CN104278396B - 用于家纺的真丝-羊毛交织提花面料及其制备方法 - Google Patents

用于家纺的真丝-羊毛交织提花面料及其制备方法 Download PDF

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CN104278396B
CN104278396B CN201310275275.1A CN201310275275A CN104278396B CN 104278396 B CN104278396 B CN 104278396B CN 201310275275 A CN201310275275 A CN 201310275275A CN 104278396 B CN104278396 B CN 104278396B
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CN104278396A (zh
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仝晓婷
陈红霞
陆鹏
丁可敬
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Jiangsu Goldsun Textile Science and Technology Co Ltd
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Abstract

本发明公开了一种用于家纺的真丝‑羊毛交织提花面料及其制备方法，该面料坯布的经纱为真丝纤维纺制出的真丝纱线，纬纱为防缩整理后的超细防缩羊毛按照紧密纺纱工艺纺制出的羊毛纱线，所述真丝纱线与羊毛纱线按照提花组织结构交织形成真丝‑羊毛提花面料。由此可知：本发明所述面料具有光泽柔和、不起皱、良好的抗起毛起球性、不易勾丝、打理方便、外观高贵典雅的优点。

Description

用于家纺的真丝-羊毛交织提花面料及其制备方法
技术领域
本法明涉及一种用于家纺真丝-羊毛交织提花面料及其制备方法，属于家用纺织品面料领域。
背景技术
家用纺织品特别是床上用品面料要求良好的亲肤性能，天然舒适度，优异的抗起毛起球性能、断裂强力大、织物缩水率低、耐水洗等要求。真丝面料由于其良好的吸湿放湿性能、优异的保温性能、生物相容性、亲肤养颜且面料的光泽高雅、手感丝滑柔糯，因此深受消费者的喜爱。但真丝面料的抗皱性能差，面料易起皱，真丝纤维是纤细的长丝，面料在摩擦过程中会出现勾丝问题，娇气的真丝面料致使面料难打理，生产加工困难。羊毛面料的吸湿性能较好、手感丰满而富有弹性，保温性能好，但羊毛纤维的断裂强度较低，面料的断裂强力较低，羊毛面料在热湿条件和机械作用下会发生缩绒，且大部分羊毛制品存在刺痒感，抗起毛球球性能差，导致羊毛纤维制品很难在床上用品中推广。如何利用好桑蚕丝和羊毛的优异性能，解决目前存在的问题，开发出符合床品要求的面料，值得研究和探讨。
发明内容
本发明针对现有技术不足，提供一种用于家纺的真丝-羊毛交织提花面料。该提花面料经纱采用吸湿优良、柔软丝滑、光泽优雅的真丝长丝，纬纱采用经过防缩整理的超细羊毛纤维制成的紧密纺纱线。将所述两种纱线经提花组织工艺织造而成的面料，具有光泽柔和、不起皱、良好的抗起毛起球性、不易勾丝、打理方便、外观高贵典雅的优点。
为实现以上技术目的，本发明采取以下技术方案：
一种用于家纺的真丝-羊毛交织提花面料，该面料坯布的经纱为真丝纤维纺制出的真丝纱线，纬纱为防缩整理后的超细防缩羊毛按照紧密纺纱工艺纺制出的羊毛纱线，所述真丝纱线与羊毛纱线按照提花组织结构交织形成真丝-羊毛提花面料。
作为上述方案的进一步限定，所述超细防缩羊毛平均细度15微米~20微米，细度离散率18%-20%，平均长度70mm-90mm，长度离散率28%-30%。
作为上述方案的进一步限定，所述真丝纱线规格为2/20/22D或者3/20/22D，羊毛纱线规格为40公支~60公支。
本发明的另一技术目的是提供一种上述用于家纺的真丝-羊毛交织提花面料的制备方法，包括以下步骤：首先，将超细防缩羊毛进行防缩整理，接着，将防缩整理后的超细防缩羊毛按照紧密纺纱工艺纺制成羊毛纱线，然后，分别将真丝纱线、羊毛纱线进行染整处理，其中，真丝纱线的染整工艺为绞纱染色工艺，羊毛纱线的染整工艺为筒纱染色工艺；最后，将经过染整处理后的真丝纱线作为经纱、羊毛纱线作为纬纱按照提花组织结构交织形成真丝-羊毛提花面料坯布，再经过后整理工艺，即可获得成品面料。
进一步地，所述超细防缩羊毛的防缩整理工艺路线：开毛→洗毛→过氧化氢处理→水洗→酸处理→水洗→壳聚糖处理→烘干；过氧化氢处理工序中，处理液包括浓度为2-3g/L的H2O2、浓度为0.5-1g/L的硅酸钠，过氧化氢处理工序的工艺参数为：浴比1:20-1:30、温度30-40℃，时间20-30min；酸处理工序中，处理液包括醋酸、亚硫酸氢钠，且醋酸、亚硫酸氢钠的o.w.f值分别为0.5-1.5%、1-2%，酸处理工序的工艺参数为：温度35-40℃，时间15-20min；壳聚糖处理工序中，处理液包括浓度为3-4g/L的壳聚糖、浓度为1-2g/L醋酸，壳聚糖处理工序的工艺参数为：浴比1:20-1:30，时间50-60min；烘干工序中，温度50℃-60℃。
进一步地，所述紧密纺纱工艺的路线：毛条→混条→精梳→针梳→粗纱→细纱；混条工序中，混条的定量22-28g/m，混合根数10-14根，牵伸倍数8-9，速度180-200m/min；精梳工序中，车速为180-200m/min；针梳工序，共五道，每道针梳工序的牵伸倍数均为8-9，一道至四道的针梳速度180-200m/min，五道针梳速度220m/min-240m/min；粗纱工序的牵伸倍数10-12，出条速度120-140m/min；细纱工序的牵伸倍数18-20，摇架压力加压范围介于2×105-3×105Pa之间，紧密纺纱负压3000-3500Pa，牵伸倍数17-19，钢丝圈转速12000-13000r/min，纱线捻度1000-1300捻/米。
进一步地，所述筒纱染色工艺中，采用酸性染料对羊毛纱线进行染色，染液中，还包含有元明粉、硫酸，且元明粉、硫酸的o.w.f 值分别为：5%～10%、2%～4%，染液pH值2-4，浴比1：20～1：30；染液温度达到 30℃～50℃时始染羊毛纱线，接着以2-3℃/min速率升温至70℃，在70℃下保温15-20min，然后以1-2℃/min速率升温至沸，再沸染45-60min之后，排出染液，进入水洗工序。
进一步地，所述绞纱染色工艺中，采用含双活性染料质量份数为1%-2%的染液进行染色，且该染液中还包括浓度为45-55g/L的元明粉、浓度为2-3g/L的小苏打、浓度为25g/L的盐，另外，按照10ml/ kg真丝纱线的配比添加稳定剂；染色温度70-75℃。
进一步地，所述后整理工艺路线：洗呢→水洗→煮呢→热水洗→冷水洗→柔软烘干；洗呢工序中，首先采用40℃温水走两道，然后配制洗呢处理液，该洗呢处理液中，含有净洗剂、去油剂、分散剂，且净洗剂、去油剂、分散剂的浓度分别为： 7-9g/L、7-9g/L、3-5g/L，洗呢处理液的pH值6-7，然后以2℃/min的速度将洗呢处理液升温至50-60℃，以车速30m/min及 1000 m的缸走4道；热水洗工艺中，以40℃温水洗30min；煮呢工序中，走两遍，第一遍在90℃高温下走50min；第二遍在40℃温水中走30min，车速为30m/min；柔软烘干工序中，采用弱阳离子性的丝毛柔软剂按照20g/L-30g/L浓度进行定型处理，车速8-10m/min，温度130℃-150℃。
通过以上技术方案，相对于现有技术，本发明具有以下优点：
1、纬纱原料采用15微米~20微米的超细防缩羊毛纤维，该细度的纤维适合纺制40公支-60公支的纱线，适合生产床上用品面料，且该细度纤维的手感柔软、刺痒感小，采用过氧化氢和壳聚糖综合处理的方法，不仅达到了消除羊毛纤维的定向摩擦效应，也减小了对纤维的强力损伤。纱线采用紧密纺纱方式，与传统环锭纺相比，紧密纺纱线具有条干均匀、纱线强力高、毛羽少，正好符合了床品面料断裂强力高、抗起毛起球的质量要求。
2、经纱采用桑蚕丝的股线，桑蚕丝具有良好的亲肤性能和丝滑柔糯的手感，但抗皱性能差。因此，经向真丝纬向羊毛纱线的色织交织提花面料，充分发挥了两者纤维材质的优点，该面料避免了全真丝面料抗皱性差，易出现勾丝，难打理和羊毛纤维刺痒感重、不可水洗的缺点，体现了柔韧的手感、柔雅的光泽、可机洗、易打理的优点。
附图说明
图1是实施例1的织物组织结构图；
图2是实施例2的织物组织结构图；
其中：织物组织图黑色的为经组织点，白色的为纬组织点。
具体实施方式
附图非限制性地公开了本发明所涉及优选实施例的结构示意图；以下将结合附图详细地说明本发明的技术方案。
原料准备：经纱采用桑蚕丝的股线20/22D/2~20/22D/3，纬纱采用40公支~60公支的超细防缩羊毛紧密纺纱线，超细防缩羊毛平均细度15微米~20微米，细度离散率18%-20%，平均长度70-90mm，长度离散率28%-30%。
羊毛纤维需要进行防缩整理使得纤维柔软、刺痒感小，避免羊毛表面的方向性摩擦效应，提升织物的尺寸稳定性。羊毛防缩工艺为：开毛→洗毛→过氧化氢处理→水洗→酸处理→水洗→壳聚糖处理→烘干。经过开毛和洗毛除去羊毛纤维上的毛脂、汗和污垢等。所述防缩工艺采用过氧化氢处理去除羊毛纤维部分鳞片层，然后用壳聚糖处理使羊毛纤维表面包覆壳聚糖，一方面防止羊毛纤维表面的定向摩擦效应，一方面羊毛纤维表面形成的薄膜减少了强力损伤，提高织物的尺寸稳定性。纤维防缩工艺采用过氧化氢处理，20%-30%的双氧水2-3g/L，硅酸钠0.5-1g/L，浴比为1:20-1:30，温度30-40℃，时间20-30min。酸处理采用醋酸0.5-1.5%（o.w.f），亚硫酸氢钠1-2%（o.w.f），温度35-40℃，时间15-20min。壳聚糖处理采用壳聚糖3-4g/L，醋酸1-2g/L，浴比1:20-1:30，时间50-60min。烘干温度50℃-60℃。经处理烘干好的羊毛纤维可用于纺纱工序。经脱鳞片和壳聚糖在纤维表面的成膜，减少了纤维表面的摩擦系数和对纤维造成的强力损伤。
羊毛纱线采用40公支~60公支紧密纺纱线。与传统环锭纺相比，该纺纱方式的成纱强力高、纱线表面毛羽少、条干均匀、耐磨性能好，从而使得面料的断裂强力和抗起毛起球性能够达到家纺床品的要求。纱线纺纱工序毛条→混条→精梳→针梳→粗纱→细纱。混条的定量22-28g/m，混合根数10-14根，牵伸倍数8-9，速度180-200m/min。精梳工序车速在180-200m/min。针梳工序共五道，牵伸倍数8-9，一道至四道的针梳速度180-200m/min，五道针梳速度220m/min-240m/min。粗纱工序的牵伸倍数10-12，出条速度120-140m/min。细纱工序的牵伸倍数18-20，摇架压力加压范围在2×105-3×105Pa，紧密纺纱负压3000-3500Pa，牵伸倍数17-19，钢丝圈转速12000-13000r/min，纱线捻度1000-1300捻/米。
真丝纱线采用绞纱染色，采用双活性染料1%-2%，元明粉45-55g/L，小苏打2-3g/L，盐25g/L，稳定剂10ml/ kg纱，染色温度70-75℃。
羊毛纱线采用筒纱进行染色。采用酸性染料对羊毛纱线进行染色，其中染料的用量根据颜色深浅而定，元明粉5%～10%(o.w.f)、硫酸(96%)2%～4%(o.w.f)、调节染浴pH值2-4，染色深色时酸的用量宜多些，以获得较高的上染百分率。染色浴比1：20～1：30。 30℃～50℃时始染纱线，然后以2-3℃/min速率升温至70℃，保温15-20min，然后以1-2℃/min速率升温至沸，再沸染45-60min之后，染色排液水洗。
采用大提花组织工艺在剑杆织机上按照一定规律交织而成。织造工艺：整经→穿经→织造。织造工艺为本领域一般技术人员所了解。
染整工艺：洗呢→水洗→煮呢→热水洗→冷水洗→柔软烘干。
洗呢：先40℃温水走两道，然后加入净洗剂7-9g/L；去油剂7-9g/L；分散剂3-5g/L；用乙酸调节pH值6-7；搅拌均匀，然后以2℃/min的速度升温至温度50-60℃；以车速30m/min及 1000 m的缸走4道。然后热水洗40℃洗30min。煮呢：走两遍，第一遍高温90℃走50min；第二遍温水40℃走30min；车速 30m/min。通过两步煮呢，能够使织物产生定型作用，获得良好的尺寸稳定性。柔软定型：采用的是弱阳离子性的丝毛柔软剂20g/L-30g/L；车速8-10m/min；温度130℃-150℃，该柔软剂具有良好的分散性与渗透性，可快速与纤维结合，柔定之后可赋予织物良好的柔软性和平滑性。
实施例一
经纱采用20/22D/2真丝纱线，纬纱采用40Nm防缩羊毛紧密纺纱线，织造规格20/22D/2*防缩羊毛40Nm/118*36，门幅280cm，织物组织图如图1所示。
实施例二
经纱采用20/22D/2真丝纱线，纬纱采用60Nm防缩羊毛紧密纺纱线，织造规格20/22D/2*防缩羊毛60Nm/118*42，门幅280cm，织物组织图如图2所示。

Claims (5)

1.一种用于家纺的真丝-羊毛交织提花面料的制备方法，该面料坯布的经纱为真丝纤维纺制出的真丝纱线，纬纱为经过过氧化氢与壳聚糖防缩整理后的超细防缩羊毛按照紧密纺纱工艺纺制出的羊毛纱线，所述真丝纱线与羊毛纱线按照提花组织结构交织形成真丝-羊毛提花面料；所述真丝纱线规格为20/22D/2~20/22D/3，羊毛纱线规格为40公支~60公支；其特征在于，包括以下步骤：首先，将超细防缩羊毛进行防缩整理，接着，将防缩整理后的超细防缩羊毛按照紧密纺纱工艺纺制成羊毛纱线，然后，分别将真丝纱线、羊毛纱线进行染整处理，其中，真丝纱线的染整工艺为绞纱染色工艺，羊毛纱线的染整工艺为筒纱染色工艺；最后，将经过染整处理后的真丝纱线作为经纱、羊毛纱线作为纬纱按照提花组织结构交织形成真丝-羊毛提花面料坯布，再经过后整理工艺，即可获得成品面料；所述超细防缩羊毛的防缩整理工艺路线：开毛→洗毛→过氧化氢处理→水洗→酸处理→水洗→壳聚糖处理→烘干；过氧化氢处理工序中，处理液包括浓度为2-3g/L的H2O2、浓度为0.5-1g/L的硅酸钠，过氧化氢处理工序的工艺参数为：浴比1:20-1:30、温度30-40℃，时间20-30min；酸处理工序中，处理液包括醋酸、亚硫酸氢钠，且醋酸、亚硫酸氢钠的o.w.f值分别为0.5-1.5%、1-2%，酸处理工序的工艺参数为：温度35-40℃，时间15-20min；壳聚糖处理工序中，处理液包括浓度为3-4g/L的壳聚糖、浓度为1-2g/L醋酸，壳聚糖处理工序的工艺参数为：浴比1:20-1:30，时间50-60min；烘干工序中，温度50℃-60℃。
2.根据权利要求1所述用于家纺的真丝-羊毛交织提花面料的制备方法，其特征在于，所述紧密纺纱工艺的路线：毛条→混条→精梳→针梳→粗纱→细纱；混条工序中，混条的定量22-28g/m，混合根数10-14根，牵伸倍数8-9，速度180-200m/min；精梳工序中，车速为180-200m/min；针梳工序，共五道，每道针梳工序的牵伸倍数均为8-9，一道至四道的针梳速度180-200m/min，五道针梳速度220m/min-240m/min；粗纱工序的牵伸倍数10-12，出条速度120-140m/min；细纱工序的牵伸倍数18-20，摇架压力加压范围介于2×105-3×105Pa之间，紧密纺纱负压3000-3500Pa，牵伸倍数17-19，钢丝圈转速12000-13000r/min，纱线捻度1000-1300捻/米。
3.根据权利要求1所述用于家纺的真丝-羊毛交织提花面料的制备方法，其特征在于，所述筒纱染色工艺中，采用酸性染料对羊毛纱线进行染色，染液中，还包含有元明粉、硫酸，且元明粉、硫酸的o.w.f值分别为：5%～10%、2%～4%，染液pH值2-4，浴比1：20～1：30；染液温度达到 30℃～50℃时始染羊毛纱线，接着以2-3℃/min速率升温至70℃，在70℃下保温15-20min，然后以1-2℃/min速率升温至沸，再沸染45-60min之后，排出染液，进入水洗工序。
4.根据权利要求1所述用于家纺的真丝-羊毛交织提花面料的制备方法，其特征在于，所述绞纱染色工艺中，采用含双活性染料质量份数为1%-2%的染液进行染色，且该染液中还包括浓度为45-55g/L的元明粉、浓度为2-3g/L的小苏打、浓度为25g/L的盐，另外，按照10ml/ kg真丝纱线的配比添加稳定剂；染色温度70-75℃。
5.根据权利要求1所述用于家纺的真丝-羊毛交织提花面料的制备方法，其特征在于，所述后整理工艺路线：洗呢→水洗→煮呢→热水洗→冷水洗→柔软烘干；洗呢工序中，首先采用40℃温水走两道，然后配制洗呢处理液，该洗呢处理液中，含有净洗剂、去油剂、分散剂，且净洗剂、去油剂、分散剂的浓度分别为： 7-9g/L、7-9g/L、3-5g/L，洗呢处理液的pH值6-7，然后以2℃/min的速度将洗呢处理液升温至50-60℃，以车速30m/min及 1000 m的缸走4道；热水洗工艺中，以40℃温水洗30min；煮呢工序中，走两遍，第一遍在90℃高温下走50min；第二遍在40℃温水中走30min，车速为30m/min；柔软烘干工序中，采用弱阳离子性的丝毛柔软剂按照20g/L-30g/L浓度进行定型处理，车速8-10m/min，温度130℃-150℃。
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