FR2892931A1 - Cosmetic product, useful as make-up and/or care product for keratinous matters, comprises composition of film forming polymer e.g. hydrocarbon polymers and another composition of liquid fatty phase containing hydrocarbon oil - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic product, particularly make-up and/or care for the keratinous matters comprises a first composition (I) comprising a film forming polymer e.g. hydrocarbon polymers and hydrocarbon and silicone hybrid polymers, and a second composition (II) comprising a liquid fatty phase containing a hydrocarbon oil, where (I) is present in the form of an emulsion having an aqueous and a fatty phases and (II) in the form of an anhydrous.

Description

The present invention relates to a new cosmetic product

  comprising at least two compositions that can be applied successively to the skin of both the face and the body, on the lower and upper eyelids, on the lips and on the integuments such as nails, eyebrows, eyelashes or hair. Each composition can be a foundation, a blush, an anti-ring product, a blush, a lipstick, a lip balm, a lip gloss, a lip pencil or eyeliner, a mascara, an eyeliner, a nail polish or a body make-up or skin coloring product. In the cosmetic field, the development of formulations having both good properties in terms of application and comfort, and properties that are satisfactory in terms of hold, in particular gloss retention and non-migration, is a prerequisite. a permanent goal. The raw materials generally used to obtain these properties are high gloss, high refractive index viscous oils, preferably hydrocarbon oils such as polybutenes for example. However, these raw materials can in certain conditions pose problems of stickiness and especially of migration when they are used at a high rate.

  The significant migration of a liquid fatty phase loaded with dyestuffs or active products leads to an unsightly or uncomfortable effect, particularly accentuating wrinkles and fine lines. This migration is often cited by women as a major flaw in classic lipsticks.

  It is known that it is possible to limit the migration of the compositions through the addition of fillers. The application FR 2 858 214 describes it. However, it has been found that this addition of fillers takes place to the detriment of the brightness of the compositions obtained, and often leads to a drought felt during the application of the formulas.

  As a result, brighter formulations, whose gloss is maintained over time after application of the product, and whose migration is further diminished, are sought.

  The invention overcomes the disadvantages of the products of the prior art. It relates to a cosmetic product, in particular for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, containing a first and a second composition intended to be applied to the keratin materials one on the other. the first composition being in the form of an emulsion of an aqueous phase and of a fatty phase comprising at least one film-forming polymer chosen from hydrocarbon polymers and hybrid hydrocarbon and silicone polymers, the second composition being anhydrous and comprising a liquid fatty phase containing at least one hydrocarbon oil.

  According to one embodiment, the hydrocarbon oil is predominant in said liquid fatty phase. The emulsion of an aqueous phase and of a fatty phase can in particular be an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, or a multiple (W / O / W or polyol / H / E or H / E / H).

  The first composition may comprise a surfactant or a mixture of surfactants, in particular a surfactant whose HLB (hydrophilic / lipophilic balance) is suitable in the emulsion sense.

  As surfactants suitable for obtaining an W / O emulsion, mention may be made of those having an HLB of less than 7 and in particular the fatty acid esters of polyols such as mono-, di-, tri- or sesquioleades or stearates of sorbitol or glycerol, laurates of glycerol or polyethylene glycol; alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone copolyols with an alkyl or pendant alkoxy chain or at the end of a silicone backbone having, for example, from 6 to 22 carbon atoms.

  As surfactants that can be used to obtain an O / W emulsion, mention may be made of those having an HLB greater than 7, such as the polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters (monostearate or polyethylene glycol monolaurate); fatty acid esters (stearate, oleate) of polyoxyethylenated sorbitol; polyoxyethylenated alkyl (lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, octyl) ethers and dimethicone copolyols. In general, it is possible to use any ionic surfactant (cationic or anionic) amphoteric and any nonionic surfactant, well known to those skilled in the art.

  The surfactant may be present in the first composition in a content ranging from 0.3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, and preferably ranging from 1% to 5% by weight.

  The hydrocarbon-forming film-forming polymer is advantageously used in a small proportion, typically of the order of 5% by weight of the composition, or less.

  The product of the invention makes it possible to limit migration in wrinkles and fine lines, which is particularly sought after for a lipstick or for a product applied to the eyes or around the eyes.

  The first composition is intended to fix the deposition of the second, which would tend to migrate out of the initial layout if it was applied alone directly to the keratin materials.

  The Applicant has selected a first composition used as a base to limit the migration of a composition containing an oily phase containing a hydrocarbon oil, especially a hydrocarbon oil in a high proportion in said composition.

  The selection of a particular base makes it possible to obtain a glossy and comfortable cosmetic product that does not migrate. The product of the invention is particularly suitable for making lip makeup products such as lipsticks, lip glosses, eyes such as mascara, eyeliners, eye shadows, or skin such as backdrops. complexion.

  "Makeup product" means a product containing a coloring agent for the deposition of a color on a keratin material (skin, lips or superficial body growths) such as lipsticks, makeup, eyeliners, foundations or self-tanners, semi-permanent make-up products (tattoo).

  The product according to the invention comprises two compositions packaged separately or together in one and the same packaging article or in two (or more) separate or separate packaging articles.

  Preferably, these compositions are packaged separately and advantageously in separate packaging articles.

  The object of the present invention is in particular a cosmetic makeup or care product in the form of a foundation, a blush or eyelids, a lipstick, a mascara, a product having particular care properties, an eyeliner, a concealer product, or a body makeup product (tattoo type).

  The invention also relates to a makeup kit containing a cosmetic makeup or care product as defined above, wherein the various compositions are packaged separately and are accompanied by appropriate application means. These means may be brushes, brushes, pens, pencils, felts, feathers, sponges and / or foams.

  The first composition of the product according to the invention constitutes a base layer applied to the keratin materials and the second composition a top layer.

  In particular the first composition is a makeup base, a corrective product, a foundation, a makeup, a lipstick, an eyeliner, a body makeup product, and the top layer a care product or protective, a lip gloss.

  The invention also relates to a process for making up the skin and / or the lips and / or the integuments comprising applying to the skin and / or the lips and / or the integuments the first and then the second composition of the cosmetic product of makeup as defined above.

  The subject of the invention is also a process for making up or caring for the skin and / or the lips and / or integuments of a human being, consisting in applying to the skin, the lips and / or the integuments successively a first layer of said first composition described above, then to apply to this first layer a second layer of the second composition described above.

  The second layer can form patterns and can be applied with a pen, pencil or other instrument (sponge, finger, brush, brush, foam, feather etc.). This makeup can also be applied to make-up accessories such as false nails, false eyelashes, wigs or patches or adherent patches on the skin or lips (fly type).

  Finally, the subject of the invention is the use of a composition in the form of an emulsion of an aqueous phase and of a fatty phase comprising at least one film-forming polymer chosen from hydrocarbon polymers and hybrid hydrocarbon and silicone polymers. to decrease the migration of an anhydrous composition comprising a liquid fatty phase containing at least one hydrocarbon oil.

  FILMOGENEOUS POLYMER The first composition according to the invention comprises at least one film-forming polymer chosen from hydrocarbon polymers and hybrid hydrocarbon and silicone polymers.

  For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymer" means a compound having at least 2 repeating units, and preferably at least 3 repeating units.

  By "film-forming" polymer is meant a polymer capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a film which is macroscopically continuous on a support, in particular on keratin materials, and preferably a cohesive film and better still a film whose cohesion and mechanical properties are such that said film can be isolated from said support. According to one embodiment, the polymer is not crystalline, in that the term film-forming polymer does not cover waxes. According to another embodiment, the film-forming polymer is a solid at 25 ° C in the sense that its flow is not observed with the naked eye after a period of one hour.

  The polymer may be present in the first composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 40% by weight, preferably ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 1% to 25% by weight.

  In one embodiment, the polymer is a film-forming organic polymer. When the first composition contains an organic liquid medium, the film-forming polymer may be chosen from film-forming polymers that are soluble in said organic liquid medium, in particular liposoluble polymers, when the organic liquid medium comprises at least one oil. In this case, the film-forming polymer may also be chosen from dispersible film-forming polymers in an organic liquid medium, in particular polymers in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, preferably dispersions in silicone or hydrocarbon oils.

  When the first composition comprises an aqueous phase, the film-forming polymer may be selected from film-forming polymers in the form of aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, often referred to as latex, or water-soluble film-forming polymers.

  Among the film-forming polymers that can be used in the first composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of free-radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof. As film-forming polymer, there may be mentioned in particular acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, cellulose polymers such as nitrocellulose, polyamide polymers and copolymers. The film-forming polymer may be chosen from the film-forming polymers described in application WO 04/028487, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.

  Film-forming polymers are described in particular in the international patent application filed under PCT / FR03 / 02849, the contents of which are incorporated by reference.

  The film-forming polymer may be a film-forming linear ethylenic block polymer, advantageously free of styrene. More preferably, the sequenced polymer comprises less a first block and at least a second block having different glass transition temperatures (Tg), said first and second blocks being interconnected by an intermediate block comprising at least one constituent monomer. the first sequence and at least one constituent monomer of the second sequence. The film-forming polymer may also be in the form of a dispersion of particles, preferably solid, of an ethylene polymer grafted into a liquid fatty phase. Such a dispersion is particularly described in the international patent application filed as PCT / FR / 03/03709, the contents of which are incorporated by reference. Advantageously, the grafted ethylenic polymer comprises an ethylenic skeleton insoluble in said liquid fatty phase, and side chains covalently bonded to said backbone and soluble in said dispersion medium. The film-forming polymer may be a polyamide polymer or copolymer selected from polyamide homopolymers, polyamides branched by fatty chains, polyamide-polyester copolymers, polyamide-polyacrylic copolymers, and mixtures thereof. The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a stable dispersion of essentially spherical particles of one or more polymers in a physiologically acceptable liquid fatty phase.

  The dispersion may in particular be in the form of polymer nanoparticles in stable dispersion in said liquid fatty phase. The nanoparticles are preferably of average size between 5 and 800 nm, and more preferably between 50 and 500 nm. However, it is possible to obtain polymer particle sizes of up to 1 m.

  Preferably, the dispersed polymer particles are insoluble in water-soluble alcohols such as, for example, ethanol.

  The dispersion polymers that can be used in the composition of the invention preferably have a molecular weight of the order of 2,000 to 10,000,000 g / mol, and a Tg of from -100 ° C. to 300 ° C. and better still from -50 to 100. C, preferably from -10 C to 50 C.

  Radical polymer is understood to mean a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers, in particular ethylenic monomers, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates). The radical polymers may be, in particular, vinyl polymers, or copolymers, in particular acrylic polymers.

  The acrylic polymers may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and / or esters of these acidic monomers and / or amides of these acids.

  As monomers carrying an acid group, α, β-ethylenic unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid can be used. preferably (meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid, and more preferably (meth) acrylic acid.

  The acidic monomer esters are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called (meth) acrylates), such as alkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 1 -C 20 alkyl, preferably C 1 -C 8, aryl (especially) C 6 -C 10 aryl (meth) acrylates, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, especially C 2 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl. As alkyl (meth) acrylates, there may be mentioned methyl (meth) acrylate, ethyl, butyl, isobutyl, 2-ethylhexyl and lauryl. Hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates that may be mentioned include hydroxyethyl (meth) acrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl (meth) acrylate. Aryl (meth) acrylates include benzyl or phenyl acrylate.

  Particularly preferred (meth) acrylic acid esters are alkyl (meth) acrylates.

  As the radical polymer, the copolymers of (meth) acrylic acid and alkyl (meth) acrylate, especially of C1-C4 alkyl, are preferably used. More preferentially, it is possible to use methyl acrylates optionally copolymerized with acrylic acid. As amides of the acidic monomers, mention may be made of (meth) acrylamides, and especially N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular C 2 -C 12 alkyl such as N-ethyl acrylamide, Nt-butyl acrylamide, N-octyl acrylamide; N-dialkyl (C1-C4) (meth) acrylamides.

  The acrylic polymers can also result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one amine group, in free form or partially or totally neutralized, or even partially or totally quaternized. Such monomers may be, for example, dimethylaminoethyl (meth) acrylate, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylamide, vinylamine, vinylpyridine or diallyldimethylammonium chloride.

  According to one embodiment, the polymer in dispersion is an acrylic copolymer obtained by copolymerization of meth (acrylic acid) and a meth (acrylic acid) ester, preferably in a ratio of between 5/95 and 20 / 80.

  According to one embodiment, the dispersed polymer particles are stabilized at the surface by a solid stabilizer at room temperature. In this case, the amount of dry matter of the dispersion represents the total amount of polymer and stabilizer, knowing that the amount of polymer can not be less than 5%.

  The polymer particles are preferably surface stabilized by a stabilizer, which may be a block polymer, a graft polymer, and / or a random polymer, alone or in admixture. The stabilization can be carried out by any known means, and in particular by direct addition of the stabilizing polymer during the polymerization.

  2-30% by weight of stabilizer can be used in relation to the initial mixture of monomers, and preferably 5-20% by weight.

  As stabilizing agent, mention may also be made of those comprising at least one block resulting from the polymerization of at least one ethylenic monomer, with one or more optionally conjugated ethylenic bonds, such as ethylene or dienes such as butadiene and isoprene, and at least one block of a vinyl polymer and better styrenic. When the ethylenic monomer has several optionally conjugated ethylenic bonds, the residual ethylenic unsaturations after the polymerization are generally hydrogenated. Thus, in known manner, the polymerization of isoprene leads, after hydrogenation, to the formation of ethylene-propylene block, and the polymerization of butadiene leads, after hydrogenation, to the formation of ethylene-butylene block. Among these polymers, mention may be made of block copolymers, in particular of the "diblock" or "triblock" type of the polystyrene / polyisoprene (SI), polystyrene / polybutadiene (SB) type such as those sold under the name "LUVITOL HSB" by BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) (SEP) type such as those sold under the name 'Kraton' by Shell Chemical Co or else from the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) (SEB) type. In particular, Kraton G1650 (SEBS), Kraton G1651 (SEBS), Kraton G1652 (SEBS), Kraton G1657X (SEBS), Kraton G1701X (SEP), Kraton G1702X (SEP), Kraton can be used. G1726X (SEB), Kraton D-1101 (SBS), Kraton D-1102 (SBS), Kraton D-1107 (SIS). The polymers are generally called copolymers of hydrogenated dienes or not.

  Diblock polymers are preferably used as the stabilizing agent.

  The film-forming polymer may be chosen from hybrid hydrocarbon and silicone polymers such as silicone polyamides. As polymer usable in the invention, there may be mentioned polyamides comprising at least one polyorganosiloxane group, consisting of 1 to 1000 organosiloxane units in the main chain or in the form of graft. The polymers are for example those described in US-A-5,874,069, US-A-5,919,444, US-A-6,051,216 US-A-5,981,680 and WO 04/054524, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. The silicone polyamide may be a polymer comprising at least one unit of formula (IV) or (V): ## STR1 ## where R4, R5, R6 and R7, which may be identical or different, represent a group chosen from: linear or branched or cyclic hydrocarbon groups, in C 1 to C 40, saturated or unsaturated, which may contain in their chain one or more carbon atoms; oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen, and may be substituted in part or totally by fluorine atoms; C 6 -C 10 aryl groups, optionally substituted with one or more C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups; the polyorganosiloxane chains which may or may not contain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, X, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C 1 to C 8 alkylene di-yl group which may contain in its chain one or more oxygen and / or nitrogen atoms, Y is a divalent alkylenic group C 1 -C 5 linear or branched, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene, saturated or unsaturated, which may contain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and / or may be substituted by one or more the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxy, C 3 -C 8 cycloalkyl, C 1 -C 40 alkyl, C 5 -C 10 aryl, phenyl optionally substituted by 1 to 3 C 1 to C 3 alkyl groups, C 1 to C 3 hydroxyalkyl C3 and C1-C6 alkyl, where n is an integer from 2 to 500, preferably from 2 to 150, and m is an integer from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and more preferably from 6 to 200.

  The film-forming polymer may be chosen from polymers having a silicone skeleton and acrylic grafts or having an acrylic backbone and silicone grafts such as the product sold under the name SA 70.5 by 3M and described in US Pat. No. 5,725,882. US 5,209,924, US 4,972,037, US 4,981,903, US 4,981,902, US 5,468,477, and US 5,219,560 and EP 0388,582.

  The film-forming polymer may represent, in dry matter, from 0.1 to 15% by weight of the first composition, preferably from 0.5 to 10% and better still from 1 to 5%.

  FATTY PHASE The first composition and the second composition contain independently of one another a fatty phase, which contains oils and possibly solid fats at 25 C.

  By "liquid fatty phase", in the sense of the application, is meant any nonaqueous liquid medium at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), composed of one or more fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature. also called oils. This fatty phase may contain volatile oils and / or non-volatile oils.

  According to one embodiment, the liquid fatty phase of the first composition contains at least one volatile oil.

  According to one embodiment, the hydrocarbon oil of the second composition is non-volatile.

  For the purposes of the specification, the term "oil" means any nonaqueous liquid medium at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

  The liquid fatty phase of the first or second composition can represent from 5% to 90% of the total weight of the composition and preferably from 20 to 85%. According to the invention, one or more volatile oils are advantageously used in the first composition. These oils may be hydrocarbon oils or silicone oils optionally comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups or at the end of the silicone chain. Volatile silicone oils which may be used in the invention include linear or cyclic silicones having a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 cSt and in particular having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups. having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and their mixtures.

  As the hydrocarbon-based volatile oil which can be used in the invention, isobutylene oils (also known as isoparaffins) of C 8 -C 16 are particularly preferred, such as isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of ISOPAR, PERMETHYL and in particular isododecane (PERMETHYL 99 A).

  The fat phase of the first composition may contain at least one non-volatile oil.

  Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may be used in the invention include: linear or branched hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, petroleum jelly and naphthalene oils, and hydrogenated polyisobutene; hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as squalene; liquid triglycerides of fatty acids of at least 10 carbon atoms; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formula R1 (CO) XOR2 in which R represents the residue of an acid comprising from 2 to 29 carbon atoms with x being 0 or 1 and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example tributyl acetyl citrate, oleyl erucate, 2-octyl dodecyl behenate, tri-iso-arachidyl citrate, stearoyl isocetyl or octyldodecanyl stearate, n-propyl acetate, tri-decyl tri-mellitate, dodecane di-oleate or di-iso-cetyl stearate, arachidyl propionate, dibutyl phthalate, propylene carbonate, octyldodecyl pentanoate; polyol esters such as vitamin F, sorbitan isostearate, glycerin triisostearate or diglycerine; - fluorinated oils; higher fatty alcohols (of 7 to 29 carbon atoms) such as stearyl alcohol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, octyl 2-dodecanol, decanol, dodecanol or octadecanol; oleic alcohol; higher fatty acids (7 to 29 carbon atoms) such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; fatty acid esters of 7 to 29 carbon atoms such as diisostearyl malate, isopropyl palmitate, diisopropyl adipate, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, shea butter oil, isopropyl myristate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononate of isononyl, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, myristate or 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, castor oil; esters of lanolic acid, lauric acid and stearic acid; - their mixtures.

  Non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention include polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) optionally comprising a C 3 -C 40 alkyl or alkoxy chain or a phenyl chain such as phenyltrimethicones or polyalkylmethylsiloxanes, optionally fluorinated, such as polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethylsiloxanes, or by functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes.

  The liquid fatty phase of the second composition contains at least one hydrocarbon oil. Said hydrocarbon oil is chosen from the hydrocarbon oils described above.

  Said hydrocarbon oil is predominant in the liquid fatty phase of the second composition. Preferably, said hydrocarbon oil is non-volatile. In particular, the weight percentage of the hydrocarbon oil is between 10 and 60% of the composition, especially between 15 and 50% by weight of the composition.

  The first composition or the second composition may comprise a wax and / or a paste, in particular when it is in the form of a stick.

  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty" is understood to mean a lipophilic fat compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, and comprising at a temperature of 23 ° C. a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. 20 2892931 lo

  The pasty compound is advantageously chosen from - lanolin and its derivatives - polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds - fluorinated or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds - vinyl polymers, in particular: • homopolymers of olefins • copolymers of olefins • homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes • linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C 8 -C 30 alkyl group • homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having C 8 alkyl groups -C30 homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl ethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups; liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 diols, preferably C2-C50 diols; their mixtures. The pasty compound is preferably 1 to 99%, more preferably 1 to 60%, more preferably 2 to 30% and most preferably 5 to 15% by weight of the composition.

  Among the waxes, there may be mentioned waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin, petrolatum, ozokerite, montan wax; beeswax, lanolin and its derivatives; Candelilla, Ouricury, Carnauba, Japan waxes, cocoa butter, cork fiber waxes or sugar cane waxes; 25 C solid hydrogenated oils, ozokerites, fatty esters and glycerides at 25 ° C; polyethylene waxes and waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis; hydrogenated oils that are solid at 25 ° C .; lanolins; concrete fatty esters at 25 ° C .; silicone waxes; fluorinated waxes; their mixtures.

  The first or second composition according to the invention may contain a pulverulent dyestuff chosen from pigments, pearlescent agents, flakes and their mixtures.

  The pigments may be white or colored, inorganic and / or organic, interferential or not. Among the inorganic pigments, titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow or red or chromium, manganese, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, organic pigments include carbon black, barium, strontium, calcium or aluminum organic lacquer pigments including those subject to certification by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) (example D & C or FD & C) and those exempt from FDA certification as lacquers containing carmine 45 cochineal.Pigments can represent from 0.1 to 50% active ingredient and especially 1 at 35% and better still from 2 to 25% of the total weight of the first or second composition.

  The pearlescent pigments may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica 50 coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with, in particular, ferric blue. or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may represent from 0 to 25% (in active ingredient 5) of the total weight of the composition and better still from 0.1 to 15% (if present). It is thus possible to use pigments with goniochromatic properties, and / or pigments with a metallic effect as described in the application filed for the number FR 0209246, the contents of which are incorporated by reference into the present application.

  According to one embodiment, the first composition contains less than 1% of pigments while the second composition contains at least 1% of pigment, preferably at least 5% of pigments, more preferably at least 10% by weight of pigments. pigments.

  Each composition of the product according to the invention may further contain any additive usually used in such compositions, such as thickeners of oil or aqueous phase (acrylic gelling agent), antioxidants, perfumes, preservatives (pentylene glycol) ,. In a particular embodiment of the invention, the compositions according to the invention can be prepared in a customary manner by those skilled in the art. They may be in the form of a cast product and for example in the form of a stick or stick, in the form of a flexible paste in a hot-water bottle, or in the form of a cup that can be used by direct contact or with a sponge. In particular, they constitute, together or separately, a cast foundation, blush or eyelid cast especially colored, lipstick, lip gloss, concealer product. They can also be each in the form of a soft paste or gel, more or less fluid cream. They can then constitute foundations or fluid or pasty lipsticks, lip glosses, sunscreens or skin coloring, eyeliners, body make-up products or present care properties and then present as a base or balm care of the lips.

  The second composition is in anhydrous form and as such contains less than 5% water, and even more preferably less than 1% water relative to the total weight of the first or second composition.

  Each first and second composition may have the appearance of a lotion, a cream, an ointment, a soft paste, an ointment, a solid cast or molded and in particular in stick or in cup, or compacted solid.

  Each composition may be packaged separately in the same packaging article, for example in a bi-compartmented pen, the base composition being delivered by one end of the pen and the composition of the top being delivered by the other end of the pen, each end being closed particularly tightly by a cap.

  Preferably, the composition which is applied in the first layer is in solid form, which allows a more practical application, a better stability in time and temperature of the composition and allows a precise tracing of the makeup, which is highly desirable in the case of a lipstick or an eyeliner.

  The product according to the invention can be advantageously used for the makeup of the skin and / or lips and / or integuments according to the nature of the ingredients used. In particular, the product of the invention may be in the form of a solid foundation, a lipstick stick or paste, a concealer, or an eye contour, eyeliner, mascara, eye shadow, nail polish, body make-up product or a skin coloring product. The product is in particular a lipstick.

  Advantageously, the top layer has care and / or gloss properties.

  The invention also relates to a lip product, a foundation, a tattoo, a blush or eyeshadow containing first and second compositions as described above.

  The compositions of the invention can be obtained by heating the various constituents to the melting temperature of the highest waxes, then pouring the molten mixture into a mold (cup or thimble). They can also be obtained by extrusion as described in application EP-A-0 667 146.

  The examples below are intended to illustrate, without limitation, the present invention.

  Quantities are given in percentages by mass. EXAMPLE: Lip makeup product Base as first composition. Ingredients% by weight N-ETHYL P-MENTHANE CARBOXAMIDE-3 0.05 DITERTIOBUTYL 4-HYDROXYTOLUENE 0.049545 MAGNESIUM SULFATE, 7 H2O 1 LANOLIN LIQUID WITHOUT PESTICIDE (1/3) 15.68925 STABILIZED (BHT 0.015%) OIL HYDROGENATED JOJOBA 3,43512 GLOSSY BLUE DI-SODIUM SALT FCF (Cl: 42090) 0.01 DI-SODIUM SALT OF TARTRAZINE (Cl: 19140) 0.01 METHYL P-HYDROXYBENZOATE 0.3 P-HYDROXYBENZOATE OF PROPYLLE 0, 1 DI-METHYLSILOXANE OXYETHYLENE (17 OE) AT 3,220,425 EXTREMITES METHOXY POLY METHYLCETYL DIMETHYLSILOXANE (MW: 900 4,82238 - VISCOSITY: 15-25 CST) MIXTURE OF POLY METHYLCETYL DIMETHYL 9 METHYLSILOXANE OXYETHYLENE, ISO-STEARATE POLYGLYCEROLE (4 MOLES) HEXYL LAURATE PHENYL TRIMETHYLSILOXY TRISILOXANE 4.82238 (VISCOSITY: 20 CST -PM: 372) POLY DIMETHYLSILOXANE (VISCOSITY: 350 CST) 0.2 PERFUME 0.5 ACRYLIC COPOLYMER IN DISPERSION IN ISODODECANE WITH STYRENE / ISOPRENE COPOLYMER ( MEXOMERE PAP manufactured by CHIMEX) POLYETHYLENE WAX (PM: 500) 0.9909 1,2-PENTANEDIOL 5 GLYCERINE OF ORIGIN VEGETAL WITH PALM 3 WATER DESIONIZED MICROBIOLOGICALLY 32 CLEAN ETHYL ALCOHOL 96 DEGREES NOT DENATURED 5 MODIFIED HECTORITY DISTEARYL DIMETHYL 0.8 AMMONIUM Total: 100 Second composition to be applied on the basis Ingredients% by weight LIQUID WAX OF JOJOBA 5.7 PROPYLENE CARBONATE 0, 05 SHEA BUTTER PROTECTED 3, 6 COPOLYMER VINYLPYRROLIDONE / HEXADECENE 2,4 POLYETHYLENE WAX (MW: 500) 6.6 DI-ISO-PROPYL DI-MERATE Qs 100 ESTERS OF VEGETABLE FATTY ACIDS, ISO-STEARIC, ADIPIC 6 , 1 GLYCERYLE MICA-TITANIUM OXIDE (70/30) (CI: 77019 + 77891) 2.2 CALCIUM SALT RED LITHOL B 2.5 ISOPARAFFIN (6-8 MOLES ISOBUTYLENE) HYDROGENATED 7.1 OXIDE BLACK IRON (Cl: 77499) 0.1 OXIDES IRON BROWN, YELLOW (75/25) (CI: 77491 + 77492) 1.9 MODIFIED HECTORITY DISTEARYL DIMETHYL AMMONIUM 0.5 DITERTIOBUTYL 4-HYDROXYTOLUENE 0.03 PERHYDROSQUALENE REFINED VEGETABLE 5 , 7 MIXTURE OF ISO-PROPYL P-HYDROXYBENZOATES, ISO-0.5 BUTYL, N-BUTYL (40/30/30) OZOKERITE (MELTING PT: 74-77) 4.9 POLY ISO-B UTENZ HYDROGEN 7.3 ALUMINUM LAYER OF DI-SODIUM SALT OF PHLOXIN B ON ALUMINUM, ALUMINUM BENZOATE (Cl: 45410: 2 + 77002) POLYGLYCERYL-2 DIISOSTEARATE 9.7 OCTYL-2 DODECANOL (QS) 6, 3 TOTAL 1005 On a panel of six women with clear, thick lips, the migration of the second composition evaluated one hour after application is significantly reduced. In addition, the brightness of the second composition alone is maintained just after application to the first composition, and one hour after application. 20

Claims (4)

  1. Cosmetic product, especially for makeup and / or care of keratin materials, containing a first and a second composition intended to be applied to the keratin materials one on the other. the first composition being in the form of an emulsion of an aqueous phase and of a fatty phase comprising at least one film-forming polymer chosen from hydrocarbon polymers and hybrid hydrocarbon and silicone polymers, the second composition being anhydrous and comprising a liquid fatty phase containing at least one hydrocarbon oil.   2. Product according to claim 1, characterized in that the film-forming polymer is chosen from hydrocarbon polymers such as acrylic polymers, polyurethanes, polyesters, polyamides, polyureas, cellulose polymers such as nitrocellulose, polymers and the like. polyamide copolymers.   3. Product according to claim 1, characterized in that the film-forming polymer is chosen from hybrid hydrocarbon and silicone polymers such as silicone acrylic polymers and silicone polyamides.   4. Product according to claim 2, characterized in that the film-forming polymer is chosen from acrylic polymers. 7. Product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the film-forming polymer represents in dry matter from 0.1 to 15% by weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 10% and better still from 1 to 5%. 8. Product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first composition is in the form of an oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil (W / O) emulsion, or multiple (W / O / E or polyol / H / E or H / E / H). 9. Product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first composition is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O). 10. Product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first composition comprises a surfactant selected from surfactants having an HLB of less than 7 and in particular esters of fatty acids and polyols such as mono -, di-, tri- or sesquioleates or stearates of sorbitol or glycerol, laurates of glycerol or polyethylene glycol; alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone copolyols having a pendant alkyl or alkoxy chain or a silicone backbone having, for example, from 6 to 22 carbon atoms. 11. Product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrocarbon oil is predominant in the liquid fatty phase of the second composition. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second composition contains less than 10% by weight of volatile oil (s). 13. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight percentage of the hydrocarbon oil is between 10 and 50% of the composition, especially between 15 and 40% by weight of the composition. 14. Product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrocarbon oil is selected from non-volatile hydrocarbon oils. 5015. Product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrocarbon oil is chosen from - linear or branched hydrocarbons such as paraffin oils, petroleum jelly and light naphthalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene; hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as squalene; liquid triglycerides of fatty acids of at least 10 carbon atoms; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formula R1 (CO) XOR2 in which R represents the residue of an acid comprising from 2 to 29 carbon atoms with x being 0 or 1 and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example tributyl acetyl citrate, oleyl erucate, 2-octyl dodecyl behenate, tri-iso-arachidyl citrate, stearoyl- isocetyl or octyldodecanyl stearate, n-propyl acetate, tri-decyl tri-mellitate, dodecane di-oleate or di-iso-cetyl stearate, arachidyl propionate, dibutyl phthalate propylene carbonate, octyldodecyl pentanoate; polyol esters such as vitamin F, sorbitan isostearate, glycerin triisostearate or diglycerine; - fluorinated oils; higher fatty alcohols (of 7 to 29 carbon atoms) such as stearyl alcohol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, octyl 2-dodecanol, decanol, dodecanol or octadecanol; oleic alcohol; higher fatty acids (7 to 29 carbon atoms) such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; fatty acid esters of 7 to 29 carbon atoms such as diisostearyl malate, isopropyl palmitate, diisopropyl adipate, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, shea butter oil, isopropyl myristate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononate d isononyl, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, myristate or 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, castor oil; the esters of lanolic acid, lauric acid and stearic acid; their mixtures. 16. Product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a foundation, a blush or eyeshadow, a lipstick, a product having care properties, an eyeliner, a concealer, or a body make-up product. 17. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first composition contains less than 1% of pigments while the second composition contains at least 1% of pigment, preferably at least 5% of pigments, preferably still at least 10% by weight of pigments. 18. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second composition is in the form of a stick lipstick or a liquid gloss. 19. A process for making up the skin, the lips or the integuments of applying to the skin and / or the lips and / or the integuments, successively the first and second compositions of a cosmetic makeup product according to one of the claims. 1 to 18. 20. Use of a composition in the form of an emulsion of an aqueous phase and of a fatty phase comprising at least one film-forming polymer chosen from hydrocarbon polymers and hybrid hydrocarbon and silicone polymers, to reduce lamigration of an anhydrous composition comprising a liquid fatty phase containing at least one hydrocarbon oil.