CN107447338A - 一种多组份舒适亲肤呢及其生产工艺 - Google Patents

一种多组份舒适亲肤呢及其生产工艺 Download PDF

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CN107447338A
CN107447338A CN201710869404.8A CN201710869404A CN107447338A CN 107447338 A CN107447338 A CN 107447338A CN 201710869404 A CN201710869404 A CN 201710869404A CN 107447338 A CN107447338 A CN 107447338A
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fibre
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skin
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刘伟
姜爱娟
孙召云
陈敏
高为顺
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Jiangsu Jianlu Worsted Co Ltd
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    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
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    • D03D13/008Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
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    • D03WEAVING
    • D03DWOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
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    • D10B2401/061Load-responsive characteristics elastic

Abstract

本发明公开了一种多组份舒适亲肤呢及其生产工艺,该舒适亲肤呢由以下原料配比制得:丝光羊毛纤维 50%,仪纶纤维 35%,吸湿排汗纤维 14%,导电纤维 1%;该舒适亲肤呢的生产工艺,包括如下步骤:(1)染色工序;(2)纺纱工序;(3)织造工序;(4)后整理工序。本发明生产出的面料具有良好的吸湿排汗、亲肤、有弹性、抗静电性能,采用丝光羊毛纤维、仪纶纤维、吸湿排汗纤维、导电纤维相结合,让面料集多种功能于一体。

Description

一种多组份舒适亲肤呢及其生产工艺
技术领域
[0001] 本发明属于纺织面料技术领域,特别涉及一种多组份舒适亲肤呢及其生产工艺。
背景技术
[0002] 近年来,随着人们生活水平的提高,人们乐忠于享受生活,他们偶尔camping、偶尔 旅行、偶尔健身、偶尔shopping,随着人们户外活动的增加,人们对于面料的要求既要有舒 适感,又要有服装不粘贴衣服而产生的冷湿感。因此,吸湿排汗纺织品大受广大消费者的青 睐。
发明内容
[0003] 本发明的目的是为了提供一种多组份舒适亲肤呢,通过丝光羊毛/仪纶/吸湿排汗 纤维/导电纤维使用,赋予面料以舒适亲肤、弹性、抗起球、吸湿排汗和抗静电能力,是制作 夏季着装的首选用料。
[0004] 为了实现本发明的目的,采用的技术方案是: 一种多组份舒适亲肤呢,由以下原料配比制得:丝光羊毛纤维50%,仪纶纤维35%,吸 湿排汗纤维14%,导电纤维1%。
[0005] 进一步,所述丝光羊毛纤维的细度为18.5μπι,长度为80mm,仪纶纤维的细度为 1.5D,长度为88mm,吸湿排汗纤维的细度为2D,长度为75mm,导电纤维的细度为3D,长度为 65mm〇
[0006] 如上所述的一种多组份舒适亲肤呢的生产工艺,包括如下步骤: (1) 染色工序 丝光羊毛纤维采用进口亨斯迈环保型兰纳素活性染料,常温20°C,起染升至80°C,保温 60min,起染时,升温速度要慢1°C/1.5min,从毛条制成球开始,通过走进口空心成球机,减 少染色松球时因张力不匀造成的上色不匀,提高毛条色光的纯正度,复洗时选用RT专用助 剂,达到纤维顺直、平滑、光泽充足,抱合好,便于后道开台; 吸湿排汗纤维条在染色前做碱处理去除纤维表面本身的油剂,碱处理工艺= NaOH用量 为I 〇g/L,处理温度在85度,时间为40min; (2) 纺纱工序 在复精梳过程中,各道采取28mm小隔距,9倍小牵伸,复精梳保证毛网顺直,清晰,回潮 率按20%偏大控制,增加纤维抱合力度,减少飞花,提高条干均匀度,选用亲水型的IP抗静电 和史蒂芬逊SDF毛油,不破坏纤维的吸湿效果,在纺纱过程中经炜纱均走紧密纺,捻系数偏 小选择,单纱86,股线135,让线纱蓬松有足够空隙,有利于面料吸湿放湿; (3) 织造工序 整经时确保纱线通道顺畅,片纱张力均匀,防止布面产生自吊,倒轴时不使用液态蜡, 液态蜡采取纱线倒纱后使用,片纱张力要均匀,织机织造时同样采取小张力280N、+1.5cm高 后梁控制,提高开口清晰度,引炜顺畅,织机上机工艺:上机经炜密:317*278根/10cm,上机 门幅150cm,筘号144#,织物组织单面斜纹; (4)后整理工序 工艺流程:平洗连煮—烘定—中检—烧毛—高洗—开幅—双煮—吸水—烘干—中检— 熟修—中检—蒸刷—剪毛—给湿—KD罐蒸—未水整理—中检—给湿—KDiSg蒸—成品。
[0007] 本发明具有的有益效果: 1、本发明生产出的面料具有良好的吸湿排汗、亲肤、有弹性、抗静电性能,采用丝光羊 毛纤维、仪纶纤维、吸湿排汗纤维、导电纤维相结合,让面料集多种功能于一体。
[0008] 2、本发明的丝光羊毛纤维使得面料具有柔滑的手感,亲肤性较好,由于丝光羊毛 经过剥鳞处理不仅手感顺滑,且避免了洗涤后表面鳞片收缩毡化的特点,达到可机洗的要 求,为人们有带来一份便利;吸湿排汗纤维和仪纶纤维,不仅提高人体穿着的舒适度,还起 到吸湿排汗的效果,是多种高档面料的首选用料。
具体实施方式
[0009] 下面结合实施例对本发明作进一步描述,但本发明的保护范围不仅仅局限于实施 例。
[0010] 本发明选用原料的参数如下:
Figure CN107447338AD00041
如上所述的一种多组份舒适亲肤呢的生产工艺,包括如下步骤: (1)染色工序 丝光羊毛纤维采用进口亨斯迈环保型兰纳素活性染料,由于丝光毛是经过剥鳞处理, 表面光滑上色较快,因此采用常温20°C,起染升至80°C,保温60min,起染时,升温速度要慢1 °C/1.5min,为保证上色均匀,保护纤维不受损伤,便于后道生产,从毛条制成球开始,通过 走进口空心成球机,减少染色松球时因张力不匀造成的上色不匀,提高毛条色光的纯正度。 复洗时选用丝光毛专用整理剂(RT专用助剂),达到纤维顺直、平滑、光泽充足,抱合好,便于 后道开台。
[0011] 吸湿排汗纤维条在染色前做碱处理去除纤维表面本身的油剂,碱处理工艺:NaOH 用量为l〇g/L,处理温度在85度,时间为40min,不能损失纤维强力,以满足纺纱要求。
[0012] (2)纺纱工序 在复精梳过程中,由于丝光羊毛,条子较滑,抱合不好而导电纤维长度较短,经过拉伸 后容易卷曲,形成毛粘,为减少纤维的损失便于梳理,各道采取28mm小隔距,9倍小牵伸,复 精梳保证毛网顺直,清晰。回潮率按20%偏大控制,增加纤维抱合力度,减少飞花,提高条干 均匀度,选用亲水型的IP抗静电和史蒂芬逊SDF毛油,不破坏纤维的吸湿效果。在纺纱过程 中经炜纱均走紧密纺,捻系数偏小选择,单纱86,股线135,让线纱蓬松有足够空隙,有利于 面料吸湿放湿。
[0013] (3)织造工序 整经时确保纱线通道顺畅,片纱张力均匀,防止布面产生自吊。倒轴时不能使用液态 蜡,否则会影响吸湿排汗纤维的吸湿排汗效果,因此采取纱线倒纱后使用,片纱张力要均匀 的同时,使得纱线不会受到意外张力影响布面质量。织机织造时同样采取小张力280N、+ 1.5cm高后梁控制,提高开□清晰度,引炜顺畅,让呢面纹路清晰细腻,还布质量良好。织机 上机工艺:上机经炜密:317*278根/I Ocm,上机门幅150cm,筘号144#,织物组织单面斜纹。
[0014] (4)后整理工序 工艺流程:平洗连煮—烘定—中检—烧毛—高洗—开幅—双煮—吸水—烘干—中检— 熟修—中检—蒸刷—剪毛—给湿—KDiSg蒸—未水整理—中检—给湿—KDiSg蒸—成品, 此面料主要突出的是面料具有吸湿排汗、抗静电性能,丝光羊毛、仪纶、吸湿排汗纤维、 导电纤维的结合,让面料集多种功能与一体,在生产中不可使用含硅油类助剂,亲水整理要 在罐蒸以后进行,成品前的罐蒸工艺宜轻一些,这样避免亲水整理后产生的边中差。
[0015] 对制得的面料根据国家标准GB/T 26382-2011进行检测,检测结果如下: a、 抗起毛起球:4-5级; b、 各项色牢度:4级以上; c、 缩水:经向:1.0%,炜向:0.8%; d、 滴水扩散时间:初始1秒,洗15次:2秒,5秒瞬间吸湿; e、 抑困率多99%; f、 电荷面密度:初始:0.5,50次水洗后:1.2。
[0016]最后应说明的是:以上实施例仅用以说明本发明而并非限制本发明所描述的技术 方案;因此,尽管本说明书参照上述的各个实施例对本发明已进行了详细的说明,但是,本 领域的普通技术人员应当理解,仍然可以对本发明进行修改或等同替换;而一切不脱离本 发明的精神和范围的技术方案及其改进,其均应涵盖在本发明的权利要求范围中。

Claims (3)

1. 一种多组份舒适亲肤呢,其特征在于,由以下原料配比制得:丝光羊毛纤维50%,仪 纶纤维35%,吸湿排汗纤维14%,导电纤维1 %。
2. 根据权利要求1所述的一种多组份舒适亲肤呢,其特征在于,所述丝光羊毛纤维的细 度为18.5μηι,长度为80mm,仪给纤维的细度为1.5D,长度为88mm,吸湿排汗纤维的细度为2D, 长度为75mm,导电纤维的细度为3D,长度为65mm。
3. 根据权利要求1或2所述的一种多组份舒适亲肤呢的生产工艺,其特征在于,包括如 下步骤: (1)染色工序 丝光羊毛纤维采用进口亨斯迈环保型兰纳素活性染料,常温20°C,起染升至80°C,保温 60min,起染时,升温速度要慢1°C/1.5min,从毛条制成球开始,通过走进口空心成球机,减 少染色松球时因张力不匀造成的上色不匀,提高毛条色光的纯正度,复洗时选用RT专用助 剂,达到纤维顺直、平滑、光泽充足,抱合好,便于后道开台; 吸湿排汗纤维条在染色前做碱处理去除纤维表面本身的油剂,碱处理工艺= NaOH用量 为I 〇g/L,处理温度在85度,时间为40min; ⑵纺纱工序 在复精梳过程中,各道采取28mm小隔距,9倍小牵伸,复精梳保证毛网顺直,清晰,回潮 率按20%偏大控制,增加纤维抱合力度,减少飞花,提高条干均匀度,选用亲水型的IP抗静 电和史蒂芬逊SDF毛油,不破坏纤维的吸湿效果,在纺纱过程中经炜纱均走紧密纺,捻系数 偏小选择,单纱86,股线135,让线纱蓬松有足够空隙,有利于面料吸湿放湿; ⑶织造工序 整经时确保纱线通道顺畅,片纱张力均匀,防止布面产生自吊,倒轴时不使用液态蜡, 液态蜡采取纱线倒纱后使用,片纱张力要均匀,织机织造时同样采取小张力280N、+1.5cm高 后梁控制,提高开口清晰度,引炜顺畅,织机上机工艺:上机经炜密:317*278根/10cm,上机 门幅150cm,筘号144#,织物组织单面斜纹; ⑷后整理工序 工艺流程:平洗连煮—烘定—中检—烧毛—高洗—开幅—双煮—吸水—烘干—中检— 熟修—中检—蒸刷—剪毛—给湿—KDiSg蒸—未水整理—中检—给湿—KDiSg蒸—成品。
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CN109162005A (zh) * 2018-09-17 2019-01-08 江苏箭鹿毛纺股份有限公司 毛涤吸湿速干薄花呢及其制备方法

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