thickening or gelling agent that is suitable for the invention may be lipophilic. It can be mineral or organic.

Examples of lipophilic thickening agents that may be mentioned are modified clays, such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone gel VS38 from Rheox), modified hectorites such as hectorite modified with a C10 fatty acid ammonium chloride, C22, such as the hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, that marketed under the name Bentone 38V® by the company ELEMENTIS or that marketed under the name "Bentone 38 CE" by the company RHEOX or that marketed under the name Bentone Gel V5 5V by the company ELEMENTIS. Polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, such as those marketed under the names KSG6®, KSG16® and KSG18® by the company SHIN-ETSU, by Trefil E-505C®. and Trefil E-506C® by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC®, SR DMF10®, SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC gel®, SR DMF 10 gel® and SR DC 556 gel® by the company 20 GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF 1204® and JK 113® by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC; polycondensates of polyamide type resulting from the condensation between a dicarboxylic acid comprising at least 32 carbon atoms and an alkylene diamine and in particular ethylene diamine, in which the polymer comprises at least one terminal carboxylic acid group esterified or amidated with 25 to minus one monoalcohol or mono-amine comprising from 12 to 30 linear and saturated carbon atoms, and in particular ethylene diamine / stearyl dilinoleate copolymers, such as that sold under the name Uniclear 100 VG® by the company ARIZONA CHEMICAL; galactomanes having from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per os, substituted with a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated with C1-C6 alkyl chains, and in particular with C1 to C3 and mixtures thereof. The "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type block copolymers of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) type ) such as those marketed under the name Kraton® by Shell Chemical Co. or alternatively from the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those marketed by the company PENRECO under the name Versagel® such as, for example, the mixture of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and ethylene / propylene / styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960). Among the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in a cosmetic composition of the invention, mention may also be made of dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® by the company CHIBA FLOUR, hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as hydrogenated castor oil, fatty alcohols, in particular from C8 to O26, and more particularly from 012 to 022, such as, for example, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or behenyl alcohol. According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise thickening agents with an active material content of from 0.01% to 40% by weight, especially from 0.1% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0% to 20% by weight. , 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one lipophilic thickening agent, in particular at least one modified hectorite, such as a hectorite modified with a 0-10 to 022 fatty acid ammonium chloride, advantageously in a certain amount. ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 2% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of said composition. The composition may further comprise at least one pulverulent material, especially chosen from pulverulent dyestuffs and fillers. According to one particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least pigments and at least one filler. The content of pulverulent material (s) will generally be from 5% to 30% by weight, especially from 10% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

Dyestuffs A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one dyestuff, in particular a pulverulent dyestuff. The dyestuff (s) may be present in a content ranging from 2% to 25% by weight, in particular from 5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 8% to 15% by weight. relative to the total weight of said composition.

A cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention may advantageously incorporate at least one dyestuff chosen from organic or inorganic dyestuffs, in particular of the type of pigment or nacre conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, fat-soluble or water-soluble dyes, specific optical effect and their mixtures. The term "pigments" is intended to mean white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting film. The pigments may be present in an amount of from 0.1% to 40% by weight, in particular from 1% to 30% by weight, and in particular from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the product. cosmetic composition. As inorganic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as oxides of zinc, iron or chromium, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate. Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least titanium oxides and iron oxides. It may also be a pigment having a structure which may for example be sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica. Such a pigment is marketed for example under the reference COVERLEAF NS or JS by CHEMICALS AND CATALYSTS and has a contrast ratio of about 30. The dyestuff may also comprise a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, microsphere type of silica containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is that marketed by MIYOSHI under the reference PC BALL PC-LL-100P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide. The term "nacres" is intended to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or otherwise, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or well synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.

Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of mother-of-pearl TIMICA, FLAMENCO and DUOCHROME (based on mica) marketed by ENGELHARD, TIMIRON pearls marketed by MERCK, mother-of-pearl containing PRESTIGE mica marketed by the company. ECKART and nacres based on SUNSHINE synthetic mica sold by the company SUN CHEMICAL. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection. As an illustration of the pearlescent agents that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made, in particular, of gold-colored pearlescent agents, sold in particular by ENGELHARD, under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres, in particular, sold by the company Merck under the names Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents, in particular, marketed by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen, in particular, marketed by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the red-colored pearlescent agents, in particular, marketed by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents, in particular, marketed by Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); nacres of red hue with gold glare, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); black nacres with gold reflection, sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue pearls, in particular, sold by MERCK under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), white nacres with silvery reflection, in particular, sold by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by MERCK under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes. Liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, (3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice and caramel.The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect.This effect is different from a simple conventional hue effect, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional dyestuffs, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments.In the meaning of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of effect For example, this material may be selected from metal-reflecting particles, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, the agents of the invention. thermochrom es, optical brighteners, as well as fibers, in particular, interferences. Of course, these different materials can be combined to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect according to the invention. The particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are chosen in particular from: - particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, - particles comprising an organic or inorganic substrate, monomaterial or multimaterial at least partially covered by at least one metal-reflecting layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and the mixtures of said particles. Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te. Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (e.g., bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

The term "metal derivatives" denotes compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulphides. As an illustration of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those sold under the names STARBRITE 1200 EAC® by SIBERLINE and METALURE® by ECKART. Mention may also be made of copper metal powders or mixtures of alloys, such as the references 2844 sold by the company Radium Bronze, metallic pigments, such as aluminum or bronze, such as those sold under the trade names ROTOSAFE 700 ECKART company, the silica-coated aluminum particles marketed under the name VISIONAIRE BRIGHT SILVER by ECKART and the metal alloy particles, such as bronze powder (copper and zinc alloy) coated with silica marketed under the name of Visionaire Bright Natural Gold from Eckart. It may also be particles comprising a glass substrate such as those sold by the company NIPPON SHEET GLASS under the names MICROGLASS METASHINE. The goniochromatic coloring agent may be selected from, for example, interfering multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents. Examples of symmetrical interferential multilayer structures that can be used in compositions produced according to the invention are, for example, the following structures: Al / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Al, pigments having this structure being marketed by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS; Cr / MgF 2 / Al / MgF 2 / Cr, pigments having this structure being marketed under the name CHROMAFLAIR by the company FLEX; MoS2 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3, and Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3, pigments having these structures being sold under the name SICOPEARL by the company BAS F; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / mica-oxide / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3; TiO2 / SiO2F11O2 and TiO2 / Al2O3F11O2; SnO / TiO 2 / SiO 2 / TiO 2 / SnO; Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3; SnO / mica / TiO 2 / SiO 2 / TiO 2 / mica / SnO, pigments having these structures being sold under the name XIRONA by the company Merck (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments may be the pigments of silica / titania / tin oxide structure marketed under the trademark Xirona Magic by the company Merck, the silica / brown iron oxide structural pigments marketed under the name XIRONA INDIAN SUMMER by the company MERCK and the silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide structural pigments marketed under the name XIRONA CARRIBEAN BLUE by the company MERCK. Mention may also be made of the INFINITE COLORS pigments from SHISEIDO. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 structure, gold-green to gray-red is passed for SiO 2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for layers of SiO2 from 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO2 layers from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO2 layers from 430 to 440 nm. Mention may be made, by way of example of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure, those marketed by the company 3M under the name COLOR GLITTER. As liquid crystal goniochromatic particles, it is possible to use, for example, those sold by CHENIX, as well as those sold under the name HELICONE® HC by WACKER.

Fillers A composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one filler, of organic or mineral nature, which makes it possible, in particular, to impart to it additional properties of dullness, coverage, strength and / or improved stability. The filler content may range from 2% to 20% by weight, especially from 4% to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. By "charge" is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, they make it possible to impart body or stiffness to the composition and / or softness, and uniformity to makeup. The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber or any other intermediate form between these defined forms. The fillers according to the invention may or may not be superficially coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance which promotes dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the process. composition.

Examples of mineral fillers that may be mentioned include talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass microcapsules or ceramic, composites of silica and titanium dioxide, such as the TSG series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass. Examples of organic fillers that may be mentioned are polyamide powders (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), polyethylene, poly methyl methacrylate, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon) powders, copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrap from the company). Dow Corning), lauroyl lysine, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel (Nobel Industry), hexamethylene diisocyanate / Trimethylol hexyllactone copolymer powder (Toshiki Plastic Powder), microbeads silicone resin (Toshiba Tospearl, for example) synthetic or natural micronized waxes, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), powder cross-linked elastomeric organopolysiloxane coated with silicone resin, especially silsesquioxane resin, as described for example in US Pat. No. 5,538,793, polyurethane powders, in particular cross-linked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyllactone. In particular, it may be a hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone polymer. Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example, under the name PLASTIC POWDER D400® or PLASTIC POWDER D-800® from TOSHIKI, and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder coated with silicone resin. The presence of this filler also makes it possible to thicken and / or gel the composition of the invention. The crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powder or powders coated with silicone resin may be present in a content ranging from 2% to 12% by weight, advantageously from 4% to 10% by weight, and preferably from 7% to 9% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Mention may in particular be made of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular with silsesquioxane resin, as described, for example, in US Pat. No. 5,538,793. Such elastomer powders are sold under the names KSP-100®. KSP-101®, KSP-102®, KSP-103®, KSP-104® and KSP-105® by SHIN ETSU; mention may also be made of crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin such as hybrid silicone powders functionalized with fluoroalkyl groups, especially sold under the name "KSP-200" by the company Shin Etsu; or hybrid silicone powders functionalized with phenyl groups, especially sold under the name "KSP-300" by the company Shin Etsu. Additives io A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field concerned, for example chosen from gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, gums, resins, dispersing agents, semi-crystalline polymers, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, antiseptics, UV protective agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins , moisturizing agents, emollients or collagen protectors, and mixtures thereof. It is a matter of routine practice for those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions according to the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties and stability properties of those they are not affected. A cosmetic composition of the invention may be in the form of an anhydrous liquid product, an anhydrous gel, in the form of a stick or stick or in the form of a soft paste. In particular, a cosmetic composition of the invention may be in the form of a liquid or fluid foundation, a hot-melt foundation product, a body make-up product, a concealer or a make-up mask. eyelids, a makeup base. A care composition according to the invention can be in particular a solar composition, a care cream, a serum or a deodorant. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a fluid foundation.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method comprising applying to the skin a composition as defined above. The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method of makeup and / or care of the skin comprising a step of applying to the skin at least one layer of a composition as defined above. The present invention also relates to a process for making up the skin in which a composition as defined above is applied. Device The invention also relates to a device for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition as defined above, comprising: a container containing said cosmetic composition; and means for a drip distribution of said composition. According to one embodiment, the present invention relates to a device for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition as defined above, comprising: a container containing said cosmetic composition, the container being a flexible wall tube, and a dispensing head comprising a dispensing orifice, the device being characterized in that the area of smaller cross section through which the composition passes between the container and the dispensing orifice is between 0.2 mm 2 and 3 mm 2, preferably 0.5 mm2 and 2 mm2, more preferably from 0.8 mm2 to 1.7 mm2 and more preferably from 1 mm2 to 1.2 mm2. According to a particular embodiment, this device comprises at least one restriction of the passage of the composition between the container and the dispensing orifice, said restriction having a section whose area is smaller than the area of the section of the orifice of distribution. Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the following steps: the flexible wall tube of the packaging and application device as defined above is pressed for a controlled drip outlet of the cosmetic composition according to the invention, then - the cosmetic composition is stretched on the finger, in particular on the skin of the face, and smoothed until homogenization. According to another embodiment, the present invention relates to a device for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition as defined above, comprising: a container, in particular made of glass, a cosmetic composition according to the invention contained in the container, - a closure element, - a pipette, in particular glass, attached to the closure element, and - a compressible chamber connected to the pipette. Other devices allowing a drip application are also described in International Applications W001 / 47784 and WO2011 / 154397. Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the following steps: the container of the device is agitated and a pressure is applied on the compressible chamber to suck up the liquid composition in the pipette, - the pipette is removed from the container and another pressure is applied on the compressible chamber to apply the composition in a controlled manner, for example on the palm of the hand, and - the cosmetic composition is stretched on the finger, in particular on the skin of the face, and smoothed until homogenization. Throughout the application, the wording "comprising a" or "comprising a" means "comprising at least one" or "comprising at least" one unless the contrary is specified. Throughout the above description, unless otherwise stated, the term "inclusive (e) between x and y" corresponds to an inclusive range, i.e. the x and y values are included in the range.

The invention will be illustrated in the following nonlimiting examples. Unless otherwise stated, the% are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions are prepared according to the usual methods for formulating cosmetic compositions.

EXAMPLE A composition according to the invention (foundation) is prepared as described below and comprises the following ingredients: 0/0 by weight Al Isododecane 11.00 Disteardimonium hectorite / propylene carbonate / isododecane (10/3/87) sold under the reference BENTONE GEL ISD V by Elementis 10.00 Phenyltrimethicone sold under the reference DC 556 by the company Dow 2.00 Corning Ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate 3.00 A2 Cyclohexasiloxane 4.00 Dimethicone copolyol sold under the reference KF 6017 by the company 1 , 50 Shin Etsu Yellow iron oxide coated with stearoyl aluminum glutamate 2.98 Red iron oxide coated with stearoyl aluminum glutamate 0.94 Black iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 0.32 Coated titanium dioxide of stearoyl aluminum glutamate 6.76 A3 Dodecamethylpentasiloxane 20.75 Cyclohexasiloxane 16.75 Vinyl dimethicone / Methylone Silsesquioxane crosspolymer sold under 8.00 the reference KSP 100 by the company Shin Etsu B Denatured 96 ° ethanol 11.45 Polyvinyl pyrrolidone sold under the reference Luviskol K 30 powder by the company BASF 0.50 C Perfume 0.05 TOTAL 100% Procedure The constituents of the Al phase are weighed in the main beaker and stirring while maintaining at room temperature with Moritz (500 rpm) for 15 minutes until homogenization. Phase A2 is prepared separately by grinding three times with the three-cylinder, the mixture of pigments, dimethicone copolyol and cyclohexasiloxane. This A2 phase is then added by stirring with Moritz (500 to 700 rpm) for 10 minutes at room temperature. Phase A3 is prepared separately by dispersing the KSP 100 in the mixture of the two oils with stirring at room temperature Moritz (1000-1200 rpm) for 10 minutes until homogenization.

This phase A3 is then added slowly with stirring at room temperature with Moritz (1000-1200 rpm) for 10 minutes. Phase B is prepared separately by dissolving, at room temperature, the polyvinylpyrrolidone in ethanol, with stirring at the magnetic bar.

Finally, phases B and C are added by increasing the Moritz stirring at 2000 rpm. After incorporation, stirring is continued for a further 5 minutes at room temperature and then packaged rapidly.

Claims (17)

REVENDICATIONS1. A cosmetic composition, comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium, containing a continuous fat phase and a discontinuous phase, said discontinuous phase comprising one or more monoalcohol (s) comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms and at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer, soluble in the said mono-alcohol (s), in which the amount of monoalcohol (s) is between 8% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition, and in which the amount of hydrophilic film-forming polymer is at least 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the amount of monoalcohol (s) is at least 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the hydrophilic film-forming polymer is selected from the group consisting of vinyl polymers, polyacrylates, polyurethanes and mixtures thereof. 4. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the hydrophilic film-forming polymer is selected from the group consisting of polyvinylacetates, polyvinyl pyrrolidones, polyvinyl caprolactams, copolymers thereof such as polyvinypyrrolidone / vinyl acetates, and mixtures thereof. 5. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the hydrophilic film-forming polymer is selected from the group consisting of tert-butyl acrylate / ethylacrylate / methacrylic acid terpolymer, methacrylate homopolymers and copolymers of 2- hydroxyethyl, and mixtures thereof. 6. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the content of hydrophilic film-forming polymer ranges from 0.5% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 7. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the fatty phase comprises at least one volatile oil and / or at least one non-volatile oil. 8. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the fatty phase comprises from 40% to 100% by weight of volatile oil (s) relative to the total weight of the fatty phase, and less than 60% by weight of non-volatile oil (s) relative to the total weight of the fatty phase. 9. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the fatty phase is from 25% to 85%, by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. 10. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion or an oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion. 11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the mono-alcohol is ethanol. 12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, further comprising a pulverulent material, in particular selected from pulverulent dyestuffs and fillers. 13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11, comprising a thickening or gelling agent and / or a lipophilic structuring agent. 14. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, comprising less than 30% by weight of water relative to the total weight of said composition. 15. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13, in the form of a fluid foundation. 16. Non-therapeutic method of makeup and / or care of the skin comprising a step of applying to the skin at least one layer of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14. 17. Apparatus for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, comprising a container containing said cosmetic composition, and means for a drip distribution of said composition.