FR3084590A1 - COSMETIC EMULSION COMPRISING FUNCTIONALIZED SILICONES - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a product for making up or caring for the skin comprising i) a set of at least two compositions comprising at least one unsaturated organopolysiloxane, at least one hydrogenopolysiloxane and at least one hydrosilylation catalyst, and ii) a suitable conditioning means to avoid the reaction between the unsaturated organopolysiloxane, said hydrogenopolysiloxane and said catalyst. At least one of the two compositions is in the form of a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion.

Description

Cosmetic emulsion product comprising functionalized silicones

The subject of the invention is a care or make-up product for a part of the body, preferably a part of the body subjected to high mechanical stresses, such as the lips, the skin of the face or the skin of the eyelids.

This product comprises two functionalized silicone precursors and a catalyst which react together on the surface of the part of the body to which the product has been applied, to form a crosslinked silicone compound.

The invention also relates to a care or make-up method using this product.

Prior Art

The mechanical properties of a skin care or make-up product are often modulated by the use of polymers, to form a continuous deposit on the skin after application and possible evaporation of the solvents it contains. These polymers bring to the deposit various properties depending on their chemical nature.

Among the properties sought are the adhesion of the deposit to the skin, the resistance of the deposit to water with which the product can come into contact during the day, the resistance of the deposit to sebum secreted by the skin, or the resistance rubbing the skin against objects or, in the case of the lips, rubbing the lips against each other.

The improvement of the visual rendering of the surface of the skin showing wrinkles, fine lines or other defects can be obtained in several ways, for example by diffraction of the incident light.

Surface imperfections can also be obtained with a tensor polymer which smoothes the surface by causing the product film to contract after it has dried on the skin. However, some of these polymers have the drawback of stiffening the composition which becomes uncomfortable for the user once applied to the skin.

The improvement in the stretchability of the deposit makes it possible to reduce the feeling of tightness. In fact, the film's resistance to stretching, which can be characterized by the Young's modulus, affects comfort, which will be all the better the lower the modulus.

The durability of the deposit can be compromised by the crumbling and disintegration of the film resulting from the multiple stresses and mechanical deformations of the film on the skin over time. Polymers are therefore proposed to improve the elasticity of the film. Some of them are both elastic and resistant to stretching.

However, it has been observed so far that the greater the tightening effect of a polymer, the more unpleasant the tightening of the skin. Also, either the deposit provides a little noticeable tightening effect, or the deposit is very uncomfortable. Furthermore, the hold of certain smoothing compositions of the prior art is not maintained over time sufficiently. Only an immediate tightening effect is obtained.

To remedy this drawback, it has been proposed to plasticize the tensor polymer with non-polymeric compounds so that the dry film of composition is more easily stretchable. For example, it has been proposed to plasticize a tensor mixture of starch and polyvinyl alcohol. But the glycerol provides stickiness and reduces the tightening effect.

Some of the tensioning polymers of the prior art are silicone elastomers. Silicone elastomers with smoothing and tightening properties, the formation of which is triggered directly on the body by concomitant application of reactive precursors have been described in applications WO 2012/030984, WO 2013/158844 and WO 2017/083398. However, the compositions containing it have many drawbacks. The resistance over time of the deposited film is obtained at very high silicone precursor contents, between 20% and 50% by mass, which considerably disturbs the sensoriality of the product on the skin. The deposit is too thick, too dry and too present, so that the product cannot be offered for daily use in make-up or care products such as foundations or care creams. The sensoriality is also altered by lack of freshness, and the penetration of the product into the skin is not felt.

There is therefore a continuing need for a cosmetic make-up or care product with improved properties, in particular a product which remains stable and homogeneous over time, and which forms a film on the skin provided with at least one of the following advantages: a significant immediate tightening effect, sufficient flexibility so as not to cause discomfort in the user, satisfactory cohesion so as not to crumble over time, a tightening effect which is maintained over time, and good adhesion to the skin.

Description of the invention

The present invention meets this need by providing a makeup or care product comprising i) a set of at least two compositions, said set comprising at least one unsaturated organopolysiloxane, at least one hydrogenopolysiloxane and at least one hydrosilylation catalyst, and ii) a suitable conditioning means to avoid the reaction between the unsaturated organopolysiloxane, said hydrogenopolysiloxane and said catalyst during the conservation of said product and before its use for make-up or care.

The improvement of the product of the invention may lie in the durability of the smoothing effect and the imperceptibility of the film, which conforms to the volumes and perfectly follows the movements of the skin. The skin can be felt smoother and not covered with a mask. The elasticity of the film may be sufficiently high and its resistance to stretching may be sufficiently low to approach the Young's modulus of the skin, which partly explains why it is imperceptible and provides extreme comfort.

The set of at least two compositions preferably comprises at least a first composition and at least a second composition. Also, the packaging means may comprise a first container containing the first composition and a second container containing the second composition.

It has been discovered that the presence, distribution, nature and proportions of the ingredients which can enter into the composition of the whole - in particular water, oils, hydrophilic polymers, lipophilic polymers, unsaturated organopolysiloxane and hydrogenopolysiloxane - in separate compositions improves the properties of the product significantly.

For example, the formulation of one of the compositions in the form of an emulsion, the choice of the direction of this emulsion, the percentage of solvents chosen, the choice of the unsaturated polyorganopolysiloxane, the choice of the hydrogenopolysiloxane, the amount of the two precursors of crosslinked silicone, the presence of a lipophilic polymer and the presence of a hydrophilic polymer can give very advantageous results.

It has also been discovered in the context of the present invention very surprisingly, that the addition of a tensor polymer to a set of compositions further comprising silicone precursors reacting in situ, does not reduce the elasticity of a film of cosmetic product obtained at the end of the crosslinking reaction, contrary to what one might expect.

Definitions

The product of the present invention can be applied to any part of the body, such as the eyelashes, the nails, the lips or the skin, in particular the skin of the face or the neck.

The term “percentage by mass” is understood to mean the percentage by mass relative to the mass of a composition or of a product unless explicitly stated otherwise.

In the present application, the viscosity values given in cP and the viscosity values given in cSt denote either values expressed in cP or in cSt. The alternative is not specified in the description so as not to weigh down the reading. Thus, for example, a so-called viscosity between 1,000 cP and 40,000 cP is a viscosity between 1,000 cP and 40,000 cP at 25 ° C or 20 ° C, or a viscosity between 1,000 cSt and 40,000 cSt at 25 ° C or 20 ° C, which viscosity is measured by any method known to those skilled in the art.

Detailed description of the invention

The invention relates to a skin care or make-up product comprising i) several silicone precursors capable of reacting with each other when they are mixed at a temperature between 10 ° C and 40 ° C, preferably between 15 ° C and 25 ° C, to form a crosslinked silicone compound when applied to a part of the body, and ii) an appropriate conditioning means to avoid the reaction of these compounds during their conservation and before their application to the body .

Among these precursors are at least one unsaturated polysiloxane comprising one or more unsaturated organic groups linked to a silicon atom, at least one hydrogenopolysiloxane and at least one hydrosilylation catalyst. The packaging means is configured so that the three compounds can be mixed only on request, in particular when a user wishes to apply the product.

The packaging means may meet one of the following characteristics or one of the combinations of these characteristics:

- have at least two independent containers or flasks,

- have a means of distributing the three compounds,

- be provided with a means of mixing the three compounds, so that a user can cause the triggering of a chemical reaction between the three by bringing them into contact, either directly on the body, or just before their application .

Also, the packaging means can comprise both a means of mixing and a means of distributing the two compositions.

The unsaturated polysiloxane and the hydrogenopolysiloxane can react in the presence of the catalyst: a hydrosilylation reaction between at least one unsaturated group of the unsaturated polysiloxane and at least part of the hydrogen atoms of the hydrogenopolysiloxane occurs so as to create a compound silicone comprising crosslinking nodes between the silicon atoms carrying an unsaturated group and the silicon atoms carrying a hydrogen.

According to one embodiment, the set of compositions comprises several compositions including at least a first composition and a second composition. The first composition may be a composition necessarily containing one or at least two, preferably a single unsaturated organopolysiloxane. For example, the first composition contains a single unsaturated organopolysiloxane which is a vinyldimethicone. Furthermore, it is devoid of a hydrosylilation catalyst when it contains at least one hydrogenopolysiloxane, and it is devoid of a hydrogenodimethicone when it contains a hydrosylilation catalyst, so that the three compounds do not react together before mixing the first composition with the second composition, which is carried out when the product is used. In this embodiment, the second composition may be a composition containing one or at least two, preferably only one, hydrogenopolysiloxane. For example, hydrogenopolysiloxane is a hydrogenodimethicone. In addition, it is devoid of a hydrosylilation catalyst when it contains at least one unsaturated organopolysiloxane, and it is devoid of an unsaturated organopolysiloxane when it contains a hydrosylilation catalyst, so that the three compounds do not react together before the first composition is mixed with the second composition which is produced when the product is used.

According to a particular embodiment, the care or make-up product comprises two compositions, the first comprising a single vinyldimethicone, and the second comprising a single hydrogenodimethicone, the hydrosilylation catalyst being present in at least one of the two compositions.

In a particular embodiment, the packaging means comprises a first container containing the first composition and a second container containing the second composition. According to a first variant of this embodiment, the first composition comprises said at least one unsaturated organopolysiloxane and the hydrosilylation catalyst, and the second composition comprises said at least hydrogenopolysiloxane. In this variant, the second composition may comprise at least one unsaturated organopolysiloxane different from the organopolysiloxane present in the first composition and in accordance with the description which has been made of it previously. According to a second variant, the first composition comprises said at least hydrogenopolysiloxane and the hydrosilylation catalyst, and the second composition comprises said at least one unsaturated organopolysiloxane. Finally, according to a third variant, the first composition comprises said at least hydrogenopolysiloxane and said at least one unsaturated organopolysiloxane, and the second composition comprises the hydrosilylation catalyst.

vinyldimethicone

The set of compositions preferably comprises at least one unsaturated organopolysiloxane, for example one, two or three unsaturated organopolysiloxanes, and preferably only one.

The unsaturated organopolysiloxane preferably comprises one or more alkenyl groups, preferably of C2-C6. These radicals can be located on the main chain comprising silicon and oxygen atoms, at the end of the chain or both.

The unsaturated organopolysiloxane comprises units ((SÎR1R2-O) - and (SiR'lR'2-O) - in which RI, R2, R'1 and R'2 are chosen independently from one another C1-C6 alkyl, C2-C6 alkenyl, aryl, hydroxyl or C1-C6 alkoxyl radicals, and -SIR3R4R5 and -SiR'3R'4R'5 end groups such as R3, R4, R5, R'3, R'4 and R'5 are independently chosen from alkyl radicals in

C1-C6, C2-C6 alkenyl, aryl, hydroxyl or C1-C6 alkoxyl, provided that at least one of the radicals RI to R5, R'I to R'5 is a C2-C6 alkenyl.

According to one embodiment, the unsaturated organopolysiloxane is a vinyldimethicone, for example a polydimethylsiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy endings.

The alkenyl groups are preferably chosen from the vinyl (-CH = CH2), allyl (-CH2-CH = CH2) and propenyl (-CH = CH-CH3) groups. The unsaturated organopolysiloxane preferably comprises at least one vinyl group is called vinylpolysiloxane in the present application.

The vinylpolysiloxane preferably comprises at least two vinyls, and more preferably comprises two vinyls. In one embodiment, the vinylpolysiloxane comprises a vinyl group located at each end of the chain (polysiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy endings).

In one embodiment, the unsaturated organopolysiloxane comprises at least one or two C2-C6 alkenyl groups which are located at the end of the chain, at least one of the groups R3, R4, R5, R'3, R '4 and R'5 being a C2-C6 alkenyl, preferably vinyl. The radicals RI, R2, R'I and R'2 are preferably chosen, independently of one another, from C1-C6 alkyl and aryl radicals.

The radicals RI and R2 are preferably methyls, and in this case, the unsaturated organopolysiloxane is called unsaturated dimethicone in the present application. The organopolysiloxane can be a homopolymer of dimethylsiloxane (RI, R2, R'I and R'2 being methyl groups) or to a copolymer of dimethylsiloxane (RI and R2 being methyl) and of - (SiR'lR'2- O) - as described above. When at least one of the alkenyl groups is a vinyl, the unsaturated organopolysiloxane is called in this case vinyldimethicone.

Vinyldimethicone can be a copolymer of vinylmethylsiloxane (RI being a vinyl group or radical and R2 being a methyl radical or group) and of dimethylsiloxane (R'I and R'2 being methyl) comprising trimethylsiloxy groups at the end of the chain.

In a particular embodiment, the vinylpolysiloxane is a vinyldimethicone such as a polydimethylsiloxane with dimethylvinylsiloxy endings, or a poly (dimethylsiloxane) (diphenylsiloxane) with dimethylvinylsiloxy endings.

In certain embodiments, the viscosity of the unsaturated organopolysiloxane, which is preferably a vinyldimethicone, is between 5 cP and 500,000 cP, preferably between 1,000 cP and 200,000 cP. In a particular embodiment, the viscosity of the vinyldimethicone is between 1,000 cP and 3,000 cP, or between 50,000 cP and 100,000 cP.

The viscosity of vinylpolysiloxane, which is preferably vinyldimethicone, can be greater than a value chosen from the group consisting of 500, 1000,

1500, 2000, 2500, 3000, 5000, 10 000, 20 000, 30 000, 40 000, 50 000, 60 000, 70 000, 80 000, 90 000 and 100 000, or be lower than a value chosen in the group consisting of 500,000, 400,000, 300,000, 250,000, 200,000 and 150,000, the values being expressed in cSt or in cP, and corresponding to a measurement carried out at 20 ° C or 25 ° C. Such compounds are commercially available in particular under the brand Andisil VS 6 (3.0 mmol / mg, 6 cSt), Andisil VS 10 (1.70 mmol / mg, 10 cSt), Andisil VS 20 (1.20 mmol / mg, 20 cSt) , Andisil VS 50 (0.80 mmol / mg, 50 cSt), Andisil VS 100 (mmol / mg, 100 cSt), Andisil VS 200 (mmol / mg, 200 cSt), Andisil VS 250 mmol / mg, 250 cSt), Andisil VS 400 (mmol / mg, 400 cSt), Andisil VS 500 (mmol / mg, 500 St), Andisil VS 1,000 (mmol / mg, 1000 cSt), Andisil VS 2,000 (mmol / mg, 2000 cSt), Andisil VS 4,000 (mmol / mg, 4000 cSt), Andisil VS 5,000 (mmol / mg, 5000 cSt), Andisil VS 10,000 (mmol / mg, 10,000 cSt), Andisil VS 20,000 (mmol / mg, 20,000 cSt), Andisil VS 65,000 (mmol / mg, 65,000 cSt), Andisil VS 80,000 (mmol / mg, 80,000 cSt), Andisil VS 100,000 (mmol / mg, 100,000 cSt), Andisil VS 165,000 (mmol / mg, 165,000 cSt).

The unsaturated organopolysiloxane can represent from 0.1 to 50% by mass of the mass of the set of compositions. The viscosity of the unsaturated organopolysiloxane can be between 100 cPs and 500,000 cPs, for example between 500 and 100,000 cPs.

According to a first variant, the set of compositions can comprise a single vinyldimethicone in a content of less than 45%, said vinyldimethicone having a viscosity of between 500 and 8000 cSt.

According to a second variant, the set of compositions comprises a single vinyldimethicone in a content of less than 45%, said vinyldimethicone having a viscosity of between 12,000 and 150,000 cSt.

According to a third variant, the set of compositions can comprise a single vinyldimethicone in a content of less than 10% by mass, said vinyldimethicone having a viscosity of between 500 and 150,000 cSt.

According to a fourth variant, the total content of unsaturated organopolysiloxane (s) ranges from 0.5% to 20% by mass of the mass of the whole.

According to a fifth variant, the set of compositions comprises less than 20% of an alcohol having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms and one or two OH functions, for example propylene glycol, butylene glycol or ethanol.

According to a sixth variant, the set of compositions contains more than 5% by mass, preferably from 5% to 90% by mass of at least one hydrocarbon-based oil, preferably non-volatile, a pigment and a biologically active agent.

According to a seventh variant, the assembly contains from 1% to 7% by mass, for example from 3.0% to 5.0% by mass of at least one vinyldimethicone with a viscosity of between 300 cPs and 9000 cPs.

According to an eighth variant, the assembly contains from 0.25% to 2% by mass of at least one hydrogenodimethicone relative to the mass of all of the compositions.

In a particular embodiment, at least one of the two compositions comprises a fatty phase.

In this embodiment, said at least two compositions may be in the form of an emulsion. The fatty phase can contain from 5% to 90% by mass of at least one non-volatile oil which can be chosen from dimethicones, phenyldimethicones and esters. The oil content can range from 10% to 80%, from 20% to 60% or from 40 to 60% by mass of the mass of the composition. The total content of unsaturated organopolysiloxane (s) preferably ranges from 0.5% to 20% by mass of the mass of the whole. The fatty phase can contain at least one non-volatile oil which can be chosen from dimethicones, phenyldimethicones and esters, and / or at least one volatile solvent. The emulsion can contain from 35% to 80% by mass of water. Those skilled in the art will be able to choose the mass ratio between volatile oils and volatile solvents, as well as the nature and the amount of surfactant to stabilize the emulsion. In this embodiment, the assembly can comprise less than 25% by mass of unsaturated organopolysiloxane, a non-volatile oil, and a pigment. The set of compositions can comprise a first composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising the unsaturated organopolysiloxane and the hydrosilylation catalyst, and a second composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion including hydrogenopolysiloxane.

hydrogenopolysiloxane

The hydrogenopolysiloxane is an organopolysiloxane containing at least one -SiH group, preferably at least two -SiH groups on the main chain, at the end of the chain or both.

The hydrogenopolysiloxane may also comprise at least one radical chosen from C1-C6 alkyl, C2-C6 alkenyl, aryl, hydroxyl or C1-C6 alkoxyl, especially radicals and / or aryls, especially at least one radical methyl, ethyl or phenyl.

According to one embodiment, the hydrogenodimethicone is a hydrogenodimethicone, for example a poly (methylhydrogeno) dimethylsiloxane comprising two trimethylsiloxy endings.

The hydrogenopolysiloxane can be a polydimethylsiloxane (also called hydrogenodimethicone) substituted with at least one -SiH radical. For example, the hydrogenodimethicone can be a poly (dimethyl) (methylhydrogeno) siloxane comprising two terminal groups independently chosen from the group consisting of the group -Si-H or of the trimethylsiloxy group.

The viscosity of the hydrogenopolysiloxane can be between 5 and 1000 cSt, for example between 10 and 500 cSt, between 20 and 100 cSt, or between 40 and 50 cSt.

The viscosity of the hydrogenopolysiloxane, which is preferably a hydrogenodimethicone, can be greater than a value chosen from the group consisting of 5; 10; 15; 20; 25; 30; 35; 40; 45; 50; 55; 60; 70; 80; 90; 100 or be less than a value chosen from the group consisting of 1000; 900; 800; 700; 600; 500; 400; 300 and 200; the values being expressed in cSt or in cP, and corresponding to a measurement carried out at 20 ° C or 25 ° C.

The hydrogenopolysiloxane can have an -SiH content of between 0.5 and 10 mmol / g, between 2 and 5 mmol / g (mmol of group -SiH per gram of hydrogenopolysiloxane).

The -SiH content of the hydrogenopolysiloxane, which is preferably a hydrogenodimethicone, can be greater than a value chosen from the group consisting of 0.5; 1.0; 1.5; 2.5; 3.0; 3.5; 4.0 mmol / g or be less than a value chosen from the group consisting of 10; 9.5; 9.0; 8.5; 8.0; 7.5; 7.0; 6.5; 6.0; 5.5; 5.0 mmol / g.

The hydrogenodimethicones can be poly (methylhydrogeno) dimethylsiloxane comprising two trimethylsiloxy terminations (that is to say comprising no -SiH groups at the chain end). Such compounds are commercially available, in particular under the brand Andisil XL1B (viscosity equal to 100 cSt and 0.95 mmol SiH / mg), Andisil XL-10 (viscosity equal to 45 cSt and 7.55 mmol SiH / mg), Andisil XL-11 (viscosity equal to 45 cSt and 4.35 mmol SiH / mg), Andisil XL-12 (viscosity equal to 500 cSt and 1.10 mmol SiH / mg), Andisil XL13 (viscosity equal to 100 cSt and 3.80 mmol SiH / mg), Andisil XL -15 (viscosity equal to 40 cSt and 3.15 mmol SiH / mg), Andisil XL-17 (viscosity equal to 50 cSt and 1.95 mmol SiH / mg).

The viscosity of the hydrogenopolysiloxane can be between 2 cPs and 1000 cPs, for example between 5 cPs and 100 cPs.

Catalyst

The catalyst can be a platinum complex, for example a platinum complex with a divinylsiloxane, for example tetravinyldimethyldisiloxane.

The catalyst may in particular be the reference product Karsted supplied by the company AB Specialty Silicones containing from 1.0% to 3.25% of a complex of platinum and tetravinyldimethyldisiloxane, which complex is diluted in a vinyldimethicone whose viscosity is equal at 200, 500 or 1000 cSt.

Those skilled in the art will be able to choose, if necessary, another platinum catalyst making it possible to obtain a rate of formation of the crosslinked silicone compatible with the intended application.

Combinations of unsaturated organopolysiloxane and hydrogenopolysiloxane

The unsaturated organopolysiloxanes and the hydrogenopolysiloxanes which crosslink in the presence of a catalyst by a hydrosilylation mechanism preferably each comprise dimethylsiloxane units.

According to a particular embodiment, the unsaturated organopolysiloxane is a polydimethylsiloxane comprising at least one vinyl group (vinyldimethicone), and preferably a vinyl group at each end of the chain, and the organopolysiloxane containing at least one group —SiH is a polydimethylsiloxane comprising at least one -SiH group, preferably a poly (methylhydrogeno) dimethylsiloxane comprising two trimethylsiloxy endings.

In this embodiment, the viscosity of the unsaturated organopolysiloxane can be between 500 and 8000 cSt, and the hydrogenopolysiloxane can have a viscosity between 30 cSt and 200 cSt and a group -SiH content between 0.9 and 9.0 mmol SiH / g.

The mass ratio or the molar ratio between the organopolysiloxane containing —Si-H groups and the organopolysiloxane comprising unsaturations is preferably chosen as a function of the crosslinking time and of the desired film properties.

For example, the mass ratio between the vinyldimethicone content with a viscosity between 500 and 8000 cSt and the hydrogenodimethicone content with a viscosity between 30 cSt and 200 cSt and a -SiH group content between 0.9 and 9.0 mmol SiH / g can range from 40:60 to 60:40.

In a particular embodiment, the ratio between the number of moles of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in the hydrogenodimethicone and the number of moles of vinyl groups is between 1.5 / 1 and 20 / 1.

One of the products of the invention comprises a set of first and second compositions, the first composition comprising said at least one unsaturated organopolysiloxane and the hydrosilylation catalyst, and the second composition comprising at least one hydrogenopolysiloxane.

The organopolysiloxane can be a vinyldimethicone representing from 2.5% to 10% by mass, preferably from 2.5% to 5% by mass of the mass of the set of compositions, and the hydrogenopolysiloxane can be a hydrogenodimethicone of which the amount represents from 0.5% to 2.5% by mass of the mass of the set of compositions.

The density of the crosslinking nodes in the crosslinked silicone, which is obtained by the reaction of the unsaturated organopolysiloxane and the hydrogenopolysiloxane, can be adjusted by choosing the content of —SiH in the hydrogenopolysiloxane, and the concentration of the two precursors. The viscosity of the organopolysiloxane influences, for its part, the mechanical properties of the film that it is desired to obtain.

The unsaturated organopolysiloxane, the hydrogenopolysiloxane and the catalyst mentioned above can correspond to the compounds described in applications FR 2 760 971 Al and FR 2 653 338 Al.

The unsaturated organopolysiloxane can be separated from the hydrogenopolysiloxane in the packaging means.

According to one embodiment, the unsaturated organopolysiloxane is a vinyldimethicone and the hydrogenopolysiloxane is a hydrogenodimethicone.

Product preparation process

According to a process for preparing the product described above, a mixture of an unsaturated organopolysiloxane, a surface-treated silica and a catalyst as described above can be prepared or obtained commercially. In this mixture, the unsaturated organopolysiloxane can represent from 55% to 95% by mass and the surface-treated silica can represent from 5% to 45% by mass, the percentages being expressed relative to the mass of said mixture. The catalyst can be predispersed in a vinyldimethicone, before being mixed with the other two ingredients. In a variant of this process, the unsaturated organopolysiloxane is a vinyldimethicone, and the surface-treated silica is a silica silylate. galenic

The first composition and the second composition of the set can be independently of one another liquid or solid, and independently of one another anhydrous or in the form of an emulsion. The first composition and the second of the set can be emulsions.

The first composition and the second composition can be independently of each other chosen from anhydrous systems, water-in-oil emulsions, oil-in-water emulsions and emulsions comprising at least three distinct phases.

According to a particular embodiment, the first composition and the second composition are in a form chosen from the group consisting of an oil-in-water liquid emulsion comprising an internal liquid fatty phase emulsified in an external liquid aqueous phase, a liquid water emulsion -in oil comprising an internal liquid aqueous phase emulsified in an external liquid fatty phase, and a composition comprising a single phase, which phase is an fatty phase (composition also called anhydrous).

When the first composition is an emulsion of a fatty phase and an aqueous phase, the fatty phase can comprise an unsaturated organopolysiloxane and / or a hydrogenopolysiloxane. The same goes for the second composition.

When a composition contains a tensor polymer, the latter can be dissolved or dispersed in water or in a liquid fatty compound, which compound can be an unsaturated organopolysiloxane, a hydrogenopolysiloxane or another oil.

In a first embodiment, the first composition and the second composition are both devoid of water. By "devoid of water" or "anhydrous" means a composition containing less than 4% by mass of water, for example less than 2% by mass of water.

In a second embodiment, the first composition is an oil-in-water emulsion. In this case, the second composition can be an oil-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion or an anhydrous composition.

In a third embodiment, the first composition is a water-in-oil emulsion. In this case, the second composition can be an oil-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion or an anhydrous composition.

In a fourth embodiment, the first composition is devoid of water. In this case, the second composition can be an oil-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion or an anhydrous composition.

Emulsion

The subject of the invention is a cosmetic make-up or care product of the invention may comprise i) a set of at least two compositions, said set comprising at least one unsaturated organopolysiloxane, at least one hydrogenopolysiloxane and at least one catalyst d hydrosilylation, and ii) a suitable conditioning means to avoid the reaction between the unsaturated organopolysiloxane, said hydrogen polysiloxane and said catalyst during the conservation of said product, and before its use for make-up or skin care, one at less of the two compositions being in the form of an emulsion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase or of an emulsion of an aqueous phase in a fatty phase, said fatty phase comprising either the unsaturated organopolysiloxane or the hydrogenopolysiloxane , the other composition possibly containing water or not.

In this product, the total content of unsaturated organopolysiloxane (s) can range from 0.5% to 20% by mass of the mass of the whole.

The fatty phase may contain at least one non-volatile oil chosen from dimethicones, phenyldimethicones and esters.

The emulsion can comprise at least one volatile solvent. The emulsion can contain from 35% to 80% by mass of water.

Said at least two compositions can be in the form of an emulsion. According to an embodiment, the assembly comprises less than 25% by mass of unsaturated organopolysiloxane, a non-volatile oil, and a pigment.

In this product, the set of compositions can include

a first composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, and a second composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, or

a first composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion and a second composition in anhydrous form, or

- A first composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and a second composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.

In this product, the first composition may contain an unsaturated organopolysiloxane and / or a hydrogenopolysiloxane. The second composition may contain an unsaturated organopolysiloxane and / or a hydrogenopolysiloxane.

In a particular embodiment, the first composition and the second composition are emulsions in the opposite direction, one being a water-in-oil emulsion and the other being an oil-in-water emulsion, in particular in the case where at least one of the two compositions contains a hydrophilic tensor polymer, and / or in the case where the first composition contains a single vinyldimethicone. Tensor polymer

The product of the invention may be a cosmetic make-up or care product comprising i) a set of at least two compositions, said set comprising at least one unsaturated organopolysiloxane, at least one hydrogenopolysiloxane and at least one hydrosilylation catalyst, and ii) a suitable conditioning means to avoid the reaction between the unsaturated organopolysiloxane, said hydrogenopolysiloxane and said catalyst during the conservation of said product, and before its use for make-up or skin care, said set of compositions comprising at least a tensor polymer whose shrinkage percentage is greater than 0%. The tensor polymer preferably has a shrinkage rate greater than a value chosen from 1%, 2%, 3%, 4%, 5%.

The tensor polymer can be a hydrophilic polymer or a lipophilic polymer.

The assembly can comprise at least two tensor polymers, including at least one hydrophilic polymer and at least one lipophilic polymer.

At least one of the two compositions may be in the form of an emulsion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase, and this emulsion comprises at least one tensor polymer, for example at least one hydrophilic polymer solubilized or dispersed in the phase aqueous and / or at least one lipophilic polymer dissolved or dispersed in the fatty phase.

Hydrophilic polymer

It is possible to introduce, into at least one of the compositions of the assembly, at least one hydrophilic polymer, i.e. soluble or dispersible in water. The hydrophilic polymer may be present in water or in an aqueous phase contained in the composition when the latter contains it. By aqueous phase is meant a phase containing water and other ingredients, in particular polyols and / or active agents.

The hydrophilic polymer is preferably a non-silicone polymer, i.e. a polymer which does not comprise a main chain containing a silicon atom.

It preferably has a retraction rate, measured by any method known to those skilled in the art, greater than 0%, for example greater than or equal to 3%, preferably greater than or equal to 4%. For example, the contraction rate can be measured by method A described below or by any other method known to those skilled in the art.

The first and / or the second composition, when they comprise water or an aqueous phase, can comprise, independently of one another, a hydrophilic polymer having gelling properties so as to increase the consistency and / or the stability of composition.

The hydrophilic polymer, for example, has a shrinkage rate greater than twice that of a polyvinyl alcohol, such as for example the commercial reference polymer Selvol Ultalux® FA.

It can be chosen from vinylpyrrolidone and vinylacetate copolymers (for example PVP / VA®S630 whose shrinkage rate by method A is equal to 4.8%), sodium polystyrene sulfonates (for example FLEXAN® II), alginates (for example MANUGEL® DMB), polysaccharides, plant extracts containing it and algae extracts containing it.

Polysaccharides can be extracted and purified from plant material, or produced by bacterial fermentation before being purified.

Polysaccharides can be obtained by a fermentation step of bacterial strains, such as Rhizobium, optionally followed by a step of acid and thermal hydrolysis. They can have a molecular mass of between 20,000 and 60,000 g / mol, in this embodiment.

The polymer can also be an extract of CAESALPINIA SPINOSA, an extract of KAPPAPHYCUS ALVAREZII algae, an extract of alga of the genus Ulva as described in application WO 2015/181750, or an extract of locust bean (CERATONIA SILIQUA).

The polysaccharides obtained from bran and / or fibers and / or oat seeds (such as the product OSILIFT® 2 manufactured by the company SILAB and described in application EP 2 063 858) can also be used in the context of the invention as a polymer introduced into the aqueous phase.

Pullulans (whose shrinkage rate measured according to method A is around 6.9%) and acacia gums (whose shrinkage rate measured according to method A is around 6.8%) used as polymers in aqueous phase in the context of the invention.

The hydrophilic polymer can be a mixture of the abovementioned products, such as for example a mixture of acacia gum and rhizobian gum (produced by Rhizobium) sold under the reference Easyliance® 10 2.0 by the company Givaudan Actifs, and described in the patent application EP 2 603 858, the product LIFTONIN®-XPRESS offered by the company Rahn consisting of pullulan, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose and an extract of PORPHYRIDIUM CRUENUM alga, a mixture of CAESALPINIA SPINOSA fruit extract and extract of KAPPAPHYCUS ALVAREZII (for example the product Filmexel® marketed by the company Silab) or a mixture of a fruit extract of CERATONIA SILIQUA and extract of KAPPAPHYCUS ALVAREZII.

The hydrophilic polymer can for example be chosen from the compounds of INCI names:

ACACIA SENEGAL GUM AND RHIZOBIAN GUM, for example EASYLIANCE 10 2.0 (10%) from the company GIVANDAN actives

ACACIA GUM

AMP-ACRYLATES COPOLYMER AND ALCOHOL, for example PLASCIZE L8066 U (30%) from the company GOO CHEMICAL

POLYISOPRENE EMULSION, for example VINYSOL 3700 or VINYSOL 3701C from the company DAIDO CHEMICAL

ACRYLAMIDE / SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMΕΤΗYLTAURATE / ACRYLIC ACID COPOLYMER, for example ACUDYNE SCP from the company DOW CHEMICAL

ACRYLATES / ETHYLHEXYL ACRYLATE / HEMA / STYRENE COPOLYMER (AND)

ACRYLATES / DIMETHYLAMINOETHYL METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER, for example SYNTRAN PC 5776 or SYNTRAN PC5778 from INTERPOLYMER ACRYLATES / VA COPOLYMER, for example VINYSOL 2140 LH from DAIDO CHEMICAL

ACRYLATES COPOLYMER, for example COVACRYL A 15WP or COVACRYL E 14WP or COVACRYL MS 11 WP or COVACRYL MT 10 or Covacryl P12 from the company SENSIENT

ACRYLATES COPOLYMER, for example DAITOSOL 3000SLPN from the company DAITO KASEI

ACRYLATES COPOLYMER, for example YODOSOL GH800PE from AKZO NOBEL

ACRYLATES / ETHYLHEXYL ACRYLATE COPOLYMER, for example DAITOSOL 5000PO or DAITOSOL 5500 GMP from DAITO KASEI

ACRYLATES / OCTYLACRYLAMIDE COPOLYMER, for example DERMACRYL 2.0 20% in water 0.18% TEA from AKZO NOBEL

ACRYLATES / POLYTRIMETHYLSILOXYMETHACRYLATE COPOLYMER AND LAURETH- 1 PHOSPHATE, for example DOW CORNING FA-4103 from DOW CORNING

ACRYLATES / VA COPOLYMER, for example DAIDOL 9015 C from the company DAIDO CHEMICAL

ACRYLIC ESTER COPOLYMER, for example VINYSOL 1076DM2.5 from the company DAIDO CHEMICAL

ACRYLIC ESTER COPOLYMER, for example VINYSOL 1076DM2.5 + 5% BG (95/5) from the company DAIDO CHEMICAL

ACRYLIC ESTER COPOLYMER, for example VINYSOL 1076DM from the company DAIDO CHEMICAL

ACRYLIC ESTER COPOLYMER, for example VINYSOL 1087 FT from the company DAIDO CHEMICAL

AGAR, for example INA AGAR CS-303 (1.5%) or INA AGAR CS-310 (1.5%) from the company INA FOOD INDUSTRY

ALGAE EXTRACT (PORPHYRIDIUM CRUENUM EXTRACT), PULLULAN AND HYDROXYMETHYL CELLULOSE, for example LIFTONIN-XPRESS (10%) from the company RAHN

ALGIN, for example MANUGEL DMB (5%) from the company FMC BIOPOLYMER

AMMONIUM ACRYLATE COPOLYMER, for example Worlee Micromer 60/42 or WORLEE MICROMER C80 / 50 from the company WORLEE, or the products VINYSOL 1086DB, VINYSOL 1089HT, VINYSOL 1089HT + 10% GV from the company DAIDO CHEMICAL

AMMONIUM STYRENE / ACRYLATES COPOLYMER, for example the products in the VINYSOL® range from the company DAIDO CHEMICAL (VINYSOL 1012JC, VINYSOL 1012JC + 10% GV, VINYSOL 1013JH, and VINYSOL 1013JH + + 10% GV)

AMP-ACRYLATES / ALLYL METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER, for example FIXATE G-100 PR POLYMER from the company LUBRIZOL or SYNTRAN KL219 CG from the company INTERPOLYMER

APHANOTHECE SACRUM POLYSACCHARIDE, for example SACRAN (0.5%) from the company DAITO KASEI

AVENA SATIVA (OAT) BRAN EXTRACT AND WATER AND PHENOXYETHANOL, for example OSILIFT 2 from the company SILAB

CAESALPINIA SPINOSA FRUIT EXTRACT (5.10% - 5.95%) CHONDRUS CRISPUS EXTRACT (0.90% - 1.05%), from the company SILAB

CAESALPINIA SPINOSA FRUIT EXTRACT (5.4% - 6.3%) KAPPAPHYCUS ALVAREZII EXTRACT (0.6% - 0.7%), from the company SILAB

CAESALPINIA SPINOSA FRUIT EXTRACT and KAPPAPHYCUS ALVAREZII EXTRACT, for example FILMEXEL® (10%) from the company SILAB

CERATONIA SILIQUA (CAROB) FRUIT EXTRACT (4.8% - 5.6%) KAPPAPHYCUS ALVAREZII EXTRACT (1.2% -1.4%), from the company SILAB

CERATONIA SILIQUA (CAROB) FRUIT EXTRACT (5.10% - 5.95%) CHONDRUS CRISPUS EXTRACT (0.90% - 1.05%), from the company SILAB

Diglycol / CHDM / Isophthalates / SIP Copolymer, for example EASTMAN AQ 38S, EASTMAN AQ 48 or EASTMAN AQ 55S from EASTMAN

DIMETHYLACRYL AMIDE / HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE / METHOXYETHYL ACRYLATE COPOLYMER, for example PLASCIZE L-2700W from the company GOO CHEMICAL

ETHYLCELLULOSE, for example ETHOCEL STD 100 at 10% in alcohol from the company DOW CHEMICAL

ETHYLENE ACRYLIC ACID COPOLYMER (AND) STYRENE ACRYLATES COPOLYMER, for example SYNTRAN PC 5288 from the company INTERPOLYMER

GLYCERYL ROSINATE (AND) AQUAU (AND) CELLULOSE (AND) SODIUM SULFAT, for example NATPURE FILM GR from the company SENSIENT

SODIUM HYALURONATE, for example HYALURONSAN HA-LQ or HYALURONSAN HA-LQH from the company KEWPIE CORPORATION

ISODODECANE, TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE, WATER, PROPANEDIOL, DECYL GLUCOSIDE, CAPRYLYL GLYCOL, HEXYLENE GLYCOL, for example GRANRESIN® SiW-MQIZ diluted 70% in water from GRANT

MANNAN, for example INAGEL MANNAN 100A (1.15%), or INAGEL MANNAN MUSYU (1.15%) from the company INA FOOD INDUSTRY

PENTAERYTHRITYL ROSINATE, AQUA, LAURYL GLUCOSIDE, SODIUM SULFONATE STEARIC ACID, for example NATPURE FILM PR from the company SENSIENT

POLYACRYLATE-21 (AND) ACRYLATES / DIM ETHYLAMINOETHYL METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER, for example SYNTRAN PC 5100 CG from INTERPOLYMER

POLYURETHANE -1 (15-20%) ACRYLATES COPOLYMER (15-20%), for example SU-U1711, SU-U1713 or SU-U1714 from the company JAPAN COATING RESIN

POLYURETHANE -1 (5-10%) ACRYLATES COPOLYMER (20-25%) PEG10 DIMETHICONE (0.001-0.01%), for example SU-U1712 from the company JAPAN COAUNG RESIN

POLYURETHANE RESIN AND ACRYLIC COPOLYMER, for example SUU1251, SU-U1604, SU-U1605 or SU-U1606 from the company JAPAN COAUNG RESIN

POLYURETHANE-1 (AND) ACRYLATES COPOLYMER, for example FHT2000 or FS-1000 from the company CHUO RICA

POLYURETHANE-1 ACRYLATES COPOLYMER, for example DAUOSOL U9-40 from the company DAITO KASEI

POLYURETHANE-35, for example BAYCUSAN C 1004 or BAYCUSAN C

1010 from the company BAYER or CVBWU 117-1 from the company COVESTRO

POLYURETHANE-4 (AND) ACRYLATES COPOLYMER, for example SS3000 from the company CHUO RICA

POLYURETHANE-48, for example BAYCUSAN C 1008 from the company BAYER

POLYURETHANE-64, for example BAYCUSAN C 2000 from the company BAYER

POLYVINYL ALCOHOL, for example SELVOL ULTALUX FA (20%),

SELVOL ULTALUX FF (20%) or SELVOL ULTALUX FP (20%) from the company SEKISUI

POLYVINYLPIRROLIDONE, for example PVPK 30 (20%) from the company ASHLAND

PU-1 - Acrylates- silicone (Dimethicone) 48.75% 148.75% / 2.5%, for example SU-U1509 from the company JAPAN COAUNG RESIN

PU-1 - Acrylates- silicone (PEG-10 Dimethicone) 48.75% / 48.75% /

2.5%, for example SU-U1510 from JAPAN COAUNG RESIN

PULLULAN, for example PULLULAN (COSMEUC GRADE) (20%) from the company HAYASHIBARA

SODIUM POLYSTYRENE SULFONATE AND WATER AND SODIUM

SULFATE, for example FLEXAN II from AKZO NOBEL

STYRENE / ACRYLATES / AMMONIUM METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER, for example SYNTRAN PC 5620 CG or SYNTRAN PE 5760 302-7 from the company INTERPOLYMER

STYRENE I ACRYLATES COPOLYMER, for example DERMACRYL E from AKZO NOBEL, E-5450 A, E-5450 B, E-5450 C from DAIDO CHEMICAL, DAITOSOL 5000 STYP from DAITO KASEI

TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE in emulsion in D5, for example X-522499A or X-52-2499B from the company SHIN ETSU a mixture of SORBITOL, ALGIN, POLYVINYL ALCOHOL, and CELLULOSE GUM

VINYL PYRROLIDONE I ACETATE COPOLYMER, for example PVP / VA S 630 (20%) from the company ISP

VP I Vinyl alcohol Copolymer, for example SELVOL ULTALUX SC (20%) from the company SEKISUL

WATER AND PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS (SWEET ALMOND) SEED EXTRACT, for example POLYLIFT EL from the company SILAB

WATER AND TAPIOCA STARCH, for example INSTENSYL PX from the company SILAB.

The hydrophilic polymer is more particularly chosen from the compounds of names INCI ACRYLAMIDE / SODIUM CRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE / ACRYLIC ACID COPOLYMER, ACACIA SENEGAL GUM AND RHIZOBIAN GUM, CAESALPINIA SPINOSA FRUIT EXTRACT and KAPPAPHYCUS ALVAREZATIATIAVA BRAN EXTRACT AND WATER AND PHENOXYETHANOL, WATER AND PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS (SWEET ALMOND) SEED EXTRACT, PULLULAN, POLYVINYL ALCOHOL, ALGAE EXTRACT (Porphyridium Cruentum Extract), PULLULAN AND HYDROXYYRONUMETHYRESTRATE RHIZOBIAN GUM, CAESALPINIA SPINOSA FRUIT EXTRACT and KAPPAPHYCUS ALVAREZII EXTRACT, ALGAE EXTRACT (Porphyridium Cruentum Extract), and POLYURETHANE-35.

Lipophilic polymer

The tensor polymer can be a lipophilic polymer. It is therefore possible to introduce at least one lipophilic polymer into the first composition and / or into the second composition. The lipophilic polymer is introduced into a phase which also contains the unsaturated organopolysiloxane and / or the hydrogenopolysiloxane. It is different from said unsaturated organopolysiloxane and from said hydrogenopolysiloxane. The lipophilic polymer can alternatively be introduced into a fatty phase different from a fatty phase containing the unsaturated organopolysiloxane and / or the hydrogenopolysiloxane.

The lipophilic polymer preferably comprises one or more silicon atoms. It can have a main chain devoid of silicon atoms on which are linked groups comprising silicon atoms.

The lipophilic polymer preferably has a rate of retraction, measured by any method known to a person skilled in the art, greater than 0%, for example greater than or equal to 3%, preferably greater than or equal to 4%. For example, the contraction rate can be measured by method A described below or by any other method known to those skilled in the art.

The lipophilic polymer can be one of the following INCI denomination polymers:

EICOSENE / VINYLPYRROLIDINOE COPOLYMER, for example ANTARON V-220 (40% IDD) from the company ISP

TRIACONTANYL PVP, for example ANTARON WP660 (15% IDD) from the company INDUCHEM

TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE, for example BELSIL TMS 803 from the company WACKER

ACRYLATES COPOLYMER AND COPERNICIA CERIFERA (CARNAUBA) WAX, for example CA-M1501 from the company JAPAN COATING RESIN (Ex Chuo Rica)

EUPHORBIA CERIFERA EXTRACT, for example CANDELLILA RESIN 2 from the company INA TRADING

ISODODECANE AND TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE / DIMETHICONOL CROSSPOLYMER, for example, DOW CORNING 7-4405 DOW CORNING FC-5002 IDD RESIN GUM from DOW CORNING

CYCLOPENTASILOXANE AND TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE / DIMETHICONOL CROSSPOLYMER, for example DOW CORNING 7-4408 DOWSIL FC-5001 CM RESIN GUM from DOW CORNING

ISODODECANE (AND) ACRYLATES / POLYFRIMETHYLSILOXYMETHACRYLATE COPOLYMER, for example DOW CORNING FA 4002 ID from DOW CORNING

DIMETHICONE (AND) ACRYLATES / POLYMETHYLSILOXYMETHACRYLATE COPOLYMER, for example DOW CORNING FA 4003 DM from DOW CORNING

ISODODECANE (AND) ACRYLATES / POLYMETHYLSILOXYMETHACRYLATE COPOLYMER, for example DOW CORNING FA 4004 or DOW CORNING FV-2123, from Dow corning

TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE AND POLYPROPYLSILSESQUIOXANE WHITE FLAKES, for example DOW CORNING MQ 1640 FLAKE RESIN (40% IDD) from the company DOW CORNING

DIMETHYLPOLYSILOXANE AND TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE, for example FLUID DC 593 from the company DOW CORNING

Acrylic Acid / Isobornyl Methacrylate / Isobutyl Methacrylate Copolymer (and) Isododecane, for example GIOVAREZ AC 34M from the company PHOENIX

Isododecane Acrylates Copolymer, for example GIOVAREZ AC 5099M from the company PHOENIX

Isododecane (and) Behenyl Methacrylate / t-Butyl Methacrylate

Copolymer, for example GIOVAREZ BTB 50 TDS from the company PHOENIX

CYCLOPENTASILOXANE AND POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE / TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE, for example GRANRESIN MQC-T50 from the company GRANT

ISODODECANE (and) 45% TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE (and) 5% C2428 ALKYL METHICONE, for example GRANRESIN MQI-TA from GRANT

ISODODECANE (and) 49% TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE (and) 1%

DIMETHICONOL, for example GRANRESIN MQI-TP from GRANT

POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOAXANE (and) ISODODECANE, for example

GRANRESIN PMSQ-ID FLUID from GRANT

CYCLOPENTASILOXANE AND TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE, for example KF-7312 J from the company SHIN ETSU

CYCLOPENTASILOXANE AND TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE, for example KF-9021 from the company SHIN ETSU

HYDROGENATED POLYCYCLOPENTADIENE AND ISODODECANE, for example KOBOGUARD 5400 IDD from the company KOBO

HYDROGENATED POLYCYCLOPENTADIENE (AND) POLYETHYLENE (AND) COPERNICIA CERIFERA CARNAUBA (WAX) AND TOCOPHEROL, for example KOBOGUARD HRPC from KOBO

ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER, for example KP-549 from the company SHIN ETSU

ISODODECANE and ACRYLATES / DIMETHICONE COPOLYMER, for example KP-550 from the company SHIN ETSU

ACRYLATES COPOLYMER (AND) ISOPARAFIN, for example OM-1 from the company GOO CHEMICAL

ACRYLATES COPOLYMER (AND) the company GOO CHEMICAL

ACRYLATES COPOLYMER (AND) GOO CHEMICAL company

ACRYLATES COPOLYMER (AND) GOO CHEMICAL company

ISOPARAFIN, for example OM-12 from

ISOPARAFIN, for example OM-4 from

ISOPARAFIN, for example OM-6 from

ACRYLATES / T-BUTYLACRYLMIDE COPOLYMER and

TRIETHYLHEXANOIN, for example OM-6TGO from the company GOO CHEMICAL

POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE, e.g. SILFORM FLEXIBLE

RESIN S (40% IDD) from MOMENTIVE

BIS HYDROXYPROPYL DIMETHICONE / SMDI COPOLYMER, for example

SILMER UR-5050 Diluted 30% in IDD from AKOTT

POLYURETHANE-4 AND EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX, for example SU-U1427 from the company JAPAN COAUNG RESIN (Ex Chuo Rica)

POLYURETHANE-1 AND EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX, for example SU-U1531 from the company JAPAN COAUNG RESIN (Ex Chuo Rica)

CYCLOPENTASILOXANE and TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILYLCARBAMOYL

PULLULAN, for example TSPL-25-D5-F from SHIN ETSU

TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILYLCARBAMOYL PULLULAN, for example TSPL30-ID-F from the company SHIN ETSU

TRIACONTANYL PVP, for example UNIMER U6 (15% IDD) from the company INDUCHEM

VP / EICOSENE COPOLYMER, for example UNIMER-15, UNIMER-151, UNIMER-1946 (40% IDD) from the company INDUCHEM

CYCLOPENTASILOXANE AND TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILYL CARBAMOYL

BUTENDIOL / VINYL ALCOHOL COPOLYMER, for example VA-25-D5 from the company SHIN ETSU

ISODODECANE AND TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILYL CARBAMOYL

BUTENDIOL / VINYL ALCOHOL COPOLYMER, for example VA-25-ID from the company SHIN ETSU

TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE, for example X-21-5037 POWDER MQ RESIN (Disp at 70% IDD) from the company SHIN ETSU

CYCLOPENTASILOXANE AND TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE, for example X21-5249 from the company SHIN ETSU

BRASSICA CAMPESTRIS / ALEURITES FORDI OIL COPOLYMER, for example PHYTOVIE DEFENSE from TRI-K INDUSTRY

HYDROGENATED POLYCYCLOPENTADIENE, for example ESCOREZ

5380 (40 to 50% IDD) from the company EXXON MOBIL CHEMICAL

PHYTOSTEROLS, for example TECHNOL SD (NON-GMO) from the company YOKOZEKI OIL & FAT INDUSTRIES

DEXTRIN ISOSTEARATE, for example UNIFILMA HYV from the company CHIBA FLOOR MILLING.

According to a particular embodiment, the set of compositions comprises both a hydrophilic polymer and a lipophilic polymer as described above.

According to a variant of the invention,

the first composition may comprise the unsaturated polyorganosiloxane, from 30 to 90% by mass of a mixture of oils, optionally a lipophilic polymer, and optionally, an aqueous phase which may contain a hydrophilic polymer, and

- The second composition may comprise hydrogenopolysiloxane, from 30 to 90% by mass of a mixture of oils, optionally a lipophilic polymer, and optionally, an aqueous phase which may contain a hydrophilic polymer.

By “oil” within the meaning of the invention is meant a compound liquid at 25 ° C, different from the unsaturated polyorganosiloxane, hydrogenopolysiloxane and the lipophilic polymer, when the latter is silicone liquid at 25 ° C.

The assembly can comprise at least two tensor polymers, including at least one hydrophilic polymer and at least one lipophilic polymer. The set can meet one of the following characteristics or one of their combinations:

the first composition contains a tensor polymer,

the second composition contains a tensor polymer,

the first composition comprises at least one hydrophilic polymer,

the first composition comprises at least one lipophilic polymer,

the first composition is devoid of a lipophilic polymer and of a hydrophilic polymer,

the second composition is devoid of a lipophilic polymer and a hydrophilic polymer,

the second composition comprises at least one hydrophilic polymer,

the second composition comprises at least one lipophilic polymer,

the first composition comprises at least one unsaturated organopolysiloxane,

- The second composition comprises at least one hydrogenopolysiloxane.

According to one embodiment, the assembly comprises from 1% to 7% by mass of an unsaturated organopolysiloxane of viscosity of between 100 cPs and 500,000 cPs, for example between 500 and 100,000 cPs, the percentages by mass being expressed by relative to the mass of the set of compositions.

Method A for measuring the percentage of withdrawal of a product

On a rubber support (for example reference DOMYOS FIT BAND light 200 μm thick), a film of a hundred microns thick is spread with an aqueous dispersion of DAITOSOL® 5000 STYP polymer (STYRENE / ACRYLATES COPOLYMER 50% in water). The assembly comprising the support and the copolymer film is dried in an oven, then a rectangular test piece is cut which is placed, copolymer side up, between the jaws of a texturometer. The length of the test piece between the jaws corresponds to the initial length. The product to be tested containing water or a volatile organic solvent is deposited on the test piece. The product to be tested can be a lipophilic polymer, a hydrophilic polymer, a first composition, or a second composition, or a mixture of first composition and second composition.

The tensile force exerted by the test piece is recorded throughout the drying of the product, and the length of the test piece is noted once the force has stabilized (final length). The rate of withdrawal is equal to the ratio (final length, initial length) / initial length.

Throughout the duration of the measurements, the humidity level can be kept constant at a value between 45% and 70%, for example between 50% and 60%, and the temperature can be kept constant at a value between 20 ° C and 25 ° C.

Method for mechanical characterization of a composition film

The mechanical properties of the cosmetic composition film can be evaluated by the following method.

The mixture of the first composition and the second composition is prepared, then the mixture is spread to form a film on a support. After drying in an oven at 25 ° C, the film is peeled off from the support, then cut into a test tube. During drying, the humidity level can be maintained. Using a texturometer equipped with a force sensor, and two jaws making it possible to place the test piece of product to be evaluated and to measure a force as a function of a stretching distance, a stretching of the The test piece is made at a constant speed, until it breaks, or until the maximum stretch authorized by the device if the test piece does not break.

The different areas of behavior of the film are:

- the elastic domain: a film stretched in this domain instantly recovers its initial conformation after the stretching has stopped.

- the visco-elastic domain: a film stretched to this domain, at a stretching distance greater than the elastic domain, recovers its initial conformation after a variable duration (relaxation time).

- the plastic domain: a film stretched to this domain, at a stretching distance greater than the two previous domains, undergoes irreversible deformations, it does not recover its initial conformation and will remain relaxed.

Depending on the properties of the film, these three areas can have different proportions. Also, under the operating conditions, certain domains may not be attainable, such as the plastic domain, possibly the visco-elastic domain.

The different parameters measured are:

- Young's modulus defined as the pressure necessary (in MPa) to stretch the test piece in its elastic range. The higher this parameter, the greater the force required to stretch the specimen. The average value for the skin being of the order of 1 MPa, we will look for a film whose Young's modulus approaches it.

- The elastic limit defined as the maximum stretch value of the elastic domain,

- The rupture being defined as the maximum stretching distance bearable by the film before its rupture, and

- loss of elasticity or resistance to fatigue.

In one embodiment of the method, the test piece is subjected to a cyclic stretching, at a speed of 1 mm / sec, at 50% stretching, and over 25 cycles.

The loss of elasticity is evaluated in% with the following formula: 100 * (area of the first cycle-area of the last cylce) / area of the first cycle.

A polymer film or cosmetic composition is considered to be all the more resistant to fatigue as its loss of elasticity is low.

It is preferred in the context of the invention that the Young's modulus of a film obtained after mixing the compositions of the assembly comprising at least one unsaturated organopolysiloxane, at least one hydrogenopolysiloxane and at least one hydrosilylation catalyst has at least one of the following mechanical properties:

a Young's modulus less than 1 MPa, preferably less than 0.5 MPa, for example between 0.1 and 0.4 MPa,

- an elongation at break ranging from 100 to 700%, preferably from 300 to 600%

- an elastic limit greater than 40%, preferably ranging from 50% to 200%

- a resistance to stretching between 0.05 and 0.1%.

Other ingredients

The set of compositions may also contain at least one compound chosen from pigments, dyes, pearlescent agents, perfumes, bulking agents, adhesion promoters, oils other than an unsaturated organopolysiloxane and a hydrogenopolysiloxane as described above, solid fatty compounds, gelling compounds which gelling water or gelling an oil, said gelling compounds being different from a hydrophilic or lipophilic polymer as described above, surfactants, sun filters , preservatives, non-gelling film-forming polymers whose shrinkage rate is equal to 0%, silicone elastomers such as crosslinked dimethicones, polyols, biologically active compounds, and pH adjusters.

Preferably, the set of compositions comprises at least one pigment or a dye. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made, for example, of D&C Red pigments No. 27; D & C Red n ° 22; D & C Red n ° 21; D & C Red n ° 28; D&C orange n ° 4; D & C Red n ° 33; D & C Red n ° 7; D & C Red n ° 6; D & C

Yellow # 5; D & C Red n ° 36; D & C Yellow n ° 6; D & C Red n ° 30; D & C Blue 1 and cochineal carmine lacquers.

Among the dyes, mention may be made of Yellow 5, Yellow 6, Blue 1, Green 5, Green 3, Green 6, Orange 4, Red 4, Red 21, Red 22, Red 27, Red 28, Red 33, Red 40, cochineal carmine (Cl 15850, Cl 75470). The liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, beta-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, quinoline yellow, annatto.

The pearlescent pigments can be chosen in particular from white pearlescent pigments, such as mica coated with titanium oxide, bismuth oxychloride; and colored pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the above type, as well as pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. These pigments can have the following INCI names: CALCIUM SODIUM BOROSILICATE, TIN OXIDE, SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE, SILICA, ALUMINA, ALUMINUM HYDROXIDE, MICA and CALCIUM ALUMINIUM BOROSILICATE.

The assembly may include one or more cosmetic active agents chosen in particular from:

- skin firming agents, such as peptides stimulating the synthesis of other types of collagen than that of type I, in particular collagen of type III, or VII, an extract of Centella asiatica, madecassic acid , Asian acid, madecassoside, oat extract, Bertholletia excelsa extract, protein hydrolyzate, soy peptides, Potentilla erecta extract, Siegesbeckia orientalis extract, ginsenosides or notoginsenosides.

- elastase inhibitors such as extracts of Aspergillus fumigatus, Momordica charantia, Cucurbita maxima;

- agents stimulating the synthesis of dermatopontin, such as an amber extract;

- pore tightening agents such as extracts of astringent plants, for example an extract of Hamamelis sp. ;

- physical or chemical filters protecting from UVA and UVB radiation, such as benzophenone, 4-butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, octocrylene, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, phenylbenzymidazole sulfonic acid, homosalate, alone or in combination with titanium oxides;

- agents intended to combat pigmentation disorders, in particular those linked to skin aging, such as kojic acid, extracts of liquorice or mulberry root, arbutin, calcium pantothenosulfonate, boldine, diacetylboldlne, extracts of lily, in particular of bulb;

- anti-radical or anti-inflammatory agents such as an extract of Artemisia capillaris, an extract of Sanguisorba officinalis, resveratrol and its derivatives, turmeric or curcumin or tetrahydrocurcumin, polyphenols extracted from grape seeds, vitamin E and its derivatives, in particular its phosphate derivatives, ergothioneine or its derivatives, idebenone;

- magnesium aspartate or adenosine to improve the anti-wrinkle action;

- D-xylose to improve the "plumping effect" for plump skin; and any of their mixtures.

The active can also be chosen from an extract of Ajuga turkestanica, an extract of Paeonia suffrutica, an extract of roses, Kniphophia uvaria, Helianthus annuus, Malva sylvestris, Glycine max, Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Onopordum acanthrium, Zea mays, Filipendula ulmaria, Salix alba, Rhodophyccea, Centella asiatica, and ascorbic-2-glucoside, an extract of Aframomum angustifolium or LONGOZA.

When the first composition or the second composition contains water, the amount of water can range from 5% to 95% by mass of the mass of the composition. Water preferably represents from 60 to 85% by mass of the mass of the first composition. Water preferably represents from 60 to 85% by mass of the mass of the second composition.

The set of compositions can comprise at least one oil chosen from volatile liquid silicones, non-volatile liquid silicones, and volatile hydrocarbon oils and non-volatile hydrocarbon oils. Liquid silicones are liquid compounds at 25 ° C, different from unsaturated polyorganosiloxane, hydrogenopolysiloxane and lipophilic polymer, when the latter is silicone and liquid at 25 ° C.

The set of compositions can contain at least one oil, preferably a silicone oil. Among these oils, mention may be made of linear dimethicones with a viscosity of between 0.1 and 100 cSt, cyclic dimethicones and phenyltrimethicones.

Each composition can independently of the other comprise from 5% to 90% by mass of at least one oil relative to the mass of the composition. These oils can be chosen from cyclopentasiloxane, a C9-C12 alkane, a dimethicone and myreth-3 myristate.

The compositions can also comprise, independently of each other, from 0.1% to 6% by mass relative to the mass of the composition, of solid fatty compounds, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, a butter. vegetable such as shea butter, or a wax such as a hydrogenated derivative of olive oil.

The surfactants can be chosen from surfactants known to those skilled in the art. Mention will be made more particularly of SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE, POLYSORBATE 20 and their mixtures (for example the product Sepiplus® 400), PEG12 DIMETHICONE (for example the product SILSOFT® 880), the product Bis-PEG / PPG20 / 5 PEG / PPG- 20/5 Dimethicone (and) Methoxy PEG / PPG-25/4 Dimethicone (and) Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride commercial reference ABIL CARE® XL 80, the commercial product Eumulgin® LG, or the commercial product Emulium® Mellifera MB.

Among the aqueous gelling agents are carbomers (crosslinked acrylate copolymers, for example a homopolymer of crosslinked acrylic acid with a crosslinking agent chosen from allyl ether of pentaerythitol, allyl ether of sucrose, and allyl ether of propylene), crosslinked methyl methacrylates, xanthan gums, hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer (Simulgel® NS), a polyacrylamide such as Sepigel® 305.

The assembly may contain at least one silicone elastomer to give more consistency to the oil or oils contained in the first composition or in the second composition. The silicone elastomer can also mask skin imperfections, matify the skin or soften the feel of the product film on the skin.

Such elastomers are for example a DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (DOW CORNING EL 9241 DM®), a product of the brand GRANSIL® (POLYSILICONE-11) and a product of the brand KSG® (DIMETHICONE / VINYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER).

The assembly advantageously contains a mineral powder, which can advantageously improve the adhesion of the film formed on the body. This mineral powder can be a silica, such as silica fume, the silica comprising on the surface trialkyl silyl groups, for example hexamethyl disilazane (INCI silica silylate). Mineral powders as described above can advantageously be added to the first composition and / or to the second composition so as to improve the cohesion of the film formed on the body.

Examples of polyols are glycerin, caprylyl glycol and pentylene glycol. They are preferably present in an amount of less than 30% by mass of the mass of the set of compositions.

Cosmetic process

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up or caring for the skin, eyelashes, nails or lips using the product described above, said process comprising

a step of applying a first composition to the skin, the eyelashes, the nails or the lips, followed by a step of applying the second composition to the deposit of the first composition, or comprising

a step of applying a second composition to the skin, the eyelashes, the nails or the lips, followed by a step of applying the first composition to the deposition of the second composition, or comprising

a step of mixing the first and the second composition, followed by a step of applying said mixture to the skin, the eyelashes, the nails or the lips.

This method can include a step of applying a third composition, which step is

- prior to the step of applying the first composition and to the step of applying the second composition, or

- after the step of applying the first composition and after the step of applying the second composition.

The two compositions can be packaged in a container provided with two reservoirs and with a double end piece making it possible to mix the two compositions at the outlet of the container and to carry out the application in a single gesture.

A make-up or skin care method which uses a product as described above, to be used to compensate for the loss of elasticity which the skin undergoes with age by forming a film on the skin having a lasting elasticity and a very low Young's modulus, the elasticity of the film and the Young's modulus having values close to those of young skin. Such mechanical properties are provided with a completely imperceptible film, as if the skin had regained its elasticity of initial youth.

A make-up or skin care process which implements a product as described above can also be used to maintain the hydration of the skin or to protect the skin from exogenous aggression factors, such as pollution.

In the examples which follow, the percentages are percentages by mass expressed relative to the total mass of the composition, unless otherwise stated. Ingredient names are either chemical names, brand names, or INCI names.

EXAMPLES: Preparation of crosslinked films and mechanical characterization

The following compositions were prepared and the mechanical properties of the films obtained from these compositions were evaluated.

The order of application of the first and second compositions to the skin may vary. In a first variant, the first composition is applied to the skin before applying the second composition. In a second variant, the second composition is applied to the skin prior to the first composition.

A. First anhydrous composition comprising a vinyldimethicone and second anhydrous composition comprising a hydrogenodimethicone

Table 1

First composition COMPOSITION -205 -216 -217 INCI - Trade name % Cyclopentasiloxane 69.90 69.90 69.90 C9-12 ALKANE 20.00 20.00 20.00 VINYL DIMETHICONE (ANDISIL®VS 10 000) 10.00 - - VINYL DIMETHICONE (ANDISIL®VS 165,000) - 10.0 - VINYL DIMETHICONE (ANDISIL®VS 80 000) - - 10.0 Platinum (0) -1,3-divinyl-1,1,3,3-tetramethyldisiloxane COMPLEX SOLUTION (CAS: 68478-92-2) 0.10 0.10 0.10

Table 2

Second composition COMPOSITION -206 INCI- Trade name % HYDROGEN DIMETHICONE (ANDISIL® XL11) 2.00 DIMETHICONE (AND) DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (DOW CORNING EL 9241 DM) ® 40.00 C9-12 ALKANE 20.00 Cyclopentasiloxane 38.00

Method of manufacturing the compositions:

All the ingredients are mixed with Rayneri at room temperature until a homogeneous phase is obtained.

B. First silicone-in-water emulsion composition comprising a vinyldimethicone and Second silicone-in-water emulsion composition comprising a hydrogenodimethicone

Table 3

Phase INCI- Trade name 1st Composition -243 2nd composition -244 al VINYL DIMETHICONE (ANDISIL®VS 80 000) 10.0 - al PLATINUM (0) -1,3-DIVINYL-l, 1,3,3- TETRAMETHYLDISILOXANE COMPLEX SOLUTION 0.1 - al HYDROGEN DIMETHICONE (ANDISIL®XL11) - 2.0 al DIMETHICONE 100 CS 15.0 3.5 al C9-12 ALKANE 5.0 1.0 A2 POLYACRYLATE-13 (AND) POLYISOBUTENE (AND) SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE (AND) POLYSORBATE 20 (AND) AQUA (SEPIPLUS 400) ® 4.0 3.5 al DIMETHICONE (AND) DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (DOW CORNING EL 9241 DM) - 5.0 al Cyclopentasiloxane - 18.0 bl AQUA 62.8 61.1 bl GLYCERIN 2.5 - bl PHENOXYETHANOL 0.6 0.6 B2 ACACIA SENEGAL GUM - 3.6 B2 RHIZOBIAN GUM - 0.4

Process for manufacturing silicone-in-water emulsions • Preparation of the silicone phase: Weigh Al in the main beaker, disperse under Rayneri at room temperature until a homogeneous phase is obtained. Weigh A2 in a dish and add it to Al under Rayneri. Mix until homogeneous.

• Preparation of the aqueous phase: Weigh Bl in a beaker and mix under Rayneri. Weigh B2 in a capsule and add it to the main beaker in fine rain, mix until completely dispersed (15 min with moderate stirring to avoid bubbles).

• Realization of the silicone-in-water type emulsion: Emulsify B in A under Rayneri gradually (with a pipette) and increase the stirring speed up to 1000 rpm. Mix for a minimum of 30 minutes then bubble off while reducing the speed.

C. First water-in-silicone emulsion composition and second water-in-silicone composition

Table 4

Phase INCI- Trade name 1st Composition -238 2nd composition -239 al VINYL DIMETHICONE (ANDISIL®VS 80 000) 10.00 - al PLATINUM (0) -1,3-DIVINYL-l, 1,3,3- TETRAMETHYLDISILOXANE COMPLEX SOLUTION 0.10 - al HYDROGEN DIMETHICONE (ANDISIL® XL11) - 2.00 al DIMETHICONE (AND) DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (DOW CORNING EL 9241 DM) - 8.00 al PEG-9 POLYDIMETHYLSILOXYETHYL DIMETHICONE (KF-6028) 4.00 4.00 al Cyclopentasiloxane 20.0 20.0 al C9-12 ALKANE 20.00 20.00 bl AQUA Qsp 100 Qsp 100 bl PHENOXYETHANOL 0.60 0.60 bl GLYCERIN 2.5 2.5

Process for making water-in-silicone emulsions • Preparation of the silicone phase: Weigh A in the main beaker, disperse under Rayneri at room temperature until a homogeneous phase is obtained.

• Preparation of the aqueous phase: Weigh Bl in a beaker and mix under rayneri.

Add B2 (Si B2) in fine rain to Bl with stirring, until complete dispersion.

• Realization of the Water type emulsion in Silicone: Emulsify B in A under Rayneri gradually (with a pipette) and increase the stirring speed up to lOOOtr / min. Mix for a minimum of 30 minutes then bubble off while reducing the speed.

D. First compositions in silicone-in-water emulsion and Second composition in silicone-in-water emulsion

The following compositions were prepared, the details of which are given in the two tables below, and which were prepared according to the same process as that used to prepare the preceding compositions -243 and -244.

Table 5 - First compositions

COMPOSITION -248 -264 -266 -254 Phase INCI % by mass al HYDROGEN DIMETHICONE (ANDISIL® XL11) 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 al DIMETHICONE (AND) DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (DOW CORNING EL® 9241 DM) 5.00 5.00 5.00 8.00 al Cyclopentasiloxane 4.0 - - 4.0 al ISODODECANE (AND) TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILYLCARBAMOYL PULLULAN (TSPL-30-ID-F®) - 9.0 8.0 - A2 TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE (BELSIL® TMS 803) - - - 4.0 A2 POLYACRYLATE-13 (AND) POLYISOBUTENE (AND) SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE (AND) POLYSORBATE 20 (AND) AQUA (SEPIPLUS 400) ® 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 bl AQUA Qsp 100 qs 100 qs 100 qs 100 bl PHENOXYETHANOL 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 B2 PULLULAN 5.0 - 5.0 5.0

Table 6 - Second composition

-243 Phase INCI- Norn commercial % by mass al VINYL DIMETHICONE (ANDISIL®VS 80 000) 10.0 al PLATINUM (0) -1,3-DIVINYL-l, 1,3,3TETRAMETHYLDISILOXANE COMPLEX SOLUTION 0.1 al C9-12 ALKANE 5.0 A2 TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE (BELSIL® TMS 803) 4.0 A2 POLYACRYLATE-13 (AND) POLYISOBUTENE (AND) SORBITAN ISOSTEARATE (AND) POLYSORBATE 20 (AND) AQUA (SEPIPLUS 400) ® 4.0 bl AQUA Qsp 100 bl GLYCERIN 2.5 bl PHENOXYETHANOL 0.6 B2 PULLULAN 5.0

E. Preparation of crosslinked films obtained from the compositions, and mechanical characterization of these films

When the two compositions are anhydrous, a 50/50 mass mixture of the two compositions is weighed in a stainless steel capsule: 5g of a first composition containing vinyldimethicone, and 5g of a second composition containing hydrogenodimethicone.

When the two compositions are in emulsion, the first and the second composition are mixed with a spatula, then a spreading of 600 μm in thickness is carried out on FP100. After drying for 24 hours in an oven at 25 ° C, several 5 x 3 cm test pieces are cut from the film. Each test piece is placed between the jaws of a texturometer spaced 30 mm apart.

To measure the rupture and the Young's modulus, the test piece is drawn at 1 mm / sec, until it breaks if necessary. The resistance to fatigue is measured by carrying out 25 cycles of stretching, at 1 mm / sec, and at 50% of the initial length of the test piece.

The results are presented in the following table.

Table 7

Film obtained with Young module (mpa) Elongation at break (%) Elasticity limit (%) Resistance to stretching (n / mm ² ) Fatigue (number of cycles supported) -205 and -206 0.41 150 51.7 0.06 25 -216 and -206 0.12 517 167.7 0.07 25 -217 and -206 0.15 410 186.7 0.09 25 -244 and -243 0.7 597 97 0.1 25 -244 + -238 0.27 557 88 0.04 25

All these systems have a very low Young's modulus, similar to that of young skin, which makes it possible to provide a mechanical effect on the skin that is completely imperceptible, as if the skin had regained its initial elasticity.

All these systems have a high elongation so that the film can follow the movements of the skin without breaking. This strong elongation capacity is durable (25 cycles supported).

These properties are obtained for the following combinations of first and second compositions: a first silicone-in-water composition and a second silicone-in-water composition, a first water-in-silicone composition and a second water-in-silicone composition, a first silicone-in-water composition and a second water-in-silicone composition, a first water-in-silicone composition and a second silicone-in-water composition, a first anhydrous composition and a second anhydrous composition.

F- Measurement of the percentage of shrinkage of the crosslinked silicone films

The tightening effect was evaluated at 25 ° C according to the following method, proceeding in 2 steps:

- Preparation of a film of first composition containing the hydrogenodimethicone (gesture 1), and measurement of the percentage of shrinkage of the film,

- Preparation of a second composition film containing vinyldimethicone (gesture 2), and measurement of the shrinkage percentage of the film,

- Calculation of the total withdrawal percentage equal to the sum of the two percentages previously measured.

Method

A 17 * 7 cm rectangle was cut from a 200 μm thick DOMYOS FIT BAND® light elastic rubber reference band, then 100 microns of an aqueous dispersion of DAITOSOL® 5000 STYP polymer (STYRENE) was spread over it. / ACRYLATES COPOLYMER 50% in water).

The assembly comprising the support and the copolymer film was dried in an oven at 25 ° C for 24 hours. A test piece 7 cm long and 3 cm wide was then cut, and placed between the two jaws of a TAXTPIus® Texturometer spaced 5 cm apart (initial length), the force applied being zero.

In an atmosphere at a controlled temperature of 22.5 ° C., the first composition was deposited on the test piece. The tensile force exerted by the test piece was recorded throughout the drying of the product, and the length of the test piece was noted after the force stabilized (final length). To obtain the shrinkage rate of the first composition, the ratio (final length initial length) / initial length was calculated.

The previous protocol was reproduced with the second composition.

The percentage of retraction of the whole of the first and of the second composition was equal to the sum of the two percentages of each of the films of compositions measured previously.

Results

The results are presented in the table below.

Table 8

Percentage of withdrawal FORMS ^1st composition ^2nd composition Total -248 and -263 1.4 0.6 2.0 -254 and -255 1.2 1.7 2.3

Claims (13)

claims 1. Cosmetic makeup or care product comprising i) a set of at least two compositions, said set comprising at least one unsaturated organopolysiloxane, at least one hydrogenopolysiloxane and at least one hydrosilylation catalyst, and ii) a packaging means suitable for avoiding the reaction between the unsaturated organopolysiloxane, said hydrogenopolysiloxane and said catalyst during the conservation of said product, and before its use for make-up or skin care, at least one of the two compositions being in the form of an emulsion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase or of an emulsion of an aqueous phase in a fatty phase, said fatty phase comprising either the unsaturated organopolysiloxane or the hydrogenopolysiloxane, the other composition possibly containing water or not. 2. Product according to claim 1, characterized in that the total content of unsaturated organopolysiloxane (s) ranges from 0.5% to 20% by mass of the mass of the whole. 3. Product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty phase contains at least one non-volatile oil which can be chosen from dimethicones, phenyldimethicones and esters. 4. Product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion comprises at least one volatile solvent. 5. Product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the emulsion contains 35% to 80% by mass of water. 6. Product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said at least two compositions are in the form of an emulsion. 7. Product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the assembly comprises less than 25% by mass of unsaturated organopolysiloxane, a non-volatile oil, and a pigment. 8. Product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the set of compositions comprises a first composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, and a second composition in the form of an oil-in emulsion in-water. 9. Product according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the set of compositions comprises a first composition in the form of a water-oil emulsion and a second composition in the anhydrous form. 10. Product according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the set of compositions comprises a first composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion and a second composition in the form of a water-in emulsion -oil. 11. Product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first composition contains an unsaturated organopolysiloxane and / or a hydrogenopolysiloxane. 12. Product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second composition contains an unsaturated organopolysiloxane and / or a hydrogenopolysiloxane. 13. Cosmetic method for making up or caring for the skin, eyelashes, nails or lips using a product according to one of claims 1 to 12, said method comprising a step of applying a first composition to the skin, the eyelashes, the nails or the lips, followed by a step of applying the second composition to the deposit of the first composition, or comprising a step of applying a second composition to the skin, the eyelashes, the nails or the lips, followed by a step of applying the first composition to the deposition of the second composition, or comprising a step of mixing the first and the second composition, followed by a step of applying said mixture to the skin, the eyelashes, the nails or the lips.