EP0474983A2 - Procédé pour la fabrication d'un article tricoté rectiligne façonné pour un vêtement à manches - Google Patents

Procédé pour la fabrication d'un article tricoté rectiligne façonné pour un vêtement à manches Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0474983A2
EP0474983A2 EP91110006A EP91110006A EP0474983A2 EP 0474983 A2 EP0474983 A2 EP 0474983A2 EP 91110006 A EP91110006 A EP 91110006A EP 91110006 A EP91110006 A EP 91110006A EP 0474983 A2 EP0474983 A2 EP 0474983A2
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
knitted
stitches
sleeves
stitch
knitting
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP91110006A
Other languages
German (de)
English (en)
Other versions
EP0474983B1 (fr
EP0474983A3 (en
Inventor
Horst Essig
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
Original Assignee
H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by H Stoll GmbH and Co KG filed Critical H Stoll GmbH and Co KG
Publication of EP0474983A2 publication Critical patent/EP0474983A2/fr
Publication of EP0474983A3 publication Critical patent/EP0474983A3/de
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0474983B1 publication Critical patent/EP0474983B1/fr
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
    • D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
    • D04B1/246—Upper torso garments, e.g. sweaters, shirts, leotards
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00—Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/03—Shape features
    • D10B2403/032—Flat fabric of variable width, e.g. including one or more fashioned panels

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method for producing a form-fitting flat knitted fabric for a garment provided with sleeves on a two-bed flat knitting machine with a needle bed offset device, stitch transfer device and pattern device.
  • the one-piece garment blank begins at the ends of the sleeve sections and at the distal end of a front part or back part and then in the shoulder area by continuously shaping the outer section areas according to a desired course of the transitions is knitted between the sleeves and the shoulder area with continuous courses.
  • DE-PS 28 03 338 a method is known in which the sleeve sections of a one-piece garment blank by the formation of bulges in the shoulder area, achieved by increasing the number of stitches of the generally continuous wales, in a desired end position to the body parts of the garment blank to be brought.
  • the invention has for its object to provide a method of the type mentioned so that with the flat knit full freedom in the pattern design of the sleeves and the body parts of the garment according to the possibilities of a pattern device used and the connection of the sleeve parts to the body parts while avoiding a time-consuming ax technique and without seams in the shoulder area.
  • the object is achieved according to the invention with a method in which initially separated with threads fed by separate thread guides and at the same time one or two body parts, for example front parts, and the two sleeves from the ends thereof are knitted according to the pattern up to the sleeve ends, that from then on the front part and a shoulder area are knitted using the thread guide previously used for the adjacent body part, for example the front part, and the end row of the sleeves are looped around inward towards the shoulder area until the beginning of the back part, for example, the sleeve end edges completely against the body parts inwards are pivoted, whereupon the last part of the body, for example the back part, is knitted with a fixed end using the same thread guide, and that a neckline formed in the shoulder area with a in the knitve is formed on the mesh-fixed edge.
  • the sleeves are first practically finished knitted together with a body part adjacent to them with separate thread guides, each beginning with the front end of the Sleeve.
  • the active length of the needle bed only has to have a number of needles which corresponds to the sum of the wales of the front part and the circumference of the two sleeves.
  • the sleeves have reached their full length, only the thread guide with which the front part or the front parts lying between the two sleeves have been formed is used to form the remaining flat knitted fabric, i.e. its shoulder area and back part the sleeve cuffs are looped around the shoulder area. It is thereby achieved that in the flat knitted fabric released from the knitting area, the sleeves initially knitted parallel to the front part are pivoted into a transverse position to the longitudinal direction of the front part. After the front part and the back part of the flat knitted fabric have been placed on top of one another, the garment can be finished by the formation of two side seams which connect the side edges of the front part and the back part and close the sleeves and which run through the armpit.
  • continuous relief stitch rows can advantageously be knitted at regular intervals over the shoulder region and over an entire edge of the sleeve end, before a further transfer of stitches to continue the attachment of the sleeves to the shoulder region.
  • the sleeves are knitted using separate thread guides, they can have any pattern over their full length and also deviate from the pattern of the body parts of the knitted fabric. Since the finished knitted sleeve areas are swiveled into the shoulder area with the thread guide used for the body part lying between the sleeves, there is a clean stitch transition without the formation of holes at the attachment points of the sleeves.
  • Another important advantage of the method according to the invention is that the last part of the body knitted, for example the back part, is knitted with a firm finish.
  • a patent edge can be knitted at the end of the back part, whereby according to the invention all stitches are first reassigned to one of the two needle beds, then a row of nets and a row of half-tubular stitches are knitted in each needle bed before the patent edge is knitted in the desired length on both needle beds.
  • all stitches can first be reassigned to one of the two needle beds and then a stitch-tight decoupling of the knitted fabric by successively reassembling the individual stitches from a knitted edge into the free needle bed and, after the free needle bed has been offset, the stitches can be individually hung back .
  • a method can expediently be used, which is the subject of the German patent application P 39 39 584.7 dated November 30, 1989 by the applicant.
  • Fig. 1 shows a one-piece flat knitted fabric for a long-sleeved sweater, as it is after the release from the flat knitting machine.
  • the one-piece flat knitted fabric produced on a two-bed flat knitting machine with a needle bed offset device, stitch transfer device and pattern device is divided into a front part 10, two sleeve parts 11, 12, a back part 13 and - between front part 10 and back part 13 - a shoulder region 14 with a slit-like neck opening 15
  • Each part of the flat knitted fabric can have any pattern.
  • the two sleeve parts 11 and 12 are drawn with dash-dotted lines, as they are first knitted together with the front part 10 on the flat knitting machine, and then when finished knitting the Front part 10, the shoulder region 14 and the beginning of the back entile 13 with their final stitch row 11a, 12a to be coupled to the above-mentioned body parts, which is indicated by arrows 16.
  • the front part 10 and back part 13 and the two sleeve parts 11, 12 each have a rib edge 10b, 11b, 12b, 13b at their free ends.
  • Lines 22 indicate the seam lines along which the one-piece flat knitted fabric is subsequently sewn together into a sweater after the flat knitted fabric has been folded along the line of symmetry S. This results in two side seams that run from the body part over the armpits into the sleeves.
  • FIG. 2 In the illustration of the flat knitted fabric in FIG. 2, three thread guides A, B and C are indicated at the lower edge, and the knitted fabric formation is illustrated in the individual knitted fabric areas with the arrow lines indicating the guidance of the thread guides.
  • the thread guide A is used for the knitting of the front part 10
  • the thread guide B is used for the knitting of the sleeve part 11
  • the thread guide C is used for the knitting of the second sleeve part 12.
  • the arrow lines A.1, B.1 and C.1 show the movement of the thread guides during the formation of the individual courses.
  • the arrow line A.2 indicates the course of the knitted fabric in the transition region between the front part 10 and the back part 13 of the flat knitted fabric, in which the transverse pivoting of the Sleeve parts 11 and 12 and their coupling to the body parts of the flat knitted fabric.
  • the end rows 11a, 12a of the sleeve parts 11, 12 are looped inward in stitches.
  • a stitch-fixed chain edge is also formed on the neckline 15.
  • a knitting method for producing such a warp edge is described in German patent application P 39 39 584.7.
  • Fig. 3 shows successive rows of stitches in a known thread running representation, each row of stitches being drawn into a pair of lines of stitches, of which the lower line of sticks symbolizes the needles of the front needle bed I and the upper line of sticks symbolizes the needles of the rear needle bed II.
  • the individual rows of stitches shown are labeled from bottom to top with the letters a, b, c, etc.
  • the bottom row of stitches a is a last right / right row of stitches of the patterned area of the back part 13, before reaching the transition point 20.
  • a 1: 1 row of stitches is knitted and all stitches of the front needle bed are on needles of the rear needle bed reassigned.
  • a row of stitches c is knitted as a so-called row of nets with needles of both needle beds I and II.
  • This is followed by a half tube stitch row d knitted only with needles of the rear needle bed II and then a half tube stitch row e knitted only with needles of the front needle bed I.
  • These transition stitch rows b-e are then followed by a number of rib stitch rows f which depend on the width of the desired rib edge region 13b and are knitted by the needles of both needle beds in a selection of the needles known for a so-called patent edge.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Knitting Machines (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
EP91110006A 1990-08-31 1991-06-19 Procédé pour la fabrication d'un article tricoté rectiligne façonné pour un vêtement à manches Expired - Lifetime EP0474983B1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
DE4027606 1990-08-31
DE4027606A DE4027606A1 (de) 1990-08-31 1990-08-31 Verfahren zur herstellung eines formgerechten flachgestrickes fuer ein mit aermeln versehenes kleidungsstueck

Publications (3)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0474983A2 true EP0474983A2 (fr) 1992-03-18
EP0474983A3 EP0474983A3 (en) 1992-06-10
EP0474983B1 EP0474983B1 (fr) 1996-07-10

Family

ID=6413323

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
EP91110006A Expired - Lifetime EP0474983B1 (fr) 1990-08-31 1991-06-19 Procédé pour la fabrication d'un article tricoté rectiligne façonné pour un vêtement à manches

Country Status (5)

Country Link
US (1) US5214941A (fr)
EP (1) EP0474983B1 (fr)
JP (1) JP2594479B2 (fr)
DE (2) DE4027606A1 (fr)
ES (1) ES2091835T3 (fr)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0675219A1 (fr) * 1994-03-29 1995-10-04 Shima Seiki Manufacturing, Ltd. Procédé de tricotage d'un bord-côte

Families Citing this family (13)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
DE4228408A1 (de) * 1992-08-26 1994-03-03 Stoll & Co H Verfahren zur Herstellung eines formgerechten, einstückigen Flachgestricks, für ein mit Ärmeln versehenes Kleidungsstück
IT1271974B (it) * 1993-03-05 1997-06-10 Benetton Spa Procedimento per la realizzazione di un capo di abbigliamento completo su di una macchina rettilinea a due fronture con aghi a linguetta
SE504859C2 (sv) * 1994-08-12 1997-05-12 Kriss Ab Sätt att framställa ett stickat plagg
SE9402723L (sv) * 1994-08-12 1996-02-13 Kriss Ab Sätt att framställa fickor på ett stickat plagg
DE19630006A1 (de) * 1996-07-25 1998-01-29 Stoll & Co H Verfahren zur Herstellung von nahtlos zu offen oder geschlossenen an den Rändern verbundenen Flachgestricken
DE19704646B4 (de) * 1997-02-07 2005-02-03 H. Stoll Gmbh & Co. Verfahren zur Herstellung eines mit Ärmeln versehenen Kleidungsstückes auf einer Zweibett-Flachstrickmaschine
WO2000028121A1 (fr) * 1998-11-10 2000-05-18 Shima Seiki Mfg.,Ltd. Procede de tricotage d'un tricot tridimensionnel
US10368590B2 (en) 2015-11-03 2019-08-06 Nike, Inc. Flat-knit support garment for upper torso
US10179960B2 (en) 2017-05-02 2019-01-15 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with tubular-jacquard knit structure
US10145042B2 (en) 2017-05-02 2018-12-04 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with tubular-jacquard knit structure
US10415164B2 (en) 2017-05-02 2019-09-17 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with three-dimensional knit structures
US10912340B2 (en) 2017-05-02 2021-02-09 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with tubular-jacquard knit structure
US11142854B2 (en) 2018-10-03 2021-10-12 Nike, Inc. Upper-torso garment with three-dimensional knit structures

Citations (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR1525787A (fr) * 1966-06-07 1968-05-17 Courtaulds Ltd Procédé de tricotage sur un métier de bonneterie
DE1811029A1 (de) * 1967-12-01 1969-07-17 Courtaulds Ltd Verfahren zur Herstellung von Rohstuecken von mit einem AErmel versehenen gestrickten Kleidungsstuecken
DE2614283A1 (de) * 1976-04-02 1977-10-06 Stoll & Co H Verfahren zum maschinellen stricken eines einstueckigen bekleidungsstueckrohlings
FR2353665A1 (fr) * 1976-05-31 1977-12-30 Herstal Sa Procede de tricotage
DE2803338A1 (de) * 1978-01-26 1979-08-02 Stoll & Co H Verfahren zum maschinellen stricken eines einstueckigen bekleidungsstueckrohlings
GB2114170A (en) * 1982-01-29 1983-08-17 Stoll Geschaeftsfuehrungsgesel A knitted fabric and method of producing the same
GB2183264A (en) * 1985-11-25 1987-06-03 Azpiroz Jose Maria Picaza Knitting sleeved garments
DE3939584A1 (de) * 1989-11-30 1991-06-06 Stoll & Co H Verfahren zum fortlaufenden stricken von aneinanderhaengenden gestrickstuecken auf einer flachstrickmaschine

Family Cites Families (10)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US2319771A (en) * 1938-04-21 1943-05-18 Julius Kayser & Co Single unit full-fashioned stocking
FR1397176A (fr) * 1963-11-08 1965-04-30 Gaston Verdier Ets Procédé de fabrication d'articles tricotés comportant des pinces et articles obtenus par ce procédé
GB1328701A (en) * 1970-03-31 1973-08-30 Courtaulds Ltd Knitting of garments
US3796068A (en) * 1971-04-08 1974-03-12 Courtaulds Ltd Knitting method
CH569117A5 (fr) * 1974-01-25 1975-11-14 Dubied & Cie Sa E
GB1487421A (en) * 1974-02-05 1977-09-28 Courtaulds Ltd Knitting method
GB1528161A (en) * 1975-01-07 1978-10-11 Courtaulds Ltd Knitting method
GB1581530A (en) * 1976-08-24 1980-12-17 Courtaulds Ltd Knitting method
DE2841836A1 (de) * 1977-10-04 1979-04-05 Courtaulds Ltd Verfahren zum stricken eines mit aermel versehenen kleidungsstuecks
JPH0772384B2 (ja) * 1990-06-05 1995-08-02 株式会社島精機製作所 編地の接合方法及び美しい接合部をもつ編地

Patent Citations (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR1525787A (fr) * 1966-06-07 1968-05-17 Courtaulds Ltd Procédé de tricotage sur un métier de bonneterie
DE1811029A1 (de) * 1967-12-01 1969-07-17 Courtaulds Ltd Verfahren zur Herstellung von Rohstuecken von mit einem AErmel versehenen gestrickten Kleidungsstuecken
DE2614283A1 (de) * 1976-04-02 1977-10-06 Stoll & Co H Verfahren zum maschinellen stricken eines einstueckigen bekleidungsstueckrohlings
FR2353665A1 (fr) * 1976-05-31 1977-12-30 Herstal Sa Procede de tricotage
DE2803338A1 (de) * 1978-01-26 1979-08-02 Stoll & Co H Verfahren zum maschinellen stricken eines einstueckigen bekleidungsstueckrohlings
GB2114170A (en) * 1982-01-29 1983-08-17 Stoll Geschaeftsfuehrungsgesel A knitted fabric and method of producing the same
GB2183264A (en) * 1985-11-25 1987-06-03 Azpiroz Jose Maria Picaza Knitting sleeved garments
DE3939584A1 (de) * 1989-11-30 1991-06-06 Stoll & Co H Verfahren zum fortlaufenden stricken von aneinanderhaengenden gestrickstuecken auf einer flachstrickmaschine

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP0675219A1 (fr) * 1994-03-29 1995-10-04 Shima Seiki Manufacturing, Ltd. Procédé de tricotage d'un bord-côte
US5537843A (en) * 1994-03-29 1996-07-23 Shima Seiki Manufacturing Ltd. Rib knitting method that provides cross-over yarns

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JP2594479B2 (ja) 1997-03-26
EP0474983B1 (fr) 1996-07-10
DE59107986D1 (de) 1996-08-14
EP0474983A3 (en) 1992-06-10
US5214941A (en) 1993-06-01
ES2091835T3 (es) 1996-11-16
DE4027606A1 (de) 1992-03-05
JPH04263654A (ja) 1992-09-18

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