FR2924929A1 - Cosmetic composition, useful for the make-up and/or care of lips, comprises a fatty phase, perlite particle, solid fatty substance, wax, pasty fatty substances and volatile oil or totally free of volatile oil, and dye - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition for make-up and/or care of lips, comprises at least a fatty phase and at least perlite particle (0.05 wt.%).

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition dedicated to the care and / or makeup of the lips, capable of providing a so-called satin-like effect that is to say of reduced gloss compared to conventional formulations. In general, lipsticks are brilliant, this property being particularly sought after by users in terms of aesthetic effect. This effect is often obtained via the implementation in lipstick formulations of so-called brilliant oils. However, in certain circumstances, it is however sought a more discreet makeup, and therefore significantly less gloss. Conventionally, makeup lipsticks no longer brilliant but that can be described as satin, incorporate for these purposes, a greater amount of porous fillers. By partially absorbing the oils, the fillers reduce the reflectance of the composition. Moreover, these fillers are generally used in lipstick formulations to contribute to their structuring.

However, the presence of these fillers, especially in larger amounts, may, in certain circumstances, generate undesirable side effects at the same time. Thus, their presence can be detrimental to the application, that is to say during the spread of the composition on the surface of the lips. Indeed, its sliding properties can be affected. This side effect can be particularly troublesome in solid lipsticks in the image of sticks already having a high solids content, mainly represented by waxes and pigments. Moreover, these conventional fillers often have the defect of drying the lips. It is felt for the user feelings of tightness, particularly uncomfortable.

Finally, certain charges can affect the structuring of the waxes with which they are associated. It follows therefore an alteration of the qualities of lipstick. As a result, there remains a need for cosmetic compositions dedicated to lip makeups, capable of providing a satin makeup effect and remaining endowed with satisfactory properties in terms of comfort, sliding properties and stability. The present invention aims precisely to meet this need.

More particularly, the present invention results from the unexpected observation by the inventors that the selection of a specific load makes it possible to meet all of the aforementioned requirements. Thus, according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for care and / or makeup of the lips comprising a fatty phase and at least 0.05% by weight of perlite particles relative to the total weight of the composition. Perlite is a natural glass of volcanic origin, light gray or black in color, resulting from the rapid cooling of the lava and which is in the form of small particles resembling pearl. When heated above 800 ° C, it has the particularity of losing the water it contains and take a porous expanded form (representing four to twenty times its initial volume), allowing it to absorb large amounts of oil. It then takes on a white color. In addition to its conventional use in building materials, resulting from its low weight and good insulating properties, it has already been suggested to use perlite in the cosmetics field. Thus, its oil absorption properties have been used in powders to make granules for exfoliation of the skin (WO 99/31184 and WO 01/64168) or toothpastes (WO 96/09033 ), the perlite being in this case coagglomerate with another inorganic material. In the same vein, the application WO 97/30126 discloses an exfoliating composition comprising inorganic particles, in particular perlite particles, which preferably have a size greater than 45 m and which, applied to the skin by massage, rupture. in particles smaller than 45 m. In these documents of the prior art, the perlite used generally has a particle size sufficiently large to give it abrasive properties, and thus exfoliating. In addition, the exfoliating compositions of the prior art are necessarily compositions intended to be rinsed. They do not leave any particles of perlite on the skin. It has also been proposed in application US 2003/232062 to use perlite particles of about 0.3 mm to fight against cutaneous photoaging by stimulating cell renewal.

Finally, the application FR 2 881 643 proposes to use in compositions, dedicated to an application on the skin, particles of perlite as a sebum-regulating agent. Against all expectations and as is apparent from the examples presented below, the inventors have found that the introduction of perlite particles in a lipstick formula, ensures a certain matt or satin effect and softness (velvety) to application, without otherwise affecting the comfort qualities of the formula over time, as well as the mechanical properties of the stick or cast when it is a formula of solid lipstick that is to say say structured at least in part by waxes.

According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a process for makeup and / or cosmetic care of the lips comprising applying to said lips at least one composition as defined above. According to yet another of its aspects, the present invention relates to the use of perlite particles as a matting agent in cosmetic products dedicated to the makeup of keratin materials, in particular the skin and more particularly the lips. A composition according to the invention can be solid or fluid. According to an alternative embodiment, the cosmetic compositions considered according to the invention also contain at least one coloring agent. As specified below, this definition covers any organic or inorganic material capable of providing a colored and / or optical effect. According to another variant embodiment, the compositions according to the invention may advantageously comprise at least 30% by weight of a fatty phase. According to yet another alternative embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise a fatty phase containing at least 5%, in particular at least 7% and in particular at least 10% by weight of solid fatty substance (s) relative to the total weight. of the fatty phase. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is solid. The term solid characterizes the state of the composition at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

Preferably, the composition according to the invention has, when it is solid, a hardness of between 30 and 300 g, or even 50 to 200 g. It can be measured according to the following method known as the wire to cut the butter. A sample of the composition under consideration is hot-cast in a stick mold 12.7 mm in diameter. The mold is then cooled in the freezer for about an hour. The lipstick stick is then stored at 20 ° C. The hardness of the samples is measured after 24 hours of waiting. The hardness of the samples of compositions of the invention, expressed in grams, is measured by means of a DFGS2 dynamometer marketed by INDELCO-CHATILLON. The hardness corresponds to the maximum shear force exerted by a rigid wire 250 m diameter in tungsten advancing at a speed of 100 mm / min. In the case where the composition according to the invention is fluid, it may be in the form of a gloss, for example. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 10%, or better still less than 4% water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or even is completely anhydrous.

Perlite Preferably, the perlite particles according to the invention have a particle size distribution such that at least 50% of the particles are less than 20 m in size. In addition, they preferentially have a particle size distribution such that 90% by weight of the particles have a size of less than 55 m and preferably less than 40 m. It is further preferred that 90% by weight of the particles have a size greater than 5 m. According to an advantageous embodiment, the perlite particles used according to the invention have a small particle size. Thus, the perlite particles may have a particle size distribution such that at least 50% of the particles are less than 25 m in size. The inventors have indeed found that for this particular particle size, and especially ranging from 10 to 20 m, or even close to 15 m, perlite has optical properties to obtain immediate effects as it confers to the deposition of makeup that it forms a soft and silky touch and a matte and velvety finish. The amount of perlite particles used according to the invention may advantageously represent from 0.1 to 5% and in particular at least 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the composition. The perlite particles that can be used according to the invention are in particular commercially available from WORLD MINERALS EUROPE under the trade name Perlite P1430, Perlite P2550 or Perlite P2040. These particles are sold as mattifying agents for paints. They are in the form of a white powder having a crystalline silica content of less than 0.1% by weight. A composition of the invention must be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, namely to contain a physiologically acceptable medium which is non-toxic and may be applied to the lips of human beings. By cosmetically acceptable is meant in the sense of the invention a composition of appearance, smell and pleasant touch.

Crude phase The composition comprises at least one fatty phase, in particular at least 30% by weight, in particular at least 40% by weight, in particular at least 50% by weight, or even at least 60% by weight per weight. relative to the total weight of the composition. This phase may contain at least one solid fatty substance chosen from waxes and pasty compounds and / or a liquid fatty substance. The composition according to the invention may thus be in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil or oil-in-water dispersion. It can be solid, liquid or pasty. The fatty phase generally comprises at least one oil and / or at least one wax. By oil is meant a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 105 Pa). The oil can be volatile or non-volatile.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or keratin fiber in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). ). By non-volatile oil is meant an oil remaining on the skin or the keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). The oil may be chosen from all physiologically acceptable and in particular cosmetically acceptable oils, in particular mineral, animal, vegetable, and synthetic oils; in particular volatile and / or nonvolatile hydrocarbon and / or silicone and / or fluorinated oils and mixtures thereof. More specifically, hydrocarbon oil is understood to mean an oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions. Generally, the oil has a viscosity of 0.5 to 100,000 mPa.s, preferably 50 to 50,000 mPa.s and more preferably 100 to 300,000 mPa.s.

By way of example of volatile oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of: volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes, such as isoalkanes C 8 -C 16 of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the names Isopar or permetyl derivatives, C 8 -C 16 branched esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell or by Shell, may also be used; volatile silicones, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8 10-6 m 2 / s), and in particular having 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethylisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane - and mixtures thereof.

It is also possible to mention volatile alkyltrisiloxane linear oils of general formula (I): ## STR1 ## where R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and from which one or more hydrogen atoms may be substituted with a fluorine or chlorine atom.

Among the oils of general formula (I), mention may be made of: 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, 3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5 , 5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and 3-ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, corresponding to the oils of formula (I) for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group.

As an example of a non-volatile oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; Vegetable hydrocarbon-based oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids with 4 to 24 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or oils, wheat germ oils, olive oil, sweet almond, palm, colza, cotton, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, black currant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose, sunflower, maize, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, castor oil, avocado, caprylic acid triglycerides / capric such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam or squalane; synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; synthetic esters, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formula RICOOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing 1 at 40 carbon atoms with R1 + R2 such as for example purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, alcohol benzoate in Cil C15, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, octyl 2-dodecyl stearate, octyl 2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, tridecyl trimellitate; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxy stearate, octyl dodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate; branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol and 2-undecyl; pentadecanol, oleic alcohol; higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; - carbonates; - acetates; - citrates; fluorinated oils that may be partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers or fluorinated silicones, as described in document EP-A-847752; silicone oils, such as non-volatile, linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof. A composition according to the invention may comprise a content of volatile or nonvolatile oils, ranging from 5 to 80% by weight, in particular relative to the total weight of the composition, for example from 5 to 70% by weight, preferably from 10 to 60% and even more preferably 20 to 60% by weight. A composition of the invention may comprise less than 2% or even less than 1% of volatile oil or is completely free of volatile oil. As stated above, the fatty phase may contain one or more solid fatty substances, in particular at a content of at least 10% by weight, in particular at least 15% by weight relative to its total weight. These solid fatty substances may be chosen from waxes, compound compounds and mixtures thereof.

Wax (s) A composition of the invention may comprise at least one wax. The wax is generally a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. and up to 200 ° C and especially up to 120 ° C. In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45 ° C, and in particular greater than or equal to 55 ° C. Within the meaning of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the ISO 11357-3 standard; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments. The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid, at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

Illustrative waxes suitable for the invention include hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect wax, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and their esters. There may also be mentioned waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these, there may be mentioned isomerized jojoba oil such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by DESERT WHALE under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50, hydrogenated sunflower oil , hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S by the company HETERENE. Mention may also be made of silicone waxes (C30-45 ALKYL DIMETHICONE) and fluorinated waxes.

It is also possible to use the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol sold under the names Phytowax Ricin 16L64 and 22L73 by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in the application FR-A-2792190. As wax, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can be used, alone or as a mixture . Such a wax is in particular sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P and Kester Wax K 80 P by the company Koster Keunen. As microwaxes that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of carnauba micro-waxes such as that sold under the name MicroCare 350 by the company Micro Powders, synthetic wax waxes such as that marketed under the name named MicroEase 114S by the company MICRO POWDERS, micro waxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax such as those sold under the names Micro Care 300 and 310 by the company MICRO POWDERS, micro waxes constituted a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325 by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene micro-waxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200, 220, 220L and 250S by the company MICRO POWDERS and the micro-waxes of polytetrafluoroethylene tell Those sold under the names Microslip 519 and 519 L by MICRO POWDERS. The composition according to the invention may comprise a wax content ranging from 0.5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular it may contain from 1 to 20% by weight, more particularly from 5 to 15% by weight. %.

Paste Compounds The composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the waxes, another solid fatty substance such as at least one pasty compound. For the purposes of the present invention, pasty means a lipophilic fatty compound having a reversible solid / liquid state change, having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization and comprising at a temperature of 23 ° C. a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The pasty compound is preferably chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin. The pasty compound may advantageously be chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives, polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, fluorinated polymeric or non-polymeric compounds, vinyl polymers, in particular: homopolymers of olefins, copolymers of olefins, homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes, linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C 6 -C 30 alkyl group, homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having C 6 -C 30 alkyl groups; and homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups; the fat-soluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C 2 -C 10 diols, preferably C2-050, esters, and mixtures thereof. Among the esters, the following are particularly preferred: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the diglycerol esters, in particular the adipic acid and glycerol condensates, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, especially in the image of those marketed under the trademark Softisan 649 by the company Sasol, - arachidyl propionate sold under the trademark Waxenol 801 by Alzo, - phytosterol esters, - triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, - pentaerythritol esters, - non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 -C 50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C 2 -C 50 diol or polyol; - the ester aliphatic esters resulting from the esterification of a hydroxyl acid ester aliphatic ycarboxylic acid with an aliphatic carboxylic acid, - the polyesters resulting from the esterification, by a polycarboxylic acid, of an aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid ester, said ester comprising at least two hydroxyl groups such as the products Risocast DA-H, and Risocast DA-L - esters of diol dimer and diacid dimer, if appropriate, esterified on their (their) function (s) alcohol (s) or acid (s) free (s) by acid radicals or alcohols such as Plandool-G, and mixtures thereof. Among the pasty compounds of plant origin, a mixture of soy sterols and oxyethylenated (5OE) oxypropylene pentaerythritol (5 PO), marketed under the reference Lanolide by the company VEVY, will preferably be chosen. Preferably, the composition comprises a total pasty fatty substance content ranging from 0.5 to 50% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 40% or even better, from 5 to 30%.

The composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the abovementioned compounds, at least one structuring agent chosen from semi-crystalline polymers, lipophilic gelling agents and mixtures thereof.

Thus, according to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one gelling agent. The gelling agents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may be organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents.

As inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, there may be mentioned optionally modified clays, such as hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl-dimethyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, sold under the name Bentone 38V by the company ELEMENTIS.

It is also possible to mention fumed silica optionally treated hydrophobic surface whose particle size is less than 1 m. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called silica silylate according to the CTFA (8th edition, 2000). They are for example sold under the references Aerosil R812 by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-530 by the company CABOT, dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as silica dimethyl silylate according to the CTFA (5th edition, 2000). They are for example marketed under the Aerosil R972 references, and Aerosil R974 by the DEGUSSA company, CAB-O-SIL TS-610 and CAB-O-SIL TS-720 by CABOT. The hydrophobic fumed silica has in particular a particle size that can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm. Polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6, KSG16 and KSG18 by the company Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C and Trefil E-506C. by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC, SR DMF10, SR-DC556, SR 5CYC gel, SR DMF 10 gel and SR DC 556 gel by GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF 1204 and JK 113 by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethylcellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel by Dow Chemical; galactomannans having from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per sac, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated by C1-C6 alkyl chains, and in particular C1 groups; C3 and mixtures thereof. Block copolymers of the diblock, triblock or radial type of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB by the company BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylenepropylene) type, such as those sold under the name Kratori by the company SHELL CHEMICAL CO or else of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those marketed by PENRECO under the name Versagel, such as, for example, mixture of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and ethylene / propylene / styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960). Lipophilic gelling agents that may also be mentioned include polymers having a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000, comprising a) a polymer backbone having hydrocarbon-based repeating units provided with at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one fatty chain. pendant and / or at least one optionally functionalized terminal fatty chain having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being bonded to these hydrocarbon units, as described in applications WO-A-02/056847, WO-A-02/47619 whose content is incorporated by reference; in particular polyamide resins (especially comprising alkyl groups having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms) such as those described in US-A-5783657 whose contents are incorporated by reference. Among the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may also be made of dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those sold under the names Rheopearl TL or Rheopearl KL by the company CHIBA FLOUR.

It is also possible to use silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in US-A-5,874,069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5,981,680. These silicone polymers may belong to the following two families: polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and / or polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establish hydrogen interactions, both groups being located on grafts or branches. The compositions may also comprise at least one film-forming polymer. According to one embodiment, the composition contains at least one polymer which may be chosen from film-forming polymers. For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymer" means a compound having at least 2 repeating units, and preferably at least 3 repeating units. The term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film on a support, in particular on keratin materials. The polymer may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from from 0.5 to 40% by weight, preferably from 1% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 25% by weight. In one embodiment, the film-forming organic polymer is at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of: - film-forming polymers soluble in an organic liquid medium, in particular liposoluble polymers, when the organic liquid medium comprises at least one oil; dispersible film-forming polymers in an organic solvent medium, in particular polymers in the form of nonaqueous dispersions of polymer particles, preferably dispersions in silicone or hydrocarbon oils; in one embodiment, the nonaqueous polymer dispersions comprise polymer particles stabilized on their surface by at least one stabilizing agent; film-forming polymers in the form of aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, often called latexes; in this case, the composition comprises an aqueous phase; and - water-soluble film-forming polymers; in this case, the composition comprises an aqueous phase. Among the film-forming polymers that can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of free radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof. As film-forming polymer, mention may in particular be made of acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, silicone polymers, silicone-grafted acrylic polymers, polyamide polymers and copolymers, and polyisoprenes. It is understood that the amount of these additional compounds can be adjusted by those skilled in the art so as not to damage the desired effect in the context of the present invention.

Dyestuffs As stated above, the compositions according to the invention may advantageously contain a coloring agent which may be chosen from water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, pigments, pearlescent agents and mixtures thereof. The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more dyestuffs chosen from water-soluble dyes, and pulverulent dyestuffs such as pigments, nacres and flakes well known to those skilled in the art. The dyestuffs may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 30% by weight, and in particular from 0.05 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The term "pigments" is intended to mean white or colored, inorganic or organic particles, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting film.

The pigments may be present in a proportion of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, especially from 0.01 to 15% by weight, and in particular from 0.02 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. . As inorganic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and the like. chromium hydrate. It may also be a pigment having a structure which may for example be sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica. Such a pigment is marketed for example under the reference COVERLEAF NS or JS by CHEMICALS AND CATALYSTS and has a contrast ratio of about 30. The dyestuff may also comprise a pigment having a structure which may be for example microspheres type. silica containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is that marketed by MIYOSHI under the reference PC BALL PC-LL-100P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide. Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or diketo pyrrolopyrrole (DPP) lacquers. ) described in EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96/08537.

By nacres, it is necessary to understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with a dye. organic and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride. Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of mother-of-pearl TIMICA, FLAMENCO and DUOCHROME (based on mica) marketed by ENGELHARD, TIMIRON pearls marketed by MERCK, mother-of-pearl containing PRESTIGE mica marketed by the company. ECKART and nacres based on SUNSHINE synthetic mica sold by the company SUN CHEMICAL. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection. As an illustration of nacres that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of gold-colored nacres sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents marketed by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen sold especially by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint sold especially by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-colored pearlescent agents with a gold glint sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold especially by Engelhard under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with gold reflection sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with reflection silver sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl marketed by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.

By dyes, it is necessary to understand generally organic compounds soluble in fatty substances such as oils or in a hydroalcoholic phase. The liposoluble dyes may be chosen from Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, [3-carotene, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC orange 5, quinoline yellow. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect. This effect is different from a simple effect of conventional hue, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional dyestuffs such as monochromatic pigments. In the sense of the invention, stabilized means devoid of color variability effect with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature. For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic sheen, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, as well as fibers, in particular interferential fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect according to the invention.

The particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from: particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative; particles comprising a substrate, organic or inorganic, monomatiere or multimaterial at least partially covered by at least one metal-reflecting layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and the mixtures of said particles. Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te. Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (eg, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals. The term "metal derivatives" denotes compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulphides. As an illustration of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those sold under the names STARBRITE 1200 EAC by the company SIBERLINE and METALURE by the company ECKART. Mention may also be made of copper metal powders or alloy mixtures such as the references 2844 sold by the company Radium Bronze, metallic pigments such as aluminum or bronze, such as those sold under the names ROTOSAFE 700 from the company ECKART the silica-coated aluminum particles marketed under the name VISIONAIRE BRIGHT SILVER by ECKART and the metal alloy particles such as bronze powders (copper and zinc alloy) coated with silica marketed under the name of Visionaire Bright Natural Gold from Eckart. It may also be particles comprising a glass substrate such as those sold by the company NIPPON SHEET GLASS under the names MICROGLASS METASHINE.

The goniochromatic coloring agent may be chosen, for example, from interferential multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents. Examples of symmetrical interferential multilayer structures that can be used in compositions produced in accordance with the invention are, for example, the following structures: Al / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Al, pigments having this structure being marketed by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS; Cr / MgF 2 / Al / MgF 2 / Cr, pigments having this structure being marketed under the name CHROMAFLAIR by the company FLEX; MoS2 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / MoS2 Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3, and Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3, pigments having these structures being marketed under the name SICOPEARL by BASF MoS2 / SiO2 / mica -oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2; SnO / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / SnO; Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 SnO / mica / TiO 2 / SiO 2 / TiO 2 / mica / SnO, pigments having these structures being sold under the name XIRONA by the company Merck (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments may be the pigments of silica / titania / tin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Magic by the company Merck, the silica / brown iron oxide structural pigments marketed under the name XIRONA. INDIAN SUMMER by the company MERCK and the silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide structural pigments marketed under the name XIRONA CARRIBEAN BLUE by the company MERCK. Mention may also be made of the INFINITE COLORS pigments from SHISEIDO. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 structure, grey-green to gray-red is passed for SiO 2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for layers of SiO2 from 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO2 layers from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO2 layers from 430 to 440 nm. Mention may be made, by way of example of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure, those sold by the company 3M under the name Color Glitter. As liquid crystal goniochromatic particles, it is possible to use, for example, those sold by the company Chenix as well as those marketed under the name Helicone HC by the company Wacker.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the perlite particles, at least one additional charge, in particular at a total content ranging from 0.01 to 30%, in particular from 0.01% to 20% by weight. preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. For the purposes of the present invention, "fillers" are understood to mean particles of any form, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition irrespective of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. These fillers serve in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition. The fillers can be mineral or organic of any form, platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (nylon) powders (Orgasol from Atochem), poly-13-alanine and polyethylene, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon e), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrap from the Dow Corning Company) ) and silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba Tospearls, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocyanate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres ( Silica Beads from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example st. zinc, magnesium or lithium margarine, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate. It may also be particles comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyl lactone. In particular, it may be a hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone copolymer. Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example under the name PLASTIC POWDER D-400 or PLASTIC POWDER D-800 from TOSHIKI.

Additional Usual Cosmetic Ingredients The composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise any usual cosmetic ingredient that may be chosen in particular from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, surfactants, sunscreens, sweeteners, vitamins, moisturizers. , emollients, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, anti-free radical agents, sequestering agents, and mixtures thereof.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional ingredients and / or their quantity so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not impaired by the addition envisaged. In particular, a composition of the invention may be in the form of cast products in a stick or a dish. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is in the form of stick or paste lipstick or hot runners. In particular, the composition of the invention may be in the form of a colored lipstick product such as a lipstick, a lip pencil, optionally having care or treatment properties. It can be in the form of an anhydrous stick. By way of illustration of the fluid formulations, mention may be made especially of gloss.

The invention also relates to a process for makeup or care of the lips, wherein the composition according to the invention is applied to said lips. The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field. For example, it can be manufactured by the following method. At first, perlite particles, fillers and pigments can be milled in part of the oily phase. The remaining fat-soluble ingredients can then be mixed at a temperature of the order of 100 ° C. The ground material or the pre-dispersed actives can then be added to the oily phase. Any hydrophilic active agents can then be dispersed using a mechanical stirrer. Finally, in the case of a stick, the composition may be cast in a mold capable of providing it with the final shape (for example of a stick) and the whole may be allowed to cool to room temperature and / or in a freezer.

The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples given for illustrative and non-limiting purposes. Percentages are percentages by weight.

EXAMPLE 1 A composition of lipsticks INCI INGREDIENTS In oids COMMERCIAL REFERENCE Preservative BHT Ditertiobutyl 4-hydroxytoluene 0.1 Oily phase Sweet almond oil obtained by 7 cold pressing of SICTIA Triglycerides of 19.5 caprylic acids / caprique (60/40) MYRITOL 318 from COGNIS Shea butter 20.2 LIPEX SHEASOFT from AARHUSKARLSHAMN Castor oil monofilast 17.5 hydrogenated SALACOS HCISV-L Wax Microcrystalline wax (c20-c60) 3.2 MICROWAX HW from PARAMELT Wax candelilla 1,5 CANDELILLA WAX SP 75 from STRAHL & PITSCH Silicone derivative Poly methylpropylbehenoyloxy 3,5 dimethylsiloxane (melting point: 45-55 degrees Celsius) MIRASIL WAX-B from RHODIA Poly dimethylsiloxane with 3 alpha-omega alkyl groups in c30 / c45 (pm: 3000-3500) SF 1642 from MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS Talc charge: magnesium silicate (ci: 4,5 77718) (particle size: 2 microns) TALC 2755 USP BC from MPSI Optimum Perlite 1430 WORLD 1 MINERALS Pyrogenic silica hydrop Surface treated with di-methylsilane DEGUSSA AEROSIL R 972 Pigments 5.5 Fragrance 0.5 The composition is obtained according to the following protocol: In a first step, the pigments, perlite and talc are ground in one part phase A. The waxes, the preservative and the silicone compounds are then mixed at a temperature of the order of 100 ° C. The ground material is then added. Starch, silica and perfume are then added. Finally, the composition is poured into a pallet and the whole is allowed to cool to room temperature.

Example 2 lipstick stick INGREDIENTS INCI% by weight COMMERCIAL REFERENCE PHASE Hydrogenated jojoba oil 2.4 OILYING Hydrogen jojoba oil from DESERT WHALE Isostearyl isostearate 7 Isostearyl isostearyl from GATTEFOSSE Tridecyl trimellitate 9.1 Liponate CT from LIPO CHEMICALS Hydrogenated Polyisobutene 14.1 Parléam by NDF CORPS GRAS CORPORATION Bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 20.1 Softisan 649 by SASOL SILICONE Phenyl trimethicone 11.1 DOW CORNING 556 Cosmetic grade fluid from DOW CORNING Vinyl dimethicone / methicone silesquioxane 2 crosspolymer KSP 100 from SHINETSU Dimethicone (and) dimethycone crosspolymer 16.2 DOW CORNING 9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend from DOW CORNING CHARGE Distéardimonium hectorite 0.2 Bentone 38 VCG from ELEMENTIS Kaolin 1 Coslin C100 from ENGELHARD (BASF) Nylon 12 1 SP-500 from TORAY (DOW CORNING) Perlite 0.5 Optimat 1430 GOLD WORLD MINERALS COLOR Iron Oxide 0.96 Yellow 6 Lake 2.4 Red 7 0.64 Red 28 Lake 2 WAXES Polyethylene 1, 1 Performalene 500-L polyethylene from NEW PHASE TECHNOLOGIES Ozokerite 8.2 Ozokerite Wax SP 1021 P pellets from STRAHL & PITSCH The composition is obtained according to the following protocol. At first, the pigments, the bentone, the Kaolin and the perlite are ground in part of the oily phase.

The waxes and the fatty substances are then mixed at a temperature of the order of 100 ° C. The ground material and the silicone compounds are then added. The nylon load is finally added. Finally, the composition is poured into a mold to obtain a stick of 12.7 mm in diameter and the whole is allowed to cool in a freezer for about half an hour.

Claims (25)

1. Cosmetic composition for makeup and / or care of the lips comprising at least one fatty phase and at least 0.05% by weight of perlite particles relative to the total weight of the composition. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said particles have a particle size distribution such that at least 50% of the particles have a size less than 20 m. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that said particles have a particle size distribution such that 90% by weight of the particles have a size less than 55 m. 4. Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that said particles have a particle size distribution such that 90% by weight of the particles have a size less than 40 m. 5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that 90% by weight of the particles have a size greater than 5 m. 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that said particles represent at least 0.1% by weight, especially at least 0.5% by weight of the total weight of the composition. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least 30%, especially at least 40% by weight, or even at least 50% by weight of a fatty phase relative to its total weight. . 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the fatty phase contains at least 5% by weight, in particular at least 7% by weight, or even at least 10% by weight of solid fatty substance (s) relative to its total weight. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, containing at least one wax. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises less than 10%, or better still less than 4% water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or even is completely anhydrous. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said composition further comprises at least one additional charge. 12. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said filler is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight. preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one pasty fatty substance. 14. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises a total pasty fatty substance content ranging from 0.5 to 50% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 40% or even better. , from 5 to 30%. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises less than 2% or even less than 1% of volatile oil or is completely free of volatile oil. 16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one coloring agent. 17. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises a total content of coloring agent (s) ranging from 0.01 to 50%, especially from 0.01 to 30%, and in particular of 0.05. at 25%, by weight relative to its total weight. 18. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said coloring agent is chosen from pigments, pearlescent agents, water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes and mixtures thereof. 19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said composition is in solid form. 20. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it has a hardness of between 30 and 300 g, or even 50 to 200 g. 21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of cast products in stick or cup. 22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of stick or paste lipstick. 23. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 18, characterized in that it is in a gloss form. 24. A process for making up or caring for the lips, in which at least one composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 23 is applied to said lips. 25. Use of perlite particles as a matting agent in cosmetic products dedicated to the makeup of keratin materials, in particular the skin and more particularly the lips.