EP0578527B1 - Support textile pour entoilage thermocollant comportant en trame des fils texturés par jet d'air - Google Patents
Support textile pour entoilage thermocollant comportant en trame des fils texturés par jet d'air Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- EP0578527B1 EP0578527B1 EP93401621A EP93401621A EP0578527B1 EP 0578527 B1 EP0578527 B1 EP 0578527B1 EP 93401621 A EP93401621 A EP 93401621A EP 93401621 A EP93401621 A EP 93401621A EP 0578527 B1 EP0578527 B1 EP 0578527B1
- Authority
- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- yarn
- weft
- thread
- core
- effect
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired - Lifetime
Links
Images
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G1/00—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics
- D02G1/16—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using jets or streams of turbulent gases, e.g. air, steam
- D02G1/168—Producing crimped or curled fibres, filaments, yarns, or threads, giving them latent characteristics using jets or streams of turbulent gases, e.g. air, steam including drawing or stretching on the same machine
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/20—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads
- D03D15/283—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the material of the fibres or filaments constituting the yarns or threads synthetic polymer-based, e.g. polyamide or polyester fibres
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/49—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads textured; curled; crimped
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2401/00—Physical properties
- D10B2401/06—Load-responsive characteristics
- D10B2401/061—Load-responsive characteristics elastic
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
-
- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
- Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
- Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
- Y10T442/30—Woven fabric [i.e., woven strand or strip material]
-
- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
- Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
- Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
- Y10T442/30—Woven fabric [i.e., woven strand or strip material]
- Y10T442/3065—Including strand which is of specific structural definition
- Y10T442/3073—Strand material is core-spun [not sheath-core bicomponent strand]
- Y10T442/3081—Core is synthetic polymeric material
-
- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
- Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
- Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
- Y10T442/40—Knit fabric [i.e., knit strand or strip material]
- Y10T442/425—Including strand which is of specific structural definition
- Y10T442/438—Strand material formed of individual filaments having different chemical compositions
-
- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y10—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
- Y10T—TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
- Y10T442/00—Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
- Y10T442/40—Knit fabric [i.e., knit strand or strip material]
- Y10T442/45—Knit fabric is characterized by a particular or differential knit pattern other than open knit fabric or a fabric in which the strand denier is specified
- Y10T442/456—Including additional strand inserted within knit fabric
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a textile support intended for interlining of clothing pieces, in particular intended to constitute a fusible interlining by deposition of hot-melt polymers on its surface.
- the supports for fusible interlining there are on the one hand the textile supports proper, and on the other hand the nonwovens.
- the actual textile supports are obtained by weaving or knitting yarns, while the nonwovens are obtained by constituting and consolidating a sheet of fibers or filaments.
- shrinkage and heat-setting treatments have the effect of increasing the volume of the textile support and thus of modifying its feel. This necessitates producing, during weaving or knitting, a textile support which has a width of 15 to 30% greater than that obtained after the shrinkage and heat-setting treatments. It is therefore necessary to implement trades allowing to work in greater width.
- the textile support thus retracted has a residual extensibility which is close to the rate of retraction.
- This extensibility can affect the non-deformability of the garment when worn, since the interlining is not able to stabilize the piece of clothing, when it is itself extensible, for example when it is a mesh article.
- the textile support has very good covering power, so that the deposits of hot-melt polymer produced on the surface of said support do not penetrate inside that. -ci, such penetration having the effect of locally stiffening said interlining and therefore the piece of clothing.
- the penetration of the polymer is all the less easy when the surface of the support is closed, that is to say that there is a reduced spacing between the different fibers or filaments which constitute the support. .
- the more this spacing is reduced the more the support has a high covering power.
- the interlining support made of nonwoven has a much greater covering power than the textile support itself.
- the nonwoven lacks bulk to constitute a fusible interfacing acceptable in many applications.
- the aim set by the applicant is to provide a textile support for fusible interlining which has a covering power similar to that of a nonwoven and which does not have the aforementioned drawbacks of the textile support comprising textured threads obtained by the fixed false twist process.
- This object is perfectly achieved by the support for fusible interlining according to the invention.
- This support is of the textile support type in that it consists of a fabric or weft knit. In known manner, it comprises textured synthetic yarns.
- at least the weft of the fabric or weft knitted fabric is made of very large synthetic yarns, obtained by the air jet texturing technique from at least two multifilament yarns, namely a first yarn. core for 20 to 40% by weight, and a second effect thread for 60 to 80% by weight, the overfeeding of the core thread being between 10 and 25% and the overfeeding of the effect thread at least 70%.
- the textile support for fusible interfacing has excellent covering power, a feel comparable to a support produced from fiber yarns, and a very large volume.
- the textile support being a weft knitting
- the percentage by weight of weft yarn relative to the warp yarn is at least 80%.
- the coverage rate of the textile support obtained is very much higher than that obtained when a weft yarn is used which is a yarn of fibers of the same count, replacing the textured yarn by jet of air according to the invention.
- the multifilament yarn corresponding to the core yarn is a yarn having a certain extensibility.
- the purpose of this is to give the textile support for fusible interlining a residual extensibility which is close to that obtained with textile supports woven or knitted from fiber yarns. Indeed if a high extensibility of textile supports for fusible interlining is prohibitive since it does not stabilize the drapes themselves extensible, nevertheless it is desirable that said supports have a certain extensibility so as to preserve the flexibility of the garment.
- the extensibility in question is around 10 to 15%.
- the extensibility of the weft thread is obtained by using filaments based on elastane in the core thread. Despite the presence of the loops produced around the core thread by the effect thread, the weft thread retains part of the extensibility of the core thread.
- the filaments of the effect yarn have a unitary titration which is between 1 and 3 decitex.
- This titration range makes it possible to avoid the drawbacks of excessively fine filaments and those of excessively large filaments.
- the filaments are too fine, there may be a flattening of the filaments during the application of the polymer stitches on the textile support for the production of the fusible interlining.
- the use of filaments in the effect yarn with a titration greater than 3 decitex it is detrimental to obtaining a high coverage rate, for a determined grammage support.
- the fusible interlining consists of a textile support, that is to say a fabric or a weft knitted fabric of which at least the weft threads are synthetic threads textured by the technique of texturing by air jet from at least two multifilament yarns, namely a first yarn called core yarn, for 20 to 40% by weight and a second yarn called effect yarn for 60 to 80% by weight ; more during the manufacturing of this weft thread, the overfeeding of the core thread is between 10 and 25% and the overfeeding of the effect thread of at least 70%.
- Such a textured yarn can be used not only in the weft but also in the warp, for simplicity such a yarn will be designated in the present text by weft yarn.
- FIG. 1 schematically represents the process for manufacturing a weft yarn 1, which is therefore a textured synthetic yarn meeting the above parameters.
- This weft thread 1 is constituted by the assembly of two multifilament threads.
- a first wire called core wire 2 and a second wire called effect wire 3.
- the core thread 2 is unwound from a spool 4, passes through a tensioning device 5 and is wound in several turns around a feed roller 6 before entering the texturing nozzle 7.
- the thread d effect 3 follows a similar route: it is unwound from the reel 8, passes through the tension system 9, is wound under several turns around the feed roller 10 and penetrates at the same time as the core wire 2 into the texturing nozzle 7.
- the core thread 2 passes through a wetting system, not shown, before entering the nozzle 7.
- the texturing nozzle 7 is supplied with compressed air by the channel 11 from a source not shown.
- the thread 12, leaving the texturing nozzle 7 passes over a first roller 13 then a second intermediate roller 14 around which it is wound under several turns then the weft thread obtained 1 is received in the form of a coil 15, driven by friction thanks to the receiving roller 16.
- the peripheral speed of the supply rollers 6 and 10, respectively of the core wire 2 and the effect wire 3 is greater than the peripheral speed of the first intermediate roller 13.
- the rate of overfeeding of the core wire must be between 10 and 25%. This means that the peripheral speed of the feed roller 6 will be 10 to 25% higher than the peripheral speed of the winding of the weft thread 1 on the first intermediate roller 13. Similarly with regard to the effect yarn, the rate of overfeeding must be according to the invention at least 70%. This means that the peripheral speed of the feed roller 10 will be 70% higher than the winding speed of the weft thread 1 on the first intermediate roller 13.
- the second intermediate roller 14 is used to regulate the tension of the weft thread 1. It may have a peripheral speed slightly higher than that of the first intermediate roller 13.
- the peripheral speed of the receiving roller 16 can be higher or lower than that of the first intermediate roller 13.
- a peripheral speed of the first intermediate roller 13 is chosen which is lower than that of the receiving roller 16 when it is desired that the wire d 'core 2 is in the weft thread 1 in a substantially stretched state, without excessive formation of loops on said core thread.
- the peripheral speed of the first intermediate roller 13 defines, with respect to the peripheral speeds of the supply rollers 6 and 10 respectively, the supercharging of the core 2 and effect 3 yarns when these pass through the texturing nozzle 7.
- the swirl effect caused inside this chamber by compressed air intertwines the filaments making up the core 2 and effect 3 wires so that loops are formed from the filaments of the effect 3 wire which are inserted and blocked by the filaments of the core thread 2. It is understood that the rate of overfeeding of the effect thread influences the looping effect obtained. Overfeeding the core wire 2 opens the filaments thereof so that the filaments of the effect wire 3 can, under the effect of compressed air, penetrate between the unitary filaments of the wire. soul 2.
- the installation which has just been described also comprises, between the tensioning device 5 or 9 and the texturing nozzle 7, a drawing system comprising two feed rollers with the downstream roller which rotates at a peripheral speed greater than that of the upstream roller and which, being heated, thermofixes the wire.
- the supercharging of the core thread and of the effect thread according to the invention must be understood as being defined from the peripheral speeds of the downstream roller of the drawing system and of the first intermediate roller.
- a weft yarn 1 is produced having a titration of 360 decitex, comprising a proportion of 30% by weight of core yarn and 70% by weight of effect yarn.
- the core thread 2 is a multifilament thread of 170 dtex, 72 strands of POY type, each multifilament making 2.36 dtex;
- the effect thread is a multifilament thread of 170 dtex, 72 strands of POY type, each filament making 2.36 dtex.
- the core and effect wires 2, 3 were drawn in the drawing system until reaching a titration of 100 dtex. This weft thread 1 was obtained with an overfeeding of the core thread of 11% and an overfeeding of the effect thread of 170%.
- This weft yarn 1 was used in the manufacture of a weft knit for fusible interlining in which the weft represents 80% of the total weight of the knit.
- a weft knit having the same texture and the same pattern was produced by using as a weft yarn a fiber yarn of the same count obtained using the open-end spinning technique called open end.
- the knitted fabric obtained with the synthetic weft yarn textured by air jet has a much higher coverage rate than that obtained with the fiber yarn.
- the same is true for the comparison of the thicknesses of the two knits. The difference observed is more than double. More specifically, the measurement of the thickness obtained using the apparatus marketed by the company SODEMAT was 0.77 mm for the weft knitting according to the invention and 0.33 mm for the weft knitting with the open end wire.
- weft knitting obtained with a weft of fibers it is usual to subject it to treatments in particular scraping, intended to bring out the surface fibers. Even after scraping, it is noted that the weft knitting with yarn of fibers has a coverage rate which is lower than that of the weft knitting according to the invention. Indeed, the loops of textured yarns with a large volume close off the spaces between the stitches of the weft knit much more than do the knitted fibers, the latter remaining on the surface of the weft knit.
- the coverage obtained with the knitted fabric of the invention is, compared to the textile supports usually used for fusible interlining, much more uniform.
- the glue dots when applying the glue dots to the textile support, better adhesion of the polymer is obtained.
- the textile support according to the invention it is possible to obtain a covering having a given covering power using a support of lower grammage. In addition, it is possible to significantly reduce the amount of polymer used during the application of the glue dots.
- the present invention is not limited to the embodiment which has just been described by way of non-exhaustive example.
- Such a core thread has a certain elasticity which will be partially found, despite a certain blockage due to the presence of the effect threads, in the weft thread and therefore in the textile support for fusible interlining produced, according to the invention, from the air jet textured weft yarn.
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Physics & Mathematics (AREA)
- Fluid Mechanics (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
- Details Of Garments (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
- Pens And Brushes (AREA)
- Dental Preparations (AREA)
- Curing Cements, Concrete, And Artificial Stone (AREA)
- Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
- Chemical Or Physical Treatment Of Fibers (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
- Manufacturing Of Multi-Layer Textile Fabrics (AREA)
- Laminated Bodies (AREA)
- Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
- Packages (AREA)
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR9208952 | 1992-07-06 | ||
FR9208952A FR2693211B1 (fr) | 1992-07-06 | 1992-07-06 | Support Textile pour entoilage thermocollant comportant en trame des fils texturés par jet d'air. |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP0578527A1 EP0578527A1 (fr) | 1994-01-12 |
EP0578527B1 true EP0578527B1 (fr) | 1997-05-21 |
Family
ID=9432073
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
EP93401621A Expired - Lifetime EP0578527B1 (fr) | 1992-07-06 | 1993-06-24 | Support textile pour entoilage thermocollant comportant en trame des fils texturés par jet d'air |
Country Status (21)
Country | Link |
---|---|
US (1) | US5350626A (ko) |
EP (1) | EP0578527B1 (ko) |
JP (1) | JP3296894B2 (ko) |
KR (1) | KR100254142B1 (ko) |
AT (1) | ATE153394T1 (ko) |
AU (1) | AU663271B2 (ko) |
CA (1) | CA2099859C (ko) |
CZ (1) | CZ285252B6 (ko) |
DE (1) | DE69310821T2 (ko) |
DK (1) | DK0578527T3 (ko) |
ES (1) | ES2104095T3 (ko) |
FI (1) | FI100410B (ko) |
FR (1) | FR2693211B1 (ko) |
GR (1) | GR3023912T3 (ko) |
HU (1) | HU216322B (ko) |
LT (1) | LT3162B (ko) |
NO (1) | NO303789B1 (ko) |
PL (1) | PL171937B1 (ko) |
RU (1) | RU2072008C1 (ko) |
TR (1) | TR27007A (ko) |
UA (1) | UA27253C2 (ko) |
Families Citing this family (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
GB9323439D0 (en) * | 1993-11-13 | 1994-01-05 | Coats Ltd J & P | Method for making thread |
US5527597A (en) * | 1995-03-01 | 1996-06-18 | Southern Mills, Inc. | Stretchable flame resistant fabric |
FR2749135B1 (fr) * | 1996-05-29 | 1998-08-21 | Picardie Lainiere | Procede de traitement d'un support textile pour entoilage thermocollant a base de fils textures |
Family Cites Families (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
US3410076A (en) * | 1955-11-04 | 1968-11-12 | Eastman Kodak Co | Volumized yarn of large denier |
US4000551A (en) * | 1975-01-15 | 1977-01-04 | Crimpfil Limited | Production of bulky yarns |
US4069657A (en) * | 1975-07-18 | 1978-01-24 | E. I. Du Pont De Nemours And Company | Yarn texturing process |
US4319447A (en) * | 1979-03-08 | 1982-03-16 | E. I. Du Pont De Nemours And Company | Method of forming a bulky yarn |
US4248036A (en) * | 1979-03-08 | 1981-02-03 | E. I. Du Pont De Nemours And Company | Bulky yarn |
DE3339911A1 (de) * | 1983-11-04 | 1985-05-23 | Akzo Gmbh, 5600 Wuppertal | Verwendung von blasduesentexturierten garnen bei der herstellung von schleifmitteln auf unterlage |
-
1992
- 1992-07-06 FR FR9208952A patent/FR2693211B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
-
1993
- 1993-06-17 UA UA93002534A patent/UA27253C2/uk unknown
- 1993-06-17 US US08/078,620 patent/US5350626A/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1993-06-23 KR KR1019930011448A patent/KR100254142B1/ko not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1993-06-24 DK DK93401621.3T patent/DK0578527T3/da active
- 1993-06-24 EP EP93401621A patent/EP0578527B1/fr not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1993-06-24 DE DE69310821T patent/DE69310821T2/de not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1993-06-24 AT AT93401621T patent/ATE153394T1/de not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1993-06-24 ES ES93401621T patent/ES2104095T3/es not_active Expired - Lifetime
- 1993-06-29 AU AU41607/93A patent/AU663271B2/en not_active Ceased
- 1993-07-02 CZ CZ931349A patent/CZ285252B6/cs not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1993-07-02 LT LTIP755A patent/LT3162B/lt not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1993-07-05 CA CA002099859A patent/CA2099859C/en not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1993-07-05 JP JP19178593A patent/JP3296894B2/ja not_active Expired - Fee Related
- 1993-07-05 HU HU9301953A patent/HU216322B/hu not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1993-07-05 RU RU9393048333A patent/RU2072008C1/ru not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1993-07-05 NO NO932443A patent/NO303789B1/no not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1993-07-06 PL PL93299582A patent/PL171937B1/pl not_active IP Right Cessation
- 1993-07-06 TR TR00532/93A patent/TR27007A/xx unknown
- 1993-07-06 FI FI933107A patent/FI100410B/fi not_active IP Right Cessation
-
1997
- 1997-06-26 GR GR970401560T patent/GR3023912T3/el unknown
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Inventor name: COVET, FABRICE Inventor name: GROSHENS, PIERRE |
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17P | Request for examination filed |
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17Q | First examination report despatched |
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