CN106222911A - 一种改善真丝欧根纱的柔软性和抗皱性的生产方法 - Google Patents
一种改善真丝欧根纱的柔软性和抗皱性的生产方法 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明属于真丝欧根纱生产领域,尤其是涉及一种改善真丝欧根纱的柔软性和抗皱性的生产方法。所述生产方法依次包括以下步骤:(1)坯绸织造、(2)过水柔软整理、(3)拉幅定型、(4)蒸呢和(5)验装。本发明所提供的改善真丝欧根纱的柔软性和抗皱性的生产方法通过坯绸织造中生丝加捻、过水柔软整理和蒸呢工艺相耦合的方式,在不改变织物组织结构的情况下,通过生丝加捻和过水柔软整理提高了面料的柔软性,通过蒸呢改变了经纬线交织的微观结构相,使得面料更趋于细腻平整且柔软性更高,经冷却后丝胶之间的粘连作用改善了抗劈裂性能,尺寸的稳定性更好。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于真丝欧根纱生产领域,尤其是涉及一种改善真丝欧根纱的柔软性和抗皱性的生产方法。
背景技术
近年来,真丝欧根纱受到越来越多品牌女装的青睐,市场需求增加,但真丝欧根纱柔软性和抗皱性较差,很多生产厂家都在研究改善方法,通常的做法有水洗、砂洗、熟丝交织、减姆米数和锦纶交织等,但这些做法要么造身面料成本起皱,改变风格,要么增加复杂程度和成本,要么抗劈裂性能下降,效果均不理想。在控制成本的同时,改善真丝欧根纱的柔软性和抗皱性,具有非常高的实用价值。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种柔软性和抗皱性效果好的真丝欧根纱的生产方法。
本发明的上述目的是通过以下技术方案得以实现的:
一种改善真丝欧根纱的柔软性和抗皱性的生产方法,所述生产方法依次包括以下步骤:
(1)坯绸织造:通过生丝加捻得到加捻的经线和/或加捻的纬线;
(2)过水柔软整理:采用氟化钾和抗静电剂配制成混合溶液并对面料进行浸轧,混合溶液的温度控制在40℃以下,pH控制为4~6,控制面料过轧后的带液率为60~120%;
(3)拉幅定型;
(4)蒸呢:拉幅定型后的面料在饱和热蒸汽作用下使得生丝丝胶膨胀软化,经冷却,丝胶再次固化使得丝与丝之间粘连;
(5)验装。
本发明的优点是:
1. 本发明所提供的改善真丝欧根纱的柔软性和抗皱性的生产方法通过坯绸织造中生丝加捻的方式提高了面料自身物理属性中的柔软性,通过过水柔软整理中面料浸渍在柔软剂的混合溶液中提高了面料的柔软特性,再通过蒸呢工艺使得面料表层少量丝胶熔融,在压力的作用下向面料所在平面挤压,改变了经线和纬线之间的微观结构相,从而更趋向于平整,降低了面料的立体性,增强面料的平面性,从而改善面料的柔软性和抗皱性;通过生丝加捻、过水柔软整理和蒸呢三者耦合的方式,在不改变织物组织结构的情况下,通过生丝加捻和过水柔软整理提高了面料的柔软性,通过蒸呢改变了经纬线交织的微观结构相,使得面料更趋于细腻平整且柔软性更高,经冷却后丝胶之间的粘连作用改善了抗劈裂性能,尺寸的稳定性更好;
2. 本发明所提供的改善真丝欧根纱的柔软性和抗皱性的生产方法使得在此方法下生产的真丝欧根纱柔软性和抗皱性得到明显的改善,实用性和舒适性更佳,利于服用。
优选地,所述步骤(1)坯绸织造中经线为1/20/22D 生丝 140 T/10 cmZ,纬线为1/20/22D 生丝 140 T/10 cmZ,组织采用平纹组织。
优选地,所述步骤(2)过水柔软整理中:混合溶液中氟化钾的质量分数为3%,抗静电剂SN的质量分数为0.5%。
优选地,所述步骤(3)拉幅定型中:在拉幅机上进行拉幅整理,拉幅阔度不超过1%,确保无皱印,拉幅机速度为10 m/min,常温落布,布面的含潮率为11%。
优选地,所述步骤(4)蒸呢具体为:定型过的面料在蒸呢机上蒸呢,温度控制为100~110℃,采用600~800 kpa的饱和蒸汽,时间控制为8~10 min,包布的初始张力为340 N,末尾张力为880 N,且不加压辊。蚕丝是由两部分构成,外围蚕丝胶原蛋白所构成的部分,称为丝胶;内芯由胶质蛋白构成的部分成为丝素。丝胶对包裹在其内部的丝素起着保护和粘接的作用。蒸呢使生丝丝胶膨胀软化,外层少量丝胶熔融,在压力的作用下向面料所在平面挤压,同时使经纬丝的结构相发生变化,更趋向于平整,利用表层丝胶的溶失和改变面料结构相的方式来改善其柔软性和抗皱性。生丝是桑蚕茧缫丝后所得的产品。俗称真丝,机缫的又叫厂丝,手工缫的叫土丝。生丝脱胶后称熟丝。参照图1,经纬线的结构相过高(或过低),经纱(或纬纱)弯曲大,形成经(或纬)支持面结构,经纬线的机械物理性能差异大,面料手感会变硬。蒸呢后,面料组织结构相从单相紧密结构更趋向于双向紧密结构,即面料更趋向于等支持面结构,其织物是最薄的状态,经纬纱的屈曲程度相当且屈曲程度较小,织物经纬纱能力相当,物理机械性能差异小,织物断裂伸长较小,耐平磨性较好。
优选地,所述步骤(5)验装中:成品姆米为5 m/m。
附图说明
图1为本发明所提供的蒸呢过程中面料结构相变化的示意图。
具体实施方式
(1)坯绸织造
工艺流程依次为经纬线的选择、捻度的选择、坯绸的经纬密度和组织的选择。
经线选定为1/20/22D厂丝140T/10 cmZ,上机门幅142 cm,内经7756根,上机经密:55根/cm,筘穿入:2。
纬线选定为1/20/22D厂丝140T/10cmZ,上机纬密:40根/cm,组织采用平纹组织。
(2)过水柔软整理
采用浓度为KF 3%和SN 0.5%混合液浸轧,40℃以下、PH值4-6、带液率60%-120%。
(3)拉幅定型
在拉幅机上进行拉幅整理,拉幅阔幅度不超过1%,确保无皱印,拉幅机速度为10m/min,常温落布,布面含潮率11%。
(4)蒸呢
定型过的面料在BISIO蒸呢机上蒸呢,温度100~110℃,采用600~800kPa的饱和蒸汽,时间控制在8~10分钟,包布初始张力340 N,末尾张力880 N,不加压辊,通过饱和热蒸汽使生丝丝胶膨胀软化,表层少量丝胶溶失,在压力的作用下向面料所在平面挤压,同时使经纬丝的结构相发生变化,更趋向于平整,冷却后,丝胶再次固化使丝与丝之间粘连。
(5)验装
检验绸面质量,然后将合格成品包装,成品姆米:5m/m,成品柔软不失筋骨,抗皱性好。
本具体实施例仅仅是对本发明的解释,其并不是对本发明的限制,本领域技术人员在阅读完本说明书后可以根据需要对本实施例做出没有创造性贡献的修改,但只要在本发明的权利要求范围内都受到专利法的保护。
Claims (6)
1.一种改善真丝欧根纱的柔软性和抗皱性的生产方法,其特征在于,所述生产方法依次包括以下步骤:
(1)坯绸织造:通过生丝加捻得到加捻的经线和/或加捻的纬线;
(2)过水柔软整理:采用氟化钾和抗静电剂配制成混合溶液并对面料进行浸轧,混合溶液的温度控制在40℃以下,pH控制为4~6,控制面料过轧后的带液率为60~120%;
(3)拉幅定型;
(4)蒸呢:拉幅定型后的面料在饱和热蒸汽作用下使得生丝丝胶膨胀软化,经冷却,丝胶再次固化使得丝与丝之间粘连;
(5)验装。
2.根据权利要求1中所述的改善真丝欧根纱的柔软性和抗皱性的生产方法,其特征在于,所述步骤(1)坯绸织造中经线为1/20/22D 生丝 140 T/10 cmZ,纬线为1/20/22D 生丝140 T/10 cmZ,组织采用平纹组织。
3.根据权利要求1中所述的改善真丝欧根纱的柔软性和抗皱性的生产方法,其特征在于,所述步骤(2)过水柔软整理中:氟化钾和抗静电剂的混合溶液为含有3%氟化钾和0.5%抗静电剂SN的混合溶液。
4.根据权利要求1中所述的改善真丝欧根纱的柔软性和抗皱性的生产方法,其特征在于,所述步骤(3)拉幅定型中:在拉幅机上进行拉幅整理,拉幅阔度不超过1%,确保无皱印,拉幅机速度为10 m/min,常温落布,布面的含潮率为11%。
5.根据权利要求1中所述的改善真丝欧根纱的柔软性和抗皱性的生产方法,其特征在于,所述步骤(4)蒸呢具体为:定型过的面料在蒸呢机上蒸呢,温度控制为100~110℃,采用600~800 kpa的饱和蒸汽,时间控制为8~10 min,包布的初始张力为340 N,末尾张力为880N,且不加压辊。
6.根据权利要求1中所述的改善真丝欧根纱的柔软性和抗皱性的生产方法,其特征在于,所述步骤(5)验装中:成品姆米为5 m/m。
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