CN107072927A - 利用浓缩型调理剂处理毛发的方法 - Google Patents
利用浓缩型调理剂处理毛发的方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN107072927A CN107072927A CN201580032006.XA CN201580032006A CN107072927A CN 107072927 A CN107072927 A CN 107072927A CN 201580032006 A CN201580032006 A CN 201580032006A CN 107072927 A CN107072927 A CN 107072927A
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- care composition
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- hair care
- type hair
- foam
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种处理毛发的方法,所述方法包括在机械泡沫分配器中提供浓缩型毛发护理组合物。浓缩型毛发护理组合物包含一种或多种硅氧烷、约1%至约5%的香料,并且基本上不含高熔点脂肪族化合物。该方法还包括从机械泡沫分配器按泡沫剂量分配浓缩型毛发护理组合物;将所述泡沫施用到所述毛发;以及冲洗所述毛发上的所述泡沫。当从机械泡沫分配器分配时,泡沫具有约0.025g/cm3至约0.3g/cm3的密度。
Description
技术领域
本文描述了一种利用在机械泡沫分配器中提供的浓缩型毛发调理组合物来处理毛发的方法。
背景技术
现今的毛发调理剂几乎普遍包含高含量的高熔点脂肪族化合物,其中最常见的是C16至C18脂肪醇。这些高熔点脂肪族化合物用作结构化试剂,其中它们与一种或多种表面活性剂和含水载体混合以形成凝胶网络。凝胶网络提供粘性和高屈服点流变特性,这有利于从瓶或管分配调理剂以及随后由消费者将产品通过毛发分布和扩散。凝胶网络结构化还使得能够以相稳定的水包油乳液的形式掺入硅氧烷、香料和油。这些硅氧烷和油旨在沉积于毛发上以提供主要毛发调理有益效果,包括湿梳和干梳摩擦降低和毛发整理性等。
然而,现今的凝胶网络毛发调理剂导致在多次循环后高熔点脂肪族化合物过度共沉积在毛发上。另外,在多次循环后所沉积的高熔点脂肪族化合物堆积在毛发上,并且导致显著蜡质的堆积在毛发上并且压低毛发。事实上,大部分消费者对毛发调理剂的抱怨之一是蜡质的残余物,其使毛发看起来油腻或感觉厚重。在技术测试中约10次处理循环后,许多当前的凝胶网络毛发调理剂沉积比硅氧烷或油多至多10倍的高熔点脂肪族化合物(脂肪醇)。尽管不受理论束缚,但这被假设是由于产品中高熔点重量脂肪族化合物的浓度相对于硅氧烷或油的浓度高10倍。重要的是,需要这种高含量的熔点脂肪族化合物(脂肪醇)以产生具有对于消费者可接受的粘度和流变性的足够结构化的储存稳定的凝胶网络。
本文描述了通过解决与凝胶网络调理剂相关的当前缺点而能够实现新产品机会和消费者有益效果的浓缩型毛发护理组合物。已经发现,浓缩的和超低粘度的毛发调理剂组合物可以发泡形式递送到毛发。这些新型浓缩硅氧烷纳米乳液组合物能够从泡沫递送形式中获得足够的剂量,同时还消除对高熔点脂肪族化合物或其它“不溶性”结构剂的需要,高熔点脂肪族化合物或其它“不溶性”结构剂可导致毛发的显著的共沉积、堆积和压低。最终的结果是硅氧烷沉积纯度相对于目前的洗去型产品的阶跃变化改进,以及来自这种纯透明沉积的硅氧烷层的技术性能有益效果的改进。这些有益效果包括多次循环毛发调理而不压低毛发、持久的调理、减少毛发染料褪色、以及增加色彩活力。
纳米乳液技术的发展受到当液滴尺寸被驱动到纳米级时出现的复杂的稳定性和粘度问题的阻碍。对于这种浓缩型产品需要较高含量的香料油,但在存在较高含量的香料油的情况下,这是特别成问题的。因此,本文所述的浓缩型毛发护理组合物还集中于改善的稳定性。
发明内容
本文描述了一种处理毛发的方法,所述方法包括(1)在机械泡沫分配器中提供浓缩型毛发护理组合物,其中浓缩型毛发护理组合物包含(a)按所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物的重量计约3%至约25%的一种或多种硅氧烷,其中该一种或多种硅氧烷的粒度为约1nm至约100nm;以及(b)按所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物的重量计约1%至约5%的香料;其中浓缩型毛发护理组合物基本上不含高熔点脂肪族化合物;其中浓缩型毛发护理组合物具有约1厘泊至约80厘泊的液相粘度;其中浓缩型毛发护理组合物具有约100:0的硅氧烷与高熔点脂肪族化合物比率;并且其中浓缩型毛发护理组合物具有约95:5至约50:50的硅氧烷与香料比率;(2)从机械泡沫分配器按泡沫剂量分配浓缩型毛发护理组合物;(3)将泡沫施用到毛发;以及(4)冲洗毛发上的泡沫;其中当从机械泡沫分配器分配时,泡沫具有约0.025g/cm3至约0.30g/cm3的密度。
本文还描述了包含浓缩型毛发护理组合物的机械泡沫分配器,浓缩型毛发护理组合物包含(1)按所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物的重量计约3%至约25%的一种或多种硅氧烷,其中该一种或多种硅氧烷的粒度为约1nm至约100nm;以及(2)按所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物的重量计约1%至约5%的香料;其中浓缩型毛发护理组合物基本上不含高熔点脂肪族化合物;其中浓缩型毛发护理组合物具有约1厘泊至约80厘泊的液相粘度;其中浓缩型毛发护理组合物具有约100:0的硅氧烷与高熔点脂肪族化合物比率;其中浓缩型毛发护理组合物具有约95:5至约50:50的硅氧烷与香料比率;其中当从机械泡沫分配器分配时,泡沫具有约0.025g/cm3至约0.3g/cm3的密度;并且其中浓缩型毛发护理组合物为洗去型。
附图说明
虽然本说明书以权利要求书作为结束,但是据信结合附图从以下描述中将更好地理解本发明,其中:
图1是利用潘婷深层清洁洗发剂加潘婷水分更新调理剂处理的毛发在10次处理循环后的图像;
图2是利用潘婷深层清洁洗发剂加实施例1调理剂处理的毛发在10次处理循环后的图像;
图3是利用潘婷深层清洁洗发剂加实施例2调理剂处理的毛发在10次处理循环后的图像;
图4是利用潘婷深层清洁洗发剂加实施例3调理剂处理的毛发在10次处理循环后的图像;
图5是利用潘婷深层清洁洗发剂加实施例4调理剂处理的毛发在10次处理循环后的图像;以及
图6是利用潘婷深层清洁洗发剂加实施例5调理剂处理的毛发的图像。
具体实施方式
虽然本说明书以特别指出并清楚地要求保护本发明的权利要求书作为结尾,但据信通过下列说明可更好地理解本发明。
如本文所用,当用于权利要求中时,包括“一个”和“一种”的冠词应被理解为是指一种或多种受权利要求书保护的或所述的物质。
如本文所用,“包括/包含”是指可加入不影响最终结果的其它步骤和其它成分。该术语包括术语“由…组成”和“基本上由…组成”。
如本文所用,“混合物”旨在包括物质的简单组合以及由它们的组合所可能产生的任何化合物。
除非另外指明,如本文所用,术语“分子量”或“M.Wt.”是指重均分子量。
如本文所用,术语“包括”、“包含”和“含有”旨在是非限制性的,并且理解为分别是指“具有”、“具备”和“涵盖”。
如本文所用,术语“浓缩的”是指包含按毛发护理组合物的重量计约5%至约22%的一种或多种硅氧烷的毛发护理组合物。
如本文所用,术语“纳米乳液”是指具有约1nm至约100nm范围内的平均粒度的水包油(o/w)乳液。本文中粒度是指通过动态光散射测量的z-平均值。本文所述的纳米乳液可通过以下方法制备:(1)机械分解乳液液滴尺寸;(2)自发形成乳液(文献中可称为微乳液);以及(3)利用乳液聚合以实现本文所述的目标范围内的平均粒度。
除非另外说明,所有百分比、份数和比率均基于本发明组合物的总重量计。所有涉及所列成分的这些重量均基于活性物质的含量,因此不包括可能包含在可商购获得的物质中的载体或副产物。
除非另外指明,所有组分或组合物含量均是就该组分或组合物的活性部分而言,且不包括可能存在于这些组分或组合物的市售来源中的杂质,例如残余溶剂或副产物。
应当理解,贯穿本说明书给出的每一最大数值限度包括每一更低数值限度,如同此更低数值限度在本文中明确书写。贯穿本说明书给出的每一最大数值限度将包括每一更高数值限度,如同此每一更高数值限度在本文中明确书写。贯穿本说明书给出的每一数值范围将包括落在此较宽数值范围内的每个较窄数值范围,如同此类较窄数值范围在本文中完全明确书写。
毛发护理组合物
本文所述的处理毛发的方法包括在机械泡沫分配器中提供浓缩型毛发护理组合物。浓缩型毛发护理组合物可包含一种或多种硅氧烷和香料。
A.硅氧烷沉积纯度
处理毛发的方法包括从机械泡沫分配器按泡沫剂量分配本文所述的浓缩型毛发护理组合物。在将泡沫施用到毛发并冲洗毛发上的泡沫之后,泡沫可包含约90%至约100%的硅氧烷沉积纯度。
沉积纯度通过每重量毛发沉积的硅氧烷与每重量毛发的其它成分的总沉积的比率来确定。通过提取或煮解毛发,然后用定量元素技术诸如用于总硅的ICP分析并且基于在硅氧烷中按重量计硅的%转化为硅氧烷来测定硅氧烷。总沉积可通过单独沉积测量的总和或通过总沉积的单一包含测量来确定。单独的沉积测量可包括但不限于:脂肪醇、EGDS、季铵化试剂和硅氧烷。通常这些测量涉及提取毛发,然后利用色谱法分离感兴趣的成分并且基于测试溶液浓度利用外部校准进行定量。总沉积的单一包含测量是重量分析。充分提取毛发,并且在蒸发溶剂后通过称量提取物中溶解的残余物来测定残余物。该残余物包含沉积的成分和来自毛发的天然存在的可提取化合物(主要是脂质)两者。天然存在的可提取化合物被量化并且从总量中减去。这些包括:脂肪酸、角鲨烯、胆固醇、神经酰胺、蜡酯、甘油三酯和甾醇酯。定量的方法类似于沉积测量。沉积纯度的其它支持证据可包括毛发表面的光谱或形貌绘图。
B.硅氧烷
浓缩型毛发护理组合物可包含按所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物的重量计约5%至约20%,或者约8%至约18%,或者约10%至约14%的一种或多种硅氧烷。在另一实施方案中,毛发护理组合物可包含按浓缩型毛发护理组合物的重量计约3%至约25%,或者约4%至约20%,或者约5%至约15%,或者约6%至约12%的一种或多种硅氧烷。在一个实施方案中,毛发护理组合物可包含约8%至约15%的一种或多种硅氧烷。一种或多种硅氧烷的粒度可为约1nm至约100nm,或者约5nm至约80nm,或者约10nm至约60nm,或者约12nm至约50nm。在另一实施方案中,一种或多种硅氧烷的粒度可为约1nm至约500nm,或者约5nm至约300nm,或者约8nm至约200nm,或者约10nm至约100nm。
可由动态光散射(DLS)来测定一种或多种硅氧烷的粒度。使用氦氖激光器633nm的Malvern Zetasizer Nano ZEN3600系统(www.malvern.com)可以用于在25℃下测量。
可使用由Malvern Instruments提供的Zetasizer软件对自相关函数进行分析,其使用Stokes-Einstein公式确定有效流体动力学半径:
其中kB是玻尔兹曼常数,T是绝对温度,η是介质的粘度,D是散射物质的平均扩散系数,R是颗粒的流体动力学半径。
如本领域中已知的,可通过将观察到的由于布朗运动产生的斑点图案相关联并且解出使粒度与所测量的扩散常数相关的Stokes-Einstein公式而获得粒度(即流体动力学半径)。
对于每个样品,可进行3次测量,并且可将Z平均值报告为粒度。也可使用其它方法来测量粒度,包括但不限于低温扫描电镜、低温透射电子显微镜和激光衍射方法。
在一个实施方案中,一种或多种硅氧烷可以是纳米乳液的形式。如本文所定义的纳米乳液可以是其中粒度低于100nm的乳液。纳米乳液可包含适于施用到皮肤和/或毛发的任何硅氧烷。在一个实施方案中,约25%至约100%的一种或多种硅氧烷是纳米乳液的形式,在另一实施方案中,约50%至约100%的一种或多种硅氧烷是纳米乳液的形式,并且在另一实施方案中,约75%至约100%的一种或多种硅氧烷是纳米乳液的形式。
在一个实施方案中,一种或多种硅氧烷在其分子结构中可包含极性官能团,诸如Si-OH(存在于聚二甲基硅氧烷醇中)、伯胺、仲胺、叔胺和季铵盐。一种或多种硅氧烷可选自氨基硅氧烷、侧基式季铵硅氧烷、末端季铵硅氧烷、氨基聚环氧烷硅氧烷、季铵聚环氧烷硅氧烷和氨基吗啉代硅氧烷。
一种或多种硅氧烷可包括:
(a)至少一种对应于式(V)的氨基硅氧烷:
R'aG3-a—Si(OSiG2)n—(OSiGbR'2-b)m—O—SiG3-a—R'a (I)
其中:
G选自氢原子、苯基、OH基团和C1-C8烷基,例如甲基,
a是0至3范围内的整数,并且在一个实施方案中,a是0,
b选自0和1,在一个实施方案中b为1,
m和n是使得总和(n+m)可在例如为1至2000,诸如例如50至150的范围内的数,其中n可以是例如选自0至1999,诸如例如49至149的范围内的数,并且其中m可选自例如1至2000,诸如例如1至10的范围内的数;
R'是式-CqH2qL的一价基团,其中q是2至8的数,L是选自以下基团的任选地季铵化的胺基:
—NR"—CH2—CH2—N'(R1)2,
—N(R")2,
—N+(R")3A-,
—N+H(R")2A-,
—N+H2(R")A-,以及
—N(R")—CH2—CH2—N+R"H2A-,
其中R"可选自氢原子、苯基、苄基和饱和的一价烃基基团,诸如例如包含1至20个碳原子的烷基,并且A-选自卤离子诸如例如氟离子、氯离子、溴离子和碘离子。
在一个实施方案中,一种或多种硅氧烷可包括对应于式(1)的那些硅氧烷,其中a=0,G=甲基,m和n是使得总和(n+m)可在例如1至2000,诸如例如50至150的范围内的数,其中n可例如选自0至1999,诸如例如49至149的范围内的数,并且其中m可选自例如1至2000,诸如例如1至10的范围内的数;并且L是-N(CH3)2或-NH2,或者-NH2。
另外,所述至少一种本发明的氨基硅氧烷包括:
(b)式(VII)的侧基式季铵硅氧烷:
其中:
R5选自包含1至18个碳原子的单价烃基基团,例如C1-C18烷基和C2-C18烯基,例如甲基;
R6选自二价烃基基团,诸如二价C1-C18亚烷基和二价C1-C18亚烷基氧基,例如C1-C8亚烷基氧基,其中R6通过SiC键与Si键合;
Q-是阴离子,其可例如选自诸如氯离子之类的卤离子和有机酸盐(例如乙酸根);
r为2至20的范围内的统计平均值,诸如2至8;
s为20至200的范围内的统计平均值,诸如20至50。
这些氨基硅氧烷更具体地描述于美国专利号4,185,087中,其公开内容以引用方式并入本文。
落在该类别内的硅氧烷是由Union Carbide公司以名称“Ucar Silicone ALE 56”出售的硅氧烷。
所述至少一种氨基硅氧烷的另外的示例包括:
c)式(VIIb)的季铵硅氧烷:
其中:
基团R7可相同或不同,各自选自包含1至18个碳原子的单价烃基基团,诸如C1-C18烷基,例如甲基,C2-C18烯基和包含5或6个碳原子的环;
R6选自二价烃基基团,诸如二价C1-C18亚烷基和二价C1-C18亚烷基氧基,例如通过SiC键连接到Si的C1-C8基团;
R8可相同或不同,表示氢原子,包含1至18个碳原子的单价烃基基团,特别是C1-C18烷基,C2-C18烯基或基团-R6-NHCOR7;
X-是阴离子,诸如卤离子,特别是氯离子,或有机酸盐(乙酸根等);
r表示2至200的范围内的平均统计值并且具体地为5至100。
此类硅氧烷描述于例如申请号EP-A-0 530 974中,其公开内容以引用方式并入本文。
落入此类别内的硅氧烷是由Goldschmidt公司以名称Abil Quat 3270,Abil Quat3272和Abil Quat 3474出售的硅氧烷。
所述至少一种氨基硅氧烷的另外的示例包括:
d)季铵和聚环氧烷硅氧烷
其中季氮基团位于聚硅氧烷主链中、在末端或两者。
此类硅氧烷描述于PCT公开号WO 2002/010257中,其公开内容以引用方式并入本文。
落入该类别内的硅氧烷是由Momentive公司以名称Silsoft Q出售的硅氧烷。
(e)具有式(V)的吗啉代基团的氨基官能化硅氧烷:
其中
A表示经由-O-连接的结构单元(I)、(II)或(III)
或经由-O-结合的含有式(I)、(II)或(III)的结构单元或将氧原子连接到结构单元(III)的一半的低聚或聚合残基,或表示-OH,
*代表与结构单元(I)、(II)或(III)之一的键,或代表末端基团B(Si-键合)或D(O-键合)
B代表—OH、—O—Si(CH3)3、—O—Si(CH3)2OH、—O—Si(CH3)2OCH3基团,
D代表—H、—Si(CH3)3、—Si(CH3)2OH、—Si(CH3)2OCH3基团,
a、b和c代表0至1000之间的整数,条件是a+b+c>0,
m、n和o代表1至1000之间的整数。
这种类型的氨基官能的硅氧烷具有INCI名称:氨基封端的聚二甲基硅氧烷/吗啉代甲基倍半硅氧烷共聚物。特别合适的氨基封端的聚二甲基硅氧烷是具有Wacker ADM 8301E商品名的产品。
这种硅氧烷的示例可从以下供应商获得:
由company Dow Corning所提供的:
流体:2-8566,AP 6087,AP 6088,DC 8040流体,流体8822A DC,DC 8803和8813聚合物,7-6030,AP-8104,AP 8201;
乳液CE-8170AF微乳液,2-8177、2-8194微乳液,9224乳液,939、949、959、DC 5-7113季铵微乳液,DC 5-7070乳液,DC CE-8810、CE 8401乳液,CE 1619、Dow Corning ToraySS-3551、Dow Corning Toray SS-3552;由company Wacker所提供的:
Wacker Belsil ADM 652,ADM 656,1100,1600,1650(流体)ADM 6060(线性氨基封端的聚二甲基硅氧烷)乳液;ADM 6057E(支链氨基封端的聚二甲基硅氧烷)乳液;ADM8020VP(微乳液);SLM 28040(微乳液);由Company Momentive所提供的:
Silsoft 331,SF1708,SME 253和254(乳液),SM2125(乳液),SM 2658(乳液),Silsoft Q(乳液)
由company Shin-Etsu所提供的:
KF-889,KF-867S,KF-8004,X-52-2265(乳液);
由Company Siltech Silicones所提供的:
Siltech E-2145,E-Siltech 2145-35;
由company Evonik Industries所提供的:
Abil T Quat 60th
氨基硅氧烷的一些非限制性示例包括具有以下INCI名称的化合物:硅氧烷季铵盐-1,硅氧烷季铵盐-2,硅氧烷季铵盐-3,硅氧烷季铵盐-4,硅氧烷季铵盐-5,硅氧烷季铵盐-6,硅氧烷季铵盐-7,硅氧烷季铵盐-8,硅氧烷季铵盐-9,硅氧烷季铵盐-10,硅氧烷季铵盐-11,硅氧烷季铵盐-12,硅氧烷季铵盐-15,硅氧烷季铵盐-16,硅氧烷季铵盐-17,硅氧烷季铵盐-18,硅氧烷季铵盐-20,硅氧烷季铵盐-21,硅氧烷季铵盐-22,季铵盐-80,以及硅氧烷季铵盐-2泛醇琥珀酸酯和硅氧烷季铵盐-16/缩水甘油基聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物。
在一个实施方案中,氨基硅氧烷可以纳米乳液的形式提供,并且包括MEM 9049、MEM 8177、MEM 0959、MEM 8194、SME 253和Silsoft Q。
在一个实施方案中,一种或多种硅氧烷可包括聚二甲基硅氧烷和/或聚二甲基硅氧烷醇。聚二甲基硅氧烷醇是由化学通式表示的羟基封端的聚二甲基硅氧烷
以及
其中R是烷基(优选地R是甲基或乙基,更优选地甲基),并且x是至多约500的整数,x被选择成获得所需的分子量。市售的聚二甲基硅氧烷醇典型以与聚二甲基硅氧烷或环状聚甲基硅氧烷的混合物出售(例如Dow1401、1402和1403流体)。
C.非离子乳化剂
浓缩型毛发护理组合物可包含按所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物的重量计约3%至约20%,或者约5%至约15%,或者约7.5%至约12%的非离子乳化剂。在一个实施方案中,一种或多种硅氧烷可以包含非离子乳化剂的纳米乳液的形式提供。非离子乳化剂可被广义地定义为包括含有亚烷基氧基团(本质亲水)与本质可为脂族或烷基芳族的疏水性化合物的化合物。非离子乳化剂的示例包括:
1.醇乙氧基化物,其为直链或支链构型的具有约8至约18个碳原子的脂肪醇与约2至约35摩尔环氧乙烷的缩合产物,如椰子醇环氧乙烷缩合物,其中环氧乙烷的含量为每摩尔椰子醇约2至约30摩尔环氧乙烷,椰子醇部分具有约10至约14个碳原子。
2.烷基酚的聚氧化乙烯缩合物,例如直链或支链构型的具有含约6至约20个碳原子的烷基的烷基酚与环氧乙烷的缩合产物,所述环氧乙烷的含量等于每摩尔烷基酚约3至约60摩尔环氧乙烷。
3.衍生自环氧乙烷与产物的缩合反应的那些,所述产物得自环氧丙烷和乙二胺产品的反应。
4.诸如符合以下通式的那些的长链叔胺氧化物:R1R2R3N-->O其中R1包含具有约8至约18个碳原子的烷基、烯基或一羟基烷基基团,0至约10个环氧乙烷部分和0至约1个甘油基部分,并且R2和R3包含约1至约3个碳原子和0至约1个羟基,例如甲基、乙基、丙基、羟乙基、或羟丙基基团(式中的箭头表示半极性键)。
5.符合以下通式的长链叔膦氧化物:RR'R”P-->O其中R包含链长在约8至约18个碳原子范围内的烷基、烯基或一羟基烷基基团,0至约10个环氧乙烷部分和0至约1个甘油基部分,并且R'和R"各自为包含约1至约3个碳原子的烷基或一羟基烷基基团。式中的箭头表示半极性键。
6.长链二烷基亚砜,其包含一个具有约1至约3个碳原子的短链烷基或羟烷基基团(通常为甲基)和一个长疏水性链,该长疏水性链包括包含约8至约20个碳原子的烷基、烯基、羟烷基或酮烷基基团,0至约10个环氧乙烷部分和0至约1个甘油基部分。
7.聚山梨酸酯,例如脂肪酸的蔗糖酯。这种材料描述在美国专利3,480,616中,例如蔗糖椰油酸酯(椰子酸蔗糖酯的混合物,主要由单酯组成,并且来自RITA以商品名GRILLOTEN LSE 87K和来自Croda的以CRODESTA SL-40出售)。
8.烷基多糖非离子乳化剂公开在1986年1月21日授予Llenado的美国专利4,565,647中,其具有含约6至约30个碳原子,优选地约10至约16个碳原子的疏水性基团和多糖,例如聚葡糖苷、亲水性基团。多糖可包含约1.0至约10个、优选地约1.3至约3个、最优选地约1.3至约2.7个糖单元。任何包含5或6个碳原子的还原糖类都可使用,例如葡萄糖、半乳糖和半乳糖基部分可代替葡糖基部分。(任选地,该疏水性基团连接在2-、3-、4-等位上,因此在葡萄糖或半乳糖上的与在葡糖苷或半乳糖苷上的是相反的。)糖内键可位于例如附加糖单元的一个位置与前述糖单元的2-、3-、4-和/或6-位之间。任选地,可存在连接疏水性部分和多糖部分的聚环氧烷链。烷基优选地含有至多约3个羟基和/或聚环氧烷链可含有至多约10个,优选地少于5个亚烷基部分。合适的烷基多糖是辛基,壬基癸基,十一烷基十二烷基,十三烷基,十四烷基,十五烷基,十六烷基,十七烷基和十八烷基,二-、三-、四-、五-和六葡糖苷,半乳糖苷,乳糖苷,葡萄糖,果糖苷,果糖和/半乳糖。
9.如式RC(O)OCH2CH(OH)CH2(OCH2CH2)n OH所示的聚乙二醇(PEG)甘油基脂肪酸酯,其中n为约5至约200,优选地约20至约100,更优选地约30至约85,并且RC(O)-是酯,其中R包括具有约7至19个碳原子,优选地约9至17个碳原子,更优选地约11至17个碳原子,最优选地约11至14个碳原子的脂族基团。在一个实施方案中,为了使对起泡的不利影响最小化,利用C12-C18或者C12-C15脂肪酸酯,n的组合可为约20至约100。
在一个实施方案中,非离子乳化剂可为硅氧烷乳化剂。许多种硅氧烷乳化剂可用于本文。这些硅氧烷乳化剂通常为有机改性的硅氧烷,还被本领域技术人员称为硅氧烷表面活性剂。有用的硅氧烷乳化剂包括聚二甲基硅氧烷共聚多元醇。这些物质是进行过改性以包含聚醚侧链的聚二甲基硅氧烷,该聚醚侧链如聚环氧乙烷链、聚环氧丙烷链、这些链的混合物,和含有衍生自环氧乙烷与环氧丙烷两者的部分的聚醚链。其它示例包括烷基改性的聚二甲基硅氧烷共聚多元醇,即含有C2-C30侧基式侧链的化合物。其它有用的聚二甲基硅氧烷共聚多元醇还包括具有各种阳离子、阴离子、两性和两性离子侧基式部分的物质。
在一个实施方案中,非离子乳化剂可具有约16至约20个碳原子的烃链长度和约20至约25摩尔的乙氧基化物。
在一个实施方案中,非离子乳化剂可具有约19至约11个碳原子,或者约9至约11个碳原子的烃链长度和约2至约4摩尔的乙氧基化物。
在一个实施方案中,非离子乳化剂可包含如下物质的组合:(a)具有如下烃链的非离子乳化剂,该烃链为支链、具有约11至约15个碳原子的长度,并且具有约5至约9摩尔的乙氧基化物;和(b)具有如下烃链的非离子乳化剂,该烃链具有约11至约13个碳原子的长度并且具有约9至约12摩尔乙氧基化物。
在本发明中使用的纳米乳液可通过两种不同的方法来制备:(1)机械法,以及(2)乳液聚合。
制备纳米乳液的第一种方法是机械法,其中纳米乳液通过以下步骤制备:(1)将主表面活性剂溶解在水中,(2)加入硅氧烷,并且形成两相混合物,(3)通过简单混合,将辅助表面活性剂缓慢加入到两相混合物中,直到形成明显的各向同性微乳液的水包硅氧烷。
制备纳米乳液的第二种方法是通过乳液聚合聚合物前体,即在水中不混溶的单体或反应性低聚物;在水中稳定聚合物前体小滴的表面活性剂;和水溶性聚合催化剂。通常,催化剂是强无机酸诸如盐酸,或强碱性催化剂诸如氢氧化钠。将这些组分加入到水中,搅拌混合物,并且使聚合反应进行直到反应完成,或达到所需的聚合度(DP),并且形成聚合物的乳液。
在一个实施方案中,在制剂中的非离子乳化剂具有16-20的烃链长度和20-25乙氧基化物摩尔数。
在一个实施方案中,非离子乳化剂的烃链长度和乙氧基化物摩尔数分别是9-11和2-4。
在一个实施方案中,非离子乳化剂体系由以下组成:a)具有支化构型的5-9乙氧基化物摩尔数的C11-15,b)具有C11-13烃链长度和9-12摩尔乙氧基化物的线性非离子乳化剂。
D.香料
浓缩型毛发护理组合物可包含按所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物的重量计约1%至约5%,或者约1.5%至约4.5%,并且或者约2%至约4%的香料。
在一个实施方案中,浓缩型毛发护理组合物可具有约95:5至约50:50,90:10至60:40,85:15至70:30的硅氧烷与香料比率。
适宜的香料的示例可提供于由CFTA Publications公布的CTFA(Cosmetic,Toiletry and Fragrance Association)1992International Buyers Guide和由SchnellPublishing Co.公布的OPD 1993Chemicals Buyers Directory 80th Annual Edition中。在浓缩型毛发护理组合物中可存在多种香料组分。
E.高熔点脂肪族化合物
浓缩型毛发护理组合物可基本上不含高熔点脂肪族化合物,或者浓缩型毛发护理组合物可包含按所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物的重量计0%的高熔点脂肪族化合物。浓缩型毛发护理组合物可具有约100:0的硅氧烷与高熔点脂肪族化合物比率。
高熔点脂肪族化合物具有约25℃或更高的熔点,并且选自脂肪醇、脂肪酸、脂肪醇衍生物、脂肪酸衍生物、以及它们的混合物。本领域的技术人员应当理解,在说明书的这一部分中公开的化合物在某些情况下可能属于一个以上的类别,例如一些脂肪醇衍生物还可归类为脂肪酸衍生物。然而,给出的分类并不旨在对特定化合物进行限制,而是为了便于分类和命名。此外,本领域的技术人员应该理解根据双键的数目和位置以及支链的长度和位置,具有某些所需碳原子的某些化合物可具有低于约25℃的熔点。具有低熔点的此类化合物不旨在包括在本部分内。高熔点化合物的非限制性示例可见于“InternationalCosmetic Ingredient Dictionary”,第五版,1993和“CTFA Cosmetic IngredientHandbook”,第二版,1992中。
本文所述的脂肪醇是具有约14至约30个碳原子,优选地约16至约22个碳原子的那些。这些脂肪醇是饱和的并且可为直链醇或支链醇。脂肪醇的非限制性示例包括鲸蜡醇、硬脂醇、二十二醇、以及它们的混合物。
本文所用的脂肪酸是具有约10至约30个碳原子,优选约12至约22个碳原子,并且更优选约16至约22个碳原子的那些。这些脂肪酸是饱和的,并可以是直链酸或支链酸。还包含二元酸、三元酸和满足本文要求的其它多元酸。本文还包括这些脂肪酸的盐。脂肪酸的非限制性示例包括月桂酸、棕榈酸、硬脂酸、二十二烷酸、癸二酸以及它们的混合物。
可用于本文的脂肪醇衍生物和脂肪酸衍生物包括脂肪醇的烷基醚、烷氧基化脂肪醇、烷氧基化脂肪醇的烷基醚、脂肪醇酯、具有可酯化羟基的化合物的脂肪酸酯、羟基取代的脂肪酸、以及它们的混合物。脂肪醇衍生物和脂肪酸衍生物的非限制性示例包括以下物质,诸如甲基硬脂基醚、鲸蜡基聚氧乙烯醚系列化合物,诸如鲸蜡基聚氧乙烯醚-1至鲸蜡基聚氧乙烯醚-45,它们是鲸蜡醇的乙二醇醚,其中数字标号表示所存在的乙二醇部分的数量;硬脂基聚氧乙烯醚系列化合物,诸如硬脂基聚氧乙烯醚-1至硬脂基聚氧乙烯醚-10,它们是硬脂醇的乙二醇醚,其中数字标号表示所存在的乙二醇部分的数量;鲸蜡硬脂基聚氧乙烯醚1至鲸蜡硬脂基聚氧乙烯醚-10,它们是鲸蜡硬脂醇的乙二醇醚,(即,主要包含鲸蜡醇和硬脂醇的脂肪醇混合物,其中数字标号表示所存在的乙二醇部分的数量);如刚刚所描述的鲸蜡基聚氧乙烯醚、硬脂基聚氧乙烯醚和鲸蜡硬脂基聚氧乙烯醚化合物的C16-C30烷基醚、二十二醇的聚氧乙烯醚、硬脂酸乙酯、硬脂酸鲸蜡酯、棕榈酸鲸蜡酯、硬脂酸十八烷基酯、肉豆蔻酸十四烷基酯、聚氧乙烯鲸蜡基醚硬脂酸酯、聚氧乙烯硬脂基醚硬脂酸酯、聚氧乙烯月桂基醚硬脂酸酯、乙二醇一硬脂酸酯、聚氧乙烯一硬脂酸酯、聚氧乙烯二硬脂酸酯、丙二醇一硬脂酸酯、丙二醇二硬脂酸酯、三羟甲基丙烷二硬脂酸酯、脱水山梨糖醇硬脂酸酯、聚甘油基硬脂酸酯、甘油基一硬脂酸酯、甘油基二硬脂酸酯、甘油基三硬脂酸酯、以及它们的混合物。
在一个实施方案中,脂肪族化合物可为具有高纯度的单一高熔点化合物。所选的单一纯脂肪醇化合物可选自纯鲸蜡醇、硬脂醇和二十二醇。本文所谓“纯的”意思是化合物具有至少约90%,或者至少约95%的纯度。
本文所述的可商购获得的高熔点脂肪族化合物包括:以商品名KONOL系列购自Shin-Nihon Rika(Osaka,Japan)和以商品名NAA系列购自NOF(Tokyo,Japan)的鲸蜡醇、硬脂醇和二十二醇;以商品名1-DOCOSANOL购自WAKO(Osaka,Japan)的纯二十二醇,以商品名NEO-FAT购自Akzo(Chicago Illinois,USA)、以商品名HYSTRENE购自Witco Corp.(Dublin,Ohio USA)和以商品名DERMA购自Vevy(Genova,Italy)的各种脂肪酸。
F.阳离子表面活性剂
在一个实施方案中,浓缩型毛发护理组合物可包含按所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物的重量计0%,或者约0.25%至约5%,或者约0.5%至约4%,或者约1%至约3%的阳离子表面活性剂。
阳离子表面活性剂可为单长链烷基季铵盐,其具有下式(XIII)[来自WO2013148778]:
其中R71、R72、R73和R74中的一者选自具有约14至约30个碳原子的脂族基团或具有至多约30个碳原子的芳族、烷氧基、聚亚烷基氧、烷基酰胺基、羟烷基、芳基或烷基芳基;R71、R72、R73和R74中的其余基团独立地选自具有约1至约8个碳原子的脂族基团,或具有至多约8个碳原子的芳族、烷氧基、聚亚烷基氧、烷基酰胺基、羟烷基、芳基或烷基芳基;并且X为成盐阴离子,诸如选自卤离子(例如氯离子、溴离子)、乙酸根、柠檬酸根、乳酸根、乙醇酸根、磷酸根、硝酸根、磺酸根、硫酸根、烷基硫酸根、谷氨酸根和烷基磺酸根的那些。除了碳原子和氢原子以外,脂族基团还可包含醚键和其它基团诸如氨基。更长链的脂族基团,例如具有约16个或更多个碳原子的那些可为饱和或不饱和的。优选地,R71、R72、R73和R74之一选自具有约14至约30个碳原子、更优选地约16至约22个碳原子、还更优选地约16至约18个碳原子的烷基基团;R71、R72、R73和R74中的其余基团独立地选自CH3、C2H5、C2H4OH、CH2C5H5以及它们的混合物;并且(X)选自Cl、Br、CH3OSO3以及它们的混合物。据信,这些单长烷基季铵化铵盐可提供改善的湿发光滑和平滑感。
此类单长链烷基季铵化的铵盐阳离子表面活性剂的非限制性示例包括:二十二烷基三甲基氯化铵,例如以商品名Genamine KDMP得自Clariant,以商品名INCROQUAT TMC-80得自Croda以及以商品名ECONOL TM22得自Sanyo Kasei;硬脂基三甲基氯化铵,例如以商品名CA-2450得自Nikko Chemicals;鲸蜡基三甲基氯化铵,例如以商品名CA-2350得自NikkoChemicals;二十二烷基三甲基甲酯硫酸铵,得自FeiXiang;氢化牛油烷基三甲基氯化铵、硬脂基二甲基苄基氯化铵和硬脂酰酰胺丙基二甲基苄基氯化铵。
其中,更优选的阳离子表面活性剂是具有较短烷基基团,即C16烷基基团的那些。这些阳离子表面活性剂包括例如鲸蜡基三甲基氯化铵。据信具有较短烷基基团的阳离子表面活性剂对于包含阳离子表面活性剂的本发明的浓缩型毛发护理硅氧烷纳米乳液组合物是有利的并且具有改进的储存稳定性。
G.水混溶性溶剂
本文所述的浓缩型毛发护理组合物可包含按所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物的重量计约0.01%至约25%,或者约0.01%至约20%,或者约0.01%至约15%的水混溶性溶剂。在一个实施方案中,本文所述的浓缩型毛发护理组合物可包含按所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物的重量计0%的水混溶性溶剂。适宜水混溶性溶剂的非限制性示例包括多元醇、共聚多元醇、多元羧酸、聚酯和醇类。
可用的多元醇的示例包括但不限于甘油、二甘油、丙二醇、乙二醇、丁二醇、戊二醇、1,3-丁二醇、环己烷二甲醇、己二醇、聚乙二醇(200-600)、糖醇,如山梨醇、甘露醇、乳糖醇和其它一和多元的低分子量醇(如,C2-C8醇);一、二和低聚糖类,诸如果糖、葡萄糖、蔗糖、麦芽糖、乳糖以及高级果糖玉米糖浆固体和抗坏血酸。
多元羧酸的示例包括但不限于,柠檬酸、马来酸、琥珀酸、聚丙烯酸和聚马来酸。
适宜聚酯的示例包括但不限于,三乙酸甘油酯、乙酰化单甘油酯、邻苯二甲酸二乙酯、柠檬酸三乙酯、柠檬酸三丁酯、柠檬酸乙酰基三乙酯、柠檬酸乙酰基三丁酯。
适宜聚二甲基硅氧烷共聚多元醇的示例包括但不限于,PEG-12聚二甲基硅氧烷、PEG/PPG-18/18聚二甲基硅氧烷、和PPG-12聚二甲基硅氧烷。
合适的醇类的示例包括但不限于乙醇、正丙醇、异丙醇、正丁醇、仲丁醇、叔丁醇、正己醇和环己醇。
其它适宜的水混溶性溶剂包括但不限于邻苯二甲酸烷基酯和邻苯二甲酸烯丙基酯;萘二甲酸酯;乳酸盐(例如钠盐、铵盐和钾盐);脱水山梨糖醇聚氧乙烯醚-30;脲;乳酸;吡咯烷酮羧酸钠(PCA);透明质酸钠或透明质酸;可溶性胶原;改性蛋白;L-谷氨酸单钠;α和β羟基酸,如乙醇酸、乳酸、柠檬酸、马来酸和水杨酸;聚甲基丙烯酸甘油酯;聚合物增塑剂,如聚季铵盐;蛋白质和氨基酸,如谷氨酸、天冬氨酸和赖氨酸;氢淀粉水解产物;其它低分子量酯(例如C2-C10醇和酸的酯);以及食品和塑料工业领域技术人员已知的任何其它水溶性增塑剂;以及它们的混合物。
在一个实施方案中,水混溶性溶剂可选自甘油、丙二醇、双丙二醇、以及它们的混合物。EP 0283165B1公开了其它适宜的水混溶性溶剂,包括甘油衍生物,如丙氧基化甘油。
H.粘度调节剂
本文所述的浓缩型毛发护理组合物可包含按所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物的重量计约0.001%至约2%,或者约0.001%至约1%,并且或者约0.001%至约0.5%的粘度调节剂。在一个实施方案中,本文所述的浓缩型毛发护理组合物可包含按所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物的重量计0%的粘度调节剂。适宜的粘度调节剂的非限制性示例包括水溶性聚合物、阳离子水溶性聚合物,
水溶性聚合物的示例包括但不限于(1)植物基聚合物,诸如阿拉伯树胶,黄蓍胶,半乳聚糖,瓜尔胶,角豆胶,刺梧桐树胶,角叉菜胶,果胶,琼脂,温柏树籽,藻胶体,淀粉(水稻、玉米、马铃薯或小麦)和甘草酸;(2)基于微生物的聚合物,诸如黄原胶,葡聚糖,琥珀酰葡聚糖和支链淀粉;和(3)基于动物的聚合物,例如胶原,酪蛋白,白蛋白和明胶。半合成水溶性聚合物的示例包括(1)淀粉基聚合物,诸如羧甲基淀粉和甲基羟丙基淀粉;(2)纤维素基聚合物,诸如甲基纤维素,硝化纤维素,乙基纤维素,甲基羟丙基纤维素,羟乙基纤维素,纤维素硫酸钠,羟丙基纤维素,羧甲基纤维素钠(CMC),结晶纤维素和纤维素粉末;和(3)基于藻酸盐的聚合物,诸如藻酸钠和藻酸丙二醇酯。合成水溶性聚合物的示例包括(1)基于乙烯基的聚合物,诸如聚乙烯醇,聚乙烯基甲基醚基聚合物,聚乙烯吡咯烷酮和羧基乙烯基聚合物(CARBOPOL 940,CARBOPOL 941);(2)聚氧乙烯基聚合物,诸如聚乙二醇20,000,聚乙二醇6,000和聚乙二醇4,000;(3)基于共聚物的聚合物,诸如聚氧乙烯和聚氧丙烯的共聚物和PEG/PPG甲基醚;(4)丙烯酰基聚合物,诸如聚(丙烯酸钠),聚(丙烯酸乙酯),聚丙烯酰胺,聚乙烯亚胺和阳离子聚合物。水溶胀性粘土矿物是非离子水溶性聚合物,并且相当于一种具有三层结构的含胶体的硅酸铝。更具体地,作为它们的示例,可提及膨润土,蒙脱石,贝得石,囊脱石,滑石粉,锂蒙脱石,硅酸铝镁和硅酸酐。
阳离子水溶性聚合物的示例包括但不限于(1)季氮改性的多糖,诸如阳离子改性的纤维素,阳离子改性的羟乙基纤维素,阳离子改性的瓜尔胶,阳离子改性的刺槐豆胶和阳离子改性的淀粉;(2)二甲基二烯丙基氯化铵衍生物,诸如二甲基二烯丙基氯化铵和丙烯酰胺的共聚物,和聚(二甲基亚甲基哌啶鎓氯化物);(3)乙烯吡咯烷酮衍生物,诸如乙烯基吡咯烷酮和二甲基氨基乙基甲基丙烯酸的共聚物的盐,乙烯基吡咯烷酮和甲基丙烯酰胺丙基三甲基氯化铵的共聚物,和乙烯基吡咯烷酮和甲基乙烯基咪唑鎓氯化物的共聚物;和(4)甲基丙烯酸衍生物;诸如甲基丙烯酰基乙基二甲基甜菜碱、甲基丙烯酰基乙基三甲基氯化铵和甲基丙烯酸2-羟基乙酯的共聚物,甲基丙烯酰基乙基二甲基甜菜碱和甲基丙烯酰基乙基三甲基氯化铵和甲氧基聚乙二醇甲基丙烯酸酯的共聚物。
I.粘度
本文所述的浓缩型毛发护理组合物可具有约1厘泊至约80厘泊,或者约3厘泊至约60厘泊,或者约5厘泊至约45厘泊并且或者约10厘泊至约40厘泊的液相粘度。在一个实施方案中,本文所述的浓缩型毛发护理组合物可具有约1厘泊至约150厘泊,或者约2厘泊至约100厘泊,或者约3厘泊至约60厘泊,或者约5厘泊至约45厘泊,并且或者约10厘泊至约40厘泊的液相粘度。
粘度值可使用任何合适的流变仪或粘度计在25.0℃下和约2S-1的剪切速率下测量。本文报道的粘度值使用具有同心圆柱体附接件(具有30.41mm直径的杯;具有27.98mm的直径和42.02mm的长度的锤,和同心圆环夹套组件)的TA Instruments AR-G2流变仪在25℃下在2S-1的剪切速率下进行测量。
J.任选成分
本文所述的浓缩型毛发护理组合物可任选地包含一种或多种已知用于毛发护理或个人护理产品的附加组分,前提条件是该附加组分与本文所述基本组分物理和化学地相容,或不会以其它方式不适当地损害产品的稳定性、美观性或性能。上述任选成分最典型地为那些被认可用于化妆品中并描述于参考书如“CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook”第二版(The Cosmetic,Toiletries,and Fragrance Association,Inc.1988,1992)中的材料。按所述调理组合物的重量计,此类附加组分的各个浓度可在约0.001重量%至约10重量%的范围内。
适于作为本文任选成分的乳化剂包括甘油一酯和甘油二酯、脂肪醇、聚甘油酯、丙二醇酯、脱水山梨糖醇酯、以及已知的或常用于稳定空气界面的其它乳化剂,例如在充气食品如糕饼和其它烤焙物以及蜜饯产品制备期间或在稳定化妆品如毛发摩丝期间使用的那些。
此类任选成分的另外的非限制性示例包括防腐剂、香料或芳香剂、阳离子聚合物、粘度调节剂、着色剂或染料、调理剂、毛发漂白剂、增稠剂、保湿剂、泡沫促进剂、附加表面活性剂或非离子助表面活性剂、润肤剂、药物活性物质、维生素或营养物质、防晒剂、除臭剂、感觉剂、植物提取物、营养物质、收敛剂、化妆品颗粒、吸收剂颗粒、粘合剂颗粒、毛发固定剂、纤维、反应剂、亮肤剂、皮肤美黑剂、去头皮屑剂、香料、剥脱剂、酸、碱、湿润剂、酶、悬浮剂、pH调节剂、毛发着色剂、毛发烫发剂、颜料颗粒、抗痤疮剂、抗微生物剂、防晒剂、美黑剂、剥脱颗粒、毛发生长剂或恢复剂、驱虫剂、剃须洗剂、非挥发性溶剂或稀释剂(水溶性和水不溶性)、共溶剂或其它附加溶剂、以及类似的其它材料。
K.机械泡沫分配器
本文所述的机械泡沫分配器可选自挤压式泡沫分配器、泵送式泡沫分配器、其它机械泡沫分配器以及它们的组合。在一个实施方案中,机械泡沫分配器是挤压式泡沫分配器。合适的泵送式分配器的非限制性示例包括在WO 2004/078903、WO 2004/078901和WO2005/078063中描述的那些,并且可由Albea(60Electric Ave.,Thomaston,CT 06787USA)或Rieke Packaging Systems(500West Seventh St.,Auburn,Indiana 46706)提供。
机械泡沫分配器可包括用于保持浓缩型毛发处理组合物的贮存器。贮存器可由选自塑料、金属、合金、层合体及它们的组合的任何合适的材料制得。贮存器可以是可再填充的贮存器,诸如注入型或螺口型贮存器,或者贮存器可以是一次性使用的。贮存器还可从机械泡沫分配器中可去除。另选地,贮存器可与机械泡沫分配器整合。在一个实施方案中,可存在两个或更多个贮存器。
在一个实施方案中,贮存器可由选自刚性材料、柔性材料及它们的组合的材料组成。当对贮存器施加内部部分真空时,如果其在外部大气压力下不垮塌,则贮存器可由刚性材料构成。
浓缩型毛发护理组合物可以泡沫的形式进行分配,其中泡沫具有约0.025g/cm3至约0.30g/cm3,或者约0.035g/cm3至约0.25g/cm3,或者约0.045g/cm3至约0.20g/cm3,并且或者约0.055g/cm3至约0.15g/cm3的密度。
浓缩型毛发护理组合物以约1g至约8g,或者约1g至约7g,或者约1g至约6g,并且或者约1g至约5g的剂量重量分配。剂量可通过如上所述的机械发泡的任何方式以离散或连续发泡形式来实现。在泵送或挤压发泡剂的情况下,剂量可以约1至约10次泵送或挤压,或者约1至约7次泵送或挤压,或者约1至约5次泵送或挤压,并且或者约1至约3次泵送或挤压来实现。连续机械发泡剂还可包括与单独的电源(例如电池或电源插座)的连接。
L.水
本文所述的浓缩型毛发护理组合物可包含约60%至约90%的水,或者约65%至约87.5%,或者约67.5%至约85%,或者约70%至约82.5%,或者约72.5%至约80%的水。
处理毛发的方法
本文所述的处理毛发的方法包括(1)在机械泡沫分配器中提供如本文所述的浓缩型毛发护理组合物,(2)从机械泡沫分配器按泡沫剂量分配浓缩型毛发护理组合物;(3)将泡沫施用到毛发;以及(4)冲洗毛发上的泡沫。
实施例和数据
以下实施例和数据示出了本文所述的浓缩型毛发护理组合物。示例性的组合物可通过常规制剂和混合技术来制备。应当理解,在不背离本发明的实质和范围的情况下,洗发剂制剂领域内的技术人员可对本发明进行其它的修改。除非另外指明,本文中所有份数、百分数和比率均按重量计。一些组分可作为稀释溶液来自供应商。除非另外指明,所示量反映了活性物质的重量百分比。
以下包括本文所述的浓缩型毛发护理组合物的非限制性实施例。
通过将硅氧烷乳液与其它组合物混合直至均匀来制备表1和表2的组合物。然后在技术性能评价之前将制剂平衡至少一天。所有制剂具有低粘度(小于50厘泊),并且能够通过如可购自诸如Rexham的供应商的标准泵送发泡喷嘴来机械地发泡。以下组合物基于活性物质计。
表1
1 可购自Momentive的Silsoft 253(20%活性)
2 可购自Momentive的Silsoft Q(20%活性)
3 可购自Dow Corning的MEM 8194(26%活性)
将每种表1调理剂对天然棕色毛发发簇处理作为使用潘婷Pro-V净化洗发剂的方案的一部分至多10次处理循环。作为对照方案,将潘婷Pro-V净化洗发剂与潘婷抗断裂调理剂混合。已知后者具有2.5%的氨基硅氧烷含量和5.20%的总高熔点脂肪族化合物(鲸蜡醇和硬脂醇)含量,油与高熔点脂肪族化合物的重量比为32.5:67.5。在表2中给出了调理剂中油与高熔点脂肪族化合物的重量比的比较。
表2
对在洗发剂+调理剂方案的循环1和10的湿梳和干梳数据进行收集。在10次方案处理循环后拍摄毛发发簇的图像以评估毛发体积。为了确定调理的持久性,然后将发簇用潘婷深层清洁洗发剂单独洗发至多10次循环,并且仅对洗发剂在第1、2、5和10次循环的湿梳和干梳数据进行收集。
多循环洗发剂加调理剂处理:
1.在具有淋浴头固定装置(流速为1.5加仑每分钟)的水槽(用胶水/胶带粘在根端并且悬挂在金属支架上)中对六束4克,8英寸天然棕色发簇用100华氏度的水润湿15至20秒。
2.通过注射器以每克毛发0.1克产品施用液体洗发剂(例如,潘婷Pro-V净化洗发剂),并且挤压/洗涤30秒,随后进行30秒的淋浴头冲洗(在发簇顶部轻轻操作以确保均匀冲洗)。使用刮刀以每克毛发0.05克产品施用浓缩型液体泡沫洗发剂(泡沫分散在称量舟皿中并且以记录的重量施用)并且按照相同的施用程序。
3.通过注射器以每克毛发0.1克产品(以重量刻度称重)将液体调理剂(例如潘婷水分更新调理剂等)均匀地施用在发簇上并挤压/洗涤30秒,随后进行30秒淋浴冲洗(在发簇顶部轻轻操作,以确保均匀冲洗)。用刮刀以每克毛发0.033克产品施用浓缩型液体泡沫调理剂(泡沫以分配在称量舟皿中并以记录的重量施用)并且按照相同的施用程序。
4.然后将毛发在设定为60℃的热箱中干燥45分钟或直到大部分干燥,然后开始下一次处理循环或完成处理循环。
对于多次循环测试,将上述过程重复设定的次数。例如,对于六个循环测试,上述步骤1-4重复六次。
天然毛发湿梳,干梳和毛发体积数据(指定数目的处理循环后):
经由利用DSLR相机成像对毛发发簇的毛发体积进行评估(在湿梳和干梳之前)
通过包含12个个体的感觉评审小组对6个处理循环后的发绺的湿梳和干梳进行评价。
湿梳测试(在最后处理循环的当天):
在最后一次处理循环后,将处理过的发绺封装在铝箔中并成组标记。在评审期间,将每个小组的发绺悬挂在金属棒上,并且每个发簇与专业梳子上的宽间隔齿分开。然后,专门小组成员使用专业梳子的“小端”(使用戴手套的手来稳定发簇,同时在需要时进行梳理)评估发簇的湿梳的容易性,并以所提供的评价形式(0-10标度)记录得分。在对所有5组毛发(每个毛发组2个专门小组成员)已经梳理之后,在CT室(50%RH,70℉)中将毛发悬挂在手推车上。
干梳测试(湿梳测试后的至少一天):
将来自每个处理组的干燥的发簇置于在金属棒上并排悬挂的单独的金属保持器中。专门小组成员使用专业梳子的“小端”评价发簇的干梳的容易程度,并以所提供的评价形式(0-10标度;每个毛发组2个专门小组成员)记录得分。
湿梳数据
干梳数据
湿梳数据,干梳数据和图1-6表明,包含本文所述的浓缩型毛发护理组合物的泡沫调理剂的方案提供了甚至在10个方案处理循环后的均优异的湿梳和干梳以及优异的毛发体积。此外,可看出,包含氨基硅氧烷(实施例1和4)的本文所述的浓缩型毛发护理组合物表现出显著的持久调理,甚至仅在10次洗发循环后仍具有持久的梳理有益效果。尽管不受理论束缚,但是假设持久调理有益效果是由于沉积的非常高的纯度(由于相对于液体调理剂32.5:67.5的油与脂肪醇比率,本文所述的浓缩型毛发护理组合物中100:0的更高的油与脂肪醇比率,不存在高熔点脂肪族化合物和它们的共沉积)。
实施例6:
1 可购自Momentrive的Silsoft 253
2 可购自Aldrich
制备方法
将蒸馏水加入到玻璃烧杯或罐中。然后加入氨基硅氧烷、鲸蜡基三甲基氯化铵和香料。使用塔顶式搅拌器在150-200rpm下将混合物混合15分钟直至均匀。使混合物静置过夜。
实施例7:
1 可购自Momentrive的Silsoft 253
2 可购自Air Products&Chemicals的Tomodol 1-3
制备方法
将蒸馏水加入到玻璃烧杯或罐中。然后加入氨基硅氧烷、C11乙氧基化醇和香料。使用塔顶式搅拌器在150-200rpm下将混合物混合15分钟直至均匀。使混合物静置过夜。
实施例8:
1 可购自Momentrive的Silsoft 253
2 可购自Aldrich的Ceteareth-25
制备方法
首先在单独的玻璃广口瓶中制备乙氧基化醇的储备溶液(在蒸馏水中为10%)搅拌约1.5小时。然后通过将蒸馏水、氨基硅氧烷、乙氧基化醇储备溶液和香料加入烧杯中并用塔顶式搅拌器在150-200rpm下搅拌15分钟直至均匀来制备配方使混合物静置过夜。
实施例9:
1 可购自Momentrive的Silsoft 253
2 可购自Sasol的Novel 16-20
制备方法
首先在单独的玻璃广口瓶中制备乙氧基化醇的储备溶液(在蒸馏水中为10%)搅拌约1.5小时。然后通过将蒸馏水、氨基硅氧烷、乙氧基化醇储备溶液和香料加入烧杯中并用塔顶式搅拌器在150-200rpm下搅拌15分钟直至均匀来制备配方。使混合物静置过夜。
实施例10:
1 可购自Momentrive的Silsoft 253
2 可购自Sasol的Novel 18-20
制备方法
首先在单独的玻璃广口瓶中制备乙氧基化醇的储备溶液(在蒸馏水中为10%)搅拌约1.5小时。然后通过将蒸馏水、氨基硅氧烷、乙氧基化醇储备溶液和香料加入烧杯中并用塔顶式搅拌器在150-200rpm下搅拌15分钟直至均匀来制备配方。使混合物静置过夜。
实施例11:
1 可购自Dow Corning的CE-8170AF
2 可购自Aldrich
制备方法
将蒸馏水加入到玻璃烧杯或罐中。然后加入氨基硅氧烷、鲸蜡基三甲基氯化铵和香料。使用塔顶式搅拌器在150-200rpm下将混合物混合15分钟直至均匀。使混合物静置过夜。
本文所公开的量纲和值不应理解为严格限于所引用的精确数值。相反,除非另外指明,否则每个这样的量纲旨在表示所述值以及围绕该值功能上等同的范围。例如,公开为“40mm”的量纲旨在表示“约40mm”。
除非明确地排除或换句话讲有所限制,本文中引用的每一篇文献,包括任何交叉引用或相关专利或专利申请以及本申请对其要求优先权或其有益效果的任何专利申请或专利,均据此全文以引用方式并入本文。任何文献的引用不是对其作为与本发明任何公开或本文受权利要求书保护的现有技术的认可,或不是对其自身或与任何其它参考文献或多个参考文献的组合提出、建议或公开了此发明任何方面的认可。此外,当本发明中术语的任何含义或定义与以引用方式并入的文件中相同术语的任何含义或定义矛盾时,应当服从在本发明中赋予该术语的含义或定义。
虽然已经举例说明和描述了本发明的具体实施方案,但是对于本领域技术人员来说显而易见的是,在不脱离本发明实质和范围的情况下可做出多个其它改变和变型。因此,本文旨在于所附权利要求中涵盖属于本发明范围内的所有这些改变和变型。
Claims (15)
1.一种处理毛发的方法,所述方法包括:
a.在机械泡沫分配器中提供浓缩型毛发护理组合物,其中所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物包含:
i.按所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物的重量计5%至20%的一种或多种硅氧烷,其中所述一种或多种硅氧烷的粒度为1nm至100nm;以及
ii.按所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物的重量计1%至5%的香料,其中所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物基本上不含高熔点脂肪族化合物;
其中所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物具有1厘泊至80厘泊的液相粘度;
其中所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物具有100:0的硅氧烷与高熔点脂肪族化合物比率;并且
其中所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物具有95:5至50:50的硅氧烷与香料比率;
b.从所述机械泡沫分配器按泡沫剂量分配所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物;
c.将所述泡沫施用到所述毛发;以及
d.冲洗所述毛发上的所述泡沫;
其中当从所述机械泡沫分配器分配时,所述泡沫具有0.05g/cm3至0.2g/cm3的密度。
2.根据权利要求1所述的方法,其中在将所述泡沫施用到所述毛发并冲洗所述毛发上的所述泡沫之后,所述泡沫包含90%至100%的硅氧烷沉积纯度。
3.根据权利要求1或2所述的方法,其中所述一种或多种硅氧烷是纳米乳液的形式。
4.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的方法,其中所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物包含按所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物的重量计8%至18%的一种或多种硅氧烷。
5.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的方法,其中所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物包含按所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物的重量计10%至14%的一种或多种硅氧烷。
6.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的方法,其中所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物包含按所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物的重量计0%的高熔点脂肪族化合物。
7.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的方法,其中所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物包含按所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物的重量计1.5%至4.5%的香料。
8.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的方法,其中所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物包含按所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物的重量计2%至4%的香料。
9.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的方法,其中当从所述机械泡沫分配器分配时,所述泡沫具有1g至5g的剂量重量。
10.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的方法,其中所述泡沫的密度为0.075g/cm3至0.175g/cm3。
11.一种包含浓缩型毛发护理组合物的机械泡沫分配器,所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物包含:
a.按所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物的重量计5%至20%的一种或多种硅氧烷,其中所述一种或多种硅氧烷的粒度为1nm至100nm;以及
b.按所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物的重量计1%至5%的香料;
其中所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物基本上不含高熔点脂肪族化合物;
其中所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物具有1厘泊至80厘泊的液相粘度;
其中所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物具有100:0的硅氧烷与高熔点脂肪族化合物比率;
其中所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物具有95:5至50:50的硅氧烷与香料比率;
其中当从所述机械泡沫分配器分配时,所述泡沫具有0.05g/cm3至0.2g/cm3的密度;并且
其中所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物是洗去型的。
12.根据权利要求11所述的机械泡沫分配器,其中在将所述泡沫施用到所述毛发并冲洗所述毛发上的所述泡沫之后,所述泡沫包含90%至100%的硅氧烷沉积纯度。
13.根据权利要求11或12所述的机械泡沫分配器,其中所述一种或多种硅氧烷是纳米乳液的形式。
14.根据权利要求11、12或13所述的机械泡沫分配器,其中所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物包含按所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物的重量计8%至18%的一种或多种硅氧烷。
15.根据权利要求11、12、13或14所述的机械泡沫分配器,其中所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物包含按所述浓缩型毛发护理组合物的重量计10%至14%的一种或多种硅氧烷。
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MX371218B (es) | 2015-12-15 | 2020-01-08 | Procter & Gamble | Método para tratar el cabello. |
US10124951B2 (en) | 2015-12-15 | 2018-11-13 | The Procter And Gamble Company | Method of treating hair |
US10265251B2 (en) | 2015-12-15 | 2019-04-23 | The Procter And Gamble Company | Method of treating hair |
US10265255B2 (en) | 2015-12-15 | 2019-04-23 | The Procter And Gamble Company | Method of treating hair |
US10322072B2 (en) | 2015-12-15 | 2019-06-18 | The Procter And Gamble Company | Method of treating hair |
WO2017106404A1 (en) | 2015-12-15 | 2017-06-22 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Method of treating hair |
US10294013B2 (en) | 2015-12-21 | 2019-05-21 | The Procter And Gamble Plaza | Package to dispense a foaming composition |
EP3445327A1 (en) | 2016-04-22 | 2019-02-27 | The Procter and Gamble Company | Method of forming a silicone layer |
CN109069401A (zh) | 2016-04-22 | 2018-12-21 | 宝洁公司 | 形成硅氧烷层的方法 |
MX2018012706A (es) | 2016-04-22 | 2019-01-30 | Procter & Gamble | Metodo para formar una capa de silicona. |
-
2015
- 2015-06-15 MX MX2016016217A patent/MX2016016217A/es unknown
- 2015-06-15 CA CA2950929A patent/CA2950929A1/en not_active Abandoned
- 2015-06-15 WO PCT/US2015/035756 patent/WO2015195512A2/en active Application Filing
- 2015-06-15 CN CN201580032006.XA patent/CN107072927A/zh active Pending
- 2015-06-15 BR BR112016029264A patent/BR112016029264A2/pt not_active Application Discontinuation
- 2015-06-15 US US14/739,670 patent/US10123963B2/en active Active
- 2015-06-15 EP EP15795043.7A patent/EP3154511B1/en active Active
- 2015-06-15 JP JP2016572757A patent/JP2017519011A/ja active Pending
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US20040048996A1 (en) * | 2000-07-27 | 2004-03-11 | Horst Lange | Polymmonium-polysiloxane compounds, methods for the production and use thereof |
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EP3154511A2 (en) | 2017-04-19 |
MX2016016217A (es) | 2017-02-23 |
WO2015195512A3 (en) | 2016-03-03 |
US20150359726A1 (en) | 2015-12-17 |
EP3154511B1 (en) | 2020-01-29 |
BR112016029264A2 (pt) | 2017-08-22 |
CA2950929A1 (en) | 2015-12-23 |
US10123963B2 (en) | 2018-11-13 |
JP2017519011A (ja) | 2017-07-13 |
WO2015195512A2 (en) | 2015-12-23 |
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