FR2954157A1 - Method for makeup, and/or care of skin and/or lips, comprises depositing, on skin and/or lips, at least one layer of composition comprising silicone resin and volatile oil in medium, and artificially accelerating the drying of the deposit - Google Patents

Abstract

Method for makeup, and/or care of skin and/or lips, comprises: (i) depositing, on the skin and/or lips, at least one layer of a cosmetic composition (I) comprising, in a medium, at least 35 wt.% of MQ-T silicone resin and at least 15 wt.% of volatile oil; and (ii) artificially accelerating the drying of the deposit, simultaneously with or after the application of such deposit by exposure to a blow air temperature of 35-45[deg] C. An independent claim is included for a kit or set of packaging and application, comprising a reservoir containing a composition, a device for applying the composition (I) on the skin or lips, and means for artificially accelerating the drying of the deposit formed in the application of the composition on the skin or the lips, particularly suitable to provide a blow of air temperature of 45[deg] C.

Description

The present invention relates to a process for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or the lips. It also relates to a kit or set of packaging and corresponding application. In general, the cosmetic compositions must impart an aesthetic effect when applied to the skin and the lips, and maintain this aesthetic effect over time. In particular, they must withstand the various external factors that may modify their aesthetic effect, such as sweat or saliva. In particular, cosmetic products, and especially lipsticks, must not migrate into wrinkles or fine lines, or transfer to a fabric. They must also be pleasant to apply and their deposit provide a feeling of comfort over time, while maintaining satisfactory aesthetic properties. In order to limit the color transfer, it is known to incorporate in the lipstick compositions silicone film-forming resins of MQ-T silicone resins type, such as those described in the patent application WO 2005/075542. These silicone resins also make it possible to give the compositions good color-holding properties. However, when they are present at a high content (at least 35% by weight) in a composition, it may then have sticky problems when it is applied to the skin or the lips. In addition, these silicone resins are generally formulated in combination with volatile oils so as to promote during the evaporation thereof during drying of the deposit, the formation of a coating on the surface of the skin or lips. The evaporation of the volatile oils leads, after application of the corresponding cosmetic composition to the skin or the lips, to a decrease in the liquid fraction and to a concentration of the deposit.

However, if the silicone resins actually provide the compositions with improved holding properties, the presence of a high content of volatile oils may be detrimental to the makeup comfort for the users. Indeed, a high content of volatile oils increases the drying time required for the formation of the film on the lips and can generate, on application, stickiness sensations, and during drying, a feeling of tightness, which are of course not desirable.

As a result, the currently available lipstick compositions are limited in view of the content of silicone resins that they can incorporate, for the sake of comfort. Therefore, there is a need to have a mode of makeup of the skin and / or lips, compatible with the implementation of significant amounts of silicone resins (s) MQ-T, whose deposit on the skin or the lips is comfortable (film formed sufficiently flexible), shiny and has good color-fasting properties, while being free from the problems of discomfort mentioned above. More specifically, the present invention relates, in one of its aspects, to a method of makeup and / or care of the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least the steps of: i) depositing on the skin and or the lips of at least one layer of a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least 35% by weight of silicone resin (s) MQ-T relative to the total weight of said composition and at least 15% by weight of volatile oil (s) relative to the total weight of said composition; and ii) artificially accelerating the drying of the deposition performed in step i), simultaneously or after its application by exposing said deposit to a breath of air having a temperature ranging from 35 to 45 ° C. Surprisingly, and as can be seen from the examples presented hereinafter, the inventors have discovered that the acceleration of the drying of a deposit of a make-up composition formed according to the process of the present invention makes it possible to improve significantly the quality of the resulting film, particularly in terms of homogeneity and strength of the film, compared to a film of the same nature, dried in the open air. In the context of the present invention, the term "good holding" film is intended to mean a film which does not disintegrate, in particular, does not crumble, does not spread around the lips, and which retains good intensity of the original makeup color. In particular, the holding of the color of the makeup obtained can be measured according to the protocol described below. For the purposes of the invention, the drying time refers to the time required for the coating layer to form a dry film. In the context of the present invention, the drying time considered is less than or equal to 2 minutes, which is the maximum acceptable time for the user of a makeup product. From this time of 2 minutes, the film must be dry and satisfying the properties mentioned above, and in particular in terms of color retention. For the purposes of the invention, the term "artificially drying" denotes any drying induced voluntarily by an auxiliary device, as subsequently developed. This means of accelerating drying is therefore distinct from exposure to a natural wind. A particular advantage of the invention is to allow, with respect to certain compositions (in particular depending on the nature and the content of the ingredients forming in said compositions), the reduction of the drying time to a duration of less than 2. minutes. For example, for certain compositions according to the invention, an optimal holding value can be obtained after only 1 minute, or even 30 seconds of drying according to the invention. The temperature of the air blast according to the invention is that perceived at the level of the skin or the lips.

According to a particular embodiment, this air blast in contact with the lips or the skin may have a temperature ranging from 36 ° C to 41 ° C. A composition used according to the invention may be solid or fluid. In particular, a composition used according to the invention may be in the form of a stick or lip gloss.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention may be in the form of cast products or sticks or cup. The term "solid" characterizes the state of the composition at 20 ° C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). According to a second embodiment, the composition according to the invention is solid, and preferably has, at 20 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), a hardness greater than 30 Nm ', preferably greater than 40 nm. According to this embodiment, the composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one solid fatty substance, such as a wax or a pasty fatty substance.

Protocol for Measuring Hardness The hardness of the composition is measured according to the following protocol: The lipstick stick is stored at 20 ° C. for 24 hours before measuring the hardness.

The hardness can be measured at 20 ° C. by the so-called "butter-cutting thread" method, which consists in transversely cutting a stick of product, preferably cylindrical of revolution, with the aid of a rigid tungsten wire. 250 μm diameter by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm / min.

The hardness of the samples of compositions of the invention, expressed in Nm ', is measured by means of a DFGS2 dynamometer marketed by the company INDELCOCHATILLON. The measurement is repeated three times and averaged. The average of the three values read using the dynamometer mentioned above, denoted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted to Newton and divided by L which represents the highest dimension traversed by the wire. In the case of a cylindrical stick, L is equal to the diameter (in meters). The hardness is converted to Nr -1 by the following equation: (Yx 10-3 x 9.8) / L For a measurement at a different temperature, the stick is kept at this new temperature for 24 hours before the measurement. According to this measurement method, the composition according to the invention has a hardness at 20 ° C greater than or equal to 30 Nm ', preferably greater than 40 Nm', preferably greater than 50 Nm '.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention has in particular a hardness at 20 ° C of less than 500 Nm ', especially less than 400 Nm', preferably less than 300 Nm '. In particular, a composition whose hardness is greater than 30 Nr -1 is a so-called "solid" composition at 20 ° C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in liquid form. According to this embodiment, it may be in the form of a gloss (liquid lipstick) for example, even more particularly called "liquid gloss" or "lip gloss". According to another aspect, the present invention relates to a kit or set of packaging and application, comprising a reservoir containing a composition as defined above, a device for applying said composition to the skin or the lips, and a means for artificially accelerating the drying of the deposit formed in the application of said composition on the skin or the lips and in particular able to provide a breath of air having a temperature ranging from 35 to 45 ° C. The invention will be better understood on reading the following detailed description of exemplary embodiments of the invention and on examining the appended drawing, in which: FIG. 1 is a diagrammatic perspective view; , a packaging and application assembly according to the invention, adapted for a composition formulated in the form of a stick; FIG. 2 is a diagrammatic perspective view of another packaging and application unit according to the invention suitable for a composition formulated in the form of a gloss. As can be seen from the examples which follow, the process, as well as the kit and set of application and packaging according to the invention, are particularly advantageous for accessing skin-coating films or lips with 15 cosmetic properties and more particularly a higher color resistance than that manifested by a film formed on the skin or lips, from the same composition but simply left to dry in the ambient air. Moreover, the drying time required for this film in a single environment is generally excessive because it is much longer than 2 minutes, and therefore unacceptable for the consumer. Measurement protocol of the color fastness The color retention index of the deposit obtained with the composition used according to the invention is advantageously determined according to the measurement protocol described hereinafter. A support (rectangle 40 mm × 70 mm) made of an acrylic coating (hypoallergenic acrylic adhesive on a polyethylene film sold under the name BLENDERME No. FHSO00-55113 by the company 3M Santé) is prepared on a layer of foam. adhesive polyethylene on the opposite side to that on which is fixed the plaster (layer of foam sold under the name RE40X70EP3 30 JOINT TECHNIQUE LYONNAIS IND). The L * Oa * Ob * 0 color of the support, on the acrylic coating side, is measured using a MINOLTA CR 300 colorimeter.

The support thus prepared is preheated on a heating plate maintained at a temperature of 40 ° C. so that the surface of the support is maintained at a temperature of 33 ° C. ± 1 ° C. While leaving the support on the hot plate, the composition is applied to the entire non-adhesive surface of the support (i.e., on the surface of the acrylic coating) by spreading it with a brush to obtain a deposit of the composition of about 15 microns and then allowed to dry for 2 minutes. After drying, the color L * a * b * of the film thus obtained is measured. The color difference DE1 is then determined between the color of the film with respect to the color of the bare substrate by the following relationship.

DE1 = (L * -L. *) 2 + (a * - 0012 + (b * - bo * z The support is then adhered by its adhesive side (adhesive side of the foam layer) on an anvil of a diameter 20 mm and provided with a thread, a specimen of the support / deposit assembly is then cut with a punch of a diameter of 18 mm, the anvil is then screwed on a press (MANUAL STATIF IMADA SV-2 from the company SOMECO) equipped with a dynamometer (IMADA DPS-20 from SOMECO) A white paper for copier 80g / m is placed on the base of the press then The specimen placed on the paper web box is pressurized at a pressure of about 300 g / cm 2 for 30 seconds, then the press is lifted and the specimen is placed again immediately after the second stroke (ie next to the box), a pressure of approximately 300 g / cm 2 is again performed and the paper is moved rectilinearly from the contact made with a speed of 1 c m / s, over the entire length of the strip so that the test piece passes through the water and oil deposits. After removal of the test piece, a portion of the deposit was transferred to the paper. The color L * ', a *', b * 'of the deposit remained on the specimen. The color difference DE2 is then determined between the color of the deposit remaining on the specimen relative to the color of the bare support by the following relation. DE2 = L * '- Lo * 2 *' - 0 *) 2 ± (b * '- b0) 2 a The strength index of the composition, expressed as a percentage, is equal to the ratio: 100X DE2 / DE1 The measure can be performed on two supports in succession and the holding value 5 corresponds to the average of the two measurements obtained with the two supports.

COSMETIC COMPOSITION Silicone resin MQ-T As previously stated, a cosmetic composition to be applied according to step i) of the process according to the invention comprises one or more silicone resin (s) MQ-T at least 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. In particular, the silicone resin (s) MQ-T may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 35% to 80% by weight, and more particularly from 40% to 70% by weight. relative to the total weight of said composition. Siloxane resins of MQ-T type, also called MQ-T silicone resins, which can be used according to the invention preferably comprise the units: (i) (R13SiO1 / 2) a (iii) (R3SiO3 / 2) c and (iv) (5104/2) d with R1 and R3 independently representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, R1 being preferably a methyl group and R3 being preferably a propyl group, a being between 0, 0.5 and 0.5, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4, where c is greater than zero, preferably between 0.15 and 0.4, d being between 0.05 and 0.6, preferably between 0.2 and 0.6, or between 0.2 and 0.55, a + c + d = 1, with the proviso that more than 40 mol% of the R 3 groups of the siloxane resin are propyl groups. These resins are called MQ-T propyl silicone resins. In a more general way, the resins used according to the invention are in particular those described in the application WO 2005/075542.

The MQ-T propyl resin according to the invention comprises: (i) (R13SiO1 / 2) a (ii) (R22SiO2 / 2) b (iii) (R3SiO3 / 2) c and (iv) (S104 / 2) d which are known from the prior art and which respectively correspond to units M, D, T and Q. The quantity of each unit present in the MQ-T propyl resin can be expressed in molar fraction (ie a, b, c or d) the total number of moles of all M, D, T and Q units present in the MQ-T propyl resin. The value of a (mole fraction of M units) is between 0.05 and 0.5, or alternatively between 0.15 and 0.4. The value of b (molar fraction of units D) is between 0 and 0.3, or alternatively between 0 and 0.1, or alternatively between 0 and 0.05. Thus, the MQ-T propyl resin according to the invention may be free from unit D, or alternatively may comprise up to 0.3 mole fraction of units D. Preferably, the MQ-T propyl resin according to The value of c (molar fraction of T units) is greater than 0, or alternatively between 0.05 and 0.65, or alternatively between 0.4 and 0.65. The value of d (molar fraction of units Q) is between 0.05 and 0.6, or alternatively between 0.2 and 0.6, or alternatively between 0.2 and 0.55. The propylene MQ-T resin according to the invention is characterized in that at least 40 mol%, preferably at least 50 mol%, preferably at least 90 mol% of the R 3 alkyl groups of the T units are propyl groups.

The radicals R ', R2, R3 of the units of the MQ-T propyl resin independently represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group. The alkyl groups can in particular be chosen from methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl and octyl groups. Preferably, the alkyl group is a methyl group or a propyl group.

The aryl groups may be chosen from phenyl, naphthyl, benzyl, tolyl, xylyl, xenyl, methylphenyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenyl-2-methylethyl, chlorophenyl, bromophenyl and fluorophenyl groups, the aryl group being preferably a phenyl group.

In the present invention, the term "carbinol group" means any group containing at least one hydroxyl radical bonded to a carbon (COH). The carbinol groups may thus contain more than one COH radical, such as, for example, OH. If the carbinol group is free of aryl groups, it contains at least 3 carbon atoms. If the carbinol group comprises at least one aryl group, it comprises at least 6 carbon atoms. As examples of carbinol group free from aryl groups containing at least 3 carbon atoms, mention may be made of the groups of formula R 4 OH in which R 4 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical containing at least 3 carbon atoms or a divalent hydrocarbonoxy radical containing at least 3 carbon atoms. carbon atoms. Examples of the group R4 include alkylene radicals such as - (CH2) x-, the value of x being from 3 to 10, -CH2CH (CH3) -, - CH2CH (CH3) CH2-, -CH2CH2CH ( CH2CH3) CH2CH2CH2- and -OCH (CH3) (CH2) X, the value of x being from 1 to 10. Examples of carbinol groups having aryl groups having at least 6 carbon atoms include the following groups: wherein R5 is an arylene radical such that - (CH2) xC6H4-, x has a value between 0 and 10, -CH2CH (CH3) (CH2) XC6H4-, x having a value between 0 and 10, - (CH2) xC6H4 (CH2) x-, x having a value of from 1 to 10. The carbinol groups having aryl groups generally have from 6 to 14 atoms.

The term "amino group" according to the invention is understood to mean, in particular, groups of formula ## STR1 ## where R 6 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having at least 2 carbon atoms and R 7 represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having at least 2 carbon atoms. The R 6 group generally represents an alkylene radical having 2 to 20 carbon atoms. Examples of the group R 6 include ethylene, propylene, -CH 2 CHCH 3 -, butylene, -CH 2 CH (CH 3) CH 2 -, pentamethylene, hexamethylene, 3-ethyl-hexamethylene, octamethylene and decamethylene.

The group R7 generally represents an alkylene radical having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms. Examples of groups R7 include ethylene, propylene, -CH 2 CHCH 3 -, butylene, -CH 2 CH (CH 3) CH 2 -, pentamethylene, hexamethylene, 3-ethyl-hexamethylene, octamethylene and decamethylene. The amino groups are generally -CH2CH2CH2NH2 and -CH2 (CH3) CHCH2 (H) NCH3, -CH2CH2NHCH2CH2NH2, -CH2CH2NH2, -CH2CH2NHCH3, -CH2CH2CH2CH2NH2, - (CH2CH2NH) 3H and -CH2CH2NHCH2CH2NHC4H9.

Preferably, R 'is methyl, R2 is methyl or phenyl, and R3 is propyl. Preferably, the MQ-T propyl resin according to the invention is free of D unit, and R 'represents a methyl group, and R3 represents a propyl group.

The siloxane units D, T or Q of the MQ-T propyl resin according to the invention may comprise hydroxyl groups (-OH) and / or alkoxy groups. Such siloxane units comprising hydroxy and / or alkoxy groups are commonly found in siloxane resins having the general formula R 1 SiO (4-yl) 2 These hydroxy groups typically result from the reaction of a hydrolysable group on the siloxane unit with water. the alkoxy groups result from incomplete hydrolysis when alkoxysilane precursors are used or result from the exchange of alcohol with hydrolysable groups, preferably the total amount by weight of OH groups present in the MQ-T propyl resin is about 3%, preferably 2%, preferably 1.5%, preferably, the total amount by weight of alkoxy groups present in the MQ-T propyl resin is less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably less than or 10% by weight.

There are no restrictions on the molecular weight of MQ-T propyl siloxane resins, but generally the number average molecular weight (MN) is between 3,000 and 10,000, in particular between 5,000 and 8,000. Propyl MQ-T resins suitable for use as component a) can be prepared according to the methods known in the art for preparing siloxane resins of the general formula R 2 SiO (4-yy) where R is an alkyl group and is less than 1.8 Alternatively, the MQ-T propyl resins can be prepared according to the methods described below.

The MQ-T propyl resins according to the invention are illustrated by the MQ-propyl resins comprising the following units: ((CH 3) 3 SiO 1/2) a (R 3 SiO 3/2) c where R 3 = CH 3 CH 2 CH 2 -, and 15 (SiO 4 / 2) d,

or the following units ((CH3) 3S O1 / 2) a ((CH3) 2SiO2 / 2) b (R3SiO3 / 2) c where R3 = CH3CH2CH2-, and (SiO4 / 2) d,

or the following units ((CH3) 3S O1 / 2) a ((CH3) 2SiO2 / 2) b, ((CH3) (C6H5) SiO2 / 2) b '(R3SiO3 / 2) c where R3 = CH3CH2CH2-, and (SiO4 / 2) d,

or the following units ((CH3) 3S O1 / 2) a ((CH3) 2SiO2 / 2) b (R3SiO3 / 2) c where R3 = CH3CH2CH2-, and (C6HSSiO3 / 2) c (SiO4 / 2) d, Or the following units: ((CH3) 3S O1 / 2) a ((CH3) 2SiO2 / 2) b, ((CH3) (C6H5) SiO2 / 2) b '(R3SiO3 / 2) c where R3 = CH3CH2CH2- and (C6HSSiO3 / 2) c (SiO4 / 2) d; where aa total value in the resin of between 0.05 and 0.5, the sum b + b 'has a total value in the resin of between 0 and 0.3, ca a total value in the resin of between 0, 05 and 0.65, and da total value in the resin of between 0.05 and 0.6.

The siloxane resins which can be used according to the invention can be obtained by a process comprising the reaction between: A) an MQ resin comprising at least 80 mol% of units (R 13 SiO 1/2) a and (SiO 4/2) of R 1 representing an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, a and d being greater than zero, the ratio a / d being between 0.5 and 1.5; and B) a propyl resin T comprising at least 80 mol% of units (R 3 SiO 3/2) c, R 3 representing an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group , c being greater than zero, provided that at least 40 mol% of the R3 groups are propyl groups. where the mass ratio A / B is between 95: 5 and 15:85.

Component A) is a MQ resin comprising at least 80 mol% of (R13SiOi / 2) a and (SiO4 / 2) units, where R1 is as defined above, ie represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group, a and d being greater than zero, and the ratio a / d being between 0.5 and 1.5. The MQ resins usable as component A), and their method of preparation, are known from the prior art. For example, U.S. Patent 2,814,601 to Currie et al., Dated November 26, 1957, discloses a process for making MQ resins by converting a water-soluble silicate to a silicic acid monomer or an acid oligomer. silicic acid using an acid. Once the appropriate polymerization has been carried out, trimethylchlorosilane ends are introduced to obtain the MQ resin. Another process for the preparation of MQ resins is described in Goodwin, US Pat. No. 2,857,356, dated Oct. 21, 1958. Goodwin discloses a method for manufacturing a MQ resin by cohydrolysis of a silicate blend. alkyl and an organopolysiloxane trialkylsilane hydrolysable with water. MQ resins suitable as component A) in the present invention may contain D and T units, provided that at least 80 mole% or even 90 mole percent of the total siloxane units are M and Q units. The MQ resins may also contain hydroxy groups. The MQ resins may thus comprise hydroxyl groups in a total amount by weight of between 2 and 10%, preferably between 2 and 5%. The MQ resins may also comprise additional ends, residual hydroxyl groups being for this reason reacted with the groups M.

Component B) is a propyl T resin comprising at least 80 mol% of units (R 3 SiO 3 12) c, R 3 being as defined above, ie representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, a group aryl, a carbinol group or an amino group, c being greater than 0, with the proviso that at least 40 mol% of the R3 groups are propyl groups. Preferably, the propyl T resin according to the invention is a silsesquioxane resin. Silsesquioxane resins are well known in the state of the art and are generally obtained by hydrolysis of an organosilane comprising three hydrolysable groups, such as halogen or alkoxy groups, present in the molecule. Component B) can thus be obtained by hydrolysis of propyltrimethoxysilane, propyltriethoxysilane or propyltripropoxysilane, or by cohydrolysis of the abovementioned propylalkoxysilanes with various alkoxysilanes. Examples of such alkoxysilanes include methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, methyltriisopropoxysilane, dimethyldimethoxysilane and phenyltrimethoxysilane. Propyltrichlorosilane may also be hydrolyzed alone, or in the presence of alcohol. In this case, the cohydrolysis can be carried out by adding methyltrichlorosilane, dimethyldichlorosilane, phenyltrichlorosilane or similar chlorosilanes and methyltrimethoxysilane, methyltriethoxysilane, methyltriisopropoxysilane or similar methylalkoxysilanes. Suitable alcohols for this purpose include methanol, ethanol, n-propyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, butanol, methoxy ethanol, ethoxy ethanol or similar alcohols. Examples of hydrocarbon type solvents that may be used include toluene, xylene or similar aromatic hydrocarbons; hexane, heptane, isooctane or linear or partially branched saturated hydrocarbons; as well as cyclohexane or similar aliphatic hydrocarbons.

The propyl T resins as component B) according to the invention may contain M, D and Q units, provided that at least 80 mol%, or even 90 mol% of the total siloxane units are T units. Propyl T resins may also contain hydroxy groups. Preferably, the propyl T resins comprise between 3 and 8% by weight of hydroxy groups.

A polyorganosiloxane may also be added to the process according to the invention as component C).

The polyorganosiloxanes useful as component C) according to the invention comprise R22SiO212 or R3SiO312 units. The polyorganosiloxane may be added to introduce different D and T units into the MQ-T propyl resins to modify the properties of the resulting resins. The structure or formula of the polyorganosiloxane is not limiting, provided that said polyorganosiloxane comprises a measurable amount of R22SiO212 or R3SiO312 units, and that the total amount of polyorganosiloxane added to the reaction between A) and B) does not result. not more than 50 mol% of D or T units in the reaction mixture. The polyorganosiloxane may include combinations of M, D, T and Q units, provided that at least the D or T units are present. Thus, the polyorganosiloxane may be chosen from the fluid silicones, gums, or resins known from the prior art and comprising D or T units, or mixtures thereof. D units typically include methyl or phenyl groups or mixtures thereof as R2 groups. T units typically include methyl or phenyl groups or mixtures thereof as R3 groups. The polyorganosiloxane may be a linear fluid polydiorganosiloxane having a viscosity of between 10 and 1000 cS (mm 2 / s). The fluid polydiorganosiloxane may be a polydimethylsiloxane, or a polymethylphenylsiloxane. The organosiloxane po can also be an organosilsesquioxane resin. The organosilsesquioxane resin is typically a methylsilsesquioxane resin or a phenylsilsesquioxane resin.

Components A), B) and optionally C) can react by any known method of the prior art to act on the units M, D, T and Q. Preferably however, the components A), B) and optionally C) react by a condensation reaction in the presence of catalyst. The MQ resin is typically present in an aromatic hydrocarbon solvent or siloxane. Condensation reaction catalysts that can be used include metal hydroxides such as potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide; metal salts such as silanolates, carboxylates and carbonates; amines; titanates such as tetrabutyl titanate; and their mixtures.

Typically the reaction between components A), B) and optionally C) is carried out by heating the reaction mixture at temperatures ranging from 50 to 140 ° C, preferably from 100 to 140 ° C. The reaction can take place in a semi-continuous, continuous or batch process.

The weight ratio A / B in the reaction is from 95: 5 to 15:85, preferably from 95: 5 to 20:80, preferably from 90:10 to 20:80. Preferably, the mass ratio A / B is 85:15, or 50:50, or 30:70, or 95: 5. Preferably, the mass ratio A / B is equal to 30:70. The amount of component C) can vary, but with the proviso that it results in a content of less than 30 mol% of additional units D or T, based on the total molar amount of siloxane units of the reaction mixture.

Examples of silicone resins that can be used according to the invention are described in the examples below. Volatile oils As stated above, a composition to be applied according to stage i) of the process according to the invention comprises one or more volatile oil (s) at a rate of at least 15% by weight relative to the total weight. of said composition.

In particular, the volatile oil (s) may be present in a composition to be applied according to the invention in a content ranging from 15% to 50% by weight, and more particularly from 20% to 40% by weight. relative to the total weight of said composition. The composition to be applied according to the invention may be in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil or oil-in-water dispersion.

It can be solid, liquid or pasty. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition is in liquid form. By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). ). As an example of a volatile oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of: volatile hydrocarbon oils chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C8-C16 alkanes such as isoalkanes C 8 -C 16 of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the names Isopar or permetyl derivatives, branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell or by Shell, may also be used; volatile silicones, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8 10-6 m 2 / s), and in particular having 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of volatile alkyltrisiloxane linear oils of general formula (I): ## STR1 ## where R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and one or more hydrogen atoms of which may be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom. Among the oils of general formula (I), mention may be made of: 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, 3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5 , 5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, and 3-ethyl-1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane, corresponding to the oils of formula (I) for which R is respectively a butyl group, a group propyl or an ethyl group. Fluorinated volatile oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane and mixtures thereof can also be used.

It is also possible to use a mixture of the above-mentioned oils. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the (the) oil (s) is / are chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 branched alkanes. In particular, the volatile oil may be isododecane.

PHYSIOLOGICALLY ACCEPTABLE MEDIUM A composition of the invention must be cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable, namely to contain a physiologically acceptable medium that is non-toxic and may be applied to the skin or the lips of human beings. By 3 CH 3 / cosmetically acceptable is meant in the sense of the invention a composition of appearance, smell and pleasant touch. This physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged. More precisely, the nature and the content of the various compounds are adapted according to, for example, that the composition will be formulated in the form of a stick or lip gloss. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 3%, or better, less than 1% water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferably, the composition is completely anhydrous. By anhydrous is meant in particular that the water is preferably not deliberately added to the composition but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in the composition.

Crude Phase The composition to be applied according to the process of the present invention may comprise, in addition to the volatile oils as described above, one or more "non-volatile oil (s)". For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa.

These oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof. Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include: hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have various chain lengths of C4 to C24, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, pumpkin, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passiflora, muscat rose; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane, and mixtures thereof; synthetic esters, such as oils of formula R1000R2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially a branched hydrocarbon chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms at provided that R1 + R2 is 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; at room temperature liquids with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol or 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol; higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; - carbonates, - acetals, - citrates, - and their mixtures.

The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates. The fluorinated oils that can be used in the invention are in particular fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers and fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847752. The non-volatile oils may be present in a composition used according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 50% by weight, especially from 1% to 40% by weight, and in particular from 3% to 35% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of said composition. According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of non-volatile oil.

Glossary oils According to a particular embodiment, a composition considered according to the invention may comprise at least one glossy oil. The glossy oil is preferably an oil of high molecular weight ranging from 650 to 10,000 g / mol, and preferably from 750 to 7500 g / mol. The glossy oils are preferably non-volatile.

The gloss oil preferably has a high molecular weight of from 650 to 10,000 g / mol, and preferably from 750 to 7500 g / mol. The glossy oil can be chosen from: lipophilic polymers such as: polybutylenes such as INDOPOL H-100 (of molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), INDOPOL H-300 (MW = 1340) g / mol), INDOPOL H-1500 (MW = 2160 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by AMOCO, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as PANALANE H-300 E marketed or manufactured by AMOCO (MW = 1340 g) mol), Viseal 20000 marketed or manufactured by SYNTEAL (MW = 6000 g / mol), REWOPAL PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by WITCO (MW = 1000 g / mol), polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: PURESYN 10 (MW = 723 g / mol), PURESYN 150 (MW = 9200 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by MOBIL CHEMICALS, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone such as: vinylpyrrolidone / 1-copolymer hexadecene, ANTARON V216 marketed or manufactured by ISP (MW = 7300 g / mol), esters such as: - is Linear fatty acids having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW = 697 g / mol), hydroxylated esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate (MW = 965 g / mol). ), aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW = 757 g / mol), esters of fatty alcohol or branched C24-C28 fatty acids such as those described in application EP-A-0 955 039, and in particular triisoarachidyl citrate (MW = 1033.76 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisonanoate (MW = 697 g / mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MW = 891 g / mol), tri-decyl tetradecanoate 2 glyceryl (MW = 1143 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW = 1202 g / mol), polyglyceryl tetraisostearate -2 (MW = 1232 g / mol) or pentaerythrityl tetra decyl-2 tetradecanoate (MW = 1538 g / mol), a polyester resulting from the esterification of at least one carboxylic acid (s) triglyceride (s) hydroxylated with an acid m aliphatic oncarboxylic and with an optionally unsaturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acid such as castor oil of succinic acid and isostearic acid sold under the reference Zénigloss by Zenitech, - polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of fatty acid unsaturated and diol such as those described in the patent application FR 0853634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Mention may in particular be made of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), - diol dimer and diacid dimer esters of general formula HO-RI - (- OCO-R2 -COO-RI-) h-OH, wherein: RI represents a residue of diol dimer obtained by hydrogenation of dilinoleic diacid R2 represents a hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid residue, and h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9, in particular the esters of dilinoleic diacids and dilinoleic diol dimers marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®, silicone oils such as phenyl silicones (also called phenylated silicone oil) such as BELSIL PDM 1000 from WACKER (MW = 9000 g / mol), phenyl trimethicones (such as phenyl trimethicone sold under the trade name DC556 by Dow Corning), phenyl imethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes; oils of plant origin, such as sesame oil (MW = 820 g / mol), and mixtures thereof.

The glossy oil may also be an oligomer of triglyceride of hydroxylated fatty acid and saturated diacid. Such an oligomer is obtained by reacting a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride (such as hydrogenated castor oil) and a saturated diacid. According to the invention, the diacid is said to be saturated when the hydrocarbon chain constituting it does not contain unsaturation, namely carbon-carbon double bond. The term "diacid" means a hydrocarbon compound comprising two carboxyl functions - COOH. The diacid may be a single diacid or a mixture of several diacids.

Similarly, within the meaning of the invention, the oligomer may be a mixture of several oligomers. Among the saturated diacids that may be used, mention may be made of sebacic acid (or 1,10-decanedioic acid), succinic acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, octadecamethylene dicarboxylic acid and eicosadicarboxylic acid. .

More particularly, the oligomer may be an oligoester whose monomers are represented by the following formulas (A) of triglyceride and (B) of diacid: ## STR2 ## Wherein R 1 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene group comprising, for example, from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and R 2 represents a saturated alkyl group or unsaturated, linear or branched, for example comprising from 1 to 12 carbon atoms; R1 preferably represents a group - (CH2) r1, where n can vary from 1 to 20 and in particular from 3 to 16, for example from 6 to 12; R2 preferably represents a group - (CH2) mCH3, where m may vary from 0 to 1 l and in particular from 2 to 11, for example from 3 to 9; OH -Ri -C-R2 according to one embodiment n = 10 and m = 5, and the group H represents the alkyl residue of 12-hydroxystearic acid (major component of hydrogenated castor oil);

X1 is a linear or branched alkylene group such as for example a linear alkylene group - (CH2) X, where x may vary from 1 to 30 and especially from 3 to 15. When the diacid is sebacic acid, x is equal to at 8.

The average degree of polymerization of the oligomer can vary between 3 and 12. The oligoester of hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid is especially

marketed by the company CRODA under different names depending on the degree of

Polymerization.

Of the oligoesters formed from hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid, that having a degree of polymerization of about 4.6 is available under the trade name "CROMADOL CWS-5" and that having a degree of polymerization of about 9.5 is available under the trade name "CROMADOL

CWS-10 ™, marketed by Croda Japan K.K.

Mention may also be made of the hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid oligomer sold under the name CRODABOND-CSA (MW = 3500) by the company CRODA.

The oligomer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, particularly from 0.1 to 40% by weight, more

From 0.5 to 30% and, for example, from 1 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the glossy oil has a refractive index greater than or equal to 1.45 and in particular ranging from 1.45 to 1.6. The brilliant oil (s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 50% by weight, especially from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 3% to 50% by weight. to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Other Macaws The composition considered according to the invention may further comprise at least one fatty substance chosen from waxes, pasty compounds, structuring agents and / or thickeners, and mixtures thereof.

Wax (s) The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one wax. For the purposes of the invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30 ° C. C up to 120 ° C. The waxes that may be used in a composition according to the invention are chosen from waxes, solid, deformable or not at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. Hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes can be used; rice wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricurry wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax ; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and their esters. Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these, there may be mentioned hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, diethyl tetrastearate, (trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S" by the company HETERENE, di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrahenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the HETERENE company.

It is also possible to use the waxes obtained by transesterification and hydrogenation of vegetable oils, such as castor oil or olive oil, such as the waxes sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® and Phytowax Olive 18L57 by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190. It is also possible to use silicone waxes which may advantageously be substituted polysiloxanes, preferably at low melting point. Among the commercial silicone waxes of this type, mention may be made in particular of those sold under the names Abilwax 9800, 9801 or 9810 (GOLDSCHMIDT), KF910 and KF7002 (SHIN ETSU), or 176-1118-3 and 176-11481 (GENERAL ELECTRIC ). The silicone waxes that may be used may also be alkyl or alkoxydimethicones such as the following commercial products: Abilwax 2428, 2434 and 2440 (GOLDSCHMIDT), or VP 1622 and VP 1621 (WACKER), as well as (C20-C60) alkyldimethicones, in particular especially (C30-C45) alkyldimethicones such as the silicone wax sold under the name SF-1642 by the company GE-Bayer Silicones. It is also possible to use hydrocarbon waxes modified with silicone or fluorinated groups such as, for example, siliconyl candelilla, siliconyl beeswax and Fluorobeeswax by Koster Keunen. The waxes may also be chosen from fluorinated waxes.

The wax or waxes may be present in an amount ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, especially from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Paste compounds The composition considered according to the invention may further comprise at least one pasty compound. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty compound" is intended to mean a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising, at a temperature of 23 ° C., a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound 30 is below 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 23 ° C., represents from 20 to 97% by weight of the pasty compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C is more preferably 25 to 85%, and more preferably 30 to 60% by weight of the pasty compound.

The pasty compound may be chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin. The pasty compound is advantageously chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives such as lanolin alcohol, oxyethylenated lanolines, acetylated lanolin, lanolin esters such as isopropyl lanolate, oxypropylenated lanolines, silicone compounds polymers or nonpolymers such as polydimethylsiloxanes of high molecular weight, polydimethylsiloxanes with side chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, especially stearyl dimethicones, polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds, vinyl polymers, in particular - homopolymers of olefins, - copolymers of olefins, - homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes, - linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a grouping C 8 -C 30 alkyl, homo and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl esters having C 8 -C 18 alkyl groups Homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl ethers having C 6 -C 30 alkyl groups; liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C 2 -C 10 diols, preferably C 2 -C 50 diols, and esters and polyesters; , and their mixtures. The pasty compound may be a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon polymer. A preferred silicone and fluoro pasty compound is polymethyltrifluoropropylmethylalkyl dimethylsiloxane, manufactured under the name X22-1088 by SHIN ETSU. When the pasty compound is a silicone and / or fluorinated polymer, the composition advantageously comprises a compatibilizing agent such as short chain esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate.

Among the liposoluble polyethers, there may be mentioned copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with C6-C30 alkylene oxides. Preferably, the weight ratio of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to the alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will be made in particular of block copolymers comprising blocks of C 6 -C 30 alkylene oxides having a molecular weight ranging from 1,000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene / polydodecylene glycol block copolymer such as dodecanediol ethers. (22 mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 oxyethylene or 0E units) marketed under the trademark ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel.

Among the esters, the following are particularly preferred: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the esters of diglycerol, in particular the condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as those sold under the brand name Softisan 649 by the company Sasol; the phytosterol esters; pentaerythritol esters; esters formed from: at least one C16-4o alcohol, at least one of the alcohols being a Guerbet alcohol and a diacid dimer formed from at least one unsaturated fatty acid; C 18-409 such as tall oil fatty acid dimer ester comprising 36 carbon atoms and a mixture of i) Guerbet alcohols comprising 32 carbon atoms and ii) behenyl alcohol; the dimer ester of linoleic acid and a mixture of two Guerbet alcohols, 2-tetradecyl-octadecanol (32 carbon atoms) and 2-hexadecyl-eicosanol (36 carbon atoms); the non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 -C 50 dicarboxylic acid or a polycarboxylic acid and a C2-050 diol or polyol; polyesters which result from the esterification between a polycarboxylic acid and a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid ester, such as Risocast DA-L and Risocast DA-H marketed by the Japanese company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO, which are esters resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with dilinoleic acid or isostearic acid; and the aliphatic ester esters resulting from the esterification between an aliphatic hydroxyl carboxylic acid ester and an aliphatic carboxylic acid, for example that sold under the trade name Salacos HCIS (V) -L by the company Nishing Oil. Guerbet alcohol is the reaction product of the Guerbet reaction well known to those skilled in the art. This is a reaction converting a primary aliphatic alcohol to its dimer alcohol (3-alkylated with loss of one equivalent of water.) The aliphatic carboxylic acids described above generally comprise from 4 to 30 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms They are preferably chosen from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid and undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexyldecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid , eicosanoic acid, isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, henicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof The aliphatic carboxylic acids are preferably branched. I-hydroxylated hydroxyl are advantageously derived from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid having from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and from 1 to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably from 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and preferably from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid esters are in particular chosen from: a) the esters, partial or total, of linear, saturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; b) esters, partial or total, of unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; c) the esters, partial or total, of polyhydric aliphatic saturated monohydroxy carboxylic acids; d) the esters, partial or total, of saturated polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; e) the esters, partial or total, of aliphatic polyols C2 to C16 reacted with a mono- or polyhydroxylated aliphatic mono- or polycarboxylic acid, f) and mixtures thereof. The ester aliphatic esters are advantageously chosen from: the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in the proportions 1 to 1 (1/1), which is called monoisostearate of hydrogenated castor oil, - the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions 1 to 2 (1/2), which is called oil diisostearate hydrogenated castor oil, - the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions 1 to 3 (1/3), which is called hydrogenated castor oil triisostearate , and their mixtures.

The pasty compound (s) may be present in an amount ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, especially from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

A composition used according to the invention may comprise, in addition to the abovementioned compounds, at least one structuring agent chosen from semicrystalline polymers, lipophilic gelling agents and their mixtures. Semicrystalline Polymers "Polymers" means compounds having at least two units, preferably at least 3 units and especially at least 10 repeating units. By "semi-crystalline polymer" is meant polymers having a crystallizable portion, a pendant crystallizable chain or a crystallizable block in the backbone, and an amorphous portion in the backbone and having a first-order reversible phase change temperature, in particular melting (solid-liquid transition).

When the crystallizable portion is in the form of a crystallizable block of the polymer backbone, the amorphous portion of the polymer is in the form of an amorphous sequence; in this case, the semi-crystalline polymer is a block copolymer, for example of the diblock, triblock or multiblock type, comprising at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block. By "sequence" is generally meant at least 5 identical repetition patterns. The crystallizable sequence (s) are then of a different chemical nature from the amorphous sequence (s). The semi-crystalline polymer has a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C (especially from 30 ° C to 80 ° C), preferably from 30 ° C to 60 ° C. This melting temperature is a first order change of state temperature. This melting temperature can be measured by any known method and in particular using a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.). Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer or polymers have a number-average molecular mass greater than or equal to 1,000. Advantageously, the semi-crystalline polymer or polymers used according to the invention have a number-average molecular weight. Mn ranging from 2,000 to 800,000, preferably from 3,000 to 500,000, more preferably from 4,000 to 150,000, especially less than 100,000, and better still from 4,000 to 99,000. Preferably, they have an average molecular weight in a number greater than 5,600, ranging for example from 5,700 to 99,000. For the purposes of the invention, the term "chain or crystallizable sequence" means a chain or sequence which, if it were alone, would pass from the amorphous state to the crystalline state, reversibly, depending on whether it is above or below the melting temperature. A chain within the meaning of the invention is a group of atoms, during or lateral to the backbone of the polymer. A sequence is a group of atoms belonging to the backbone, a group constituting one of the repeating units of the polymer. Advantageously, the "crystallizable pendant chain" can be a chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms. The semi-crystalline polymer may be chosen from block copolymers comprising at least one crystallizable block and at least one amorphous block, homopolymers and copolymers bearing at least one crystallizable side chain per repeating unit, and mixtures thereof. Such polymers are described, for example, in EP 1,396,259.

According to a more particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer is derived from a crystallizable chain monomer chosen from saturated C14 to C22 alkyl (meth) acrylates. As a particular example of a structuring semicrystalline polymer that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the Intelimer® products from the company Landec described in the brochure "Intelimer ° polymers", Landec IP22 (Rev. 4-97). These polymers are in solid form at ambient temperature (25 ° C.). They carry crystallizable side chains.

Lipophilic Gelling Agents The gelling agents that may be used according to the invention may be organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents. As inorganic lipophilic gelling agents, there may be mentioned optionally modified clays, such as hectorites modified with a C10 to C22 ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl-dimethyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, sold under the name Bentone 38V® by the company ELEMENTIS. It may also be fumed silica. Polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, such as those marketed under the names KSG6®, KSG16® and KSG18® by the company SHIN-ETSU, by Trefil E-505C® and Trefil E-506C® by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC®, SR DMF10®, SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC gel®, SR DMF 10 gel® and SR DC 556 gel® by GRANT INDUSTRIES , SF 1204® and JK 113® by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethylcellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel® by Dow Chemical; galactomannans having from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per sac, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated by C1-C6 alkyl chains, and in particular C1 at C3, "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type block copolymers of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene) type; propylene), such as those sold under the name Kratori by Shell Chemical Co., or else from the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those sold commercially. by the company PENRECO under the name Versagel®, for example the mixture of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and star copolymer ethylene / propyl ene / styrene in isododecane (Versagel M 5960), and mixtures thereof. Lipophilic gelling agents that may also be mentioned include polymers having a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000, comprising a) a polymer backbone having hydrocarbon-based repeating units provided with at least one heteroatom, and optionally b) at least one fatty chain. pendant and / or at least one optionally functionalized terminal fatty chain having from 6 to 120 carbon atoms and being bonded to these hydrocarbon units, as described in applications WO-A-02/056847, WO-A-02/47619 ; in particular polyamide resins (especially comprising alkyl groups having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms) such as those described in US-A-5783657. As an example of a polyamide resin that can be used according to the present invention, there may be mentioned UNICLEAR 100 VG® marketed by ARIZONA CHEMICAL. Among the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those marketed under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® by the CHIBA FLOUR company. Silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in US-A-5,874,069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5,981,680 may also be used. These silicone polymers may belong to the following two families: polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and / or polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of to establish hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.

A composition used according to the invention may furthermore comprise any additional component usually used in cosmetics, such as dyestuffs, fillers or cosmetic active ingredients. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition considered.

Dyestuffs A composition in accordance with the present invention may comprise at least one dyestuff which may be chosen from water-soluble or non-fat-soluble dyestuffs, whether or not liposoluble, organic or inorganic, in particular of the pigment or nacre type, conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, optical effect materials, and mixtures thereof.

The dyestuffs may be present in a proportion of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably 1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition used according to the invention. The term "pigments" is intended to mean white or colored, inorganic (mineral) or organic particles, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color the resulting film. As inorganic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and the like. chromium hydrate. It may also be a pigment having a structure which may for example be sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica. Such a pigment is marketed for example under the reference "COVERLEAF NS" or "JS" by CHEMICALS AND CATALYSTS and has a contrast ratio of about 30. The dyestuff may also comprise a pigment having a structure which may be, for example silica microsphere type containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is that marketed by MIYOSHI under the reference "PC BALL PC-LL-100 P", this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

Calcium and sodium borosilicate in the form of a calcium and sodium borosilicate plate coated with titanium and with tin dioxide (94,25 / 5) can also preferably be used in a composition according to the invention. 25 / 0.5). Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPP). described in EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96/08537. By "nacres", it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with a dye. organic and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride. Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the pearls "TIMICA", "FLAMENCO" and "DUOCHROME" (based on mica) marketed by the company ENGELHARD, the pearls "TIMIRON" marketed by the company MERCK, the nacres on "PRESTIGE" mica base marketed by the company ECKART and nacres based on synthetic mica "Sunshine" marketed by the company SUN CHEMICAL.

The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection. As an illustration of nacres that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of gold-colored nacres sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents marketed by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen sold especially by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint sold especially by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-colored pearlescent agents with a gold glint sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold especially by Engelhard under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with gold reflection sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with reflection silver sold for example by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl marketed by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures. A cosmetic composition used according to the invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect. For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic sheen, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, as well as fibers, in particular interferential fibers. The particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from: particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative; particles comprising a substrate, organic or inorganic, monomatiere or multimaterial at least partially covered by at least one metal-reflecting layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and the mixtures of said particles.

Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te. Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (eg, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

The term "metal derivatives" denotes compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulphides. As an illustration of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those sold under the names "STARBRITE 1200 EAC®" by the company SIBERLINE and "METALURE®" by the company ECKART.

Mention may also be made of copper metal powders or alloy blends such as the references 2844 marketed by the company Radium Bronze, metallic pigments such as aluminum or bronze, such as those sold under the names ROTOSAFE 700 of the ECKART company, the silica-coated aluminum particles marketed under the name "VISIONAIRE BRIGHT SILVER" by ECKART and the metal alloy particles, such as bronze powder (copper and zinc alloy) coated with silica marketed under the name of "VISIONAIRE BRIGHT NATURAL GOLD" from ECKART. It may also be particles comprising a glass substrate such as those sold by the company NIPPON SHEET GLASS under the names "MICROGLASS METASHINE". The goniochromatic coloring agent may be chosen, for example, from interferential multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents. Examples of symmetrical interferential multilayer structures that can be used in compositions produced in accordance with the invention are, for example, the following structures: Al / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Al, pigments having this structure being marketed by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS; Cr / MgF 2 / Al / MgF 2 / Cr, pigments having this structure being marketed under the name "CHROMAFLAIR" by the company FLEX; MoS2 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / Fe2O3, and Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3, pigments having these structures being marketed under the name "SICOPEARL" by BASF; MoSz / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoSz; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2; SnO / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / SnO; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3; SnO / mica / TiO 2 / SiO 2 / TiO 2 / mica / SnO, pigments having these structures being sold under the name "XIRONA" by the company Merck (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments may be the pigments of silica / titania / tin oxide structure marketed under the name "XIRONA MAGIC" by the company MERCK, the silica / brown iron oxide structural pigments marketed under the name "XIRONA INDIAN SUMMER" by the company MERCK and the silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide structural pigments marketed under the name "XIRONA CARRIBEAN BLUE" by the company MERCK. We can also mention the pigments "INFINITE COLORS" from SHISEIDO. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 structure, grey-green to gray-red is passed for SiO 2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for layers of SiO2 from 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO2 layers from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO2 layers from 430 to 440 nm. Mention may be made, by way of example of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure, those marketed by the company 3M under the name "COLOR GLITTER". As liquid crystal goniochromatic particles, it is possible to use, for example, those sold by the company Chenix as well as those sold under the name "Helicone® HC" by the company Wacker. Liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, [3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, Orange DC. 5, yellow quinoline. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue. Fillers A cosmetic composition used according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler, of organic or mineral nature. By "filler" is meant colorless or solid, solid particles of any form, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, they allow to confer body or rigidity to the composition, and / or softness, dullness and uniformity to the makeup. They are distinct from the fumed silica particles and dyestuffs Among the mineral fillers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, trimethyl siloxysilicate, kaolin, bentone and carbonate. precipitated calcium, magnesium carbonate and hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules; Sunsphare L-31, Sunphare H-31 marketed by Asahi Glass; Chemicelen marketed by Asahi Chemical; silica and titanium dioxide composites such as the TSG series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass, and mixtures thereof. It may in particular be spherical fillers such as, for example, talc, zinc stearate, mica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon °) powders (Orgasol® from Atochem), polyethylene powders, powders of polymers of tetrafluoroethylene (Teflon °), starch, boron nitride, polymeric microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industry), copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrap® of the Dow Corning Company) and silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba's Tospearls®, for example), elastomeric organopolysiloxanes. Among the organic fillers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of polyamide powders (Nylon Orgasol from Atochem), poly-b-alanine and polyethylene, powders of polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®), lauroyl-lysine, starch, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, hollow microspheres of polymers such as EXPANCEL (NOBEL INDUSTRIE), precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrogen carbonate, metal soaps derived from organic acids carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), silicone resin microbeads (for example Toshiba's Tospearl®), polyurethane powders, especially crosslinked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, said copolyester a polymer comprising trimethylol hexyl lactone. In particular, it may be a hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone polymer. Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example under the name PLASTIC POWDER D-400® or PLASTIC POWDER D-800® from TOSHIKI, and mixtures thereof. A composition used according to the invention may comprise one or more fillers in a content ranging from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 1% to 10% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition.

Additional Usual Cosmetic Ingredients A composition used according to the invention may furthermore comprise any usual cosmetic ingredient that may be chosen especially from antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives, neutralizers, surfactants, sunscreens, sweeteners, vitamins, moisturizers, emollients, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, anti-free radical agents, sequestering agents, and mixtures thereof. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional ingredients and / or their quantity so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not impaired by the addition envisaged. In particular, a composition of the invention may be in the form of cast products in stick or cup.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is in the form of stick or paste of lipstick or hot run. In particular, the composition of the invention may be in the form of a colored lipstick product such as a lipstick, a lip pencil, possibly having care or treatment properties. It can be in the form of an anhydrous stick. By way of illustration of the fluid formulations, mention may be made especially of gloss. The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic or dermatological field. For example, it can be manufactured by the following method.

At first, the pigments can be milled in part of the oily phase.

The remaining fat-soluble ingredients can then be mixed at a temperature of the order of 100 ° C. The ground material or the pre-dispersed actives can then be added to the oily phase. Any hydrophilic active agents can then be dispersed using a mechanical stirrer. Finally, in the case of a stick, the composition can be cast in a mold capable of providing the final shape (eg stick) and the whole can be left to cool to room temperature and / or in a freezer.

KIT OR ASSEMBLY OF PACKAGING AND APPLICATION As mentioned above, the present invention also relates to a kit or set of packaging and application comprising a reservoir containing a composition as defined above, a device for applying said composition on the skin or the lips, and means for artificially accelerating the drying of the deposit formed on the application of said composition on the skin or the lips, in particular able to provide a breath of air, having a temperature ranging from at 45 ° C. As stated above, the indicated temperature of the air blast is that in contact with the lips or the skin.

Characteristics of a kit or set of packaging and application according to the invention will become apparent on reading the following description, given solely by way of nonlimiting example and with reference to the appended figures. The reservoir containing a composition according to the invention may be coupled to the device for the application of said composition, to form an assembly, known and commonly used in the field of lip makeup, as designated by the general reference numeral 1 in the annexed figures. This set 1 can be adapted to the storage and application of a cosmetic composition formulated in solid form, more precisely in the form of a stick as shown schematically in FIG. 1, or for a composition formulated in fluid form, of the type "Gloss", as shown schematically in Figure 2. This type of assembly, well known to those skilled in the art, is not described in more detail later. Of course, all the possible and known variants for this set of kit or set of packaging and application according to the present invention are also part of the invention. According to a particular embodiment, the means for artificially accelerating the drying of the film formed by the application of said composition, generally designated in the appended figures by the general numerical reference 2, is integrated into the assembly comprising the reservoir. and the device for the application, as described above. In particular, it may be disposed at the end of the assembly 1, opposite to the outlet or application end of the cosmetic composition.

According to another embodiment, the means for artificially accelerating the drying of the film formed by the application of said composition is distinct from this set. In particular, the drying acceleration means of the coating film may comprise a heating means, including in particular a heat source.

By "heat source" is meant more particularly a heating means known to those skilled in the art for drying the layer deposited on the surface of the skin or the lips during the application of a composition for coating materials. keratin. This heat source may consist of thermal resistors 3 shown in Figures 1 and 2, for heating the air. A heating means according to the invention is understood to be any device capable of heating the skin or the lips to a temperature conducive to drying the deposit formed by the application of a composition as described above. This heating means is advantageously conducive to generating a temperature 25 at the level of the coating film deposited on the skin or the lips ranging from 35 ° C to 45 ° C, more particularly from 36 ° C to 41 ° C. Furthermore, a means of accelerating the drying of the coating film according to the invention may also comprise means suitable for generating a breath of air, for example in the direction I shown in FIGS. 1 and 2. This means can a particular embodiment, a drying acceleration means may consist of the assembly of a heating means and a means for generating a blast of heat. as described previously.

Of course, the possible variants for the kit or set of packaging and application according to the invention, to allow on the one hand the application of a composition on the skin or the lips and on the other hand the acceleration of the drying of the formed film, are also part of the invention. The following examples are presented for illustrative and not limiting of the invention. The percentages are expressed relative to the total weight of the composition under consideration.

EXAMPLE 1 Preparation of Silicone Resins MQ-T The resins used for the preparation of silicone resins MQ-T are as follows: resin MQ is a resin of formula Mo, 43Qo, 57 and of molecular weight in number (Mn) of 230, dissolved in xylene at 70.8% by weight solids. The MQ resin was manufactured according to the techniques described by Daudt in US Patent 2,676,182. Propyl resin T is a 74.8% by weight silsesquioxane propyl resin in toluene. Silsesquioxane propyl resin was obtained by hydrolysis of propyl trichlorosilane. Preparation of MQTPY resins The previously described MQ resin and propyl resin T, xylene and 1M KOH in water in the proportions shown in Table 1 are fed to a three-necked stirrer, which is preferably a temperature probe and a Dean Stark apparatus equipped with a condenser at the top. Xylene is pre-introduced into the Dean Stark apparatus to ensure a 50% solids level is maintained in the reactor. The mixture in the reactor is maintained at a reflux temperature (between 100 and 140 ° C) for at least 3 hours. Any water forming in the reaction mixture is continuously removed if necessary and entrapped as an azeotrope in the Dean Stark apparatus. After refluxing for 3 hours, water is removed from the apparatus and heating is continued for another 30 minutes. After cooling the mixture, an excess of acetic acid is added to neutralize the KOH in the mixture. The mixture is then filtered to remove the formed salts by passing it through a pressure filter. Solvent exchange is achieved by heating the mixture in a rotary vacuum evaporator. After removal of the majority of the xylene, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (or isododecane) is added while continuing to remove any residual aromatic solvent. The structures of the resulting siloxane resins are characterized by 29Si and CPG NMR spectroscopy and the results are summarized in Table 2 below.

TABLE 1 EXAMPLE Ratio% wt% wt% wt% wt% wt of xylene resin of MQ / TPr resin resins MQ propyl TKOH 1 M acetic acid added 1-a (85: 15) 59.4 10.5 29.1 0.9 0.2 1-b (50:50) 34.9 34.8 29.1 0.9 0.2 1-c (30:70) 20, 9 48.8 29.2 0.9 0.2 1-d (95: 5) 67.1 3.5 28.3 0.9 0.2 1-e (100: 0) 69.3 0 28, TABLE 2 Example Structure of the resin according to% Mn Mw Mw / Mn the characterization NMR weight of OH Resin MQ M '' 43Q ° 'S 3 230 1 516 4.7 Resin TPRL, o 7 , Propylene T 1-a Mo, 374Q0.529: TPro, 097 1.4 5 880 271 000 46.1 1-b Mo, 248Q0.341: TPro, 412 2.1 6 640 3,860,000 581.3 1-c Mo, 162Qo, 217: TPro, 621 1.5 7 600 25 300 000 3329 1-d M0.419Q0.5485.TPr0.03 1.5 - - - 1-e MQ 1 EXAMPLE 2 Liquid Lipstick Formula Ingredient / Trade Name Formula 1 (% by weight) MQ-T Resin Propyl (30: 70) in isododecane such as 95% prepared in example 1-c to 70.3% in isododecan e Polydimethylsiloxane 4 (Dow Corning 200 Fluid 5CST) DCRed7 1 * or 66.78% by weight of silicone resin MQ-T Preparation protocol The pigments are milled in part of the oily phase. The mixture is stirred with RAYNERI for 45 minutes and the silicone resin and the remainder of the oily phase are added at room temperature. The formula is poured into isododecane-tight water bottles.

Drying Time A layer of Formula 1 applied to the lips was allowed to air dry (i.e., naturally) at room temperature (25 ° C) for 2 minutes. A layer of the same formula was applied to the lips and dried by artificially accelerating drying using a STINTEL HG 3002LCD laboratory heat gun with thermoelectronic control. This stripper makes it possible to regulate the flow of air and its temperature by fixing the parameters of the two output speeds. The temperature of the heat gun is set at 40 ° C., thus making it possible to simulate a blast of air according to the invention at 40 ° C. After applying the composition to the lips, the deposit was blown with air at 40 ° C for 2 minutes. The color fastness properties were measured and compared to that of the same deposit allowed to dry naturally in the open air at 25 ° C for a period of 2 minutes. Color-Consistency Assessment Protocols The color-strengths of the films formed from the application of the above composition, air-dried or artificially dried, were evaluated by the test described above.

Results The results obtained are collated in Table 3 below.

TABLE 3 Formula 1 dried in the open air Formula 1 dried with the (after 2 minutes) heat gun (after 2 minutes) Holding the 38.5 + 12.1% 97.7+ ° 1 8% color These results show that only the film, at the end of an accelerated drying with the aid of a blast of hot air, presents a satisfactory behavior. A film formed from the application of the same composition and having dried in the open air for 2 minutes, the maximum time tolerable by the user, is completely devoid of a satisfactory performance.

EXAMPLE 3 For comparative purposes, two liquid lipstick control compositions were prepared from only about 30% and 15% total weight of MQ-T silicone resin. More specifically, their compositions are the following: Control composition No. 1 Ingredient / Commercial reference% by weight MQ-T propyl resin (30: 70) in isododecane 42.67 * as prepared in Example 1-c above 70.3% in isododecane Polydimethylsiloxane 56.33 (Dow Corning 200 Fluid 5CST) DCRed7 1 * is of the order of 30% by weight of MQ-T resin. Control Composition No. 2 Ingredient / Trade Code% by weight MQ-T Resin Propyl (30: 70) in Isododecane 21.33 * as prepared in Example 1-c above at 70.3% in isododecane Polydimethylsiloxane 77.66 (Dow Corning 200 Fluid 5CST) DCRed7 1 * is of the order of 15% by weight of MQ-T resin.

The compositions were prepared according to the same protocol as that described previously.

The color retention values obtained for the control composition No. 1 at the end of a drying at room temperature and a drying according to the invention are presented in Table 4 below. TABLE 4 Control composition No. 1 dried at Control composition No. 1 dried in the open air (after 2 minutes) with the heat gun (after 2 minutes) 37.4 ± 2.1 41.0 ± 2.8 It can be found that, whatever the drying conditions considered, the control formula No. 1 is not satisfactory in terms of holding. Regarding the control composition No. 2, it remained too fluid at the end of the drying time of 2 minutes, regardless of the selected drying mode so that it is possible to perform a hold test. Keeping the color

Claims (12)

REVENDICATIONS1. A method for making up and / or caring for the skin and / or the lips, comprising at least the steps of: i) depositing on the skin and / or the lips at least one layer of a cosmetic composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least 35% by weight of silicone resin (s) MQ-T relative to the total weight of said composition and at least 15% by weight of volatile oil (s) relative to the total weight of said composition; and ii) artificially accelerating the drying of the deposition carried out in step i), simultaneously or after its application by exposing said deposit to an air blast of temperature ranging from 35 to 45 ° C. 2. Method according to the preceding claim, wherein the air blast has a temperature ranging from 36 ° C to 41 ° C. 3. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the silicone resin (s) MQ-T is / are present (s) in a content ranging from 35% to 80% by weight, in particular from 40% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. 4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the silicone resin (s) MQ-T may be obtained by a process comprising the reaction of: A) a resin MQ comprising at least 80 mol% of (R13SiO1 / 2) a and (SiO4 / 2) d units, where R1 represents an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group a and d being greater than zero, the ratio a / d being between 0.5 and 1.5; and B) a propyl resin T comprising at least 80 mol% of units (R 3 SiO 3/2) c, R 3 representing an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or a group amino, c being greater than zero, with the proviso that at least 40 mol% of the R3 groups are propyl groups. where the mass ratio A / B is between 95: 5 and 15:85. 5. Method according to the preceding claim, wherein the silicone resin MQ-T is a silicone resin MQ-T propyl such that at least 50 mol%, preferably at least 90 mol% of the R3 groups of the T units are propyl groups. 6. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the silicone resin MQ-T comprises the units: (R13 SiO 1/2) a (R3SiO3 / 2) c and (SiO4 / 2) d with R1 and R3 representing independently an alkyl group having 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably R1 is a methyl group and R3 is a propyl group, a is between 0.05 and 0.5, c being greater than zero, d being between 0.05 and 0.6, a + c + d = 1, provided that more than 40 mol% of the R 3 groups of the siloxane resin are propyl groups. 7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the silicone resin MQ-T is chosen from resins comprising the following units: ((CH3) 3 SiO1 / 2) a (R3 SiO3 / 2) c where R3 = CH3CH2CH2-, and (SiO4 / 2) d, or the following units: ((CH3) 3SiO1 / 2) a ((CH3) 2SiO2 / 2) b (R3SiO3 / 2) c where R3 = CH3CH2CH2-, and (SiO4 / 2) d , Or the following units ((CH 3) 3 S O 1/2) a ((CH 3) 2 SiO 2/2) b, ((CH 3) (C 6 H 5) SiO 2/2) b '(R 3 SiO 3/2) c wherein R 3 = CH 3 CH 2 CH 2 and (SiO4 / 2) d, or the following units ((CH3) 3S O1 / 2) a ((CH3) 2SiO2 / 2) b (R3SiO3 / 2) c where R3 = CH3CH2CH2-, and (C6HSSiO3 / 2) c (SiO4 / 2) d, or the following units ((CH3) 3S O1 / 2) a ((CH3) 2SiO2 / 2) b, ((CH3) (C6H5) SiO2 / 2) b '(R3SiO3 / 2) c where R3 = CH3CH2CH2-, and (C6HSSiO3 / 2) c (SiO4 / 2) d, where aa has a total value in the resin of between 0.05 and 0.5, the sum b + b 'has a total value in the resin of between 0 and 0.3, a total value in the resin of between 0.05 and 0.65, and a total value in the resin ise between 0.05 and 0.6. 8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the volatile oil (s) is (are) present in a content ranging from 15% to 50% by weight, in particular from 20% to 40% by weight. by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. 9. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the volatile oil (s) is (are) chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched alkanes containing C8-C16. 10. A process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is in the form of a stick or lip gloss. 11. Kit or set of packaging and application, comprising a reservoir containing a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 10, a device for applying said composition to the skin or the lips, and means for artificially accelerating the drying of the deposit formed upon the application of said composition to the skin or lips, and in particular capable of providing an air blast of temperature ranging from 35 to 45 ° C. 12. Kit or assembly according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the means for artificially accelerating the drying of the film comprises at least one heating means and at least one means conducive to generating a breath of air.