WO2010109409A2 - Cosmetic composition comprising a diester wax - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition comprising a diester wax Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2010109409A2
WO2010109409A2 PCT/IB2010/051253 IB2010051253W WO2010109409A2 WO 2010109409 A2 WO2010109409 A2 WO 2010109409A2 IB 2010051253 W IB2010051253 W IB 2010051253W WO 2010109409 A2 WO2010109409 A2 WO 2010109409A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
oil
wax
acid
weight
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IB2010/051253
Other languages
French (fr)
Other versions
WO2010109409A3 (en
Inventor
Claudia Barba
Audrey Ricard
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Priority claimed from FR0951831A external-priority patent/FR2943243B1/en
Priority claimed from FR0951832A external-priority patent/FR2943244B1/en
Priority claimed from FR0951833A external-priority patent/FR2943245B1/en
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2010109409A2 publication Critical patent/WO2010109409A2/en
Publication of WO2010109409A3 publication Critical patent/WO2010109409A3/en

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/0229—Sticks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks

Definitions

  • Cosmetic composition comprising a diester wax
  • the present invention relates to the cosmetic field and more particularly concerns a cosmetic makeup and/or care composition having reinforced stability, especially over time, and intended to afford improved gloss when applied.
  • the cosmetic compositions that are targeted in the present invention are more particularly makeup and/or care compositions intended to be applied to keratin materials, especially the skin and the lips, and may be formulated especially as lipstick, lip balm, lip pencil, solid foundation, especially cast as a stick or in a dish, concealer product, skin colouring product, eye makeup product, as eyeliner, in particular in pencil form, and mascara, especially in cake form, or alternatively eyeshadow.
  • Obtaining an aesthetic effect after applying a cosmetic composition is the result of a set of properties intrinsic to the composition, which may be expressed in terms of makeup performance, such as migration resistance, comfort on application, and also in terms of cosmetic properties, for instance the colour, the colour fastness, the gloss and the gloss fastness over time, especially one hour after applying the composition.
  • the gloss, the colour fastness and the comfort on application prove to be determining characteristics for obtaining an aesthetic effect after applying a composition formulated as a stick.
  • cosmetic compositions should also be stable over time, should have and maintain a uniform appearance, in order especially to maintain an appearance that is appealing to users, while at the same time especially avoiding any exudation or recrystallization of the waxes at their surface.
  • the formulation within the same composition of phases of different polarities may be reflected by a decrease in the stability of the composition with respect to temperature and/or over time, and insufficient homogeneity manifested especially by exudation of the oily phase.
  • polar oils are particularly advantageous for dispersing pigments
  • apolar oils are advantageous for giving gloss. It would thus be advantageous to be able to formulate apolar oils and polar oils together in the same composition.
  • compositions formulated in stick form are generally ensured by the use of large amounts of waxes. However, such amounts may adversely affect the gloss and the gloss fastness over time of these compositions.
  • polyethylene waxes used to impart good heat stability and good structuring of the liquid fatty phase have an adverse effect on the gloss.
  • ester waxes such as C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate or of polar waxes used for structuring oil-rich sticks, especially sticks rich in glossy apolar oils, of high molecular mass, lead to a limitation of the level of gloss that may be achieved.
  • the properties of migration resistance of a cosmetic composition into wrinkles and fine lines are generally obtained by adding fillers, such as fumed silica, to the formulations.
  • fillers such as fumed silica
  • the presence of these fillers has a tendency to reduce the gloss of the composition thus prepared and to promote a dry sensation, and thus discomfort, when these formulations are applied.
  • the object of the present invention is to satisfy these needs.
  • one subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one phenyl silicone oil and at least one wax, the said wax comprising at least one diester of a C 12 -C 18 dicarboxylic acid and Of Ci 6 -C 22 alcohols.
  • a mixture comprising at least one phenyl silicone oil and at least one wax comprising at least one diester of a C 12 - C 18 dicarboxylic acid and of Ci 6 -C 22 alcohols, and in particular of a phenyl silicone oil such as a phenyl trimethicone, a trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone and/or a trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane as a mixture with a wax comprising a mixture of distearyl octadecanedioate, dibehenyl octadecanedioate and dieicosyl octadecanedioate, makes it possible to obtain formulations that are glossier when applied, and over time, and whose comfort and staying power (especially after eating a meal) are improved, and whose migration is limited.
  • a phenyl silicone oil such as a phenyl trimethicone, a trimethylsiloxypheny
  • a subject of the present invention is also the use, in a cosmetic composition, of at least one mixture comprising at least one phenyl silicone oil and at least one wax comprising at least one diester of a Ci 2 -CiS dicarboxylic acid and Of Ci 6 -C 22 alcohols, for giving the said composition improved stability and gloss.
  • a composition may comprise at least one wax of a diester of a dicarboxylic acid and of alcohols that is suitable for the invention and at least one phenyl silicone oil in a weight ratio of diester wax of a Ci 2 -CiS dicarboxylic acid and Of Ci 6 -C 22 alcohols/oil ranging from 1/20 to 1/1, in particular from 1/10 to 1/3 and more particularly from 1/15 to 1/8.
  • a subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one esterified hydrogenated plant oil and at least one wax, the said wax comprising at least one diester of a C 12-Ci 8 dicarboxylic acid and OfCi 6 -C 22 alcohols.
  • the inventors have observed that the use of a mixture comprising at least one esterified hydrogenated plant oil and at least one wax comprising at least one diester of a C 12 -C 18 dicarboxylic acid and of Ci 6 -C 22 alcohols makes it possible to obtain formulations that are more comfortable when applied and whose gloss and stability are improved.
  • another subject of the present invention is the use, in a cosmetic composition, of at least one mixture comprising at least one hydrogenated plant oil ester and at least one wax comprising at least one diester of a Ci 2 -CiS dicarboxylic acid and of C 16-C 22 alcohols, for giving the said composition improved stability, while at the same time maintaining satisfactory or even improved gloss and comfort.
  • a composition of the invention may comprise at least one wax of a diester of dicarboxylic acid and of alcohols that is suitable for the invention and at least one esterified hydrogenated plant oil in a weight ratio of diester wax/esterified hydrogenated plant oil ranging from 10/1 to 1/1, in particular from 8/1 to
  • the invention relates to a combination of at least one hydrogenated plant oil, such as a hydrogenated myristyl olive oil ester [the INCI name of which is Hydrogenated Myristyl Olive Ester], a hydrogenated stearyl olive oil ester (the INCI name of which is Hydrogenated Stearyl Olive Ester) or a mixture thereof, with at least one wax comprising a mixture of distearyl octadecanedioate, behenyl octadecanedioate and dieicosyl octadecanedioate.
  • a hydrogenated myristyl olive oil ester the INCI name of which is Hydrogenated Myristyl Olive Ester
  • a hydrogenated stearyl olive oil ester the INCI name of which is Hydrogenated Stearyl Olive Ester
  • at least one wax comprising a mixture of distearyl octadecanedioate, behenyl octadecane
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional oil different from those mentioned previously and especially as defined below.
  • the additional oil may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 50% by weight, preferentially ranging from 1% to 30% by weight and preferentially ranging from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition of the invention may thus comprise a total liquid fatty phase, including the phenyl silicone oil, in a content ranging from 20% to 80%, in particular from 30% to 70%, in particular from 35% to 65% and more particularly from 40% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition of the invention may comprise an additional oil in a content ranging from 10% to 90% by weight, in particular from 20% to 70% by weight, in particular from 30% to 65% by weight, or even from 35% to 60% by weight, and more particularly from 40% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a combination of at least one polar oil with at least one apolar oil, and, as stabilizer for the said combination, at least an effective amount of at least one wax, the said wax comprising at least one diester of a
  • a mixture comprising at least one apolar oil and at least one polar oil may be stabilized with at least an effective amount of at least one wax comprising at least one diester of a C 12 -C 18 dicarboxylic acid and Of Ci 6 -C 22 alcohols, and in particular a wax comprising a mixture of dioctadecyl octadecanedioate, didocosyl octadecanedioate and dieicosyl octadecanedioate.
  • a composition of the invention may comprise an oily phase in a content ranging from 20% to 90%, in particular from 30% to 70% by weight and more particularly from 40% to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a subject of the present invention is also the use, in a cosmetic composition, of at least an effective amount of at least one wax comprising at least one diester of a C 12 -
  • C 18 dicarboxylic acid and Of Ci 6 -C 22 alcohols as stabilizer for a composition comprising a combination of at least one polar oil and at least one apolar oil.
  • composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one pasty compound, especially as defined hereinbelow.
  • a composition of the invention may comprise a total content of pasty compound ranging from 0.5% to 50% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 40% and better still from 1% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
  • a composition of the invention may comprise a pasty compound other than an esterified hydrogenated plant oil, in an amount ranging from 5% to 40% by weight, in particular from 10% to 30% by weight and more particularly from 15% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition of the invention may comprise a pasty compound in a content ranging from 10% to 70% by weight, in particular from 20% to 60% by weight and more particularly from 30% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the inventors have observed that the mixtures under consideration in the various abovementioned aspects of the invention make it possible to give excellent stability to the compositions during their storage, especially as regards the exudation of the oily phase or recrystallization phenomena, while at the same time affording them, when they are applied to a surface to be made up, especially to the lips, an improved gloss effect and comfort.
  • the formulations obtained have sufficient structuring to maintain the homogeneity of the compositions during their packaging, and may advantageously undergo phase separation of the oily phase after application to the surface to be made up, thus leading to strong colour intensity and/or high gloss.
  • composition of the invention may be assessed, for example, over a period of two months at 47°C.
  • a composition according to the invention has homogeneous structuring and stability, especially heat stability, that are improved over time.
  • a composition of the invention has good mechanical properties and is comfortable to apply and over time.
  • a composition according to the invention has a creamy, homogeneous structure, and is comfortable to apply.
  • a cosmetic composition of the invention can impart a makeup result that has improved gloss.
  • a cosmetic composition of the invention can impart improved colour fastness and does not migrate into wrinkles and fine lines.
  • a composition of the invention may also comprise at least one additional wax other than the wax of a diester of a C 12 -C 18 dicarboxylic acid and of C16-C22 alcohols, and/or at least one pasty compound, and/or at least one glossy oil of high molecular weight with a high molar mass, ranging from about 650 to about
  • a composition of the invention may be in the form of a coloured composition for making up the skin or the lips, especially for making up the lips, such as a lipstick, a gloss, a lip balm, a lip-plumping product or a lip pencil.
  • a composition of the invention may be a lipstick.
  • the composition according to the invention is in solid form.
  • solid characterizes the state of the composition at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the measurement of the hardness of a composition of the invention may be performed as follows.
  • a sample of the composition under consideration is hot-cast into a stick mould 12.7 mm in diameter.
  • the mould is then cooled in a freezer for about one hour.
  • the stick is then stored at 20 0 C.
  • the hardness of the samples is measured after an interval of 24 hours.
  • the hardness of the samples of a composition of the invention is measured using a DFGS2 tensile testing machine sold by the company Indelco- Chatillon.
  • the hardness corresponds to the maximum shear force exerted by a rigid tungsten wire 250 ⁇ m in diameter, advancing at a rate of 100 mm/minute.
  • the composition according to the invention has, when it is solid, a hardness of between 30 and 300 g or even from 50 to 200 g.
  • the present invention relates to a process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, especially the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one step that consists in applying to the said keratin materials at least one coat of a composition according to the invention.
  • a process according to the invention can impart a makeup result that is glossy and comfortable for a long time.
  • keratin materials means the skin surface as a whole, and especially the skin, the lips and mucous.
  • a composition of the invention comprises at least one wax comprising at least one diester of a C 12 -C 18 dicarboxylic acid and OfCi 6 -C 22 alcohols.
  • the dicarboxylic acid residue of a diester that is suitable for use in the invention is derived from a Ci 2 -CiS dicarboxylic acid.
  • the Ci 2 -CiS dicarboxylic acid residue of the diester wax of the invention may be derived from a saturated linear dicarboxylic acid.
  • a dicarboxylic acid residue of a diester of the invention is derived from an octadecanedioic acid (C 18 ).
  • An alcohol residue of a diester that is suitable for use in the invention is derived from a Ci6 to C 22 alcohol, which is preferably linear and saturated.
  • the alcohol residue of the diester wax that is suitable for use in the invention is derived from a CiS-C 22 alcohol.
  • a diester wax concerned in the invention may comprise at least one diester of a C 18 dicarboxylic acid, which is preferably linear and saturated, and of CiS-C 22 alcohols, which are preferably linear and saturated.
  • the alcohol residues of a diester of the invention may be derived from an alcohol chosen from octadecanol, octadecenol, nonadecanol, nonadecenol, eicosanol, eicosenol, uneicosanol, uneicosenol, docosanol and docosenol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the alcohol residues esterifying the diacid may be identical or different. They are advantageously identical.
  • a diester wax that is suitable for use in the invention may have a melting point ranging from 73°C to 76°C.
  • a diester wax that is suitable for use in the invention may comprise a mixture of distearyl octadecanedioate, dibehenyl octadecanedioate and dieicosyl octadecanedioate.
  • a wax of a diester of a dicarboxylic acid and of alcohols that is suitable for use in the invention is particularly described in patent application WO 2006/097334 and may be prepared especially from a Ci 8 dicarboxylic acid and from the mixture of alcohols whose commercial reference is Stenol C1822AT, this mixture comprising a mixture of C 18 to C22 alcohols, as indicated in Table 1, page 12 of this document.
  • a composition may comprise at least one wax of a diester of a dicarboxylic acid and of C16-C22 alcohols that is suitable for use in the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, in particular from 1.5% to 16% by weight and more particularly from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise, besides at least one diester wax, at least one phenyl silicone oil, also known as a phenyl silicone.
  • phenyl silicone means an organopolysiloxane substituted with at least one phenyl group.
  • a phenyl silicone oil is preferably non-volatile.
  • non-volatile refers to an oil whose vapour pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10 "3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
  • the weight-average molecular weight of the phenyl silicone oil ranges from 500 to 10 000 g/mol.
  • a phenyl silicone oil may correspond to the following formula:
  • the groups R represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl.
  • the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six.
  • a phenyl silicone oil that is suitable for use in the invention may correspond to the following formula:
  • the groups R represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl.
  • the said organopolysiloxane comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five.
  • a phenyl silicone oil may correspond to the following formula:
  • Such a phenyl silicone is especially manufactured by Dow Corning under the reference PH- 1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5- trimethyl-l,l,3,5,5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane, INCI name: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane).
  • the reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid may also be used.
  • the phenyl silicone oil corresponds to the following formula: in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000 and X represents - CH 2 -CH(CH 3 )(Ph).
  • a phenyl silicone oil may correspond to the following formula:
  • a phenyl silicone oil may also be chosen from the phenyl silicones of formula (VI) below, and mixtures thereof:
  • - Ri to Rio independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals,
  • n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, with the proviso that the sum "m+n+q" is different from 0.
  • the sum "m+n+q” is between 1 and 100.
  • the sum "m+n+p+q” is between 1 and 900 and better still between 1 and 800.
  • q is equal to O.
  • the phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from the phenyl silicones of formula (VII) below, and mixtures thereof:
  • - Ri to Re independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals,
  • n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum "n + m" is between 1 and 100.
  • Ri to R 6 independently of each other, represent a saturated, linear or branched C1-C30 and especially C 1 -C 12 hydrocarbon-based radical and in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radical.
  • Ri to R 6 may be identical, and may also be a methyl radical.
  • a phenyl silicone oil that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from the oils of formula (VIII), and mixtures thereof:
  • - R is a C 1 -C 30 alkyl radical, an aryl radical or an aralkyl radical
  • - n is an integer ranging from 0 to 100
  • - m is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m ranges from 1 to 100.
  • radicals R of formula (VIII) and Ri to Rio defined previously may each represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical, especially Of C 2 -C 2 O, in particular C3-C16 and more particularly C 4 -C 10 , or a monocyclic or polycyclic C 6 -C 14 and especially C 10 -C 13 aryl radical or an aralkyl radical in which the aryl and alkyl residues are as defined previously.
  • R of formula (VIII) and Ri to Rio may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.
  • a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII) with a viscosity at 25°C of between 5 and 1500 mm 2 /s (i.e. 5 to 1500 cSt) and preferably with a viscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm 2 /s (i.e. 5 to 1000 cSt) may be used.
  • phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII) it is especially possible to use phenyl trimethicones such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt), the oil Silbione 70663V30 from Rh ⁇ ne-Poulenc (28 cSt) or diphenyl dimethicones such as the Belsil oils, especially Belsil PDMlOOO (1000 cSt), Belsil PDM 200 (200 cSt) and Belsil PDM 20 (20 cSt) from Wacker.
  • the values in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25°C.
  • non-volatile phenyl silicone oil that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from the silicones having the following formula, and mixtures thereof:
  • R 1 , R 2 , R5 and R 6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
  • R 3 and R 4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical
  • X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical
  • n and p being chosen so as to give the oil a weight-average molecular mass of less than 200 000 g/mol, preferably less than 150 000 g/mol and more preferably less than 100 000 g/mol.
  • a phenyl silicone oil makes it possible especially to improve the staying power of the composition without reducing its level of gloss.
  • a phenyl silicone oil that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen especially from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates.
  • a phenyl silicone oil may be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 1% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2% to 60% by weight and better still ranging from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the second aspect of the invention relates to a composition
  • a composition comprising, besides at least one diester wax, at least one hydrogenated plant oil ester, also known as an esterified hydrogenated plant oil.
  • hydrogenated plant oil ester also known as an esterified hydrogenated plant oil.
  • esterified hydrogenated plant oil are used without preference to denote an oil in which, firstly, at least one free carboxylic acid function has been esterified with at least one C 6 -C 22 alcohol, with a melting point of greater than 25°C, and, secondly, the unsaturated bonds have been hydrogenated.
  • an esterified hydrogenated plant oil that is suitable for use in the invention results, firstly, from a modification by esterification of the carboxylic acid functions present in the oil with at least one C 6 -C 22 alcohol with a melting point of greater than 25°C, and, secondly, from hydrogenation of the unsaturated bonds.
  • the hydrogenation of the plant oil may be performed via any technique known to those skilled in the art.
  • the hydrogenation may be total or partial.
  • Partial or total hydrogenation leads to the esterified hydrogenated plant oil being given a solid or pasty (or semi-solid) state, at room temperature (about 25°C).
  • the hydrogenation may be performed before or after modifying the plant oil by esterif ⁇ cation.
  • the hydrogenation is performed after esterif ⁇ cation.
  • the hydrogenation is performed before esterif ⁇ cation.
  • An esterif ⁇ ed hydrogenated plant oil that is suitable for use in the invention may thus be chosen from pasty fatty substances and waxes.
  • an esterified hydrogenated plant oil of the invention When an esterified hydrogenated plant oil of the invention is in the form of a pasty compound, it satisfies the definition of pasty compounds given hereinbelow, and when an esterified hydrogenated plant oil of the invention is in the form of a wax, it satisfies the definition of waxes given hereinbelow.
  • the esterified hydrogenated plant oil is in the form of a pasty fatty substance.
  • esterif ⁇ ed hydrogenated plant oil is in the form of a wax.
  • an esterif ⁇ ed hydrogenated plant oil of the invention comprises at least one ester function formed from esterif ⁇ cation between at least one linear or branched Cs-C 24 carboxylic acid residue, for instance a fatty acid residue, and at least one linear or branched C 6 -C 22 alcohol residue.
  • it may be an oil of triglyceride type,whose at least one free carboxylic acid function present on the triglyceride backbone and/or another free fatty acid residue present on the triglyceride backbone has been esterif ⁇ ed with at least one alcohol residue as defined above.
  • an alcohol that is suitable for esterif ⁇ cation of the said hydrogenated oil may be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 6 -C 22 and in particular Ci 4 -C is fatty alcohols, and in particular may be chosen from monoalcohols.
  • An unsaturated fatty alcohol that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from palmitoleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, elaido linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaidolinolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol and erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • a saturated fatty alcohol that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from hexanol, capryl alcohol or octanol, 2-ethylhexanol, pelargonyl alcohol, decanol, dodecanol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the alcohol is a saturated monoalcohol chosen especially from myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octanol, dodecanol, cetyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.
  • a carboxylic acid residue esterified with a fatty alcohol residue, defined above, of an esterified hydrogenated plant oil of the invention may be a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, especially mono- or polyunsaturated, C8-C24, in particular C14-C22 and especially C18-C20 fatty acid residue.
  • a fatty acid that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linolenic acid, stearidonic acid, eicosatetraenoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, tetracosapentaenoic acid, tetracosahexaenoic acid, linoleic acid, gamma- lino leic acid, eicosadienoic acid, dihomo-gamma-linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosenic acid, erucic acid, rumenic acid, calendic acid, eleostearic acid, catalpic acid and punicic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • the esterified hydrogenated plant oil may be chosen from hydrogenated olive oils and hydrogenated castor oils, at least one free carboxylic acid function and/or at least one free fatty acid residue of which has (have) undergone an esterification with at least one C6-C22 alcohol and preferably with a C 14 -C 18 alcohol such as those mentioned previously.
  • esterified hydrogenated olive oil obtained by esterification with a C6-C22 alcohol that is suitable for use in the invention
  • esterified hydrogenated castor oil obtained by esterif ⁇ cation with a C 6 -C 22 alcohol that is suitable for use in the invention
  • the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol may preferably be used, or alternatively the wax obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with myristyl alcohol, sold under the name Phytowax
  • Olive 14L48 (the INCI name of which is hydrogenated myristyl olive esters) may be used.
  • a composition of the invention may comprise an esterified hydrogenated plant oil in a content ranging from 1% to 30%, in particular from 2% to 20% by weight and more particularly from 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the third aspect of the invention is directed towards a composition
  • a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a combination of at least one polar oil with at least one apolar oil, with respect to which the diester wax acts as a structuring agent.
  • the apolar and polar oils may be, independently of each other, volatile or nonvolatile.
  • They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • volatile oil means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at room temperature, especially having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 ⁇ 3 to 300 mmHg), preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.1 to 10 mmHg).
  • non- volatile oil means any oil that remains on keratin materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and that especially has a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, of less than 0.02 mmHg and better still less than 10 "3 mmHg.
  • a non- volatile oil may also be defined as having a rate of evaporation such that, under the conditions defined previously, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg/cm 2 .
  • apolar oil means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, ⁇ a , is equal to 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 .
  • ⁇ a ( ⁇ p 2 + ⁇ h 2 ) 172 .
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one apolar oil.
  • the apolar oil is a hydrocarbon-based oil.
  • apolar hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil formed essentially from carbon and hydrogen atoms, and in particular formed solely from carbon and hydrogen atoms, and free of heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P.
  • non- volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oils examples include hydrocarbon-based oils such as squalene, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, liquid petroleum jelly and naphthalene oil, polybutene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated or partially hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, squalane, decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, especially Indopol L- 14, and polydecenes such as Puresyn 10, and mixtures thereof.
  • non- volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oils of high molecular mass also known as glossy oils, the molecular mass being for example between 650 and 10 000 g/mol, for instance:
  • the apolar hydrocarbon-based oil may also be a volatile oil, especially with a flash point ranging from 40 0 C to 102 0 C, preferably ranging from 40 0 C to 55°C and preferentially ranging from 40 0 C to 50 0 C.
  • Apolar hydrocarbon-based volatile oils that may be mentioned include hydrocarbon-based volatile oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, and especially branched Cs-Ci 6 alkanes, for instance Cs-Ci 6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permethyls, and mixtures thereof.
  • the volatile or non- volatile apolar oils that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from polybutene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isododecane and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the said apolar oil may be present in a content ranging from 5% to 60% by weight, especially from 10% to 40% by weight and more particularly from 15% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • polar oil means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, ⁇ a , is other than 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 .
  • the polar oil may be a volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, silicone oil and/or fluoro oil.
  • oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • polar hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • silicon oil means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and especially containing Si-O groups.
  • fluoro oil means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.
  • the polar oil may be a non-volatile oil.
  • the non-volatile polar oil may be chosen from the list of oils below, and mixtures thereof:
  • hydrocarbon-based plant oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or jojoba oil;
  • RCOOR' hydrocarbon-based esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, such as isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate or octyl-2-dodecyl neopentanoate;
  • fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms for instance octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol;
  • oils of plant origin such as sesame oil (820.6 g/mol)
  • - fatty acids containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms for instance oleic acid, - dialkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC ® by Cognis, and
  • non-volatile oils of high molecular mass for example between 650 and 10 000 g/mol
  • esters of a diol dimer and of a monocarboxylic acid may be obtained from a monocarboxylic acid containing from 4 to 34 carbon atoms and especially from 10 to 32 carbon atoms, which acids are linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.
  • esters of diol dimer and of dicarboxylic acid may be obtained from a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid especially of Cs to C34, especially C 12 to C22, in particular C 16 to C20 and more particularly C 18 . According to one particular variant, it is more particularly the dicarboxylic acid dimer from which the diol dimer to be esterified is also derived.
  • esters of diol dimer and of carboxylic acid may be obtained from a diol dimer produced by catalytic hydrogenation of a dicarboxylic acid dimer as described previously, for example hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid.
  • diol dimer esters mention may be made especially of esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleyl diol dimers sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan DD-DA5 ® and DD-DA7 ® .
  • the polar oil may be a volatile oil.
  • volatile polar oil may be chosen from the list of oils below, and a mixture thereof.
  • the volatile oil may be a polar hydrocarbon-based oil, a silicone oil or a fluoro oil.
  • ketones that are liquid at room temperature, such as methyl ethyl ketone or acetone
  • short-chain esters especially containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total, such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate or n-butyl acetate
  • ethers that are liquid at room temperature, such as diethyl ether, dimethyl ether or dichlorodiethyl ether, alcohols and especially linear or branched lower monoalcohols containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol.
  • a volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention may be chosen from silicone oils with a flash point ranging from 40 0 C to 102 0 C, preferably with a flash point of greater than 55°C and less than or equal to 95°C, and preferentially ranging from 65°C to 95°C.
  • volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicones with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 centistokes
  • silicones (8 x 10 6 mVs) and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of dimethicones with a viscosity of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyl- tetrasiloxane or dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • volatile fluoro oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the polar oils that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from octyldodecyl/PPG-3 myristyl ether dimerdilinoleate, fatty acid triglycerides, plant oils, octyldodecanol, diisostearyl malate, phenyl silicones and vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene, and mixtures thereof.
  • the said polar oil is present in a content ranging from 5% to 60% by weight, especially from 10% to 40% by weight and more particularly from 15% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition of the invention may comprise from 1% to 80% by weight, or even from 5% to 70% by weight, or even from 10% to 60% by weight, and especially from 15% to 50% by total weight of polar and apolar volatile oils, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition of the invention may comprise from 1% to 80% by weight, or even from 5% to 70% by weight, or even from 10% to 60% by weight, and especially from 15% to 50% by total weight of polar and apolar non- volatile oils, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition of the invention may comprise at least one oil of high molecular mass, also known as glossy oils, which is polar or apolar, the molecular mass of which is, for example, between 650 and 10 000 g/mol, in particular from about 750 to about 7500 g/mol and more particularly ranging from about
  • composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • physiologically acceptable medium is intended to denote a medium that is more particularly suitable for applying a composition of the invention to the skin or the lips.
  • the physiologically acceptable medium is generally suited to the nature of the support onto which the composition is to be applied, and also to the aspect in which the composition is to be conditioned.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise less than 3% by weight of water, and better still less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition may be anhydrous.
  • anhydrous especially means that water is preferably not added deliberately to the composition, but does not exclude the possibility of water being present in trace amount in the various compounds used in the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one liquid fatty phase and/or one solid fatty phase, at room temperature.
  • a liquid fatty phase that is suitable for preparing the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, especially as defined according to the first and second aspects of the invention, may comprise one or more additional oils.
  • oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin. They may be hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, and fluoro or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • silicon oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially comprising Si-O groups.
  • additional oils may be polar or apolar, as defined above. Polar oils are advantageous for promoting the dispersion of pigments, and apolar oils are suitable for imparting high gloss.
  • the additional oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • a composition of the invention may comprise at least one non-volatile additional oil.
  • a composition of the invention may comprise an additional non-volatile oil in a content ranging from 0.1% to 70%, better still from 1% to 60% and even better still from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a non-volatile additional oil that is suitable for use in the invention may be a hydrocarbon-based oil.
  • non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils especially in the case of compositions intended to be applied to the lips, mention may be made especially of:
  • oils of plant origin such as triglycerides formed from fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C 4 to
  • these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides; these oils are especially wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil or musk rose oil; or caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810 ® , 812 ® and 818 ®
  • - fatty acid esters in particular of 4 to 22 carbon atoms, and especially of octanoic acid, of heptanoic acid, of lanolic acid, of oleic acid, of lauric acid, or of stearic acid, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate or neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;
  • oils of formula RiCOOR 2 in which Ri represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that Ri + R 2 > 11 , for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, Ci 2 to C 15 alkyl benzoates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2- octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, he
  • esters for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, and glyceryl or diglyceryl triisostearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;
  • esters of aromatic acids and of alcohols containing 4 to 22 carbon atoms, especially tridecyl trimellitate;
  • - fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol;
  • - C8-C 2 6 higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid;
  • a non-volatile additional oil that is suitable for use in the invention may be a silicone oil.
  • PDMS non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes
  • polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendant and/or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, such as the PDMSs DC 200 Fluid 5 cSt and 350 cSt sold by Dow Corning.
  • a non-volatile additional oil may also be chosen from glossy oils.
  • a composition of the invention may also advantageously comprise a glossy oil, preferably a glossy oil of high molar mass ranging from 650 to 10 000 g/mol and preferably between 750 and 7500 g/mol.
  • the glossy oil(s) represent, when they are present in a composition of the invention, from 0.1% to 70%, better still from 1% to 60% and even better still from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the glossy oil may be chosen from:
  • - lipophilic polymers such as:
  • tridecyl trimellitate MW
  • R 1 represents a diol dimer obtained by hydrogenation of dilinoleic diacid
  • R 2 represents a hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid residue
  • h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9.
  • Esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleyl diol dimers sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan DD-D A5 ® and DD-D A7 ® are especially suitable for use in the invention,
  • a glossy oil may also be a triglyceride oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid and of a saturated dicarboxylic acid.
  • Such an oligomer is obtained by reacting a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride, such as hydrogenated castor oil, and a saturated dicarboxylic acid.
  • the dicarboxylic acid is said to be saturated when the hydrocarbon-based chain of which it is formed does not comprise any unsaturation, i.e. any carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • dicarboxylic acid means a hydrocarbon-based compound comprising two carboxyl functions -COOH.
  • the diacid may be a single diacid or a mixture of several diacids.
  • the oligomer may be a mixture of several oligomers.
  • saturated dicarboxylic acids that may be used, mention may be made of sebacic acid (or 1,10-decanedioic acid), succinic acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, octadecamethylenedicarboxylic acid and eicosadicarboxylic acid.
  • the oligomer may be an oligoester in which the monomers are represented by the triglyceride (A) and diacid (B) formulae below:
  • Ri represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkylene group containing, for example, from 1 to 18 carbon atoms
  • R 2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group containing, for example, from 1 to 12 carbon atoms
  • Ri preferably represents a group -(CH 2 )D-, in which n may range from 1 to 20 and especially from 3 to 16, for example from 6 to 12;
  • R 2 preferably represents a group -(CH 2 ) m -CH3, in which m may range from 0 to 11 and especially from 2 to 11, for example from 3 to 9.
  • H represents the alkyl residue of 12-hydroxystearic acid, which is a major component of hydrogenated castor oil
  • Xi is a linear or branched alkylene group, for instance a linear alkylene group - (CH 2 )X- in which x may range from 1 to 30 and especially from 3 to 15.
  • x is equal to 8.
  • the average degree of polymerization of the oligomer may range between 3 and 12.
  • the oligoester of hydrogenated castor oil and of sebacic acid is sold especially by the company Croda under various names depending on the degree of polymerization.
  • the oligoesters formed from hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid the one with a degree of polymerization of about 4.6 is available under the trade name Cromadol CWS-5 and that with a degree of polymerization of about 9.5 is available under the trade name Cromadol CWS-IO, sold by Croda Japan K.K.
  • the oligomer of hydrogenated castor oil and of sebacic acid sold under the name
  • the oligomer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, particularly from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and for example from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a glossy oil that is suitable for use in the invention may have a refractive index of greater than or equal to 1.45 and especially ranging from 1.45 to 1.6.
  • an additional non-volatile oil may be an apolar oil.
  • apolar oil means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C as defined below, ⁇ a , is equal to 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 .
  • Apolar oils are, in particular, hydrocarbon-based oils formed solely from carbon and hydrogen atoms, and free of heteroatoms such as N, O and P.
  • the apolar non-volatile oil is preferably a hydrocarbon-based oil.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile oil, especially as defined previously.
  • a composition of the invention may comprise from 1% to 70% by weight, or even from 5% to 70% by weight, or even from 10% to 60% by weight and especially from 15% to 50% by weight of volatile additional oil relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition of the invention may comprise less than 30% by weight, or even less than 15% by weight, or even less than 5% by weight, of volatile additional oil relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention is free of volatile additional oil.
  • oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils or fluoro oils, or a mixture thereof.
  • a volatile oil may be a volatile silicone oil.
  • a volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention may be chosen from silicone oils with a flash point ranging from 40 0 C to 102 0 C, preferably with a flash point of greater than 55°C and less than or equal to 95°C, and preferentially ranging from 65°C to 95°C.
  • a volatile silicone oil may be chosen from linear or cyclic silicone oils such as linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms.
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
  • oils examples include octyl trimethicone, hexyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (cyclopentasiloxane or D5), octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (cyclotetradimethylsiloxane or D4), dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4), KF 96 A from Shin- Etsu, polydimethylsiloxanes such as those sold under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), DC 200 (5 cSt) and DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning.
  • a volatile oil may be a volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially Cs-Ci 6 branched alkanes, for instance C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffms), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4, 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permetyls, branched Cs-Ci 6 esters and isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Cs-Ci 6 branched alkanes for instance C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffms), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4, 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under
  • volatile hydrocarbon-based oils for instance petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell SoIt by the company Shell, may also be used.
  • a volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from hydrocarbon-based volatile oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
  • ketones that are liquid at room temperature, such as methyl ethyl ketone or acetone
  • short-chain esters (containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate or n-butyl acetate
  • ethers that are liquid at room temperature, such as diethyl ether, dimethyl ether or dichlorodiethyl ether
  • a volatile oil may also be chosen from fluoro oils such as perfluoropolyethers, perfluoroalkanes, such as perfluorodecalin, perfluoroadamantanes, monoesters, diesters and triesters of perfluoroalkyl phosphates, and fluoro ester oils.
  • fluoro oils such as perfluoropolyethers, perfluoroalkanes, such as perfluorodecalin, perfluoroadamantanes, monoesters, diesters and triesters of perfluoroalkyl phosphates, and fluoro ester oils.
  • a composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one structuring agent for a liquid fatty phase, chosen from waxes that are different from the wax of a diester of a dicarboxylic acid and of alcohols described previously, and pasty compounds other than the hydrogenated plant oils defined previously, if present, and mixtures thereof.
  • at least one structuring agent for a liquid fatty phase chosen from waxes that are different from the wax of a diester of a dicarboxylic acid and of alcohols described previously, and pasty compounds other than the hydrogenated plant oils defined previously, if present, and mixtures thereof.
  • An additional wax under consideration in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to
  • 30 0 C which may be up to 200 0 C and especially up to 120 0 C.
  • the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may have a melting point of greater than or equal to 45°C and in particular greater than or equal to 55°C.
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed by thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3, 1999.
  • the melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instrument.
  • the measuring protocol is as follows:
  • a sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20 0 C to 100 0 C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 100 0 C to -20 0 C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature increase ranging from -20 0 C to 100 0 C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the variation of the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature.
  • the melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in absorbed power as a function of the temperature.
  • the additional waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes that are solid at room temperature of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.
  • additional waxes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made especially of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricurry wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.
  • waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains.
  • isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50 ® , hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil.
  • Mention may also be made of C 2 O-C 6 O microcrystalline waxes such as Micro wax HW.
  • the microcrystalline waxes may advantageously be used in the compositions of the invention to improve the structuring and to give them better homogeneity in terms of crystal sizes.
  • Mention may also be made of silicone waxes (C30-45 alkyl dimethicone) and fluoro waxes.
  • ester wax means a wax comprising at least one ester function. It is especially possible to use as ester wax: i) the waxes of formula RiCOOR 2 in which Ri and R 2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains in which the number of atoms ranges from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P, and whose melting point ranges from 25 to 120 0 C.
  • a C 2 O-C 4 O alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C 2 O-C 4 O alkyl stearate, may be used as ester wax.
  • Such waxes are especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P ® , Hydroxypolyester K 82 P ® , Kester Wax K 80 P ® and Kester Wax K82H by the company Koster Keunen.
  • esters of polyethylene glycol and of montanic acid such as the wax Licowax KPS Flakes (INCI name: glycol montanate) sold by the company Clariant.
  • di(trimethylo 1-1, 1,1 -propane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S ® by the company Heterene,
  • waxes of diesters of a dicarboxylic acid different from the said wax of a diester of a Ci 2 -CiS dicarboxylic acid and of Ci 6 -C 22 alcohols, of general formula R 3 - (-OCO-R 4 -COO-R 5 ), in which R 3 and R 5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group and R 4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 alkyl group, which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations, and is preferably linear and saturated, iv) cetyl and behenyl ester waxes of hydrogenated castor oil fatty acid, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64 ® and 22L73 ® by the company Sophim.
  • Such waxes are described in patent application FR- A-2 792 190.
  • additional wax that is suitable for use in the invention it is also possible to use an alcohol wax.
  • alcohol wax means a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, i.e. comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group.
  • An example of an alcohol wax that may be mentioned is the wax Performacol 550-L Alcohol from New Phase Technologies.
  • micro waxes As additional wax that is suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of micro waxes.
  • microwaxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made especially of carnauba microwaxes such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350 ® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes of synthetic wax such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S ® by the company Micro
  • microwaxes formed from a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax such as those sold under the names Micro Care 300 ® and 310 ® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes formed from a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325 ® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200 ® , 220 ® ,
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional wax chosen from ester waxes, polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, candelilla wax, carnauba wax and sunflower wax, and mixtures thereof.
  • a composition of the invention may comprise from 1% to 20% by weight of additional waxes, in particular from 2% to 15%, more particularly from 4% to 10% by weight and more particularly from 6% to 8% of additional waxes relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the invention may be free of additional wax.
  • a composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional pasty compound, which is, where appropriate, different from an esterified hydrogenated plant oil if such oil is required in parallel according to the invention.
  • a pasty compound may also advantageously be used to give the composition of the invention gloss, improved gloss persistence and a sensation of comfort.
  • the presence of a pasty compound may advantageously make it possible to give improved comfort when a composition of the invention is applied to keratin fibres.
  • the term "pasty” is intended to denote a lipophilic fatty compound that undergoes a reversible solid/liquid change of state and that comprises, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting point of the pasty compound is less than 23°C.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23°C may represent 23% to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23°C preferably represents between 40% and 85% by weight of the compound.
  • the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 0 C is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 23°C to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.
  • the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to change from the solid state to the liquid state.
  • the pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in solid form.
  • the pasty compound is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.
  • the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 0 C per minute, according to standard ISO 11357-3:1999.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to make the compound change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
  • the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23°C, consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 32°C preferably represents from 40% to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably from 50% to 100%, preferably from 80% to 100% and more preferably from 90% to 100% by weight of the compound.
  • the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32°C.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound.
  • the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C is calculated in the same manner as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C.
  • a pasty compound that is suitable for use in the invention may be advantageously chosen from: - lanolin and derivatives thereof,
  • linear or branched oligomers which are homopolymers or copolymers of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably containing a C8-C30 alkyl group,
  • oligomers which are homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters containing C8-C30 alkyl groups, such as polyvinyl laurate,
  • oligomers which are homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl ethers containing C8-C30 alkyl groups, liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherif ⁇ cation between one or more C 2 -C 100 and preferably C2-C50 diols, - esters of a fatty acid or fatty alcohol, pasty substances of plant origin, such as orange wax, for instance the product sold under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen, shea butter, hydrogenated plant oils, such as partially hydrogenated olive oil, for instance the compound sold under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance, or cocoa butter, vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, such as eicosene/PVP,
  • esters of a glycerol oligomer especially diglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid, especially such as the product sold under the brand name Softisan 649 by the company Sasol or such as bis(diglyceryl) poly(2- acyladipate), arachidyl propionate sold under the brand name Waxenol 801 by Alzo, - phytosterol esters, fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof, such as hydrogenated cocoglycerides, non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from poly condensation between a linear or branched C4-C50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxy
  • Plandool-G7 sold by Nippon Fine Chemical, - and mixtures thereof.
  • a pasty compound that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen especially from polyvinyl laurate, sucrose isobutyrate acetate, bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dilinoleyl dimer of dilinoleate dimer, diglyceryl bis- poly(2-acyladipate), dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate, hydrogenated castor oil dilinoleate dimer and eicosene/PVP, and mixtures thereof.
  • a composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one polyester or polycondensate.
  • a composition according to the invention makes it possible, specifically, to incorporate into the composition polyesters while at the same time maintaining the stability properties, so as to further improve the gloss of the composition.
  • a polyester also referred to hereinbelow as a polycondensate, is advantageously obtained by reacting a polyol, a polycarboxylic acid, a non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid and an aromatic monocarboxylic acid.
  • a polyester that is suitable for use in the invention may be preferentially obtained by reacting:
  • a polyester may be obtained by reacting:
  • a polyester used according to the invention comprises a tetraol.
  • tetraol means a polyol comprising 4 hydroxyl groups.
  • a tetraol used for the preparation of the polyester is advantageously a linear, branched and/or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based compound containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and possibly also comprising one or more oxygen atoms intercalated in the chain (ether function). Obviously, a mixture of such tetraols may be used.
  • the said tetraol is in particular a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based compound containing 4 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • a tetraol may be chosen from pentaerythritol or tetramethylolmethane, erythritol, diglycerol and ditrimethylolpropane.
  • the tetraol is chosen from pentaerythritol and diglycerol. Even more preferentially, a tetraol may be pentaerythritol.
  • the content of tetraol, or tetraol mixture represents from 10% to 30% by weight, especially from 12% to 25% by weight and better still from 14% to 22% by weight relative to the total weight of the polyester.
  • the polyester used according to the invention also comprises a linear or branched, saturated monocarboxylic acid containing from 9 to 23 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • saturated monocarboxylic acid means a compound of formula RCOOH in which R is a saturated linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and especially from 11 to 21 carbon atoms. Obviously, a mixture of such monocarboxylic acids may be used.
  • saturated monocarboxylic acids that may be used, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of: nonanoic acid, isononanoic acid (or pelargonic acid), decanoic acid (or capric acid), lauric acid, tridecanoic acid (or tridecylic acid), myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, arachidic acid and behenic acid.
  • lauric acid, myristic acid, isononanoic acid, nonanoic acid, palmitic acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, may be used.
  • isostearic acid or stearic acid is used.
  • Liquid monocarboxylic acids that may be mentioned include nonanoic acid, isononanoic acid and isostearic acid.
  • the saturated monocarboxylic acid When the saturated monocarboxylic acid is solid at room temperature, it generally leads to a polyester that is solid at room temperature.
  • Solid monocarboxylic acids that may be mentioned include decanoic acid, lauric acid, tridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid and behenic acid.
  • the content of saturated monocarboxylic acid, or the mixture of the said acids represents from 40% to 80% by weight, especially from 40% to 75% by weight, or even 45% to 70% by weight and better still 50% to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the polyester.
  • the polyester used according to the invention also comprises a cyclic dicarboxylic acid containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms and especially containing 8 carbon atoms.
  • the cyclic dicarboxylic acid may be aromatic or non-aromatic.
  • the cyclic dicarboxylic acid is preferably aromatic.
  • a cyclic dicarboxylic acid may be chosen from cyclopropanedicarboxylic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, cyclobutanedicarboxylic acid, phthalic acid, terephthalic acid, isophthalic acid, tetrahydrophthalic acid, naphthalene-2,3-dicarboxylic acid and naphthalene-2,6-dicarboxylic acid, or mixtures thereof.
  • the cyclic dicarboxylic acid is chosen from phthalic acid, terephthalic acid and isophthalic acid. Phthalic acid may be advantageously used in its anhydride form. Preferentially, the cyclic dicarboxylic acid is isophthalic acid.
  • a cyclic dicarboxylic acid, or a mixture of such diacids may represent from 5% to 30% by weight and preferably from 15% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the polyester.
  • a polyester used according to the invention also comprises an aromatic monocarboxylic acid containing from 7 to 11 carbon atoms.
  • aromatic monocarboxylic acid means a compound of formula R' COOH, in which R' is an aromatic hydrocarbon-based radical containing 6 to 10 carbon atoms; R' is in particular a phenyl radical, optionally substituted with 1 to 3 alkyl radicals containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. Obviously, a mixture of such aromatic monocarboxylic acids may be used.
  • the aromatic monocarboxylic acid may be chosen from benzoic acid and 4-tert- butylbenzoic acid.
  • the aromatic monocarboxylic acid is preferably benzoic acid.
  • the said aromatic monocarboxylic acid, or the mixture of the said acids represents from 0.1% to 10% by weight, especially from 0.5% to 9.95% by weight and better still from 1% to 9.5% by weight, or even from 1.5% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the polyester.
  • the said polyester is obtained by reacting:
  • the said polyester is obtained by reacting:
  • the said polyester is obtained by reacting:
  • the aromatic monocarboxylic acid is present in a molar amount of less than or equal to that of the linear or branched saturated monocarboxylic acid; in particular, the ratio between the number of moles of aromatic monocarboxylic acid and the number of moles of linear or branched saturated monocarboxylic acid ranges from 0.08 to 0.70.
  • the said weight ratio preferably ranges between 0.10 and 0.60 and more preferentially from 0.12 to 0.40.
  • a polyester described previously may be chosen from benzoic acid/isophthalic acid/isostearic acid/pentaerythritol polyesters and benzoic acid/isophthalic acid/stearic acid/pentaerythritol polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • the polyester has:
  • an acid number expressed as mg of potassium hydroxide per g of polyester, of greater than or equal to 1; especially between 2 and 30 and even better still between 2.5 and 15; and/or
  • hydroxyl number expressed in mg of potassium hydroxide per g of polyester, of greater than or equal to 40; especially between 40 and 120 and better still between 40 and 80.
  • a polyester has a weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of between 3000 and 1 000 000, or even between 3000 and 300 000.
  • the average molecular weight may be determined by gel permeation chromatography or by light scattering, depending on the solubility of the polymer under consideration.
  • a polyester has a viscosity, measured at 110 0 C, of between 20 and 4000 mPa.s, especially between 30 and 3500 mPa.s or even between 40 and 3000 mPa.s and better still between 50 and 2500 mPa.s. This viscosity is measured in the manner described hereinbelow.
  • a polyester may be in liquid form at room temperature.
  • the liquid polyester may have a weight-average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 40 000 to 1 000 000 and preferably ranging from 50 000 to 300 000.
  • a liquid polyester may have a viscosity, measured at 110 0 C, ranging from 1000 to 4000 mPa.s and preferably ranging from 1500 to 3000 mPa.s.
  • a liquid polyester may be a benzoic acid/isophthalic acid/isostearic acid/pentaerythritol polyester, these monomers especially being present in the monomer concentration ranges described previously.
  • a polyester may also be in solid form at room temperature.
  • a solid polyester may have a weight-average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 3000 to 30 000 and preferably ranging from 8000 to 15 000.
  • a solid polyester may have a viscosity, measured at 80 0 C, ranging from 20 to 1000 mPa.s and preferably ranging from 50 to 600 mPa.s.
  • a solid polyester is a benzoic acid/isophthalic acid/stearic acid/pentaerythritol polyester, these monomers being present especially in the monomer concentration ranges described previously.
  • a polyester may be prepared according to the synthetic process described in patent application EP-A-I 870 082.
  • the viscosity of a polyester may be measured in the manner described hereinbelow.
  • the viscosity at 80 0 C or at 110 0 C of a polyester is measured using a cone-plate viscometer of Brookf ⁇ eld CAP 1000+ type.
  • the suitable cone-plate is determined by a person skilled in the art on the basis of his knowledge; especially: - between 50 and 500 mPa.s, a 02 cone may be used,
  • the amount of polyester present in the compositions obviously depends on the type of composition and on the desired properties, and may vary within a very wide range, generally between 0.1% and 70% by weight, preferably between 1% and 50% by weight, especially between 10% and 45% by weight, or even between 20% and 40% by weight and better still between 25% and 35% by weight relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • DYESTUFFS A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one dyestuff.
  • a cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention may advantageously incorporate at least one dyestuff chosen from liposoluble or water-soluble, organic or mineral dyestuffs, especially of the pigment or nacre type conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, materials with a specific optical effect, and mixtures thereof.
  • the term "pigments” should be understood as meaning white or coloured, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous solution and which are intended to colour and/or opacify the resulting film.
  • the pigments may be present in a proportion of from 0.01% to 15% by weight, especially from 0.01% to 10% by weight and in particular from 0.02% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
  • mineral pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate.
  • pigments may also be pigments with a structure that may be, for example, of sericite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica type.
  • a pigment is sold, for example, under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by the company Chemicals and Catalysts, and has a contrast ratio in the region of 30.
  • the dyestuff may also comprise a pigment with a structure that may be, for example, of silica microsphere type containing iron oxide.
  • a pigment having this structure is the product sold by the company Miyoshi under the reference PC
  • Ball PC-LL-100 P this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.
  • organic pigments mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of D&C type, lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium, or alternatively the diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPP) described in documents EP-A-O 542 669, EP-A-O 787 730, EP-A-O 787 731 and WO-A- 96/08537.
  • DPP diketopyrrolopyrroles
  • nacres should be understood as meaning iridescent or non-iridescent coloured particles of any form, especially produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or else synthesized, and which have a colour effect by optical interference.
  • the nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs. Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
  • the mica- based nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome sold by the company Engelhard mention may be made of the mica- based nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome sold by the company Engelhard, the Timiron nacres sold by the company Merck, the Prestige mica-based nacres, sold by the company Eckart, and the Sunshine synthetic mica-based nacres, sold by the company Sun Chemical.
  • the nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or tint.
  • nacres that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of the gold-coloured nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); the bronze
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise water- soluble or liposoluble dyes.
  • the liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, ⁇ -carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC orange 5 and quinoline yellow.
  • the water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice and methylene blue.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect.
  • This effect is different from a simple conventional hue effect, i.e. a unified and stabilized effect as produced by standard dyestuffs, for instance monochromatic pigments.
  • stabilized means lacking an effect of variability of the colour as a function of the angle of observation or alternatively in response to a temperature change.
  • this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic tint, goniochromatic colouring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibres, especially interference fibres. Needless to say, these various materials may be combined so as to simultaneously afford two effects, or even a novel effect in accordance with the invention.
  • the particles with a metallic tint that may be used in the invention are chosen in particular from:
  • - particles comprising a mono-material or multi-material organic or mineral substrate, at least partially coated with at least one coat with a metallic tint comprising at least one metal and/or at least one metal derivative, and
  • metals that may be present in the said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te and Se, and mixtures or alloys thereof.
  • Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo and Cr and mixtures or alloys thereof are preferred metals.
  • metal derivatives is intended to denote compounds derived from metals, especially oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides.
  • aluminium particles such as those sold under the names Starbrite 1200 EAC® by the company Siberline, and Metalure® by the company Eckart.
  • the goniochromatic colouring agent may be chosen, for example, from multilayer interference structures and liquid-crystal colouring agents.
  • Examples of symmetrical multilayer interference structures that may be used in the compositions prepared in accordance with the invention are, for example, the following structures: Al/SiCVAl/SiCVAl, pigments having this structure being sold by the company Dupont de Nemours; Cr/MgF 2 /Al/MgF 2 /Cr, pigments having this structure being sold under the name Chromaflair by the company Flex; MoS 2 ZSiO 2 ZAlZSiO 2 ZMoS 2 ; Fe 2 O 3 ZSiO 2 ZAlZSiO 2 ZFe 2 O 3 , and Fe 2 O 3 ZSiO 2 ZFe 2 O 3 ZSiO 2 ZFe 2 O 3 , pigments having these structures being sold under the name Sicopearl by the company BASF; MoS 2 ZSiO 2 Zmica- oxideZSiO 2 ZMoS 2 ; Fe 2 O 3 ZSiO 2 Zmica-oxideZSiO 2 ZFe 2 O
  • these pigments may be the pigments of silicaZtitanium oxideZtin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Magic by the company Merck, the pigments of silicaZbrown iron oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Indian Summer by the company Merck and the pigments of silicaZtitanium oxideZmicaZtin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Caribbean Blue by the company Merck. Mention may also be made of the Infinite Colors pigments from the company Shiseido. Depending on the thickness and the nature of the various layers, different effects are obtained.
  • the colour changes from green-golden to red-grey for SiO 2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for SiO 2 layers of 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO 2 layers of 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO 2 layers of 430 to 440 nm.
  • pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure examples include those sold by the company 3M under the name Color Glitter.
  • liquid-crystal gonio chromatic particles examples include those sold by the company Chenix and also the product sold under the name Helicone® HC by the company Wacker.
  • a composition of the invention may comprise from 0.005% to 20% by weight, especially from 0.01% to 10%, from 0.1% to 6% and especially from 1% to 4% by weight of dyestuffs relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one filler, of organic or mineral nature, which especially makes it possible to impart thereto improved stability with regard to exudation and improved migration-resistance properties after application.
  • the term "filler” should be understood as meaning colourless or white solid particles of any form, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Being of mineral or organic nature they make it possible to impart body or rigidity to the composition, and/or softness and uniformity to the makeup.
  • the fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular or spherical form, fibres or in any other form intermediate between these defined forms.
  • the fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluoro derivatives or any other substance that promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.
  • mineral fillers and “inorganic fillers” are used interchangeably.
  • mineral fillers that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, trimethyl siloxysilicate, kaolin, bentone, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads from
  • Aerosil 300 Sunsphere L-31 and Sunsphere H-31 sold by Asahi Glass; Chemicelen sold by Asahi Chemical; composites of silica and of titanium dioxide, for instance the TSG series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass, and mixtures thereof.
  • organic fillers that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of polyamide powders (Nylon ® Orgasol from Atochem), poly- ⁇ -alanine powder and polyethylene powder, polytetrafluoroethylene powders (Teflon ® ), lauroyllysine, starch, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, hollow polymer microspheres such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate, Polypore ® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearl ® from Toshiba), polyurethane powders, in particular powders of crosslinked polyurethane comprising a copolymer, the said copolymer comprising trimethylol hex
  • it may be a polymer of hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyllactone.
  • Such particles are especially commercially available, for example, under the name Plastic Powder D-400 ® or Plastic Powder D-800 ® from the company Toshiki, and mixtures thereof.
  • a composition of the invention may comprise from 1% to 20% by weight of fillers relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 5% to 15% by weight and more particularly from 6% to 10% by weight of fillers relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field under consideration, chosen, for example, from water, gums and elastomers, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, dispersants, semi-crystalline polymers, film-forming agents and film-forming auxiliaries, hydrophilic and lipophilic gelling agents, antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptic agents, UV stabilizers, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen protectors, and mixtures thereof.
  • any additive usually used in the field under consideration chosen, for example, from water, gums and elastomers, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, dispersants, semi-crystalline polymers, film-forming agents and film-forming auxiliaries, hydrophilic and lipophilic gelling agents, antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptic agents, UV stabilizers, cosmetic active agents
  • a composition according to the invention comprises less than 3% by weight of water, or even less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, or even is anhydrous.
  • anhydrous especially means that water is not deliberately added to the composition, but does not exclude the possibility of water being present in trace amount in the various compounds used in the composition.
  • a person skilled in the art can, via routine operations, adjust the nature and amounts of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention, such that the desired cosmetic properties and makeup performance, such as the colour intensity, the gloss and the gloss remanence, the homogeneity, and the mechanical and heat stability of these compositions, are not thereby adversely affected.
  • a composition of the invention may be obtained via any preparation process known to those skilled in the art. GLOSS, STAYING POWER, MIGRATION, STABILITY
  • the gloss, the staying power and the migration are evaluated in vivo using a Chromasphere SEI-M-02232-Chro-O machine as described in patent application FR 2 829 344.
  • the staying power of a cosmetic composition reflects its ability to withstand mechanical or physical stresses, such as rubbing or stretching of the made-up surface.
  • the staying power of a composition of the invention may be evaluated via various protocols, for example in vivo using a Chromasphere SEI-M-02232-Chro-O machine.
  • the evaluation of the staying power is performed in the following manner: the staying power is evaluated after a series of tests that consist in applying two "kisses" to a paper handkerchief, drinking a hot drink and then a cold drink and eating two mouthfuls of a sandwich and an apple.
  • the gloss is evaluated in vivo just after application of the formulation and then one hour after application.
  • the migration is evaluated one hour after application.
  • the formulations are applied to the lips of a panel of seven individuals with light, fleshy lips and the measurements are taken using the Chromasphere machine.
  • the properties mentioned hereinabove may also be evaluated in vitro according to any protocol known to those skilled in the art.
  • the stability of a composition of the invention with respect to exudation (or syneresis) may be evaluated by placing the composition in an oven for eight weeks at 25°C. In this test, the physical appearance of the sample is checked at the moment that it is placed in the chamber. The sample is then checked at 24 hours, at three days, at one week, at two weeks, at four weeks and finally at eight weeks.
  • the stability may also be evaluated by repeating the eight-week cycle in the oven at 4°C, 37°C, 47°C and 50 0 C, and under freezing/thawing conditions.
  • the sample is checked as regards its physical appearance, its form (it is examined to see whether it has folded, if the composition is in the form of a lipstick stick or wand, or if it has twisted), the phase separation, the melting or the syneresis (exudation), or alternatively the recrystallization of the waxes at the surface.
  • the terms “syneresis” or “exudation” are used interchangeably and correspond to the appearance of droplets at the surface of the composition, which are visible to the naked eye.
  • compositions are prepared as follows:
  • the oils, the waxes and the pigmentary paste are weighed out and then heated to 98-100 0 C (internal temperature) in a jacketed heating pan, using an oil bath.
  • the molten mixture is stirred using a Rayneri blender, the optional nacres are then incorporated and the mixture is stirred for about 30 minutes.
  • the mixture is then poured into a preheated silicone-coated metallic lipstick mould and then placed in a freezer, and removed from the mould at about 4°C.
  • composition according to the invention For the composition according to the invention, IA, the production of a more uniform deposit than for the comparative composition IB is expected. In addition, composition IB migrates more quickly than composition IA.
  • composition IA according to the invention is expected to remain stable.
  • compositions 2A and 2B were prepared according to the same protocol as that described previously.
  • composition 2A according to the invention the production of a deposit that shows a better level of gloss than the comparative composition 2B, and also good gloss staying power, are expected. Furthermore, composition 2A according to the invention is expected to have better heat stability than that of the comparative example 2B, in particular if the compositions are placed at 47°C for 8 weeks. For the comparative example 2B, poor stability of the stick is observed, and especially exudation of the oils is observed, and the stick has a tendency to become soft. Composition 2A according to the invention is expected to remain stable.
  • compositions 3A and 3B are prepared according to the protocol described previously.
  • the gloss, the staying power and the migration are evaluated in vivo using a Chromasphere SEI-M-02232-Chro-O machine as described in patent application FR 2 829 344 and as described previously.
  • composition 3A according to the invention better results are expected than for the comparative composition 3B, both in terms of immediate gloss and in terms of gloss one hour after application.
  • the composition of example 3 A is also not expected to migrate.
  • composition 3 A according to the invention is expected to remain stable.

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one phenyl silicone oil and at least one wax, the said wax comprising at least one diester of a C12-C18 dicarboxylic acid and Of C16-C22 alcohols.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising a diester wax
The present invention relates to the cosmetic field and more particularly concerns a cosmetic makeup and/or care composition having reinforced stability, especially over time, and intended to afford improved gloss when applied. The cosmetic compositions that are targeted in the present invention are more particularly makeup and/or care compositions intended to be applied to keratin materials, especially the skin and the lips, and may be formulated especially as lipstick, lip balm, lip pencil, solid foundation, especially cast as a stick or in a dish, concealer product, skin colouring product, eye makeup product, as eyeliner, in particular in pencil form, and mascara, especially in cake form, or alternatively eyeshadow.
Obtaining an aesthetic effect after applying a cosmetic composition is the result of a set of properties intrinsic to the composition, which may be expressed in terms of makeup performance, such as migration resistance, comfort on application, and also in terms of cosmetic properties, for instance the colour, the colour fastness, the gloss and the gloss fastness over time, especially one hour after applying the composition.
For instance, the gloss, the colour fastness and the comfort on application prove to be determining characteristics for obtaining an aesthetic effect after applying a composition formulated as a stick.
Moreover, cosmetic compositions should also be stable over time, should have and maintain a uniform appearance, in order especially to maintain an appearance that is appealing to users, while at the same time especially avoiding any exudation or recrystallization of the waxes at their surface.
These makeup, stability and homogeneity qualities derive especially from the physicochemical properties of the compounds used for the formulation of the cosmetic compositions.
However, interactions between the physicochemical properties of the various compounds may occasionally lead to incompatibilities that directly affect the makeup performance, the stability or the homogeneity of the cosmetic compositions. Such incompatibilities often oblige the formulator to design compositions for which certain properties or performance qualities are neglected in favour of others.
For example, the formulation within the same composition of phases of different polarities, such as polar oils and apolar oils, may be reflected by a decrease in the stability of the composition with respect to temperature and/or over time, and insufficient homogeneity manifested especially by exudation of the oily phase.
However, polar oils are particularly advantageous for dispersing pigments, and apolar oils are advantageous for giving gloss. It would thus be advantageous to be able to formulate apolar oils and polar oils together in the same composition.
Moreover, the structuring, the mechanical properties and the heat stability of compositions formulated in stick form are generally ensured by the use of large amounts of waxes. However, such amounts may adversely affect the gloss and the gloss fastness over time of these compositions.
For example, polyethylene waxes used to impart good heat stability and good structuring of the liquid fatty phase have an adverse effect on the gloss.
In general, large amounts of ester waxes, such as C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate or of polar waxes used for structuring oil-rich sticks, especially sticks rich in glossy apolar oils, of high molecular mass, lead to a limitation of the level of gloss that may be achieved.
Moreover, the properties of migration resistance of a cosmetic composition into wrinkles and fine lines are generally obtained by adding fillers, such as fumed silica, to the formulations. However, the presence of these fillers has a tendency to reduce the gloss of the composition thus prepared and to promote a dry sensation, and thus discomfort, when these formulations are applied.
There is thus also a need at the present time to be able to propose glossy formulations that have good gloss remanence and that do not migrate into wrinkles and fine lines in the course of the day. There is further a need to be able to propose cosmetic compositions that have good homogeneity and good stability over time.
In particular, there is a need to be able to propose cosmetic compositions that do not undergo exudation or syneresis, over time, or recrystallization of part of the waxes or pasty substances at their surface. There is also a need to be able to propose cosmetic compositions with satisfactory structuring in terms of heat stability and hardness, whose gloss properties are not affected, or are even improved. There is also a need to be able to propose easy to use cosmetic compositions, which are easy to apply and comfortable throughout the day.
Finally, there is also a need to be able to propose formulations that are rich in dyestuffs, and in particular in pigments, and which maintain satisfactory, or even improved, homogeneity and stability.
The object of the present invention is to satisfy these needs.
Thus, according to a first aspect, one subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one phenyl silicone oil and at least one wax, the said wax comprising at least one diester of a C12-C18 dicarboxylic acid and Of Ci6-C22 alcohols.
Surprisingly, the inventors have observed that the use of a mixture comprising at least one phenyl silicone oil and at least one wax comprising at least one diester of a C12- C18 dicarboxylic acid and of Ci6-C22 alcohols, and in particular of a phenyl silicone oil such as a phenyl trimethicone, a trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone and/or a trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane as a mixture with a wax comprising a mixture of distearyl octadecanedioate, dibehenyl octadecanedioate and dieicosyl octadecanedioate, makes it possible to obtain formulations that are glossier when applied, and over time, and whose comfort and staying power (especially after eating a meal) are improved, and whose migration is limited.
Thus, a subject of the present invention is also the use, in a cosmetic composition, of at least one mixture comprising at least one phenyl silicone oil and at least one wax comprising at least one diester of a Ci2-CiS dicarboxylic acid and Of Ci6-C22 alcohols, for giving the said composition improved stability and gloss. According to this first aspect, a composition may comprise at least one wax of a diester of a dicarboxylic acid and of alcohols that is suitable for the invention and at least one phenyl silicone oil in a weight ratio of diester wax of a Ci2-CiS dicarboxylic acid and Of Ci6-C22 alcohols/oil ranging from 1/20 to 1/1, in particular from 1/10 to 1/3 and more particularly from 1/15 to 1/8. According to a second aspect, a subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one esterified hydrogenated plant oil and at least one wax, the said wax comprising at least one diester of a C 12-Ci 8 dicarboxylic acid and OfCi6-C22 alcohols.
Surprisingly, the inventors have observed that the use of a mixture comprising at least one esterified hydrogenated plant oil and at least one wax comprising at least one diester of a C12-C18 dicarboxylic acid and of Ci6-C22 alcohols makes it possible to obtain formulations that are more comfortable when applied and whose gloss and stability are improved.
Thus, another subject of the present invention is the use, in a cosmetic composition, of at least one mixture comprising at least one hydrogenated plant oil ester and at least one wax comprising at least one diester of a Ci2-CiS dicarboxylic acid and of C 16-C22 alcohols, for giving the said composition improved stability, while at the same time maintaining satisfactory or even improved gloss and comfort.
According to this second aspect, a composition of the invention may comprise at least one wax of a diester of dicarboxylic acid and of alcohols that is suitable for the invention and at least one esterified hydrogenated plant oil in a weight ratio of diester wax/esterified hydrogenated plant oil ranging from 10/1 to 1/1, in particular from 8/1 to
2/1 and more particularly from 6/1 to 4/1.
In particular, the invention relates to a combination of at least one hydrogenated plant oil, such as a hydrogenated myristyl olive oil ester [the INCI name of which is Hydrogenated Myristyl Olive Ester], a hydrogenated stearyl olive oil ester (the INCI name of which is Hydrogenated Stearyl Olive Ester) or a mixture thereof, with at least one wax comprising a mixture of distearyl octadecanedioate, behenyl octadecanedioate and dieicosyl octadecanedioate.
According to the various abovementioned aspects, a composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional oil different from those mentioned previously and especially as defined below.
According to the first aspect of the invention, the additional oil may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 50% by weight, preferentially ranging from 1% to 30% by weight and preferentially ranging from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Such a composition of the invention may thus comprise a total liquid fatty phase, including the phenyl silicone oil, in a content ranging from 20% to 80%, in particular from 30% to 70%, in particular from 35% to 65% and more particularly from 40% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to the second aspect of the invention, a composition of the invention may comprise an additional oil in a content ranging from 10% to 90% by weight, in particular from 20% to 70% by weight, in particular from 30% to 65% by weight, or even from 35% to 60% by weight, and more particularly from 40% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a third aspect, a subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a combination of at least one polar oil with at least one apolar oil, and, as stabilizer for the said combination, at least an effective amount of at least one wax, the said wax comprising at least one diester of a
C12-C18 dicarboxylic acid and Of Ci6-C22 alcohols.
Surprisingly, the inventors have observed that a mixture comprising at least one apolar oil and at least one polar oil may be stabilized with at least an effective amount of at least one wax comprising at least one diester of a C12-C18 dicarboxylic acid and Of Ci6-C22 alcohols, and in particular a wax comprising a mixture of dioctadecyl octadecanedioate, didocosyl octadecanedioate and dieicosyl octadecanedioate.
For the purposes of the invention, the term "effective amount" means the minimum sufficient amount for observing a desired effect, namely the homogeneity and stability of a mixture formed from an apolar oil and a polar oil. Advantageously, according to this third aspect, a composition of the invention may comprise an oily phase in a content ranging from 20% to 90%, in particular from 30% to 70% by weight and more particularly from 40% to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Thus, a subject of the present invention is also the use, in a cosmetic composition, of at least an effective amount of at least one wax comprising at least one diester of a C12-
C18 dicarboxylic acid and Of Ci6-C22 alcohols, as stabilizer for a composition comprising a combination of at least one polar oil and at least one apolar oil.
According to the above-mentioned various aspects, a composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one pasty compound, especially as defined hereinbelow.
According to the first aspect, a composition of the invention may comprise a total content of pasty compound ranging from 0.5% to 50% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 40% and better still from 1% to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
According to the second aspect, a composition of the invention may comprise a pasty compound other than an esterified hydrogenated plant oil, in an amount ranging from 5% to 40% by weight, in particular from 10% to 30% by weight and more particularly from 15% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to the third aspect, a composition of the invention may comprise a pasty compound in a content ranging from 10% to 70% by weight, in particular from 20% to 60% by weight and more particularly from 30% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
In particular, the inventors have observed that the mixtures under consideration in the various abovementioned aspects of the invention make it possible to give excellent stability to the compositions during their storage, especially as regards the exudation of the oily phase or recrystallization phenomena, while at the same time affording them, when they are applied to a surface to be made up, especially to the lips, an improved gloss effect and comfort.
The formulations obtained have sufficient structuring to maintain the homogeneity of the compositions during their packaging, and may advantageously undergo phase separation of the oily phase after application to the surface to be made up, thus leading to strong colour intensity and/or high gloss.
The stability of a composition of the invention may be assessed, for example, over a period of two months at 47°C.
According to one advantage, a composition according to the invention has homogeneous structuring and stability, especially heat stability, that are improved over time.
According to another advantage, a composition of the invention has good mechanical properties and is comfortable to apply and over time.
Advantageously, a composition according to the invention has a creamy, homogeneous structure, and is comfortable to apply. According to yet another advantage, a cosmetic composition of the invention can impart a makeup result that has improved gloss.
According to yet another advantage, a cosmetic composition of the invention can impart improved colour fastness and does not migrate into wrinkles and fine lines.
According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may also comprise at least one additional wax other than the wax of a diester of a C12-C18 dicarboxylic acid and of C16-C22 alcohols, and/or at least one pasty compound, and/or at least one glossy oil of high molecular weight with a high molar mass, ranging from about 650 to about
10 000 g/mol.
According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may be in the form of a coloured composition for making up the skin or the lips, especially for making up the lips, such as a lipstick, a gloss, a lip balm, a lip-plumping product or a lip pencil. In particular, a composition of the invention may be a lipstick.
According to one preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in solid form.
The term "solid" characterizes the state of the composition at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The measurement of the hardness of a composition of the invention may be performed as follows.
A sample of the composition under consideration is hot-cast into a stick mould 12.7 mm in diameter. The mould is then cooled in a freezer for about one hour. The stick is then stored at 200C. The hardness of the samples is measured after an interval of 24 hours.
The hardness of the samples of a composition of the invention, expressed in grams, is measured using a DFGS2 tensile testing machine sold by the company Indelco- Chatillon.
The hardness corresponds to the maximum shear force exerted by a rigid tungsten wire 250 μm in diameter, advancing at a rate of 100 mm/minute.
The technique described above is usually referred to as the "cheese wire" method. Preferably, the composition according to the invention has, when it is solid, a hardness of between 30 and 300 g or even from 50 to 200 g.
According to one embodiment variant, the present invention relates to a process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, especially the skin and/or the lips, comprising at least one step that consists in applying to the said keratin materials at least one coat of a composition according to the invention. Advantageously, a process according to the invention can impart a makeup result that is glossy and comfortable for a long time.
For the purposes of the invention, the term "keratin materials" means the skin surface as a whole, and especially the skin, the lips and mucous.
WAX OF A DIESTER OF DICARBOXYLIC ACID AND OF ALCOHOLS
A composition of the invention comprises at least one wax comprising at least one diester of a C12-C18 dicarboxylic acid and OfCi6-C22 alcohols.
The dicarboxylic acid residue of a diester that is suitable for use in the invention is derived from a Ci2-CiS dicarboxylic acid.
Advantageously, the Ci2-CiS dicarboxylic acid residue of the diester wax of the invention may be derived from a saturated linear dicarboxylic acid.
Preferably, a dicarboxylic acid residue of a diester of the invention is derived from an octadecanedioic acid (C18). An alcohol residue of a diester that is suitable for use in the invention is derived from a Ci6 to C22 alcohol, which is preferably linear and saturated. Preferably, the alcohol residue of the diester wax that is suitable for use in the invention is derived from a CiS-C22 alcohol.
According to one embodiment, a diester wax concerned in the invention may comprise at least one diester of a C18 dicarboxylic acid, which is preferably linear and saturated, and of CiS-C22 alcohols, which are preferably linear and saturated.
Advantageously, the alcohol residues of a diester of the invention may be derived from an alcohol chosen from octadecanol, octadecenol, nonadecanol, nonadecenol, eicosanol, eicosenol, uneicosanol, uneicosenol, docosanol and docosenol, and mixtures thereof.
According to one embodiment, the alcohol residues esterifying the diacid may be identical or different. They are advantageously identical.
According to one embodiment, a diester wax that is suitable for use in the invention may have a melting point ranging from 73°C to 76°C. According to one embodiment, a diester wax that is suitable for use in the invention may comprise a mixture of distearyl octadecanedioate, dibehenyl octadecanedioate and dieicosyl octadecanedioate. A wax of a diester of a dicarboxylic acid and of alcohols that is suitable for use in the invention is particularly described in patent application WO 2006/097334 and may be prepared especially from a Ci 8 dicarboxylic acid and from the mixture of alcohols whose commercial reference is Stenol C1822AT, this mixture comprising a mixture of C18 to C22 alcohols, as indicated in Table 1, page 12 of this document.
According to one embodiment, a composition may comprise at least one wax of a diester of a dicarboxylic acid and of C16-C22 alcohols that is suitable for use in the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, in particular from 1.5% to 16% by weight and more particularly from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
PHENYL SILICONE OIL
As stated hereinabove, a composition according to the invention may comprise, besides at least one diester wax, at least one phenyl silicone oil, also known as a phenyl silicone.
The term "phenyl silicone" means an organopolysiloxane substituted with at least one phenyl group.
A phenyl silicone oil is preferably non-volatile.
The term "non-volatile" refers to an oil whose vapour pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10"3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
Preferably, the weight-average molecular weight of the phenyl silicone oil ranges from 500 to 10 000 g/mol.
According to one embodiment, a phenyl silicone oil may correspond to the following formula:
Figure imgf000010_0001
in which the groups R represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl. Preferably, in this formula, the phenyl silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six. According to another embodiment, a phenyl silicone oil that is suitable for use in the invention may correspond to the following formula:
R R R
R R R (Tϊ) in which the groups R represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, with the proviso that at least one group R represents a phenyl. Preferably, in this formula, the said organopolysiloxane comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five.
Mixtures of the phenyl organopolysiloxanes described previously may be used. Examples that may be mentioned include mixtures of triphenyl, tetraphenyl or pentaphenyl organopolysiloxane. According to another embodiment, a phenyl silicone oil may correspond to the following formula:
Figure imgf000011_0001
in which Me represents methyl and Ph represents phenyl.
Such a phenyl silicone is especially manufactured by Dow Corning under the reference PH- 1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5- trimethyl-l,l,3,5,5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane, INCI name: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane). The reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid may also be used.
According to another embodiment, the phenyl silicone oil corresponds to the following formula:
Figure imgf000012_0001
in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1000 and X represents - CH2-CH(CH3)(Ph).
According to another embodiment, a phenyl silicone oil may correspond to the following formula:
Figure imgf000012_0002
in which -OR' represents -0-SiMe3, y is between 1 and 1000 and z is between 1 and 1000. A phenyl silicone oil may also be chosen from the phenyl silicones of formula (VI) below, and mixtures thereof:
Figure imgf000012_0003
in which:
- Ri to Rio, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals,
- m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, with the proviso that the sum "m+n+q" is different from 0.
Preferably, the sum "m+n+q" is between 1 and 100. Preferably, the sum "m+n+p+q" is between 1 and 900 and better still between 1 and 800. Preferably, q is equal to O. The phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from the phenyl silicones of formula (VII) below, and mixtures thereof:
Figure imgf000013_0001
in which: - Ri to Re, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals,
- m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum "n + m" is between 1 and 100.
Preferably, Ri to R6, independently of each other, represent a saturated, linear or branched C1-C30 and especially C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical and in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radical.
In particular, Ri to R6 may be identical, and may also be a methyl radical. Preferably, in formula (VII), the following values may apply: m = 1 or 2 or 3, and/or n = 0 and/or p = 0 or 1. In particular, according to one embodiment, a phenyl silicone oil that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from the oils of formula (VIII), and mixtures thereof:
Figure imgf000013_0002
in which: - R is a C1-C30 alkyl radical, an aryl radical or an aralkyl radical,
- n is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, and
- m is an integer ranging from 0 to 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m ranges from 1 to 100.
In particular, the radicals R of formula (VIII) and Ri to Rio defined previously may each represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical, especially Of C2-C2O, in particular C3-C16 and more particularly C4-C10, or a monocyclic or polycyclic C6-C 14 and especially C10-C13 aryl radical or an aralkyl radical in which the aryl and alkyl residues are as defined previously.
Preferably, R of formula (VIII) and Ri to Rio may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.
According to one embodiment, a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII) with a viscosity at 25°C of between 5 and 1500 mm2/s (i.e. 5 to 1500 cSt) and preferably with a viscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm2/s (i.e. 5 to 1000 cSt) may be used.
As phenyl silicone oil of formula (VIII), it is especially possible to use phenyl trimethicones such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt), the oil Silbione 70663V30 from Rhόne-Poulenc (28 cSt) or diphenyl dimethicones such as the Belsil oils, especially Belsil PDMlOOO (1000 cSt), Belsil PDM 200 (200 cSt) and Belsil PDM 20 (20 cSt) from Wacker. The values in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25°C.
Also, a non-volatile phenyl silicone oil that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from the silicones having the following formula, and mixtures thereof:
X
Figure imgf000014_0001
OX) in which:
R1, R2, R5 and R6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
R3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an aryl radical, X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical, n and p being chosen so as to give the oil a weight-average molecular mass of less than 200 000 g/mol, preferably less than 150 000 g/mol and more preferably less than 100 000 g/mol. A phenyl silicone oil makes it possible especially to improve the staying power of the composition without reducing its level of gloss.
A phenyl silicone oil that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen especially from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxy silicates.
A phenyl silicone oil may be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 1% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2% to 60% by weight and better still ranging from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
ESTERIFIED HYDROGENATED PLANT OIL
As emerges from the text hereinabove, the second aspect of the invention relates to a composition comprising, besides at least one diester wax, at least one hydrogenated plant oil ester, also known as an esterified hydrogenated plant oil. For the purposes of the present invention, the names "hydrogenated plant oil ester" and "esterified hydrogenated plant oil" are used without preference to denote an oil in which, firstly, at least one free carboxylic acid function has been esterified with at least one C6-C22 alcohol, with a melting point of greater than 25°C, and, secondly, the unsaturated bonds have been hydrogenated. Thus, an esterified hydrogenated plant oil that is suitable for use in the invention results, firstly, from a modification by esterification of the carboxylic acid functions present in the oil with at least one C6-C22 alcohol with a melting point of greater than 25°C, and, secondly, from hydrogenation of the unsaturated bonds.
The hydrogenation of the plant oil may be performed via any technique known to those skilled in the art. The hydrogenation may be total or partial.
Partial or total hydrogenation leads to the esterified hydrogenated plant oil being given a solid or pasty (or semi-solid) state, at room temperature (about 25°C). The hydrogenation may be performed before or after modifying the plant oil by esterifϊcation.
Advantageously, the hydrogenation is performed after esterifϊcation.
According to another advantage, the hydrogenation is performed before esterifϊcation.
An esterifϊed hydrogenated plant oil that is suitable for use in the invention may thus be chosen from pasty fatty substances and waxes.
When an esterified hydrogenated plant oil of the invention is in the form of a pasty compound, it satisfies the definition of pasty compounds given hereinbelow, and when an esterified hydrogenated plant oil of the invention is in the form of a wax, it satisfies the definition of waxes given hereinbelow.
According to one embodiment, the esterified hydrogenated plant oil is in the form of a pasty fatty substance.
According to another embodiment, the esterifϊed hydrogenated plant oil is in the form of a wax.
As emerges from the text hereinabove, an esterifϊed hydrogenated plant oil of the invention comprises at least one ester function formed from esterifϊcation between at least one linear or branched Cs-C24 carboxylic acid residue, for instance a fatty acid residue, and at least one linear or branched C6-C22 alcohol residue. In particular, it may be an oil of triglyceride type,whose at least one free carboxylic acid function present on the triglyceride backbone and/or another free fatty acid residue present on the triglyceride backbone has been esterifϊed with at least one alcohol residue as defined above.
According to one embodiment of the invention, an alcohol that is suitable for esterifϊcation of the said hydrogenated oil may be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C6-C22 and in particular Ci4-C is fatty alcohols, and in particular may be chosen from monoalcohols.
An unsaturated fatty alcohol that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from palmitoleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, elaido linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaidolinolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol and erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
A saturated fatty alcohol that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from hexanol, capryl alcohol or octanol, 2-ethylhexanol, pelargonyl alcohol, decanol, dodecanol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the alcohol is a saturated monoalcohol chosen especially from myristyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octanol, dodecanol, cetyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.
According to one embodiment, a carboxylic acid residue esterified with a fatty alcohol residue, defined above, of an esterified hydrogenated plant oil of the invention may be a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, especially mono- or polyunsaturated, C8-C24, in particular C14-C22 and especially C18-C20 fatty acid residue. A fatty acid that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linolenic acid, stearidonic acid, eicosatetraenoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, tetracosapentaenoic acid, tetracosahexaenoic acid, linoleic acid, gamma- lino leic acid, eicosadienoic acid, dihomo-gamma-linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosenic acid, erucic acid, rumenic acid, calendic acid, eleostearic acid, catalpic acid and punicic acid, and mixtures thereof.
Advantageously, the esterified hydrogenated plant oil may be chosen from hydrogenated olive oils and hydrogenated castor oils, at least one free carboxylic acid function and/or at least one free fatty acid residue of which has (have) undergone an esterification with at least one C6-C22 alcohol and preferably with a C14-C18 alcohol such as those mentioned previously.
In particular, as esterified hydrogenated olive oil obtained by esterification with a C6-C22 alcohol that is suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of hydrogenated olive oil esterified with hexanol, sold under the name Phytowax Olive 6L25 by the company Sophim, hydrogenated olive oil esterified with octanol, sold under the name Phytowax Olive 8L28 by the company Sophim, hydrogenated olive oil esterified with decanol, sold under the name Phytowax Olive 10L40 by the company Sophim, hydrogenated olive oil esterified with dodecanol, sold under the name Phytowax Olive 12L44 by the company Sophim, hydrogenated olive oil esterified with myristyl alcohol, sold under the name Phytowax Olive 14L48 by the company Sophim, hydrogenated olive oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, sold under the name Phytowax Olive 16L55 by the company Sophim, and hydrogenated olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, sold under the name Phytowax Olive 18L57 by the company Sophim. In particular, as esterified hydrogenated castor oil obtained by esterifϊcation with a C6-C22 alcohol that is suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of the cetyl and behenyl esters of a hydrogenated castor oil fatty acid, sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64 and Phytowax ricin 22L73 by the company Sophim, or the hydrogenated castor oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, sold under the name Phytowax ricin 18L69 by the company Sophim.
The waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, sold under the name Phytowax Olive 18L57 (the INCI name of which is hydrogenated stearyl olive esters) may preferably be used, or alternatively the wax obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with myristyl alcohol, sold under the name Phytowax
Olive 14L48 (the INCI name of which is hydrogenated myristyl olive esters) may be used.
Such waxes are described in patent application FR- A-2 792 190.
According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise an esterified hydrogenated plant oil in a content ranging from 1% to 30%, in particular from 2% to 20% by weight and more particularly from 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
As emerges from the text hereinabove, the third aspect of the invention is directed towards a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a combination of at least one polar oil with at least one apolar oil, with respect to which the diester wax acts as a structuring agent.
The apolar and polar oils may be, independently of each other, volatile or nonvolatile.
They may be of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
The term "volatile oil" means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at room temperature, especially having a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapour pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10~3 to 300 mmHg), preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and preferentially ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.1 to 10 mmHg).
The term "non- volatile oil" means any oil that remains on keratin materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and that especially has a non-zero vapour pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, of less than 0.02 mmHg and better still less than 10"3 mmHg.
Besides the definition given previously, a non- volatile oil may also be defined as having a rate of evaporation such that, under the conditions defined previously, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg/cm2.
Apolar oils
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, δa, is equal to 0 (J/cm3)1/2. The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the Hansen three- dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967).
According to this Hansen space:
- δo characterizes the London dispersion forces derived from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular impacts;
- δp characterizes the Debye interaction forces between permanent dipoles and also the Keesom interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles;
- δh characterizes the specific interaction forces (such as hydrogen bonding, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.); and - δa is determined by the equation: δa = (δp 2 + δh2)172.
The parameters δp, δh, δo and δa are expressed in (J/cm3)172. The composition according to the invention comprises at least one apolar oil. According to one preferred embodiment, the apolar oil is a hydrocarbon-based oil. The term "apolar hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially from carbon and hydrogen atoms, and in particular formed solely from carbon and hydrogen atoms, and free of heteroatoms such as N, O, Si and P.
Examples of non- volatile apolar hydrocarbon-based oils that may be mentioned include hydrocarbon-based oils such as squalene, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, liquid petroleum jelly and naphthalene oil, polybutene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated or partially hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosane, squalane, decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, especially Indopol L- 14, and polydecenes such as Puresyn 10, and mixtures thereof. In particular, mention may be made of non- volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oils of high molecular mass, also known as glossy oils, the molecular mass being for example between 650 and 10 000 g/mol, for instance:
- polybutylenes such as Indopol H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g/mol), Indopol H-300 (MW = 1340 g/mol) and Indopol H- 1500 (MW = 2160 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Amoco,
- hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Panalane H-300 E sold or manufactured by the company Amoco (MW = 1340 g/mol), Viseal 20000 sold or manufactured by the company Synteal (MW = 6000 g/mol) and Rewopal PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by the company Witco (MW = 1000 g/mol),
- polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as Puresyn 150 (MW = 9200 g/mol) sold by the company Mobil Chemicals, and
- mixtures thereof.
The apolar hydrocarbon-based oil may also be a volatile oil, especially with a flash point ranging from 400C to 1020C, preferably ranging from 400C to 55°C and preferentially ranging from 400C to 500C.
Apolar hydrocarbon-based volatile oils that may be mentioned include hydrocarbon-based volatile oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof, and especially branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes, for instance Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or Permethyls, and mixtures thereof.
According to one embodiment, the volatile or non- volatile apolar oils that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from polybutene, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isododecane and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof. In a composition according to the invention, the said apolar oil may be present in a content ranging from 5% to 60% by weight, especially from 10% to 40% by weight and more particularly from 15% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Polar oils
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, δa, is other than 0 (J/cm3)1/2. The polar oil may be a volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, silicone oil and/or fluoro oil.
These oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
The term "polar hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
The term "silicone oil" means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and especially containing Si-O groups. The term "fluoro oil" means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.
According to a first embodiment, the polar oil may be a non-volatile oil. In particular, the non-volatile polar oil may be chosen from the list of oils below, and mixtures thereof:
- hydrocarbon-based plant oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or jojoba oil;
- hydrocarbon-based esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, such as isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate or octyl-2-dodecyl neopentanoate;
- polyesters obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and of diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, in particular such as dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Mention may be made especially in this respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer) or copolymers of polyols and of diacid dimers, and esters thereof, such as Hailuscent ISDA,
- fatty alcohols containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and oleyl alcohol;
- C12-C22 higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid and linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof,
- fluoro oils that are optionally partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone- based, - silicone oils such as phenyl silicones, for instance Belsil PDM 1000 from the company Wacker (MW = 9000 g/mol) for example,
- oils of plant origin, such as sesame oil (820.6 g/mol),
- fatty acids containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance oleic acid, - dialkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis, and
- non-volatile oils of high molecular mass, for example between 650 and 10 000 g/mol, for instance: i) vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as the vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymer, Antaron V-216 sold or manufactured by the company ISP (MW = 7300 g/mol), ii) esters such as: a) linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW = 697.05 g/mol), b) hydroxylated esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate (MW = 965.58 g/mol), c) aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW = 757.19 g/mol), d) esters of C24-C28 fatty alcohols or branched fatty acids such as those described in patent application EP-A-O 955 039, and especially triisoarachidyl citrate (MW = 1033.76 g/mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate (MW = 697.05 g/mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MW = 891.51 g/mol), glyceryl tris(2-decyl) tetradecanoate (MW = 1143.98 g/mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW = 1202.02 g/mol), polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate (MW = 1232.04 g/mol) or pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyl) tetradecanoate (MW = 1538.66 g/mol), e) esters and polyesters of diol dimer and of monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of a diol dimer and of a fatty acid and esters of a diol dimer and of a dicarboxylic acid dimer,
- and mixtures thereof.
The esters of a diol dimer and of a monocarboxylic acid may be obtained from a monocarboxylic acid containing from 4 to 34 carbon atoms and especially from 10 to 32 carbon atoms, which acids are linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated.
As illustrative examples of monocarboxylic acids that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made especially of fatty acids. The esters of diol dimer and of dicarboxylic acid may be obtained from a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid especially of Cs to C34, especially C12 to C22, in particular C16 to C20 and more particularly C18. According to one particular variant, it is more particularly the dicarboxylic acid dimer from which the diol dimer to be esterified is also derived.
The esters of diol dimer and of carboxylic acid may be obtained from a diol dimer produced by catalytic hydrogenation of a dicarboxylic acid dimer as described previously, for example hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid. As illustrations of diol dimer esters, mention may be made especially of esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleyl diol dimers sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®.
According to a second embodiment, the polar oil may be a volatile oil.
In particular, the volatile polar oil may be chosen from the list of oils below, and a mixture thereof.
The volatile oil may be a polar hydrocarbon-based oil, a silicone oil or a fluoro oil.
As volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of ketones that are liquid at room temperature, such as methyl ethyl ketone or acetone; short-chain esters, especially containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total, such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate or n-butyl acetate; ethers that are liquid at room temperature, such as diethyl ether, dimethyl ether or dichlorodiethyl ether, alcohols and especially linear or branched lower monoalcohols containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol. A volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention may be chosen from silicone oils with a flash point ranging from 400C to 1020C, preferably with a flash point of greater than 55°C and less than or equal to 95°C, and preferentially ranging from 65°C to 95°C.
As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicones with a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 centistokes
(cSt) (8 x 106 mVs) and especially containing from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of dimethicones with a viscosity of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyl- tetrasiloxane or dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
As volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of the silicones described in patent application FR 0 304 259.
It is also possible to use volatile fluoro oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.
According to one embodiment, the polar oils that are suitable for use in the invention may be chosen from octyldodecyl/PPG-3 myristyl ether dimerdilinoleate, fatty acid triglycerides, plant oils, octyldodecanol, diisostearyl malate, phenyl silicones and vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene, and mixtures thereof. In a composition according to the invention, the said polar oil is present in a content ranging from 5% to 60% by weight, especially from 10% to 40% by weight and more particularly from 15% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise from 1% to 80% by weight, or even from 5% to 70% by weight, or even from 10% to 60% by weight, and especially from 15% to 50% by total weight of polar and apolar volatile oils, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise from 1% to 80% by weight, or even from 5% to 70% by weight, or even from 10% to 60% by weight, and especially from 15% to 50% by total weight of polar and apolar non- volatile oils, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to one preferred embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise at least one oil of high molecular mass, also known as glossy oils, which is polar or apolar, the molecular mass of which is, for example, between 650 and 10 000 g/mol, in particular from about 750 to about 7500 g/mol and more particularly ranging from about
1000 to about 5000 g/mol. PHYSIOLOGICALLY ACCEPTABLE MEDIUM
Besides the compounds indicated previously, a composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.
The term "physiologically acceptable medium" is intended to denote a medium that is more particularly suitable for applying a composition of the invention to the skin or the lips.
The physiologically acceptable medium is generally suited to the nature of the support onto which the composition is to be applied, and also to the aspect in which the composition is to be conditioned. Preferably, a composition according to the invention may comprise less than 3% by weight of water, and better still less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.
More preferably, the composition may be anhydrous.
The term "anhydrous" especially means that water is preferably not added deliberately to the composition, but does not exclude the possibility of water being present in trace amount in the various compounds used in the composition.
A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one liquid fatty phase and/or one solid fatty phase, at room temperature.
Liquid fatty phase
A liquid fatty phase that is suitable for preparing the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, especially as defined according to the first and second aspects of the invention, may comprise one or more additional oils.
These oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin. They may be hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, and fluoro or non-fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
The term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially comprising Si-O groups. The additional oils may be polar or apolar, as defined above. Polar oils are advantageous for promoting the dispersion of pigments, and apolar oils are suitable for imparting high gloss.
The additional oils may be volatile or non-volatile. According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise at least one non-volatile additional oil.
A composition of the invention may comprise an additional non-volatile oil in a content ranging from 0.1% to 70%, better still from 1% to 60% and even better still from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. A non-volatile additional oil that is suitable for use in the invention may be a hydrocarbon-based oil.
As non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, especially in the case of compositions intended to be applied to the lips, mention may be made especially of:
- hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as triglycerides formed from fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to
C24, these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides; these oils are especially wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, marrow oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil or musk rose oil; or caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel, or alternatively caprylic/capric triglyceride sold especially under the name Myritol 318® by the company Cognis;
- synthetic ethers;
- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® or Parleam V® sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, and squalane, and mixtures thereof;
- fatty acid esters, in particular of 4 to 22 carbon atoms, and especially of octanoic acid, of heptanoic acid, of lanolic acid, of oleic acid, of lauric acid, or of stearic acid, for instance propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate or neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;
- synthetic esters, for instance oils of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon-based chain that is especially branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that Ri + R2 > 11 , for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, Ci2 to C15 alkyl benzoates, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2- octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or of polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2- ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octydodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate or isodecyl neopentanoate;
- hydroxylated esters, for instance isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, and glyceryl or diglyceryl triisostearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate;
- pentaerythritol esters; esters of aromatic acids and of alcohols containing 4 to 22 carbon atoms, especially tridecyl trimellitate;
- polyesters obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and of a diol, such as those described in patent application FR 08/53634, such as, in particular, dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Mention may be made especially in this respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer);
- fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol;
- C8-C26 higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid;
- and mixtures thereof.
According to one embodiment, a non-volatile additional oil that is suitable for use in the invention may be a silicone oil.
The non- volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be chosen from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendant and/or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, such as the PDMSs DC 200 Fluid 5 cSt and 350 cSt sold by Dow Corning.
A non-volatile additional oil may also be chosen from glossy oils. Thus, according to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may also advantageously comprise a glossy oil, preferably a glossy oil of high molar mass ranging from 650 to 10 000 g/mol and preferably between 750 and 7500 g/mol.
Preferably, the glossy oil(s) represent, when they are present in a composition of the invention, from 0.1% to 70%, better still from 1% to 60% and even better still from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The glossy oil may be chosen from:
- lipophilic polymers such as:
- polybutylenes such as Indopol H-100 (of molar mass MW = 965 g/mol), Indopol H-300 (MW = 1340 g/mol) or Indopol H-1500 (MW = 2160 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Amoco,
- hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Panalane H-300 E sold or manufactured by Amoco (MW = 1340 g/mol), Viseal 20000 sold or manufactured by the company Synteal (MW = 6000 g/mol) and Rewopal PIB 1000 sold or manufactured by the company Witco (MW = 1000 g/mol), - polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: Puresyn 10
(MW = 723 g/mol) and Puresyn 150 (MW = 9200 g/mol) sold or manufactured by the company Mobil Chemicals,
- vinylpyrrolidone copolymers such as: the vinylpyrrolidone/1-hexadecene copolymer Antaron V-216 sold or manufactured by the company ISP (MW = 7300 g/mol), - esters such as:
- linear fatty acid esters with a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, for instance pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW = 697 g/mol),
- hydroxylated esters such as polyglyceryl-2- triisostearate (MW = 965 g/mol),
- aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW = 757 g/mol), - C24-C28 esters of branched fatty alcohols or fatty acids such as those described in patent application EP-A-O 955 039, and especially triisoarachidyl citrate (MW = 1033.76 g/mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate (MW = 697 g/mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MM = 891 g/mol), glyceryl tris(2-decyl)tetradecanoate (MW = 1143 g/mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW = 1202 g/mol), polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate (MW = 1232 g/mol) or pentaerythrityl tetrakis(2-decyl)tetradecanoate
(MW = 1538 g/mol), - a polyester resulting from the esterifϊcation of at least one hydroxylated carboxylic acid triglyceride with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid and with an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid, which is optionally unsaturated, such as the castor oil of succinic acid and of isostearic acid sold under the reference Zenigloss by Zenitech,
- polyesters obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer and of a diol, such as those described in patent application FR 08/53634, such as, in particular, dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol. Mention may be made especially in this respect of the polymer sold by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer),
- esters of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer of general formula: HO-R1 -(-OCO-R^COO-R1 -)h-OH in which:
R1 represents a diol dimer obtained by hydrogenation of dilinoleic diacid,
R2 represents a hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid residue, and h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9.
Esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleyl diol dimers sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade names Lusplan DD-D A5® and DD-D A7® are especially suitable for use in the invention,
- oils of plant origin such as sesame oil (MW = 820 g/mol), - and mixtures thereof.
A glossy oil may also be a triglyceride oligomer of a hydroxylated fatty acid and of a saturated dicarboxylic acid.
Such an oligomer is obtained by reacting a hydroxylated fatty acid triglyceride, such as hydrogenated castor oil, and a saturated dicarboxylic acid.
According to the invention, the dicarboxylic acid is said to be saturated when the hydrocarbon-based chain of which it is formed does not comprise any unsaturation, i.e. any carbon-carbon double bonds. The term "dicarboxylic acid" means a hydrocarbon-based compound comprising two carboxyl functions -COOH. The diacid may be a single diacid or a mixture of several diacids.
Similarly, for the purposes of the invention, the oligomer may be a mixture of several oligomers.
Among the saturated dicarboxylic acids that may be used, mention may be made of sebacic acid (or 1,10-decanedioic acid), succinic acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, octadecamethylenedicarboxylic acid and eicosadicarboxylic acid.
More particularly, the oligomer may be an oligoester in which the monomers are represented by the triglyceride (A) and diacid (B) formulae below:
Figure imgf000030_0001
(A)
Figure imgf000030_0002
in which:
Ri represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkylene group containing, for example, from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl group containing, for example, from 1 to 12 carbon atoms;
Ri preferably represents a group -(CH2)D-, in which n may range from 1 to 20 and especially from 3 to 16, for example from 6 to 12;
R2 preferably represents a group -(CH2)m-CH3, in which m may range from 0 to 11 and especially from 2 to 11, for example from 3 to 9.
According to one embodiment, n = 10 and m = 5, and the group OH Rl C R2
H represents the alkyl residue of 12-hydroxystearic acid, which is a major component of hydrogenated castor oil;
Xi is a linear or branched alkylene group, for instance a linear alkylene group - (CH2)X- in which x may range from 1 to 30 and especially from 3 to 15.
When the diacid is sebacic acid, x is equal to 8.
The average degree of polymerization of the oligomer may range between 3 and 12.
The oligoester of hydrogenated castor oil and of sebacic acid is sold especially by the company Croda under various names depending on the degree of polymerization.
Among the oligoesters formed from hydrogenated castor oil and sebacic acid, the one with a degree of polymerization of about 4.6 is available under the trade name Cromadol CWS-5 and that with a degree of polymerization of about 9.5 is available under the trade name Cromadol CWS-IO, sold by Croda Japan K.K. The oligomer of hydrogenated castor oil and of sebacic acid sold under the name
Crodabond-CSA (MW = 3500) by the company Croda may also be mentioned.
The oligomer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, particularly from 0.1% to 40% by weight, more particularly from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and for example from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, a glossy oil that is suitable for use in the invention may have a refractive index of greater than or equal to 1.45 and especially ranging from 1.45 to 1.6.
According to one embodiment, an additional non-volatile oil may be an apolar oil.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "apolar oil" means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C as defined below, δa, is equal to 0 (J/cm3)1/2. Apolar oils are, in particular, hydrocarbon-based oils formed solely from carbon and hydrogen atoms, and free of heteroatoms such as N, O and P.
The apolar non-volatile oil is preferably a hydrocarbon-based oil.
According to another embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise at least one volatile oil, especially as defined previously.
According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise from 1% to 70% by weight, or even from 5% to 70% by weight, or even from 10% to 60% by weight and especially from 15% to 50% by weight of volatile additional oil relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to another preferred embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise less than 30% by weight, or even less than 15% by weight, or even less than 5% by weight, of volatile additional oil relative to the total weight of the composition.
More preferably, a composition according to the invention is free of volatile additional oil.
These oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils or fluoro oils, or a mixture thereof.
According to one variant of the invention, a volatile oil may be a volatile silicone oil.
A volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention may be chosen from silicone oils with a flash point ranging from 400C to 1020C, preferably with a flash point of greater than 55°C and less than or equal to 95°C, and preferentially ranging from 65°C to 95°C.
A volatile silicone oil may be chosen from linear or cyclic silicone oils such as linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms.
Examples of such oils that may be mentioned include octyl trimethicone, hexyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (cyclopentasiloxane or D5), octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (cyclotetradimethylsiloxane or D4), dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane (D6), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4), KF 96 A from Shin- Etsu, polydimethylsiloxanes such as those sold under the reference DC 200 (1.5 cSt), DC 200 (5 cSt) and DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning. According to one variant of the invention, a volatile oil may be a volatile hydrocarbon-based oil.
The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially Cs-Ci6 branched alkanes, for instance C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffms), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4, 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permetyls, branched Cs-Ci6 esters and isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, for instance petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell SoIt by the company Shell, may also be used. Preferably, a volatile hydrocarbon-based oil is chosen from hydrocarbon-based volatile oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof. As other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may also be made of ketones that are liquid at room temperature, such as methyl ethyl ketone or acetone; short-chain esters (containing from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate or n-butyl acetate; ethers that are liquid at room temperature, such as diethyl ether, dimethyl ether or dichlorodiethyl ether; alcohols and especially linear or branched lower monoalcohols containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol, and mixtures thereof.
A volatile oil may also be chosen from fluoro oils such as perfluoropolyethers, perfluoroalkanes, such as perfluorodecalin, perfluoroadamantanes, monoesters, diesters and triesters of perfluoroalkyl phosphates, and fluoro ester oils.
A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one structuring agent for a liquid fatty phase, chosen from waxes that are different from the wax of a diester of a dicarboxylic acid and of alcohols described previously, and pasty compounds other than the hydrogenated plant oils defined previously, if present, and mixtures thereof.
Additional waxes
An additional wax under consideration in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound, which is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to
300C, which may be up to 2000C and especially up to 1200C.
By bringing a wax to the liquid state (melting), it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a macroscopically homogeneous mixture, and by reducing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixture is obtained.
In particular, the waxes that are suitable for use in the invention may have a melting point of greater than or equal to 45°C and in particular greater than or equal to 55°C.
For the purposes of the invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed by thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3, 1999. The melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instrument.
The measuring protocol is as follows:
A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -200C to 1000C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 1000C to -200C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature increase ranging from -200C to 1000C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second temperature increase, the variation of the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in absorbed power as a function of the temperature.
The additional waxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from waxes that are solid at room temperature of animal, plant, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. As illustrations of additional waxes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made especially of hydrocarbon-based waxes, for instance beeswax, lanolin wax, Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricurry wax, esparto grass wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japan wax and sumach wax; montan wax, orange wax and lemon wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, the waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, and also esters thereof.
Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or plant oils containing linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these waxes that may especially be mentioned are isomerized jojoba oil such as the trans-isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or sold by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil. Mention may also be made of C2O-C6O microcrystalline waxes such as Micro wax HW. The microcrystalline waxes may advantageously be used in the compositions of the invention to improve the structuring and to give them better homogeneity in terms of crystal sizes. Mention may also be made of silicone waxes (C30-45 alkyl dimethicone) and fluoro waxes.
Mention may also be made, as additional waxes, of an ester wax other than the diester wax defined previously. According to the invention, the term "ester wax" means a wax comprising at least one ester function. It is especially possible to use as ester wax: i) the waxes of formula RiCOOR2 in which Ri and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains in which the number of atoms ranges from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom such as O, N or P, and whose melting point ranges from 25 to 1200C. In particular, a C2O-C4O alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, or a C2O-C4O alkyl stearate, may be used as ester wax. Such waxes are especially sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P®, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®, Kester Wax K 80 P® and Kester Wax K82H by the company Koster Keunen.
It is also possible to use an ester of polyethylene glycol and of montanic acid (octacosanoic acid), such as the wax Licowax KPS Flakes (INCI name: glycol montanate) sold by the company Clariant. ii) di(trimethylo 1-1, 1,1 -propane) tetrastearate, sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company Heterene,
iii) waxes of diesters of a dicarboxylic acid, different from the said wax of a diester of a Ci2-CiS dicarboxylic acid and of Ci6-C22 alcohols, of general formula R3- (-OCO-R4-COO-R5), in which R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical, and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 alkyl group, which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations, and is preferably linear and saturated, iv) cetyl and behenyl ester waxes of hydrogenated castor oil fatty acid, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company Sophim. Such waxes are described in patent application FR- A-2 792 190. As additional wax that is suitable for use in the invention, it is also possible to use an alcohol wax.
According to the invention, the term "alcohol wax" means a wax comprising at least one alcohol function, i.e. comprising at least one free hydroxyl (OH) group. An example of an alcohol wax that may be mentioned is the wax Performacol 550-L Alcohol from New Phase Technologies.
As additional wax that is suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made of micro waxes.
As microwaxes that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made especially of carnauba microwaxes such as the product sold under the name MicroCare 350® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes of synthetic wax such as the product sold under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company Micro
Powders, microwaxes formed from a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those sold under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes formed from a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as the product sold under the name Micro Care 325® by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®,
220L® and 250S® by the company Micro Powders and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes such as those sold under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company Micro Powders, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one additional wax chosen from ester waxes, polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, candelilla wax, carnauba wax and sunflower wax, and mixtures thereof.
According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise from 1% to 20% by weight of additional waxes, in particular from 2% to 15%, more particularly from 4% to 10% by weight and more particularly from 6% to 8% of additional waxes relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may be free of additional wax.
Pasty compounds
A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional pasty compound, which is, where appropriate, different from an esterified hydrogenated plant oil if such oil is required in parallel according to the invention.
A pasty compound may also advantageously be used to give the composition of the invention gloss, improved gloss persistence and a sensation of comfort. The presence of a pasty compound may advantageously make it possible to give improved comfort when a composition of the invention is applied to keratin fibres.
For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty" is intended to denote a lipophilic fatty compound that undergoes a reversible solid/liquid change of state and that comprises, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting point of the pasty compound is less than 23°C.
The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23°C may represent 23% to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23°C preferably represents between 40% and 85% by weight of the compound.
The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 230C is equal to the ratio of the heat of fusion consumed at 23°C to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.
The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to change from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 100C per minute, according to standard ISO 11357-3:1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to make the compound change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23°C, consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
The liquid fraction of the pasty compound, measured at 32°C, preferably represents from 40% to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably from 50% to 100%, preferably from 80% to 100% and more preferably from 90% to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32°C.
The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound.
The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C is calculated in the same manner as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C.
A pasty compound that is suitable for use in the invention may be advantageously chosen from: - lanolin and derivatives thereof,
- polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds,
- polymeric or non-polymeric fluoro compounds,
- vinyl polymers, especially:
• olefin homopolymers, • olefin copolymers,
• hydrogenated diene homopolymers and copolymers,
• linear or branched oligomers, which are homopolymers or copolymers of alkyl (meth)acrylates preferably containing a C8-C30 alkyl group,
• oligomers, which are homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters containing C8-C30 alkyl groups, such as polyvinyl laurate,
• oligomers, which are homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl ethers containing C8-C30 alkyl groups, liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherifϊcation between one or more C2-C 100 and preferably C2-C50 diols, - esters of a fatty acid or fatty alcohol, pasty substances of plant origin, such as orange wax, for instance the product sold under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen, shea butter, hydrogenated plant oils, such as partially hydrogenated olive oil, for instance the compound sold under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance, or cocoa butter, vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, such as eicosene/PVP,
- and mixtures thereof. Among the esters that may especially be mentioned are: esters of a glycerol oligomer, especially diglycerol esters, in particular condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which some of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid, and 12-hydroxystearic acid, especially such as the product sold under the brand name Softisan 649 by the company Sasol or such as bis(diglyceryl) poly(2- acyladipate), arachidyl propionate sold under the brand name Waxenol 801 by Alzo, - phytosterol esters, fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof, such as hydrogenated cocoglycerides, non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from poly condensation between a linear or branched C4-C50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-C50 diol or polyol, aliphatic esters of an ester resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid (Salacos HCIS (V)-L sold by the company Nishing Oil), polyesters resulting from the esterification, with a polycarboxylic acid, of an ester of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid, the said ester comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, such as the products Risocast DA-H® and Risocast DA-L®, sucrose isobutyrate acetate, copolymers of a diol dimer and of a diacid dimer, and esters thereof, such as dilinoleyl diol dimer/dilinoleic dimer copolymers and esters thereof, for instance Plandool- G (INCI name: bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate) and
Plandool-G7, sold by Nippon Fine Chemical, - and mixtures thereof.
According to one embodiment, a pasty compound that is suitable for use in the invention may be chosen especially from polyvinyl laurate, sucrose isobutyrate acetate, bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dilinoleyl dimer of dilinoleate dimer, diglyceryl bis- poly(2-acyladipate), dipentaerythrityl tetrahydroxystearate/tetraisostearate, hydrogenated castor oil dilinoleate dimer and eicosene/PVP, and mixtures thereof.
Polyesters or polycondensates
A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one polyester or polycondensate.
A composition according to the invention makes it possible, specifically, to incorporate into the composition polyesters while at the same time maintaining the stability properties, so as to further improve the gloss of the composition.
A polyester, also referred to hereinbelow as a polycondensate, is advantageously obtained by reacting a polyol, a polycarboxylic acid, a non-aromatic monocarboxylic acid and an aromatic monocarboxylic acid.
In particular, a polyester that is suitable for use in the invention may be preferentially obtained by reacting:
- a tetraol containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms; - a linear or branched saturated monocarboxylic acid containing from 9 to 23 carbon atoms;
- a cyclic dicarboxylic acid containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms;
- an aromatic monocarboxylic acid containing from 7 to 11 carbon atoms.
Advantageously, a polyester may be obtained by reacting:
- from 10% to 30% by weight of tetraol containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms;
- from 40% to 80% by weight of a linear or branched saturated monocarboxylic acid containing from 9 to 23 carbon atoms;
- from 5% to 30% by weight of a cyclic dicarboxylic acid containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms;
- from 0.1% to 10% by weight of an aromatic monocarboxylic acid containing from 7 to 11 carbon atoms, the contents being expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the polyester. A polyester used according to the invention comprises a tetraol. The term
"tetraol" means a polyol comprising 4 hydroxyl groups.
A tetraol used for the preparation of the polyester is advantageously a linear, branched and/or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based compound containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and possibly also comprising one or more oxygen atoms intercalated in the chain (ether function). Obviously, a mixture of such tetraols may be used. The said tetraol is in particular a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon-based compound containing 4 to 10 carbon atoms.
A tetraol may be chosen from pentaerythritol or tetramethylolmethane, erythritol, diglycerol and ditrimethylolpropane.
Preferably, the tetraol is chosen from pentaerythritol and diglycerol. Even more preferentially, a tetraol may be pentaerythritol.
The content of tetraol, or tetraol mixture, represents from 10% to 30% by weight, especially from 12% to 25% by weight and better still from 14% to 22% by weight relative to the total weight of the polyester.
The polyester used according to the invention also comprises a linear or branched, saturated monocarboxylic acid containing from 9 to 23 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 22 carbon atoms.
The term "saturated monocarboxylic acid" means a compound of formula RCOOH in which R is a saturated linear or branched hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and especially from 11 to 21 carbon atoms. Obviously, a mixture of such monocarboxylic acids may be used.
Among the saturated monocarboxylic acids that may be used, mention may be made, alone or as a mixture, of: nonanoic acid, isononanoic acid (or pelargonic acid), decanoic acid (or capric acid), lauric acid, tridecanoic acid (or tridecylic acid), myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, arachidic acid and behenic acid. Preferably, lauric acid, myristic acid, isononanoic acid, nonanoic acid, palmitic acid, isostearic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures thereof, may be used.
Preferentially, isostearic acid or stearic acid is used.
When the saturated monocarboxylic acid is liquid at room temperature, it generally leads to a polyester that is liquid at room temperature. Liquid monocarboxylic acids that may be mentioned include nonanoic acid, isononanoic acid and isostearic acid.
When the saturated monocarboxylic acid is solid at room temperature, it generally leads to a polyester that is solid at room temperature.
Solid monocarboxylic acids that may be mentioned include decanoic acid, lauric acid, tridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid and behenic acid. The content of saturated monocarboxylic acid, or the mixture of the said acids, represents from 40% to 80% by weight, especially from 40% to 75% by weight, or even 45% to 70% by weight and better still 50% to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the polyester.
The polyester used according to the invention also comprises a cyclic dicarboxylic acid containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms and especially containing 8 carbon atoms. The cyclic dicarboxylic acid may be aromatic or non-aromatic. The cyclic dicarboxylic acid is preferably aromatic.
Obviously, a mixture of such cyclic dicarboxylic acids may be used.
A cyclic dicarboxylic acid may be chosen from cyclopropanedicarboxylic acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, cyclobutanedicarboxylic acid, phthalic acid, terephthalic acid, isophthalic acid, tetrahydrophthalic acid, naphthalene-2,3-dicarboxylic acid and naphthalene-2,6-dicarboxylic acid, or mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the cyclic dicarboxylic acid is chosen from phthalic acid, terephthalic acid and isophthalic acid. Phthalic acid may be advantageously used in its anhydride form. Preferentially, the cyclic dicarboxylic acid is isophthalic acid.
A cyclic dicarboxylic acid, or a mixture of such diacids, may represent from 5% to 30% by weight and preferably from 15% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the polyester.
A polyester used according to the invention also comprises an aromatic monocarboxylic acid containing from 7 to 11 carbon atoms.
The term "aromatic monocarboxylic acid" means a compound of formula R' COOH, in which R' is an aromatic hydrocarbon-based radical containing 6 to 10 carbon atoms; R' is in particular a phenyl radical, optionally substituted with 1 to 3 alkyl radicals containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. Obviously, a mixture of such aromatic monocarboxylic acids may be used.
The aromatic monocarboxylic acid may be chosen from benzoic acid and 4-tert- butylbenzoic acid. The aromatic monocarboxylic acid is preferably benzoic acid.
The said aromatic monocarboxylic acid, or the mixture of the said acids, represents from 0.1% to 10% by weight, especially from 0.5% to 9.95% by weight and better still from 1% to 9.5% by weight, or even from 1.5% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the polyester.
According to one preferred embodiment, the said polyester is obtained by reacting:
- from 12% to 25% by weight of a tetraol containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms;
- from 40% to 75% by weight of a linear or branched saturated monocarboxylic acid containing from 9 to 23 carbon atoms;
- from 15% to 25% by weight of a cyclic dicarboxylic acid containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms;
- from 0.5% to 9.95% by weight of an aromatic monocarboxylic acid containing from 7 to 11 carbon atoms, the contents being expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the polyester.
According to another preferred embodiment, the said polyester is obtained by reacting:
- from 14% to 22% by weight of a tetraol containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms; - from 45% to 70% by weight of a linear or branched saturated monocarboxylic acid containing from 9 to 23 carbon atoms;
- from 15% to 25% by weight of a cyclic dicarboxylic acid containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms;
- from 1% to 9.5% by weight of an aromatic monocarboxylic acid containing from 7 to 11 carbon atoms, the contents being expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the polyester.
According to another preferred embodiment, the said polyester is obtained by reacting:
- from 14% to 22% by weight of a tetraol containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms;
- from 50% to 65% by weight of a linear or branched, saturated monocarboxylic acid containing from 9 to 23 carbon atoms;
- from 15% to 25% by weight of a cyclic dicarboxylic acid containing from 6 to 12 carbon atoms;
- from 1.5% to 8% by weight of an aromatic monocarboxylic acid containing from 7 to 11 carbon atoms, the contents being expressed as weight percentages relative to the total weight of the polyester.
In one preferred embodiment of the polyester used according to the invention, the aromatic monocarboxylic acid is present in a molar amount of less than or equal to that of the linear or branched saturated monocarboxylic acid; in particular, the ratio between the number of moles of aromatic monocarboxylic acid and the number of moles of linear or branched saturated monocarboxylic acid ranges from 0.08 to 0.70. The said weight ratio preferably ranges between 0.10 and 0.60 and more preferentially from 0.12 to 0.40.
According to one embodiment of the invention, a polyester described previously may be chosen from benzoic acid/isophthalic acid/isostearic acid/pentaerythritol polyesters and benzoic acid/isophthalic acid/stearic acid/pentaerythritol polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
These monomers are especially used in the monomer concentration ranges described previously. Preferably, the polyester has:
- an acid number, expressed as mg of potassium hydroxide per g of polyester, of greater than or equal to 1; especially between 2 and 30 and even better still between 2.5 and 15; and/or
- a hydroxyl number, expressed in mg of potassium hydroxide per g of polyester, of greater than or equal to 40; especially between 40 and 120 and better still between 40 and 80.
These acid and hydroxyl numbers may be readily determined by a person skilled in the art via the usual analytical methods.
Preferably, a polyester has a weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of between 3000 and 1 000 000, or even between 3000 and 300 000.
The average molecular weight may be determined by gel permeation chromatography or by light scattering, depending on the solubility of the polymer under consideration.
Preferably, a polyester has a viscosity, measured at 1100C, of between 20 and 4000 mPa.s, especially between 30 and 3500 mPa.s or even between 40 and 3000 mPa.s and better still between 50 and 2500 mPa.s. This viscosity is measured in the manner described hereinbelow.
Advantageously, a polyester may be in liquid form at room temperature. The liquid polyester may have a weight-average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 40 000 to 1 000 000 and preferably ranging from 50 000 to 300 000.
A liquid polyester may have a viscosity, measured at 1100C, ranging from 1000 to 4000 mPa.s and preferably ranging from 1500 to 3000 mPa.s.
In particular, a liquid polyester may be a benzoic acid/isophthalic acid/isostearic acid/pentaerythritol polyester, these monomers especially being present in the monomer concentration ranges described previously.
A polyester may also be in solid form at room temperature. A solid polyester may have a weight-average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 3000 to 30 000 and preferably ranging from 8000 to 15 000.
A solid polyester may have a viscosity, measured at 800C, ranging from 20 to 1000 mPa.s and preferably ranging from 50 to 600 mPa.s.
In particular, a solid polyester is a benzoic acid/isophthalic acid/stearic acid/pentaerythritol polyester, these monomers being present especially in the monomer concentration ranges described previously.
A polyester may be prepared according to the synthetic process described in patent application EP-A-I 870 082.
The viscosity of a polyester may be measured in the manner described hereinbelow.
The viscosity at 800C or at 1100C of a polyester is measured using a cone-plate viscometer of Brookfϊeld CAP 1000+ type.
The suitable cone-plate is determined by a person skilled in the art on the basis of his knowledge; especially: - between 50 and 500 mPa.s, a 02 cone may be used,
- between 500 and 1000 mPa. s : 03 cone,
- between 1000 and 4000 mPa.s: 05 cone, and - between 4000 and 10 000 mPa.s: 06 cone.
The amount of polyester present in the compositions obviously depends on the type of composition and on the desired properties, and may vary within a very wide range, generally between 0.1% and 70% by weight, preferably between 1% and 50% by weight, especially between 10% and 45% by weight, or even between 20% and 40% by weight and better still between 25% and 35% by weight relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition.
DYESTUFFS A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one dyestuff.
A cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention may advantageously incorporate at least one dyestuff chosen from liposoluble or water-soluble, organic or mineral dyestuffs, especially of the pigment or nacre type conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, materials with a specific optical effect, and mixtures thereof. The term "pigments" should be understood as meaning white or coloured, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous solution and which are intended to colour and/or opacify the resulting film.
The pigments may be present in a proportion of from 0.01% to 15% by weight, especially from 0.01% to 10% by weight and in particular from 0.02% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
As mineral pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate.
They may also be pigments with a structure that may be, for example, of sericite/brown iron oxide/titanium dioxide/silica type. Such a pigment is sold, for example, under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by the company Chemicals and Catalysts, and has a contrast ratio in the region of 30.
The dyestuff may also comprise a pigment with a structure that may be, for example, of silica microsphere type containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is the product sold by the company Miyoshi under the reference PC
Ball PC-LL-100 P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide. Among the organic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of D&C type, lakes based on cochineal carmine or on barium, strontium, calcium or aluminium, or alternatively the diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPP) described in documents EP-A-O 542 669, EP-A-O 787 730, EP-A-O 787 731 and WO-A- 96/08537.
The term "nacres" should be understood as meaning iridescent or non-iridescent coloured particles of any form, especially produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or else synthesized, and which have a colour effect by optical interference.
The nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs. Examples of nacres that may also be mentioned include natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the mica- based nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome sold by the company Engelhard, the Timiron nacres sold by the company Merck, the Prestige mica-based nacres, sold by the company Eckart, and the Sunshine synthetic mica-based nacres, sold by the company Sun Chemical.
The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orangey, brown, gold and/or coppery colour or tint.
As illustrations of nacres that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of the gold-coloured nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); the nacres with a copper tint sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red tint sold especially by the company Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); the nacres with a yellow tint sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red nacres with a gold tint sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Sunstone GO 12 (Gemtone); the pink nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with a gold tint sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with a silvery tint sold especially by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver, and the golden-green pink-orange nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof. A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise water- soluble or liposoluble dyes. The liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC orange 5 and quinoline yellow. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice and methylene blue. A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect.
This effect is different from a simple conventional hue effect, i.e. a unified and stabilized effect as produced by standard dyestuffs, for instance monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, the term "stabilized" means lacking an effect of variability of the colour as a function of the angle of observation or alternatively in response to a temperature change.
For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic tint, goniochromatic colouring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibres, especially interference fibres. Needless to say, these various materials may be combined so as to simultaneously afford two effects, or even a novel effect in accordance with the invention. The particles with a metallic tint that may be used in the invention are chosen in particular from:
- particles of at least one metal and/or of at least one metal derivative,
- particles comprising a mono-material or multi-material organic or mineral substrate, at least partially coated with at least one coat with a metallic tint comprising at least one metal and/or at least one metal derivative, and
- mixtures of the said particles.
Among the metals that may be present in the said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te and Se, and mixtures or alloys thereof. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo and Cr and mixtures or alloys thereof (for example bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.
The term "metal derivatives" is intended to denote compounds derived from metals, especially oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides.
As illustrations of these particles, mention may be made of aluminium particles, such as those sold under the names Starbrite 1200 EAC® by the company Siberline, and Metalure® by the company Eckart.
Mention may also be made of copper metal powders or alloy mixtures such as the references 2844 sold by the company Radium Bronze, metallic pigments such as aluminium or bronze, such as those sold under the name Rotosafe 700 from the company Eckart, the silica-coated aluminium particles sold under the name Visionaire Bright Silver from the company Eckart and metal alloy particles, for instance the silica-coated bronze (alloy of copper and zinc) powders sold under the name Visionaire Bright Natural Gold from the company Eckart. They may also be particles comprising a glass substrate, such as those sold by the company Nippon Sheet Glass under the name Microglass Metashine.
The goniochromatic colouring agent may be chosen, for example, from multilayer interference structures and liquid-crystal colouring agents.
Examples of symmetrical multilayer interference structures that may be used in the compositions prepared in accordance with the invention are, for example, the following structures: Al/SiCVAl/SiCVAl, pigments having this structure being sold by the company Dupont de Nemours; Cr/MgF2/Al/MgF2/Cr, pigments having this structure being sold under the name Chromaflair by the company Flex; MoS2ZSiO2ZAlZSiO2ZMoS2; Fe2O3ZSiO2ZAlZSiO2ZFe2O3, and Fe2O3ZSiO2ZFe2O3ZSiO2ZFe2O3, pigments having these structures being sold under the name Sicopearl by the company BASF; MoS2ZSiO2Zmica- oxideZSiO2ZMoS2; Fe2O3ZSiO2Zmica-oxideZSiO2ZFe2O3; TiO2ZSiO2ZTiO2 and TiO2ZAl2O3ZTiO2; SnOZTiO2ZSiO2ZTiO2ZSnO; Fe2O3ZSiO2ZFe2O3; SnOZmicaZTiO2ZSiO2ZTiθ2ZmicaZSnO, pigments having these structures being sold under the name Xirona by the company Merck (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments may be the pigments of silicaZtitanium oxideZtin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Magic by the company Merck, the pigments of silicaZbrown iron oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Indian Summer by the company Merck and the pigments of silicaZtitanium oxideZmicaZtin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Caribbean Blue by the company Merck. Mention may also be made of the Infinite Colors pigments from the company Shiseido. Depending on the thickness and the nature of the various layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the Fe2O3ZSiO2ZAlZSiO2ZFe2O3 structure, the colour changes from green-golden to red-grey for SiO2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for SiO2 layers of 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO2 layers of 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO2 layers of 430 to 440 nm.
Examples of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure that may be mentioned include those sold by the company 3M under the name Color Glitter. Examples of liquid-crystal gonio chromatic particles that may be used include those sold by the company Chenix and also the product sold under the name Helicone® HC by the company Wacker.
A composition of the invention may comprise from 0.005% to 20% by weight, especially from 0.01% to 10%, from 0.1% to 6% and especially from 1% to 4% by weight of dyestuffs relative to the total weight of the composition.
FILLERS
A composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one filler, of organic or mineral nature, which especially makes it possible to impart thereto improved stability with regard to exudation and improved migration-resistance properties after application. The term "filler" should be understood as meaning colourless or white solid particles of any form, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Being of mineral or organic nature they make it possible to impart body or rigidity to the composition, and/or softness and uniformity to the makeup. The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular or spherical form, fibres or in any other form intermediate between these defined forms.
The fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluoro derivatives or any other substance that promotes the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.
For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "mineral fillers" and "inorganic fillers" are used interchangeably.
Among the mineral fillers that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, trimethyl siloxysilicate, kaolin, bentone, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydrogen carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads from
Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, silica-based fillers such as Aerosil 200 and
Aerosil 300; Sunsphere L-31 and Sunsphere H-31 sold by Asahi Glass; Chemicelen sold by Asahi Chemical; composites of silica and of titanium dioxide, for instance the TSG series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass, and mixtures thereof.
Among the organic fillers that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of polyamide powders (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), poly-β-alanine powder and polyethylene powder, polytetrafluoroethylene powders (Teflon®), lauroyllysine, starch, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, hollow polymer microspheres such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate, Polypore® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), silicone resin microbeads (for example Tospearl® from Toshiba), polyurethane powders, in particular powders of crosslinked polyurethane comprising a copolymer, the said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyllactone. In particular, it may be a polymer of hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyllactone. Such particles are especially commercially available, for example, under the name Plastic Powder D-400® or Plastic Powder D-800® from the company Toshiki, and mixtures thereof.
A composition of the invention may comprise from 1% to 20% by weight of fillers relative to the total weight of the composition, especially from 5% to 15% by weight and more particularly from 6% to 10% by weight of fillers relative to the total weight of the composition.
ADDITIVES A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field under consideration, chosen, for example, from water, gums and elastomers, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, dispersants, semi-crystalline polymers, film-forming agents and film-forming auxiliaries, hydrophilic and lipophilic gelling agents, antioxidants, essential oils, preserving agents, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptic agents, UV stabilizers, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen protectors, and mixtures thereof.
According to one embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 3% by weight of water, or even less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, or even is anhydrous. The term "anhydrous" especially means that water is not deliberately added to the composition, but does not exclude the possibility of water being present in trace amount in the various compounds used in the composition.
A person skilled in the art can, via routine operations, adjust the nature and amounts of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the invention, such that the desired cosmetic properties and makeup performance, such as the colour intensity, the gloss and the gloss remanence, the homogeneity, and the mechanical and heat stability of these compositions, are not thereby adversely affected.
A composition of the invention may be obtained via any preparation process known to those skilled in the art. GLOSS, STAYING POWER, MIGRATION, STABILITY
The gloss, the staying power and the migration are evaluated in vivo using a Chromasphere SEI-M-02232-Chro-O machine as described in patent application FR 2 829 344. The staying power of a cosmetic composition reflects its ability to withstand mechanical or physical stresses, such as rubbing or stretching of the made-up surface.
The staying power of a composition of the invention may be evaluated via various protocols, for example in vivo using a Chromasphere SEI-M-02232-Chro-O machine.
The evaluation of the staying power is performed in the following manner: the staying power is evaluated after a series of tests that consist in applying two "kisses" to a paper handkerchief, drinking a hot drink and then a cold drink and eating two mouthfuls of a sandwich and an apple.
The gloss is evaluated in vivo just after application of the formulation and then one hour after application. The migration is evaluated one hour after application.
The formulations are applied to the lips of a panel of seven individuals with light, fleshy lips and the measurements are taken using the Chromasphere machine.
Alternatively, the properties mentioned hereinabove may also be evaluated in vitro according to any protocol known to those skilled in the art. The stability of a composition of the invention with respect to exudation (or syneresis) may be evaluated by placing the composition in an oven for eight weeks at 25°C. In this test, the physical appearance of the sample is checked at the moment that it is placed in the chamber. The sample is then checked at 24 hours, at three days, at one week, at two weeks, at four weeks and finally at eight weeks. The stability may also be evaluated by repeating the eight-week cycle in the oven at 4°C, 37°C, 47°C and 500C, and under freezing/thawing conditions.
At the end of the stability test under consideration, the sample is checked as regards its physical appearance, its form (it is examined to see whether it has folded, if the composition is in the form of a lipstick stick or wand, or if it has twisted), the phase separation, the melting or the syneresis (exudation), or alternatively the recrystallization of the waxes at the surface.
For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "syneresis" or "exudation" are used interchangeably and correspond to the appearance of droplets at the surface of the composition, which are visible to the naked eye.
The present invention will be understood more clearly with the aid of the examples that follow.
These examples are given as illustrations of the invention and should not be interpreted as limiting the scope thereof.
EXAMPLES
Examples IA and IB: Solid lipstick formulations
Figure imgf000054_0001
Figure imgf000055_0001
Procedure:
The compositions are prepared as follows:
The oils, the waxes and the pigmentary paste are weighed out and then heated to 98-1000C (internal temperature) in a jacketed heating pan, using an oil bath. The molten mixture is stirred using a Rayneri blender, the optional nacres are then incorporated and the mixture is stirred for about 30 minutes. The mixture is then poured into a preheated silicone-coated metallic lipstick mould and then placed in a freezer, and removed from the mould at about 4°C. Results:
From an evaluation of formulations IA and IB by beauticians in terms of cosmetic properties and makeup result after in vivo application to 6 women as a half-lip application, the application being performed by the action for applying a stick of lipstick, a good level of gloss and good gloss staying power are expected for these compositions.
For the composition according to the invention, IA, the production of a more uniform deposit than for the comparative composition IB is expected. In addition, composition IB migrates more quickly than composition IA.
Furthermore, better heat stability is expected for composition IA according to the invention than for the comparative example IB, in particular if the compositions are placed at 47°C for 8 weeks. For the comparative example IB, poor stability of the stick is observed, and especially exudation of the oils is observed. Composition IA according to the invention is expected to remain stable.
Examples 2A and 2B: Solid lipstick formulations
Figure imgf000056_0001
Figure imgf000057_0001
Compositions 2A and 2B were prepared according to the same protocol as that described previously.
From an evaluation of formulations 2 A and 2B by beauticians in terms of cosmetic properties and makeup result after in vivo application to 6 women as half-lip tests, the application being performed by the action for applying a stick of lipstick, a good level of gloss and good gloss staying power are expected for these compositions.
For composition 2A according to the invention, the production of a deposit that shows a better level of gloss than the comparative composition 2B, and also good gloss staying power, are expected. Furthermore, composition 2A according to the invention is expected to have better heat stability than that of the comparative example 2B, in particular if the compositions are placed at 47°C for 8 weeks. For the comparative example 2B, poor stability of the stick is observed, and especially exudation of the oils is observed, and the stick has a tendency to become soft. Composition 2A according to the invention is expected to remain stable.
Examples 3A and 3B: Lipstick formulations in stick form
Figure imgf000058_0001
Figure imgf000059_0001
Procedure:
Compositions 3A and 3B are prepared according to the protocol described previously.
Results:
The gloss, the staying power and the migration are evaluated in vivo using a Chromasphere SEI-M-02232-Chro-O machine as described in patent application FR 2 829 344 and as described previously.
The following values were measured:
Figure imgf000059_0002
With formulation 3A according to the invention, better results are expected than for the comparative composition 3B, both in terms of immediate gloss and in terms of gloss one hour after application. The composition of example 3 A is also not expected to migrate.
Finally, good stability is also expected for composition 3A placed for 8 weeks at
47°C, whereas for the comparative composition 3B, poor stability of the stick is observed under these conditions, and in particular exudation of the oils is observed and the stick has a tendency to soften. Composition 3 A according to the invention is expected to remain stable.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one phenyl silicone oil and at least one wax, the said wax comprising at least one diester of a C12-C18 dicarboxylic acid and Of Ci6-C22 alcohols.
2. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the said wax has a melting point ranging from 73°C to 76°C.
3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the said wax comprises at least one diester of a Ci 8 dicarboxylic acid, which is preferably linear and saturated, and of CiS-C22 alcohols, which are preferably linear and saturated.
4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the said wax comprises a mixture of distearyl octadecanedioate, dibehenyl octadecanedioate and dieicosyl octadecanedioate.
5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the said wax is present in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, in particular from 1.5% to 16% by weight, and more particularly from 2% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the said wax and the said phenyl silicone oil are present in a weight ratio wax of diester of a C12-C18 dicarboxylic acid and Of Ci6-C22 alcohols/oil ranging from 1/20 to 1/1, in particular from 1/10 to 1/3, and more particularly from 1/15 to 1/8.
7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the phenyl silicone oil is chosen from the oils of formula (VII), and mixtures thereof:
Figure imgf000060_0001
in which:
-Ri to R6, independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals,
-m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum "n + m" is between 1 and 100.
8. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein Ri to R6, independently of each other, represent a saturated, linear or branched C1-C30 and especially
Ci -C 12 hydrocarbon-based radical, and in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radical, and in that m = 1 or 2 or 3 and/or n = 0 and/or p = 0 or 1.
9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the phenyl silicone oil is present in a content ranging from 1% to 70% by weight, in particular from 2% to 60% by weight, and more particularly from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the said composition comprising at least one additional wax other than the said wax of a diester of a C12-C18 dicarboxylic acid and of C16-C22 alcohols preferably chosen from ester waxes, polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, and mixtures thereof.
11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the said composition further comprising at least one pasty compound chosen from polyvinyl laurate, hydrogenated plant oils, and mixtures thereof.
12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the said composition comprising at least one glossy oil with a high molar mass ranging from 650 to
10 000 g/mol.
13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the said composition further comprising at least one dyestuff and/or one filler.
14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the said composition comprising less than 3%, or better still, less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably being totally anhydrous.
15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the said composition being a lipstick.
16. Process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, comprising at least one step that consists in applying to the said keratin materials at least one coat of a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 15.
17. Use, in a cosmetic composition, of at least one mixture comprising at least one phenyl silicone oil and at least one wax comprising at least one diester of a C12-C18 dicarboxylic acid and of C16-C22 alcohols, for giving the said composition improved stability and gloss.
PCT/IB2010/051253 2009-03-23 2010-03-23 Cosmetic composition comprising a diester wax WO2010109409A2 (en)

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FR0951831A FR2943243B1 (en) 2009-03-23 2009-03-23 COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A DIESTER WAX AND ESTER HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OIL
FR0951832 2009-03-23
FR0951833 2009-03-23
FR0951832A FR2943244B1 (en) 2009-03-23 2009-03-23 COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A DIESTER WAX, POLAR OIL AND APOLAR OIL
FR0951833A FR2943245B1 (en) 2009-03-23 2009-03-23 COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A DIESTER WAX AND A PHENYLATED SILICONE OIL
FR0951831 2009-03-23
US20269709P 2009-03-27 2009-03-27
US20269409P 2009-03-27 2009-03-27
US20269309P 2009-03-27 2009-03-27
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WO2016048274A1 (en) * 2014-09-23 2016-03-31 Colgate-Palmolive Company Non-greasy personal care compositions
WO2016048425A1 (en) * 2014-09-23 2016-03-31 Colgate-Palmolive Company Non-greasy personal care compositions
US10470999B2 (en) 2014-09-23 2019-11-12 Colgate-Palmolive Company Non-greasy personal care compositions
US10470998B2 (en) 2014-09-23 2019-11-12 Colgate-Palmolive Company Non-greasy personal care compositions
US11433018B2 (en) 2014-09-23 2022-09-06 Colgate-Palmolive Company Non-greasy personal care compositions
JP2016108280A (en) * 2014-12-08 2016-06-20 ロレアル Composition containing hydrocarbon oil, aromatic silicone oil, wax, and pasty fat substance
US11969496B2 (en) 2022-07-27 2024-04-30 Colgate-Palmolive Company Non-greasy personal care compositions

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