FR2943245A1 - Cosmetic composition, useful for makeup and/or care of keratin material such as skin or lips, and as lipstick, comprise at least one phenyl silicone oil and at least one wax comprising dicarboxylic acid diester and alcohol, in a medium - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprise at least one phenyl silicone oil and at least one wax, where the wax comprises at least one 12-18C dicarboxylic acid diester and 16-22C alcohol, in a medium.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising a diester wax and a phenyl silicone oil

The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and relates more particularly to a cosmetic makeup and / or care composition having a reinforced stability, especially over time, and intended to provide an improved gloss when applied. The cosmetic compositions contemplated in the present invention are more particularly makeup and / or care compositions intended to be applied to keratin materials, in particular the skin and the lips, and may be formulated in particular as lipstick or lip balm. , in lip liner, in a solid foundation, in particular cast in a stick or a cup, in an anticler product, in a skin-coloring product, in an eye-makeup product, such as eyeliners, in particular in the form of a pencil, and mascara, especially in the form of bread or eyeshadow. Obtaining an aesthetic effect after application of a cosmetic composition results from a set of properties intrinsic to the composition that can be expressed in terms of makeup performance, such as non-migration, comfort to the skin. application as well as in terms of the cosmetic properties that are for example the color, the behavior of the color, the shine and the shine of the gloss over time, in particular one hour after application of the composition. For example, gloss, color fastness and comfort on application prove to be decisive characteristics for obtaining an aesthetic effect after application of a composition formulated in a stick. Furthermore, the cosmetic compositions must also be stable over time, present and maintain a homogeneous appearance, in particular to maintain an attractive appearance with the users, avoiding in particular the phenomena of exudation as well as recrystallization of the waxes on their surface. To this end, the structuring, the mechanical properties and the thermal stability of compositions formulated in stick are generally ensured by the implementation of high contents of waxes. However, such levels may adversely affect the gloss, and gloss remanence over time, of these compositions.

For example, polyethylene waxes used to impart good thermal stability and good structuring of the liquid fatty phase negatively affect gloss. In general, the high amounts of ester waxes, such as the C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate or polar waxes used to structure oil-rich sticks, especially bright apolar oils, of molecular weight. high, lead to limit the degree of gloss likely to be achieved. Moreover, the non-migration properties of a cosmetic composition in wrinkles and fine lines are generally obtained by adding fillers, such as fumed silica in the formulas. However, the presence of these fillers tends to reduce the brightness of the composition thus prepared and to promote a felt dryness, and therefore discomfort, during the application of these formulas. It remains therefore to this day a need to be able to offer gloss formulations having good gloss retention, and not migrating into wrinkles and fine lines during the day. There is also a need to be able to provide cosmetic compositions having good homogeneity and good stability over time. In particular there is a need to be able to provide cosmetic compositions not undergoing phenomena of exudation, or syneresis, over time, or recrystallization of a portion of the waxes or pastes on their surface. There is still a need to be able to provide cosmetic compositions having a structuring satisfactory in terms of thermal stability and hardness, the gloss properties of which are not affected, or even improved. There is still a need to be able to provide handy cosmetic compositions that are easy to apply and comfortable throughout the day. Finally, there is still a need to be able to provide formulations which are rich in coloring matters, and in particular in pigments, and which maintain a satisfactory and even improved homogeneity and stability. The object of the present invention is to satisfy these needs. Thus, according to a first aspect, the subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one phenyl silicone oil and at least one wax, said wax comprising at least one C12-C18 dicarboxylic acid diester and C16-C22 alcohols. Surprisingly, the inventors have observed that the use of a mixture comprising at least one phenyl silicone oil and at least one wax comprising at least one C12-C18 dicarboxylic acid diester and C16-C22 alcohols, and particular of a phenyl silicone oil such as a phenyltrimethicone, a trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone and / or a trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane mixed with a wax comprising a mixture of distearyl octadecandioate, dibenyl octadecandioate and diketoxyl octadecandioate, made it possible to obtain formulations that are brighter on application, and over time, and whose comfort and holding (especially with the taking of a meal) are improved, and whose migration is limited. In particular, the inventors have been able to observe that such a mixture makes it possible to confer an excellent stability on the composition during its storage, particularly with regard to the exudation of the oily phase or the recrystallization phenomena, while at the same time allowing its application on a surface to be makeup, especially on the lips, an improved gloss effect. The stability of a composition of the invention may, for example, be assessed over a period of 2 months at 47 ° C. According to one advantage, a composition according to the invention has homogeneous structuring and stability, especially thermal, improved over time. According to another advantage, a composition of the invention has good mechanical properties and is comfortable to the application and over time. Advantageously, a composition according to the invention has a homogeneous, creamy structure, comfortable to the application. According to yet another advantage, a cosmetic composition of the invention makes it possible to impart makeup with improved gloss. According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may further comprise at least one additional wax which is distinct from the C12-C18 di-carboxylic acid diester wax and from C16-C22 alcohols, and / or at least one pasty compound. and / or at least one high molecular weight gloss oil having a high molar mass ranging from about 650 to about 10,000 g / mol.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a colored makeup composition for the skin or the lips, especially for the makeup of the lips, such as a lipstick, a gloss, a lip balm. lips, a repulper or a lip pencil. In particular, a composition of the invention may be a lipstick. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in solid form. The term solid characterizes the state of the composition at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The measurement of the hardness of a composition of the invention can be carried out as follows. A sample of the composition in question is hot cast in a stick mold 12.7 mm in diameter. The mold is then cooled in the freezer for about an hour. The stick is then stored at 20 ° C. The hardness of the samples is measured after 24 hours of waiting. The hardness of the samples of a composition of the invention, expressed in grams, is measured by means of a DFGS2 dynamometer marketed by INDELCO-CHATILLON. The hardness corresponds to the maximum shear force exerted by a rigid wire 250 m diameter in tungsten advancing at a speed of 100 mm / min. The technique described above is usually referred to as the so-called butter cutting method. Preferably, the composition according to the invention has, when it is solid, a hardness of between 30 and 300 g, or even 50 to 200 g. According to another aspect, the subject of the present invention is a process for the makeup and / or care of keratin materials, in particular the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous materials at least one layer of a composition according to the invention. Advantageously, a method according to the invention makes it possible to impart a bright and comfortable make-up in a durable manner over time. For the purposes of the invention, the term "keratinous material" is intended to mean the whole of the cutaneous surface, and in particular the skin, the lips and the mucous membranes.

According to yet another aspect, the subject of the present invention is the use in a cosmetic composition of at least one mixture comprising at least one phenyl silicone oil and at least one wax comprising at least one C12-C18 dicarboxylic acid diester and C16-C22 alcohols to impart improved stability and gloss to said composition. CARBOXYLIC DIACIDE DIESTER WAX AND ALCOHOLS A composition of the invention comprises at least one wax comprising at least one C12-C18 dicarboxylic acid diester and C16-C22 alcohols. The dicarboxylic acid residue of a diester suitable for the invention is derived from a C 12 -C 18 dicarboxylic acid. Advantageously, the C12-C18 di-carboxylic acid residue of the diester wax of the invention may be derived from a linear and saturated dicarboxylic acid. Preferably a dicarboxylic acid residue of a diester of the invention is derived from an octadecandioic acid (C18). An alcohol residue of a diester suitable for the invention is derived from a C16 to C22 alcohol, preferably linear and saturated. Preferably, the alcohol residue of the diester wax that is suitable for the invention is derived from a C18-C22 alcohol. According to one embodiment, a diester wax relating to the invention may comprise at least one C18 dicarboxylic acid diester. , preferably linear and saturated, and alcohols C18-C22, preferably linear and saturated. Advantageously, the alcohol residues of a diester of the invention may be derived from an alcohol chosen from octadecanol, octadecenol, nonadecanol, nonadecenol, eicosanol, eicosenol, unicosanol and unicosenol, docosanol, docosenol, and mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment, the esterifying alcohol residues the diacid may be identical or different. Advantageously, they can be identical. According to one embodiment, a diester wax that is suitable for the invention may have a melting point ranging from 73 ° C. to 76 ° C. According to one embodiment, a diester wax that is suitable for the invention may comprise a mixture of distearyl octadecandioate, dibenyl octadecandioate and diketoxyl octadecandioate.

A diester wax of dicarboxylic acid and of alcohols that are suitable for the invention is in particular described in the application WO 2006/097334 and may in particular be prepared from a di-carboxylic acid of C 18 and from a mixture of alcohols whose commercial reference is STENOL C 1822AT, this mixture comprising a mixture of C 1 to C 22 alcohols, as shown in Table 1, page 12 of this document. According to one embodiment, a composition may comprise at least one diester wax of dicarboxylic acid and of C16-C22 alcohols which are suitable for the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1.5 to 16% by weight, and more particularly from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one embodiment, a composition may comprise at least one diester wax of dicarboxylic acid and of alcohols that are suitable for the invention and at least one phenyl silicone oil in a diester wax-weight ratio of a carboxylic dicarboxylic acid. And C16-C22 alcohols: oil ranging from 1:20 to 1: 1, especially from 1:10 to 1: 3, and more particularly from 1:15 to 1: 8.

PHENYLATED SILICONE OIL A composition according to the invention comprises at least one phenyl silicone oil, also called phenyl silicone. By phenyl silicone is meant an organopolysiloxane substituted with at least one phenyl group. A phenyl silicone oil is preferably nonvolatile. By nonvolatile means an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10-3 mmHg (0. , 13 Pa). Preferably, the weight-average molecular weight of the phenyl silicone oil ranges from 500 to 10,000 g / mol.

According to one embodiment, a phenyl silicone oil may correspond to the following formula: R R R R Si R R Si Si Where R R R R

RiSi O 1 R (I)

wherein the R groups independently of one another are methyl or phenyl, with the proviso that at least one R is phenyl. Preferably in this formula, the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six.

According to another embodiment, a phenyl silicone oil that is suitable for the invention may have the following formula: ## STR2 ## in which the R groups represent, independently of one another, a methyl or phenyl, with the proviso that at least one R group is phenyl.

Preferably in this formula, said organopolysiloxane comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five.

Mixtures of the phenyl organopolysiloxanes described above can be used.

For example, mixtures of organopolysiloxane triphenyl, tetra- or penta-phenyl.

According to another embodiment, a phenyl silicone oil may have the following formula: ## STR1 ## in which Me represents methyl and Ph represents phenyl.

Such phenyl silicone is especially manufactured by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl 1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyl trisiloxane, INCI name : trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane). The reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid can also be used. According to another embodiment, the phenyl silicone oil corresponds to the following formula: (IV)

wherein Me is methyl, y is 1 to 1000, and X is -CH 2 -CH (CH 3) (Ph).

According to another embodiment, a phenyl silicone oil may correspond to the following formula: ## EQU1 ## where Si (CH 3) 3 Ph Me Me (V) in which -OR ' represents -O-SiMe3, y is from 1 to 1000 and z is from 1 to 1000.

A phenyl silicone oil may also be chosen from the phenyl silicones of formula (VI) below, and their mixtures: ## STR1 ## wherein: R 1 at Rio, independently of one another, are hydrocarbon radicals, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, C1-C30, m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, provided that the sum 'm + n + q' is different from 0. Preferably, the sum 'm + n + q' is between 1 and 100. Preferably, the sum 'm + n + p + q 'is between 1 and 900, more preferably between 1 and 800. Preferably, q is equal to 0. The phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from the following phenyl silicones of formula (VII), and mixtures thereof: Wherein R 1 to R 6, independently of one another, are hydrocarbon radicals, and wherein R 1 to R 6, independently of one another, are hydrocarbon radicals; cyclic or branched linear or branched unsaturated bonds, in C 1 -C 30, m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum 'n + m' is between 1 and 100.

Preferably, R1 to R6, independently of each other, represent a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, C1-C30, especially C1-C12, and in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radical. In particular, R1 to R6 may be identical, and may furthermore be a methyl radical. Preferably, one can have m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 and / or p = 0 or 1, in formula (VII). In particular, according to one embodiment, a phenyl silicone oil suitable for the invention may be chosen from the oils of formula (VIII), and mixtures thereof: R 1 CH, Si-O R Si CH 3 Si-CH 3 CH 3 Wherein: R is a C1-C30 alkyl radical, an aryl radical or an aralkyl radical, n is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, and m is a integer ranging from 0 to 100, provided that the sum n + m varies from 1 to 100.

In particular, the radicals R of formula (VIII) and R1 to Rio defined above, may each represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, especially C 2 -C 20, in particular C 3 -C 16 and more particularly C 4 alkyl radical. -CIO, or a C6-C14 mono- or polycyclic aryl radical, especially C10-C13 or an aralkyl radical whose aryl and alkyl radicals are as defined above. Preferably, R of the formula (VIII) and R1 to Rio may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical. According to one embodiment, it is possible to use a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII) having a viscosity at 25 ° C. of between 5 and 1500 mm 2 / s (ie 5 to 1500 cSt), preferably having a viscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm / s (ie 5 to 1000 cSt). As the phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII), phenyltrimethicones such as Dow Corning DC556 (22.5 cSt), Rhône Poulenc Silbione 70663V30 oil (28 cSt), or diphenyldimethicones such as oils can be used in particular. Belsil, including Belsil PDM1000 (1000cSt), Belsil PDM 200 (200 cSt) and Belsil PDM 20 (20cSt) from Wacker. Values in parentheses represent viscosities at 25 ° C.

Also, a nonvolatile phenyl silicone oil that is suitable for the invention may be chosen from the silicones of the following formula and their mixtures: R 3 O - Si R 4 R 5 Si - R 6 O - O - X R 2 n p

in which: R 1, R 2, R 5 and R 6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R 3 and R 4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or aryl radical, X is an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical, n and p being chosen so as to give the oil a molecular weight mass of less than 200 000 g / mol , preferably less than 150 000 g / mol and more preferably less than 100 000 g / mol. A phenyl silicone oil makes it possible in particular to improve the strength of the composition without reducing its gloss level. A phenyl silicone oil that is suitable for use in the invention may especially be chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.

A phenyl silicone oil may be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 1% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2% to 60% by weight and better still ranging from 5%. at 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

PHYSIOLOGICALLY ACCEPTABLE MEDIUM In addition to the compounds indicated above, a composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium. By physiologically acceptable medium is meant a medium which is particularly suitable for applying a composition of the invention to the skin or the lips. The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged. Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise less than 3% by weight of water, or better still less than 1% of water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferably the composition may be anhydrous. By anhydrous is meant in particular that the water is preferably not deliberately added to the composition but may not exclude the water being present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the composition. A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one liquid fatty phase and / or a solid fatty phase, at room temperature.

Liquid greasy phase A composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid fatty phase. In particular, a composition of the invention may comprise, in addition to the phenyl silicone oil, at least one additional volatile or non-volatile oil, different from the phenyl silicone oil. By oil is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

The additional oil may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 50% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to % to 30% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition of the invention may comprise a total liquid fatty phase, including the phenyl silicone oil, in a content ranging from 20 to 80%, in particular from 30 to 70%, in particular from 35 to 65%, and more. particularly, from 40 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oily phase suitable for the preparation of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated or otherwise, or mixtures thereof. The oils may be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. Hydrocarbon oil is understood to mean an oil formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. By silicone oil is meant an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular comprising Si-O groups. The additional oils may be polar or apolar. Polar oils are advantageous for promoting the dispersion of pigments, and apolar oils are suitable for imparting high gloss. Additional oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise at least one additional non-volatile oil. By nonvolatile oil is meant an oil remaining on the keratin materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10-3 mmHg (0.13 Pa). It is also possible to define a non-volatile oil as having an evaporation rate such that under the conditions defined above, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg / cm 2.

A composition of the invention may comprise an additional nonvolatile oil in a content ranging from 0.1 to 70%, more preferably from 1 to 60%, and more preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. An additional non-volatile oil suitable for the invention may be a hydrocarbon oil.

As nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oil, especially in the case of compositions intended to be applied to the lips, mention may be made in particular of: - hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C24, the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, such as triglycerides of heptanoic, octanoic acids; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, or caprylic / capric triglyceride, marketed in particular under the name MYRITOL 318 by the company COGNIS; - synthetic ethers; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oil or its derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam or Parleam® V marketed by the company Nippon Oil Fats, squalane, and mixtures thereof; esters of fatty acids, in particular from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular of octanoic acid, heptanoic acid, lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid and stearic acid, for example propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, poly-glyceryl-2-diisostearate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; synthetic esters, such as oils of formula R1000R2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially a branched hydrocarbon chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms at provided that RI + R2 is 11, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, stearate of 2-octyl dodecyl, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyl dodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, the myristate of isopropyl, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethyl hexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl decyl laurate, 2-octyl palmitate, decyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisosteal malate aryl, isodecyl neopentanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, glycerol or diglycerine triisostearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; the pentaerythritol esters; esters of aromatic acids and alcohols comprising 4 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular tridecyl trimellitate; the polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, such as those described in patent application FR 08 53634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol; . Mention may in particular be made of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer); - The branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance oleic alcohol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyl dodecanol; higher C8-C26 fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, or isostearic acid; - and their mixtures. According to one embodiment, an additional non-volatile oil that is suitable for the invention may be a silicone oil. The nonvolatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be chosen from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes containing alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of a silicone chain, groups each having 2 to 24 carbon atoms, such as PDMS DC 200 Fluid 5 cST and 350 cSt marketed by Dow Corning. An additional non-volatile oil may also be selected from the bright oils. Thus, according to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously also comprise a gloss oil, preferably a high molecular weight gloss ranging from 650 to 10,000 g / mol, and preferably from 750 to 7500 g / mol. Preferably, the oil (s) brilliant (s) represent, when present in a composition of the invention, from 0.1 to 70%, better from 1 to 60%, and more preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The glossy oil can be chosen from: lipophilic polymers such as: polybutylenes such as INDOPOL H-100 (of molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), INDOPOL H-300 (MW = 1340) g / mol), INDOPOL H-1500 (MW = 2160 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by AMOCO, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as PANALANE H-300 E, marketed or manufactured by AMOCO (MW = 1340) g / mol), Viseal 20000, marketed or manufactured by SYNTEAL (MW = 6000 g / mol), REWOPAL PIB 1000, marketed or manufactured by WITCO (MW = 1000 g / mol), polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: PURESYN 10 (MW = 723 g / mol), PURESYN 150 (MW = 9200 g / mol), marketed or manufactured by MOBIL CHEMICALS, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone such as: copolymer vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene, ANTARON VU216 sold or manufactured by ISP (MW = 7300 g / mol), esters such as: linear fatty acid esters having a total number of carbon ranging from 35 to 70 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW = 697 g / mol), - hydroxylated esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate (MW = 965 g / mol) ), aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW = 757 g / mol), esters of fatty alcohol or branched C24-C28 fatty acids such as those described in application EP-A-0 955 039, and in particular triisoarachidyl citrate (MW = 1033.76 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisonanoate (MW = 697 g / mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MM = 891 g / mol), tri-decyl-2 tetradecanoate from glyceryl (MW = 1143 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW = 1202 g / mol), polyglyceryl tetraisostearate -2 (MW = 1232 g / mol) or pentaerythrityl tetra decyl-2 tetradecanoate (MW = 1538 g / mol), a polyester resulting from the esterification of at least one carboxylic acid (s) triglyceride (s) hydroxylated by an acid of aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, optionally unsaturated, such as castor oil of succinic acid and isostearic acid sold under the reference Zénigloss by Zenitech, - polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of acid unsaturated fat and diol such as those described in patent application FR 08 53634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Mention may in particular be made of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), - esters of diol dimer and diacid dimer of general formula: HO-R '- (- OCO Wherein R 'represents a residue of diol dimer obtained by hydrogenation of dilinoleic diacid R2 represents a hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid residue, and h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9. Suitable in particular to the invention, the esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dimers dilinoleic diols marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5 and DD-DA7, the oils of plant origin such as sesame oil (MW = 820 g / mol), and mixtures thereof. A gloss oil may also be a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride oligomer and saturated dicarboxylic acid oligomer.

Such an oligomer is obtained by reacting a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride, such as hydrogenated castor oil, and a saturated dicarboxylic acid. According to the invention, the dicarboxylic acid is said to be saturated when the hydrocarbon chain constituting it does not contain unsaturation, namely carbon-carbon double bond. By dicarboxylic acid is meant a hydrocarbon compound comprising two carboxyl functions --COOH. The diacid may be a single diacid or a mixture of several diacids. Similarly, within the meaning of the invention, the oligomer may be a mixture of several oligomers. Among the saturated dicarboxylic acids which may be used, mention may be made of sebacic acid (or 1,10-decanedioic acid), succinic acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, octadecamethylene dicarboxylic acid and acid. eïcosadicarboxylique. More particularly, the oligomer may be an oligoester whose monomers are represented by the following formulas (A) of triglyceride and (B) diacid: ## STR2 ##

R1 R1 R1 C = 0 CO = CO = O O O I I I CH2 CH CH O O

(B) in which:

RI represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene group comprising, for example, from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group comprising, for example, from 1 to 12 carbon (A) atoms; R 1 preferably represents a group - (CH 2) r 1, where n can vary from 1 to 20 and in particular from 3 to 16, for example from 6 to 12; R2 preferably represents a group - (CH2) m CH3, where m may vary from 0 to 11 and in particular from 2 to 11, for example from 3 to 9; According to one embodiment n = 10 and m = 5, and the OH group

-R1 -C-R2 H represents the alkyl residue of 12-hydroxystearic acid, the major component of hydrogenated castor oil; X1 is a linear or branched alkylene group such as, for example, a linear alkylene group - (CH2) X, where x may vary from 1 to 30 and in particular from 3 to 15. When the diacid is sebacic acid, x is equal to 8. The average degree of polymerization of the oligomer may vary between 3 and 12. The oligoester hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid is marketed by the company CRODA under different names depending on the degree of polymerization. Among the oligoesters formed from hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid, that having a degree of polymerization of about 4.6 is available under the trade name CROMADOL CWS-5 and that having a degree of polymerization of about 9, 5 is available under the trade name CROMADOL CWS-10, marketed by Croda Japan KK. The oligomer of hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid sold under the name CRODABOND-CSA (MW = 3500) by the company CRODA is also mentioned. . The oligomer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, particularly from 0.1 to 40% by weight, more particularly from 0.5 to 30% by weight, for example from 1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, a gloss oil suitable for the invention may have a refractive index of greater than or equal to 1.45 and in particular ranging from 1.45 to 1.6. According to one embodiment, an additional non-volatile oil may be an apolar oil. By apolar oil, within the meaning of the present invention, is meant an oil whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C. as defined below, Sa is equal to 0 (J / cm 3). The apolar oils are in particular the oils hydrocarbon compounds consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms and free of heteroatoms such as N, O, and P. The apolar non-volatile oil is preferably a hydrocarbon oil.

According to another embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile oil. For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). ). According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise from 1% to 70% by weight, even from 5% to 70% by weight, even from 10% to 60% by weight, and in particular from 15% to 50% by weight. % by weight of volatile additional oil relative to the total weight of the composition. According to another preferred embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise less than 30% by weight, or even less than 15% by weight, or even less than 5% by weight, of additional volatile oil relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferably, a composition according to the invention is free of additional volatile oil. These oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof. According to a variant of the invention, a volatile oil may be a volatile silicone oil. A volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention may be chosen from silicone oils having a flash point ranging from 40 ° C. to 102 ° C., preferably having a flash point greater than 55 ° C. and less than or equal to 95 ° C. and preferably ranging from 65 ° C to 95 ° C. A volatile silicone oil may be chosen from linear or cyclic silicone oils such as linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms. By way of example of such oils, there may be mentioned octyltrimethicone, hexyltrimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (cyclopentasiloxane or D5), octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (cyclotetradimethylsiloxane or D4), dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4), KF 96 A of Shin Etsu, polydimethylsiloxanes such as those sold under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), DC 200 (5 cSt), DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning. According to a variant of the invention, a volatile oil may be a volatile hydrocarbon oil. The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes, for instance C 8 -C 16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins), such as isododecane ( also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars' or permetyls, branched Cg-C16 esters neopentanoate isohexyl, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell or by Shell, can also be used. Preferably, a volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. As other volatile hydrocarbon oils that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may also be made of ketones that are liquid at ambient temperature, such as methyl ethyl ketone or acetone; short-chain esters (having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate; ethers which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as diethyl ether, dimethyl ether or dichlorodiethyl ether; alcohols and in particular linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol, and mixtures thereof. A volatile oil may also be chosen from fluorinated oils such as perfluoropolyethers, perfluoroalkanes such as perfluorodecalin, perfluorodamantanes, monoesters, diesters and triesters of perfluoroalkylphosphates and fluorinated ester oils.

A composition according to the invention may comprise, in addition, at least one structuring agent of liquid fatty phase chosen from waxes distinct from the C12-C18 di-carboxylic acid diester wax and from C16-C22 alcohols, previously described, compounds pasty, and their mixtures.

Additional Waxes According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional wax which is distinct from the C 12 -C 18 dicarboxylic acid diester wax and from C 16 -C 22 alcohols previously described. A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one solid fatty substance chosen from waxes, as structuring agent. An additional wax considered in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C up to 200 ° C, and especially up to 120 ° C. In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45 ° C., and in particular greater than or equal to 55 ° C. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments. The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then cooled from 100 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -20 ° C to 100 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the wax sample as a function of temperature is measured. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The additional waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes which are solid at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. As an illustration of additional waxes that are suitable for the invention, there may be mentioned hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, Carnauba, Candelilla wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and their esters. There may also be mentioned waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these, there may be mentioned isomerized jojoba oil such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50, hydrogenated sunflower oil , hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil. Mention may also be made of silicone waxes (C30-45 alkyl dimethicone) and fluorinated waxes. There may also be mentioned as additional waxes an ester wax, different from the previously defined diester wax. By ester wax is meant according to the invention a wax comprising at least one ester function. In particular, it is possible to use as ester wax: i) waxes of formula RICOOR 2 in which R 1 and R 2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O , N or P and whose melting point temperature varies from 25 to 120 ° C. In particular, a C 20 -C 40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture or a C 10 -C 40 alkyl stearate, can be used as ester wax. Such waxes are in particular sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P, Kester Wax K 80 P, or Kester KSH WAX by the company Koster Keunen. It is also possible to use an ester of polyethylene glycol and of montanic acid (octacosanoic acid) such as the wax LICOWAX KPS FLAKES (INCI name: glycol montanate) sold by the company Clariant. ii) di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate, sold under the name HEST 2T-4S by the company HETERENE, iii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid, different from said diester wax of a C12-C18 dicarboxylic acid and C16-C22 alcohols, of the general formula R3 - (- OCO-R4-COO-R5), in which R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a group C4-C30 alkyl and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 alkyl group, which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations, and preferably being linear and unsaturated, iv) cetyl and behenic acid waxes Hydrogenated castor oil fats, such as those sold under the names Phytowax Ricin 16L64 and 22L73 by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in Application FR-A-2 792 190. As additional wax suitable for the invention, it is also possible to use an alcoholic wax. By alcoholic wax is meant, according to the invention, a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, that is to say comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group. As alcohol wax, there may be mentioned, for example, the Performacol 550-L Alcohol wax from New Phase Technologie. As additional wax suitable for the invention, mention may be made of microwaxes.

As microwaxes that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of carnauba micro-waxes such as that sold under the name MicroCare 350 by the company Micro Powders, synthetic wax waxes such as that marketed under the name named MicroEase 114S by the company MICRO POWDERS, micro waxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax such as those sold under the names Micro Care 300 and 310 by the company MICRO POWDERS, micro waxes constituted a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325 by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene micro-waxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200, 220, 220L and 250S by the company MICRO POWDERS and the micro-waxes of polytetrafluoroethylene tell es that those marketed under the names Microslip 519 and 519 L by the company MICRO POWDERS, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional wax chosen from ester waxes, polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, and mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise from 1% to 20% by weight of additional waxes, in particular from 2% to 15%, and more particularly from 4% to 10% by weight and more particularly from 6% to 8% additional waxes relative to the total weight of the composition. According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may be devoid of additional wax.

Paste Compounds A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one pasty compound. A pasty compound may advantageously be used to impart to the composition of the invention a gloss, a persistence of the improved gloss and a feeling of comfort.

The presence of a pasty compound may advantageously confer improved comfort during the deposition of a composition of the invention on keratinous fibers. For the purposes of the present invention, pasty means a lipophilic fat compound having a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising at the temperature of 23 ° C. a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound is less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23 ° C. represents from 23 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C. preferably represents between 40 and 85% by weight of the compound. The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form. The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument , with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute, according to ISO 11357-3: 1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is preferably 40 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably 50 to 100%, preferably 80 to 100%, more preferably 90 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.

The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. A compound that is suitable for the invention may advantageously be chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives, polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds, vinyl polymers, in particular: homopolymers of olefins, Copolymers of olefins, homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes, linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C 8 -C 30 alkyl group, homo oligomers and copolymers of vinyl esters having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups, such as polyvinyl laurate, homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups, liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more diols C2-C, 00, in particular C2-050, - esters of fatty acid or alcohol, - pastes of vegetable origin, such as orange wax, for example, that marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen, shea butter, hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for example, the compound marketed under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance or cocoa butter. - and their mixtures.

Among the esters, there may be mentioned: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular diglycerol esters, in particular adipic acid and glycerol condensates, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, in the image, in particular, of those marketed under the brand name Softisan 649 by the company Sasol or such as polyacyladipate-2 bis diglyceryl, - arachidyl propionate marketed under the trademark Waxenol 801 by Alzo, - phytosterol esters, - triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, such as coco-glycerides hydrogenated, non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 -C 50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-050 diol or polyol; - the ester aliphatic esters the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid (Salacos HCIS (V) -L sold by the company Nishing Oil), - the polyesters resulting from the esterification, with a polycarboxylic acid, of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester, said ester comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, such as Risocast DA-H products, and Risocast DA-L, and mixtures thereof.

A composition of the invention may advantageously comprise at least one pasty compound chosen from polyvinyl laurate, hydrogenated vegetable oils and mixtures thereof. Preferably, a composition of the invention may comprise a total content of pasty fat, ranging from 0.5 to 50% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 40% or even better, from 1 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Polyesters or Polycondensates A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one polyester or polycondensate. A composition according to the invention makes it possible to integrate the polyesters composition while maintaining the stability properties, so as to further improve the gloss of the composition.

A polyester, also called polycondensate subsequently, is advantageously obtained by reaction of a polyol, a polycarboxylic acid, a non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid, and an aromatic monocarboxylic acid. In particular, a polyester which is suitable for the invention may be preferentially obtained by reaction of: a tetraol having from 4 to 10 carbon atoms; - a saturated monocarboxylic acid, linear or branched, having from 9 to 23 carbon atoms; a cyclic dicarboxylic acid having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; an aromatic monocarboxylic acid having 7 to 11 carbon atoms. Advantageously, a polyester may be obtained by reacting: from 10 to 30% by weight of tetraol having from 4 to 10 carbon atoms; from 40 to 80% by weight of a saturated monocarboxylic acid, linear or branched, having from 9 to 23 carbon atoms; from 5 to 30% by weight of a cyclic dicarboxylic acid having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; from 0.1 to 10% by weight of aromatic monocarboxylic acid having from 7 to 11 carbon atoms, the contents being expressed as percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the polyester. A polyester used according to the invention comprises a tetraol. By tetraol is meant a polyol comprising 4 hydroxyl groups. A tetraol used for the preparation of the polyester is advantageously a hydrocarbon compound, linear, branched and / or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and may further comprise one or more oxygen atoms intercalated in the chain (ether function). It is of course possible to use a mixture of such tetraols. Said tetraol is in particular a saturated hydrocarbon compound, linear or branched, comprising 4 to 10 carbon atoms. A tetraol may be chosen from pentaerythritol or tetramethylolmethane, erythritol, diglycerol or ditrimethylolpropane. Preferably, the tetraol is chosen from pentaerythritol and diglycerol.

More preferably still, a tetraol may be pentaerythritol. The content of tetraol or tetraol mixture represents from 10 to 30% by weight, especially 12 to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 14 to 22% by weight, of the total weight of the polyester. The polyester used according to the invention also comprises a saturated monocarboxylic acid, linear or branched, having from 9 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular 12 to 22 carbon atoms. By saturated monocarboxylic acid is meant a compound of formula RCOOH, wherein R is a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, especially from 11 to 21 carbon atoms. It is of course possible to use a mixture of such monocarboxylic acids. Among the saturated monocarboxylic acids that may be used, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture: nonanoic acid, isononanoic acid (or p-arganic acid), decanoic acid (or capric acid), lauric acid , tridecanoic acid (or tridecyl acid), myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid. Preferably, lauric acid, myristic acid, isononanoic acid, nonanoic acid, palmitic acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, and mixtures thereof may be used. Preferentially, isostearic acid or stearic acid is used. When the saturated monocarboxylic acid is liquid at room temperature, it generally leads to a liquid polyester at room temperature. As liquid monocarboxylic acid, mention may be made of nonanoic acid, isononanoic acid and isostearic acid. When the saturated monocarboxylic acid is solid at room temperature, it generally leads to a solid polyester at room temperature. As solid monocarboxylic acid, there may be mentioned decanoic acid, lauric acid, tridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid. The content of saturated monocarboxylic acid, or the mixture of said acids, represents from 40 to 80% by weight, in particular from 40 to 75% by weight, or even 45 to 70% by weight, and better still 50 to 65% by weight, by weight. total of the polyester.

The polyester used according to the invention also comprises a cyclic dicarboxylic acid having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms, especially having 8 carbon atoms. The cyclic dicarboxylic acid can be aromatic or nonaromatic. The cyclic dicarboxylic acid is preferably aromatic. It is of course possible to use a mixture of such cyclic dicarboxylic acids. A cyclic dicarboxylic acid may be chosen from cyclopropanedicarboxylic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, cyclobutanedicarboxylic acid, phthalic acid, terephthalic acid, isophthalic acid, tetrahydrophthalic acid and naphthalene-2 acid. 3-dicarboxylic acid, naphthalene-2,6-dicarboxylic acid, or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the cyclic dicarboxylic acid is chosen from phthalic acid, terephthalic acid and isophthalic acid. Phthalic acid can advantageously be used in its anhydride form. Preferably, the cyclic dicarboxylic acid is isophthalic acid. A cyclic dicarboxylic acid, or a mixture of such diacids, can represent from 5 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 15% to 25% by weight, of the total weight of the polyester. A polyester used according to the invention also comprises an aromatic monocarboxylic acid having 7 to 11 carbon atoms. By aromatic monocarboxylic acid is meant a compound of formula R'COOH, in which R 'is an aromatic hydrocarbon radical comprising from 6 to 10 carbon atoms; R 'is in particular a phenyl radical, optionally substituted with 1 to 3 alkyl radicals comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. It is of course possible to use a mixture of such aromatic monocarboxylic acids. The aromatic monocarboxylic acid may be selected from benzoic acid and 4-tert-butylbenzoic acid. The aromatic monocarboxylic acid is preferably benzoic acid. Said aromatic monocarboxylic acid, or the mixture of said acids, represents from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 9.95% by weight, better still from 1 to 9.5% by weight, or even 1, 5 to 8% by weight, of the total weight of the polyester.

According to a preferred embodiment, said polyester is obtained by reacting: from 12 to 25% by weight of a tetraol having from 4 to 10 carbon atoms; from 40 to 75% by weight of a saturated monocarboxylic acid, linear or branched, having from 9 to 23 carbon atoms; from 15 to 25% by weight of a cyclic dicarboxylic acid having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; from 0.5 to 9.95% by weight of an aromatic monocarboxylic acid having from 7 to 11 carbon atoms, the contents being expressed as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the polyester. According to another preferred embodiment, said polyester is obtained by reacting: from 14 to 22% by weight of a tetraol having from 4 to 10 carbon atoms; from 45 to 70% by weight of a saturated monocarboxylic acid, linear or branched, having from 9 to 23 carbon atoms; from 15 to 25% by weight of a cyclic dicarboxylic acid having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; from 1 to 9.5% by weight of an aromatic monocarboxylic acid having from 7 to 11 carbon atoms, the contents being expressed in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the polyester. According to another preferred embodiment, said polyester is obtained by reacting: from 14 to 22% by weight of a tetraol having from 4 to 10 carbon atoms; from 50 to 65% by weight of a saturated monocarboxylic acid, linear or branched, having from 9 to 23 carbon atoms; from 15 to 25% by weight of a cyclic dicarboxylic acid having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms; from 1.5 to 8% by weight of an aromatic monocarboxylic acid having from 7 to 11 carbon atoms, the contents being expressed as percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the polyester.

In a preferred embodiment of the polyester used according to the invention, the aromatic monocarboxylic acid is present in a molar amount less than or equal to that of the linear or branched monocarboxylic saturated acid; in particular the ratio between the number of moles of aromatic monocarboxylic acid and the number of moles of linear or branched monocarboxylic saturated acid varies from 0.08 to 0.70. Said weight ratio preferably varies from 0.10 to 0.60, and still more preferably from 0.12 to 0.40. According to one embodiment of the invention, a polyester described above may be chosen from benzoic acid / isophthalic acid / isostearic acid / pentaerythritol polyesters, benzoic acid / isophthalic acid / stearic acid / pentaerythritol polyesters, and mixtures thereof. . These monomers are in particular used according to the ranges of concentrations of monomers described above. Preferably, the polyester has: - an acid number, expressed in mg of potassium hydroxide per g of polyester, greater than or equal to 1; in particular between 2 and 30, and even better between 2.5 and 15; and / or - a hydroxyl number expressed in mg of potassium hydroxide per g of polyester, greater than or equal to 40; in particular between 40 and 120, and even better between 40 and 80. These acid and hydroxyl numbers can be easily determined by the skilled person by the usual analytical methods. Preferably, a polyester has a weight average molecular weight (Mw) of between 3,000 and 1,000,000, or even between 3,000 and 300,000. The average molecular weight can be determined by gel permeation chromatography or by light scattering. according to the solubility of the polymer in question. Preferably, a polyester has a viscosity, measured at 110 ° C, of between 20 and 4000 mPa.s, especially between 30 and 3500 mPa.s, or between 40 and 3000 mPa.s and even better between 50 and 2500 mPa. s. This viscosity is measured as described below.

Advantageously, a polyester may be in liquid form at room temperature. The liquid polyester may have a weight average molecular weight (Mw) ranging from 40,000 to 1,000,000, preferably from 50,000 to 300,000. A liquid polyester may have a viscosity, measured at 110 ° C, ranging from 1,000 at 4000 mPa.s, and preferably ranging from 1500 to 3000 mPa.s. In particular, a liquid polyester may be a benzoic acid / isophthalic acid / isostearic acid / pentaerythritol acid polyester, these monomers being in particular present according to the ranges of monomer concentrations described above. A polyester may also be in solid form at room temperature. A solid polyester may have a weight average molecular weight (Mw) of from 3,000 to 30,000, preferably from 8,000 to 15,000. A solid polyester may have a viscosity, measured at 80 ° C, of from 20 to 20,000. 1000 mPa.s, and preferably ranging from 50 to 600 mPa.s. In particular, a solid polyester is a benzoic acid / isophthalic acid / stearic acid / pentaerythritol polyester, these monomers being present in particular according to the ranges of monomer concentrations described above. A polyester may be prepared according to the synthesis method described in EP-A-1 870 082.

The viscosity of a polyester can be measured as described below. The viscosity at 80 ° C. or at 110 ° C. of a polyester is measured using a planar cone viscometer of the BROOKFIELD CAP 1000+ type. The adapted cone-plane is determined by the person skilled in the art, on the basis of his knowledge; in particular: - between 50 and 500 mPa.s, one can use a cone 02, - between 500 and 1000 mPa.s: cone 03, - between 1000 and 4000 mPa.s: cone 05, and - between 4000 and 10000 mPa. The amount of polyester present in the compositions depends, of course, on the type of composition and the desired properties and can vary within a very wide range, generally between 0.1 and 70% by weight. preferably between 1 and 50% by weight, especially between 10 and 45% by weight, or even between 20 and 40% by weight, and better still between 25 and 35% by weight relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition.

A composition of the invention may advantageously also comprise at least one dyestuff and / or a filler.

COLORING MATERIALS A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one dyestuff. A cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention may advantageously incorporate at least one dyestuff chosen from organic or inorganic dyestuffs, in particular, of the type of pigment or nacre conventionally used in cosmetic, fat-soluble or water-soluble compositions, optical effect materials. specific and their mixtures. The term "pigments" is intended to mean white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting film. The pigments may be present in a proportion of from 0.01 to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 10% by weight, and in particular from 0.02 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. As inorganic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and Chromium hydrate. It may also be a pigment having a structure which may for example be sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica. Such a pigment is marketed for example under the reference COVERLEAF NS or JS by CHEMICALS AND CATALYSTS and has a contrast ratio of about 30. The coloring material may also comprise a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, of the type silica microspheres containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is that marketed by MIYOSHI under the reference PC BALL PC-LL-100P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or diketo pyrrolopyrrole (DPP) lacquers. ) described in EP-A-0 542 669, EP-A-0 787 730, EP-A-0 787 731 and WO-A-96/08537.

By nacres, it is necessary to understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride. Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of mother-of-pearl TIMICA, FLAMENCO and DUOCHROME (based on mica) marketed by ENGELHARD, TIMIRON pearls marketed by MERCK, mother-of-pearl containing PRESTIGE mica marketed by the company. ECKART and nacres based on SUNSHINE synthetic mica sold by the company SUN CHEMICAL. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection. As an illustration of the pearlescent agents that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made, in particular, of gold-colored pearlescent agents, sold in particular by ENGELHARD, under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres, in particular, sold by the company Merck under the names Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen, in particular, marketed by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the red-colored pearlescent agents, in particular, marketed by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents, in particular, marketed by Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); nacres of red hue with gold glare, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); black nacres with gold reflection, sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue pearls, in particular, sold by MERCK under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), white nacres with silvery reflection, in particular, marketed by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl, in particular sold by the company Merck under the name Indian Summer (Xirona), and their mixtures. A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise water-soluble or liposoluble dyes. Liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, [3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC orange 5 and yellow quinoline. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice and methylene blue. A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect. This effect is different from a simple conventional hue effect, i.e. unified and stabilized as produced by conventional dyestuffs, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. In the sense of the invention, stabilized means devoid of color variability effect with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.

For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic sheen, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and especially interferential fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect according to the invention. The particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from: particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, particles comprising an organic or inorganic substrate, monomaterial or multimaterial, at least partially covered by at least one metal-reflecting layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and - mixtures of said particles. Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te. Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (e.g., bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals. The term "metal derivatives" denotes compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulphides. As an illustration of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those sold under the names STARBRITE 1200. EAC by the company SIBERLINE and METALURE by the company ECKART. Mention may also be made of copper metal powders or mixtures of alloys, such as the references 2844 sold by the company Radium Bronze, metallic pigments, such as aluminum or bronze, such as those sold under the trade names ROTOSAFE 700 of ECKART company, the silica-coated aluminum particles marketed under the name VISIONAIRE BRIGHT SILVER by the company ECKART and the metal alloy particles, such as bronze powders (alloy copper and zinc) coated with silica marketed under the name of Visionaire Bright Natural Gold from Eckart.

It may also be particles comprising a glass substrate such as those sold by the company NIPPON SHEET GLASS under the names MICROGLASS METASHINE. The goniochromatic coloring agent may be selected from, for example, interfering multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents. Examples of symmetrical interferential multilayer structures that can be used in compositions produced according to the invention are, for example, the following structures: Al / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Al, pigments having this structure being marketed by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS; Cr / MgF 2 / Al / MgF 2 / Cr, pigments having this structure being marketed under the name CHROMAFLAIR by the company FLEX; MoS2 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / MoS2 Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3, and Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3, pigments having these structures being marketed under the name SICOPEARL by BASF MoS2 / SiO2 / mica -oxide / SiO2 / MoS2, Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2; SnO / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / SnO; Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 SnO / mica / TiO 2 / SiO 2 / TiO 2 / mica / SnO, pigments having these structures being sold under the name XIRONA by the company Merck (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments may be the pigments of silica / titania / tin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Magic by the company Merck, the silica / brown iron oxide structural pigments marketed under the name XIRONA. INDIAN SUMMER by the company MERCK and the silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide structural pigments marketed under the name XIRONA CARRIBEAN BLUE by the company MERCK. Mention may also be made of the INFINITE COLORS pigments from SHISEIDO. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 structure, grey-green to gray-red is passed for SiO 2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for layers of SiO2 from 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO2 layers from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO2 layers from 430 to 440 nm. Mention may be made, by way of example of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure, those marketed by the company 3M under the name COLOR GLITTER.

As liquid crystal goniochromatic particles, it is possible to use, for example, those sold by CHENIX, as well as those marketed under the name HELICONE HC by WACKER. A composition of the invention may comprise from 0.005% to 20% by weight, in particular from 0.01% to 10%, from 0.1% to 6% and in particular from 1% to 4% by weight of coloring matter relative to the weight. total of the composition.

Fillers A composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one filler, of organic or inorganic nature, making it possible, in particular, to confer on it improved stability with regard to exudation and improved non-migration properties after application. By charge is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, they make it possible to impart body or stiffness to the composition and / or softness, and uniformity to makeup. The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber or any other intermediate form between these defined forms. The fillers according to the invention may or may not be superficially coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance which promotes dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the process. composition. For the purposes of the present invention, the terms mineral fillers and inorganic fillers are used interchangeably. Among the mineral fillers that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, trimethyl siloxysilicate, kaolin, bentonite, precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and hydrogen carbonate. magnesium, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, silica-based fillers such as Aerosil 200, Aerosil 300; Sunsphare L-31, Sunphare H-31 marketed by Asahi Glass; Chemicelen marketed by Asahi Chemical; silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass, and their blends. Among the organic fillers that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of polyamide powders (Nylon Orgasol from Atochem), poly-b-alanine and polyethylene, powders of polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon e), lauroylysine, starch, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, hollow microspheres of polymers, such as EXPANCEL (NOBEL INDUSTRIE), metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 12 carbon atoms. 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba Tospearl, for example). for example), polyurethane powders, in particular, crosslinked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyl lactone. In particular, it may be a hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone polymer. Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example, under the name PLASTIC POWDER D-400 or PLASTIC POWDER D-800 from TOSHIKI, and mixtures thereof. A composition of the invention may comprise from 1 to 20% by weight of charges relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 5 to 15% by weight, and more particularly from 6 to 10% by weight of charges relative to total weight of the composition.

ADDITIVES A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field concerned, for example chosen from gums and elastomers, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, dispersing agents, polymers and the like. semi-crystalline, film-forming and film-forming aids, hydrophilic and lipophilic gelling agents, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, UV-protective agents, active ingredients cosmetics, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen protectors, and mixtures thereof.

It falls within the routine operations of those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and quantity of the additives present in the compositions according to the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties and makeup performances, such as the intensity of the color, the brilliance and remanence of the gloss, the homogeneity, the mechanical and thermal stability of these are not affected. A composition of the invention can be obtained by any preparation method known to those skilled in the art.

SHINE, HOLD, MIGRATION, STABILITY Gloss, hold and migration are evaluated in vivo using a SEI-M-02232-CHRO-0 Chromosphere as described in Application FR 2 829 344. The holding over time of a cosmetic composition reflects its ability to withstand mechanical or physical stresses, such as friction or stretching of the makeup surface. The behavior of a composition of the invention over time can be evaluated by different protocols, for example in vivo using a SEI-M-02232-CHRO-0 Chromosphere. The evaluation of the outfit is as follows: the outfit is evaluated after a series of tests consisting of two kisses on a tissue, drink a hot drink and a cold drink and eat two bites of a sandwich and an apple. The gloss is evaluated in vivo just after application of the formula and then one hour after application. The migration is evaluated one hour after the application. The formulations are applied to the lips of a panel of seven subjects with thick, clear lips and measurements are made using the Chromosphere. Alternatively, the properties mentioned above can also be evaluated in vitro according to any protocol known to those skilled in the art. The stability of a composition of the invention with respect to exudation (or syneresis) can be evaluated by placing the composition in an oven for eight weeks at 25 ° C. In this test, the physical appearance of the sample is controlled at the moment of its positioning in the chamber. The sample is then monitored at 24 hours, three days, one week, two weeks, four weeks, and eight weeks. Stability may further be assessed by repeating the eight week oven cycle at 4 ° C, 37 ° C, 47 ° C, 50 ° C, and under freeze / thaw conditions. At the end of the stability test considered, the sample is checked in terms of its physical appearance, its shape (it is examined whether it bends, if the composition is in the form of a stick or a stick of lipstick, or wrinkles), phase separation, fusion, or syneresis (exudation), or recrystallization of waxes on the surface. For the purposes of the present invention, the terms syneresis or exudation are used interchangeably and correspond to the appearance of droplets on the surface of the composition which are visible to the naked eye.

The present invention will be better understood by means of the following examples. These are presented by way of illustration of the invention and should not be interpreted as limiting the scope thereof.

EXAMPLES

Examples 1A and 1B: Formulations of solid lipsticks COMPOUNDS Example 1A Example 1B (Invention) Comparative (% by weight) (% by weight) 1,3,5-trimethyl 1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyl 42, 65 42.65 trisiloxane (Dow Corning PH-1555 HRI) Polybutene (INEOS Indol L-14) 10 Tridecyl Trimellitate (LIPO Liponate TDTM 2.2 2.2 CHEMICALS) Octyldodecyl / PPG-3 myristyl ether dimer 2 2,2 2,2-Dilinoleate (Liquiwax Polyefa ARCH PERSONAL CARE OR) Copolymer pentaerythritol 20 / benzoic acid 4 / isostearic acid 56 / isophthalic acid 20 (as prepared in Example 2 of US Pat. A-1,870,082) (Chimex PAW Mexomer) C18 and C18-C22-dihydric acid diester wax as prepared in Table 1 p. 12 of application WO 2006/097334 C20-40 alkyl stearate (Kester WAX K82H from - 2 KOSTER KEUNEN) Microcrystalline wax (Microwax HW from 2 2 PARAMELT) Polyethylene wax (PERFORMALENE 400 from 3 3 NEW PHASE TECHNOLOGY) Copolymer from pentaerythritol 16 8 / benzoic acid 1.8 / 65.5 stearic acid / isophthalic acid 15.9 (as prepared in Example 6 of EP-A-1,870,082) (Chimex PBA Mexomer) Polyvinyl laurate (MEXOMERE PP from CHIMEX) 6 6 Titanium dioxide 0.2 0.2 BLUE 1 LAKE 0.2 0.2 Brown iron oxides, yellow (75/25) (CI: 77491 + 0.95 0.95 77492) YELLOW 5 LAKE 0.85 0.85 RED 7 0.45 0.45 Mica-Titanium oxide (59/41) (CI: 77019 + 77891) 2.8 2.8 Mica-Titanium oxide (52 / 48) (CI: 77019 + 77891) 1 1 Mica-Titanium oxide (60/40) (CI: 77019 + 77891) 0.5 0.5 TOTAL: 100 100 Operating protocol: The pigments are ground in the oily phase with The waxes and the remainder of the formula are melted at 95-98 ° C in a Rayneri stirred pan except The pigmentary ground material and the pearlescent agents are added with stirring and homogenized for 15 to 20 minutes. The mixture is cast in a mold at 42 ° C when the paste has reached 95-98 ° C and then allowed to cool.

Results: From an evaluation of formulas IA and IB by beauticians in terms of cosmetic properties and result of makeup after application in vivo on 6 women in half-lips, the application being made according to the gesture lipstick in stick, we expect for these compositions a good level of brilliance and holding of the shine. For the composition according to the invention IA is expected to obtain a deposit more homogeneous than the comparative composition. In addition, composition 1B migrates more rapidly than composition 1A. In addition, the composition according to the invention is expected to have a much better thermal stability than that of Comparative Example 1B, in particular, if the compositions are placed at 47 ° C. for 8 weeks. For Comparative Example 1B a poor stability of the stick is observed, and in particular, exsudation of the oils is observed. It is expected that the composition IA according to the invention remains stable.

Examples 2A and 2B: Solid Lipstick Formulas: COMPOUNDS Example 2A Example 2B Comparative Invention (%) (%) BHT 0.06 0.06 Lauroyl lysine 1.24 1.24 Kaolin (Clylin C100 from ENGELHARD) 1, 76 1.76 Yellow 5 Lake 0.85 0.85 Iron oxide (and) iron oxides 0.95 0.95 Blue 1 Lake 0.20 0.20 Red 7 0.45 0.45 Titanium dioxide 0, 0.20 C 10 -C 18 dicarboxylic acid diester wax and C 18 -C 22 alcohols as prepared in Table 1 p. 12 of the application WO 2006/097334 Sorbitan oleate (SPAN 80 V from Croda) 7.30 7.30 Diisostearyl malate 29.83 29.83 Isodecyl neopentanoate (DUB VCI 15.29 15.29 10 from Stearinerie dubois) Mica (and) titanium dioxide 0.50 0.50 Mica (and) titanium dioxide 1 1 Mica (and) titanium dioxide 2.80 2.80 Polyvinyl laurate (MEXOMER PP 2.52 2.52 from CHIMEX) Stearate Allyl / Vinyl Acetate 0.77 0.77 copolymer (Chimex PQ Mexomer) Polybutene (INEOS INDOPOL H 1500 7 7) VinylPyrrolidone / copolymer 7.45 7.45 hexadecene (GANEX V216 from ISP) Copolymer acrylate ( POLYTRAP 1 1 6603 ADSORBER of AMCOL) Polyethylene (PERFORMALENE 500- 6.33 6.33 L of NEW PHASE TECHNOLOGY) Polyethylene (PERFORMALENE 400 _ 2.10 of NEW PHASE TECHNOLOGY) Phenyltrimethicone (DC556 Cosmetic 2.80 2.80 grade DOW CORNING fluid) Trimethylsiloxyphenyldimethicone 7.60 7.60 (BELSIL PDM 1000 from WACKER) TOTAL: 100 100 The compositions 2A and 2B were prepared according to the same protocol as that described previously. Results: From an evaluation of formulas 2A and 2B by beauticians in terms of cosmetic properties and makeup result after application in vivo on 6 women in half-lips, the application being made according to the gesture lipstick in stick, we expect for these compositions a good level of brilliance and holding of the shine.

For the composition according to the invention IA is expected to obtain a deposit more homogeneous than the comparative composition. In addition, composition 1B migrates more rapidly than composition 1A. In addition, the composition according to the invention is expected to have a much better thermal stability than that of Comparative Example 1B, in particular, if the compositions are placed at 47 ° C. for 8 weeks. For Comparative Example 1B a poor stability of the stick is observed, and in particular, exsudation of the oils is observed. It is expected that the composition IA according to the invention remains stable.

From an evaluation of formulas 2A and 2B by beauticians in terms of cosmetic properties and result of makeup after application in vivo on 6 women in half-lips, the application being made according to the gesture lipstick stick, we expect for these compositions a good level of gloss and brightness hold. For the composition 2A according to the invention, it is expected to obtain a deposit having a better level of gloss than the comparative composition 2B, as well as a good hold of the gloss. In addition, it is expected for the composition according to the invention 2A a much better thermal stability than that of Comparative Example 2B, in particular, if the compositions are placed at 47 ° C for 8 weeks. For Comparative Example 2B, a poor stability of the stick is observed, and in particular, there is an exudation of the oils, and the stick has a tendency to soften. It is expected that the composition 2A according to the invention remains stable.

Claims (17)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one phenyl silicone oil and at least one wax, said wax comprising at least one C12-C1g dicarboxylic acid diester and C16-C22 alcohols. 2. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein said wax has a melting point ranging from 73 ° C to 76 ° C. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said wax comprises at least one C18 dicarboxylic acid diester, preferably linear and saturated, and C18-C22 alcohols, preferably linear and saturated. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said wax comprises a mixture of distearyl octadecandioate, dibenyl octadecandioate and diketoxyl octadecandioate. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said wax is present in a content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, in particular from 1.5 to 16% by weight, and more particularly from 2 to 10%. by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the said wax and the said phenyl silicone oil are present in a diester wax-weight ratio of a C 12 -C 18 dicarboxylic acid and of C 16 -C 22 alcohols / variant oil. from 1:20 to 1: 1, in particular from 1:10 to 1: 3, and more particularly from 1:15 to 1: 8 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the phenyl silicone oil is chosen from oils of formula (VII), and mixtures thereof: ## STR1 ## in which which: R1 to R6, independently of one another, are linear or cyclic linear or branched C 1 -C 30 hydrocarbon radicals, m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers inclusive; between 0 and 100, provided that the sum 'n + m' is between 1 and 100. 8. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein R1 to R6, independently of each other, represent a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, C1-C30, especially C1-C12, and in particular a methyl, ethyl radical. , propyl or butyl, and in that m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 and / or p = 0 or 1. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the phenyl silicone oil is present in a content ranging from 1 to 70%, in particular from 2 to 60% by weight and more particularly from 5 to 50% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition comprising at least one additional wax different from said C12-C18 dicarboxylic acid diester wax and C16-C22 alcohols preferably chosen from ester waxes, waxes and the like. polyethylene, microcrystalline waxes, and mixtures thereof. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition further comprising at least one pasty compound chosen from polyvinyl laurate, hydrogenated vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition comprising at least one glossy oil of high molecular weight ranging from 650 to 10,000 g / mol. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition further comprising at least one dyestuff and / or a filler. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition comprising less than 3%, or better still, less than 1% water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably being completely anhydrous. 49 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition being a lipstick. 16. A method of making up and / or care of keratinous materials comprising at least one step of applying to said keratinous material at least one layer of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 15. 17. Use in a cosmetic composition of at least one mixture comprising at least one phenyl silicone oil and at least one wax comprising at least one C12-C1g dicarboxylic acid diester and C16-C22 alcohols to give said composition improved stability and gloss.