WO2010010295A2

WO2010010295A2 - Long-lasting coloured cosmetic composition

Info

Publication number: WO2010010295A2
Application number: PCT/FR2009/051466
Authority: WO
Inventors: Claudia Barba; Pascaline Cordelette
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2008-07-21
Filing date: 2009-07-21
Publication date: 2010-01-28
Also published as: FR2933865A1; WO2010010295A3; FR2933865B1

Abstract

The present invention relates to coloured cosmetic compositions for the make-up and/or care of the skin or lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least 1% by weight of pigments, relative to the total weight of the composition, and at least one volatile solvent such as a volatile linear alkane or alkanes in an amount ranging from 4% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, the compositions having a covering power of greater than or equal to 40.

Description

Long-lasting colored cosmetic composition

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions for the make-up and / or care of the skin or lips, and more particularly for the make-up of the lips. In particular, the present invention relates to colored cosmetic compositions comprising a high content of pigments, in particular based on titanium dioxide and iron oxide.

In addition to the cosmetic properties such as the coloring, shine, or coverage to which the makeup compositions must comply, these must also be satisfactory both in terms of resistance over time and comfort to the application.

The behavior over time reflects the ability of a cosmetic composition to maintain its integrity following various mechanical or physical stresses, such as friction or stretching of the masked surface. Comfort at the application is reflected in particular by a lack of tightness, feeling of dryness and / or sticky or greasy sensations.

Usually, these holding properties can be conferred on the cosmetic compositions by the use of volatile solvents, generally synthetic solvents, such as volatile silicone oils or volatile isoparaffins. However, such solvents can induce a feeling of drying and tugging during their evaporation. In addition, after evaporation of these solvents, the holding properties over time of the cosmetic compositions are no longer provided properly.

Moreover, make-up compositions, in particular such as lipsticks or glosses, are rich in coloring matters, such as pigments.

However, a high content of pigments and the presence of volatile solvents can lead to instability of the composition resulting in phenomena of heterogeneity and marbling of the color.

Solvents, of synthetic origin, can also be the cause of sensitivity or allergy reactions to users. There is thus an increasing tendency among users to want makeup compositions whose formulations include natural or natural raw materials.

However, these natural or natural raw materials, for example vegetable oils, have a high polarity, sources of interactions with the other constituents of these compositions, such as pigments and volatile solvents.

Such interactions may also affect the stabilities of these compositions and substantially alter the homogeneity of their color.

Therefore, there is a need to be able to have new volatile solvents capable of giving the makeup compositions improved durability while giving a feeling of comfort to the application.

There is a need to replace the synthetic volatile solvents usually used in cosmetic compositions with volatile solvents of natural origin. There is still a need for volatile solvents which are satisfactory both in terms of safety for the user and in terms of the environment.

There is still a need for volatile solvents for stably formulating makeup compositions rich in dyestuffs, and especially pigments.

There is still a need for volatile solvents for stably formulating makeup compositions rich in pigments and polar phases.

The object of the present invention is to satisfy these needs. Thus, according to one of its first objects, the invention relates to a colored cosmetic composition for the make-up and / or care of the skin or the lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least 1% by weight of pigments relative to to the total weight of the composition and at least one volatile linear alkane and / or a volatile volatile alkane (s) linear (s) volatile (s) at C9 to C5 at a content ranging from 4% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition having a coverage greater than or equal to 40. Unexpectedly, the inventors have observed that the implementation in a cosmetic make-up composition of at least one volatile linear alkane and / or a volatile solvent of linear alkane type (s) volatile (s) in C ₉ at Ci 5 in a varying content of

4% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition makes it possible to confer on these compositions an improved behavior over time.

In particular, the inventors have observed that the use of a volatile linear alkane and / or a volatile solvent of linear alkane (s) linear (s) volatile (s) C9 to C ₁ S, such as by n-undecane, n-tridecane, or a mixture thereof, in a content of at least 4% and not exceeding 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, made it possible to formulate cosmetic compositions colored stains rich in coloring matter, and in particular in pigments, and exhibiting improved stability over time and stability.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "linear alkane", an unbranched linear alkane as opposed to branched alkanes. Advantageously, the inventors have observed that the homogeneity of the color of the compositions of the invention is maintained in compositions rich in polar phase and in pigments.

According to another of its advantages, a composition of the invention is satisfactory both in terms of safety vis-à-vis users, as well as the environment.

According to another of its advantages, a composition of the invention is satisfactory in terms of comfort to the application.

According to yet another of its objects, the present invention relates to a colored cosmetic composition for the make-up and / or care of the skin or the lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one pigment and at least one volatile linear alkane. and / or a volatile solvent of alkane (s) linear (s) the volatile (s) C9-C ₁ s, said pigment being titanium dioxide, said composition having a greater coverage or equal to 40.

According to yet another of its objects, the present invention relates to a colored cosmetic composition for the make-up and / or care of the skin or the lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one pigment and at least one volatile linear alkane. and / or a volatile solvent of linear alkane type (s) volatile (s) are Cg to C _15, said composition comprising a lower or equal water content to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, a pigment that is suitable for the invention may be based on titanium oxide and iron oxide. According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to the use in a cosmetic composition comprising at least 1% by weight of pigments relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one volatile linear alkane and / or a volatile solvent of volatile linear alkane (s) type (s) volatile (s) C9 to C ₁ 5 in a content ranging from 4% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, to give said composition a behavior over time improved.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for makeup and / or care of the skin or lips comprising at least the application on the skin or the lips of at least one layer of a composition according to the invention .

A composition of the invention may also be in the form of a colored makeup composition for the skin or the lips, in particular for lip makeup such as a lipstick, especially in the form of a stick or a stick, a gloss , a lip balm, a repulper or a lip liner.

According to another variant embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise more than 50% or even more than 70% by weight or be exclusively formulated by means of natural compounds or of natural origin.

"Natural compound" means a compound that is obtained directly from the soil or soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as, for example, grinding. , refining, distillation, purification or filtration. By compounds "of natural origin" is meant a natural compound having undergone one or more chemical or industrial treatments annexes, causing changes not affecting the essential qualities of this compound and / or a compound comprising predominantly natural constituents having or not undergone transformations, as indicated above. By way of non-limiting example of chemical or industrial treatments which produce modifications which do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, mention may be made of those authorized by control bodies such as Ecocert. (Referential of organic and ecological cosmetics, January 2003) or defined in recognized manuals in the field, such as "Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine", 2005, vol. 120, 9: 10.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "synthetic or artificial compound" means a compound that does not satisfy the definitions of the natural or natural compounds indicated above.

HELD IN TIME

The behavior in time of a cosmetic composition reflects its ability to withstand mechanical or physical stresses, such as friction or stretching of the makeup surface.

The behavior in time of a cosmetic composition according to the invention may be evaluated according to the protocol described below.

The holding of a composition of the invention can be evaluated using instrumental and sensory methods as indicated below on a panel of qualified persons applying a composition of the invention.

The evaluation of the behavior takes place as follows: - initially, an evaluation of the behavior is carried out one hour after the application of the composition on the lips, - in a second time, the behavior is evaluated after a series of tests consisting of making two "kisses" on a tissue, drinking a hot drink and a cold drink and eating two bites of a sandwich and an apple.

Instrumental performance is rated on a scale of 1 to 100: 1 is a formula that does not hold at all and 100 is a formula that holds very well. The difference between two compositions compared to each other is significant if it is greater than or equal to 10.

Migration, brightness and comfort are evaluated by a panel of qualified people on the basis of semi-quantitative interviews.

The brightness is evaluated just after the application of the formula and then one hour after application.

Migration and comfort are evaluated one hour after application. Alternatively, the brightness of a composition can also be evaluated in vitro according to any protocol known to those skilled in the art.

As an example of a protocol that is suitable for the invention, the following protocol may be mentioned. A deposit of the composition is formed on a colored support. Such a support may advantageously have a color close to that of the region of the body or face on which the composition is intended to be applied, for example a substantially brick-red color in the case of a deposit on the lips (L * = 37 ± 3, a * = 15 ± 2, b * = 11 ± 2 in CIE space L * a * b * 1976). The intensity of specular reflection and diffuse reflection are then measured using a GRM2000 gonio-reflectometer (MICROMODULE) using an azimuthal illumination angle of 30 ° to the normal of the sample. , a detection angle of the specular reflection (R) of -30 ° and a diffuse reflection detection angle (D) of 0 °. Then the brightness value is calculated from the specular reflection and diffuse reflection intensities thus measured.

The intensity of the specular reflection may in particular be weighted by that of the diffuse reflection, the brightness being advantageously taken equal to the ratio R / D.

Such a protocol can also be implemented in vivo.

THE COVERAGE

As specified above, a composition of the invention may have a coverage greater than or equal to 40, even greater than or equal to about 45, in particular greater than or equal to about 50, in particular greater than or equal to about 60, more particularly greater than or equal to at about 80, in particular ranging from 90 to 100, or even about 100.

This coverage can be measured by one of the methods described below according to the liquid or solid nature of the composition to be characterized. - Liquid compositions (at 25 ^° C.)

By "liquid composition" is meant a composition whose viscosity can be measured at 25 ^° C. A liquid composition can flow under the effect of its own weight. The coverage of the compositions is measured at a finite thickness of 50 μm for the liquid compositions at 25 ^° C. to be applied to the lips, in particular liquid lipsticks, liquid lip glosses and liquid lip balms, and at a thickness of 150 μm for eye shadows, liquid foundations, mascaras and other liquid make-up products not intended to be applied to the lips. The composition is spread on matt black and matte white contrast cards, for example LENETA Form WPl for the matte black card and Leneta IA for the matte white card.

The application can be performed with an automatic spreader. The measurements are carried out on the compositions thus spread.

- Solid composition (at 25 ^° C.)

Solid compositions are those whose viscosity can not be measured. It may be compositions cast in a stick or powder form, in the form of free or compact powders. a) For powdery solid compositions, free or compacted, the composition is applied using the same contrast cards as above, covered with a transparent tape, slightly rough, for example brand BLENDERM ^® 3M company and 15025, glued by the adhesive side on the contrast cards. The composition is deposited on the adhesive tape so as to obtain a homogeneous deposit of 0.5 mg / cm ² ± 0.02 mg / cm ^2. b) The stick compositions are melted, for example at 90 ⁰ C, then plated in the liquid state with the card mat mat black and white contrast, for example the same reference numerals as above, not covered with BLENDERM® ^®. The spreading bar is maintained at the same temperature as the composition, so as to avoid thermal shock. The stick compositions for application to the lips are thus deposited once melted with a thickness of 50 microns. The other compositions are spread with a thickness of 150 microns.

- Measurements and calculations

Reflectance spectra are acquired using a spectrocolorimeter

MINOLTA 3700-d (measurement geometry diffuse and observation D65 / 1O ^0, specular component excluded mode, small aperture (CREISS)) on black and white backgrounds, the contrast cards optionally being covered BLENDERM® as indicated above.

The spectra are expressed in colorimetric coordinates in the CIELab76 space within the meaning of the International Commission on Illumination according to Recommendation 15: 2004.

The contrast ratio, or coverage, is calculated by averaging Y on a black background, divided by the average value of Y on a white background, multiplied by 100.

VOLATILE SOLVENT TYPE ALKANE (S) LINEAR (S) VOLATILE (S)

A composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile linear alkane and / or a volatile solvent linear alkane (s) linear (s) volatile, the volatile linear alkanes being as defined below.

For the purposes of the invention, the term volatile solvent of linear alkane type (s) volatile (s), a solvent comprising a single volatile linear alkane type compound or a mixture of volatile linear alkane type compounds. A volatile volatile alkane (s) linear solvent (s) is essentially composed of volatile linear alkane (s) as described below.

By 'essentially' it is meant that the volatile alkane (s) volatile (s) volatile solvent (s) comprises at least 80% by weight, preferably at least 90% by weight and better still at least 95% or at least 98% by weight of linear alkane (s) volatile (s) relative to the total weight of hydrocarbons in said solvent.

A volatile linear alkane and / or a volatile linear alkane solvent (s) volatile (s) between (ent) in the composition of a liquid fatty phase of a composition according to the invention, especially in the oil phase (s) hydrocarbon (s), and more particularly in the oil phase (s) of hydrocarbons.

According to one embodiment, a volatile linear alkane and / or volatile solvent of linear alkane type (s) volatile (s) suitable for the invention may have a volatility such that the amount of solvent evaporated in 30 minutes to 25 ° C is less than 24 mg / cm ² , and in particular is in the range of 2.4 to 18 mg / cm ² , in particular

3 to 12 mg / cm ² , and more particularly from 3.3 to 6 mg / cm ² .

A volatility of less than 0.8 mg / cm ² / min at 25 ° C advantageously makes it possible to confer on a composition of the invention an improved behavior over time. The volatility of a volatile linear alkane and / or a volatile solvent of linear alkane type (s) volatile (s) according to the invention can be evaluated in particular by means of the protocol described in WO 06/013413, and more particularly by means of the protocol described below.

Is introduced into a crystallizer (diameter: 7 cm) placed on a balance in a chamber of about 0.3 m regulated temperature (25 ⁰ C) and humidity (relative humidity 50%) 15 g linear alkane volatile and / or volatile solvent volatile linear alkane (s) type (s).

The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, providing ventilation by a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 revolutions / minute) arranged in a vertical position above the crystallizer containing linear volatile linear and / or a volatile solvent of linear alkane type (s) volatile (s) the blades being directed to the crystallizer, at a distance of 20 cm from the bottom of the crystallizer.

The mass of volatile linear alkane and / or volatile solvent of volatile linear alkane type (s) remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular time intervals. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of volatile linear alkane and / or volatile solvent volatile linear alkane type (s) evaporated per unit area (cm ² ) and per unit of time (minute ).

According to one embodiment, a volatile linear alkane and / or volatile solvent of linear alkane type (s) volatile (s) suitable for the invention may have a flash point in the range of 70 to 120 ⁰ C, and more particularly from 80 to 100 ⁰ C, and in particular to be about 89 ⁰ C. In particular, a volatile solvent of the volatile linear alkane type (s) may comprise at least one volatile linear alkane chosen from volatile linear alkanes comprising from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, and in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms. carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms. A volatile linear alkane and / or a volatile solvent of linear alkane (s) volatile (s) Cg to Cu can / can be of plant origin.

Such an alkane can be obtained, directly or in several stages, from a vegetable raw material such as an oil, a butter, a wax, etc.

As examples of alkanes that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in the patent application of Cognis WO 2007/068371.

These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil.

In particular, a composition of the invention may comprise a volatile linear alkane (s) volatile solvent (s) comprising at least one volatile linear alkane selected from n-nonane (C9), n-dodecane ( ClO), n-undecane (Cl), n-dodecane (Cl2), n-tridecane (Cl3), n-tetradecane (Cl4), n-pentadecane (Cl5), and mixtures thereof.

More particularly, a volatile organic solvent (s) linear (s) volatile (s) suitable for the invention may comprise a mixture n-undecane / n-tridecane. Preferably, in such a mixture, the n-undecane: n-tridecane weight ratio can be from 50:50 to 90:10, preferably from 60:40 to 80:20, preferably from 65:35 to 75:25. .

In particular, a composition according to the invention may comprise a volatile solvent of the volatile linear alkane type (s) comprising a n-undecane: n-tridecane mixture in a weight ratio of 70:30.

In particular, a composition of the invention may comprise a volatile alkane (s) linear (s) volatile (s) comprising a mixture of volatile linear alkanes containing n-undecane (CI 1) and n-tridecane (C13), in particular marketed under the reference of CETIOL UT by the company Cognis. A composition of the invention may comprise from 0.5% to 40% by weight of volatile organic solvent (s) linear (s) linear (s) volatile (s), in particular from 4% to 30% by weight, in particular of 8% to 20% by weight, and more particularly 10 to 15% by weight of volatile solvent alkane (s) linear (s) volatile (s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, a composition of the invention may comprise from 4% to 40% by weight of volatile solvent of linear alkane type (s) volatile (s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise, in addition to at least one volatile linear alkane and / or a volatile linear alkane (s) volatile solvent (s) as described above, at least another additional volatile solvent different from a volatile solvent of linear alkane type (s) linear (s).

An additional volatile solvent may be selected from alcohols, volatile oils as described below, and especially as isododecane, and mixtures thereof.

According to an alternative embodiment, these additional volatile solvents may also be of natural origin. As volatile alcohols that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of ethanol, propanol, isopropanol and butanol, and mixtures thereof.

According to another embodiment, in addition to the volatile linear alkane and / or volatile solvent of linear alkane type (s) volatile (s) used in the compositions of the invention, can be used as a additional volatile solvent an alcohol, such as ethanol, to impart to the compositions of the invention an improved structure and rigidity to the formula, as well as a feeling of freshness upon application.

As volatile oils that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the oils described below.

The volatile oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6 -pentaméthylheptane) isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade names or Permethyls® ISOPARS ^® ^®, or cyclic alkanes such as cyclohexane. Advantageously, in addition to the volatile linear alkane and / or the volatile solvent of linear alkane type (s) volatile (s) used in the compositions of the invention, it is possible to associate an additional volatile solvent such as isododecane to impart improved non-transfer properties.

Volatile silicones can also be used as volatile oils, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those having a viscosity <8 centistokes (cSt) (8 × 10 ^-6 m ² / s), and having, in particular, from 2 to

10 silicon atoms, and in particular 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As the volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made, in particular, of dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. It is also possible to use fluorinated volatile oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof. A composition according to the invention may comprise an additional volatile solvent in a content ranging from 1% to 20%, in particular from 5% to 18%, and more particularly from 8% to 10%.

According to an alternative embodiment, a composition of the invention comprises less than 5% or even less than 2% by weight of isododecane relative to the total weight of the composition, or even is devoid of isododecane.

COLORING MATERIALS

A composition of the invention comprises at least one pigment, in a content of at least 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. A pigment that is suitable for the invention may be chosen from inorganic pigments and organic pigments.

By pigments within the meaning of the invention is meant white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting makeup film. The pigments also include nacres or pearlescent pigments. The pigments may be present in a proportion of from 0.1 to 15% by weight, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, and in particular from 2 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Preferably, a composition of the invention may comprise at least 1%, and in particular from 1% to 15% by weight of pigments relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

According to another embodiment, a composition according to the invention may comprise from 1% to 30% by weight of pigments relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. As inorganic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and Chromium hydrate.

According to one embodiment, titanium oxides and iron oxides are more particularly considered in the invention. According to one embodiment, a pigment that is suitable for the invention may in particular be based on titanium dioxide and iron oxide.

It may also be a pigment having a structure which may for example be sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica. Such a pigment is marketed for example under the reference COVERLEAF NS or JS by CHEMICALS AND CATALYSTS and has a contrast ratio of about 30.

A pigment suitable for the invention may comprise a structure which may be, for example, silica microsphere type containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is that marketed by MIYOSHI under the reference PC BALL PC-LL-100P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.

Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or diketo pyrrolopyrroles (DPP). ) described in EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A-96/08537. "Nacres" or "pearlescent pigments" must be understood to mean colored particles of any shape, iridescent or otherwise, produced in particular by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.

Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of mother-of-pearl TIMICA, FLAMENCO and DUOCHROME (based on mica) marketed by ENGELHARD, TIMIRON pearls marketed by MERCK, mother-of-pearl containing PRESTIGE mica marketed by the company. ECKART and nacres based on SUNSHINE synthetic mica sold by the company SUN CHEMICAL.

The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection.

As an illustration of nacres that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may in particular be made of gold-colored nacres, in particular, sold by the company Engelhard under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres, in particular, sold by the company Merck under the names Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen, in particular, marketed by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); mother-of-pearl red reflection, in particular, sold by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); nacres with yellow glints, in particular, sold by Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromante); nacres of red hue with gold glare, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone GO 12 (Gemtone); pink nacres, in particular, marketed by Engelhard under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); black nacres with gold reflection, sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue pearls, in particular, sold by MERCK under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), white nacres with silvery reflection, in particular, sold by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by MERCK under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.

According to an alternative embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise, as pigments, a pigment chosen from titanium dioxide, pigments based on titanium dioxide and iron oxide, or pigments based on dioxide. titanium, such as sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica, natural mica coated with titanium oxide, and mixtures thereof.

A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain, as pigment, at least one material with a specific optical effect.

This effect is different from a simple conventional hue effect, i.e. unified and stabilized as produced by conventional dyestuffs, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of effect of color variability with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.

For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic sheen, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and especially interferential fibers. The particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are chosen in particular from: particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, the particles comprising an organic or inorganic, monomatiere or multimaterial substrate, at least partially covered by at least one metal-reflecting layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and the mixtures of said particles. Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te. Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (e.g., bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

"Metal derivatives" means compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulphides.

Illustrative of these particles include aluminum particles, such as those sold under the names Starbrite 1200 EAC ^® by Siberline and METALURE® ^® by the company Eckart.

Mention may also be made of copper metal powders or mixtures of alloys, such as the references 2844 sold by the company Radium Bronze, metallic pigments, such as aluminum or bronze, such as those sold under the trade names ROTOSAFE 700 company ECKART, the silica-coated aluminum particles marketed under the name VISIONAIRE

BRIGHT SILVER from ECKART and metal alloy particles, such as silica-coated bronze (zinc alloy) powders marketed under the name of Visionaire Bright Natural GoId from Eckart.

It may also be particles comprising a glass substrate such as those sold by the company NIPPON SHEET GLASS under the names MICROGLASS METASHINE. The goniochromatic coloring agent may be selected from, for example, interfering multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents.

Examples of symmetrical interferential multilayer structures that can be used in compositions produced according to the invention are, for example, the following structures: Al / SiO ₂ / Al / SiO ₂ / Al, pigments having this structure being marketed by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS; Cr / MgF ₂ / Al / MgF ₂ / Cr, pigments having this structure being marketed under the name CHROMAFLAIR by the company FLEX; MoS ₂ / SiO ₂ / Al / SiO ₂ / MoS ₂ ; Fe ₂ O ₃ ZSiO ₂ ZAl ₂ SiO ₂ ZFe ₂ O ₃ , and Fe ₂ O ₃ ZSiO ₂ ZFe ₂ O ₃ ZSiO ₂ ZFe ₂ O ₃ , pigments having these structures being marketed under the name SICOPEARL by the company BASF; MoS ₂ ZSiO ₂ Zmica-oxide ZSiO ₂ ZMoS ₂ ; Fe ₂ O ₃ ZSiO ₂ Zmica-oxydeZSiθ2ZFe2θ3; TiO ₂ ZSiO ₂ ZTiO ₂ and TiO ₂ ZAl ₂ O ₃ ZTiO ₂ ; SnOZTiO ₂ ZSiO ₂ ZTiO ₂ ZSnO; Fe ₂ O ₃ ZSiO ₂ ZFe ₂ O ₃ ; Sn0ZmicaZTi0 ₂ ZSi0 ₂ ZTi0 ₂ ZmicaZSn0, pigments having these structures being marketed under the name XIRONA by MERCK (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments may be the pigments with a silica structure, titanium oxide, tin oxide sold under the name Xirona Magic by the company Merck, pigments with a silica structure, and brown iron oxide sold under the name Xerona Indian Summer by the company Merck. and the pigments with a silica structureZincoxideZmicaZoxide of tin sold under the name XIRONA CARRIBEAN BLUE by the company MERCK. Mention may also be made of the INFINITE COLORS pigments from SHISEIDO. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the Fe ₂ O ₃ ZSiO ₂ ZAlZ SiO ₂ ZFe ₂ O _{3 structure,} gold-green to gray-red is passed for SiO ₂ layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for SiO ₂ layers of 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO ₂ layers from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO ₂ layers from 430 to 440 nm.

Mention may be made, by way of example of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure, those marketed by the company 3M under the name COLOR GLITTER.

As liquid crystal goniochromatic particles, can be used, for example, those sold by the company Chenix and those sold under the name Helicone® ^® HC by Wacker.

A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one dyestuff that is distinct from the pigments as defined above.

Such a coloring material may be chosen from organic or inorganic, liposoluble or water-soluble dyestuffs, and mixtures thereof.

A cosmetic composition according to the invention may thus also comprise water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes. The liposo lubes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC orange 5 and yellow quinoline. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice and methylene blue. A composition in accordance with the invention may comprise, in addition, from 0.01 to 15% by weight of coloring matter other than pigments, in particular from 0.01 to 10% by weight, and in particular from 0.02 to 5% by weight. by weight of dyestuffs relative to the total weight of the composition.

ACCEPTABLE PHYSIOLOGICAL ENVIRONMENT

In addition to the compounds indicated above, a composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.

By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium that is particularly suitable for applying a composition of the invention to the skin or the lips.

The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged. A composition of the invention may be a dispersion or an emulsion.

A dispersion can be carried out in the aqueous phase or in the oily phase.

An emulsion may have an oily or aqueous continuous phase. Such an emulsion may be, for example, an inverse emulsion (W / O) or a direct emulsion (O / W), or a multiple emulsion (W / O / W or H / E / H).

AQUEOUS PHASE

A composition of the invention may comprise water.

In particular, a composition of the invention may comprise water in a content of less than or equal to 30% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 20% and more particularly less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention can be anhydrous.

An anhydrous composition may comprise less than 5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, and in particular less than 3%, especially less than 2%, and more particularly less than 1% by weight of water. relative to the total weight of the composition. More particularly, an anhydrous composition may be free of water.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may further comprise at least one organic solvent miscible with water.

The one or more solvent (s) organic (s) miscible (s) to water suitable for the invention (wind) t be selected (s) from monoalcohols C ₁ S, and in particular C ₁ S , in particular ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol, benzyl alcohol, polyols, such as sorbitol, glycols, C ₂ -Cs, polyhydric alcohols, C ₂ -CO, as glycerin, ketones C3-C _4, and C ₂ -C ₄ aldehydes, and mixtures thereof.

LIQUID FAT PHASE

A cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one liquid and / or solid fatty phase and in particular at least one oil as mentioned below.

The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20 ^° -25 ^° C.) and at atmospheric pressure.

A composition of the invention may comprise a liquid fatty phase in a content varying from 10 to 90%, in particular from 40 to 85%, in particular from 50 to 80%, and more particularly from 60 to 70% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition.

The oily phase suitable for the preparation of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon oils, hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated or otherwise, or mixtures thereof.

The oils can be volatile or nonvolatile. They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, in particular, having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ^{~ 3} to 300 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), 10 mmHg).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and, where appropriate, alcohol, acid, ester or ether functions.

A hydrocarbon oil is a hydrocarbon oil composed exclusively of hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

An oil can be a polymeric oil or a non-polymeric oil. By "polymeric oil" is meant an oil comprising at least one or consisting exclusively of molecules formed from the repetition of several identical or different monomers. As polymeric oil may be mentioned polyisobutene.

Volatile oils

A volatile oil that is suitable for the invention may advantageously be as defined above.

Non-volatile non-polymeric oils

Non-volatile non-volatile oils may, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated and / or non-volatile non-polymeric silicone oils.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, mention may notably be made of:

hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene,

hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, physostearyl isostearate and lauroyl / octyldodecyl glutamate / phytostearyl (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203), triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, in particular, whose fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C ₄ to C 36, and in particular

at C36, these oils may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils may, in particular, be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, bancoulier, passionflower oil, butter shea butter, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach almond oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, oil of baobab, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp oil , rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, oil of macadamia, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St. John's wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwifruit seed oil, pomace oil Grape, Pistachio Oil, Pumpkin Oil, Pumpkin Oil, Quinoa Oil, Rosehip Oil, Sesame Oil, Soybean Oil, Sunflower Oil , castor oil and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or caprylic acid / capric triglycerides, such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810 ^®, 812 ^® and 818 ^® by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL,

linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and their derivatives, petroleum jelly; synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula RiCOOR ₂ , in which R 1 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, branched, containing 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R 1 + R ₂ is> 10. The esters may be, in particular, chosen from alcohol and fatty acid esters, for example:

Cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, stearate or isostearate isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactact, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially heptanoate, isostearyl, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, diethyl 2-d hexanoate propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof, alcohol benzoates -C ₂ -C ₁ S, hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acid, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, the isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldocecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate di-isostearyl malate;

polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate,

branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol , and 2-undecylpentadecano 1,

the higher C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, and the di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol ^® CC by Cognis,

oils of high molar mass having, in particular, a molar mass ranging from about 400 to about 10,000 g / mol, in particular from about 650 to about 10,000 g / mol, in particular about 750 at about 7500 g / mol, and more particularly, ranging from about 1000 to about 5000 g / mol. As oil of high molar mass that can be used in the present invention, there may be mentioned oils chosen from:

Linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, the hydroxylated esters,

• aromatic esters,

Esters of C24-C28 fatty alcohols or branched fatty acids, • silicone oils,

• oils of vegetable origin,

• and their mixtures. a) esters, such as: linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW = 697 g / mol),

Hydroxylated esters, such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate (MM = 965 g / mol), aromatic esters, such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW = 757 g / mol),

• esters of fatty alcohols or branched fatty acids C ₂₄ -C ₂ 8, such as those described in U.S. Patent 6,491,927 and pentaerythritol esters, and in particular triisoarachidyl citrate (MW = 1033.76 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisonanoate (MW = 697 g / mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MW = 891 g / mol), glyceryl tri decyl-2 tetradecanoate

(MM = 143 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MM = 1202 g / mol), polyglyceryl tetraisostearate -2 (MM = 1232 g / mol) or pentaerythrityl tetra decyl-2 tetradecanoate (MM = 1538 g / mol), diol dimer esters and polyesters, such as diol dimer and fatty acid esters, b) silicone oils, such as phenyl silicones such as Belsil PDM 1000 from the company Wacker (MM. = 9000 g / mol). Other non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyls. trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone of viscosity less than or equal to 100 cSt, and mixtures thereof, and mixtures of oils a) and / or b) and / or c), fluorinated oils which may be partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based, such as fluorosilicone oils or fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847752; their mixtures.

Nonvolatile polymeric oils

The nonvolatile polymeric oils may, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated and / or polymeric nonvolatile silicone oils.

As polymeric nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil, mention may notably be made of:

linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane

- dimer diol esters and acids dimers such as Lusplan DD-DA5 ^® and Lusplan DD-DA7 ^®, marketed by Nippon Fine Chemical and described in application US 2004-175338,

copolymers of dimer diol and of dimer diacid and their esters, such as dimeric copolymers dilinoleyl diol / dimer dilinoleic and their esters, such as for example Plandool-G, copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as

Hailuscent ISDA, or the copolymer of dilinoleic acid / butanediol,

polymeric high molecular weight oils having, in particular, a molar mass of from about 400 to about 10,000 g / mol, in particular from about 650 to about 10,000 g / mol, in particular from about 750 to about 7500 g / mol, and more particularly, ranging from about 1000 to about 5000 g / mol, such as oils selected from lipophilic polymers.

For example, a high molecular weight oil can be selected from: a) lipophilic polymers, such as:

Polybutylenes, such as INDOPOL H-100 (molar mass MM = 965 g / mol), INDOPOL H-300 (MM = 1340 g / mol), INDOPOL

H-1500 (MM = 2160g / mol) marketed or manufactured by AMOCO, Polyisobutylenes, for example hydrogenated, such as PANALANE H-300 E sold or manufactured by AMOCO (MM = 1340 g / mol), Viseal 20000 marketed or manufactured by SYNTEAL (MM = 6000 g / mol) ), the REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed or manufactured by WITCO (MM = 1000 g / mol),

Hydrogenated polydecenes and polydecenes, such as: PURESYN 10 (MM = 723 g / mol), PURESYN 150 (MM = 9200 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by MOBIL CHEMICALS,

Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as: the vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer, ANTARON V-216 sold or manufactured by ISP (MM = 7300 g / mol), and polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) copolymers, such as the copolymers of a C ₂ -C ₃₀ alkene, such as C 3 -C ₂₂ , and combinations thereof, may be used. Examples of PVP copolymers that can be used in the invention include PVP / vinyl laurate, PVP / vinyl stearate copolymer, butylated PVP, PVP / hexadecene, PVP / triacontene or PVP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate,

• diol dimer and dibasic esters such as Lusplan DD-DA5 ^® and Lusplan DD-DA7 ^® marketed by Nippon Fine Chemical and described in application US 2004-175338, b) polymeric silicone oils such as non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), PDMSs containing pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or silicone chain ends, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, as well as mixtures of oils a) and / or b) fluorinated oils that may be partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers or fluorinated silicones, as described in document EP-A-847752; silicone oils such as non-volatile, linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having

2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof. fluorinated oils that may be partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based, such as fluorinated polyethers.

According to one embodiment, an oil that is suitable for the invention may advantageously be chosen from vegetable oils such as sunflower oil, canola oil, sweet almond oil, or copolymers of polyols and polyols. acid dimers and their esters, such as the dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer, silicone oils, such as dimethicone trimethyl / siloxyphenyl, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may advantageously comprise less than 10% by weight, or even less than 5% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or even be devoid of cyclic silicone oil and / or mineral oil, especially isododecane.

According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise at least 20% of volatile linear alkane and / or volatile solvent of linear alkane type (s) volatile (s) relative to the total content hydrocarbon oil of the composition.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise at least 30% or even at least 40%, in particular at least 50%, especially at least

60%, more particularly at least 70%, and more particularly at least 80%, at least 90% or 100% volatile linear alkane and / or volatile solvent volatile linear alkane type (s) relative to the total hydrocarbon oil content of the composition.

A composition of the invention comprising 100% of volatile linear alkane and / or volatile solvent of linear alkane type (s) volatile (s) relative to the total content of hydrocarbon oil comprises an oily hydrocarbon phase composed exclusively volatile linear alkane and / or volatile solvent volatile linear alkane (s) type (s). According to an alternative embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise at least 20% of volatile linear alkane and / or volatile solvent of linear alkane type (s) volatile (s) relative to the total content of hydrocarbon oil, in particular with respect to the total saturated hydrocarbon oil content, and preferably with respect to the total non-polymeric saturated hydrocarbon oil content of the composition.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise at least 30%, indeed at least 40%, in particular at least 50%, in particular at least 60%, more particularly at least 70%, and more particularly at least 80%, at least 90% or 100% volatile linear alkane and / or linear volatile alkane (s) volatile solvent (s) relative to the total hydrocarbon oil content, in particular by relative to the total saturated hydrocarbon oil content, and preferably based on the total non-polymeric saturated hydrocarbon oil content of the composition.

According to an alternative embodiment, a hydrocarbon oil considered in the embodiments described above may have a molar mass of less than 650 g / mol, and in particular less than 400 g / mol.

A composition of the invention comprising 100% volatile linear alkane and / or linear volatile alkane (s) volatile solvent (s) relative to the total content of hydrocarbon oil or oil of saturated hydrocarbons, or in non-polymeric saturated hydrocarbon oil comprises an oily phase of hydrocarbons, saturated hydrocarbons, or non-polymeric saturated hydrocarbons composed exclusively of volatile linear alkane and / or volatile solvent of alkane type (s). ) linear (s) volatile (s).

According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight of branched and / or cyclic hydrocarbon oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

LIPOPHILIC STRUCTURING AGENT

A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one structuring agent of liquid fatty phase chosen from a wax, a pasty compound, and mixtures thereof.

A composition according to the invention may comprise a content of structuring agent of liquid fatty phase ranging from 3 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular, it may contain from 5 to 25%, more particularly from 10 to 15%.

Wax (s) A composition of the invention may comprise at least one wax.

A wax that is suitable for the invention is, in general, a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ^° C.), having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30 ^° C., and up to 200 ^° C. and in particular up to 120 ^° C.

By carrying a wax in the liquid state (fusion), it is possible to render it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture macroscopically, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained in the oils of the mixture.

A wax that is suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45 ^° C., and in particular greater than or equal to 55 ^° C. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the peak the most endothermic observed in thermal analysis (DSC), as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example, the calorimeter sold under the name "MDSC 2920" by the company TA Instruments. A wax that may be used in a composition of the invention may be chosen from waxes that are solid at room temperature.

In particular, a wax that is suitable for the invention may be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral, and synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof.

Illustrative waxes suitable for the invention include hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, especially of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; the rice bran wax, the Carnauba wax, the wax of

Candelilla, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, Berry wax, Shellac wax, Wax

Japan and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

Mention may also be made of C20-C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW. Mention may also be made of polyethylene wax PM 500 marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

There may also be mentioned waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these, mention may be made of isomerized jojoba oil, such as partially hydrogenated trans isomerized jojoba oil manufactured or sold by Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50 ^®, oil hydrogenated sunflower, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin, and tetrastearate di- (trimethylol-l, l, l propane) sold under the name Hest 2T-4S ^® by the company HETERENE.

It may also be made of silicone waxes (C30- _{May 4} alkyl dimethicone) and fluorinated waxes.

One can also use waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64 and 22L73 ^® ^® by Sophim. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190.

A wax can be used (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate C _2-C ₄ 0 0 (the alkyl group containing from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in admixture.

Such a wax is especially sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P ^®", "hydroxy polyester K 82 P ^®" and "Kester Wax K 80 P ^®" by Koster Keunen.

As microwaxes that may be used in a composition of the invention, mention may be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as that sold under the name MicroCare 350 ^® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes of synthetic wax, such as that sold under the name MicroEase 114S ^® by the company MICRO POWDERS, the microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those sold under the names Micro Care 300 ^® and 310 ^® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax such as that sold under the name Micro Care 325 ^® by the company Micro Powders, microwaxes of polyethylene such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200 ^®, 220 ^® , 220L ^® and 250S ^® by the company Micro Powders, and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those sold under the names Microslip 519 ^® and 519 ^® by the company Micro Powders.

According to one embodiment, a wax suitable for the invention may, in particular, be selected from Candellila wax, refined sunflower wax, polyethylene wax, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise from 1 to 40% by weight of wax, in particular from 5 to 30%, and more particularly from 8 to 20%, or even from 10% to 15% by weight. of wax relative to the total weight of the composition.

Paste compounds

A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one pasty compound. The presence of a pasty compound may advantageously confer improved comfort during the deposition of a composition of the invention on keratinous fibers.

Such a compound may advantageously be chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives, polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds, and vinyl polymers, in particular:

• homopolymers of olefins,

• copolymers of olefins, • homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes,

Linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having an alkyl group

Homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups,

Homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups, liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100, in particular C2-C50, diols, acid esters or fatty alcohol esters, and mixtures thereof. Among the esters, there may be mentioned in particular: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular diglyceryl esters, such as polyglyceryl-2-triisostearate, adipic acid and glycerol condensates, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of glycerols reacted with a mixture of fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, in the image, in particular, of those marketed under the brand name Softisan 649 by the company Sasol or such as polyacyladipate-2 bis diglyceryl, arachidyl propionate marketed under the trademark Waxenol 801 by Alzo, phytosterol esters, triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, such as hydrogenated coco-glycerides, the non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the condensation between a linear or branched C ₄ -C 50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-C50 diol or polyol; liphatic esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid, the polyesters resulting from the esterification, by a polycarboxylic acid, of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester, said ester comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, such as Risocast DA-H ^{® products} , and Risocast DA-L ^® , and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, a pasty compound that is suitable for the invention may in particular be polyglyceryl-2-triisostearate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, or mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise from 1 to 30% by weight of pasty compounds relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 8 to 20% by weight, and more particularly from 10 to 15% by weight. by weight of pasty compounds relative to the total weight of the composition. THICKENING AGENTS

Depending on the fluidity of the composition that it is desired to obtain, one or more thickening or gelling agents may be incorporated in a composition of the invention. A thickening or gelling agent suitable for the invention may be hydrophilic, i.e., soluble or dispersible in water.

As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may in particular be made of water-soluble or water-dispersible thickening polymers. These may especially be chosen from: carboxyvinyl polymers modified or not, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) by the company Goodrich; polyacrylates and polymethacrylates such as the products sold under the names Lubrajel and Norgel by the company GUARDIAN or under the name Hispagel by the company HISPANO CHIMICA; polyacrylamides; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid) sold by Clariant under the name "Hostacerin AMPS" ( CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide); crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS, in the form of an W / O emulsion, such as those marketed under the name SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name SIMULGEL 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, locust bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, chitin and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, gellanes, alginates, celluloses such as muicrocrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellullose and hydroxypropylcellulose; and their mixtures.

A thickening agent suitable for the invention may be lipophilic. A lipophilic thickening agent may be inorganic or organic.

Examples of lipophilic thickening agents that may be mentioned are modified clays, such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone gel VS38 from Rheox), and hectorite modified with distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride (CTFA name: Disteardimonium hectorite) marketed under the name "Bentone 38 CE" by RHEOX.

As inorganic lipophilic gelling agent, there may be mentioned optionally modified clays, such as hectorites modified with a C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as the hectoπte modified with di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium chloride such as , for example, that marketed under the name Bentone 38V by the company ELEMENTIS

It is also possible to mention the optionally hydrophobic fumed silica surface with a particle size of less than 1 μm. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present at the surface. surface of the silica It is possible in particular to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups can be:

trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are named "Silica Silylate" according to the CTFA (6 ^th edition, 1995) They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R812 by Degussa, Cab-O-Sil TS-530 ^® by the company Cabot; dimethylsilyloxyl groups or polydimethylsiloxane, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as "silica dimethyl Silylate" according to the CTFA (6 ^th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972 ^® , and Aerosil R974 ^® by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-610 ^® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720 ^® by the company CABOT The hydrophobic fumed silica present in particularly a particle size which can be nanometer to micrometer, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 μm.

The polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example elastomeric organopolysiloxanes partially or totally crosslinked, three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6, KSG16 ^® and KSGl 8 ^® by the company Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C ^® and Trefil E-506C ^® by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC ^® , SR DMF 10 ^® , SR-DC556 ^® , SR 5CYC gel ^® , SR DMF 10 gel ^® and SR DC 556 gel ^® by GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF 1204 ^® and JK 113 ^® by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethyl cellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel ^® by Dow Chemical; polycondensates of polyamide type resulting from the condensation between (α) at least one acid selected from dicarboxylic acids comprising at least 32 carbon atoms such as dimeric fatty acids and (β) an alkylene diamine and in particular ethylene diamine, in which the polyamide polymer comprises at least one terminal carboxylic acid group esterified or amidified with at least one monohydric alcohol or a monoamine comprising from 12 to 30 linear and saturated carbon atoms, and in particular, the copolymers of ethylene diamine / dilinoleate stearyl such as that marketed under the name Uniclear® 100 VG ^® by Arizona Chemical; galactomannans having from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per sac, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated by C1-C6 alkyl chains, and in particular Ci at C ₃ and mixtures thereof. The block copolymers of "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" of the polystyrene / polyisoprene or polystyrene / polybutadiene type such as those marketed under the name Luvitol HSB ^® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) such as those sold under the name Kraton by Shell Chemical Co., or else from the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those marketed by the company. PENRECO under the name Versagel ^® such as, for example, the mixture of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and ethylene / propylene / styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960).

Among the gelling agents that may be used in a cosmetic composition of the invention, mention may also be esters of dextrin fatty acid, such as dextrin palmitates, especially such as those sold under the names Rheopearl TL ^® or Rheopearl KL ^® by the company CHIBA FLOUR.

As a lipophilic thickening agent that is suitable for the invention, mention may also be made of hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as hydrogenated castor oil. As lipophilic thickening agent also suitable for the invention, the fatty alcohols there may be mentioned, in particular _C2 to Cs 6, and more preferably C12 to C22. According to one embodiment, a fatty alcohol that is suitable for the invention may be chosen from mysrityl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

As the lipophilic thickening agent also suitable for the invention, mention may be made of fatty acid and glycerol esters, such as glyceryl stearate.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic thickening agent, chosen in particular from bentones, polyamide-type polycondensates, such as ethylene diamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer, fatty alcohols, such as that behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol or stearyl alcohol, hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as hydrogenated castor oil, glyceryl stearate, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise from 2% to 40% by weight of lipophilic thickening agents, in particular from 5% to 40% by weight of lipophilic thickening agents, in particular from 10% to 30% by weight. weight, and more particularly from 15 to 20% by weight of lipophilic thickening agents relative to the total weight of the composition.

FILMOGENES AGENTS

A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one film-forming agent and optionally an imaging aid.

A film-forming agent may be a film-forming polymer.

"Film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming, on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous and adherent film on a support, in particular on keratin materials, and preferably a cohesive and better film. again, a film whose cohesion and mechanical properties are such that said film can be isolated from said support.

Among the film-forming polymers that can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of free radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof. As the film-forming polymer, mention may in particular be made of acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas and cellulose polymers, such as nitrocellulose. In one embodiment, the film-forming polymer is at least one polymer chosen from the group comprising: soluble polymers soluble in the liquid fatty phase, in particular liposoluble polymers, when the liquid fatty phase comprises at least one oil, the film-forming polymers dispersible in the liquid fatty phase, in particular polymers in the form of nonaqueous dispersions of polymer particles, in particular dispersions in silicone or hydrocarbon oils; in one embodiment, the non-aqueous polymer dispersions comprise previously-stabilized surface-stabilized polymer particles, aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymer particles, often referred to as "latex"; in this case, the composition must comprise, in addition to the liquid fatty phase, an aqueous phase, the water-soluble thermoplastic polymers; in this case, the composition must comprise, in addition to the liquid fatty phase, an aqueous phase.

A film-forming polymer can be dispersed in the form of solid particles in an aqueous phase of the composition or else solubilized or dispersed in the form of solid particles in a liquid fatty phase. The composition may comprise a mixture of these polymers. When the film-forming polymer is in the form of solid particles, these particles may have an average particle size ranging from 5 nm to 600 nm, and preferably from 20 nm to 300 nm.

Among the polymeric polymers that can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.

The term radical-forming polymeric polymer is understood to mean a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers, especially ethylenic monomers, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).

The radical-type polymeric polymers may in particular be polymers, or copolymers, vinylic, especially acrylic polymers. The vinyl film-forming polymers may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acidic group and / or esters of these acidic monomers and / or amides of these acidic monomers.

As monomer bearing an acid group, it is possible to use α, β-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid. It is preferable to use (meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid, and more preferably (meth) acrylic acid.

The acid monomer esters are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also known as (meth) acrylates), especially (meth) acrylates, alkyl in particular C ₁ -C ₃ O, preferably C ₁ -C ₂ O,

(meth) acrylates of aryl, in particular of C ₀ -C ₁₀ aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 2 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl.

Among the alkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate.

Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

Among the aryl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.

Particularly preferred (meth) acrylic acid esters are alkyl (meth) acrylates.

The alkyl group of the esters may be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, i.e. some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.

Amides of the acidic monomers include, for example, (meth) acrylamides, and especially N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular C ₂ -C ₁₂ alkyls. Among the N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, mention may be made of N-ethyl acrylamide, Nt-butyl acrylamide, Nt-octyl acrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide. The vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acidic monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above.

Examples of vinyl esters include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.

Styrene monomers include styrene and alpha-methyl styrene.

It is possible to use any monomer known to those skilled in the art falling into the categories of acrylic and vinyl monomers (including monomers modified with a silicone chain).

Among the thermoplastic polycondensates, mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins, polyureas.

The polyurethanes may be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics, poly-urethanes-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.

The polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, may be chosen from shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals, cellulosic polymers, and mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment, a film-forming polymer may be present in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion, generally known under the name of latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

As the aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer, the

Acrylic dispersions sold under the names NEOCRYL XK-90,

NEOCRYL A-1070 ^® , NEOCRYL A-1090 ^® , NEOCRYL BT-62 ^® , NEOCRYL A-1079 ^® , NEOCRYL A-523 ^® by the company DSM NEORESINS, DOW LATEX 432 ^® by the company

DOW CHEMICAL, DAITOSOL 5000 AD ^® by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO;

Syntran 5760, Syntran 5190 and Syntran 5170 sold by the company INTERPOLYMER or the aqueous dispersions of polyurethane sold under the names Neorez R-981® and Neorez R-974 ^® by the company DSM NEORESINS, AVALURE UR-405, AVALURE UR-410, AVALURE UR-425, AVALURE UR-450 ^® , SANCURE 875 ^® , SANCURE 861 ^® , SANCURE 878 ^® , SANCURE 2060 ^® by the company NOVEON, IMPRANIL 85 ^® by the company BAYER,

AQUAMERE H-1511 ^® by the company HYDROMER. As the aqueous dispersion of polymeric polymer, it is also possible to use the polymer dispersions resulting from the radical polymerization of one or more radical monomers inside and / or partially on the surface of pre-existing particles of at least one polymer chosen from group consisting of polyurethanes, polyureas, polyesters, polyesteramides and / or alkyds. These polymers are generally called hybrid polymers.

According to another alternative embodiment of the composition according to the invention, a film-forming polymer may be present in a liquid fatty phase comprising organic oils or solvents.

According to another embodiment of the composition according to the invention, a film-forming polymer may be present in the form of particles, surface-stabilized, dispersed in the liquid fatty phase.

The dispersion of surface-stabilized polymer particles can be manufactured as described in EP-A-749,747.

The polymer particles may be surface stabilized by a stabilizer which may be a block polymer, a graft polymer, and / or a random polymer, alone or in admixture.

Dispersion of film-forming polymer in a liquid fatty phase, in the presence of stabilizing agents, are described in particular in documents EP-A-749 746, EP-A-923 928 and EP-A-930 060. The size of the particles of The polymers dispersed either in the aqueous phase or in the liquid fatty phase may range from 5 nm to 600 nm, and preferably from 20 nm to 300 nm.

According to another embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the polymorphic polymer can be solubilized in the liquid fatty phase, it is said that the polymeric film is a fat-soluble polymer. As an example of a fat-soluble polymer, mention may be made of vinyl ester copolymers (the vinyl group being directly connected to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl ester group) and from at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present), an α-olefin (having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms), an alkyl vinyl ether (the alkyl group of which contains 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an allyl or methallyl ester (having a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, bonded to the carbonyl ester group). These copolymers may be crosslinked using crosslinking agents which may be of the vinyl type, or of the allyl or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and octadecanedioate. divinyl.

Examples of such copolymers include copolymers: vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vinyl acetate / octadecylvinylether vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, vinyl acetate / dodecene-1, vinyl stearate / ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, stearate of vinyl vinyl / allyl acetate, 2,2-dimethyl-2 vinyl octanoate / vinyl laurate, 2,2-dimethyl-2-allyl pentanoate / vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, dimethyl allyl propionate / stearate vinyl propionate / vinyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl laurate, cross-linked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether, crosslinked with 0.2% of tetraall yloxyethane, vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, cross-linked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecene-1 crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene and allyl propionate / allyl stearate crosslinked with 0 2% divinyl benzene.

Mention may also be made, as fat-soluble liposoluble polymers, of liposoluble homopolymers, and in particular those resulting from the homopolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having more or less 10 to 20 carbon atoms. Such liposo lubricous homopolymers may be chosen from vinyl polystearate, vinyl polystearate crosslinked with divinylbenzene, diallyl ether or diallyl phthalate, stearyl poly (meth) acrylate, polyvinylate, poly (meth) acrylate lauryl, these poly (meth) acrylates can be crosslinked using dimethacrylate ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol.

The liposoluble copolymers and homopolymers defined above are known and in particular described in application FR-A-2 262 303; they may have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 2000 to 500000 and preferably from 4000 to 200000.

Liposoluble polymeric polymers that can be used in the invention also include polyalkylenes and especially copolymers of C2-C20 alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched, saturated or unsubstituted Ci to Cs alkyl radical, for example. ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP short hereinafter) and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and an alkene, C ₂ -C ₄ 0 and better still C 3 -C ₂ 0. as an example of a copolymer of VP that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of the copolymer of VP / vinyl acetate, VP / ethyl methacrylate, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) butylated, VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / triacontene, VP / styrene,

VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate.

The composition according to the invention may comprise an auxiliary film-forming agent promoting the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer. Such a film-forming agent may be chosen from any compound known to those skilled in the art as being capable of fulfilling the desired function, and in particular be chosen from plasticizers and coalescing agents.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise, as a film-forming agent, the vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer.

STRUCTURING POLYMERS

A composition of the invention may advantageously comprise at least one structuring polymer. For the purposes of the present invention, a structuring polymer denotes a polymer capable of establishing physical interactions, where appropriate in contact with a crosslinking agent when the structuring polymer is not crosslinked, in the fatty phase in which it is implemented. It has the ability to develop structuring properties, for example gelling, and thus leads to textures of semi-solid or solid appearance.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polymer" is intended to denote compounds comprising at least two repeating units, preferably at least five repeating units and in particular at least ten repeating units.

These structuring polymers can also be described as "anhydrous gelling agents", which structure the oils and lead to the formation of a semi-solid solid when the gel is allowed to structure itself.

Preferably, the polymers structuring the oily phase via physical interactions are chosen from polyamides, silicone polyamides, saccharide mono- or polyalkyl esters or polysaccharides, amide derivatives of N-acylated amino acids, and copolymers comprising an alkylene sequence. or styrene, these copolymers may be di-block, tri-block, multi-block, radial-block polymers also called star copolymers, or even comb polymers. The structuring polymers that are suitable for the invention can carry at least one crystallizable block in the backbone, the remainder of the copolymer being amorphous (at room temperature). These copolymers may, in addition, have two crystallizable blocks of different chemical nature. The preferred copolymers are those which have both at room temperature, a crystallizable block and an amorphous sequence both hydrophobic and lipophilic distributed sequentially; mention may be made, for example, of polymers having one of the crystallizable blocks and one of the following amorphous blocks:

- Crystallizable sequence by nature: a) polyester such as poly (alkylene terephthalate), b) polyolefin such as polyethylenes or polypropylenes. - Amorphous and lipophilic sequence such as amorphous polyolefins or copoly (olefins) such as poly (isobutylene), hydrogenated polybutadiene, hydrogenated poly (isoprene).

As structuring polyamide that may be used in the invention, mention may also be made of polyamide resins resulting from the condensation of an aliphatic dicarboxylic acid and a diamine (including compounds having more than two carbonyl groups and two amine groups), carbonyl and amine groups of adjacent unitary units being fused by an amide bond. These polyamide resins are especially those marketed under the trademark Versamid ^® by General Mills, Inc. and Henkel Corp., under the Onamid ^® brand name, notably Onamid S or C. These resins have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 6000 to 9000. For more information on these polyamides, reference can be made to US-A-3, 645,705 and US-A-3, 148,125. Specifically, we use the Versamid ^® 30 or 744.

It is also possible to use the polyamides sold or manufactured by the company Arizona under the references Uni-Rez (2658, 2931, 2970, 2621, 2613, 2624, 2665, 1554, 2623, 2662) and the product sold under the reference Macromelt 6212 by Henkel company. For more information on these polyamides, reference may be made to US-A-5,500,209.

By way of example of structuring polyamides that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may also be made of the commercial products sold or manufactured by Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100. They are sold respectively in the form of a gel for 80% (active ingredient) and 100% (active ingredient) in a mineral oil. They have a 88 to 105 ⁰ C. softening point These commercial products are a mixture of copolymer of a C36 diacid condensed with ethylenediamine, with an average molecular weight of about 6000. Terminal ester groups result from the esterification of the remaining acid termini with cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof (also referred to as cetylstearyl alcohol). The N-acyl amino acid amides which may be used are, for example, the diamides of the combination of an N-acylamine acid with amines containing from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, such as those described in document FR 2 281 162. These are for example glutamic alkyl amide derivatives such as laurylglutamic acid dibutylamide, sold by the company Ajinomoto under the name "Gelling AGENT GP-I" or else the dibutylamide of 2-ethylhexanoyl glutamic acid sold by the company Ajinomoto under the name of "Gelling Agent GA-Ol".

The copolymers may have a comb or block structure of di-block, tri-block, multi-block and / or radial or star type and comprise at least two thermodynamically incompatible segments.

The structuring agent may comprise, for example, a styrene segment block as described in EP 0 497 144, WO 98/42298, US 6,225,690, No. 6,225,390, an ethylene / butylene segment, an ethylene / propylene segment as described in US Pat. No. 6,225,690, US Pat. No. 6,174,968, US Pat. No. 6,225,390, a butadiene segment, an isoprene segment and a polyvinyl segment, for example poly (meth) acrylate. alkyl, or polyvinyl alcohol or vinyl polyacetate, a silicone segment as described in US applications 5,468,477 and US 5,725,882 or a combination of these segments.

A diblock copolymer is usually defined as A-B in which a hard segment (A) is followed by a soft segment (B).

A tri-block copolymer is usually defined as A-B-A or as a ratio of a hard segment, a soft segment, and a hard segment.

A multi-block or radial or star copolymer may comprise any type of combination of hard segments and soft segments, provided that the characteristics of the hard segments and the soft segments are retained.

By way of example of hard segments of block copolymer, mention may be made of styrene, and by way of example of flexible block copolymer segments, mention may be made of ethylene, propylene, butylene, and the like. a combination of these.

The triblock copolymers, and in particular those of the polystyrene / polyisoprene or polystyrene / polybutadiene type, suitable for the implementation of the invention may be those sold under the reference LUVITOL HSB by the company BASF. Mention may also be made of tri-block copolymers of polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) or polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, such as those sold under the reference KRATON by the company Shell Chemical Co., or under the reference

GELLED PERMETHYL 99 A by the company PENRECO. Such triblock copolymers are particularly preferred according to the invention.

By way of example, for example, block copolymers which may be suitable for the implementation of the present invention, mention may also be made of the block copolymers sold under the reference VERSAGEL by the company.

PENRECO, those marketed under the reference ICRATON by SHELL and those marketed under the reference GEL BASE by BROOKS INDUSTRIES.

These structuring polymers can be used alone or in mixtures in all proportions. EXPENSES

A composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one filler, of organic or inorganic nature, making it possible, in particular, to confer on it improved stability with regard to exudation and improved non-migration properties after application.

By "charge" is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Of mineral or organic nature, they make it possible to impart body or stiffness to the composition and / or softness, and uniformity to makeup. The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber or any other intermediate form between these defined forms.

The fillers according to the invention may or may not be superficially coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance which promotes dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the process. composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the terms "mineral fillers" and "inorganic fillers" are used interchangeably.

Among the mineral fillers that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, trimethyl siloxysilicate, kaolin, bentonite, precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and hydrogen carbonate. magnesium, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, silica-based fillers such as PAerosil 200, PAerosil 300; Sunsphare L-31, Sunphare H-31 marketed by Asahi Glass; Chemicelen marketed by Asahi Chemical; silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass, and their blends.

Among the organic fillers used in the compositions according to the invention include polyamide powders (nylon Orgasol from Atochem), poly-b-alanine and polyethylene, polytetrafluoroethylene powder (Teflon ^8), lysine lauroy-, starch, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, hollow microspheres of polymers, such as EXPANCEL (NOBEL INDUSTRIE), derived metal soaps carboxylic organic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore® L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), silicone resin microspheres (Toshiba's Tospearl®, for example), polyurethane powders, in particular, crosslinked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyl lactone. In particular, it may be a hexamethylene diisocyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone polymer. Such particles are especially commercially available, for example, under the name Plastic Powder D-400 ^® or Plastic Powder D-800 ^® from the company Toshiki, and mixtures thereof.

A composition of the invention may comprise from 1 to 30% of the weight of charges relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 5 to 20% by weight, and more particularly from 10 to 15% by weight of charges relative to total weight of the composition.

ASSETS

A composition of the invention may further comprise at least one cosmetic active agent and / or one dermatological active agent.

By way of nonlimiting examples of cosmetic and / or dermatological active agents that are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the active agents chosen from the following agents:

moisturizing agents, desquamating agents, agents improving the barrier function, depigmenting agents, antioxidants, dermodecontracting agents, anti-glycation agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, the agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or the differentiation of keratinocytes, the agents promoting the maturation of the horny envelope, the NO-synthase inhibitors, the peripheral benzodiazepine receptor (PBR) antagonists, agents increasing the activity of the sebaceous gland, agents stimulating the energy metabolism of cells, tensing agents, liporestructuring agents, slimming agents, skin microcirculation agents, soothing agents and / or anti-irritants, sebum-regulators or anti-seborrhoeic, astringent agents, healing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, and anti-acne agents,

the matting agents, the blooming fillers, the fluorescent agents, the agents promoting the naturally rosy coloration of the skin and the abrasive or exfoliating fillers,

- and their mixtures.

The cosmetic and / or dermatological active agents that are suitable for the invention may especially be chosen from the agents mentioned in application EP 1 847 247.

It falls within the purview of those skilled in the art to select the active agent (s) and their content as a function of the desired effect on keratin materials, and so as not to affect the cosmetic properties of the compositions of the invention.

Additives

A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field concerned, for example chosen from gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, dispersing agents, semi-crystalline polymers, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, antiseptics, UV protective agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen protectors, and mixtures thereof .

It falls within the routine operations of those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions according to the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties and stability properties of these they are not affected. A composition according to the invention may, in particular, be in the form of a makeup composition and / or care of the skin or lips, in particular a lipstick, a lip balm or a gloss.

More particularly, a composition of the invention may be a lipstick. A composition of the invention can be obtained by any preparation method known to those skilled in the art.

The present invention will be better understood by means of the following examples. These are presented only as an illustration of the invention and should not be interpreted as limiting the scope thereof.

EXAMPLES

Example 1

Long lasting formula lipstick stick

Preparation

Pigments and fillers are milled in the oily phase. The waxes, the oily phase and the pigmentary ground material are added to a skillet and heated at 100 ^° C. for 2 hours in order to homogenize the mixture. Finally the pearlescent agents and the volatile solvent are added to the mixture which is poured into an appropriate mold at 42 ^° C. The mold is then placed at -20 ^° C. for half an hour, then the sticks are demolded.

Example 2

Lipstick stick with different solvents

The lipstick sticks are prepared as indicated above. The combination of alcohol (ethanol) and the solvent undecane / tridecane, gives as a result a structured formula and resistant to mechanical contractions and to the temperature, and retaining good cosmetic properties of comfort, long-lasting and shine.

Example 3

Long-lasting lipstick stick

The lipstick is prepared as previously indicated. The lipstick obtained is evaluated by users with regard to the cosmetic aspects, the makeup result and the comfort.

The evaluation is done on semi-qualitative interviews. The parameters evaluated are the application, the perceptions and the makeup result.

The evaluation is performed after free application on a panel of 8 women users of long-wearing lipstick, ranging in age from 25 to 50 years.

The table below summarizes the main qualities appreciated by the users of a lipstick of the invention.

From the results of the study, it is concluded that the application is easy because the soft and slippery texture adheres to the lip and allows to deposit a uniform and smooth film quickly.

The pinch distribution is easily achievable because the texture is flexible and allows retouching. The beveled cut of the grape offers the possibility to draw precisely the outlines.

The deposited texture is absorbed, fixed and does not leave the feeling of a material effect on the lip.

At the makeup result, the lips are well hemmed with sharp contours. The film is both covering and end (it lets perceive the streaks of the lips without marking them). This impression of carved lips pleases the models. In addition, the deposit gives an intense and luminous color. The lipstick is light to wear and does not dry out.

The coverage of the composition was measured as previously described: The following results are obtained: Y on a black background = 7.09

Y on white background = 7.22 The coverage of the composition of the lipstick stick of Example 3 is e which corresponds to an excellent coverage value.

Example 4: Foundation

Operating mode

The fatty phase is weighed in a main beaker, and then placed on a heating magnetic plate, with stirring and under heating (90 ^° C.).

The ground dyestuffs and fillers are added while maintaining stirring and heating until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

Finally, the undecane / tridecane mixture is introduced.

The aqueous phase is prepared by adding water heated to 95 ^° C. to glycerol.

The emulsion is carried out at room temperature: the aqueous phase is poured into the fatty phase by gradually increasing the stirring speed to 4500 rpm-1. Stirring is maintained for 10 minutes.

Claims

1. Colored cosmetic composition for makeup and / or care of the skin or lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least 1% by weight of pigments relative to the total weight of the composition and at least one volatile solvent alkane (s) linear (s) the volatile (s) C9-C ₁₅ in an amount ranging from 4% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, said composition having an equal or higher coverage 40 .

2. A colored cosmetic composition for the make-up and / or care of the skin or the lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one pigment and at least one volatile solvent of the volatile linear alkane type (s) ( s) C 9 -C ₁ s, said pigment being titanium dioxide and said composition having a greater coverage or equal to 40.

3. Colored cosmetic composition for the makeup and / or care of the skin or lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one pigment and at least one volatile solvent of linear alkane (s) type (s) volatile (s) ( s) C9 to C ₁ S, said composition comprising a water content less than or equal to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said volatile linear alkane (s) comprises / comprise from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 15 carbon atoms. to 13 carbon atoms.

5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the said volatile linear alkane (s) is / are of plant origin.

6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the said volatile linear alkane (s) is (are) chosen from among n-nonane (C9), n-dodecane (ClO), n-undecane (Cl), n-dodecane (Cl2), n-tridecane (Cl3), n-tetradecane (Cl4), n-pentadecane (Cl5) , and their mixtures.

The composition of any of the preceding claims, wherein said volatile solvent comprises a mixture of volatile linear alkanes containing n-undecane and n-tridecane.

8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 4% to 30% by weight of volatile solvent of linear alkane type (s). volatile (s), in particular from 8% to 20% by weight, and more particularly from 10% to 15% by weight of volatile solvent of linear alkane type (s) volatile (s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition further comprising at least one additional volatile solvent different from said volatile volatile alkane (s) linear solvent (s).

10. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein said additional volatile solvent is selected from alcohols, volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.

11. A composition according to claim 9 or 10, comprising from 1 to 20% by weight of additional volatile solvent, in particular from 5 to 18% by weight, and more particularly from 8 to 10% by weight of additional volatile solvent relative to total weight of the composition.

12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 and 3 to 11, comprising at least one pigment based on titanium dioxide and iron oxide.

13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 1 to 15% by weight of pigments, in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, and more particularly from 2 to 8% by weight of pigments relative to the total weight. of the composition.

14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition being anhydrous.

15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition having a coverage greater than or equal to about 45, even greater than or equal to about 50, in particular greater than or equal to about 60, more particularly greater than or equal to about 80, in particular ranging from 90 to 100 or even about 100.

16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition being a lipstick, and in particular a stick or stick of lipstick.

17. Use in a cosmetic composition comprising at least 1% by weight of pigments relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one volatile solvent of linear alkane type (s) volatile (s) in a varying content from 4% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, to give said composition an improved behavior over time.

18. A cosmetic process for making up and / or caring for the skin or the lips, comprising at least the application on the skin or the lips of at least one layer of a composition as defined according to any one of the claims. 1 to 16.