FR3045325A1 - MAKE-UP KIT COMPRISING AT LEAST TWO COMPOSITIONS - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a makeup kit comprising at least: a first composition dedicated to being applied to the skin comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least hydrophobic silica airgel particles; a second composition intended to be applied to all or part of a deposit of said first composition, said second composition being a coloring makeup composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium. The present invention furthermore relates to a cosmetic process for making up the skin, a method for facilitating the application of a coloring makeup composition and / or for improving the makeup result as well as the use of said first composition to facilitate the applying and / or improving the makeup result of said second coloring makeup composition.

Description

The present invention relates to a skin makeup kit comprising a makeup composition having improved holding properties, especially of color, in time and in extreme weather conditions and whose application to the areas to be made up is facilitated. The present invention further relates to a cosmetic process for making up the skin.

This makeup kit is particularly suitable for people whose skin is subjected to extreme moisture conditions, as is the case in particular in Latin American and Asian countries, and / or high temperature conditions such as encountered in the countries of Southern Europe and the Maghreb.

Cosmetic compositions, such as, for example, foundations, are commonly used to bring a color and an aesthetic effect to the skin, especially to the face. These makeup products generally contain oils, pigments, fillers and possibly additives such as cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients. One of the expectations of the consumer concerns the appearance of the makeup effect over time. It must not require retouching on the whole of a day. More specifically, once applied to the skin, it must have good color fastness, homogeneity, uniformity while advantageously providing additional effects such as a non-sticky effect, an anti-stria effect, radiance, a non-migration effect and / or a smoothing effect of the skin.

It is known that certain polymers can reinforce this behavior during the day. These polymers are of a very different chemical nature and are carried either in a fatty phase or in an aqueous phase (for example, silicone resins, polyacrylates, latices, etc.). But if these polymers actually provide holding properties, especially not transfer, they do not always ensure a color of the entire day.

This issue of resistance is even more important when external conditions are extreme in temperature or humidity. Makeup must then be very resistant and the use of polymers alone is not sufficient.

There is therefore still a need for cosmetic makeup compositions of the skin having a hold, in particular color, resistant in time and / or in hot and / or humid atmospheric conditions while providing homogeneity, runiformity , a non-sticky effect, an anti-streak effect, shine, a non-migration effect, dullness, the color intensity of the makeup, the coverage, a blooming effect to hide the imperfections of the skin and / or a smoothing effect of the skin.

Unexpectedly, the inventors have found that the application to the skin of a first composition comprising hydrophobic silica airgel particles prior to the application of a second coloring makeup composition makes it possible to meet this need. The invention thus relates, according to a first aspect, to a make-up kit, comprising at least: a first composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, dedicated to being applied to the skin of the face and / or the body, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least hydrophobic silica airgel particles, a second composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, intended to be applied to all or part of a deposit of said first composition, said second composition being a dyestuff makeup composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium said first composition being distinct from said second composition, and said first and second compositions being packaged separately in one and the same packaging article or in two separate or separate packaging articles. In general, the kit is composed of at least two separate containers, one containing a first composition and the other a second composition. The compositions may be packaged separately or together in the same packaging article or in two (or more) separate or separate packaging articles.

As demonstrated in the experimental part, the application on the skin of a first composition, comprising at least hydrophobic silica airgel particles, prior to the application of a makeup composition usually used makes it possible to improve the result. makeup over time and / or in extreme climatic conditions (heat / humidity), especially in terms of color fastness, uniformity, homogeneity, non-sticky effect, smoothing properties, anti-aging properties, streaks, attenuation of migration, brightness, absence of "linting" phenomenon, anti-gloss zone, lack of cracking of makeup.

Another advantage related to the prior application to the skin of the first composition is that it also facilitates the application of the second coloring makeup composition in that it already forms a film on the surface of the skin which can thus level the skin and provide slippery properties.

It turns out that the first composition of the kit according to the invention has excellent compatibility with a wide variety of makeup products. In other words, it can be considered as a universal composition dedicated to be applied not only to any type of skin but also applicable prior to the application of any type of makeup product. According to another aspect, the invention relates to a cosmetic process for makeup of the skin of the face and / or the body, comprising at least the steps of: applying to the skin of the face and / or of the body a layer of a first composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least hydrophobic silica airgel particles, as defined below, and applying all or part of the deposit made with the first composition to at least one layer a second coloring makeup composition as defined below, said second coloring makeup composition being distinct from the first composition, said first and second compositions being packaged separately in one and the same packaging article or in two separate packaging articles or distinct. According to another aspect, the invention relates to a method for facilitating the application of a coloring makeup composition as defined below and / or for improving the makeup result over time and / or in extreme climatic conditions. a dyeing makeup composition as defined below, comprising the application to the skin of the face and / or the body, prior to the application of said dye makeup composition, of a deposit on the skin to be made up of a composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least hydrophobic silica airgel particles as defined below.

More particularly, the makeup result is improved at least on one of the following aspects: color retention over time and / or in extreme climatic conditions, and / or homogeneity, and / or uniformity, and / or no effect. stickiness, and / or anti-streaking effect, and / or brightness, and / or non-migration, and / or smoothing of the skin, and / or absence of linting phenomenon and / or anti-gloss zone effect, and / or absence cracking of the makeup, and / or attenuation of the visibility of the sebum, and / or skin sharper. The order of application to the skin of the first and second compositions of the kit according to the invention is, of course, essential for the present invention.

However, it is also possible to envisage a single first composition to be associated with several second compositions of different formulations, for example containing different oils and / or different additives. In particular, a single first composition can be associated with several second compositions of different colors or consistencies. Conversely, a single second composition may be associated with several different first compositions.

It can also be envisaged that at least one other composition, for example care or pretreatment of the skin of the face and / or of the body, distinct from the first and second compositions, is applied to the skin prior to the first composition suitable for use in the skin. 'invention.

By "skin" is thus meant in the sense of the invention, the skin of the face, including the lips, the eyelids, the contour of the lips and the eye contour, and / or the skin of the body, the skin being ""naked" (that is to say, not covered with any product) or skin that has been subjected to prior care and / or pretreatment via the application of at least one other composition before the application of a first composition suitable for the invention.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "dyed makeup composition" means a composition comprising at least one dyestuff as defined below. According to another aspect, the invention relates to the use of a first composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising at least hydrophobic silica airgel particles as defined below, to facilitate the application of a second composition. of coloring makeup as defined below and / or improving the makeup result of said second coloring makeup composition, the first composition being dedicated to being applied to the skin of the face and / or the body, the second make-up composition being distinct of the first composition and being applied to all or part of said first composition, said first and second compositions being packaged separately in one and the same packaging article or in two separate or separate packaging articles.

FIRST COMPOSITION

As explained above, a first composition of the makeup kit according to the invention comprises, in addition to a physiologically acceptable medium, at least hydrophobic silica airgel particles.

HYDROPHOBIC SILICA AEROGELS

Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

They are generally synthesized by sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then usually dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying avoids the contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various dryings are described in detail in Brinker CJ, and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990.

The hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (Sm) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 / g and better still from 600 to 800 m 2 / g. g, and a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 μm, better still from 1 to 1000 μm, preferably from 1 to 100 μm, in particular from 1 to 30 μm, more preferably 5 to 25 μm, more preferably 5 to 20 μm and more preferably 5 to 15 μm.

According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 μιη, preferably from 5 to 25 μm. better from 5 to 20 μm and even better from 5 to 15 μm.

The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called the BET method (BRUNAUER - EMMET - TELLER) described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D). The BET surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.

The silica airgel particle sizes can be measured by static light scattering using a MasterSizer 2000 commercial particle size analyzer from Malvem. The data is processed on the basis of Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" diameter of particles. This theory is particularly described in Van de Hulst, HC, "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface per unit mass (Sm) ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 / g and a size expressed as a mean diameter by volume (D [0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 μm and even more preferably from 5 to 15 μm.

The silica airgel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a packed density p ranging from 0.04 g / cm 3 to 0.10 g / cm 3, preferably from 0.05 g / cm 3 to 0.08 g / cm 3.

In the context of the present invention, this density can be evaluated according to the following protocol, referred to as packed density:

40 g of powder are poured into a graduated cylinder; then the specimen is placed on the STAV 2003 device from STAMPF VOLUMETER; the test piece is then subjected to a series of 2500 settlements (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); then the final volume Vf of compacted powder is measured directly on the test piece. The packed density is determined by the ratio m / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3 and m in g) ·

According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume Λ Λ Λ Λ Λ Λ (Sy) ranging from 5 to 60 m / cm, preferably from 10 to 50 m / cm and better from 15 to 40 m / cm.

The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relationship: Sy = Sm xp where p is the packed density expressed in g / cm 3 and Sm is the specific surface area per unit mass expressed in m2 / g, as defined above.

Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity measured with WET POINT ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and better still from 8 to 18 ml / g. at 12 ml / g.

The absorption capacity measured at WET POINT, and denoted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil that must be added to 100 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste.

It is measured according to the so-called WET POINT method or powder oil uptake determination method described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the WET POINT, described below:

An amount m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and then the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil in the powder, mixing is carried out with a spatula and oil is added until the formation of oil and powder conglomerates. From this moment, the oil is added one drop at a time and then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be spread on the glass plate without cracks or lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted.

The oil intake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m.

The aerogels used according to the present invention are aerogels of hydrophobic silica, preferably of silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate).

Hydrophobic silica is understood to mean any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, in order to functionalize the OH groups by Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

Concerning the preparation of hydrophobic silica airgel particles surface-modified by silylation, reference can be made to US Pat. No. 7,470,725.

In particular, silylated silica airgel particles will be used, and in particular hydrophobic silica airgel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups (trimethylsiloxylated silica). Examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that can be used in the invention include, for example, the airgel marketed under the name VM-2260 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size. about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

The aerogels marketed by Cabot under the references AEROGEL TLD 201, AEROGEL OGD 201, AEROGEL TLD 203, ENOVA® AEROGEL MT 1100 and ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1200 may also be mentioned.

The airgel marketed under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size ranging from 5 to 15 microns and a specific surface per unit mass ranging from from 600 to 800 m2 / g.

The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles may be present in the first composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better still 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 2% or even 0.5 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition.

THICKENING POLYMERS

The first composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one acrylic thickening polymer.

It is of course possible to use a mixture of acrylic thickening polymers.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "acrylic polymer" means a polymer resulting from a polymerization reaction employing one or more monomers of structure:

with R3 denoting a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical, and R4 denoting a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical, an NR5R6 radical or a C1-alkoxy radical; -C30 linear or branched, said radicals being optionally substituted by one or more OH and / or quaternary ammonium radical; R 5 and R denoting independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical, linear or branched, C1-C30 optionally oxyalkylenated, optionally comprising a sulfonic group.

Preferably R3 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "thickening polymer" means a polymer having a solution or dispersion of 1% by weight of active material in water or in ethanol, at 25 ° C., a viscosity greater than 0.2 Poise, at a shear rate of 1 s'1. The viscosity is measured with a HAAKE RS600 viscometer from THERMO ELECTRON. This viscometer is a constraint-constrained viscometer in plane cone geometry (for example with a diameter of 60 mm)

The acrylic thickening polymers that may be used in the present invention are chosen in particular from: (a) (meth) acrylic associative thickeners; (b) crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers; (c) crosslinked copolymers of (meth) acrylic acid and (C 1 -C 6) alkyl acrylate; (d) nonionic homopolymers and copolymers containing ethylenically unsaturated monomers of ester and / or amide type; (e) homopolymers of ammonium acrylate or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide; (f) homopolymers and copolymers of (meth) acrylamido (C1-C4) alkyl sulfonic acids (g) crosslinked methacryloyloxyalkyl (C1-C4) trialkyl (C1-C4) ammonium homopolymers and copolymers (a) By "associative thickener is meant according to the invention an amphiphilic thickener comprising both hydrophilic units and hydrophobic units, in particular comprising at least one C8-C30 fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit.

The associative (meth) acrylic thickening polymers according to the invention may be nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric.

Preferably, the nonionic associative thickening polymers according to the invention are chosen from: copolymers of methacrylates or of C 1 -C 6 alkyl acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain (for example acrylates); alkyl (C 8 -C 22) oxyethylenated), such as, for example, the methyl methacrylate / oxyethylenated stearyl acrylate copolymer sold by GOLDSCHMIDT under the name ANTIL® 208; and copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain (for example (C 8 -C 22) alkyl (meth) acrylates) such as, for example, polyethylene glycol methacrylate / methacrylate copolymer; lauryl.

The anionic associative thickening polymers according to the invention may be chosen from those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit of the (C 10 -C 30) alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid type. They are preferably chosen from those whose hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type corresponds to the following monomer of formula (I):

(I) in which R1 denotes H or CH3 or C2H5, that is to say, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or ethacrylic acid units and whose hydrophobic unit of carboxylic acid alkyl (C10-C30) ester type unsaturated corresponds to the following monomer of formula (II):

(II) wherein R1 is H or CH3 or C2H5 (i.e., acrylate, methacrylate or ethacrylate units), preferably H or CH3; and R2 denotes a C10-C30 alkyl radical, preferably a C12-C22 alkyl radical.

The (C 10 -C 30) alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids according to the invention comprise, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and the like. dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.

Such anionic amphiphilic polymers are for example described in US Pat. Nos. 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.

The anionic amphiphilic polymers that may be used in the context of the present invention may more particularly denote polymers formed from a monomer mixture comprising: (i) either acrylic acid and one or more esters of formula (III) below:

(III) wherein R1 is H or CH3; and R2 denotes an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and optionally a crosslinking agent, such as for example those consisting of 60 to 95% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4 to 40% by weight of alkyl acrylate C10-C30 (hydrophobic unit), and 0 to 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or those consisting of 96 to 98% by weight of acrylic acid, 1 to 4% by weight of acrylate of C10-C30 alkyls and 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer,

(ii) essentially acrylic acid and lauryl methacrylate, such as that formed from 66% by weight of acrylic acid and 34% by weight of lauryl methacrylate.

Said crosslinking agent is a monomer containing a group with at least one other polymerizable group whose unsaturated bonds are unconjugated with respect to each other. In particular, polyallyl ethers such as polyallylsucrose and polyallylpentaerythritol may be mentioned.

Among said polymers above, the products sold by the company Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen® TRI, Pemulen® TR2 and Carbopol® 1382, and even more preferentially Pemulen® Tri, and the product sold by the company, are particularly preferred. SEPC under the name COATEX® SX.

As fatty-channel anionic amphiphilic polymers, mention may also be made of the methacrylic acid / methyl acrylate / dimethylmaisopropenylbenzylisocyanate copolymer of ethoxylated alcohol, especially sold under the name VISCOPHOBE® DB 1000 by the company Amerchol.

As fatty-channel anionic amphiphilic polymers, mention may also be made of those comprising at least one acrylic monomer containing sulphonic group (s), in free form or partially or totally neutralized and comprising at least one hydrophobic part.

The hydrophobic part present in the polymers of the invention preferably comprises from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferentially from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the sulphonic polymers according to the invention are partially or completely neutralized with a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di- or tri-ethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N methyl glucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds.

The amphiphilic sulfonic polymers according to the invention generally have a number-average molecular weight (Mn) ranging from 1000 to 20,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 20,000 to 5,000,000, and preferably from 100,000 to 1,500. 000 g / mole.

The amphiphilic sulfonic polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. Preferably, crosslinked amphiphilic polymers are chosen.

When they are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the olefinic polyunsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking the polymers obtained by radical polymerization. Examples that may be mentioned include divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, diacrylated di (meth) acrylate of ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallylcyanurate, diallylmaleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetra-allyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane-diallylether, (meth) acrylate allyl ethers, the allyl ethers of alcohols of the series of sugars, or other allyl- or vinyl-ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and the allylic esters of the phosphoric and / or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives, or the mixtures of these compounds.

Methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA) will be used more particularly. The degree of crosslinking generally varies from 0.01 to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.

The acrylic monomers containing sulphonic group (s) are chosen especially from (meth) acrylamido (C 1 -C 22) alkylsulphonic acids, N- (C 1 -C 22) alkyl (meth) acrylamido (C 1 -C 22) alkylsulphonic acids such as undecyl-acrylamido-methanesulfonic acid and their partially or totally neutralized forms.

More preferably, (meth) acrylamido (C 1 -C 22) alkylsulfonic acids such as, for example, acrylamido-methanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulphonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentane sulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-dodecyl-sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid and their partially or completely neutralized forms.

More particularly, use 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and its partially or completely neutralized forms.

The amphiphilic polymers according to the invention may especially be chosen from AMPS random amphiphilic polymers modified by reaction with a n-monoalkylamine or a C6-C22 di-n-alkylamine, and such as those described in the patent application. WO00 / 31154 (forming an integral part of the content of the description). These polymers may also contain other hydrophilic ethylenically unsaturated monomers chosen, for example, from (meth) acrylic acids, their β-substituted alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono or polyalkylene glycols, (meth) acrylamides. vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.

The preferred polymers of the invention are chosen from AMPS amphiphilic copolymers and at least one hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one hydrophobic part having from 8 to 50 carbon atoms and more preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. carbon and more preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

These same copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not containing a fatty chain, such as (meth) acrylic acids, their β-substituted alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth) acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures thereof.

These copolymers are described in particular in patent application EP-A-750899, patent US 5089578 and in the following Yotaro Morishima publications: "Self-assembling amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures -

Chinese Journal of Polymer Science Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336. "- Miscellanous formation of random copolymers of sodium 2- (acrylamido) -2-methylpropanesulfonate and a non-ionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering - Macromolecules 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10 - 3694-3704 "; - "Solution properties of miscelle networks formed by non-ionic moieties covalently bound to a polyelectrolyte: knows effects on rheological behavior - Langmuir, 2000, Vol. 16, No. 12, 5324-5332; Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2- (acrylamido) -2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers - Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem. 1999, 40 (2), 220-221.

The hydrophobic monomers with ethylenic unsaturation of these particular copolymers are preferably chosen from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula (IV) below:

(IV) wherein R 1 and R 3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical (preferably methyl); Y is O or NH; R2 denotes a hydrocarbon radical containing at least 8 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably 6 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms x denotes a number of moles of alkylene oxide and ranges from 0 to 100.

The radical R2 is preferably chosen from linear (e.g. n-hexyl, n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl), branched or cyclic (e.g. cyclododecane (C12) alkyl radicals. or adamantane (C10)); the perfluorinated alkyl radicals in CrrCix (for example the group of formula - (CH2) 2- (CF2) 9-CF3); the cholesteryl radical (C27) or a cholesteryl ester residue such as the cholesteryl oxyhexanoate group; polycyclic aromatic groups such as naphthalene or pyrene. Among these radicals, linear alkyl radicals, and more particularly the n-dodecyl radical, are more particularly preferred.

According to a particularly preferred form of the invention, the monomer of formula (IV) comprises at least one alkylene oxide unit (x> 1) and preferably a polyoxyalkylene chain. The polyoxyalkylene chain is preferably composed of ethylene oxide units and / or propylene oxide units and even more particularly ethylene oxide units. The number of oxyalkylenated units generally varies from 3 to 100, preferably from 3 to 50 and even more preferably from 7 to 25.

Among these polymers, mention may be made of: - crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers, neutralized or not, comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS units and from 40 to 85% by weight of (C 8 -C 16) alkyl (meth) units acrylamide or (C 8 -C 16) alkyl (meth) acrylate units with respect to the polymer, such as those described in application EP-A-750 899; terpolymers comprising from 10 to 90% by mole of acrylamide units, from 0.1 to 10% by mole of AMPS units and from 5 to 80% by mole of n- (C 6 -C 18) alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in US Patent 5,089,578.

Mention may also be made of copolymers of completely neutralized AMPS and of dodecyl methacrylate as well as copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide which are not crosslinked and crosslinked, such as those described in the Morishima articles cited above.

More particularly, copolymers consisting of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) units of formula (V) below:

(V) wherein X + is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth cation or the ammonium ion, and units of the following formula (VI):

(VI) wherein x denotes an integer ranging from 3 to 100, preferably from 5 to 80 and preferably from 7 to 25; R 1 has the same meaning as that indicated above in formula (IV) and R 4 denotes a linear or branched C 6 -C 22 and preferably C 10 -C 22 alkyl.

Particularly preferred polymers are those wherein x = 25, R 1 is methyl and R 4 is n-dodecyl; they are described in the articles of Morishima mentioned above. The polymers for which X + denotes sodium or ammonium are more particularly preferred.

The cationic associative thickening polymers according to the present invention may be chosen from polyacrylates containing amine side groups.

The polyacrylates with amino side groups, whether quaternized or not, have, for example, hydrophobic groups of the steareth-20 (polyoxyethylenea (20)) or (C 10 -C 20) alkyl PEG-20 itaconate type.

Examples of aminated side chain polyacrylates include the polymers 8781-124B® or 9492-103® or STRUCTURE PLUS® from the company National Starch.

The amphoteric associative thickening polymers covenant to the invention may be chosen from methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride / acrylic acid / C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate copolymers, the alkyl radical being preferably a stearyl radical. (b) Among the crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers, mention may be made in particular of the products sold under the trade names CARBOPOLS® 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by the company GOODRICH or the products sold under the names SYNTHALEN® M and SYNTHALEN K by the company 3 VSA. (c) Among the crosslinked copolymers of (meth) acrylic acid and of C 1 -C 6 alkyl acrylate, mention may be made in particular of the product sold under the name VISCOATEX® 538C by the company COATEX which is a crosslinked copolymer of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate in aqueous dispersion at 38% of Active Matter or the product sold under the name ACULYN® 33 by the company ROHM & HAAS which is a crosslinked copolymer of acrylic acid and ethyl acrylate in an aqueous dispersion containing 28% of Active Matter. Mention may be made more particularly of the methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate copolymer crosslinked in the form of a 30% aqueous dispersion manufactured and sold under the name CARBOPOL® AQUA SF-1 by the company NOVEON. (d) Among the nonionic homopolymers or copolymers containing ethylenically unsaturated monomers of ester and / or amide type, mention may be made in particular of the products sold under the names CYAN AMER® P250 by CYTEC (polyacrylamide); PMMA MBX-8C® by the company US COSMETICS (methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer); ACRYLOID® B66 by RHOM & HAAS (butyl methacrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymer); BP A® 500 by the company KOBO (polymethylmethacrylate). (e) Among the homopolymers of ammonium acrylate, mention may be made in particular of the product sold under the name MICROSAP® PAS 5193 by the company HOECHST. Among the copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide, mention may be made of the product sold under the name BOZEPOL C NOUVEAU® or the PAS® 5193 product sold by HOECHST (they are described in documents FR2416723, US2,798,053 and US2,923,692). (f) Homo- or co-polymers of (meth) acrylamido-(1-4C) alkylsulfonic acids are preferably crosslinked. More particularly, they are partially or completely neutralized. These are water-soluble or water-swellable polymers.

Among these polymers, mention may in particular be made of: polyacrylamido-methanesulfonic acid, polyacrylamidoethane-sulfonic acid, polyacrylamido-propanesulfonic acid, poly-2-acrylamido-2-acid methyl-propane-sulfonic acid, poly-2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, poly-2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid.

Polymers of this type and in particular crosslinked and partially or completely neutralized poly-2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acids are known, described and prepared in the patent application DE19625810.

They are generally characterized in that they comprise, randomly distributed: a) from 90 to 99.9% by weight of units of formula (I) below:

(I) wherein X * denotes a cation or a mixture of cations, of which H +, b) from 0.01 to 10% by weight of at least one crosslinking unit having at least two olefinic double bonds, the proportions by weight being defined with respect to the total weight of the polymer; X4 represents a cation or a mixture of cations chosen in particular from a proton, an alkali metal cation, a cation equivalent to that of an alkaline earth metal or the ammonium ion.

Preferably, the cross-linked and neutralized poly-2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid comprises from 98 to 99.5% by weight of units of formula (I) and from 0.5 to 2% by weight of crosslinking units. .

The crosslinking units having at least two olefinic double bonds are chosen for example from dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ether, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, tetra-allyl oxyethane or other allyl or vinyl ethers of polyhydric alcohols, tetraethylene glycol diacrylate, triallylamine, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, methylenebisacrylamide or divinylbenzene.

The crosslinking units having at least two olefinic double bonds are more particularly chosen from those corresponding to the following general formula (II):

(II) wherein R 1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl and more particularly methyl (trimethylol propane triacrylate).

The cross-linked and partially or completely neutralized poly-2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acids are generally known under the names "Ammonium Polycrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate" or "Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide" (INCI designation).

A particularly preferred product according to the invention is that sold by the company CLARIANT under the trade name HOSTACERIN AMPS; it is a poly-2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid crosslinked and partially neutralized with ammonia. (g) Among the crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C1-C4) trialkyl (C1-C4) ammonium salts, mention may be made of the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized by methyl chloride, the homo or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene-bis-acrylamide. It is more particularly possible to use a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is sold in particular under the name SALCARE® SC 92 by the company CIBA. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names SALCARE® SC 95 and SALCARE® SC 96 by CIBA.

Preferably, the acrylic thickening polymer or polymers are chosen from crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid.

The first composition according to the invention comprises the acrylic thickening polymer or polymers in an amount preferably of between 0.01 and 5% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 2% by weight or even 0.2 to 1% by weight, by weight. relative to the total weight of the first composition.

SECOND COLORING MAKE-UP COMPOSITION

As stated above, a second dye makeup composition suitable for the invention is distinct from the first composition as defined above.

Thus, according to a preferred embodiment, the second composition of the kit according to the invention is devoid of (or free from) hydrophobic silica airgel particles.

The second composition that is suitable for the invention, namely a dyestuff makeup composition, may be any type of make-up composition known to a person skilled in the art, which comprises, in addition to a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one dyestuff.

The dyestuff is especially chosen from organic or inorganic dyestuffs, in particular of the type of pigment or nacre conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, liposoluble or water-soluble dyes, materials with specific optical effect and mixtures thereof.

The term "pigments" is intended to mean white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting film.

The pigments may be present in a proportion of from 0.01% to 30% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 25% by weight, and in particular from 0.2% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition . As inorganic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and the like. chromium hydrate. It may also be a pigment having a structure which may for example be sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica. Such a pigment is marketed for example under the reference COVERLEAF® NS or JS by CHEMICALS AND CATALYSTS and has a contrast ratio of about 30. The dyestuff may also comprise a pigment having a structure which may be for example microspheres type of silica containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is that marketed by MIYOSHI under the reference PC BALL PC-LL-100P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide. Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, D type pigments & C, lacquers based on carmine cochineal, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or the diketo pyrrolopyrrole (DPP) described in EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO -A- 96/08537.

By "nacres", it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with a dye. organic and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs.

Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.

Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of TIMICA®, FLAMENCO® and DUOCHROME® (based on mica) marketed by ENGELHARD, TIMIRON® nacres marketed by MERCK, nacres based on mica PRESTIGE ® marketed by ECKART and nacres based on SUNSHINE® synthetic mica marketed by SUN CHEMICAL. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection. As an illustration of the nacres that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may especially be made of gold-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Brillant® gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne) , Sparkle gold® (Timica), Gold® 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch® gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the names Bronze Fine® (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze® (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze® (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Orange® 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange® MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK under the name Passion orange® (Colorona) and Matte orange® (17449) (Microna) ; the nacres of brown hue sold especially by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique® copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown® CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper glint sold by ENGELHARD under the name Copper® 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint sold especially by the company Merck under the name Sienna fine® (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by Engelhard under the name Yellow® (4502) (Chromalite); nacres of red hue with gold glare sold by the company ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone® G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Tan opale® G005 (Gemtone); black nacres with a gold glint sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Nu antique bronze® 240 AB (Timica), blue nacres sold especially by MERCK under the name Matte® blue (17433) (Microna), white nacres with silvery reflection sold especially by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver® and the golden-green pinkish orange nacres sold especially by Merck under the name Indian Summer® (Xirona) and their mixtures.

By "dyes", it is necessary to include generally organic compounds that are soluble in fatty substances such as oils or in a hydroalcoholic phase. The second composition of the kit according to the invention may also comprise water-soluble or liposoluble dyes. Liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC orange 5, quinoline yellow. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect. This effect is different from a simple effect of conventional hue, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional dyestuffs such as monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of effect of color variability with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature. For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic sheen, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, as well as fibers, in particular interferential fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect.

Preferably, the amount of dyestuff (s) in a second coloring makeup composition of the kit according to the invention is between 0.0f% and 40% by weight, preferably between f% and 30% by weight. weight, more preferably between 5% and 25% by weight, relative total of the second composition.

Of course, a second dyestuff makeup composition that is suitable for the invention may furthermore comprise all the active agents and all the additives usually used in the cosmetics field, known to those skilled in the art. A non-exhaustive list is given below.

PHYSIOLOGICALLY ACCEPTABLE MTT JETT In general, the first and second compositions of the kit according to the invention being intended for topical application to the skin, they comprise, as a support, a physiologically acceptable medium.

By "the first and the second compositions" or "the compositions according to the invention" or "the composition" or all similar formulas, is meant "the first and / or the second composition", the respective formulations of the first and second compositions being partly related to their joint use within the kit but also partly independent. Those skilled in the art are quite able to judge to what extent and for which aspects the compositions of the kit according to the invention are related.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium compatible with the skin.

Thus, the physiologically acceptable medium is in particular a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say without odor, color or unpleasant appearance, and which does not generate tingling, tightness or redness unacceptable to the user.

The cosmetically acceptable medium of the first and second compositions according to the invention may comprise a fatty phase, an aqueous phase, and / or additives.

AQUEOUS PHASE

The first and / or second composition (s) of the kit according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase as defined below.

The aqueous phase of the first and / or second composition (s) of the kit according to the invention comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

By "water-soluble solvent" is meant in the present invention a liquid compound at room temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C and atmospheric pressure).

The water-soluble solvents that can be used in the first and / or second composition (s) of the kit according to the invention may also be volatile.

Among the water-soluble solvents that can be used in the first and / or second composition (s) of the kit according to the invention, there may be mentioned lower monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol. glycols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, C3 and C4 ketones and C2-C4 aldehydes.

Preferably, the aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) may be present in the first composition in a content ranging from 5% to 95%, better still from 30% to 85% by weight, preferably from 40% to 80% by weight, based on the total weight of said first composition.

More particularly, the water may be present in the first composition in a content ranging from 5% to 95%, better still from 30% to 85% by weight, preferably from 40% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight. of said first composition.

Preferably, the aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible solvent) may be present in the second composition in a content ranging from 5% to 95%, better still from 30% to 85% by weight, preferably from 40% to 80% by weight, based on the total weight of said second composition.

More particularly, the water may be present in the second composition in a content ranging from 5% to 95%, better still from 30% to 85% by weight, preferably from 40% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight. of said second composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the second composition of the kit according to the invention comprises less than 3% by weight, or better still less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the second composition.

According to another particular embodiment, the second composition of the kit according to the invention is completely anhydrous. By anhydrous is meant in particular that the water is preferably not added deliberately in the compositions but may be present in trace amounts in the various compounds used in said composition.

According to another variant embodiment, the aqueous phase of the first and / or second composition (s) of the kit according to the invention may comprise at least one C2-C32 polyol

By "polyol" is meant for the purposes of the present invention, any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

Preferably, a polyol according to the present invention is present in liquid form at room temperature.

A polyol that is suitable for the invention may be a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl compound, saturated or unsaturated, bearing at least two -OH functions on the alkyl chain, in particular at least three -OH functions, and more particularly at minus four functions -OH.

The polyols which are advantageously suitable for the formulation of the first and / or second composition (s) of the kit according to the invention are those having in particular from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 3 to 16 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, the polyol may be, for example, chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol and glycerol. polyglycerols, such as oligomers of glycerol such as diglycerol, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said polyol is chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, glycerol, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment, the first and / or second composition (s) of the kit according to the invention may comprise at least butylene glycol.

According to another particular embodiment, the first and / or second composition (s) of the kit according to the invention may comprise at least glycerol.

Advantageously, when the pH is measurable, the first and / or second composition (s) of the kit according to the invention has a pH ranging from 3 to 9. Preferably, the pH of the first and / or second composition ( s) of the kit according to the invention ranges from 4 to 8.

FAT PHASE

The first and / or second composition (s) of the kit according to the invention may further comprise a fatty phase as defined below.

For the purposes of the invention, the fatty phase includes all liquid fatty substances, generally oils (also called liquid fatty phase or oily phase), or solid like waxes.

For the purposes of the invention, a liquid fatty phase comprises at least one oil.

The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature at atmospheric pressure.

An oily phase suitable for the preparation of the first and / or second composition (s) of the kit according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated or not, or mixtures thereof.

The oils may be volatile or non-volatile.

They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. According to one variant embodiment, the oils of plant origin are preferred.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acidic radicals.

By "volatile oil" is meant, within the meaning of the invention, any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 '). 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg); mm Hg).

Volatile oils

The volatile oils may be hydrocarbon or silicone.

Among the volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, mention may be made especially of the C 1 -C 6 branched alkanes, for example iso-alkanes (also known as isoparaffms) at C 8 -C 16, isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane. and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, in particular from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and is especially isohexadecane.

It is also possible to mention volatile linear groups comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (C12). and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (Ch) and of n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of the application WO 2008/155059 from Cognis, and mixtures thereof.

Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include linear silicone volatile oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, hexadecamethylheptasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

Cyclic silicone volatile oils that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.

Non-volatile oils

The non-volatile oils may, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated oils and / or non-volatile silicone oils.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made in particular of: - hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, - hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether, - esters of synthesis, such as the oils of formula R1COOR2, in which R1 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, a branched chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms with the proviso that R 1 + R 2 is> 10. The esters may be, in particular, chosen from alcohol and fatty acid esters, for example, cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, o hydroxystearate Ctyle, ricinoleates of alcohols or polyhydric alcohols, hexyl laurate, esters of neopentanoic acid, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid, such as isononanoate of isononyl, isotridecyl isononanoate, - polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate, - branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and the like. mixtures, non-phenyl silicone oils, for example caprylyl methycone, and phenyl silicone oils, for example phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones or phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyls. iloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone of viscosity less than or equal to 100 cSt, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; as well as the mixtures of these different oils.

Preferably, the first and / or second composition (s) of the kit according to the invention comprises volatile and / or nonvolatile silicone oils.

Preferably, the first composition of the kit according to the invention may comprise from 0.1% to 50% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 1% to 10% by weight of oil (s) relative to the total weight of said first composition.

Preferably, the second composition of the kit according to the invention may comprise from 0% to 99.9% by weight, better still from 1% to 75% by weight, preferably from 5% to 50% by weight of oil ( s) relative to the total weight of said second composition.

waxes

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic fat compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting temperature greater than 30 ° C. that can go up to 200 ° C, a hardness greater than 0.5 MPa, and having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to render it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixed.

The waxes that can be used in the invention are solid compounds at room temperature, intended to structure the composition, in particular in the form of a stick; they may be hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated and / or silicone-based and may be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin. In particular, they have a melting temperature of greater than 40 ° C. and better still greater than 45 ° C.

As waxes that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of those generally used in the cosmetics field: they are especially of natural origin, such as beeswax, Camauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricoury wax, Japan wax, fiber wax cork or sugar cane, rice, Montan, paraffin, lignite or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, hydrogenated oils such as jojoba oil; synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes resulting from the polymerization or copolymerization of ethylene and Fischer-Tropsch waxes or fatty acid esters such as octacosanyl stearate, glycerides concretes at 40 ° C and better at 45 ° C. ° C, silicone waxes such as alkyl- or alkoxydimethicones having an alkyl or alkoxy chain of 10 to 45 carbon atoms, esters of poly (di) methylsiloxane solid at 40 ° C whose ester chain comprises at least 10 atoms of carbon; and their mixtures.

Preferably, the first composition of the kit according to the invention may comprise from 0% to 50% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 25% by weight, preferably from 2% to 5% by weight of wax (s). ) relative to the total weight of said first composition.

Preferably, the second composition of the kit according to the invention may comprise from 0% to 99.9% by weight, better still from 0.5% to 50% by weight, preferably from 1% to 25% by weight of wax (s) relative to the total weight of said second composition.

In the case of emulsions, the proportion of fat phase will be chosen according to the direction of the emulsion.

Preferably, the fatty phase may thus be present in the first composition of the kit according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 50%, better still ranging from 0.5% to 25% and even better by 1%. at 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition.

Preferably, the fatty phase may thus be present in the second composition of the kit according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 99.9%, better still ranging from 1% to 75% and even more preferably 5%. at 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition.

Additives

The first and / or second composition (s) according to the invention may further comprise one or more additional agents chosen from antioxidants, preserving agents, thickening agents other than acrylic thickening polymers that are suitable for the invention, perfumes neutralizing agents, spreading agents, anti-foaming agents, dispersing agents, and stabilizing agents, especially chosen from surfactants and / or gelling agents, in particular hydrophilic agents, sequestering agents, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, emollients, silicones, fillers, propellants, alkalinizing or acidifying agents, film-forming polymers, sequestering agents or any other ingredient conventionally used in the cosmetic field and mixtures thereof.

Also, the first and / or second composition (s) according to the invention may further comprise at least one active agent chosen from moisturizing agents, UV-screening agents, healing agents, anti-oily agents, anti-aging agents and pollution, and / or the anti-aging agents of the skin.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional ingredients or compounds and / or their quantity, especially from those mentioned above, in view of the intended use but also in such a way that the advantageous properties of the first and / or second composition according to the invention are not or not substantially impaired by the addition envisaged.

For example, although the first composition that is suitable for the invention is not dedicated to providing a makeup effect, it may nevertheless comprise dyestuffs as defined above and in particular pigments and / or nacres in adjusted quantities so not to disturb the color effect to be brought by the second composition according to the invention.

The additives are generally present in the composition (first or second) according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

CONDITIONING AND GALENIC

Each composition of the kit according to the invention may be in any galenical form normally used for topical application and especially in the form of dispersions of the lotion or gel type, emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion. a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely (W / O), or suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or multiple emulsions (E / H / E or H / E / H), microemulsions, vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type, or wax / aqueous phase dispersions. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.

In addition, each composition of the kit according to the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, of a gel. They may optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the first composition of the kit according to the invention is a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, preferably O / W . The O / W emulsion also includes emulsified gels. Emulsified gels are understood to mean the dispersions of oils in an aqueous gel. The addition of surfactant is optional for this dosage form.

According to another particular embodiment, a first composition that is suitable for the invention is in the form of a serum.

The viscosity of the first composition of the kit according to the invention generally varies from 0.05 Pa.s to 20 Pa.s, preferably from 0.1 Pa.s to 5 Pa.s. This viscosity can be measured according to any method and apparatus known to those skilled in the art, and in particular using a Rhéomat RM100®.

A second composition of the kit according to the invention may be in the form of a cast product and for example in the form of a stick or stick, or in the form of a cup used for direct contact or sponge. In particular, it finds application as a cast foundation, blush or cast eyelid, lipstick, lip liner, eyeliner, base or lip care balm, concealer product, makeup product from the body. It may also be in the form of a soft paste or gel, cream more or less fluid, or liquid packaged in a tube. It can then consist of foundations, lipsticks, sun products or skin coloring. It can also be in the form of powder and make up complexion powders, compacted makeup powders for the complexion and for the eyes.

Preferably, the second coloring makeup composition of the kit according to the invention is a foundation, a complexion powder, an eyeliner, a lipstick, an eye shadow, an eyeshadow, a concealer product, a lip liner, and more preferably a foundation, an eyeshadow.

As explained above, a make-up kit according to the invention comprises at least two physiologically acceptable compositions, in particular cosmetics, packaged separately in one and the same packaging article or in two separate or separate packaging articles. Preferably, these compositions are packaged separately in two separate packaging articles.

These compositions may advantageously be accompanied by appropriate application means. The application means may be brushes, brushes, pens, pencils, felts, feathers, sponges, tubes and / or foam tips.

For example, each composition can be packaged separately in a bi-compartmented pen, the first composition being delivered by one end of the pen and the second composition being delivered by the other end of the pen, each end of the pen being closed, particularly in a sealed manner. by a hood.

Of course, the first and second compositions that are suitable for the invention can also be applied directly to the finger on the skin of the face and / or the body.

The first and / or second composition (s) may independently of one another be in solid or liquid form at room temperature.

According to a preferred embodiment, the first composition that is suitable for the invention is in liquid form at ambient temperature.

According to another preferred embodiment, the second composition suitable for the invention is in solid form at room temperature.

According to one embodiment, the first composition is fluid and applied using a foam tip, while the second composition is fluid and applied using a tube.

According to another embodiment, the first composition is a stick, while the second composition is fluid and applied using a tube.

According to another embodiment, the first composition is fluid and the second composition is in the form of a stick.

According to another embodiment, the two compositions are in the form of a stick.

Throughout the description, the phrase "having one" should be understood as being synonymous with "having at least one", unless the opposite is specified.

Expressions "between ... and ..." and "from ... to ..." must be understood as inclusive terms unless otherwise specified.

In the description and examples, percentages are percentages by weight. The ingredients are mixed in the order and under the conditions readily determined by those skilled in the art.

EXAMPLES

EXAMPLE 1 Preparation of first compositions that are suitable for the invention

Operating mode

The compositions are prepared according to a procedure which comprises the following 7 steps A to G: A: The ingredients concerned by this step are introduced and dispersed until complete solubilization; - B: The ingredients involved in this step are introduced and dispersed until the hydration of the gels is complete; - C: The ingredients concerned by this step are introduced; D: The ingredients concerned by this step are introduced and all the ingredients are dispersed until a homogeneous medium is obtained; - E: The ingredients concerned by this step are introduced; F: The ingredients concerned by this step are introduced and all the ingredients are dispersed until a homogeneous medium is obtained; - G: The ingredients involved in this step are introduced and all the ingredients are dispersed until a homogeneous medium.

Compositions C1 and C2 are obtained in the form of a serum.

The pH and the viscosity of each of the first compositions C1 and C2 are measured.

The pH of these first two compositions that are suitable for the invention is measured at 25 ° C. and has a value of between 5.3 and 6.

The viscosity of these first two compositions that are suitable for the invention is measured at 25 ° C. using a Rheomat RM100® apparatus and is 0.2 Pa.s at 0.6 Pa.s. EXAMPLE 2 Makeup Kit According to the Invention Comprising as Second Composition an Eyeshadow and Comparative

This makeup kit according to the invention comprises as a first composition the composition C1 prepared according to Example 1 in the form of a serum and as a second composition an eyeshadow having for reference a product marketed by the company L 'OREAL under the name Palette L'Oreal Paris 250 Absolute Taupe (the darkest brown shade of the palette).

An instrumental evaluation of this makeup kit is performed compared to the same eye shadow applied directly to the skin and more particularly to the eyelids (that is to say without prior application to the skin of the first composition Cl) with a method visual scoring for the following parameters: - Color retention after 6 hours; and - anti-streak effect after 6 hours.

Materials and methods

A Nikon D30 digital camera with cross polarizer filters that does not show shine is used.

The panel is made up of 21 light-skinned Caucasian-type volunteers between the ages of 20 and 45 years old with non-drooping, sufficiently large eyelids.

Initially, the eyelids are cleansed with the Lancôme Effacil product and a tissue paper and then left to dry for 5 minutes in the open air to have clean eyelids and especially devoid of any trace possible residual makeup.

In a second step, the composition Cl and the eyeshadow are applied to the upper eyelid of one of the two eyes. Meanwhile, eyeshadow alone (without prior application of the composition Cl on the skin) is directly applied to the upper eyelid of the other eye. These applications are carried out according to a randomization. The eyelids are allowed to air dry for 5 minutes. This marks the initial T time after makeup for which clichés are taken from the front and closed eyes via the aforementioned camera.

Then, in a third time, after a period of 6 hours, other shots are taken from the front and closed eyes via the aforementioned camera.

Finally, in a fourth and final time the eyelids are cleansed using the product Effacil Lancôme and a tissue paper. Results 1. Color retention

After 6 hours, the serum C1 tested under the eyeshadow Palette L'Oreal Paris 250 Absolute Taupe makes it possible to obtain a very good hold of the color insofar as the same color as after make-up (time T) is observed.

As for the same eye shadow tested without the application of the previous Cl serum, it loses color and has an average hold at 6 hours. 2. Anti-streak properties

After 6 hours, only the combination of Cl Serum and Eyeshadow Palette L'Oreal Paris 250 Absolute Taupe has anti-streaking properties. EXAMPLE 3 Makeup Kit According to the Invention Comprising as Second Composition an Eyeshadow or a Foundation and Comparative

This make-up kit according to the invention comprises, as a first composition, the composition C1 prepared according to Example 1 in the form of a serum and as a second composition, an eye shadow usually used by the women's panel detailed herein. -after a foundation usually used by this panel of women.

Protocol

A first panel is composed of 30 Caucasian women aged 18 to 54, with all types of skin.

A second panel is composed of 30 Asian-type women aged 18 to 54, with all types of skin.

All of these women are regular users of make-up products (at least foundations, lipsticks, eyeshadows).

The 60 foundation users use all types of foundation, namely in the following form: - foam: 2 Caucasian women; - liquid / cream: 33 women (18 Caucasians and 15 Asians); - loose powder: 4 women (2 Caucasian and 2 Asian); - compact powder: 18 women (5 caucasians and 13 asians); - compact paste: 2 Caucasian women; and - stick: 1 Caucasian woman.

On one of the halves of each face (that is to say on the cheek and the upper eyelid of the same side), the first composition C1 followed by the foundation or the eyeshadow are applied respectively to this cheek and on this eyelid.

On the second half of each face (that is to say on the second cheek and the second upper eyelid on the other side), only the foundation or the eyeshadow is applied respectively to this cheek and this eyelid, that is to say without prior application of the composition Cl. The application of the products on the skin is performed in the morning. Immediately after this application and 8 hours later, evaluations (self-evaluations and professional evaluations) of the presence and homogeneity of the foundation and eye shadow are performed. Results

The results below show comparisons felt by users immediately after application and after a duration of 8 hours.

Immediately after application of the second makeup composition (foundation and eyeshadow) on the first composition Cl, users and professionals have found that: - the application of this second composition is facilitated through the presence of the first composition Cl; - the makeup result seems more uniform, more homogeneous; - no phenomenon of "lint" on the skin is observed.

After 8 hours, the users and professionals evaluated the following benefits / properties: - improved makeup hold, especially color over time; - non-stick properties; - smoothing properties (pores and fine lines are less marked by makeup); - anti-streaking properties (makeup loses less in the folds); - mitigation of migration (makeup does not drool); - uniformity and homogeneity of makeup; - brilliant makeup result.

Conclusion

It emerges from the evaluations that the use of a first composition, comprising at least hydrophobic silica airgel particles, applied to the skin prior to a makeup composition normally used makes it possible in general to improve the makeup result. in time and / or in extreme climatic conditions (heat / humidity), in particular in terms of the behavior of the color provided by the makeup and homogeneity.

Another advantage provided by the makeup kit according to the invention is that the successive application of the makeup composition to the first composition previously applied to the skin is facilitated.

Claims (19)

MODIFIED CLAIMS 1. Makeup kit comprising at least: ·· a first composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, dedicated to being applied to the skin of the face and / or the body comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least hydrophobic silica airgel particles. a second composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, intended to be applied to all or part of a deposit of said first composition, said second composition being a dye-making composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, said first composition being distinct from said second composition; and said first and second compositions being packaged separately in one and the same packaging article or in two separate or separate packaging articles. 2. Kit according to claim 1, wherein the hydrophobic silica airgel particles have a specific surface per unit mass (Sm) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 / g and better still 600 to 800 m2 / g. Kit according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the hydrophobic silica airgel particles have an oil absorption capacity measured with WET POINT ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g of particles, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and better still 8 to 12 ml / g. 4. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the hydrophobic silica airgel particles have a size expressed in terms of volume average diameter (E) f 1, ranging from 1 to 1500 μm, better still 1 at 1000 .mu.m, preferably from 1 to 100 .mu.m, in particular from 1 to 30 .mu.m, more preferably from 5 to 25 .mu.m, more preferably from 5 to 20 .mu.m and more preferably from 5 to 15 .mu.m. 5. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophobic silica airgel particles have a packed density ranging from 0.04 g / cm3 to 0.10 g / cm3, preferably 0.05 g / cm3. cm3 at 0.08 g / cm3. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophobic silica airgel particles have a specific surface area per unit volume (Sv) ranging from 5 to 60 m 2 / em 3, preferably from 10 to 50 m 2 / cm3 and better from 15 to 40 m2 / cm3. 7. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophobic silica airgel particles are silylated silica airgel particles and in particular hydrophobic silica airgel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the hydrophobic silica airgel particles represent from 0.05 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1. at 5% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 2% or even 0.5 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the first composition. 9. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the first composition further comprises at least one acrylic thickening polymer. 10. Kit according to the preceding claim, wherein the acrylic thickening polymers are chosen from: (a) (meth) acrylic associative thickeners; (b) crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers; (c) crosslinked copolymers of (meth) acrylic acid and (C 1 -C 6) alkyl acrylate; (d) nonionic homopolymers and copolymers containing ethylenically unsaturated monomers of ester and / or amide type; (e) homopolymers of ammonium acrylate or copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide; (f) homopolymers and copolymers of (meth) acrylamido (C 1 -C 4) alkyl sulfonic acids; (g) homopolymers and copolymers of crosslinked methacryloyloxyalkyl (C 1 -C 4) trialkyl (C 1 -C 4) ammonium Kit according to claim 9 or 10, in which the acrylic thickening polymers are chosen from crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid. 12. Kit according to any one of claims 9 to 11, wherein the acrylic thickening polymer or polymers are present in an amount of between 0.01 and 5% by weight, especially 0.1 to 2% by weight or even 0, 2 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the first composition. 13. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, the first composition being in the form of a serum. 14. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, the first composition having a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 0.05 Pa.s to 20 Pa.s, preferably from 0.1 Pa.s to 5 Pa.s. . 15. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, the second coloring makeup composition being devoid of hydrophobic silica airgel particles. 16. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, the second dye makeup composition being a foundation, a complexion powder, an eyeliner, a lipstick, an eye shadow, an eyeshadow, an anti-aging product. , a lip liner, preferably a foundation, an eyeshadow. 17. A cosmetic process for makeup of the skin of the face and / or the body comprising at least the steps of: "applying to the skin of the face and / or the body a layer of a first composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least hydrophobic silica airgel particles, as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 14, and - applying all or part of the deposit made with the first composition at least one layer of a second coloring makeup composition as defined in any one of claims 1-15 and 16, said second coloring makeup composition being distinct from the first composition, said first and second compositions being packaged separately in one and the same packaging article or in two separate or separate packaging articles. 18. A method for facilitating the application of a second coloring makeup composition as defined in any one of claims 1, 15 and 16 and / or for improving the makeup result over time and / or in extreme climatic conditions. a second dyed makeup composition as defined in any one of claims 1-15 and 16, comprising the application to the skin of the face and / or the body, prior to the application of said second makeup composition colorant, a deposit on the skin to be made up of a first composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least hydrophobic silica airgel particles as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 14. 19. Use of a first composition, in particular a cosmetic composition, comprising at least hydrophobic silica airgel particles as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 14, to facilitate the application of a second coloring makeup composition. as defined in any one of claims 1, 15 and 16 and / or improving the makeup result of said second coloring makeup composition, the first composition being dedicated to being applied to the skin of the face and / or the body, the second makeup composition being distinct from the first composition and being applied to all or part of said first composition, said first and second compositions being packaged separately in one and the same packaging article or in two separate or distinct packaging articles;