BE406755A - - Google Patents

Description

       

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  Machine. sew, especially leather,
This invention, relating to sewing machines and their starting and stopping mechanisms, is particularly, but not exclusively, intended for machines used to permanently join together parts made of a material that is thick and difficult to penetrate. such as leather.



   The shoemaking industry, for example, nowadays commonly uses shuttle stitch sewing machines, of the type that was the subject of the French patent of October 2, 1911 (N 436,732) or the like, to fix the second soles. the welts with which some shoes are already fitted, However, the sewing tools of these machines are controlled by a mechanism which allows them to perform a good sewing at a speed that can give up to 500 stitches per minute,

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 .but which is not at all suitable for starting the machine at a relatively high speed in order to obtain a better output, ie 1000 stitches per minute.

   The mechanism in question consists, in fact, of two camshafts, rather long, arranged horizontally above and behind one another and across the head of the machine, near the top of said head, the cams mounted on these shafts being relatively massive and actuating the sewing tools by means of articulated parts, no less massive, some of which extend across the machine over considerable distances.

   Such an arrangement of the camshafts, together with the use of somewhat heavy mechanisms for controlling the sewing tools, has the effect of causing jerks which become excessive as soon as an attempt is made to accelerate the march to a great extent. of the machine, these jerks making it difficult, if not impossible, to obtain a regular seam and also tending to form each stitch in a less exact manner.



   This being said, the present invention aims at the creation of a sewing machine of the aforementioned type in which the control mechanism of the sewing tools will be so arranged that the tremors resulting from the rapid operation of these tools will be much less strong than if one sought to machine printing such a high speed by means of the mechanism which has been used to this day.



   In the machine system described below, the sewing tools are actuated by cams and cranks which, instead of being mounted on horizontal shafts installed across and near the top of the machine, are carried by shafts oriented in several directions and can therefore be grouped near the place where the sewing is done. This helps the entire operating mechanism to operate at high speeds.

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 high speeds without excessive shaking. Grouping the shafts quite close to the point of operation of the machine also allows the sewing tools to be connected to the various cams by relatively short and light connections, which also tends to dampen vibrations.

   In addition, said shafts are installed at such a height that they remain for the most part below the point of operation, thereby giving a machine capable of operating without shaking as much as the machines known because its center of gravity is low, and also allowing the operator to follow the progress of the sewing work more easily because the mechanisms are grouped in such a way as to drop on the point of operation an abundance of light coming from different directions.



   When adapting a sewing machine to work at high speed, it is important that the rate at which the sewing tools operate relative to the operating cycle of the machine be set very precisely, as also the times at which they operate. compared to others, if we want the time consumed by these tools in playing the role assigned to them to be reduced to an extent compatible with smooth walking, and so as to make them act in perfect harmony with each other. other.

   It is especially important that, in machines of the aforesaid type, the needle and the awl are actuated in a way which, while allowing them to remain inactive during certain parts of the sewing work, nevertheless causes them to move without spurts and quickly at other times. Said machines must therefore meet the conditions specified above to be able to perform their work at very high speeds.



   As well, the invention also aims at the use of a novel mechanism for thus actuating both the needle and the awl.

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 We'll see. that this mechanism here comprises two shafts on each of which are formed two cranks, a crank of one shaft cooperating with a crank of the other shaft to actuate the needle, while the awl is actuated by the joint action of the two other cranks. Said shafts rotate at different speeds and in opposite directions, and the two pairs of cranks are coupled respectively to the needle holder and to the awl holder by connecting rods which impart to the awl and the needle the desired movements.



   In known machines of the above-mentioned type, the work is driven by an awl which rises to pierce a hole in the underside of the work to the right of the needle, seen from the front of the machine, and which, before leaving said hole, moves to the left to present the work to the needle.

   Once in line with the needle, the awl is withdrawn from the work, then the needle descends to pass through the hole that has just been drilled, After exiting the work, the awl moves to the right to be ready to drill another hole in the work and to bring this hole opposite the needle. when the needle emerges from the hole where it came down, the looper and the thread hook work together to thread the needle which then goes up through the work with a loop of thread in its beard.

   During the ascent of the needle, the thread lifter grasps this loop of thread and holds it open so that the nozzle of the shuttle seizes it in turn to pass it over it, as well as over it. the yarn going from the shuttle to the stitch point forms last.

   The thread having passed over the top of the shuttle, a tensioner located below the work pulls on the thread to make it fall from the shuttle onto the work and to tighten the knot of the stitch in the work. Since the shuttle

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 over which the thread passes must be thick enough to accommodate a bobbin containing a sufficient quantity of thread, it follows that a lot of thread is drawn from bottom to top through the work by the action of the shuttle, and that the tensioner must therefore pull the same length of thread up and down through the needle hole to tighten the stitch.



   We can imagine that if we allowed the awl of such a machine to make its hole at a time which would leave it in the work while the thread is pulled down by the tensioner through the hole previously drilled in the work , the embedding of the awl in the work could have squeezed or would squeeze the goods hard enough against the periphery of the hole it has just made to prevent the thread from sliding easily in it, the friction thus engendered the scoring and weakening it greatly and also spoiling the appearance of the point formed under these conditions.

   The thing is all the more to be feared as the portion of thread coming up from the bottom of the work and used for the formation of a stitch will have already been pulled from bottom to top in the work during the formation of the preceding stitches, and also pulled several times up and down on the work by the tensioner, the danger of fraying the thread thus becoming greater.



   However, if the awl, once returned to its starting point, after having carried out a driving movement, is maintained, as is the case in the machines in question, out of contact with the work until after that the thread used for the previous stitch has been pulled down over the work and this stitch tightened almost completely, the period of the machine's duty cycle during which the awl can be ripped first to pierce the work, then to train this one is relatively short since the period of this same cycle during which the needle must be threaded by the looper

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 and the stitch formed and tight in the work is quite long.



   In a machine in which, as just said, piercing a hole through the awl and presenting the work to the needle takes little time, difficulties will arise if the machine is started at high speeds. larger than usual because the training movements printed on the work by the awl will be very jerky, very uncertain. The speed of operation of the awl drive mechanism will also wear out machine parts in a very short time.



   There is more. when a machine of the aforementioned type performs its work on a thick material, it may happen that the awl does not come to be placed exactly in line with the needle at the end of its driving movement, a thing probably attributable to the inertia of the work which tires the awl. So, when the needle goes down, the work deflects it into the hole pierced by the awl or it makes its way through the pieces it is sewing. In either case, the appearance of the work is spoiled. This state of affairs would obviously worsen if the machine was operated at higher speeds.



   In order to remedy these drawbacks, it is proposed to provide a machine of the aforementioned type with a new drive mechanism which will enable it to operate at high speed without thereby ceasing to perform its sewing work well.



   The present invention also aims to have the new entrainment mechanism in such a way that the needle and the awl will constantly occupy the same plane, which will make it possible to easily check the alignment of these parts and to adjust them no less. easily, if the thing is necessary;

   and as said parts do not participate in the training

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 of the work, it will be possible to use a needle and a fine awl to make only a small hole in the work, the arrangement here preferably being such that the driving of the work is effected only by the foot. de-doe and by the work table which return to their starting point while the awl (shorter, therefore more rigid than the needle) remains implanted in the work and prevents it d6,. '   go back.



   In the present machine system, a curved needle with a beard and an awl, also curved, are mounted on supports tilting around the same axis to bring the needle awl into the work, these two tools constantly occupying one and the same plane. vertical. The book table and the presser foot constituting the feed mechanism are both movable on the feed line, the latter gripping the book against the first and moving with it to help advance the book towards the top. left in the machine by a distance equal to the length of the stitches to be sewn.

   After that, the awl rises to punch a needle hole in the work while the awl is held firmly in place by the presser foot which presses on it and combats the thrust of the awl. The presser foot is then lifted from the work and returned to the right to the position it first occupied, the work table moving with it to prepare for another ditch movement. The feed begins as soon as the thread lifter grasps the loop of thread drawn by the needle to the top of the work through the needle hole mentioned last.



   The invention also comprises: a new mechanism for the looper, a mechanism capable of functioning well at high speed; new models of thread checkers that work in conjunction with a tensioner to provide the

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 exact quantity of thread required for the formation of the sewing points and which ensure a good tightening of each point, these controllers comprising in particular the simplest means making superfluous the use of the auxiliary tensioner of use, a thread measurer and a yarn feeder functioning in an absolutely exact way, and also a system of reciprocating action yarn gripper members obviating a loss of control of the yarn by these two organs;

     a starting and stopping mechanism specially designed to bring to rest, without shock and invariably at the same point in its operating cycle, a high-speed machine, such as that provided by the present invention; finally, a sewing machine provided with a curved needle with a beard and thus regulated and the devices for handling the thread and for driving the work operate at times such that each stitch can be done exceptionally well at very high speed without this operation being radically different from that carried out commonly today according to established methods.



   In the attached drawing:
Fig. 1 is a side view on the left of the new model of sewing machine; fig. 2, a more detailed front view of the head of this machine; fig. 3, a profile view to the right of certain parts of said head; fig. 4 and 5 are diagrams illustrating in plan and in profile on the right the respective positions of the control shafts of the various tools; fig. 6 is a sectional view from the right side of the machine showing the mechanism actuating the needle and the awl; fig. 7, a plan of certain parts shown in FIG. 6;

   fig. 8 and 9 are detailed views showing, respectively, in plan and side elevation, details of the needle mount and the awl; fig, 10 and 11, cuts through the line X-X and Xl-Xl of fig. 8, the needle and awl alignment device; fig. 12 is a fragmentary view of some details

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 of fig. 11; fig. 13, a profile view to the right of the mechanism for actuating the thread lifter, the needle guide and the thread clamps, this view also showing certain parts of the thread measuring and thread clamp devices; fig. 14, a profile view to the right mainly illustrating the mechanism used to raise and lower the presser foot and to engage it in the active position, to actuate the thread measuring lever and also to actuate the two thread clamps;

   Figs 15 and 16 are detailed views showing, in profile to the right and from the front, a lever making it possible to vary the degree of lifting of the presser foot at the end of a sewing operation; fig. 17 is a detailed view showing in plan and in section certain parts going with the presser foot control mechanism and with the thread measuring mechanism; fig. 18, a view showing in profile to the right of the connections connecting the driving rod of the presser foot to an angled lever serving to actuate said rod; Fig. 19, a view taken in the direction of arrows XlX-XlX of rod 18; rod 20 and 21 are views showing in section and in profile to the right certain details of the wire nip mechanism;

   fig. 22 is a partly broken away view showing in profile on the left certain parts of a rotary tensioner also shown in FIG. 13: freeze 24, a section through line XXIII-XXIII of fig. 22; fig. 23, a view showing in profile to the right certain details of the device for engaging the presser foot; fig. 25, a view showing, partly in section, other details of this device; freezes 26, a front view showing in particular the mechanism used to impart to the work table and the presser foot oscillating movements to drive the work; fig. 27 and 28 are views showing, respectively, in profile. straight and in plan, an adjustment mechanism for a mistletoe and a knife used to make incisions in the welt to hide the seam;

   fig 29 is a plan view of some

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 parts shown in fig. 26; fig. 30 and 31 are plan and end views illustrating how the rotary shuttle is brought into play; fig. 32, 33, 34 show respectively in profile to the right, from the front and in plan the control of the looper; fig. 35 is a graph of the path followed by the looper in moving relative to the needle; fig. 36, a sectional view of certain clutch devices mounted on a countershaft; fig. 37 and 38 are views showing the left side and the gilding of certain parts going with the rotary tensioner; fig. 39 is a sectional view of the high and low speed running mechanism;

   fig. 40, 41 and 42 illustrate certain elements of the stop mechanism; fig. 43 is a plan of part of the clutch mechanism; fig. 44 to 49 inclusive illustrate the relative positions of certain parts of the machine at successive periods of the operating cycle; fig.



  50 is a diagram of the movements printed on the machine tools during sewing work.



   1 (fig. 1, 2, 3) designates the column and 5 the cast iron head of the machine, the main motor shaft 15 (fig. 4, 5, 6, 7,) mounted parallel to its front side of which carries a two-speed clutch device in which belts transmit the movement of a countershaft journaled in the bottom of column 1. This clutch device is so established that the shaft 15 rotates normally at high speed in a clockwise direction of a watch, seen from the left of the machine, after the starter pedal has been completely lowered, but can be made to turn more slowly in the same direction by letting the said pedal go up a little.

   On the shaft 15 are wedged two cranks, 18 and 20, and various cams @ actuating the mechanism of the needle and the awl, the mechanism for raising and engaging the presser foot and also the thread meter.

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 parallel to the shaft 18 is mounted, a little below and in front of it, a second shaft, 21, controlling the needle and the awl. This shaft is coupled by a gear 23 (fig. 4, 5 ) to shaft 15 and turns twice as fast as the latter and in the opposite direction.

   The shaft 21 carries two cranks 25, 27 located one in front of the crank 18 of the shaft 15 and the other in front of the crank 20, the left cranks acting in concert to impart the desired movements to the shaft. awl and the right cranks acting in the same way to actuate the needle. The two pairs of cranks are placed at such an inclination with respect to each other that, during the rest of the machine, the radial line of the crank 20 runs upwards and forwards at an angle of approximately 30 with the horizontal, while the radial line of the crank 18 goes down and back and remains tilted somewhat vertically.



  The radial line of the crank 27 in turn runs upward and backward at an angle of about 30 with the horizontal, while the radial line of the crank 25 runs backward and outward. the bottom by making an angle of about 25 with the vertical.



   The angle wheel 29, wedged on the shaft 15 (fig. 4, 13, is engaged with a similar wheel 31 entered on the bottom of a short shaft 33 which is unable to move it in the direction of its length. , On the latter, which therefore rotates at the same speed as the shaft 15 and counterclockwise, seen from above, is wedged a block 35 (fig. La) provided with cam grooves serving to operate the needle guide 37, the thread hook 39 and the work mechanism.



  It also carries, near its upper end, a thread-lifting cam 41 and a helical wheel 45 which drives a two-part shaft 45 (fig. 30) controlling the shuttle 47. In front of the shaft 21 is horizontally mounted a third shaft.

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 rocker 49 (FIG. 4) which is inserted into a sleeve 51 which can turn around it. A casing, consisting of a hollow arm 53 (FIG. 2), contains a gear train 55 (FIG. 37) actively connecting the shaft 21 to the sleeve 51.



  On the latter is fixed a cam part 59 (fig. 4) which imparts useful movements to the looper 61 and to a pair of thread blockers, 63 and 65.



   The advantages resulting from the above grouping of short trees in close proximity to each other were explained at the beginning of this memoir. The head of the machine having the shape of a somewhat inverted T, this leaves more or less in front of the point of junction of the branches of the T the place where the seam takes place, thus allowing the light coming from the 'rear and on each side of the top of the machine to fall in abundance on the work at this point.



   A curved needle 67 with beard in the front and a curved awl 69 are respectively subject to. their segments 71 and 75 mounted so as to always be able to oscillate in one and the same vertical plane about a horizontal axis 75 sie across the machine (fig. 8), the awl rising to drill in the underside of the machine. work a hole, and the needle descending to enter that hole. In the opposite sides of the segment of the awl are located horizontal pins 77 (fig. 10) whose axes, located in the extension of one another, are mounted to rotate in consoles 79 attached to the head of machine, one to the left and one to the right of the awl segment. The right pin threads into a sleeve 80 and is unable to move lengthwise.

   This sleeve can be adjusted lengthwise to align the awl with the needle. To this end, it is provided with an ear 81 (fig. 11, 12) crossed by an adjustment screw 83 which threads into the corresponding console 79 and which carries collars abutting on the opposite sides.

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 of said ear to move along the sleeve 80 and the segment of the awl by turning the screw 83. A wedge 85 with a threaded shank (fig. 10) can be moved forward or backward more or less by the operation of a nut 87, mounted in the console 79, to stop the sleeve 80 in the po si ti on which is given to it, From the console 79 to the left of the segment 73 of the awl projects towards this segment a socket 89 through which the pin passes 77 to the left of the segment.

   A sleeve 94 is slipped over the needle 89 which is motionless in the direction of its length and it is on the right end of this sleeve that the segment 71 of the needle is formed, this segment having a shape such that the Aigui lle occupies the same transverse vertical plane as the awl. On the other hand, on the sleeve 94 is journaled the needle guide holder 93 whose lateral movement is blocked by the console 79 on the left and by the segment 71 of the needle against which it presses. to impart to the awl 69 the desired movements, in its segment 73 is implanted, outside the axis of the pins 77, a pin 95 (fig. 6) on which pivots a connecting rod 97 which is also articulated to the upper branch 99 with an angled lever 101.

   This lever in turn pivots on a horizontal spindle 103 located in the front of the head of the machine, said spindle being a little above and a little behind the axis 75 and extending in the transverse direction, at the lower branch 105 of the lever 101 is articulated a rod 107 which is also articulated to the arm 109 of a lever 111 pivoting approximately at its mid-length on the crank 18. On the lower arm 113 of the lever 111 is articulated to its turn a connecting rod 115 which pivots on the crank .25.



   To impart to the needle 67 the desired movements, on one side of its segment 71 projects a horizontal pin 117 transferred radially outside the axis.

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 oscillation of said segment, and on this pin pivots a connecting rod 119 which also pivots on the arm 121 of a lever 122 articulated at 123 a little above and a little behind the axis of oscillation of the needle. To the arm 125 of the lever 122 is articulated a rod 127 which pivots on the rear arm! A lever 129 in turn pivots on the crank 20 of the shaft 15. An anterior projecting arm of the lever 129 pivots on a connecting rod 131 which also pivots on a connecting rod 133 articulated to the frame of the machine on a spindle 135, in front of and above the shaft 21.

   To the connecting rod 133 is coupled and articulated on the same pivot as the connecting rod 131 a connecting rod 137 connected to the crank 27.



   We will see later that the use of such a system of connecting rods to actuate the awl is extraordinarily advantageous when the awl is inserted into the work and, even with extra-strong soles, the rotation of the The main shaft of the machine experiences little more resistance during the penetration of the awl into the work.



   The order in which the various parts of the machine perform their movements relative to each other is described at length below, but we will now explain how the awl 69, the needle 67, the needle guide 37 and some of the devices acting in conjunction with them behave with each other during sewing work.



  When the machine is at its stopping point, the awl is located below the work table 161 (fig. 32). After making a hole in the structure on the way up, the awl remains in it while the drive devices come back, then withdrawing from the structure, it descends to the bottom of its course and finally resumes the position that it occupied in the first place below the structure.

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   On the contrary, when the machine is stopped, the point of the needle remains above the work (fig. 32). When the machine is restarted, it reaches the top of its course and then descends into the structure. The thread is laid in the beard of the needle by the looper 61, after which the thread lifter 163, grasping the loop of thread held by the needle (fig. 45), unfolds it to allow the nose of the needle to enter. shuttle 47 (fig. 46). The tensioner now pulls said loop down to drop it from the shuttle and tighten it in the work.

   The shuttle, which makes two complete turns on itself during the formation of each stitch, is controlled by a mechanism shown in fig. 5, 13, 30, 31 and 44, comprising a gear wheel 43 mounted on the shaft 33 and in mesh with another gear wheel, 165, on the shaft 45, this shaft being formed of two horizontal parts carried apart from each other and coupled together by cranks 171 and 173 and by a connecting rod 175, one part of said shaft being coupled to the shuttle and the other part being secured to the wheel 165. The frame in which is formed the shuttle guide is located at the front end of a bracket 179 (fig. 30).



   The looper 61 (see fig. 2, 32, 55) is mounted in such a position on a short pivot 181, implanted in an anterior extension 182 of the head of the machine, that its axis is located approximately in the vertical plane in which the looper The needle and the awl perform their movements.



  The pivot 181 is located just behind the vertical plane occupied by the axis of oscillation of said tools, and somewhat below this axis, and it tilts forward and up and down making an angle of about 22 with the horizontal.



   The looper consists of a short rod 183 crimped in a short lever 185 pivoting on a spindle 187 implanted in a block 189 mowing madly on the pivot 181. This results in

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 a universal joint which makes it possible to print on the upper end of the looper forward and backward movements as well as transverse movements, as explained below. The rod 183, which is pierced with a vertical eye through which the thread passes, goes upward and forward, leaving the top of this eye in front of the beard of the needle, and almost in the same horizontal plane as it, just before the arrival of said needle at the lower limit of its stroke.



   The bottom of the lever 185 takes the form of a sphere 191 (fig. 32) which fits into a housing made in one end of a lever 193, the other end of which is articulated to a lever 195 (fig. 33). ) mounted idle on a vertical axis 197 and a connecting rod 199 (fig. 34) couples to a cam lever 201 pivoting on a shaft 203. The latter and the shaft 197 are parallel (fig. 32) and run in down and back at an angle of about 20 to the vertical.



  The lever 201 carries a roller 205 which fits into a groove made in the aforementioned part 59.



   The transmissions terminating at lever 201 swing the upper end of the looper across the machine around spindle 181. To impart forward and backward movement to that same end of the looper around spindle 187, lever 193 is moved. formed of two plates installed one above the other as well as above and below a fixed plate 207 (fig. 34) which projects from the front of the head 5 of the machine. A roller 209, attached to the plate s, passes through a slide 211 formed in the plate 207. This slide has a shape such, seen in plan, that it curves a little backwards to the left and a little towards the left. 'front right.

   It follows that when the lever 193 is imparted a left translational movement of the part 59 to rotate

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 the upper end of the looper to the right around the spindle 181, the joint action of the roller 209 and the slide 211 causes said end to oscillate forwardly around the spindle 187 to withdraw it from a position behind that that will occupy the beard of the needle once it reaches the place where the thread will be lying in its beard. it can therefore be seen that, by moving towards the right of the machine, the top of the looper passes in front of the needle following a curvilinear path, the right side of which is once again placed behind the beard of the needle.

   It is understood that the mechanism which has just been described causes the active end of the looper to return along the same path as that which it follows when threading the needle, the particular curve of the slide 211 (seen from above on the right side of the machine) somewhat imitating the shape of an S (fig. 35), the strongest concavity of which is oriented so as to embrace the trajectory of the needle.



   The thread hook 39, which helps the looper 61 to lay the thread in the beard of the needle, is formed on an arm 213 pivoting at 215 on a fixed plate 217. This thread hook and the thread lifter 163, which holds the loop of wire open to allow the nozzle of the shuttle to enter, are illustrated with their operating mechanisms in fig. 2, 13, 44; but being well known, he will not have mentioned it again. we will now describe the device for pulling needle thread from its source of supply below the work, for the formation of each stitch, and to use this thread for the formation of a stitch. stitching at the right time during the operating cycle.

   While unwinding from the supply spool, the wire in question passes through a pitch pot and goes up through a first wire clamp 63 (Fig. 13) mounted on the plate 217, which can be heated. Of the. it passes successively over a roller 235,

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 under a gale t 237 which projects from the wire measuring lever 239, then onto a roller 241 forming part of a second wire clamp described at length below. It then descends to pass around a rotary tensioner 331 and between two rollers 243, 245 and finally rises through the eye of the looper 61.

   The lever 239 pivots on a pin 247 (fig. 13, 14) and is connected by a connecting rod 249 to a double connecting rod 251 fig. 17) articulated to an oscillating console 253 which is bifurcated in order to be able to embrace the double connecting rod 251, the branches of the bifurcation of said console having the same length as the connecting rods 249 and 251. In the rear part of the console are located horizontal pins 255 which are mounted in fixed bearings attached to the head 5 of the machine. On the pivot of the connecting rods 249,251 is wedged a rod 259 coupled to an elbow lever 261 mounted on a spindle 263 and carrying a roller which runs in a cam groove made in a part 265 integral with the shaft 15.

   A sleeve 267, threaded over one of the pins 255, carries a curved finger 269 (fig. 14), a split collar 271 and an indicator 273 (fig. 3) attached thereto, the latter serving to turn said pin relative to the sleeve ( after having loosened the collar 271) in order to adjust the angular position of the console 253 relative to the finger 269 carried by the sleeve. A spring 277 (Fig. 3) attached to an arm 275 of the collar tends to tilt the pin 255 and the sleeve 267 counterclockwise to raise the finger 269 and consequently tilt the console 253.

   Such adjustment of the angular position thereof before starting to sew serves to vary the length of needle thread each time unwound from the supply spool by the thread meter 239, which provides the means of varying the length of the needle thread. depth at which the knots of the stitches will be tight in the work,

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 as also to proportionate to the quantity of thread drawn from the supply source the length of the stitches to be made.



  The spring 277 pushes the finger 269 against a caliper 279 (fig.



  24, 25) connected to the presser foot control lever, the arrangement here being such that the height to which said finger can raise the stirrup depends on the thickness of the work, this thickness consequently determining the position that will take the console 253 by leaning down while the finger 269 goes up. The presser foot is folded back on the work and the console turned down just before the measurement of the thread by the part 239 under the action of its cam 265. When the console 253 leans down, this lowers the thread. pivot of the connecting rod 251 and consequently causes the articulation of the lever 249 to said connecting rod 251 to follow a more horizontal direction than vertical. The thinner the pieces to be sewn, the less the vertical movement imparted to the connecting rod 249 and the less the thread gauge 239 will oscillate.

   The useful amplitude of movement of the thread gauge, hence the length of thread drawn from the source of supply for the formation of each stitch, is thus in direct proportion to the thickness of the work.



   Rollers 235, 241 as well as roller 237 are so widely spaced from each other that the vacuum left on either side of roller 237 is approximately equal to the radius of these three rollers when roller 237 is at its highest point, as it deflects. the wire a little down. As a result, when the roller 237 goes down again, the angle between the portions of wire passing over the rollers decreases gradually. This also causes the amount of thread drawn from the source of supply during the useful movement of lever 239 to gradually increase, such a system tending to tighten the knot of each stitch at the best place in the work, whatever the thickness of the material to be sewn.

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   The thread clamps 63, 85 (fig. 3, 13, 20, 21) help the lever roller 237 to unwind needle thread from the supply spool without pulling thread from the sewing tools at the same time, and they also help. correct use of this needle thread supply during the formation of each stitch. The bottom wire clamp 63 comprises a block 283 mounted on a console 285 integral with the plate 217. A rounded rib 287, formed on the block 283, fits in a corresponding groove of the console 285 to allow said block to oscillate to exert even pressure on the wire.

   A second block, 289, cooperating with the block 283 to clamp the wire and formed on a rod 291 threaded in a sleeve 293 mounted loosely in a boss 295 of the plate 217, is unable to move in the direction of its length. The rod 291, which cannot turn in its housing, carries a rapid thread 297 which engages in a similar thread formed on the inside of the sleeve 293. On one end of the latter is fixed an arm 299 that ' a connecting rod 301 (fig. 2, 14) couples to a rocking lever 303 articulated at 304 to the curved branch 305 of an elbow lever 307 pivoting at 309 and provided with a roller 313 which runs in a groove cam of the disc 59.



   The upper or posterior thread clamp 65 is constituted by a block serving to clamp the thread against the roller 241 and pivoting at 315 on an arm 317 integral with a shaft 319. A second arm, 321, wedged on this same shaft, is connects to a connecting rod 323 coupled from below to the rear end of lever 303 (fig. 14). The lug 57 (fig. 2) of the head of the machine has a boss in which is housed a piston 325 (fig. 14) that a spring 327 pushes upwards against the end of the lever 303 to tilt the block. thread clamp 65 at the bottom and tighten it against the thread passing over the roller 241, and to also tilt the sleeve 293 so as to approach the

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 block 283 block 289. The wire always remains pinched by one or the other of these blocks. Assume that the thread clamp 65 is closed and the thread clamp 63 open.

   The mechanism will then act at the right time during the sewing cycle to lower the pivot 304 and lower the front of the lever 303 faster than said pivot. A little before the latter's arrival at the lower limit of its stroke under the impulse of its cam (for example, when it will have covered approximately half the distance which separates it from this limit), the sleeve 293 will have tilted enough to tighten the block 289 against the block 283. The front of the lever 303 then becoming unable to descend any lower, the continuation of the movement of the pivot 304 will cause the lever 303 in 'Iras and will remove the thread clamp 65 from the wire, the compression of the spring 327 keeping the thread clamp 63 tight against the thread.

   When lever 307 is subsequently rotated clockwise by its cam 59, the rear of lever 303 rotates counterclockwise to lower thread clamp 65 against roller 241, after which the thread is loosened from the lower thread clamp 63 by lever 303, the front end of which continues to rise, A spring 329 (fig. 2), attached to arm 299, helps piston 325 to hold thread clamp 63 in the active position,
The rotary tensioner (fig.

   22, 23, 37, 38), which serves to feed the sewing tools the thread they need for the formation of the sewing stitches, as well as to draw these stitches at the bottom to embed them in the work, has a single roller 331 mounted eccentrically on a pinion 333 likewise mounted on a disc 335 integral with the rotary sleeve 51 which is controlled by a crank 337 to which a connecting rod 339 transmits the movement of the gear train 55.



  The pinion 333 is in turn controlled by a pinion 341 mounted on the shaft 49, the rotation of the sleeve 51 and the movement

 <Desc / Clms Page number 22>

 tilt of said shaft driving roller 331 around it at a constantly varying speed and causing it to follow a closed path which is neither circular nor symmetrical.



   The mechanism used to start the work intermittently in the machine is illustrated in fig. 14, 26, 29. It comprises a work table 161 adapted to oscillate in a horizontal plane, and a presser foot 281 acting jointly with it. Said table is mounted on a support 343 on which is formed an oblong vertical sleeve 345 enveloping a rod 347 whose axis is located in the plane of the awl and the needle, behind the axis thereof. , and which is supported in a fixed ear 349 resting on a ball bearing 351 (Fig. 14). On the support 343 is also formed a shorter sleeve, 353, which embraces the top of the rod 347. On the other hand, a fixed support 355 for this rod projects from the head of the machine forward, between the two aforementioned sleeves.

   The support 343 carries an arm 357 forming a body with it (fig. 29) and articulated by a double rod 359 to a double rod 361. The front ends of the latter pivot on pins 363 between the branches of a bifurcated console 365 threaded on pins 367 located respectively in the top and bottom of said console / so that the connecting rod 361 can swing freely around the pins 363. At the articulation of the connecting rods 361, 359 is connected another connecting rod, 369, which pivots on a lever 371 movable around an axis 373 and bearing on the disc! cam 35, the latter causing table 161 to oscillate around spindle 347 through said connections.

   The branches of the connecting rods 359, 361 and of the console 365 all have the same length, and the mating parts are so proportioned and arranged as when the connecting rod 361 has been turned as far as possible to the left by the cam, the articulation of the

 <Desc / Clms Page number 23>

 connecting rods 361, 359 will coincide with the axis of the pins 367, thus ensuring that the table 161 will invariably occupy, after its movement in the direction of drive of the work, the same position relative to the needle and the awl .



  Fitting console 365 around pins 367 moves joint 363 and causes it to follow a different direction behind connecting rod 361, which determines how much table 161 wobbles around rod 347 and modifies the position that said table will take once it has returned to the point from which it started to drive the work, this backward movement altering the length of the stitches. This adjustment is carried out using one or the other of two levers 375, 377 each provided with a friction locking system and coupled to the console 365. These levers move towards the opposite sides of the machine until the reach of the operator who can thus easily maneuver them, one with the left hand and the other with the right hand.



   In the work-holder face of) the table 161 an opening 369 (fig. 29) is made which is concentric with the axis of the rod 347 and through which pass the needle and the awl. The table and the presser foot 281 begin to pinch the work between them when that one has finished swinging to the right, and they pull it away from such a distance that when the needle and awl enter it, it is held firmly in place by the presser foot which, during the drilling of a hole in the work, prevents it from being pushed back by the awl by pressing on it at a place located very close to the right side of the this, regardless of the length of the training step.



   The presser foot 281 is supported by a part 343 (Fig. 14) from which protrude ears 381 in which is crimped a pin 383 on which pivots the lever 385 to which the presser foot is fixed. The latter overlooks the table to the right of the opening 379

 <Desc / Clms Page number 24>

   (fig. 29). A lug 387, formed on the lever 385, is coupled by a universal joint to a connecting rod 389 (fig.



  14) coupled in the same way to the branch 393 of a caliper 395 mounted idle on a shaft 397, this caliper carrying an arm 399 (fig. 18, 19) connects to the adjoining branch 401 with an angled lever 403 mounted to rotate around tree 397.



  The other branch, 405, of the lever 403 is connected by a rod 407 to a connecting rod 409 (see also fig. 24 and 25) and by a pin 411 to the yoke 279 housed in a slide formed in a block 412 integral with the machine frame.



  It has been said that the spring 277 (fig. 3) tends to raise this stirrup and to push the presser foot towards the work table. now, the connecting rod 409 is coupled by a rod 413 to an angled lever 415, controlled by the cam 265, to raise the presser foot in good time, and the movement imparted to the rod by the cam can be varied by the displacement of a nut 416 housed in a slide 417 of the lever 415.



   The mechanism used to lower the presser foot onto the work is automatically engaged after each descent to combat the pressure exerted from the bottom up on the work by the awl during the drilling of a needle hole .



  To this end, the rear end of the connecting rod 409 is prevented, during the drive of the structure, from performing any movement other than the slight oscillation mentioned above. On the other hand, on the spindle 411 at the front of the connecting rod 409 are mounted idly two jamming plates 419, 421 descending from a fixed block 412 (FIG. 25). These plates, the external faces of which are parallel and the internal faces of which incline with respect to each other, are assembled in 425 by a tongue and groove joint to keep them in relation. On the spindle 411 is also mounted a central corner 425 interposed between the plates 419.421 and of which

 <Desc / Clms Page number 25>

 the opposite dimensions are parallel to the inclined faces of said plates.

   The diameter of the cushion of the wedge 425 slightly exceeds that of the pin 411, and an arcuate blade 427 forming a spring tends to make the wedge 425 go up against the underside of the pin 411, while the outer faces of the plates 419, 421 ( the diameters of the bearings of these plates also slightly exceed that of the pin 411) are pushed down against the top of this pin.



  A relatively fixed bar 429 (FIG. 24) is introduced into the interstice of the corner 425 and of the plate 421; and, between said plate and said corner are installed two rows of steel rollers 431 (fig. 25) which press against bar 429 e4 the diameter of which is such that any two of these rollers are unable to move straight back one of them. the other, so that the rollers of one row abut on the corner 425 and those of the other row on the plate 421.



  Bar 429 is tapered (Fig. 24) and can be advanced or retracted to change the initial setting of the rollers. A finger 433 serving to engage the presser foot is axticulated at 435 and extends rearwardly into the gap between the plate 421 and the corner 425 where it presses on the top of the rollers 431, said finger being provided with an arm 437 which is articulated to a piston. spring 439 (fig. 14) playing in a rod 441 connected to a lever 443 that a cam 445, wedged on the shaft 15 (fig. 4), tilts when the presser foot is to be engaged in the active position.

   The descent of the finger 433 clamps it against the rollers which then exert a strong lateral pressure on the wedge 425 as well as on the plate 421, which pushes the latter against the side of its slide and clamps said wedge against said plate for the keep from going down. Corner 425 is supported laterally by a spacer 447 (fig.



  25). The effectiveness of the foot engagement device

 <Desc / Clms Page number 26>

 de-doe is said that the pads of both the middle corner and adjoining plates into which the pin 441 is threaded have a larger diameter than it, and any tendency of said pin to descend due to the raising of the presser foot lowers the wedge 425 a little relative to the plates 419, 421. This lowering is immediately counteracted by the rollers 431. After each training of the work followed by the raising of the presser foot, the finger 433 is lifted away from the rollers and thereby cause thread meter finger 269 to clamp the presser foot firmly against the work.



   It will be seen that, when the running speed of the machine is slowed down, the presser foot is completely lifted from the work by a lever 669 controlled by a cam 671 (fig.



  42), and then a brake is applied to stop the machine. The lever 669, acting through a rod 449 (fig. 3,14) attached to a tripartite lever 451, releases and raises the presser foot by lowering the piston 439 and holds it away from the work. , When the pedal is lowered to restart the machine, the foot-. de-presser will be folded back over the work and snap into the active position.



   The presser foot can be fitted with a knife 452 to make a shallow engraving in the top face of the work in which the stitches will fit. In this case, the presser foot should only be tight against the work, during its backward movement, just enough to push the knife 452 lightly into the work. To this end, an eccentric coupling is provided which can be used to engage the arm 399 on the lever 403 (fig. 18) when the presser foot, without an engraving knife, must be lifted from the work during its movement. empty return. this coupling, which

 <Desc / Clms Page number 27>

 can, however, be adjusted so that the presser foot rests on the work, consists (fig. 19) of a rotating spindle 455 mounted in the arm 399 and entering an enlarged opening 455 of the adjoining arm 401.

   The spindle 453 carries an eccentric disc 457 whose diameter is smaller than that of said opening, and it also carries a head 459 (FIG. 14) which allows it to be turned. An ear 461, formed on the arm 401, extends to the rear of the arm 399, the arrangement being such that, in the absence of an engraving knife, the disc 457 comes into contact with the front side of the opening. 455 and the ear 461 abuts while the posterior side of the arm 399, which couples the arm rigidly to the lever.

   When the pie-de-bi che is fitted with an engraving knife 452, the eccentric disc 457 can be rotated by about 1800 to create a vacuum between the front side of the opening 455 and the opening disc and allow thus the arm 399 and the lever 385 to advance downward with respect to the lever 403 to hold the presser foot tight against the work by a spring 463 and a piston 465 (fig. 19), notwithstanding the action of lifting exerted by lever 403.



   The machine can also be fitted with an adjustable edge guide 469 (fig. 27) and a knife 511 to make a shallow cut in the underside of the work (for example in the welt) which will serve to hide the seams. stitching points.



   An accessory yarn controller, consisting of a flat spring 525 (fig. 13) attached to the rear of the yarn hook arm 213, grabs the yarn when said arm moves backward by laying the yarn in. beard of the needle, and tightens the thread against the hub of the arm 317 so that the thread remains taut between the looper 61 and the thread hook 39.



   The countershaft 525 (fig. 1, 36) carries fixed and idler pulleys, 531 and 533, and on this same shaft is mounted a small grooved pulley 535 than a belt 537.

 <Desc / Clms Page number 28>

 related to. a relatively large pulley 539 wedged on the shaft 15; and also mounted a grooved pulley of larger diameter 541 than a belt 543 in turn connects to a somewhat smaller pulley 545 (fig. 39) wedged on said shaft 15. To the countershaft is fixed so to be able to turn with it, although capable of moving along its axis, a motor disc 547 surrounded by a copper ring 549 made to tighten against the pulley 541 when said disc is moved backwards, and surrounded also a leather bush 551 made to tighten against pulley 535 when it is moved forward.

   A pin 553, implanted in the disc 547, passes through a slide made in the countershaft.



  On the other hand, the spring-loaded piston 555, housed in the latter shaft, presses on the spindle 553 and normally pushes the motor disc forward until it comes into contact with the pulley 535, so that the latter remains coupled normally. to the countershaft. Pulley 535 is able to slide along the shaft a bit, and when disk 547 is moved up and down the shaft into contact with it, this will clamp pulley 535 against a circular plate 557 integral with the shaft. shaft and surrounded by a leather ring 559, so that said plate remains caught between it and the motor disc when the machine starts.

   To rotate the machine at high speed, the disc 547 is brought into contact with the pulley 541 by the operation of a pedal 561 which a spring 562 normally holds in the air and a connecting rod 563 connects to an arm 565 projecting laterally from a screw 567 which threads itself into and passes right through a fixed sleeve 569 mounted on a bracket 570 resting on the column of the machine. This screw presses from behind against a pin 571 threaded into the countershaft and acco tant on the pin 553.

 <Desc / Clms Page number 29>

 we will see by fig. 39 that the pulley 545 is formed on a campaniform element 573 resting on a disc 575 which is provided with an oblong sleeve 577 enveloping the shaft 15 and which is mounted idle on a sleeve 578.

   Pulley 539 is threaded over disc 575 and Unable to move lengthwise. A radial bolt 579 (fig. 40) passes through the pulley 539 and clamps against the internal face of this pulley a small block 580 housed in a practical recess 581 in the disc 575. This recess is almost twice as long as the block 580, creating by continuation of the clearance between the high speed and low speed pulleys, 545 and 539.



  In the block 580 is implanted an ankle 583 which is introduced into the bifurcated end of a lever 585 whose end inside, cut into a whistle, penetrates into a cavity made in a rod 589 parallel to the shaft 15 and threaded into sleeve 577. Lever 585 rotates around a pivot 591 crimped in part 575. The left end of rod 589 projects beyond shaft 15 and is oriented inwardly across it. here (fig. 39).

   In a bore 593 of the shaft 15 is housed a sliding rod 595 that a spring 597 normally pushes to the right, the left end of this rod bearing a thread to receive nuts 599 which are used to couple it to the rod 589, On a pin 601, integral with the rod 595 and passing through a radial slide of the shaft 15, is mounted a part 603 situated outside the shaft and forming a cam.



   The part 575 has a recess 605 in which the conical face 607 of a clutch member 609 covered with a leather trim and slidably mounted on the shaft 15. The member 609 can be engaged. right (fig.



  39), when the machine is stationary, to tighten it against a clutch ring 611 integral with a console 19. In the inclined groove 615 of the hub 613 of the member 609 is panicked

 <Desc / Clms Page number 30>

 a ring 617 from which project, a little below its axis, rotary pins 619 mounted in a toggle lever 621 enveloping the hub 613. The spherical end 623 of this lever is housed in practical recesses in the opposite ends of the two adjustable screws 665 mounted in the extension of one another in the console 19.

   On a pin 627, located in the lever 621, is threaded a block 629 on which rests another block, 631, constituting a shoulder of the control lever 633 of the clutch. when this shoulder abuts on the block 629, the part 607 of the clutch member remains outside the hollow 605 of the part 575 by overcoming the tension of the springs 635 housed in the hub 613 and pressing on a collar 637 carried by the 'shaft 15, these springs tending to push the clutch member 609 into the hollow 605. Likewise, when the block 631 meets the block 629, this brings the member 609 into contact with the ring 611 and the machine s' stopped.

   On the other hand, when the block 631 moves away from the block 629, the member 609 slides until it engages with the motor disk 575; and, as the pins 619 are against the bottom of the axis of the shaft 15, the lever 621 oscillates at no load around its spherical part 623.



  However, as soon as block 631 is allowed to come alongside on block 629, lever 621 is no longer able to swing to the left. As a result, the clutch member 609 moves away from the disc 575 to stop the machine. Once lever 663 is disengaged from block 629, springs 635 push member 609 to the left to start the machine.



   The lever 633 controlling the clutch is integral with a rotary shaft 639 mounted in the console 19, and it comprises an arm 640 to which is articulated at 641 a spring latch 643. In an arm 645 (fig. 39, 43), fixed to the shaft 639, threads an adjustable screw 647 placed at the

 <Desc / Clms Page number 31>

 meets the upper end of a cam part 649 wedged on a rocking shaft 651 journalled in the console 19. From the shaft 651 projects an arm 653 that a rod 655 connects to the pedal 561 (fig. 1 ). It follows from this arrangement that, during the descent of this pedal, the top of the cam part 649 meets the screw 647, which causes the shaft 639 to tilt in the direction necessary to move the block 631 away from the block 629 and thus allows the clutch member 609 to mate with the drive disc 575.

   On a pin 659, located in the console 19, pivots a lever 657 which carries a roller 661 (fig. 43) controlled by a face 663 of the cam part 649, and which also carries a plate 665 over which the latch 643 is placed when the pedal has finished lowering. At the top of lever 659 is a spherical portion 667 (Fig. 41,42) which fits into a recess in lever 669 forming part of the presser foot mechanism. The lever 669, which comes into contact at different times with the cams 603 and 671 carried by the shaft 15, is integral with a rotating spindle 673 mounted in a block 675 wedged on a rocking shaft 677, so that the lever 669 can oscillate to tilt shaft 677 and also oscillate so as to move its front end along shaft 15.

   A projection 679 of the spindle 673 enters a notch formed in a spring piston 681 housed in the block 675. When against the lever 669 is raised, the piston 681 presses a spindle 683, implanted in the frame of the machine. , to hold the lever in this position.



   When the time has come to stop the machine, the pulley 535 is coupled to the motor disc 547 and begins to rotate with it (fig. 36). Said pulley will cause the pulley 541 to spin empty, which can then move freely around the countershaft. The lever 669 having been lifted by its cam 671 during the previous stop of the machine, the piston

 <Desc / Clms Page number 32>

 681 will hold it in this position and will likewise keep, via shaft 677, the presser foot in the air and the lower thread clamp open, the upper thread clamp having also been opened.

   When the pedal 561 begins to descend, the cam part 649 sorrel from the bottom up and, by the intervention of the lever 657, it swings the lever 669 so as to move it away from its cam 671 and to release the piston 681 to allow said lever to swing and shaft 677 to rotate to lower the presser foot and give the lower thread clamp a chance to close. As the pedal descends further, the top of cam piece 649 meets screw 647 and tilts shaft 639 in the direction necessary to move blocks 631, 639 apart from each other and allow The clutch member 609 is coupled to the drive disc 575, the machine then running at low speed.

   As the pedal moves lower still, cam 649 raises arm 640 further until latch 643 encroaches on plate 665 and until motor disc 547 has slid along shaft 525 to move away from pulley 535 and come into contact with larger pulley 541, the machine now running at high speed. Pulley 539 then rotates because block 580 has entered recess 581, while pulley 535, decoupled from motor disk 547, runs idle. Since the hollow 581 is wider than the block 580, the disc 575 and the pulley 539 make a relative movement around the axis of the shaft 15 as the speed of that shaft increases or decreases, this movement causing the shaft to tilt. lever 585 on its pivot 591 and the bevel formed on the internal end 587 of said lever actuating the rods 589, 595.



  Springs 597 push the rod 595 to the right and hold against the lever 585 a wall of the recess of the rod 589. When the machine is running at high speed, the

 <Desc / Clms Page number 33>

 cam 603 is at the limit of its movement to the right, while it remains at the limit of its movement to the left when the machine is running at low speed.



  In the first case, said cam is removed from under lever 669 and, in the second case, it remains under the front end of this lever and holds it up.



   If, while the machine is running at high speed, the operator wishes to use low speed, he lets the pedal 561 go up just high enough for the motor disc 547 to move away from the pulley 541 and press on the pulley 535. During this change of speed, disc 575 and pulley 539 move relative to each other and cam 603 is mile to the left under the tip of lever 669. While shaft 15 continues to rotate, lever 669 is lifted a little by cam 603, but it is unable to swing sideways, however, due to cam 649 and lever 657 holding it to the left. During the operation of the shaft 15 at low speed, the control lever 633 of the clutch is retained in the inactive position by the grip of the latch 643 with the plate 665.



   When the operator allows the pedal to come up completely, the cam 649 lets go of the lever 657.



  On the other hand, when the cam 603 raises the lever 669, it oscillates to the right over the cam 671 when a lower part of the latter assumes a position which allows it to do so. But when an upper part of the cam 671 passes over the lever 669 during the rotation of that one, the said lever rocks upwards, which turns the shaft 677 in the desired direction to trigger and raise the foot-de- doe as well as to open the lower thread clamp. Lever 669

 <Desc / Clms Page number 34>

 is held up by the piston 681 during any subsequent rotation of the shaft 15. when the lever 669 swings to the right after being raised by the cam 603, it swings the bottom of the lever 657 to the left to remove the plate 665 the latch 643.



  The left end of the clutch control lever can now be lifted by a spring (not shown) to place block 631 in the path of block c 629. The bottom of lever 621 then moves to the left, after what it stops oscillating. As the shaft 15 continues to rotate, the clutch member 609 is decoupled from the disc 575 and brought into frictional contact with the clutch ring 611 to bring the shaft 15 to rest. we therefore have here a mechanism which stops the machine invariably at the same phase of its operating cycle without shaking it excessively, even when the operator suddenly takes his foot off the pedal during high-speed walking.

   The machine is certain to stop exactly at the desired point because the application of the brake is controlled by the ring 617 threaded on the shaft 15, while the maintenance of this ring in the impossibility of functioning as long as said shaft is running at high speed avoids jolts.



  In fact, it is only when the low speed pulley, mounted on the shaft 15, becomes capable of driving the high speed pulley that the block 580 can slide into the recess 581 (fig. 40). to put the machine to rest.

 <Desc / Clms Page number 35>

 



   The mechanism used to move the presser foot away from the work when the machine is stopped is constituted by the aforementioned lever 451 from which an arm 687 (fig. 14) rises, which the rod 449 connects to an arm 689. (fig. 3) integral with the shaft 677, so that the lever 451 swings every time the machine stops. The lever 451 also carries an arm 691 provided with a cam face 693 which presses on a roller 695 surmounting the piston 439. It also carries an arm 697 in which a chin 699 is implanted. An adjustable lever 701 (fig. 15) used to raise the presser foot is mounted on an eccentric disc 703 (fig. 15) wedged on the shaft 685.

   On this lever, which abuts on the lever 451, is formed a muzzle 705 which encroaches on an ear 707 which projects from the connecting rod 407, the lever 701 also carrying a front arm 709 overhanging the chin bar 699.



   When the machine is stopped, the shaft 677 tilts, which causes the lever 451 to turn around the shaft 685, the cam face 693 then passing over the piston 439 to lower it (fig. 14) and lift by following the finger 443 in order to release the jamming plates 419, 421 of the presser foot engaging device, after the chin 699 raises the arm 709 to lower the muzzle 705 and raise the presser foot from the work.

   The disc 703 is armed with a handle 711 (fig. 15, 16) which allows it to be turned in one direction or the other to raise or lower the lever 701 all in one piece in order to vary the amplitude of the movement. rocking movement imparted there by the chin 699 during the oscillation of the lever 451, and thus raise the presser foot, during the stopping of the machine, to a greater or lesser height according to the thickness of the When the pieces to be sewn are thin, the lever 701 should be adjusted so as to prevent the presser foot from rising too high, otherwise the spring 277 will cause it to strike the piece too hard.

 <Desc / Clms Page number 36>

 by lowering himself on it.

   In the handle 711 is housed a spring piston 713 movable above a toothed sector 715 and serving to retain the handle in the position given to it. The lever 451 is also provided with a handle 717 (fig. 2,3) by means of which said lever can be tilted so as to raise the presser foot when the time has come to remove the presser foot. machine work.



   In the rear end of the arm 299 forming part of the loosening mechanism of the lower thread clamp 63, is implanted an ankle 719 (fig. 14) which engages in a slide made in the top of a rod 721 coupled to an elbow lever. 723 pivoting at 725 on the left side of the ear 57 (fig. 2). A rod 727 connects the lever 723 to an arm 729 (fig. 3) secured to the shaft 677. During the rotation of the latter when the machine is stopped, the sleeve 293 turns to loosen the thread clamp 63, and the clutch shoe 65, which is above the roller 241 at this time, rises higher. Thus, the two thread clamps remain open when the machine is stopped, the thread then being able to be pulled freely through said thread clamp and the operator being able to remove the work from the machine before cutting the threads. son.



   In order to lubricate and heat various parts of the machine, suitable devices constructed preferably like those shown in fig. 13, 37, 38.



   We will now explain, with reference to fig. 44-50, how the various tools of the present machine behave with respect to each other by sewing a second sole to a welt already attached to its boot.



   Fig. 44 shows the pieces in the positions they occupy during the pulling of the needle thread loop from the bottom up through the work; fig. 45 and 46 in turn show 'the presser foot and the work table after they

 <Desc / Clms Page number 37>

 have started to pull the structure to the left; fig. 47 illustrates the pulling of the needle thread loop up and down through the work towards the end of the feed movement;

   fig. 48 and 49 show the machine at rest and the presser foot 281 in the air; finally, fig. 50 is a graph whose ordinates denote the degrees of rotation of the shaft 15 counted from its stopping point, and whose abscissas indicate as follows the nature of the movements made by the various tools during the formation of a sewing:
Line A-A, movements of the needle guide;
 EMI37.1
 
<tb>
<tb> "<SEP> B-B, <SEP>" <SEP> "<SEP> from <SEP> the needle;
<tb> "<SEP> C-C, <SEP>" <SEP> "<SEP> awl;
<tb> "<SEP> D-D, <SEP>" <SEP> "<SEP>! 'ascent <SEP> of the <SEP> presser foot;
<tb> "<SEP> EE, <SEP>" <SEP> "<SEP> work-drive <SEP> from <SEP> crowbar <SEP> and <SEP> from <SEP> the <SEP> table < SEP> book holder <SEP>;

   <SEP>
<tb> "<SEP> F-F, <SEP>" <SEP> of the <SEP> interlocking device <SEP>
<tb> of the <SEP> presser foot;
<tb> "<SEP> G-G, <SEP>" <SEP> "<SEP> of the <SEP> lifter;
<tb> "<SEP> H-H, <SEP>" <SEP> "<SEP> <SEP> meter <SEP> of <SEP> wire;
<tb> "<SEP> I-I, <SEP>" <SEP> "<SEP> of the <SEP> thread clamp;
<tb> "<SEP> J-J, <SEP>" <SEP> from <SEP> hook <SEP> to <SEP> yarn <SEP>;
<tb> "<SEP> K-K, <SEP>" <SEP> "<SEP> spring <SEP> from <SEP> hook <SEP> to <SEP> thread;
<tb> "<SEP> L-L, <SEP>" <SEP> transversal <SEP> of sulky <SEP>;
<tb> "<SEP> M-M, <SEP>" <SEP> before <SEP> and <SEP> rear <SEP> of the <SEP> looper;
<tb> "<SEP> N-N, <SEP>" <SEP> of the <SEP> tensioner;
<tb> "<SEP> 0-0, <SEP>" <SEP> of <SEP> the <SEP> shuttle;

  
<tb> "<SEP> PP, <SEP>" <SEP> of <SEP> foot <SEP> presser <SEP> and <SEP> of <SEP> thread clamp <SEP> 63 <SEP> during <SEP> l ' stop <SEP> of <SEP> the
<tb> machine.
<tb>
 The X-X line designates the surface of the work table.

 <Desc / Clms Page number 38>

 



   After placing the shoe correctly on its support table 161, the operator presses the pedal 561 to fold down and engage the presser foot 281 on the work flush with the needle and the awl, the lower thread clamp 63 then being able to close. Shaft 15 will now be started and will rotate first at low speed, then at high speed.



  Needle 67 begins by rising to its highest point a (line BB), after which it descends quite rapidly to its lowest point b (line BB) and, while its beard remains below the work, the thread is lying in it by the looper. -The needle then goes up to its highest point along path b-c (line B-B), it goes down along path c-d where it remains above table 161 while the machine finishes making a stitch.



  The successive positions of the needle guide 37 are indicated at a, b, c, d, e (line A-A).



   The awl 69 rises as soon as the machine starts and it begins to drill the work at a (line C-C). It continues to climb to its highest point b where. it remains until the needle, having reached the upper limit of its travel, descends a little towards the work, the awl (the point of which is very close to that of the needle) then begins to move. descend in turn to exit the work between c and d (line CC) at approximately the same speed as that at which the needle descends.

   Then, shortly after the needle begins to rise from its lowest point to pull the loop of thread up and down in the work, the awl (the point of which is still below the work) is lifted a bit between and d (CC line) in order to allow the needle segment to swing back as much as needed to bring the needle to the top ... of its stroke without hitting the segment of the awl.

 <Desc / Clms Page number 39>

 



   The presser foot 281 remains tight against the work until the shaft 15 has reached point a (line DD) of its rotation, after which it gradually rises and begins to move back with the table 161 on the along the path ab (line EE). When it has almost reached the upper limit of its upward movement, its locking mechanism 419-421-425 (which prevents it from being rail up and down by the awl) begins to let go between a andb ( line FF).



  As soon as it reaches its highest point, the presser foot begins to fall again on the work and it comes to press elastically on it at c (row DD) as soon as it has finished going back with the table 161 The mechanism for engaging the presser foot will come into play as it descends from b to c (line FF) towards the work and, as the presser foot and the table cooperating with it will be stationary. backward movement completed, the piece will remain clamped firmly between them.

   When the shaft 15 has turned approximately 196, the presser foot and table will advance the work at as constant a speed as possible so that a stitch is formed and tightened to the left of the plane of the needle while the di t shaft rotates from c to d (line EE), that is to say up to about six degrees from the point where it completes a complete revolution on itself, after which said foot and table will remain stationary, the foot then lying very close to the plane of the needle and the awl and remaining in this position; tight against the work until it is lifted again during the formation of the next stitch.

   When the feed movement imparted to the work by the presser foot and the table cooperating with it is half finished, the cam lever 415 for lifting the presser foot gives it a gradual movement of the presser foot. ble amplitude to bring it closer to the structure and thus counterbalance the lifting action

 <Desc / Clms Page number 40>

 that the connecting rod 389 of the presser foot would otherwise exert during the last half of the driving movement imparted to the work. Thread lift 163 does not come into play until after the needle has drawn a loop of thread from the bottom up through the work, and it remains lowered and retracted in the inactive position until after the needle has started. to go up.

   However, the lifter will then begin to oscillate from a to b (row GG) i.e. forward and bottom to top to grab the right side of the loop of wire held by the needle; it continues to oscillate in this way up to b (line GG) to open said loop in order to let the nozzle of the shuttle enter it and, when the nozzle of the shuttle is engaged with the wire, it goes back down , as indicated, from b to c.



   Thread is unwound from the feed spool at about halfway through the sewing cycle with the thread measuring lever 239 remaining at its highest point until the presser foot is engaged in the position where it is tight against the work. After this engagement which automatically determined the amplitude of oscillation to be imparted to the lever 239 for the thickness of the work on which the presser foot rests, the cam of the lever 239 is turned down from a to b ( line HH) to pull wire from its source of supply.



   The lower thread clamp 63 remains tight against the thread as the shaft 15 makes approximately the first twenty degrees of its revolution, after which the thread clamp 63 opens and the thread clamp 65 closes between a and b ( line II) and, at about halfway between these points, the two thread clamps remain tight against the thread for a moment. The thread clamp 63 must be opened before the lever 239 is brought into play so that this lever can unwind thread from the supply spool. It remains open and the thread clamp 65 remains closed until the lever 239 has finished pulling the

 <Desc / Clms Page number 41>

 wire. Immediately thereafter, the thread clamp 65 begins to open between c and d (line I-I) as the thread clamp 63 tightens against the thread.

   As the thread clamps move in this way, lever 239 pauses between b and .2 (line H-H); May before the thread pin 63 has completely closed, the lever 239 begins to move up from c to d (line H-H) in order to unwind thread to form a stitch.



   The thread hook 39, which only moves forward and backward, is moved from a to b (row JJ) backwards to grab the thread and pull on it, and it stays back while the looper passes in front of the thread. needle, across it.



  Said hook then moves by .9. to d forward to release the thread, and it remains inactive until the end of the cycle.



  Flat spring 535 moves back from a to b (line K-K) with the wire hook to clamp the wire against the arm hub 317 and tighten it further. The thread will then have been laid in the beard of the needle by the sulky person. The spring 523 then advances from .2 to d (line K-K) with the thread hook for $ 1 dear for the thread and stay away from it until the end of the cycle. Shortly after the machine has been demarcated, the looper 61 begins to pull out of the front awl by moving backwards and to the left between !! and b (lines L-L and M-M).

   It then moves forward between c and! (line M-M) and to the right between. ± and d (line L-L). Once just in front of the needle, having then laid the thread in the beard of the needle, it moves between d and e (line MM) to resume its most remote position, then it moves from 2. to f to once again occupy its front position.



   Continuing his movement to the right, the sulky passes across the front of the needle, after which he

 <Desc / Clms Page number 42>

 moves from d to e (line L-L to the left until it is again in front of the trajectory of the awl.



  It remains in this position for most of the remainder of the machine's duty cycle, but begins to move to the left in a barely noticeable way at the end of the cycle. The portion of thread between the looper and the work can therefore not be pierced by the awl during the raising of the latter. Fig. 35 indicates by a broken line X-X the path followed by the eye of the looper in moving relative to the needle and seen here perpendicular to the general plane of movement of said eye. In this same figure, Y indicates the position in which the needle intersects this plane, and Z the position in which, as we have already seen, the eye of the looper remains immobilized for about the last hundred and sixty - ten degrees of shaft rotation 15.



     It is by virtue of the particular movement imparted to the looper that the coating of the thread in the beard of the needle takes place without the eye of said looper completely passing around the path of the needle. In addition, the two branches of the loop of thread drawn at the top by the needle do not cross, so that the strands of the thread are less likely to be separated from each other, not to mention that the seam once completed has a much better appearance.



   During each sewing cycle after forming the first stitch, the tensioner roller 331 completes the tightening of the knot of the stitch formed last in the work (while the lower thread clamp remains tight against the thread while the thread clamp is away), this tightening of the point taking place at a (line NN), that is to say after the shaft 15 has turned by about 10, this point a indicating the quantity of thread delivered by said roller and pulled down to tighten the point. Of course, before this tightening, the work will have been moved away from the place where the seam is done.

 <Desc / Clms Page number 43>

 



   As soon as the roller 331 has passed the place where the point is tightened, it begins to rise from a to b (line NN) towards the work but at a rather slow pace, in order to allow the looper to move back and to the left at the start of the cycle, without tiring the looper or the thread.

   While the looper makes its curvilinear motion in front of the needle to lay the thread in the barb of the needle, and as the thread hook feeds the thread back to the left of the needle, the tension roller rises from b to c to get closer to the work and begins to cut the thread a little faster so that the various tools can handle it without overtensioning it, Once the loop of thread is lying in the beard of the needle and when it- This begins to rise quickly to pull the said loop into the work and allow the buckle lifter to open it to let the spout of the shuttle enter it, the tensioner roller moves even closer to the work by moving .2. to d etdbit the wire at an increasing speed.



  After the aforementioned bee has entered the loop of thread and as soon as it begins to lift it over the body of the shuttle, it is necessary for the tensioner to feed the thread very quickly in order to allow the loop to pass easily. over the shuttle. To achieve this result, the tensioner roller moves quickly from d to e to get closer to the underside of the work and to feed the wire at an increasing speed.

   As soon as the loop of thread has passed over the highest part of the shuttle, the tensioner roller descends to move away from the work and continues to do this during the rest of the cycle in order to pull the thread sharply downwards through- above the shuttle and then pull in the same direction, by means of the needle thread loop, a portion of the thread emerging from the shuttle to bring it into contact with the work in preparation for tightening the knot

 <Desc / Clms Page number 44>

 from the point in the structure during the next machine operating cycle, 0 'is indicated by the very steep part of the N-N line to the right of e ..



   The shuttle 47 occupies an angular position such that, during the rest of the machine, its beak is located just to the left of the low point of its travel. Seen from the front, it turns anti-clockwise and the first of its two revolutions is carried out empty, that is to say without its beak engaging the wire; but, during the second revolution, said nozzle enters the loop of wire which the lifter 163 holds open to receive it, as indicated in a (line 0-0), after which it turns at an accelerated speed to pass said loop over the shuttle, where the tensioner drops the loop from the head boat at point b.



   Once the sole has been sewn around the entire circumference of the shoe, the operator lets the pedal go up to disengage the machine, the front of lever 669 then being lifted from a to b, (line pp) by cam 603 and then oscillating. from b to c to the right along the shaft 15 until the end of the lever comes to rest on its cam 671. The lever 669 and the shaft 677 now swing to raise the presser foot 281 and loosen the thread clamp 63. Immediately after one complete revolution of the shaft 15, the presser foot is raised, as shown in d, after which the shaft 15 is automatically disengaged and stopped.



  During the last operating cycle of the machine, the thread clamp 63 opens at point e which marks the first part of the rocking movement of the shaft 677.


    

Claims (1)

ABSTRACT The invention relates to a machine for sewing second soles at the shuttle stitch, or other shoemaking machine, characterized by any one of the following points or all of these points: - @ <Desc / Clms Page number 45> the- A point-form and start-work mechanism having, in combination: - a curved needle with a beard and a curved awl mounted so as to always operate in the same plane, on each side of the work; a crowbar; a book holder; a driving carriage movable back to front and front to back on the training line and carrying the crowbar and the work holder; a mechanism for operating the presser foot, this mechanism comprising an articulated lever, as well as connections connecting this lever to the presser foot and becoming active when the lever is moved in opposite directions to raise and lower the foot- de-bicje; a movable support to which the lever is articulated; a spring acting to clamp the presser foot against the work when the support is released; finally, means for engaging and triggering the support during the formation of each stitch; 2 - A following mechanism 1 in which the drive carriage is pivotally mounted and derives its movement from a shaft through connections comprising an oscillating rod and means for adjusting the fulcrum of said rod around from a center if killed in the extension of the other end of the connecting rod to a limit of its oscillating movement, in order to vary the amplitude of the driving movements imparted to the aforesaid carriage; 3 - a mechanism used to tighten the presser foot against the work and to loosen it; means for holding the presser foot in place constituted by an engagement wedge coupled thereto, and by a wedge-shaped piece also coupled to the presser foot but capable of performing a small longitudinal movement relative to the wedge; finally, a slide in which the wedge and the wedge-shaped piece are mounted, and means to prevent them from moving with respect to each other, as well as with respect to said slide; <Desc / Clms Page number 46> 4 - A following mechanism 3 in which the locking means of the engagement wedge and of the wedge-shaped piece consist of jam rollers interposed between them and subjected to a pressure which tightens them so as to prevent the wedge and the wedge-shaped piece from move with respect to each other, as well as with respect to said slide; 5 - A control mechanism for the presser foot comprising: - an articulated lever; a movable support on which this lever pivots; spring acting so as to push the presser foot against the work when the support is released, means for blocking the movement of the support in one direction or the other, these means comprising two wedge-shaped plates mounted on said support of so as to be able to effect a slight longitudinal movement relative to it and provided over their entire length with parallel external faces and converging internal faces; a slide. for said plates; a coactive central wedge mounted on said support so as to be able to perform a small longitudinal movement relative to it and provided with faces parallel to the convergent faces of the plates; yielding or elastic means tending to push the central wedge and the wedge-shaped plates longitudinally in opposite directions; jam rollers interposed between said wedge and one of the wedge-shaped plates; finally, means for exerting pressure on said rollers to prevent wedge and plates from making relative movement between them and also to prevent them from moving in said slider; 6 - A machine according to any one of the preceding claims provided with an engraving knife adapted to the presser foot, as well as means for maintaining the presser foot in contact with the work during the retraction of the carriage d 'training; 7 - A mechanism used to actuate the presser foot so as to make it clamp the work against the work holder during the advancement of the drive carriage, and so <Desc / Clms Page number 47> also to make him hold the presser foot in the air during the recoil of the said carriage while the awl is inserted in the work, and means allowing to thus adjust this mechanism which the presser foot will exert elastic pressure on the work during the aforementioned re-ass of the training carriage; 8 - A control for the work-drive and point-formers devices comprising continuously running vertical shafts arranged horizontally and vertically and suitably connected to the work-drive and point-formers devices; 9 - Next machine 8 provided with continuous running horizontal shafts installed below and behind the place where the sewing is done, and a continuous running vertical shaft installed at the rear and on one side said point of operation; between said horizontal shafts and said drive-work and form-points devices, transmissions serving to actuate some of these devices; cams wedged on said vertical shaft; finally, between these cams and said devices, transmissions serving to actuate some others of said devices; 10 - A following machine 8 or 9 in which the needle and the awl derive their useful movements from horizontal shafts, while the shuttle borrows its own from a vertical shaft; 11 - A motor mechanism for the needle and the awl comprising: -two shafts adapted to turn in opposite directions; two cranks on one of these trees; active connections between one of these cranks and the needle; active connections between the other of these cranks and the awl; two cranks on the other shaft; between one of the latter cranks and the connections leading to the needle, <Desc / Clms Page number 48> connections serving to modify the movements imparted to it by the tree mentioned in the first place; finally, between the other of the cranks of the second shaft, connections leading to the awl and serving to modify the movements imparted therein by the first shaft; 12 - A following mechanism 11 in which the modifying connections include an oscillating lever mounted on one of the cranks of a shaft, as well as connections starting from this lever and connecting it to the needle and the awl as well as 'to another crank of the other shaft; 13 - A machine following 11 and 12 danw in which the second shaft turns in the opposite direction to the first shaft and (or) twice as fast as it; 14 - A machine according to any preceding claim provided with consoles if killed on each side of s segments of the needle and the awl and in which these segments are mounted concentrically, and also provided with means for adjusting said segments relative to each other along their axis in order to place the needle in line with the awl; 15 - A thread puller serving to deliver the desired quantity of thread to the sewing tools under the action of means comprising an oscillating rod and active connections connecting the rod to the thread puller and brought into play by the latter; other active connections deriving their movement from the presser foot and serving to adjust the pivot point of the connecting rod around a center to bring it in line with the other end of the connecting rod once it has arrived to a limit of its oscillatory movement and thereby vary the amplitude of the movements of the thread puller according to the thickness of the work between the work holder and the presser foot; 16 A looper adapted to move across and through the path followed by the needle and the awl in <Desc / Clms Page number 49> threading this one, and returning by the same path after this threading, said looper being actuated so as to remain in front of the path of the awl Bandant that it is inserted into the work and to ensure that the portion of thread between the looper and the needle will not come into contact with the awl; 17 - A next machine 16 provided with a tensioner serving to pull the thread through the looper and in which each stitch is tight in the work while the looper keeps the position indicated so as not to be tired ; 18 - A needle threading mechanism established according to any preceding claim comprising: a looper-holder lever provided, at one of its ends, with a thread guide eye and articulated so as to be able to swing around two axes forming a right angle between them; a block, pivotally mounted, carrying the looper lever and adapted to tilt about an axis forming a right angle with the pivot of said block; a motor lever capable of performing an oscillatory movement and a longitudinal translational movement in a plane parallel to the axes of the block and the looper lever; finally, a pivotal connection between said motor lever and the end of the looper holder lever furthest from the looper thread guide eye; 19 - A posterior thread gripper which remains closed during the work of the sewing tools, and an anterior thread gripper which remains closed during the flow of the thread, these two thread grippers being connected together by connections whose putting into play opens one of the thread clamps only when the other closes; 20 - A device acting, when the machine is stopped, so as to raise the presser foot, said device being able to be adjusted by the operator, using means if killed within his reach, to vary the degree of presser foot lift; <Desc / Clms Page number 50> 21 - The presser foot lifting device comprises a motor / constant stroke motor, a presser foot lift lever on which the motor lever engages, and finally an eccentric on which the foot lift lever pivots -deeer and which can be adjusted by hand; 22 A starting and stopping mechanism having, in combination: - a controlled shaft; a main clutch; a mechanism for actuating this clutch at high and low speed; means for using low speed after high speed; finally, means, controlled by said shaft while it is running at low speed, for rendering the main clutch inactive; 23 - A following mechanism 22 provided with frictionless clutches function respectively at high and low speed; a pedal; transmissions controlled by the pedal and operative to make the high speed clutch active when the low speed clutch becomes inactive, and to make the low speed clutch active when the high speed clutch becomes inactive; finally, controlled means of said pedal to interrupt the operation of the main clutch when the low speed clutch is made inactive. 24 - A vibratory member taking its movement from a controlled shaft and cooperating with it to interrupt the operation of the main clutch when it is prevented from vibrating; a latch serving to block the vibratory movement of said organ; high and low speed mechanisms for actuating the clutch; finally, means controlled by the mechanism at low speed and half in play by the shaft to bring the latch into engagement with the vibratory member. @