CN114411425B - 高效环保型原液着色黏胶休闲面料的加工工艺 - Google Patents

高效环保型原液着色黏胶休闲面料的加工工艺 Download PDF

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CN114411425B
CN114411425B CN202111403550.4A CN202111403550A CN114411425B CN 114411425 B CN114411425 B CN 114411425B CN 202111403550 A CN202111403550 A CN 202111403550A CN 114411425 B CN114411425 B CN 114411425B
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张战旗
国靖
李鑫
王辉
卢韵静
王德振
耿飞
仲伟浩
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Lufeng Weaving and Dyeing Co Ltd
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Abstract

本发明涉及原液着色黏胶休闲面料的加工工艺技术领域,具体涉及一种高效环保型原液着色黏胶休闲面料的加工工艺。所述的高效环保型原液着色黏胶休闲面料的加工工艺:将原液着色黏胶织物坯布经过冷轧堆、碱洗、拉幅酶堆、超柔软、预缩;通过碱洗与拉幅酶堆的工艺结合;碱洗的工艺步骤为:将配制好的工作液加入水洗机轧槽内,浸轧原液着色黏胶休闲面料,在蒸箱内汽蒸,再经水洗槽洗涤,烘筒不升温湿落布。本发明提供一种高效环保型原液着色黏胶休闲面料的加工工艺,废水排放量微少,对原液着色黏胶面料颜色影响小,可显著提高原液着色黏胶休闲面料的起毛起球水平,并具有休闲风格。

Description

高效环保型原液着色黏胶休闲面料的加工工艺
技术领域
本发明涉及原液着色黏胶休闲面料的加工工艺技术领域,具体涉及一种高效环保型原液着色黏胶休闲面料的加工工艺。
背景技术
当前主流对原液着色黏胶纤维的处理工艺是通过退浆酶处理,工艺流程简便,稳定性好,但是附着于纤维上的油剂却难以去除,影响面料的进一步加工,现有技术中,生产厂家是通过烧碱去除表面附着的油剂,但烧碱蚀刻纤维使得面料反射不匀,原液着色纤维的色母粒丢失,使得面料颜色左右控制难度大,摩擦牢度变差,又造成了新的困扰。另外,黏胶纤维具有吸湿溶胀,强力较低的特点,使得制成成品后的面料抗起毛起球性能较差,影响穿着体验感。目前主流的原液着色黏胶面料处理流程为:烧毛、冷堆、退浆、煮炼、拉幅、预缩,此工艺流程只能去除坯布毛羽,无法对后道加工产生的毛羽进行去除,且面料强力损失大,使得抗起毛起球性能差;大用量烧碱的使用对原液着色纤维破坏大,影响面料颜色;此工艺流程污废排放量高,增加投入成本,对环境很不友好。
发明内容
本发明要解决的技术问题是提供一种高效环保型原液着色黏胶休闲面料的加工工艺,废水排放量微少,对原液着色黏胶面料颜色影响小,可显著提高原液着色黏胶休闲面料的起毛起球水平,并具有休闲风格。
本发明所述的高效环保型原液着色黏胶休闲面料的加工工艺:将原液着色黏胶织物坯布经过冷轧堆、碱洗、拉幅酶堆、超柔软、预缩;
碱洗的工作液为:碳酸钠15-20g/L,渗透剂2-5g/L;
碱洗的工艺步骤为:将配制好的工作液加入水洗机轧槽内,浸轧原液着色黏胶休闲面料,在蒸箱内汽蒸,再经水洗槽洗涤,烘筒不升温湿落布。
优选地,冷轧堆工作液为:退浆酶5-10g/L,渗透剂2-5g/L。
优选地,拉幅酶堆工作液为:生物抛光酶5-8g/L,渗透剂1-3g/L。
优选地,超柔软工作液为:柔软剂5-11g/L,渗透剂1-2g/L。
优选地,柔软剂为柔软剂TF-4865C或/和柔软剂DT-8500T。
优选地,渗透剂为渗透剂MRZ或渗透剂WA-M。
优选地,冷轧堆工艺条件为:轧余率75-85%,车速55-65%,堆布温度30-35℃,堆布时间20-30小时。
优选地,碱洗的工艺步骤为:将配制好的工作液加入水洗机轧槽内,液位70%-75%,浸轧原液着色黏胶休闲面料,轧余率55-65%,在温度为90-110℃蒸箱内汽蒸10-20min,再依次经过85-95℃、65-75℃、45-55℃、45-55℃、25-35℃水洗槽各洗涤35-45秒,烘筒不升温湿落布。
优选地,拉幅酶堆工艺条件为:轧余率55-65%,烘箱不升温湿落布,34-40℃恒温室堆置16-24小时。
优选地,超柔软工艺条件为:烘箱温度为110-140℃,轧余率55-65%,保持pH为5.5-6.5,上风量70-90%,下风量40-60%,排风量60-80%。
具体地,所述的高效环保型原液着色黏胶休闲面料的加工工艺,包括以下步骤:
(1)冷轧堆:轧余率75-85%,车速55-65%,堆布温度30-35℃,堆布时间20-30小时,冷轧堆工作液为:退浆酶5-10g/L,渗透剂A2-5g/L;
(2)碱洗:将配制好的工作液加入水洗机轧槽内,液位70%-75%,浸轧原液着色黏胶休闲面料,轧余率55-65%,在温度为90-110℃蒸箱内汽蒸10-20min,再依次经过85-95℃、65-75℃、45-55℃、45-55℃、25-35℃水洗槽各洗涤35-45秒,烘筒不升温湿落布,碱洗的工作液为:碳酸钠15-20g/L,渗透剂B 2-5g/L;
(3)拉幅酶堆:轧余率55-65%,烘箱不升温湿落布,34-40℃恒温室堆置16-24小时,拉幅酶堆工作液为:生物抛光酶5-8g/L,渗透剂C1-3g/L;
(4)超柔软:烘箱温度为110-140℃,轧余率55-65%,保持pH为5.5-6.5,上风量70-90%,下风量40-60%,排风量60-80%,超柔软工作液为:柔软剂5-11g/L,渗透剂D1-2g/L;
(5)预缩。
本发明所述的高效环保型原液着色黏胶休闲面料的加工工艺,通过碱洗与拉幅酶堆的工艺优化,并对染整流程进行梳理得到此高效环保型原液着色黏胶休闲面料的加工工艺,碱洗通过碳酸钠去油,处理手段温和,对颜色影响小,污废排放少;拉幅酶堆使用生物抛光酶去除面料毛羽,提高起毛起球水平,提高酶堆与超柔软的联合作用使面料具有休闲风格,具体为在冷轧堆中使用退浆酶去除经纱浆料,再通过纯碱洗去面料上附着的油脂以及杂质,通过在拉幅机浸轧生物抛光酶,去除面料上多余毛羽,改善起毛起球水平,最后再通过在超柔软机使用柔软剂并结合空气击打作用进一步提升手感,本发明的加工工艺流程高效,过程中不需要使用烧碱、双氧水等化学物质,面料颜色色变小,且产生废水量微少,成品后的原液着色黏胶面料,风格休闲,具有极好的抗起毛起球性能,各项指标均满足服用性能。
与现有技术相比,本发明具有以下的有益效果:
(1)本发明所述的高效环保型原液着色黏胶休闲面料的加工工艺,流程短,效率高,易实施;
(2)本发明所述的高效环保型原液着色黏胶休闲面料的加工工艺,产生废水量少,有利于环境可持续发展;
(3)本发明所述的加工工艺,对原液着色黏胶休闲面料的处理后,面料颜色变化幅度小,色差小,前后批批差小,抗起毛起球性能好,达到ASTM D4970-2010的4级标准。
具体实施方式
本发明提供了一种高效环保型原液着色黏胶休闲面料的加工工艺,本领域技术人员可以借鉴本文内容,适当改进工艺参数实现。特别需要指出的是,所有类似的替换和改动对本领域技术人员来书是显而易见的,它们都属于本发明保护的范围。本发明的制备方法已经通过较佳实施例进行了描述,相关人员明显能在不脱离本发明内容、精神和范围内对本发明的制备方法进行改动和适当变更与组合,来实现和应用本发明技术。为了进一步说明本发明,以下结合实施例对本发明的高效环保型原液着色黏胶休闲面料的加工工艺进行详细描述。
以下实施例所用的试剂均来自市购,实施例中退浆酶DS-HT购于鲁瑞精细化工有限公司,渗透剂WA-M购于购于鲁瑞精细化工有限公司,生物抛光酶CR购于novozymes,柔软剂TF-4865C购于传化智联股份有限公司,柔软剂DT-8500T购于石家庄市联邦科特化工有限公司,渗透剂MRZ购于昂高化工(上海)有限公司,中和酸NA购于上海雅运纺织助剂有限公司。
实施例1
黏胶休闲面料的规格为:MRG-R20*MRG-R20*115*80*57/58,组织:2/2Z;
所述的高效环保型原液着色黏胶休闲面料的加工工艺,包括以下步骤:
(1)冷轧堆:轧余率80%,车速60%,堆布温度33℃,堆布时间24小时,冷轧堆工作液为:退浆酶DS-HT 8g/L,渗透剂WA-M 2g/L;
(2)碱洗:将配制好的工作液加入水洗机轧槽内,液位75%,浸轧原液着色黏胶休闲面料,轧余率60%,在温度为100℃蒸箱内汽蒸15min,再依次经过90℃、70℃、50℃、50℃、30℃水洗槽各洗涤35秒,车速40m/min,烘筒不升温湿落布,碱洗的工作液为:碳酸钠15g/L,渗透剂WA-M 3g/L;
(3)拉幅酶堆:轧余率60%,车速50m/min,烘箱不升温,湿落布,35℃恒温室堆置24小时,拉幅酶堆工作液为:生物抛光酶CR 8g/L,渗透剂MRZ 2g/L;
(4)超柔软:烘箱温度为110℃,轧余率60%,车速20m/min,加入中和酸NA 0.5g/L保持pH为5.5,上风量80%,下风量50%,排风量70%,超柔软工作液为:柔软剂TF-4865C为8g/L,柔软剂DT-8500T为5g/L,渗透剂MRZ为2g/L;
(5)预缩。
实施例2
黏胶休闲面料的规格为:MRG-R40*MRG-R40*150*100*57/58,组织大提花(1/4缎纹+DB);
所述的高效环保型原液着色黏胶休闲面料的加工工艺,包括以下步骤:
(1)冷轧堆:轧余率80%,车速50%,堆布温度33℃,堆布时间26小时,冷轧堆工作液为:退浆酶DS-HT 10g/L,渗透剂WA-M 2g/L;
(2)碱洗:将配制好的工作液加入水洗机轧槽内,液位75%,浸轧原液着色黏胶休闲面料,轧余率60%,在温度为110℃蒸箱内汽蒸15min,再依次经过90℃、70℃、50℃、50℃、30℃水洗槽各洗涤40秒,车速40m/min,烘筒不升温湿落布,碱洗的工作液为:碳酸钠20g/L,渗透剂MRZ 5g/L;
(3)拉幅酶堆:轧余率60%,车速30m/min,烘箱不升温湿落布,35℃恒温室堆置24小时,拉幅酶堆工作液为:生物抛光酶CR 5g/L,渗透剂MRZ 2g/L;
(4)超柔软:烘箱温度为120℃,轧余率60%,加入中和酸NA保持pH为6.5,上风量80%,下风量65%,排风量60%,超柔软工作液为:柔软剂TF-4865C:6g/L,柔软剂DT-8500T:15g/L,渗透剂MRZ 2g/L;
(5)预缩。
实施例3
黏胶休闲面料的规格为:MRG-R40*MRG-R40*150*100*57/58,组织大提花(1/4缎纹+DB);
所述的高效环保型原液着色黏胶休闲面料的加工工艺,包括以下步骤:
(1)冷轧堆:轧余率80%,车速55%,堆布温度35℃,堆布时间20小时,冷轧堆工作液为:退浆酶DS-HT 10g/L,渗透剂WA-M 2g/L;
(2)碱洗:将配制好的工作液加入水洗机轧槽内,液位75%,浸轧原液着色黏胶休闲面料,轧余率60%,在温度为90℃蒸箱内汽蒸20min,再依次经过85℃、75℃、55℃、55℃、35℃水洗槽各洗涤35秒,车速40m/min,烘筒不升温湿落布,碱洗的工作液为:碳酸钠18g/L,渗透剂WA-M 2g/L;
(3)拉幅酶堆:轧余率60%,车速30m/min,烘箱不升温湿落布,30℃恒温室堆置24小时,拉幅酶堆工作液为:生物抛光酶CR 5g/L,渗透剂MRZ 2g/L;
(4)超柔软:烘箱温度为130℃,轧余率60%,加入中和酸NA保持pH为6.0,上风量70%,下风量40%,排风量60%,超柔软工作液为:柔软剂F-4865C:8g/L,柔软剂DT-8500T:8g/L,渗透剂MRZ 2g/L;
(5)预缩。
对比例1
成品规格:MRG-R20*MRG-R20*115*80*57/58,组织:2/2Z;
一种原液着色黏胶休闲面料的加工工艺,包括以下步骤:
烧毛→冷轧堆→退浆→煮炼→湿布烘干→超柔软→预缩;
(1)烧毛:车速80m/min,火焰强度12mbar,切烧;
(2)冷轧堆:车速50m/mim;烧碱:56g/L,双氧水:15g/L,渗透剂:8g/L,精炼剂:8g/L,螯合剂:5g/L,余量为水;冷堆室35度,堆24小时;
(3)退浆:车速40m/mim;退浆酶:5g/L,渗透剂:2g/L,螯合剂:2g/L,精炼剂:3g/L,余量为水;蒸箱温度为100℃,经过蒸箱的时间为20分钟;
(4)煮炼:车速40m/mim;烧碱:45g/L,萃取剂:5g/L,螯合剂:2g/L,精炼剂:3g/L,余量为水;蒸箱温度为100℃,经过蒸箱的时间为25分钟;
(5)湿布烘干:温度150℃,车速50m/min;
(6)超柔软:TF-4865C:8g/L,DT-8500T:5g/L,MRZ:2g/L,NA:0.5g/L,轧余率60%,车速20m/min,温度110℃,上风量80%,下风量50%,排风量70%;
(7)预缩。
将实施例1-3及对比例1对原液着色黏胶休闲面料的加工后,对面料进行性能测试测试,纬向断裂的检测标准为ASTM D5034-2009,起毛起球的检测标准为ASTM D4970-2010,耐摩擦色牢度(干磨/湿磨)的检测标准为AATCC 8-2007,左右色差、前后批色差的检测标准为GB/T 250-2008,性能测试结果如表1所示:
表1实施例1-3及对比例1加工的面料的性能测试结果
当然,上述内容仅为本发明的较佳实施例,不能被认为用于限定对本发明的实施例范围。本发明也并不仅限于上述举例,本技术领域的普通技术人员在本发明的实质范围内所做出的均等变化与改进等,均应归属于本发明的专利涵盖范围内。

Claims (4)

1.一种高效环保型原液着色黏胶休闲面料的加工工艺,其特征在于:将原液着色黏胶织物坯布经过冷轧堆、碱洗、拉幅酶堆、超柔软、预缩;
碱洗的工作液为:碳酸钠15-20g/L,渗透剂2-5g/L;
碱洗的工艺步骤为:将配制好的工作液加入水洗机轧槽内,浸轧原液着色黏胶休闲面料,在蒸箱内汽蒸,再经水洗槽洗涤,烘筒不升温湿落布;
冷轧堆工作液为:退浆酶5-10g/L,渗透剂2-5g/L;冷轧堆工艺条件为:轧余率75-85%,车速55-65%,堆布温度30-35℃,堆布时间20-30小时;
拉幅酶堆工作液为:生物抛光酶5-8g/L,渗透剂1-3g/L;拉幅酶堆工艺条件为:轧余率55-65%,烘箱不升温湿落布,34-40℃恒温室堆置16-24小时;
超柔软工作液为:柔软剂5-11g/L,渗透剂1-2g/L;超柔软工艺条件为:烘箱温度为110-140℃,轧余率55-65%,保持pH为5.5-6.5,上风量70-90%,下风量40-60%,排风量60-80%。
2.根据权利要求1所述的高效环保型原液着色黏胶休闲面料的加工工艺,其特征在于:柔软剂为柔软剂TF-4865C或/和柔软剂DT-8500T。
3.根据权利要求1所述的高效环保型原液着色黏胶休闲面料的加工工艺,其特征在于:渗透剂为渗透剂MRZ或渗透剂WA-M。
4.根据权利要求1所述的高效环保型原液着色黏胶休闲面料的加工工艺,其特征在于:碱洗的工艺步骤为:将配制好的工作液加入水洗机轧槽内,液位70%-75%,浸轧原液着色黏胶休闲面料,轧余率55-65%,在温度为90-110℃蒸箱内汽蒸10-20min,再依次经过85-95℃、65-75℃、45-55℃、45-55℃、25-35℃水洗槽各洗涤35-45秒,烘筒不升温湿落布。
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