CN102741473A - 纺织品的制造方法 - Google Patents

纺织品的制造方法 Download PDF

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CN102741473A
CN102741473A CN201180008073XA CN201180008073A CN102741473A CN 102741473 A CN102741473 A CN 102741473A CN 201180008073X A CN201180008073X A CN 201180008073XA CN 201180008073 A CN201180008073 A CN 201180008073A CN 102741473 A CN102741473 A CN 102741473A
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decorative pattern
pattern template
template
transfer
reflection
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哈拉尔德.考夫曼
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    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B23—MACHINE TOOLS; METAL-WORKING NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • B23B—TURNING; BORING
    • B23B27/00—Tools for turning or boring machines; Tools of a similar kind in general; Accessories therefor
    • B23B27/10—Cutting tools with special provision for cooling
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    • B32B5/24—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed one layer being a fibrous or filamentary layer
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    • B44—DECORATIVE ARTS
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    • B44C1/105—Applying flat materials, e.g. leaflets, pieces of fabrics comprising an adhesive layer
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    • B44—DECORATIVE ARTS
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    • B44C1/16—Processes, not specifically provided for elsewhere, for producing decorative surface effects for applying transfer pictures or the like
    • B44C1/165—Processes, not specifically provided for elsewhere, for producing decorative surface effects for applying transfer pictures or the like for decalcomanias; sheet material therefor
    • B44C1/17—Dry transfer
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    • B44—DECORATIVE ARTS
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    • B44C1/00—Processes, not specifically provided for elsewhere, for producing decorative surface effects
    • B44C1/22—Removing surface-material, e.g. by engraving, by etching
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
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    • D06H—MARKING, INSPECTING, SEAMING OR SEVERING TEXTILE MATERIALS
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    • D06H1/04—Marking textile materials; Marking in combination with metering or inspecting by attaching threads, tags, or the like
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    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06Q—DECORATING TEXTILES
    • D06Q1/00—Decorating textiles
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Abstract

本发明涉及一种纺织品的制造方法，其中该方法具有以下步骤：将平坦的花纹模板(10)放在织物基材(30)上；将花纹模板(10)缝制在织物基材(30)上以使邻近所要的花纹的穿孔产生在花纹模板(10)中；移除该花纹模板(10)的位于由该穿孔限定的花纹外部的部分(10b)；及将花纹模板(10)的包括花纹的其余部分(10a)永久地固定在织物基材(30)上。

Description

纺织品的制造方法
技术领域
本发明涉及纺织品(textile product)的制造方法，特别是拥有具有反射特性(reflecting property)的花纹(motif)的纺织品的制造方法。
背景技术
DE 1 446 828 A1揭露了一种反射转印膜(refflecting transfer film)及一种制造反光－反射物品(refflex-reflecting article)(例如用于制造衣物)的方法。转印膜具有：转印层(transfer layer)，其包含黏着层及通过从其部分地凸出的并入微球(incorporated microball)设置在黏着层上的橡胶状的黏结剂层；及保护层，其设置在转印层的黏着侧上并可取下。在转印层正面上，转印层具有尺寸上稳定的载体基材(carrier substrate)，其可在胶黏操作后干式取下。为将转印层转印至衣物上，将热熨斗稳稳地压在组件的载体基材上，然后从反光的转印膜取下载体基材。为施加各种不同形状的标记，首先必须剪下所述花纹，然后施加在下方的衣物或布料上。
现有技术中还已知使转印至纺织品（诸如衣物）上的反射花纹(尤其是单独或独立字母)在转印操作之后设置有外围延伸的接缝(其公认地考虑到花纹的反射及非反射再现的最终组合)，产生了吸引人的效果，但是其使得整个工艺考虑多个要求的工序，特别是取决于涉及繁杂且昂贵（由于通常用于切割操作的昂贵的激光设备）的各种花纹的复杂的切割操作。
发明内容
本发明目的是要提供一种纺织品的制造方法，其以特别经济的方式允许以相对较低的复杂度及费用，制造吸引人的纺织品。
根据本发明的用于制造纺织品的方法包含以下步骤：
-将平坦的花纹模板(motif template)放在一织物基材(textile substrate)上；
-以在该花纹模板中产生限定希望的花纹的穿孔(perforation)的方式，将该花纹模板缝在该织物基材上；
-移除该花纹模板的位于由该穿孔限定的花纹外部的部分；及
-将该花纹模板的具有该花纹的其余部分永久地固定到该织物基材上。
就此而言，此处及下文中，与一般术语一致的术语「缝制」用来表示其中一个或多个缝纫线或缝纫纱线(sewing yarn)穿过要缝纫的材料的任何操作，其中缝纫线紧密结合一起或紧密结合到所缝纫材料。由于花纹模板的穿孔是主要通过根据本发明的将花纹模板缝在织物基材上的步骤产生的以及由于在花纹模板及织物基材之间产生的连接仅在固定步骤(即上述一系列方法步骤中的最后步骤)中变成永久固定(例如优选是耐洗的)，因而也可以通过绣花机产生相应的接缝。就此和由于，在花纹模板的设置在由穿孔限定的花纹外的部分被取下之后，实质上围绕所要的花纹的接缝仍然保留且仅例如借助于加热或压力来实现后续的永久固定，因此将花纹模板缝纫至或涂覆至织物基材的步骤也可以称为所谓的「缝缀(stitching on)」。
本发明是基于这样的构思：当缝上花纹模板(其特别地如下文所述的可涉及合适配置的反射转印贴(reflection transfer))时，同时(也就是说，所谓的在一个且相同的工作步骤中)形成穿孔，此穿孔允许后续移除设置超出穿孔或在所要花纹之外的部分。
就此而言，花纹可从一开始即已存在于花纹模板中，或它可首先由穿孔或形成穿孔的接缝限定。花纹例如可以是任何影像花纹(image motif)(包括多个部分)、字母数字字符(也就是说，例如也是一系列的字母或数字)、或仅为可代表花纹模板的一部分的区域(以一或多个颜色描绘，包括白色或黑色及透明)。
因此，根据本发明，仅通过几个方法步骤，即可产生吸引人的纺织品，该纺织品根据所使用的花纹模板，例如一方面通过形成外边缘线的接缝，及另一方面在边缘线内的区域内具有特殊特性(property)(也就是说，例如反射)，来表示任何文字标记。
根据本发明的方法尤其显著简化了反射转印贴的常用的处理，其中首先在外缘区域以复杂且昂贵的操作(一般为手动或使用激光装置)切割反射转印贴。本方法尤其可通过例如为运动组织制造设置有反射标志(logo)的薄膜(其后单独的爱好者俱乐部的名字根据本发明可被缝制在其上)的程序，以非常便宜的方式为爱好者俱乐部制造短期系列商品，如防伪及高价值的单独制品。如此，由于不再需要例如缝上或缝缀标志的操作，因此可以省下许多时间及成本。如果考虑每个花纹例如在20,000及30,000针脚之间的典型针数，所省下的时间将有例如约20分钟之多。
在一实施例中，花纹模板提供有反射特性。为此目的，优选具有以下层结构的反射转印贴被用作花纹模板：基底介质(base medium)、转印黏着剂、选择性的中间颜料层、及反射颜料(reflection color)，其中反射颜料含有多个反射粒子，及其中反射粒子升高到硬化的反射颜料的表面之上。在放在织物基材上之前，移除基底介质(例如抗黏着的硅氧烷基的保护纸)。
就此而言，本发明是基于以下认识：合适结构的，更具体地说由转印黏着层及包含具有多个反射粒子的反射颜料的颜料层形成的，反射转印贴，允许这样限定反射转印贴及同时良好反射粒子的总厚度以使可实现根据本发明的将反射转印贴缝在织物基材上的操作，且同时在反射转印贴中形成十分整齐的穿孔。
就此而言，要注意到，在现有技术中，传统的反射转印贴具有相对「封闭」或密封的层，其完全不允许穿过其实现缝纫，或者允许伴有的整齐的穿孔效果。尤其，如本说明书的开头部分已经所述的，此类反射转印贴一般需要一种「转印带(transfer tape)」，该转印带在制造程序期间需要作为用于施加反射粒子的基底层(此施加操作以左右颠倒的关系(side-reversed relationship)进行)，及转印带在转印至织物基材后使层结构向上封闭，并且反射转印贴随后朝向顶侧并非是不受约束的(以允许缝过整个反射转印贴)。
在一实施例中，花纹模板在朝向织物基材的那侧上具有固定层(fixinglayer)。此固定层既可以是临时或暂时固定在织物基材上(在将固定层缝在织物基材上的后续操作之前)，且还可以是允许最后永久固定(例如在加热和/或压力的作用下)的固定层。
在一实施例中，将花纹模板放在织物基材上的步骤包括优选使用喷胶，而将花纹模板至少暂时固定在织物基材上。
在一实施例中，花纹模板具有由热塑性材料(例如聚胺酯或聚酰胺)制成的薄膜。花纹模板可另外具有合适的丝网印刷黏着剂(screen printingadhesive)(例如，如在EP 1 137 546 B1中所描述的)。
在一实施例中，使用了总厚度在15μm至100μm之间的范围内，尤其在25μm至85μm之间的范围内，的花纹模板。
在一实施例中，所要的花纹是以平面图中正确的左右吻合的关系(correctside relationship)通过反射转印贴中的反射颜料表示的。通过上述的合适结构的反射转印贴精确实施这样表示正确的左右吻合关系，其避免使用在现有技术中很常见的「转印带」(在制造程序期间需要使用转印带作为基底层用于以左右颠倒的关系施加反射粒子)，因而可以根据本发明缝过整个反射转印贴。
本发明另外涉及一种通过根据本发明的方法制造的纺织品。
本发明其他配置请见说明书及所附的权利要求。
在下文中借助于实施通过附图中示出的例子更详细地描述本发明。
附图说明
图1表示描述根据本发明的优选实施例中的方法的流程图；
图2a-f表示示出根据本发明的方法的示意图；及
图3是在图1及2的方法中使用的反射转印贴的示意图。
具体实施方式
现将参考图1所示的流程图及图2a至2f中为示出服务的示意图，描述根据本发明的方法的优选实施例。
参考图2a，首先，将为喷胶形式的用于临时固定的黏着层20设置在为反射转印贴形式的花纹模板10(将参考图3详细描述其结构)，然后将花纹模板放到织物基材30(例如T恤)上(步骤S10)，在此情况下，也将缝制非织布(stitching non-woven fabric)或刺绣背衬(embroidery backing)40放在织物基材30下方。
花纹模板10或反射转印贴具有花纹(其中花纹从一开始可已存在于花纹模板中或可由在下文描述的穿孔或形成穿孔的接缝限定)。此花纹例如可以是任何影像花纹、字母数字字符(也就是说，例如一系列的字母或数字)、或也可以只是一个表面(其具有一或多种颜色，包括白色或黑色及透明)。在一系列字母或数字的情况下，接缝也可以围绕每个单独的字符(也就是说，例如每个单独、独立的字母)延伸。这样，与在整块面积上缝上较大花纹相比，可以在完成的纺织品中实现改进的材料触感。
在步骤S20，以在花纹模板10中产生至少一个穿孔的方式，将花纹模板10或反射转印贴10(在从图3所示的层结构取下基底介质后)缝在包括织物基材30、黏着层20及缝制非织布材料或背衬40的组件上，以限定在所制造的纺织品上所要的花纹。缝上花纹模板10的此操作首先包括产生为粗缝针脚(tacking stitch)形式的第一接缝50，如图2c所示，优选针脚长度(stitchlength)在2mm至2.5mm之间的范围内，接着再产生为缎纹针脚(satin stitch)形式的第二接缝60，优选针脚长度在2mm至3mm之间的范围内，如图2d所示。然而，应当理解到，本发明不限于这些仅为举例描述的缝缀或缝纫针脚，而是也可以通过使花纹模板10或薄膜通过其被穿孔的任何其他种类的针脚来实施。
接着如图2e所示，在步骤S30，例如手动移除花纹模板10上不属于所制造纺织品上所要花纹或设置超出穿孔的那个部分10b，就此而言，利用以下事实：花纹模板10通过以前在步骤S20形成的接缝50、60被很好地穿孔。
于是在步骤S40中，如图2f所示，纺织品连同花纹模板10或反射转印贴的其余部分一起放在转印压模(transfer press)70下用于永久固定并且利用加热和/或压力永久固定，例如在120℃至180℃的温度下，被压制持续5秒至20秒的时间。
用作花纹模板10的反射转印贴优选是图3示意性示出的结构，也就是说，其按以下顺序包括基底介质11、转印黏着剂12、选择性中间颜料层(未示出)及反射颜料13，其中反射颜料13含有多个反射粒子14(例如最大尺寸为45μm)，及其中反射粒子14升高到硬化的反射颜料13的表面之上。制造此反射转印贴的合适方法描述于EP1 137 546 B1。基底介质11例如可以是抗黏着的硅氧烷基的保护纸，其在将反射转印贴放在织物基材上前取下。可利用任何合适的方法，例如挤压方法、丝网印刷方法(如EP 1 137 546 B1中所描述的)、合适的涂覆方法或以某一其他方式，将反射转印贴10中使用的转印黏着剂12涂覆至基底介质11。
合适的转印黏着剂12例如是热塑性共聚酯热熔黏着薄膜。薄膜或转印黏着剂12的强度应该足以进行缝制操作，及尤其一方面不应太软，以防止其黏到在缝制操作中所用并在上下运动中加热黏着剂的缝针上。为此，可选择地，转印黏着剂12可设置有强化粒子。另一方面，薄膜或转印黏着剂12又不应太硬，以仍能允许缝针从中穿过而没有任何问题，及允许其随后沿着所形成的穿孔线撕下。
在进一步的实施例中，也可在用于根据本发明的缝制操作的设备中，另外整合激光单元，上述步骤期间或之后，以精确的关系在缝制及固定就位的相应配置上提供激光处理。虽然已通过上述方法步骤，将花纹模板或薄膜充分穿孔，以允许移除(例如通过撕下)不需要的薄膜部分，但另外也可以使用激光单元以在反射转印贴或薄膜上扫过，以例如在其表面上绘制，以明确锁定目标的方式，分区（in region-wise fashion）破坏表面上的反射，来实现吸引人的效果(「反射/非反射」)。就此而言，利用以下事实，在上述根据本发明使用的反射转印贴的情况中，具有反射粒子的表面向上开口且不用转印带覆盖。此外，也可通过印刷至反射区，施加非反射要素，诸如植绒条(flockstrip)、非反射颜料等。
尽管已参考具体实施例描述了本发明，但是例如通过组合和/或调换单独的实施例的特征，许多修改和替代的实施例对本领域内的技术人员是显而易见的。因此，本领域内的技术人员将认识到，本发明也涵盖这样的修改和替代的实施例，及本发明的范围仅限于所附的权利要求及其等效物。

Claims (9)

1.一种纺织品的制造方法，其中该方法具有以下步骤：
a)将平坦的花纹模板（10）放在织物基材（30）上；
b)以在该花纹模板（10）中产生限定所要的花纹的穿孔的方式，将该花纹模板（10）缝在该织物基材（30）上；
c)移除该花纹模板（10）的位于由该穿孔限定的花纹外部的部分；及
d)将该花纹模板（10）的具有该花纹的其余部分（10a）永久地固定在该织物基材（30）上。
2.如权利要求1所述的方法，其特征在于，该花纹模板（10）在朝向该织物基材（3）的侧面上具有固定层。
3.如权利要求1或2所述的方法，其特征在于，步骤a)包括优选使用喷胶，将该花纹模板（10）临时固定在该织物基材（30）上。
4.如前述权利要求中的任一项所述的方法，其特征在于，该花纹模板（10）具有由热塑性材料制成的薄膜。
5.如前述权利要求中的任一项所述的方法，其特征在于，使用了总厚度在15μm至100μm之间的范围内的花纹模板，特别是在25μm至85μm之间的范围内的花纹模板。
6.如前述权利要求中的任一项所述的方法，其特征在于，该花纹模板（10）设置为具有反射特性。
7.如权利要求6所述的方法，其特征在于，具有以下层结构的反射转印贴被用作该花纹模板（10）：基底介质（11）、转印黏着剂（12）、选择性的中间颜料层、及反射颜料（13），其中该反射颜料（13）含有多个反射粒子（14），以及其中该反射粒子（14）被升高到硬化的反射颜料的表面之上。
8.如权利要求7所述的方法，其特征在于，在该反射转印贴中，所要的花纹是以平面图中正确的左右吻合关系通过该反射颜料表示的。
9.一种纺织品，其特征在于，该纺织品是通过如前述权利要求中的任一项所述的方法进行制造的。
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US9527339B2 (en) 2016-12-27
RU2551757C2 (ru) 2015-05-27
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