WO2020138150A1 - Composition pour former un cristal liquide, émulsifiant contenant un cristal liquide, et produit cosmétique contenant un cristal liquide qui est crémeux ou similaire à un film - Google Patents

Composition pour former un cristal liquide, émulsifiant contenant un cristal liquide, et produit cosmétique contenant un cristal liquide qui est crémeux ou similaire à un film Download PDF

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WO2020138150A1
WO2020138150A1 PCT/JP2019/050781 JP2019050781W WO2020138150A1 WO 2020138150 A1 WO2020138150 A1 WO 2020138150A1 JP 2019050781 W JP2019050781 W JP 2019050781W WO 2020138150 A1 WO2020138150 A1 WO 2020138150A1
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liquid crystal
film
mass
cosmetic
content
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PCT/JP2019/050781
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English (en)
Japanese (ja)
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ハッジャジ，ファティン
寛花 丸山
摂司 小山
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ちふれホールディングス株式会社
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Priority to KR1020217007769A priority Critical patent/KR20210109516A/ko
Publication of WO2020138150A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020138150A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0295—Liquid crystals
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42—Amides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/55—Phosphorus compounds
    • A61K8/553—Phospholipids, e.g. lecithin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/68—Sphingolipids, e.g. ceramides, cerebrosides, gangliosides
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin

Definitions

  • liquid crystal has a structure such as a lamella phase, a hexagonal phase, and a cubic phase. Materials with a liquid crystal structure are widely used in cosmetics and personal care products because of their cosmetic benefits.
  • the lamellar liquid crystal droplets (lamellar lipids) in the cosmetic can be stably immobilized on the skin surface at a high concentration, a continuous sheet of lamellar lipids, that is, a liquid crystal film can be formed.
  • the presence of the concentrated lamellar lipid aggregates forming such a liquid crystal film simultaneously brings sufficient moisturizing function and excellent film barrier function to the skin, which is very useful.
  • emulsifiers mainly surfactants and polar lipids are used.
  • surfactants indirectly cause skin irritation by breaking the lipid barrier of the skin.
  • polar lipids are usually natural membrane lipids such as ceramide and sterol, and these have the problems of low solubility and high crystallinity.
  • Patent Document 1 As an emulsifier for forming a liquid crystal, for example, the following Patent Document 1 (the entire description of which is incorporated herein by reference) includes a sterol, a polyglycerin fatty acid ester, and lecithin as essential components for forming a liquid crystal. Emulsifiers are mentioned.
  • Patent Document 1 by using the emulsifier described in Patent Document 1, a liquid crystal structure similar to interkeratinocyte lipid is formed, and the liquid crystal structure is stably maintained even while being applied to the skin, and high skin care is achieved. There is a description that it is possible to produce a cosmetic that exerts an effect and is easily formulated.
  • a film-forming polymer When a cosmetic containing a liquid crystal is applied on the skin to form a liquid crystal film, it may be possible to incorporate a film-forming polymer in order to impart adhesiveness, elasticity and spreadability to the formed film. .. Many of the film-forming polymers used in such cosmetics are water-soluble, and in the cosmetic using the emulsifier described in Patent Document 1 in which the amount of water to be blended is limited, such a water-soluble film is used. It is difficult to incorporate the forming polymer.
  • Patent Document 1 a large amount of a surfactant such as higher alcohol is always used in the emulsifier described in Patent Document 1. This is in excess of ingredients such as lecithin and phytosterols. Such high amounts of surfactant can be irritating to the skin. Further, a cosmetic material containing a large amount of a surfactant such as higher alcohol may cause a problem that it remains white like soap when rubbed on the skin during application.
  • the residue due to the constituents cannot be observed by dispersing in the solvent, and the liquid crystal can be contained in the state where the constituents are uniformly melted, and further, it can be contained together with various film-forming polymers.
  • the present invention provides a composition that can be used for preparing a cosmetic that stably holds a liquid crystal structure in a liquid state in a container and in a film shape on the skin, and an emulsifier and a cosmetic agent using the composition. This is a problem to be solved by the invention.
  • a cosmetic obtained by combining an emulsifier containing the above three components and a solvent with various film-forming polymers exists in a liquid state in a container and stably maintains a liquid crystal structure.
  • a cosmetic obtained by combining an emulsifier containing the above three components and a solvent with various film-forming polymers exists in a liquid state in a container and stably maintains a liquid crystal structure.
  • it was applied on the skin it existed in the form of a film and could stably maintain the liquid crystal structure.
  • an emulsifier is prepared by using a composition containing the above-mentioned three components, further using an aqueous solvent as a solvent used when preparing an emulsifier, and using a water-soluble film-forming polymer as the film-forming polymer.
  • a film-forming polymer By covering with a film-forming polymer, the lamellar liquid crystal droplets, which are similar to intercellular lipids, can be prevented by preventing aggregation of lamella liquid crystal droplets due to solvent evaporation and concentration, shearing during application, and destruction of liquid crystal due to mixing of sweat and sebum. It is possible to prepare a cosmetic that forms a film that is immobilized at a high concentration.
  • the present inventors provide a composition containing an amphipathic lipid, a sterol, and a linear saturated fatty acid, and an emulsifier and a cosmetic using the composition. I succeeded in creating it.
  • the present invention has been completed based on the above findings and successful examples.
  • compositions containing an amphipathic lipid, a sterol, and a linear saturated fatty acid.
  • the amphipathic lipid is at least one amphipathic lipid selected from the group consisting of lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, ceramide and phosphatidylcholine, according to any one of [1] to [2].
  • Composition Composition.
  • Amphipathic lipid 38% by mass to 70% by mass, sterol 5% by mass to 40% by mass, linear saturated fatty acid 10% by mass to 45% by mass, and in a solid state at 25° C.
  • a composition for forming a liquid crystal is described in a solid state at 25° C.
  • a liquid crystal-containing emulsifier containing the composition according to any one of [1] to [6] and a solvent [8] The emulsifier according to [7], wherein the solvent is at least one solvent selected from the group consisting of water, polyhydric alcohols, alcohols, ester oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and vegetable oils. [9] The emulsifier according to any one of [7] to [8], wherein the content of the solvent is 50% by mass to 90% by mass. [10] The liquid crystal forming composition according to any one of [1] to [6] and at least one selected from the group consisting of polyhydric alcohols, alcohols, ester oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and vegetable oils.
  • a liquid crystal-containing cosmetic containing a seed solvent, a film-forming polymer, and water.
  • a liquid crystal-containing cosmetic composition comprising a liquid crystal-forming composition containing an amphipathic lipid, a sterol and a linear saturated fatty acid, and a liquid crystal-containing emulsifier containing a polyhydric alcohol, a film-forming polymer, and water.
  • the content of the emulsifier is 5% by mass to 15% by mass
  • the content of the film-forming polymer is 2% by mass to 10% by mass
  • the content of the water is 80% by mass.
  • the said cosmetics which are -90 mass %.
  • a liquid crystal-forming composition containing an amphipathic lipid, a sterol and a linear saturated fatty acid, and a liquid crystal-containing emulsifier containing a polyhydric alcohol, a film-forming polymer, and a cream-like liquid crystal containing water.
  • the cosmetic wherein the content of the film-forming polymer is 2% by mass to 10% by mass.
  • the amphipathic lipid is at least one amphipathic lipid selected from the group consisting of lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, ceramide, and phosphatidylcholine. [12] to [14].
  • the following compositions, emulsifiers and cosmetics of [A1] to [A9] are provided.
  • [A1] A liquid crystal forming composition containing an amphipathic lipid, a sterol, and a linear saturated fatty acid.
  • [A3] The composition according to any one of [A1] to [A2], wherein the lecithin and the hydrogenated lecithin are lecithin and hydrogenated lecithin each having a phosphatidylcholine content of 20% by mass or more.
  • [A4] Any of [A1] to [A3], in which the content of the amphipathic lipid is greater than the content of the sterol, or is greater than the content of the linear saturated fatty acid.
  • [A5] A liquid crystal-containing emulsifier containing the composition according to any one of [A1] to [A4] and a solvent.
  • [A6] The emulsifier according to [A5], wherein the solvent is a polyhydric alcohol or water.
  • the content of the emulsifier is 5% by mass to 20% by mass
  • the content of the film-forming polymer is 2% by mass to 10% by mass
  • the content of the water is 80% by mass to
  • the cosmetic has a cream-like form when the water content is 50% or more, or a film-like form when the water content is 50% or less, and contains a stable liquid crystal phase.
  • a liquid crystal material and a film-forming polymer which show an improved moisturizing ability, have high biocompatibility, and have an excellent touch to human skin.
  • a composite film of is obtained.
  • the cosmetic material of one embodiment of the present invention forms a stable liquid crystal phase in a wide range of cosmetic solvents, and may further contain a mixture of structures and structures similar to intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum.
  • FIG. 2A2 is a diagram showing the results of wide-angle X-ray scattering analysis relating to the liquid crystal structure in a cream state containing a large amount of water before skin application for the cosmetic material of Example 1 as described in Examples. is there.
  • FIG. 2B1 is a result of a small-angle X-ray scattering analysis regarding a liquid crystal structure in a film formed by spontaneous evaporation of water for 8 hours after skin application for the cosmetic material of Example 1 as described in Example.
  • FIG. FIG. 2B2 is a result of wide-angle X-ray scattering analysis regarding a liquid crystal structure in a film formed by spontaneous evaporation of water for 8 hours after skin application for the cosmetic material of Example 1 as described in Example.
  • FIG. 2C1 is a result of a small-angle X-ray scattering analysis regarding a liquid crystal structure in a film formed by spontaneous evaporation of water 8 hours after skin application for the cosmetic material of Comparative Example 1 as described in Example.
  • FIG. 2C2 is a result of wide-angle X-ray scattering analysis regarding a liquid crystal structure in a film formed by spontaneous evaporation of water 8 hours after skin application for the cosmetic material of Comparative Example 1 as described in Example.
  • FIG. FIG. 3 is a polarization microscope observation photograph relating to the liquid crystal forming properties of the emulsifiers of Examples 13 to 14 and the emulsifier of Comparative Example 6 as described in the examples.
  • FIG. 4A is a diagram showing the results of comparing the cosmetics of Example 1 and the cosmetics of Comparative Example 1 with respect to in-vivo moisturizing properties as described in Examples.
  • FIG. 4B is a diagram showing the results of comparing the cosmetics of Example 11 and the cosmetics of Comparative Example 5 with respect to the in-vivo moisturizing properties as described in the Examples.
  • FIG. 5: is a figure which shows the result of having compared the cosmetics of Example 1 with the cosmetics of Comparative Example 1 regarding the occlusive property as described in the Examples.
  • FIG. 6 is a diagram showing the results of comparing the cosmetics of Example 1 and the cosmetics of Comparative Example 1 with respect to the adhesiveness as described in the Examples.
  • the term "and/or” means any one of the listed plurality of related items, or any combination or all of two or more of the related items.
  • the “content” is synonymous with the concentration and means the ratio of the amount of the component to the total amount of the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic.
  • the unit of content means “mass% (wt %)”. However, the total content of the components does not exceed 100% by mass.
  • “to” is a range including numerical values before and after the numerical range.
  • “0% by mass to 100% by mass” means 0% by mass or more and 100% by mass or less. Means a range.
  • composition of one embodiment of the present invention contains at least an amphipathic lipid, a sterol, and a straight-chain saturated fatty acid as constituent components of liquid crystal (hereinafter, also referred to as liquid crystal component).
  • liquid crystal component an amphipathic lipid, a sterol, and a straight-chain saturated fatty acid as constituent components of liquid crystal (hereinafter, also referred to as liquid crystal component).
  • the composition of one embodiment of the present invention only needs to contain a liquid crystal component, and need not contain a surfactant that causes skin irritation.
  • the liquid crystal component can be selected from natural components, it is possible to be compatible with the skin and form a structure and structure similar to the intercellular lipid in the stratum corneum.
  • lecithin and hydrogenated lecithin include, for example, “LIPOID P75” (manufactured by H-Holstein), “Basis LP-20H” (manufactured by Nisshin OilliO Group), “Basis LS-60HR” (Nissin OilliO).
  • Ceramide is not particularly limited as long as it is a sphingolipid composed of sphingosine and a fatty acid.
  • ceramide 1, ceramide 2, ceramide 3, ceramide 3B, ceramide 4, ceramide 5, ceramide 6, ceramide 6I, ceramide 6II and these And the like, and ceramide 3, ceramide 3B, ceramide 4, ceramide 6II and a mixture thereof are preferable from the viewpoint of being a major lipid constituting the cell membrane of skin cells.
  • ceramides include, for example, “CERAMIDE 2" (made by Croda Japan), “CERAMIDE I” (made by Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH), “CERAMIDE III” (made by Evonik Nutrition&CareEmbC, IDC RAM). IIIB” (manufactured by Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH), “CERAMIDE VI” (manufactured by Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH), “CERAMIDE TIC-001” (manufactured by Takasago International Corporation), but not limited to these.
  • the sterol is not particularly limited as long as it is a compound having a structure having an OH group at the 3-position of the A ring of the steroid skeleton (cyclopentahydrophenanthrene) as a basic skeleton, and examples thereof include ⁇ -sitosterol, stigmasterol, campesterol, Plant sterols (phytosterols) such as brassicasterol and ergosterol; animal sterols such as cholesterol, cholestanol, lanosterol and dehydrocholesterol; sterols derived from microorganisms such as mycosterol and timosterol.
  • the sterol may be a sterol ester in which any amino acid or fatty acid is bound to the OH group of sterol, such as di(octyldodecyl/phytosteryl/behenyl) lauroylglutamate, cholesteryl oleate, and macadamia nut fatty acid phytosteryl.
  • the sterol may be a naturally occurring compound or a synthetic compound, and may be one that has been subjected to a treatment such as hydrogenation for stabilization, but it is safe for the skin and stably forms a liquid crystal. From this point of view, naturally derived ones are preferable, and phytosterols are more preferable.
  • the linear saturated fatty acid is not particularly limited as long as it is a carboxylic acid having a linear alkyl group, and examples thereof include acetic acid, butyric acid, caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, and stearic acid. , Arachidic acid, behenic acid, lignoceric acid, etc., and a linear saturated fatty acid having 6 to 22 carbon atoms is preferable from the viewpoint of stably forming a liquid crystal.
  • the content of amphipathic lipid, sterol and linear saturated fatty acid is not particularly limited, the content of amphipathic lipid is more than the content of sterol, or linear It is preferably higher than the content of saturated fatty acids; more preferably higher than the content of sterols and higher than the content of straight chain saturated fatty acids; of the sterol content and the content of straight chain saturated fatty acids. More preferably, it is greater than the total amount.
  • the emulsifier obtained by dissolving the composition of one embodiment of the present invention in the solvent should contain the liquid crystal stably. May not be possible.
  • the content of the amphipathic lipid in the composition of one embodiment of the present invention is, for example, 38% by mass to 70% by mass, preferably 40% by mass to 60% by mass, and more preferably about 55% by mass. is there.
  • the amphipathic lipid is lecithin and/or hydrogenated lecithin
  • the PC content of these is low, the amphipathic lipid content is increased, and when the PC content is high, the amphipathic lipid is The lipid content may be reduced.
  • the content of sterols in the composition of one embodiment of the present invention is, for example, 5% by mass to 40% by mass, preferably 10% by mass to 30% by mass, and more preferably about 25% by mass.
  • the content of the linear saturated fatty acid in the composition of one embodiment of the present invention is, for example, 10% by mass to 45% by mass, preferably 10% by mass to 30% by mass, more preferably about 20% by mass. is there.
  • the relationship between the sterol content and the linear saturated fatty acid content is not particularly limited, but in order to form a stable liquid crystal using the composition of one embodiment of the present invention, the sterol content is not directly related to the sterol content. It is preferable that the content of the chain saturated fatty acid is about the same.
  • the content of the amphipathic lipid is preferably more than 10% by mass, and more than 20% by mass with respect to the content of the sterol and/or the content of the linear saturated fatty acid. Is more preferable, and the amount is more preferably more than 30% by mass.
  • the composition of one embodiment of the present invention is an amphipathic lipid, a sterol, and a linear chain, as long as they do not prevent the solution of the problems of the present invention, that is, as long as they have a liquid crystal forming property and do not generate a residue due to a constituent component.
  • other ingredients may be included.
  • the other component include other components that can be contained in the cosmetic of one aspect of the present invention described below.
  • the composition of one aspect of the present invention is used for preparing a cosmetic, it is preferable that the composition be composed of a natural component, and it is more preferable not to contain a surfactant having skin irritation. More preferably, it consists only of amphipathic lipids, sterols and linear saturated fatty acids.
  • composition of one aspect of the present invention can be prepared by stirring and mixing the amphipathic lipid, the sterol and the linear saturated fatty acid, and optionally other components while heating.
  • composition of one embodiment of the present invention is cooled from a heated state to 25° C. or lower, it usually becomes a solid state.
  • the solvent used for obtaining the emulsifier of one embodiment of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is a solvent usually used for preparing cosmetics, and examples thereof include water and polyhydric alcohols (glycerin, BG, PG), alcohol (ethanol etc.), ester oil, silicone oil, hydrocarbon oil (paraffin, hydrogenated polyisobutene, squalene, squalane, etc.), vegetable oil (jojoba oil, macadamia nut seed oil, sesame oil, etc.) and the like.
  • a film obtained by applying a cosmetic obtained using the emulsifier of one embodiment of the present invention to the skin stably forms a liquid crystal structure similar to intercorneocyte lipids, that is, a lamellar liquid crystal structure.
  • polyhydric alcohol or water is preferable.
  • the content of the solvent in the emulsifier of one embodiment of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is sufficiently large relative to the composition of one embodiment of the present invention, and is, for example, 50% by mass to 90% by mass, 60 % To 80% by weight is preferred, 65% to 70% by weight is more preferred, and about 67% by weight is even more preferred.
  • the content of the solvent is less than 50% by mass, the composition of one embodiment of the present invention may not be uniformly swollen and dispersed, and good liquid crystal forming property may not be recognized.
  • the method for preparing the emulsifier of one embodiment of the present invention is not particularly limited, and for example, heating and stirring until the composition of one embodiment of the present invention and the solvent are homogenized to the extent that the contained liquid crystal structure is not lost. Further, by further cooling to room temperature, the liquid crystal component is uniformly dispersed in the solvent, whereby the emulsifier of one embodiment of the present invention can be obtained.
  • the form of the emulsifier of one embodiment of the present invention is not particularly limited, and may vary depending on the lipid composition based on the type and content ratio of the liquid crystal component and the solvent used. For example, a creamy form such as viscous peanut butter or Examples include a fluid paste.
  • the liquid crystal in the emulsifier of one embodiment of the present invention can be confirmed by a method for evaluating the liquid crystal forming property using Polarizing Optical Microscopy (POM) described in Examples below, but the differential scanning is performed. It may be confirmed by a technique known in the art such as calorimetry (Differential Scanning Calorimetry; DSC) and X-ray diffraction (X-Ray Diffraction; XRD).
  • POM Polarizing Optical Microscopy
  • the emulsifier of one embodiment of the present invention is one in which the liquid crystal component in the composition of one embodiment of the present invention is dispersed in a solvent to form a liquid crystal, it can be said that the liquid crystal is a lyotropic liquid crystal.
  • lyotropic liquid crystal and its phase behavior for details of the definition of lyotropic liquid crystal and its phase behavior (stability), refer to documents such as “Cosmetic Science and Technology: Theoretical Principles and Applications” (the entire description of the document is incorporated herein by reference). You can
  • a lyotropic liquid crystal phase refers to an association formed by amphipathic molecules in a solvent system at a certain temperature.
  • Amphiphilic molecules such as surfactants and membrane lipids often consist of polar head groups attached to one or more non-polar chains.
  • polar (hydrophilic) head protects the non-polar (hydrophobic) tail.
  • amphipathic molecules form spherical aggregates known as micelles, which, upon concentration (by solvent evaporation or an increase in their concentration), usually result in a shape, structure or optical difference from the micelles. Form an aggregate with characteristics.
  • a cosmetic containing a liquid crystal is obtained by stirring and mixing the emulsifier of one embodiment of the present invention and the components usually used for preparing cosmetics without applying a high load.
  • the cosmetic of one aspect of the present invention is a liquid crystal-containing cosmetic containing at least the emulsifier of one aspect of the present invention, a film-forming polymer, and water.
  • an oily component as a solvent to prepare a cosmetic with a large amount of oil, a cosmetic capable of forming a film having a hexagonal liquid crystal structure on the skin can be obtained.
  • the cosmetic of one embodiment of the present invention not only stabilizes the liquid crystal but also provides a synergistic moisturizing effect by containing the film-forming polymer. Further, the film formed by applying the cosmetic of one embodiment of the present invention on the surface of the skin imparts the blocking effect.
  • the interaction between the film-forming polymer and the liquid crystal in the cosmetic of one embodiment of the present invention prevents fusion and crystallization of the liquid crystal during the natural evaporation process in film formation, and further increases the amount of water that can be held in the film. Therefore, the water resistance of the film can be improved.
  • liquid crystal as a filler for the polymer film, the adhesion to the skin is improved, and long-term adhesion to the skin and high water occluding property can be realized.
  • the cosmetic of one aspect of the present invention contains a film-forming polymer.
  • the film-forming polymer is not particularly limited as long as it has a function of forming and retaining a film-like film on the skin (a film-forming function) when a cosmetic is applied to the skin, and a naturally-occurring one However, it may be one obtained by synthesis, a mixture thereof, or any of them.
  • the film-forming polymer is preferably a naturally-derived polymer, which is known as a biopolymer. It is more preferable that the
  • the film-forming polymer that is a synthetic product include, for example, silicone-modified polysaccharide (trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan, “TSPL-30-ID” (manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), etc.), silicone rubber and resin ( Trimethylsiloxysilicic acid, "KF-9021", “KF-7312J”, “X-21-5250L”, “X-21-5616” (each manufactured by Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd.), silicone elastomer (polysilicone 11 etc.) ), acrylate copolymer (acrylate/VA copolymer, etc.), poly(meth)acrylic acid ((meth)acrylic acid/alkyl (meth)acrylate (C10-30) crosspolymer, etc.), polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), polyvinylpyrrolidone ( PVP), polyether (highly polymerized polyethylene glycol, etc.), copo
  • the content of the film-forming polymer in the cosmetic of one embodiment of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it can exhibit the film-forming function, but is, for example, 1% by mass to 15% by mass, preferably 2% by mass. % To 10% by mass, and more preferably 3% to 8% by mass.
  • % To 10% by mass, and more preferably 3% to 8% by mass.
  • the biopolymer is preferentially blended in order to improve the stability of the liquid crystal, the self-sustaining property of the film, and the moisture retention property.
  • the liquid crystal film formed on the skin by the cosmetic according to one embodiment of the present invention has a continuous structure by condensing a plurality of lamellar liquid crystal droplets using a naturally-occurring membrane lipid as a component, and forms a stratum corneum. Can resemble the structure or structure found in the intercellular lipids of. From this, the liquid crystal film formed on the skin by the cosmetic of one embodiment of the present invention can exhibit the same moisturizing function and barrier function as intercellular lipids, and further the function of protecting the skin that is acceptable to the cosmetic.
  • a more specific aspect of the cosmetic of one aspect of the present invention is that the amphipathic lipid is 0.5% by mass to 5.0% by mass, the sterol is 0.1% by mass to 2.0% by mass, and straight chain saturated. Contains 0.1% by mass to 2.25% by mass of fatty acid, 2% by mass to 15% by mass of polyhydric alcohol, 2% by mass to 10% by mass of film-forming polymer, and 80% by mass to 90% by mass of water.
  • the oil-in-water type emulsion cosmetic is excellent in the stability of the liquid crystal in the container and/or on the skin, but is not limited thereto.
  • the composite liquid crystal film is an adhesive film that is rich in water and lipid and that contains a plurality of dispersed lamellar liquid crystal droplets.
  • the dispersed liquid crystal droplets are unlikely to cause problems such as liquid crystal phase transition due to mechanical friction, droplet coalescence, and lipid crystallization.
  • the composite liquid crystal film has biocompatibility and air permeability depending on the contained components, and is safe and can be peeled off as a self-supporting sheet without damaging the skin surface.
  • the peeled free-standing sheet can be stored under ambient conditions (temperature: 25°C, relative humidity: 50%) for more than 3 months without decomposing liquid crystal droplets (lamellar lipids) embedded in the peeled sheet. Is.
  • the gloss of the composite liquid crystal film can be controlled by changing the concentration of the lipid component, and the dispersed liquid crystal droplets can suppress the excessive gloss of the polymer film.
  • the composite liquid crystal film is a durable moisturizing film that can be adhered for a long time. As described in Examples below, the composite liquid crystal film keeps the skin in a wet state for 8 hours or more while being stably adhered. obtain.
  • the composite liquid crystal film can also be used as a skin straightener and a concealer for improving deteriorated skin properties.
  • the composite liquid crystal film can be powdered and colored with the powders and pigments commonly used in cosmetics.
  • the composite liquid crystal film has a cosmetically acceptable physical property against airborne dust, ash, particulate matter (PM), debris, microorganisms, pollutants and other harmful environmental factors. It can be used as a mechanical shield.
  • the various functions, actions and effects obtained by the composite liquid crystal film are synergistically obtained by both the liquid crystal component and the film-forming polymer, and are difficult to achieve by the individual components.
  • the thickness of the composite liquid crystal film is not particularly limited, but is, for example, about 100 ⁇ m to 200 ⁇ m. When the water content of the cosmetic of one embodiment of the present invention is 86% by mass, when about 1.0 g of the cosmetic is applied onto the skin of a person having healthy skin, an area of about 8 ⁇ 3 cm 2 is obtained.
  • a film is formed in the area by spreading evenly and then naturally drying under ambient conditions (temperature: 25° C., relative humidity: 50%) for about 10 minutes.
  • the natural membrane lipid contained in the complex liquid crystal film is carried in the lamellar liquid crystal droplets having the same structure as the intercellular lipid.
  • the water content of the composite liquid crystal film is confirmed by DSC measurement, and the water content of the liquid crystal droplets (as binding interlayer water) is confirmed by XRD measurement.
  • the composite liquid crystal film has a higher water content (at least 40% by mass) than the water content of the stratum corneum (about 10 to 20%), and the water content of the liquid crystal droplets is higher than that of the composite liquid crystal film.
  • a water gradient system for supplying water to the skin can be realized.
  • Continuous hydration of the skin area covered by the composite liquid crystal film can be achieved by the water gradient system together with the membrane occluding force, and re-captures the water lost from the skin due to transepidermal water loss and the like. And can be further stored in the composite liquid crystal film.
  • the skin hydration state is well controlled by the complex liquid crystal film, and neither hyperhydration nor dehydration occurs easily. This is due to the water gradient system and water responsiveness of the composite liquid crystal film, allowing a reversible swelling behavior to control the water content of the film without compromising the integrity and performance of the skin surface.
  • desired functions of the dispersed lamellar liquid crystal phase such as cleanliness, optical properties, sustained release of inclusions, or moisturizing properties, can be amplified in a condensed film state. This is due to the presence of many aggregates of lamellar liquid crystal droplets, which are stably embedded in the film, each droplet being provided by an active substance that imparts the desired function. Further, since the composite liquid crystal film contains many aggregates of lamellar liquid crystal droplets, the homogeneity of the film (distribution of the active substance in the solid film) is not a particular problem. Also, because the film is in physical contact with a large surface area of the skin, or the dispersion of liquid crystal droplets can have a larger surface area, the cosmetic or liquid crystal effect can be maximized and delivered equally.
  • the cosmetic of one aspect of the present invention may contain other components.
  • Other components are not particularly limited as long as they do not prevent the solution of the problems of the present invention, and examples thereof include colorants and pigments, fragrances, powders, anti-aging agents, anti-wrinkle agents, anti-skin atrophy agents, cell activating agents, and anti-staining agents.
  • Agents antibacterial agents and preservatives, emollients, moisturizers and texture improvers, surfactants, emulsifiers, oil-soluble conditioning agents, thickening polymers, antioxidants, gelling agents, ingredients that give firmness and elasticity, whitening Agents, anti-inflammatory agents, cooling agents, warming agents, chelating agents, pH adjusting agents, inorganic salts and inorganic substances, UV absorbers and UV scattering agents, sunscreens, wound healing agents, vitamins and vitamin derivatives, peeling agents and polishing agents Agents, absorbents, antibiotics, anticoagulants, biological additives, bleach activators, chemical additives, cleansers, deodorants, enzymes, opacifiers, oxidants, buffers, plasticizers, radical scavengers, Skin penetration enhancer, stabilizer, cosmetic ingredient, plant extract, antiperspirant, insect repellent, anti-acne agent, disinfectant, skin sedative, skin barrier repair aid, skin repair agent, lipid, sebum suppressant , Antipru
  • the cosmetic of one embodiment of the present invention can provide moisturizing properties and occlusive properties by itself, but by containing an active ingredient, it can impart an additional function to the skin to which it is applied.
  • the additional functions are not particularly limited, but include, for example, hydration of the skin, smoothing of fine lines and wrinkles, cosmetic treatment of acne, skin tightening (firming), softening of the skin, active substances to the skin, etc.
  • the composite liquid crystal film formed on the skin by the cosmetic according to one aspect of the present invention can be used for hydrating the skin, protecting the skin from environmental damage, and cosmetically improving the physical appearance. ..
  • the site to which the cosmetic material according to one embodiment of the present invention is applied is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include face (forehead, eye area, eyes, cheek, mouth area, etc.), arm, elbow, back of hand, fingertip, foot, knee, heel, neck, Armpits, back, scalp, hair, etc.
  • the use form and dosage form of the cosmetic of one aspect of the present invention are not particularly limited, and examples thereof include skin care cosmetics, makeup cosmetics, fragrance cosmetics, body care cosmetics, and the like, and more specifically creams and emulsions.
  • Foundation lotion, beauty essence, all-in-one gel, sunscreen gel, lotion, pack, mask, point mask, patch, face wash, hand cream, makeup cleansing, makeup base, concealer, blusher, eye shadow, eyeliner
  • Examples include eyebrow, lipstick, sunscreen cream, hair removal and hair removal cream.
  • the cosmetic material according to one embodiment of the present invention can be used as a raw material (intermediate raw material) when manufacturing another cosmetic material.
  • the method for preparing the cosmetic of one embodiment of the present invention is not particularly limited, and for example, heating is performed to such an extent that the contained liquid crystal structure is not lost, the emulsifier of one embodiment of the present invention, the film-forming polymer, and water, and The liquid crystal component is dispersed uniformly by optionally mixing other components with stirring or the like to obtain the cosmetic material of one embodiment of the present invention.
  • the cosmetic of one aspect of the present invention forms a liquid crystal film when applied to the skin, which makes it possible to prevent water evaporation from the skin surface, improve dry skin, or worsen by further drying. Can be suppressed.
  • the cosmetic of one aspect of the present invention is topically applied to the skin, thereby comprising at least a step of forming a liquid crystal film, preferably a liquid crystal film having a lamella liquid crystal structure, the skin A method of forming a liquid crystal film above is provided.
  • SAXS small angle X-ray scattering
  • WAXS wide angle X-ray scattering
  • 2 ⁇ and ⁇ represent the scattering angle and wavelength of the X-ray beam, respectively.
  • Liquid crystal formation was observed in all of the emulsifiers and cosmetics of Examples 1 to 12.
  • the cosmetics of Examples 1 to 12 are liquid crystal films on the skin even after 8 hours from application, without the liquid crystal being destroyed by mechanical load, moisture evaporation, contact with sweat or sebum, etc. Maintained its shape.
  • formation of liquid crystals was observed even after storage for 1 month, and the stability of the liquid crystals was excellent.
  • the liquid crystal films formed by applying the cosmetics of Example 1, Example 2, Example 6 and Example 11 to the skin had a lamellar phase.
  • FIGS. 1 and 2 the results of a test sample observed by a polarization microscope and X-ray scattering analysis are shown in FIGS. 1 and 2. That is, regarding the cosmetic of Example 1, an observation photograph of a polarization microscope relating to the liquid crystal forming property in a creamy cosmetic containing a large amount of water before skin application is shown in FIG. 1A, and small angle X-ray scattering related to the liquid crystal structure is shown. The results of the analysis and the wide-angle X-ray scattering analysis are shown in FIGS. 2A1 and 2A2, respectively. Similarly, FIG.
  • Example 1 More specifically, the presence of a stable liquid crystal phase as dispersed micro liquid crystal droplets (LC Microdroplets: about 30 ⁇ m) in the cosmetic material of Example 1 was confirmed as maltase cross from the results of the polarization microscopes of FIGS. 1A and 1B. did it. In particular, it can be seen that since many fine liquid crystal droplets are stably immobilized in the polymer film in a high concentration state in the film after water evaporation, the moisturizing and occluding functions can be efficiently exhibited.
  • LC Microdroplets about 30 ⁇ m
  • the cosmetic When the cosmetic is in the form of a cream, it is a liquid crystal having a columnar structure, so that it firmly holds water and stabilizes the formulation in the container.
  • the cosmetic material when it is in the form of a film, since it is a lamellar liquid crystal, water can be captured and discharged, so that it can be expected to give water to the skin through the film.
  • the formed film contained a large number of stable lamellar liquid crystal droplets, and the layer spacing of this lamellar liquid crystal phase was about 7 to 8 nm. This is similar to the interlamellar spacing (6 nm) of short-period lamellae in the intercellular lipids of the stratum corneum.
  • the lamellar liquid crystal phase having such a layer interval is useful for storage and re-capture of moisture from the surroundings, and is expected to maintain wettability, flexibility and elasticity as a film texture.
  • FIG. 3 shows observation photographs of a liquid crystal forming property of the emulsifiers of Examples 13 to 14 and Comparative Example 6 with a polarization microscope. As shown in FIG. 3, liquid crystal formation was observed with the emulsifiers of Examples 13 to 14. On the other hand, the emulsifier of Comparative Example 6 had many phytosterol residues.
  • the emulsifiers and cosmetics of Examples 1 to 14 were capable of forming liquid crystals during preparation.
  • the cosmetics of Examples 1 to 12 were excellent in liquid crystal stability, and were capable of forming a lamellar phase liquid crystal film by applying them on the skin.
  • the results of comparing the cosmetics of Example 1 and the cosmetics of Comparative Example 1 are shown in FIG.
  • the cosmetic of Example 1 had improved water resistance and water retention due to the presence of liquid crystals in the polymer film, and thus the amount of purified water evaporated. The number was low and the obstruction was high.
  • the results of comparing the cosmetics of Example 1 and the cosmetics of Comparative Example 1 are shown in FIG.
  • FIG. 6 when the film formed of the cosmetic of Example 1 and the film of Comparative Example 1 was adhered to the skin for a long time, it was observed that the cosmetic of Comparative Example 1 was peeling off.
  • the cosmetic of Example 1 had high adhesiveness to the skin, and it was observed that the cosmetic adhered even after 8 hours.
  • the liquid crystal droplets in the polymer film not only function as a moisturizing and blocking agent, but also as a filler, the presence of liquid crystal droplets improves resistance to sweat and sebum, and enables long-term adhesion. It is speculated that It was also possible to adhere a makeup powder such as powder foundation or lipstick onto the film.
  • Example 1 According to the formulation of Example 1 and the procedure of (1-1) above, except that the water-soluble polymer shown in Table 6 was used as the water-soluble polymer and the concentration range of the water-soluble polymer was 2 to 10 wt %. Cosmetics were prepared and liquid crystal forming properties were evaluated. As a result, all the cosmetics could be evaluated as those having a liquid crystal forming property (“ ⁇ ”). When the obtained cosmetic was applied on the skin, formation of a film could be confirmed. The film formed contained many stable lamellar liquid crystal droplets.
  • the combination of the film-forming polymer and the lamellar liquid crystal droplets has a structure similar to that of the intercellular lipid that has the barrier function of the stratum corneum, it can be expected to perform the same function as that of the stratum corneum.
  • composition and the emulsifier of one embodiment of the present invention can be used for preparing a cosmetic that stably holds a liquid crystal structure in a liquid state in a container and in a film form on the skin.
  • the cosmetic of one embodiment of the present invention can be applied to the surface of the skin to form a composite film having a lamellar liquid crystal structure, and thus can be used as a cosmetic such as a cream, an emulsion or a pack. is there.
  • the cosmetic according to one aspect of the present invention the user can comfortably reduce or prevent the dryness of the skin on a daily basis, improve the condition of the skin, and further protect the skin. ..

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Abstract

La présente invention vise à fournir une composition qui peut être utilisée pour préparer un produit cosmétique dont les résidus de composants constitutifs ne peuvent pas être observés lorsqu'ils sont dispersés dans un solvant, qui peut contenir des cristaux liquides dans un état dans lequel les composants constitutifs sont fondus uniformément, et qui, lorsqu'ils sont contenus conjointement à divers types de polymères filmogènes, maintient stablement la structure de cristaux liquides à l'état liquide dans un récipient et sous la forme d'un film sur la peau. L'invention vise également à fournir un émulsifiant et un produit cosmétique qui utilisent ladite composition. L'invention concerne par conséquent une composition pour former des cristaux liquides qui contient des lipides amphiphiles, du stérol et des acides gras saturés à chaîne linéaire ; un émulsifiant contenant des cristaux liquides qui contient ladite composition et un solvant ; et un produit cosmétique contenant des cristaux liquides qui contient ledit émulsifiant, un polymère filmogène et de l'eau.
PCT/JP2019/050781 2018-12-28 2019-12-25 Composition pour former un cristal liquide, émulsifiant contenant un cristal liquide, et produit cosmétique contenant un cristal liquide qui est crémeux ou similaire à un film WO2020138150A1 (fr)

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